eae Pay p $s Se iE es ati SIEVE Sa INCIDENTS OF A TRIP GRHAT PLATTE VALLEY, TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND LARAMIH PLAINS, IN THE FALL OF 1866, WITH A SYNOPTICAL STATEMENT OF THE VARIOUS PACIFIC RAILROADS, AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE GREAT UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD EXCURSION TO THE ONE HUNDREDTH MERIDIAN OF LONGITUDE. New Dork: D. VAN NOSTRAND, No. 192 BROADWAY. 1867. BANBDA \ALAe Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, By D. VAN NOSTRAND. In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. my" TO MAJOR-GENERAL JOHN A, DIX, President of the Union Pacific Railroad Company ; American Minister to the Court of France, etc. GENERAL: The following narrative of personal inci- dents, connected with a professional visit to the Rocky Mountains, and Laramie Plains, during the months of September, October and November of the past year, in company with Hon. Jesse L. Williams, Government Director, and Gen. G. M. Dodge, Chief Engineer of the Union Pacific Railroad, was originally written for, and all but the last three numbers, published in the “ New York Times.” Your appointment by the President of the United States, as Foreign Minister, made it necessary for you to leave the country before the numbers were all published ; and also prevented you, much to the disappointment of yourself as well as of your associates in the management of the road, from participating in the great celebration of the completion of the Union Pacific Railroad to the one hundredth meridian of longitude, which is imper- fectly described in the last numbers. I have, therefore, taken the liberty of collecting, revising, and dedicating them to you, in their present A TO MAJOR-GENERAL JOHN A. DIX. form, hoping that their perusal may afford you some pleasure in your moments of relaxation from the cares and responsibilities connected with your high official position. I have the honor to be, General, Your obedient servant, SILAS SEYMOUR. New Yorn, Feb. 1, 1867. CONTENTS. I—New York to Pittsburgh—Chicago—Omaha—Fort Kearny and Denver—Progress of the Union Pacific Railroad—Visit of Govern- ment Directors. II.—Denver City to Golden City—Idaho—Empire City and Berthoud Pass—Valley of Clear Creek—Mining Operations—Scenery of the Rocky Mountains—Mr. Williams’ Letter from Berthoud Pass. Iil.—-Snow Storm in the Rocky Mountains--Empire City to Idaho— Central, Golden, and Denver Cities—Virginia Caiion—Russell Gulch—Quariz Mills at Black-Hawk-—Junction Ranch—Guy’s Hill —Clear Creek Cafion—Entrance into Denver. IV.—Colorado Agricultural Fair—Denver to Laporte—Virginia Dale— Stone-wall Cafion—Steamboat Butte--Antelope Pass, and Laramie Plains—Arrival at Fort John Buford. V.—A Day at Fort John Buford—Mr. Williams’ Letter—Eastward Bound—Death of the Elk-Stag—Crossing the Black Hills at Eavan’s Pass—Descent towards the Plains--Lone Rock—Camp on Dale Creek—A Herd of Elk—Camps on Lone-Tree and Box- Elder Creeks—Death of the Antelope—Return to Laporte. Vi.—Parting Supper at Laporte—Return Trip to Denver—Kearny and Omaha—Ben Holladay and his Friends—Tribute to T. C. Durant— Remarkable Progress of the Union Pacific Railroad—Arrival at Omaha—Troubles at the Hernden House. VII.—Two Weeks at Omaha—Wild Geese and Duck Shooting—Advent of Chicago and Northwestern Agents on their way to Denver— Parting Speech of Mr. Tappen—Anticipated Arrival of the great 6 CONTENTS. Pacific Railroad Excursion—Antecedents and Objects of the Excur- sion—Synopsis of Pacific Railroads—Speech of General Simpson— Departure of Excursion from New York—Arrival at Chicago—Saint Joseph, and Omaha—Reception and Ball at Omaha. VIII.—Morning after the Ball—The Excursion Train—All on Board— Its Progress Westward—The Great Platte Valley—Stations on the Road—aAzrrival at Columbus—Camping Out on the Plains—Indian War Dance—Morning Serenade—Town of Columbus—Sham Indian Fight— Presents to the Indians—Contrast between Civilized and Savage Life—Train still Going Westward—Way Stations on the Road—Arrival at Camp No. Two—Military Encampment—Another Night in Camp—Morning Exercises—Departure of the Elkhorns— List of Excursionists—End of Track found at last—Buffalo and Antelope Hunters—Dinner in Camp—Fireworks on the Plains— Third Night in Camp—Homeward Bound—One-Hundredth Meridian —Prairie-Dog City—Fire on the Prairies—Return to Omaha— Departure of Excursionists Hastward—Their Safe Arrival Home. TX.—Public Reception at Chicago—Resolutions—Speeches of Mayor Rice—Mr. C, A. Lambard, and Senator B. F. Wade—General J. H, Simpson’s Letter from North Platte Station--Death of General Curtiss—Conclusion. WESTERN INCIDENTS. I. NEW YORK TO PITTSBURGH, CHICAGO, OMAHA, FORT KEARNY, AND DEN- VER—PROGRESS OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD—VISIT OF GOV- ERNMENT DIRECTORS, ETC., ETC. Denver Crry, Conorapo, Monday, Sept. 17, 1866. It is now about two weeks since I left New York, in company with the Government Directors of the Union Pacific Railroad, for the purpose of inspecting the rapid construction of that greatest of modern enterprises; and also examining the different routes which have been pro- posed for the road through the passes of the Rocky Mountains ; and it seems to me that during that time I have learned more of the vast extent and resources of our continent than I had ever known before. Leaving New York on the evening of the 4th Septem- ber, by the New Jersey, and Pennsylvania Central Rail- roads, we arrived at Pittsburgh on the 5th for dinner, -after which we were placed in the Government Presiden- tial car, which conveyed us most comfortably to Chicago in time to witness the interesting ceremonies of laying the corner-stone of the Douglas monument, pay our respects to the Presidential party, and hear the elo- quent address of General Dix. . On Friday evening, the 7th, we continued our journey from Chicago westward over the Iowa division of the 8 WESTERN INCIDENTS. Chicago and Northwestern Railroad, in the magnificent Directors’ car, which was kindly placed at the disposal of the Government Directors by Mr. Dunlap, the Gen- eral Superintendent, and which conveyed us to the end of the track, a distance of about four hundred miles west of Chicago. From this point we were compelled to make the balance of the distance to Omaha, about ninety miles, by stage. The rails are to be laid, however, upon this portion of the route by the 1st of April next. We arrived at Omaha, the eastern terminus of the Union Pacific Railroad, on the morning of the 10th, and spent the day in examining the extensive shops of the Company, which have all been constructed within the past year. DEPARTURE FROM OMAHA. On the morning of the 11th, the Directors accom- panied by Gen. G. M. Dodge, Chief Engineer, Major Bent, Major Chesbrough and myself, took a special train, in charge of Mr. S. B. Reed, the General Super- intendent, for the end of the track, which was then laid two hundred and seventeen miles westward, in the Great Platte Valley. We arrived opposite Fort Kearny at four P. M., having passed over two hundred miles of road in eight hours, or at the rate of twenty-five miles an hour. _ dt may not be improper to state in this connection, that only forty miles of track were laid on this road dur- ing the latter part of 1865. And the balance, or about one hundred and eighty miles, has been laid during the present season ; and the track-laying is now progressing so rapidly that it will reach the crossing of the North Platte river, a distance of two hundred and eighty-five miles from Omaha, by the Ist of November. _ The law requires the President of the United States to WESTERN INCIDENTS. 9 appoint five Directors to represent the Government in the management of the road. And it also requires these Directors to visit the road as often as they think proper, and make a report upon its condition, management, and progress, to the Secretary of the Ifiterior. The following are the names of these Directors—Hon. George Ashmun, of Mass.; Hon. Jesse L. Williams, of Ind.; Hon. T. J. Carter, of Ill.; Hon. Springer Har- baugh, of Penn. ; and Hon. Charles T. Sherman, of Ohio. Mr. Ashmun did not accompany the party. Our party separated at Kearny Station, and three of the Government Directors, Messrs. Harbaugh, Carter, and Sherman, remained on the north side of the Platte for the purpose of inspecting the balance of the com- pleted portion of the road, and then returning eastward. While the other Government Director, Hon. Jesse L. Williams, who is also an engineer of great experience, together with Gen. G. M. Dodge, Major Chesbrough and myself, crossed over to the stage station, near Fort Kearny, for the purpose of continuing our journey by stage to the Rocky Mountains. FROM FORT KEARNY TO DENVER CITY. We left Fort Kearny at one Pp. M., on Wednesday, the 12th inst., and arrived at Denver at ten A. M., on the fol- lowing Saturday, making the entire distance of four hun- dred miles in less than three days and nights. The speed, comfort, and regularity of these Ben Holladay Overland stages is certainly astonishing, when we con- sider the fact that they pass through hundreds and thou- sands of miles of almost uninhabited country ; and that it is only five years since the experiment was first attempted. Our party was exceedingly fortunate in falling in company 1* 10 WESTERN INCIDENTS. with Gen. Hughes, the attorney of the Stage Company, who, with his daughter, accompanied us from Omaha to Denver. FIRST VIEW OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. Our first view of the Rocky Mountains was from a point on the Plains about one hundred miles distant, and about an hour before sunset on Friday evening, the 14th inst. A heavy cloud had been lying along the west- ern horizon during the whole afternoon, and it was feared that we should not obtain the long coveted view before the following morning ; but, fortunately, the sun broke through and dispelled the lower belt of clouds just in time to give'us a magnificent view of the entire range, and en- able us to see the setting of the sun behind Luong’ s Peak, the highest in the range. . DENVER CITY. The appearance of Denver, as you approach it from the east, is not very imposing. The town is situated in the valley of the South Platte, at the mouth of Cherry Creek, about twelve miles in a direct line from the base of the mountains. And the swell, or elevation of the plain to the eastward, hides it from view until you ap- proach within about three miles of the town. It then bursts upon the view as if by magic; and presents a most comfortable and inviting appearance to the weary traveller from the Plains, who has seen nothing but log and adobe ranches, at intervals of ten and twenty miles, for many long and weary days and nights. Denver boasts of four or five thousand inhabitants. The streets are regularly laid out; and there are many fine brick blocks, either constructed or in course of con- WESTERN INCIDENTS. Lt _ struction. You can purchase almost anything here that can be purchased in New York, but at prices from fifty to one hundred per cent. higher. The hotels are very ordinary. Nothing would improve the town more than -the construction of two or three first-class hotels. We are about to start on our trip through the moun- tains by way of Golden City, Idaho, and Empire City, to Berthoud’s Pass. General Dodge and Major Chesbrough will go from here directly to Laporte, where Mr. Williams and myself are to join them after our return from the mountains. 17. WESTERN INCIDENTS. II. DENVER CITY TO GOLDEN CITY—-IDAHO—-EMPIRE CIrY, AND BERTHOUD PASS——-VALLEY OF CLEAR CREEK-——-MINING OPERATIONS—SCEN- ERY OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. Emprrn Crry, Cororano, September 19, 1866. Hon. Jesse L. Williams, one of the Government Direc- tors of the Union Pacific Railroad, and myself, accom- panied on horseback by Mr. P. T. Brown, the Assistant Engineer, who had been making the surveys for the road. through this wild and forbidding portion of the route, started out from Denver on the morning of the 17th, in a comfortable covered carriage, drawn by a pair of lazy, broken down mules, these being considered the most safe and reliable for the rough mountain roads we were to traverse. The outfit, as all conveyances are designated in this country, was under the special charge of Mr. Brooks, a most venerable and experienced moun- taineer and driver. Our objective point was Berthoud Pass, and our route lay up the Valley of Clear Creek, or as near it as the road would allow us to travel. From Denver, the base of the mountains appears so near as to invite a short morning walk to them before breakfast; but we only reached them after a long two hours’ ride of twelve miles, behind our “safe and reli- able” mules, over the intervening plains. We entered the somewhat broken and irregular base of the first range, or Table Mountain, as it is called, through the opening made by the Valley of Clear Creek, instead of by WESTERN INCIDENTS. 13 the regularly travelled road some miles further south ; and made our first halt at Golden City, fourteen miles from Denver. This place is most beautiful for situation ; and should have been the great commercial city for the mining interests of this portion of Colorado. But Den- ver, during the Cherry Creek excitement years ago, obtained a long distance the start of it, and will, from present appearances, retain the advantage. Here we found iron-ore, coal and fire-clay in abundance, all which will, sooner or later, be turned to good account. GETTING INTO THE MOUNTAINS. It being impossible to follow further up the Valley of Clear Creek,.on account of the intervening caiion extend- ing some twelve or fifteen miles in our proper direction, we were obliged to make a detour to the south, and enter the next range through a less formidable gorge, up which avery good road had been made in the direction of Idaho and Empire Cities. We stopped an hour for a very good dinner at the Genessee Ranch, where we were overtaken by our very intelligent and eccentric friend Wolfe, whose acquaintance we had made at Denver, and who was wending his way to his mines in the mountains with a load of enormous cabbages, turnips, water, musk and other melons, the products of his large and well-cultiva- ted Ranch on Clear Creek, near Denver. After regaling us for dessert with one of his finest melons, Mr. Wolfe opened to us his plans of a new process for separating the precious metals from the quartz; and also his theory for the extinction of cholera; all which, it is needless to say, met with our unqualified approbation. 14 WESTERN INCIDENTS. CLEAR CREEK VALLEY. Our road towards Idaho now lay over a very rough, precipitous country, to a point a few miles below that city, where we again struck the Valley of Clear Creek. As we followed along the abrupt windings of this valley, we were continually reminded of the insatiate thirst of man for the filthy lucre gold, by the broken and decay- ing flumes and water wheels, and the crumbling and half-refilled excavations in the banks along the stream, which had been made and used by the earlier pioneers in their search for hidden treasure. Some two miles below Idaho we passed the extensive and more permanent works, now being erected for the same purpose, by Gen. Beaufort for an Eastern company of capitalists. At early dusk we found ourselves in front of the Beebe House, in Idaho, acknowledged to be the best hotel in Colorado, with good mountain appetites for an excellent supper which awaited us. Our venerable driver, and part owner of our outfit, was almost exhausted by his continuous wallopings of the mules; and our mules (or rather horses by brevet, since the close of the war), were hors de com- bat from the effects of a long drive over rough roads, and the aforesaid wallopings of the venerable driver. On en- tering the hotel I was most agreeably surprised to find that it was owned and kept by old and familiar friends from Sullivan county, New York; which fact rendered our short stay exceedingly pleasant. The hot springs, ample bathing, and hotel accommodations, render this place the Saratoga of the mountains for the good people of Denver and adjacent cities. WESTERN INCIDENTS. — 15 ARRIVAL AT EMPIRE CITY. An early breakfast enabled us to reach Empire City, eleven miles further up the valley, at eleven o’clock in the morning. At no point along our road were we out of view of the gulch and mountain mining operations, being carried on by the sturdy and adventurous moun- taineers. Mr. Brown had informed us that we could not travel with our carriage nearer than a point about two miles from the pass; and that it would therefore be neces- sary for Mr. Williams and myself to procure saddle- horses at Empire for the balance of our journey. This, together with our hasty lunch, detained us about an hour at Empire City. In the meantime we were informed by gentlemen at Empire, that we could not make the ascent to the pass and return during the afternoon, and had, therefore, better defer the trip till morning. Mr. Wil- liams, however, was too anxious to take a glimpse of the Pacific slope of the continent, and had come too far for that purpose, to be deterred by any such prognostications ; and we therefore set out at twelve on horseback, after arranging with our driver to meet us at five o’clock with the carriage, at the foot of the trail. Our road, still following the Valley of Clear Creek, was quite good for six miles of the distance, to the foot of the trail which leads from the wagon road up the southerly slope of the valley of a small tributary of Clear Creek, which heads near Berthoud Pass. We made our way slowly up the trail without much difficulty, although in many places the path was quite steep and sideling, reminding one of the ascent as made years ago from the Glen House to Mount Washington. We dismounted several times to relieve our horses and 16 - WESTERN INCIDENTS. perhaps for greater safety. When near the top we started up a bevy of mountain grouse, one of which had the audacity to sit out the discharge of our revolvers, upon a limb within twenty feet of us, without evincing ereater emotion than an occasional wink of the left eye ; but after our pistols were unloaded, Mr. Brown fired a stone at the bird, which struck a tree near by, and caused it to beat a hasty retreat. I had unfortunately left my rifle and fowling-piece in the carriage. BERTHOUD PASS. We reached Berthoud Pass at two P. mM. on Tuesday, _ September 18; and were, for the first time in our lives, greeted with a most extended and magnificent view of the Pacific slope of the Western Continent. The sum- - mit of the Pass is but a few hundred feet below the tim- ber, or arborescent line; and is about 6,100 feet above Denver City, and 11,200 feet above the level of the sea. The main range, or divide of the continent, was visible to the north and west for a distance of 100 miles at least, far beyond Long’s Peak, which reared its bald head, spotted with eternal snow, high above the average level of the range. After spending an hour upon the Pass, and taking such note of the topography as would refresh our memories hereafter, we ascended the point of mountain south of the Pass to an elevation several hundred feet above the tree line, from which the view of Middle Park, the valley of a tributary of Grand River, leading west- ward from the Pass; and the extended westerly slopes of the Rocky Mountain ranges, formed a most enchanting picture. The exhilarating effects of the high mountain air and sublime scenery, inspired Mr. Williams with a desire for a patriotic song. After some urging from Mr. WESTERN INCIDENTS. 17 Brown and myself, he led off with “ Sherman’s March to the Sea.” Mr. Brown followed with the “ Star Spangled Banner,” and I closed the exercises with Moore’s seren- ade “Come o’er the Sea,” etc., after the style of Major Scholefield, of the “ North Woods Walton Club.” The entire range, from Long’s to Pike’s Peak, seemed to catch the inspiration, and join in the chorus. After concluding that no improvised glee club had ever performed before a more select and appreciative audi- ence; and after refreshing ourselves, and cooling our over-taxed throats with some coarsely granulated snow; at least a century old, which lay at our feet, we com- menced the descent at four in the afternoon. By permission of Mr. Williams, I take pleasure in an- nexing the following letter written by him from the sum- mit of Berthoud Pass :-— Bertooup Pass, Rocky Movnrarns, September 18, 1866. t Evlitor Fort Wayne Gazette :— Having reached the summit of this grand mountain range, in com- pany with Col. Seymour, the Consulting Engineer of the Union Pacific Railroad, and Mr. Brown, Assistant Engineer, my first impulse is to write to my friends at home. One of the experimental surveys for the Union Pacific Railroad fol- lows Clear Creek to this Pass. That valley was therefore our route from Denver, fifty miles east, bringing us through a rich gold mining district. Hight miles back we took saddle-horses, rising by a mule trail sixteen hundred feet in the last one and a half miles. The point on which I write is some six hundred feet above the Pass, about six thousand seven hundred feet above Denver, and about twelve thou- sand feet above the sea. It appears to be some two or three hundred feet above the line of arborescence, or “ tree line,” above which no timber or vegetation grows. Patches of last winter’s snow are lying around us on northern slopes, and some of them two hundred feet below. The proposed railroad tunnel pierces the mountain far be- 18 WESTERN INCIDENTS. neath us. From the summit the waters flow to the Pacific through the Colorado of the West, and to the Atlantic through the Platte. Peaks, five hundred, and one thousand feet higher than this, are near us, while Long’s Peak, supposed to be nearly fifteen thousand feet above the sea, is in full view forty miles to the northeast. During the next two weeks, Col. Seymour and myself expect, in company with Gen. Dodge, the Chief Engineer, to look over the routes surveyed across the Black Hill range, one hundred miles north of this place. The Union Pacific Railroad is under rapid progress. In November next the locomotive is expected to cross the bridge over the North Platte, two hundred and eighty-five miles from Omaha. The opening of this work across the plains, will soon make the people of the States more familiar with this Rocky Mountain range and its grand scenery ; and, what is more important, will afford ready access to a new field of enterprise in the work of developing its vast mineral wealth. J. L. WILLIAMS. We found our venerable driver at the foot of the trail, as per arrangement ; but in order to insure his return to Empire the same night, he had taken the precaution to exchange his mules temporarily, with the Empire land- lord, for a pair of good horses. Mr. Brown and myself kept our saddles till we reached Empire City, at six p.m.; but Mr. Williams, participating to some extent in the peculiar characteristics of a locomo- tive, from his long ride wpon the back of old “ Knock- um-Stiff,” as he facetiously styled his horse, concluded to take his accustomed seat in the carriage. On our way down to Empire City, a conspiracy was organized by our venerable driver to make a permanent exchange of his mules with the Empire landlord for his horses, but I am sorry to say that the scheme was not successful. The name of Bayard Taylor, that greatest of deserip- tive travellers, who had preceded us but a few months over Berthoud Pass, was still fresh in the recollection of the mountain residents who had been favored with his acquaintance. — WESTERN INCIDENTS. 19 IIf. SNOW-STORM IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS—-EMPIRE CITY TO IDAHO, CEN- TRAL, GOLDEN AND DENVER CITIES—VIRGINIA CANON—RUSSELL GULCH—QUARTZ MILLS AT BLACK-HAWK—JUNCTION RANCH—GUY’S HILL—-CLEAR CREEK CANON—-ENTRANCE INTO DENVER, ETC., ETC. Denver Crry, Cotorapo, Thursday, Sept. 20, 1866. On the morning of September 19th, we awakened at Empire City to find that we were in the midst of a Rocky Mountain snow-storm. The weather for several days previous had been delightful—even on the day before, during our visit to Berthoud Pass, not a cloud had bedimmed the sky until after sunset, when thin, hazy clouds began to settle below the mountain tops around us, all which, we were told, foreboded a storm. As our venerable driver had not succeeded in his attempt to impose his old mules upon our worthy host of the Empire House, in exchange for a pair of horses, we were compelled to address ourselves to our return jour- ney behind these much-abused animals ; and he to resume his powerful persuasives of the previous two days. The snow had not accumulated to any great extent upon the roads ; but it was falling fast, and prudence enjoined us to be early on our way. Our hitherto guide, and most intelligent and agreeable travelling companion, Mr. Brown, remained at Empire, for the purpose, when the storm abated, of rejoming his surveying party in the neighborhood of Boulder Pass. 20 WESTERN INCIDENTS. RETURN FROM EMPIRE. Starting out at eight, we reached Idaho at ten in the morning, and stopped a few minutes to say some parting words to our friends of the Beebe House. We then commenced the ascent of the Virginia Cajfion, and the descent of Russell Gulch, a distance of seven miles to Central City, which we reached at twelve. I should not omit to mention, that in driving from Idaho to Empire the previous morning, we had met Messrs. Gukin and Ford, artists from Chicago, who were engaged in taking some mountain views; and were on their return from the Parks, where they had been spending the summer months. At their invitation we had promised to call at their camp as we returned, and look over their pictures; but the morning was so stormy, and their quarters looked so uninviting, that we con- tented ourselves with a passing salute, and a promise to visit their studios in Chicago on some future occasion. . The place where we met these gentlemen is but a few miles from the Chicago Lakes, the scene of Bier- stadt’s great painting of the “Storm in the Rocky Mountains.” The snow had fallen to a depth of from six to eight inches on our arrival at Central City ; and we were fully conscious of having lost, by reason of the thick-falling snow, as we passed down Russell Gulch to Central City, many fine views, as well as a passing inspection of some of the finest and most extensive quartz mining and crush- ing operations now being carried on in this part.of the Territory. The result, however, was unavoidable, and we were obliged to content ourselves with such information as our venerable driver could give us, he being familiar with the country, and part owner of some of WESTERN INCIDENTS. 21 the mines around us, as well as of the outfit in which we were travelling. CENTRAL CITY. Central City seems to be situated at the confluence of several gulches, which, united, form the north branch of Clear Creek ; and the streets are made to follow the wind- ings of the beds of the streams. The houses are gen- erally built upon benches cut in the side hill for the dif- ferent stories, with basements upon the streets; so that, in order to reach the cellar or back-yard, you are frequently compelled to ascend one or two pairs of stairs from the office or dining-room of your hotel. I mention this fact, not so much the result of my own observation, as from information derived from my esteemed friend and travellmg companion, Mr. Wil- liams, who spent at least a half hour in an investi- gation of the subject, immediately upon our arrival at the hotel. Central City boasts of several thousand inhab- itants, or, at least, as many as Denver. We noticed several fine blocks of brick and granite buildings, two or three large banking houses, and also the “ Big Barn,” situated directly in the centre of the city, and which seems to be the general corral for all the town and sur- rounding country. After partaking of a very good dinner, and giving such attention to our surroundings as the gloomy state of the weather would permit, we held a consultation as to our future movements. It had been our intention, on leav- ing Denver, to spend the present afternoon and night here, which would give us an opportunity to examine many of the mines, as well as quartz mills in the vicinity. Mr. Chaffee, Senator-elect from this forthcoming State, ‘whom we had met in Denver, had very kindly promised 22, WESTERN INCIDENTS. to meet us here and show us about ; but the violent storm had evidently prevented his coming. It had also been our desire and intention to spend the one or two following days m an examination of the Boul- der Valley and Pass, under the guidance of Mr. Rawlins, whose works are situated on the Boulder ; and whom we had met in Denver; but he was nowhere to be found. The storm was still raging and the weather growing colder. Icicles a foot in length were hanging from the eaves of the houses. Our venerable driver and more venerable mules also became objects of our deepest solicitude—the driver claiming that the oulfit was unfit to go further this stormy day ; but if we would let him and the mules vest till to-morrow morning, he would then drive us to Denver (forty miles), or perish in the attempt. We finally concluded that, as the main object of our journey had been accomplished ; and as the state of the weather rendered a further examination of mountain passes and scenery exceedingly unpropitious at the pres- ent time, we would turn our faces toward Denver, with a view of reaching there on the following night. To insure this result, it appeared important that we should accom- plish a portion of the distance during the present after- noon. We therefore set out again in the storm at four Pp. M., with the intention of reaching the Junction Ranch, nine miles distant, before nightfall. BLACK-HAWK AND LYONS MILLS. On our way down the valley of North Clear Creek, we passed through the town of Black-Hawk, about two miles below Central City, where we stopped an hour to examine two of the largest quartz mills now in operation in this valley. One, the Black-Hawk mill, which adheres to the WESTERN INCIDENTS. 23 old method of stamping and washing the ores from the quartz ; and the other, the Lyons mill, in which the new process of decomposing the quartz and separating the ores by the action of heat, is being carried on. This matter of separating the precious metals from the quartz, is one of vast importance to the mining interests of Colorado ; and he who shall first succeed in economi- cally and successfully accomplishing the object, will be entitled to the lasting gratitude of “ all the world and the rest of mankind.” ‘The exact and proper process seems yet to be hidden in the womb of the future ; and many an alchemist is now racking his brain, and experimenting in his crucible over his midnight lamp, in the hope of first discovering this great secret in chemical science, which the Almighty has, for some great and wise purpose, thus far withheld from us. JUNCTION, OR BOUTWELL’S RANCH. Our journey up the long hill of four or five miles, — between the valley of Clear Creek and Junction, was most tedious and uncomfortable. Like most other ob- stacles in this world, however, it was finally surmounted ; and on descending one or two miles beyond the summit, we found ourselves in front of a most excellent and hos- pitable Ranch, kept by Mr. Boutwell, with a huge fire blazing from a large, old-fashioned fire-place, inviting us to comfort and repose. A hearty supper, good night’s rest, and early breakfast, enabled us on the following morning to resume our jour- ney with every prospect of reaching Denver before night. The storm had passed over, and the weather was clear and cold—snow one foot deep, ice one inch thick, and the thermometer sixteen degrees above zero. Our venerable 24. WESTERN INCIDENTS. driver was also in high spirits at the prospect of a speedy termination of his arduous labors. He had frequently bemoaned his fate in having, at his age, and for the first time in his life, become reduced to the level of a common mule driver. The near sorrel mule, whose thick and unfeeling hide had, for three long days, been the recipi- ent of unceasing wallopings from the driver’s almost worn-out whip and nearly disabled arm, seemed to be inspired with the idea that he was approaching the end of his journey. His long ears, instead of flopping list- lessly back upon his neck, suddenly assumed a rigid posi- tion a little forward of the perpendicular ; and away he went over the almost trackless road, down hills, through caverns, gulches and gorges, at arate which seemed to hazard the safety of our outfit, to say nothing of our own lives and limbs, till we reached the foot of Guy’s Hill, which suddenly stretched its huge and uncouth sides directly athwart our path. The road up this formidable hill is located wpon the zigzag principle—that is, it switches back and forth in the gorges, and along the rough mountain sides a dis- tance of nearly two miles from the base to the summit. Fearful tales were told us by our driver, of the many acci- dents and hair-breadth escapes which had occurred here; and we were impressed with the idea that so important a thoroughfare, and one over which so large a traffic be- tween Denver, and the heart of the mining regions about Central City, was necessarily carried on, should have been made to follow the equally direct, and far more gentle and uniform grades of the Valley of Clear Creek. This will, as a matter of economy, if not necessity, be done sooner or later, either by railroad or turnpike. : Having safely reached the high summit of Guy’s Hill, our descent through Golden Gate to Golden City, a dis- WESTERN INCIDENTS. 25 tance of sixteen miles from the junction, was speedy and uninterrupted. CLEAR CREEK CANON—IRON AND COAL. _ Mr. Williams was desirous here, if time permitted, of making some further examination and notes of the coal and iron deposits; and also of the lower end of the Clear Creek cation. Halting therefore, at eleven o’clock, at the Cheney House, we were speedily furnished with excellent saddle-horses, through the kindness of Messrs. Loveland and Fisher, the former of whom accompanied us some distance up the cafion; and also over a considerable ex- tent of the outcroppings of iron-ore and coal, of which he is the principal owner. After which, and the partaking of a very good dinner, in company with the stage passen- gers from Denver to Central City, we resumed our jour- ney to Denver. The snow had nearly disappeared from the surface at the foot of the mountain ranges; and had left in its place a deep salvy mud, which rendered the roads heavy and tedious. The near sorrel mule had evidently lost much of the interest in our progress which he had so satisfac- torily manifested in the earlier part of the day; and his ears (that unfailing indication of a mule’s thoughts) were manifestly tending considerably backward of the perpen-. dicular. Our venerable driver’s right arm, however, had become well rested, and he was able, by its constant use, to reach Denver by four o’clock in the afternoon. ENTRANCE INTO DENVER. Tt was, however, at this last stage in our eventful jour- ney, and when near its termination, that Mr. Williams’ 2 26 WESTERN INCIDENTS. commendable desire for further information, came near being the innocent cause of a most serious calamity to our venerable driver and outfit. Mr. Williams had in- timated that he would like to approach, and enter the city, by another road from that by which we had departed, so that he might obtain a different view of its present extent and future resources. This induced the driver to take a road which, unfortunately, led past his stable, on the way to the Planter’s House, where we were to stop. On passing the stable, the contest between the driver and mules was most spirited and exciting; business in town for the moment seemed to be suspended ; and every one was anxiously awaiting the result of the driver's efforts to reach the hotel on the next block. It was in vain that I suggested that we had plenty of time to stop at the stable, and exchange our outfit before proceeding to the hotel—the driver swore that he would drive the d—n mules to the hotel or h-Il, and he did not much care which. And he came near succeeding in both; for, on finally reaching the hotel, and just as our venerable friend had taken the last article of baggage from the carriage, the pesky animals (if they may be dignified by that re- spectable name) started off suddenly on their own hook for a run-away. The driver was knocked down while closing the carriage door, but fortunately the wheels did not pass over him. And the outfit went sailing and . crashing down the street, among the carriages, and herds of mules and cattle, towards the rivers. After recovering from a most improper, but uncontrol- lable fit of laughter, occasioned by the sudden and very unexpected turn things had taken, I assisted our venera- ble friend to his feet. He was covered with mud, his countenance was pale with rage and fright, and his lips and clenched teeth muttered curses low but deep against WESTERN INCIDENTS. 27 the whole family of mules and their offspring, now, hence- forth and forever. The mules and carriage, unimpaired, were soon brought back, however, by an intrepid horseman who had stopped them in their mad career; and the last I saw of our out- fit, it was going at double-quick toward the stable, the head of the driver surging above and below the top of the carriage, as he administered to the refractory mules such merited punishment as his remaining strength enabled him to do. Thus ended our trip to Berthoud Pass, and the Snowy Range of the Rocky Mountains. 28 WESTERN INOIDENTS. COLORADO AGRICULTURAL FAIR—-TRIP FROM DENVER TO LAPORTH— LAPORTE TO VIRGINIA DALE—STONEWALL CANON—STEAMBOAT BUTTE, ANTELOPE PASS AND THE LARAMIE PLAINS——ARRIVAL AT FORT JOHN BUFORD. Fort Joun Burorp, Laramre Prats, D. T., Thursday, September 27, 1866. The first Agricultural Fair of Colorado had been advertised to come off on Thursday, September 20, and be continued on Friday and Saturday; but the severe storm of the preceding Wednesday had made the travel- ling so bad, that the Committee determined to post- pone the commencement till Friday, and continue the exhibition till the following Tuesday. On Friday morning Mr. Williams and myself were invited to visit the grounds by General Pierce, the Sur- veyor-General of the Territory, and General Hughes, the general agent and attorney for Holladay’s Overland Stage and Express Company. We found that the grounds, which are situated about one and a half miles to the northeast of Denver City, consisted of forty acres of most beautiful plain in the form of a parallelogram, inclosed by a tight wall, composed of concrete, about two feet thick and eight feet high. Upon one side of the rectangle was an elliptical track one half mile in length, for the trial of the speed of horses and mules ; and upon the other side were innumerable stalls for the exhibition of domestic animals. In the centre was a large covered amphitheatre, in which were exhibited the products of the soil, and such articles of trade and commerce as the mechanical skill of WESTERN INCIDENTS. 29 the Territory could produce. The whole affair, both in its inception and execution, would have done credit to any State east of the Missouri River. The articles which most attracted our attention were the mammoth specimens of vegetables on exhibition. Such cabbages, beets, turnips, tomatoes and potatoes I have seldom seen at any State or county exhibition in New York, and they were all produced by irrigation. The farmers with whom we conversed informed us, that they much preferred this sure method of raising a crop, to the uncertainty attending all farming operations in the Eastern States where they had resided; the expense was comparatively trifling, and their preparations for irriga- tion had now become so far advanced, that they felt sure of being able to supply the entire demand hereafter, and at moderate prices. The knowledge of this fact has changed my whole former theory on this subject. I had supposed that the immense population which is settlmg in the mountains, would have to be supplied with agricultural products, for all time, from the productive regions of the lower Platte, and the States of Iowa, Illinois and Missouri. But now I see that all these lands, lying along the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains, and susceptible of being irrigated by the mountain streams, whose sources are the eternal snows upon their summits, will sooner or later be made to produce all that will be required for the millions of hardy mountaineers, whose thirst and search for gold and the other precious metals preclude them from devoting their time to agricultural pursuits, even though the cli- mate and soil of the mountain regions should warrant it. The specimens of jewelry, saddlery, needle-work and other varieties of mechanical skill too numerous to men- tion, were remarkable for their ingenuity and perfection. 30 WESTERN INCIDENTS. And we came away from the fair grounds, after witness- ing one or two trials of speed between a lot of second or third class trotting horses, impressed with the idea that this young and unfledged State was bound soon to take higher rank in the confederacy than some of the “ Old Thirteen.” Under the new programme, the trial of the fastest horses, and riding by the ladies, which we would like much to have seen, had been postponed to the following week. FROM DENVER TO LAPORTE, On the afternoon of Saturday, September 22, we again left Denver, by Holladay’s Overland Stage Line, for the scene of our future explorations in the Black Hills, north and west of Laporte. The light from the stars and wan- ing moon was barely sufficient to reveal the dim outline of the ragged sides and crest of the mountain ranges as we passed within a few miles of their base, and across Clear, Coal, Boulder, St. Vrain, Little and Big Thomson and Cache la Poudre Creeks, that flow from the huge gorges in their sides. We reached Laporte, a distance of sixty-seven miles by stage road from Denver, at daybreak on Sunday morning, and found most comfortable quarters at the stage-station, kept by Mr. Taylor; and were joined, in the evening, by General G. M. Dodge, Chief Engineer, and Mr. James A. Evans, Division Engineer, of the Union Pacific Railroad. We were now about to enter in real earnest upon the rough and adventurous features of our excursion. Gen- eral Dodge commenced our education by intimating in the most gentle manner, that we would be expected to feed, water and clean our saddle-horses during the trip. WESTERN INCIDENTS. OL Our host of the Ranch also informed us, that he had no sleeping accommodations for us, and that we had better look around for lodgings. In view of such an emergency, Mr. Williams and my- self had fortunately provided ourselves with plenty of buffalo skins, blankets and ponchos. We therefore inti- mated to the landlord, that one of us would occupy the lounge in the corner of the dining-room, and the other would sleep on the floor by the stove. Upon this the cook, a buxom middle-aged woman, with a sucking child, called out from the kitchen, in not very gentle tones, ~ that that lounge was her bed. Mr. Chamberlain, an enterprising merchant in the vicinity, here came to our relief, and kindly offered us the use of the floor in the back room of his log-store, which we were very glad to accept. The following day was spent in making preparations for ourintended reconnoissance on horseback, of the Black Hills and Laramie Plains. An easy-going black saddle- horse was procured of Mr. Chamberlain, for the use of Mr. Williams. A chestnut cavalry horse, procured by General Dodge from Fort Collins, was allotted to me. He had previously selected a fine roan from the same place for himself. And Mr. Evans adhered to a large black mule which he had been riding for some days pre- viously. He very kindly offered this mule to Mr. Wil- liams, with the quiet remark, however, that he was apt to buck once in a while, which meant, as he afterward ex- plained, that he would occasionally stick his head down between his fore legs, kick up behind, and throw his rider over his head. Mr. Williams having had some experience with mules, on our trip to Berthoud Pass, very promptly declined the offer. Hon. Green Clay Smith, Governor of Montana, break- fasted with us as he was passing through with his suite, by stage, on his way to the scene of his future labors. 32 WESTERN INCIDENTS. FROM LAPORTE OVER THE BLACK HILL RANGE. On Tuesday morning, September 25, our party, con- sisting of Mr. Wiliams, General Dodge, Mr. Evans and myself, started from Laporte, fully mounted and equipped as cavalry, and armed to the teeth with breech-loading carbines dangling from our saddles, and revolvers buckled around our waists, accompanied by a supply wagon, in charge of Mr. McLain, one of Mr. Evans’ assistants, in which were our bedding, and such supplies as we would be likely to want on our trip. Our course lay up the valley of the Cache la Poudre a few miles, and then we turned more northerly and fol- lowed up the valley of one of its tributaries, which again led us into the valleys of the Pitchfork, Stonewall, Poisen and Dale Creeks. To the right of us, toward the Plains, were what time had suffered to remain of the rough, jagged crests of the secondary formations as they had rested from the great upheaval of this portion of the earth’s surface, when, dur- ing some former age, Old Vulcan had undoubtedly fallen asleep, and allowed the subterranean fires, which he used in forging those immense iron wedges and other machinery with which he keeps the universe in equili- brium, to attain too great a degree of heat. To the left of us were the higher and more imperish- able debris of these same formations, flanked in the dis- tance by the snow-clad summits of the primeval rocks, which have for so many centuries withstood the combined attacks of time and the elements. The objects of more immediate interest, however, were the “ Stonewall Ca- fon,” with its perpendicular walls of rock several hundred feet in height; and the “Steamboat Butte,” which from a distance presents to view all the characteristics of a WESTERN INCIDENTS. OO steamboat, with upper cabin, chimneys, pilot-house, etc., the passer-by pausing unconsciously to hear the bell ring, and the familiar cry of “ All aboard,” before it shall start away. Our wagon, having followed the travelled road, which we were compelled in a great measure to avoid, had ob- tained some distance the start of us; and we did not overtake it until about two Pp. M. Having been in the saddle at least six consecutive hours, we were very glad to dis- mount, and, after unsaddling, watering and picketing our horses, and extending ourselves upon the grass in the shade of the wagon, partake of a lunch which our com- missary (McLain) had made ready for us ; after which a ride of three hours brought us to Virginia Dale, one of the stations of the Overland Stage Company. A NIGHT AT VIRGINIA DALE. This is a most beautiful amphitheatre, surrounded by mountains, with Dale Creek running through the centre; and is near the boundary line between Colorado and Da- kotah. Gen. Dodge here suggested that all the requisites for a good camping ground were at hand, to wit—wood, water, and plenty of grass for our animals; but while the wagon was coming up, I took the liberty of riding forward to the stage ranch; and received the gratifying intelligence that the proprietor was prepared and willing to afford both man and beast very comfortable accommo- dations for the night. Mr. Williams at first objected, saying that he had come out expecting and fully pre- pared to rough it in the mountains, sleep on the ground, &c., and he thought it was about time to try it; but he finally yielded very gracefully ; and, after providing for the comfort of our horses, we soon found ourselves seated OX 34 WESTERN INCIDENTS. before a cheerful fire, talking over the peculiarities of the country and incidents of the day. A most excellent supper of coffee, warm rolls, boiled potatoes and stewed antelope, together with the fatigues of the day, inclined us to seek early repose; but here a new embarrassment awaited us. There was but one spare bed in the ranch, and there were at least three of our party for whom, with proper deference to age and rank, the enjoyment of this luxury would seem quite appropri- ate; but both Mr. Williams and Gen. Dodge were inex- orable; and I, whose romance had nearly oozed out dur- ing the day, was obliged to submit to the mortifying necessity of occupying the comfortable bed, while they camped down in their robes and blankets upon the floor, in opposite corners of the same room. ANTELOPE PASS AND LARAMIE PLAINS. We were again on our way early the following morn- ing. Having ordered the wagon to halt for lunch at the Willow Springs stage station, we followed up the valley of Dale Creek in the direction of Antelope Pass, which we reached at one Pp. M. This pass is supposed to be the lowest point in a depression extending several miles longitudinally along the crest of the Black Hill range, and is about 8,000 feet above the sea. From this sum- mit we were greeted with our first view of Laramie Plains, extending as far to the northward as the éye could reach, bounded on the east by the Black Hills; and on the west by the much higher range of the Medicine Bow Moun- tains, which form the easterly side of the North Park. This pass was named “ Antelope” by Gen. Case (who first explored it for the Union Pacific Railroad Company in 1864), on account of the numerous herds of antelope WESTERN INCIDENTS, that he found in its vicinity. We saw several groups, but they were careful to keep beyond the range of our carbines; and we were therefore obliged to proceed on our journey with only a mountain grouse, and jack rabbit in our haversacks, which I had brought down with my Ballard carbine during our morning ride. Our descent toward the Laramie Plains, soon brought us to an intersection with the stage road, which we fol- lowed to the station at Willow Springs, where we found our attentive commissary prepared to receive us, with an excellent lunch for ourselves, and provender for our animals. A further ride of six or eight miles, brought us to Fort “ John Buford,” just at sunset, where we were most hos- pitably received and entertained by Col. Mizner, the offi- cer in command. In addition to his own quarters, which he placed at our disposal, he caused to be put up another fine wall-tent for the accommodation of the balance of the party ; and our stay thus far of one night in his camp has been both pleasant and refreshing. 36 WESTERN INCIDENTS. V. A DAY AT FORT JOHN BUFORD,“ ON THE LARAMIE PLAINS—wMR, WILLIAMS’ LETTER—EASTWARD BOUND—-DEATH OF THE ELK— CROSSING OF THE BLACK HILLS AT EVANS’ PASS—DESCENT TOWARDS THE PLAINS—CAMP ON DALE CREEK—-LONE ROCK— NARROW ESCAPE OF A HERD OF ELK—CAMP ON LONE TREE— BOX-ELDER—-DEATH OF THE ANTELOPE—RETURN TO LAPORTE. Larortr, Conorapo, Monday, October 1, 1866. Thursday, the 27th of September, was spent by our party at and about Fort John Buford, on the Laramie Plains. Mr. Evans and myself took a leisurely ride in the afternoon, of some seven or eight miles down the Laramie River, for the purpose of inspecting one of the crossings proposed for the Union Pacific Railroad. Mr. Williams employed himself in posting up his notes, writing letters, and examining maps and profiles with General Dodge. And the General himself examined, with his military eye, in company with Colonel Mizner, the extensive warehouses, barracks, ete., which were in process of construction for the better accommodation and protection of the troops and their supplies. The following letter was written by Mr. Williams on the day of our sojourn at the Fort, a copy of which he has kindly furnished me :— Fort Joun Burorp, Daxoran Territory, September 27, 1866. To the Editor of the Fort Wayne Gazette— My last was from Berthoud Pass, September 18th. The day was delightful. The next day we encountered a snow storm. Stopping half way down the eastern slope of the mountain, we found the snow * Name since changed to ‘‘ Fort Saunders.” WESTERN INCIDENTS. on the morning of the 19th eight inches deep—icicles on the eaves two feet long, and the thermometer only sixteen degrees above zero. West of the mountain range, the snow fell to the depth of two feet, com- pelling Mr. Brown’s engineer party to abandon the survey, for the time ’ being, and cross the range for subsistence for the mules, after dividing with them the rations for the men. At Denver there was but a sprinkling of snow. Such are the varied meteorological effects caused by difference of elevation, and the influence of the mountain range, in arresting and precipitating the moisture. Passing north to the Black Hills; and beginning the ascent of this range at the Cache-la-Poudre, the largest tributary of the South Platie, which takes its rise in the snowy heights of Loug’s Peak, we followed on horseback to this place, another of the experimental lines run for the Union Pacific Railroad, crossing at Antelope Pass. Our party in this most interesting reconnoissance consisted of Gen. Dodge, Chief Engineer of the U. P. R. R., Col. Silas Seymour, Consulting Engineer, and Mr. Evans, the engineer who made the surveys. Travelling in a northwest direction, we had the snow-capped peaks of the grand snowy range always in view twenty to thirty miles to the left. The highest altitude reached on this survey is 8,050 feet above the sea. The tran- sition from the sedementary rocks forming the slope near the base, to the granite which everywhere composes the central and higher parts of these mountain ranges, is plainly marked. In the secondary forma- tion, and lying geologically next above the granite, is observed near the base of mountains on both slopes, what our geologist decides to be the veritable “ old red sand-stone” of Hugh Miller; which the genius of that distinguished devotee of geological research invested with so much interest in the scientific circles of Europe. The valley of the Laramie river,in which we have travelled for twenty miles,on the western side of the mountain, is a vast plain without a shrub. It is twenty-five to thirty miles wide. The groves of pine on the Medicine Bow Mountains, forming its western bound- ary, and on the Black Hills to the east, is a relief to the view. Fort Buford, from which I write, is a newly established U. 8. mili- tary Post, now in the course of erection, taking the place of both Forts Halleck and Collins, which are to be abandoned. It is on the Laramie Plains, 125 miles northwest of Denver, on the road to Salt Lake. The name is in honor of the distinguished Cavalry General, who defeated the rebel General Stewart in Virginia, but died soon afterwards. Col. Mizner, of the 18th U. 8. Infantry, who hails from Detroit, is in 38 WESTERN INCIDENTS. — command. His kindness to our party, while resting here for a day, is unbounded. From this point we expect to return over another experimental sur- vey, crossing the Black Hills further north at Evans’ Pass, and thence to Crow Creek and Lodge Pole Creek—branches of the South Platte, In that section the Indians indulge in mule stealing (and sometimes in scalping their owners), having recently taken seventy mules from a transportation train. General Dodge has been furnished by order of the Department Commander, with an escort of twenty soldiers, ten of whom are mounted. Major-General Dodge, before the war, was a civil engineer on the railroads of Illinois and Iowa, and had explored, extensively, these plains and mountains. Until recently, he was in command of this military department; and by all these opportunities has ac- quired much knowledge of the topography of this region. His services in the location of the Pacific Railroad will be valuable, as, in the late war, they were eminently distinguished in the high commands which he held in the Union army. But the people of the Council Bluff district, in Iowa, are about to lay violent hands on him, and, without any effort on his part,make him a member of the Fortieth Congress. J. L. WILLIAMS. I desire to add my testimony to that of Mr. Williams, in relation to the perseverance and skill which General Dodge has brought to bear in directing the surveys during the past year, through this difficult and mountainous country. And, also, to the intelligence manifested by Mr. Evans, in all the important details of topography connected with the extensive surveys and reconnoissances made by him for the Railroad Company, during the past three years, upon this and other portions of the line. Captain McCleary, the very accomplished and gentle- manly officer second in command at the Fort, returned in the evening from a hunting excursion on horseback, with his horse and that of his orderly literally laden with wild geese and ducks, which he had slaughtered during the day. on the Laramie River, within a few miles of the Fort. WESTERN INCIDENTS. Arrangements were also made with Colonel Mizner by General Dodge, for an escort of twenty infantry, ten of whom were to be mounted; this precaution being deemed prudent, if not absolutely necessary, on account of the late depredations of the Indians in the vicinity of the route by which we proposed to return. EASTWARD BOUND. All preparations being perfected, we bade our friends at the Fort adieu, at an early hour on Friday morning, and started on our backward course. The weather was now, and had during the past few days, been perfectly delight- ful. The sun, perhaps a little too hot during mid-day, had blistered our ears and noses somewhat; but the soft, balmy air of the Plains tended to elevate our spirits; and the hazy, dreamy state of the atmosphere, rendered the dissolving views of the distant mountains truly enchant- ing. Our road for several miles was the same which we had previously followed to the Fort. DEATH OF THE ELK. On reaching a point some six miles from the Fort, in the vicinity of a beautiful lake, we were electrified by the appearance of a very large and beautiful Elk-Stag upon the verge of the lake; and apparently transfixed to the spot by some mysterious and fatal power which he could not control. Several shots were fired almost simultane- ously, and after staggering a few rods he fell. When we reached the noble animal, life was extinct. Modesty, while it will not justify any material departure from truth, always forbids the historian of any great achievement from arrogating to himself peculiar prowess, WESTERN INCIDENTS. 41 FISHERMEN’S LUCK. We reached our camping ground, in the beautiful val- ley of Dale Creek, at four o’clock in the afternoon, having ridden about sixteen miles. Gen. Dodge had promised to regale us with plenty of speckled trout, from the clear, cold mountain streams along our route; but up to this time, the only ones we had seen or tasted were upon the dinner table of our excellent and hospitable friend, Gen. . Pierce, of Denver City. As we were watering our animals in Dale Creek, just previous to our halt for the day, the General declared that he saw several speckled trout in the stream ; and imme- diate preparations were therefore made to secure suflfi- cient for our supper. The General and myself trolled the stream for a half mile in each direction, Mr. Wil- liams following with a gunny-sack in- which to bag our prey ; but it was of no avail; nota bite, nor even the faintest nibble, did I have ; but the General protested to at least one fair bite, and some half-dozen glimpses of the little rascals as they dodged around the bends in the stream. We were therefore compelled to fall back upon our regular bill of fare for dinner, aided by our elk- steaks, which, being fried with bacon, we found most excellent. CAMPING OUT. We had at last reached the realization of our hopes and dreams, and were actually “camping out” in the mountains. We could roll in the long grass, drink our fill from the sparkling stream, sing and halloo as loud as we pleased, without disturbing any one outside of our own little party. The Indians might be watching us from some of the surrounding crags, and coveting our WESTERN INCIDENTS. 4] FISHERMEN’S LUCK. We reached our camping ground, in the beautiful val- ley of Dale Creek, at four o’clock in the afternoon, having ridden about sixteen miles. Gen. Dodge had promised to regale us with plenty of speckled trout, from the clear, cold mountain streams along our route; but up to this time, the only ones we had seen or tasted were upon the dinner table of our excellent and hospitable friend, Gen. Pierce, of Denver City. As we were watering our animals in Dale Creek, just previous to our halt for the day, the General declared that he saw several speckled trout in the stream; and imme- diate preparations were therefore made to secure sufii- cient for our supper. The General and myself trolled the stream for a half mile in each direction, Mr. Wil- liams following with a gunny-sack in which to bag our prey ; but it was of no avail; nota bite, nor even the faintest nibble, did I have ; but the General protested to at least one fair bite, and some half-dozen glimpses of the little rascals as they dodged around the bends in the stream. We were therefore compelled to fall back upon our regular bill of fare for dinner, aided by our elk- steaks, which, being fried with bacon, we found most excellent. CAMPING OUT. We had at last reached the realization of our hopes and dreams, and were actually “camping out” in the mountains. We could roll in the long grass, drink our fill from the sparkling stream, sing and halloo as loud as we pleased, without disturbing any one outside of our own little party. The Indians might be watching us from some of the surrounding crags, and coveting our 42, WESTERN INCIDENTS. scalps as trophies for the adornment of their wigwams ; or might be planning an escapade for our stock; but what matter—we all felt that innate sense of security and reliance upon ourselves, which always accompanies a wild and roving mountain life; and which, we felt confi- dent, would enable us to cope successfully with five times our number of these savage denizens of the forest. Our “headquarters” had been furnished, through the kindness of Col. Mizner, with two wedge tents, each cap- able of sheltering and sleeping two persons comfortably ; these were pitched near our wagon; and the wagons and tents of our escort were distributed at a respectful dis- tance in our rear. The General gave the necessary instructions to the Sergeant in command of the escort, respecting the careful picketing of our stock, and the posting of the guard for the protection of our camp from surprise during the night; and after we had indulged in our most comfortable evening talk and smoke, by the light of our waning camp-fire, we were admonished by the cool evening air, and the noiseless quiet which reigned around us, that it was time for us to retire to rest. LONE; ROCK—ESCAPE OF AN ANTELOPE. After an early breakfast the following morning, we pur- sued our way over the high and somewhat broken divides till we reached the plain which stretches itself between the valleys of Lone Tree and Crow Creeks. On pass- ing an immense detached pile of granite rock, eighty feet high, and fifty feet square at the base, Gen. Dodge and Mr. Evans ascended with some difficulty to its summit, and reported a most extended view of the surrounding country. A little further on, while most of our party were col- WESTERN INCIDENTS. 43 lected upon an eminence, some of the escort started up an antelope at some distance from us, which, from the shouts and firing of its pursuers, became almost fran- tic with fright ; and, after circling partly round the hill, actually approached so near to where we stood that we could distinctly see its wild, staring eyes, and panting chest. Stopping for a moment immediately in front of us, it seemed to take in the situation at a glance, when it turned and left us like the wind. Several shots were fired at the beautiful animal, but it seemed to have a charmed life. NARROW ESCAPE OF A HERD OF ELE. Still further on we espied, at a distance of about a quarter of a mile in advance, a herd of some thirty elk, quietly reposing in the valley. Gen. Dodge, Mr. Evans, and myself immediately dismounted, and endeavored to make our way to the shelter of an intervening ledge before they should discover us; but what was our cha- grin upon reaching the desired spot, which was within easy range of our carbines, to find that some of the escort, in hurrying over a hill to our right, had alarmed the herd ; and that they were flying from us at full speed. These, with an occasional shot at a sage hen, or far-off antelope, comprised the only sporting recreations of the day. We made our camp in the valley of Lone Tree Creek at four P. M., having travelled eighteen miles from our camp of the previous night. | After partaking of our frugal dinner, and arranging matters for the night, Mr. Evans and myself strolled a few miles up the creek, in the faint hope of meeting again with the herd of elk which had fled in this direction; but they were nowhere to be seen. The next day being Sunday; and. as 44 WESTERN INCIDENTS. ‘The sound of the church-going bell, These valleys and rocks never heard—” we concluded to work our way out upon the Plains by easy stages, and camp sufficiently far in advance to enable us to reach Laporte for dinner on the following day. We stopped an hour or so in the middle of the day, at Jack’s Springs, where General Dodge regaled us with lunch from a French patti of plover, which was most excellent, and should form a staple for all self-subsisting travellers. At four P. M. we reached the valley of Box-Elder Creek, and encamped for the night. Our route during most of the day had passed over the heavy swells, or sedimentary formations, which lie be- tween the former base of the mountains and the present level of the plains; and which were formed, undoubt- edly, by débris of the more perishable rocks, brought down by the mountain torrents, and deposited in long, irregular slopes at their base. DEATH OF THE ANTELOPE. On Monday morning we resumed our course towards Laporte, having left our escort to await orders at Camp Box-Elder. Our route lay over very much the same character of country as we had traversed the previous day. When at a distance of about two miles from camp, Mr. Williams, who was riding in advance, observed an antelope, lymg down, some three or four hundred yards directly in our front. He quietly halted until the balance of the party came up, when General Dodge and myself dismounted and prepared for action; Messrs. Williams and Evans remaining in their saddles, the better to observe the effect of our guns. The General, from his long practice, was able to unlim- WESTERN INCIDENTS. ber his carbine and bring it to bear before I was quite prepared, and consequently obtained the first shot, upon which the animal, evidently aroused from a quiet sleep, quickly arose to its feet, and looked toward us for an ex- planation. Seeing my advantage, and having observed that the General’s ball struck the ground some distance short of the antelope, I concluded that the distance was too great for a point blank range, and therefore decided to fire upon the ricochet principle, which proved entirely successful. The animal fell instantly, and when we reached the spot was almost lifeless from loss of blood, caused by the passage of the ball through the neck, and severing the carotid artery. Mr. Williams, although evidently entertaining some doubts as to the legitimacy of the shot, manifested great delight at the result; and, without intending any disrespect to General Dodge, whose reputation for skill in bagging much larger game had become so well established during the late war, im- mediately pronounced me the huntist of the party, and awarded me the beautiful skin as an additional trophy. Our commissary, McLain, on coming up soon afterward, hung the antelope upon the elk-horns at the rear of the wagon, and thus followed us triumphantly into Laporte, where we arrived at eleven A. M. END OF THE MOUNTAIN EXCURSION. Thus ended the equestrian part of our excursion. The exercise had been long and somewhat severe ; but the natural as well as professional interest which Mr. Wil- liams and myself had taken in the features of the country (150 miles of which we had traversed on horseback dur- ing the past six days), together with, to us, the unusual 46 WESTERN INCIDENTS. and exciting incidents connected with mountain camp- life, had made the time pass most pleasantly; and caused us to regret the pressure of other engagements which would soon compel us to leave it, and part, for a time, at least, with our most attentive and agreeable trayel- ling companions. My faithful horse had also become an object of sincere attachment. His fast, ambling gait was most easy and comfortable, after the first one or two days of back-clima- tion; and he had never failed me, either in a sudden dash across the plain after an antelope, or the difficult crossing of a mountain-ledge or chasm; and I parted from him with sincere regret. But I fear it was not so with my friend Mr. Williams, whose black horse “ Chug-water” (which name he gave him on account of some peculiarity in his gait) came near _ failing him on several occasions ; once, I recollect, when he stumbled and broke his saddle-girth ; and quite fre- quently when he would persistently try to descend a hill upward, or, rather I should say, sideways or backward, instead of the straightforward way downward. WESTERN INCIDENTS. 47 VI. THE PARTING SUPPER AT LAPORTE—-JOURNEY TO DENVER—-RETURN TRIP OVER THE PLAINS TO KEARNY——-MEETING WITH BEN HOL- LADAY AND FRIENDS——RAILROAD TRIP TO OMAHA—-TRIBUTE TO THOMAS C. DURANT——-REMARKABLE PROGRESS OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD—-TROUBLES AT THE HERNDEN HOUSE. Omana, Neprasxa, Monday, Oct. 8, 1866. LAPORTE TO DENVER AND KEARNY. After a most excellent parting supper from the antelope, killed the previous day, and other fixings which our hostess, Mrs. Taylor, provided in her best style, Mr. Williams and myself parted from our friends, Gen. Dodge and Mr. Evans, at Laporte, on the evening of October 1, and took the stage for Denver; which place we reached for breakfast on the following morning, with- out accident or adventure. The succeeding day was spent in preparing for our departure eastward. On Wednesday morning, October 3, we took our seats in one of Ben Holladay’s best coaches, in company with Senator Chaffee, of Central City, Colorado bound for a connection with the somewhat more comfortable cars of the Union Pacific Railroad, at the nearest practicable point, which we hoped to be Plum Creek, or some point further west. The roads were in excellent condition; and nothing worth noting occurred to break the dull monotony of our passage over the dry and sterile plains, covered with low tufts of yellow frost-bitten grass, and the 48 WESTERN INCIDENTS. whitened bones or decaying carcasses of innumerable cattle which had fallen out by the way, until we reached Fort Kearny on the following Saturday morning for breakfast. Mr. Williams, however, did not lose an opportunity of impressing upon our minds, as we met and passed the long emigrant and freight trains, wending their slow and tedious way to and from the more distant West, the truth and practicability of his favorite theories in relation to the formation and ultimate destiny of this portion of the country, which were: First.—That the Great Platte Valley, extending, as it does, in a direct line eastward, nearly six hundred miles from the base of the Rocky Mountains to the Missouri Valley, was intended as the great thoroughfare for the overland commerce of the world. Second.—That the Platte River itself was intended, in the first instance, to supply water to the early pioneers and emigrants in their pilgrimages to and from the Rocky Mountains; and subsequently to afford the means for irrigating the immense plains along its borders; and thus render it eventually one of the finest pastoral and agri- cultural regions upon the continent. And, Third.—That the perpetual snows upon the mountains were intended to furnish an unfailing supply of water to the mountain streams which flow into the Platte; and thus, during all time, afford the means of irrigation to the extensive table lands along the eastern base of the mountains. BEN HOLLADAY AND FRIENDS. At Fort Kearny we met the veritable Ben. Holladay himself, with his agent, Mr. Street, and travelling com- panion, Dr. Sayre, of New York city; together with a WESTERN INCIDENTS. select party of friends, who had accompanied him the previous day in a special train over the Union Pacific Railroad from Omaha. Mr. Holladay was on a tour of inspection over his stage route to Denver and Salt Lake City; and he in- formed us that he should probably visit San Francisco before returning to New York. We examined with some curiosity his fine private four-horse coach, which seemed perfect inall its appointments, having ample stow- age and sleeping accommodations for a party of three or four gentlemen, or even ladies. Mr. Holladay also informed us, that he could not well shorten up this end of the stage route, and make an earlier connection with the cars, which were now running some forty or fifty miles west of Kearny, until the track had reached a point opposite Cottonwood Station, where the Platte river could be crossed without difficulty. This will -be done about the first of November; and then the staging to Denver will be reduced to two days instead of three, as it is at present. KEARNY TO OMAHA BY RAILROAD. We crossed the Platte, in company with Mr. Holladay’s returning friends, and took a special tram for Omaha, over the Union Pacific Railroad, at ten 4. mu. Here we learned that during our absence, the Government Com- missioners had been out and accepted thirty-five addi- tional miles of track, making in all, two hundred and forty-miles of road, from the initial point at Omaha. The scene along the road was both interesting and exciting. Here was a fine passenger station in course of construction ; there, a freight or water station was being put up, as if by magic. Now, we were halted upon a side- 3 50 WESTERN INCIDENTS. track to allow a train of thirty or forty cars laden with ties, rails, chairs, and spikes for the track, to pass. And then, we would meet a train laden with stone or other material for the foundations or superstructure of a distant bridge. Everything, and everybody seemed full of life and energy ; and all working to the same great end, and being directed by the same master mind. TRIBUTE TO THOMAS C. DURANT. No one who knows Mr. Thomas C. Durant, the Vice- President of the Union Pacific Railroad; and has wit- nessed. his entire devotion to this great enterprise, and the untiring energy which he has brought to bear in over- coming the many difficulties in its rapid construction, while acting as the principal executive officer of the Company, in the absence of the President, Gen. Dix (whose time, during the late war, was principally devoted to his duties in the army), will hesitate to award to him the highest honors, both as a railroad manager and public benefactor. One year ago, not a mile of road had been accepted by the Government ; only twelve or fifteen miles had been laid west of Omaha; and it was struggling along at the rate of from one-quarter to a half mile per day. To-day, two hundred and forty miles of track have been accepted by the Government. Some twelve or fifteen miles addi- tional have been completed, and it is steadily progres- sing at the rate of from one and a half to two miles per day. Fourteen thousand and two hundred feet, or two and seven-tenths miles, have been laid in a single day. One year ago, the foundations were commenced for the machine shops at the eastern terminus of the road. To- day, they are substantially completed, and in full opera- WESTERN INCIDENTS. 51 tion, with stalls for twenty locomotives, and machinery for doing the repairs of three hundred miles of road; also car- shops, manufacturing and turning out two cars each day; and the whole giving employment to three hundred and fifty mechanics. One year ago, there were only three loco- motives and twenty platform cars engaged in the trans- portation of materials. ‘To-day, there are twenty-three locomotives, and two hundred and fifty freight cars employed in the same business—five first-class passenger cars, with the necessary mail and baggage cars, and two magnificent excursion and sleeping cars, prepared for their appropriate use. One year ago, passengers for Denver, Salt Lake, and San Francisco were obliged to ride the whole distance from the Missouri river in old- fashioned stage-coaches, hacks or mud-wagons. To-day, there are no stages running east of Fort Kearny; and nearly one half the distance to Denver may be travelled in ten hours, and in the most luxurious passenger cars. One year ago, every pound of freight, owned either by the Government or individuals, had to be transported west of the Missouri, by means of ox or mule teams, at the slow rate of fifteen or twenty miles per day. To-day, cars heavily laden with Government stores and private freight, destined for the western slope of the continent, are attached to the construction trains, and find their way in twenty-four hours to the end of the track, many miles west of the one hundredth meridian. One year ago, the great Union Pacific Railroad was regarded as a myth, and the men engaged in and con- trolling it, as a set of stockjobbing Wall-street speculators. To-day, it is known and felt to be a power and a reality; and Mr. Durant and his associates are believed to be in earnest, and fully capable of carrying out to successful 52 WESTERN INCIDENTS. completion the mammoth work which they have under- taken. When it is remembered that this great transition has been accomplished in one short year, in a country desti- tute of labor, materials, and supplies; and with nothing but the dangerous and uncertain navigation of the Mis- souri River to rely upon during the summer months as a base of operations, it must be admitted that a new era is dawning, or rather has already been successfully inaugu- rated, in the history of railroad construction. ARRIVAL AT OMAHA—DEPARTURE OF MR. WILLIAMS. Arrriving at the Omaha depot in the early evening, we were met by our genial friend Major Bent, of burnetiz- ing notoriety, who kindly assisted us to the Hernden House, and saw that we were comfortably quartered for the night. We found, however, that the Hernden, which has long been regarded as one of the most prominent institutions of Omaha, was in a sort of transition state, and its guests, as the farmers say, “ between hay and grass.” Our long time friend, and distinguished host, Mr. Allan, had been called upon by Dr. Monell, the landlord, to surrender its use and occupation into the fair hands of Mrs. Brown- son, who had recently leased it, and stood ready to enter upon the duties of hostess as soon as Mr. Allan could find it convenient to evacuate the premises, all of which the said Allan seemed in no haste to do. An entire week had been spent by the parties in strat- egy and legal skirmishing, during which it was not unu- sual for Allan, on visiting the kitchen in the morning, to find Mrs. Brownson’s cooking-stove standing in the place of his own, which had been thrown over the adjoining WESTERN INCIDENTS. 53 fence during the night; and not unfrequently were the guests of the house stopped in the middle of a meal (while waiting, perhaps, for more warm cakes), by intelli- gence from the waiter that the stove had just been thrown out of the kitchen. Fortunately for us, however, Mrs. Brownson’s stove was outside of the fence when we arrived, and remained so during the following day, Sunday. But the condition of affairs about the hotel seemed so unsettled and critical that Mr. Williams concluded to cross over the river to Council Bluffs, during Sunday afternoon, where he could enjoy that rest and quiet which he so much needed after his long and fatiguing journey ; and at the same time be prepared to take the stage on Monday morning for Dennison, and there take the cars of the Chicago and Northwestern Railroad, for his home at Fort Wayne, Indiana. In parting from Mr. Williams, I desire to say, that it has never been my good fortune to spend so many weeks, either socially or professionally, with a more agreeable and intelligent gentleman and travelling companion; and I hope he may live long to give the world the benefits of his sound judgment, and professional skill and expe- rience, in all matters connected with our great national improvements, such as the Union Pacific Railroad, with which he has been so long, and so honorably connected. 54. WESTERN INCIDENTS. VIl. TWO WEEKS AT OMAHA—-WILD GEESE AND DUCK SHOOTING—ADVENT OF CHICAGO AND NORTHWESTERN RAILROAD AGENTS ON THEIR WAY TO DENVER—-PARTING SPEECH OF MR. TAPPEN—ANTICI- PATED ARRIVAL OF THE GREAT PACIFIC RAILROAD EXCURSION— ITS ANTECEDENTS AND OBJECTS——-DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK— ARRIVAL AT CHICAGO—ST. JOSEPH, AND OMAHA-—RECEPTION AND BALL AT OMAHA. Omana, NeprasKa, Oct. 23, 1866. The difficulties at the Hernden House, heretofore alluded to, were amicably arranged on the Monday fol-- lowing our arrival from the Rocky Mountains; and Mrs. Brownson, the new lessee, was fully installed in quiet possession. A favored few of the guests were allowed to retain our rooms in the gloomy, half-deserted house; and vegetate, as best we could, among the restaurants, until the hotel could be renovated and refurnished. Mrs. Brownson will not only prove herself to be a public benefactor, but do much towards establishing the doctrine of the social and business equality, and vested rights, of women, if she succeeds in the hazardous undertaking of keeping a good hotel. She certainly has the best wishes of her numerous friends in the town, as well as of the railroad people and travelling public generally. ' But the city of Omaha should boast of several first- class hotels. The town is growing, and will continue to grow rapidly. It has the eastern terminus of the Union Pacific Railroad; and is the half-way point between Chicago and the Rocky Mountains. No finer site was WESTERN INCIDENTS. 55 ever selected for a large city; and the country about it cannot be excelled for beauty, as well as productiveness. Elegant residences, and large brick blocks of stores, are continually being erected. “The Credit Foncier of America,” and other capitalists, are making large imvest- ments there, and the inhabitants are wealthy, energetic, and liberal. Why, then, not give us one or two more hotels, equal at least to the Tremont and Sherman House of Chicago? WILD GEESE AND DUCK SHOOTING. Having received orders to remain for the present at Omaha, I was very glad of an opportunity, when other duties would permit, of accompanying my friend Collins on his hunting expeditions to the Florence lakes, a few miles above Omaha, where fat wild geese and ducks did much abound. And here I must be permitted to say, that a young wild goose, when cooked under the supervision of Mrs. Collins, is the finest eating of the feathered game kind that I ever tasted. My friend Major Bent would sometimes join us in these excursions, and then we would be sure to return with enough game to supply our restaurant table for one or two days. CHICAGO AND NORTHWESTERN RAILWAY AGENTS. Another pleasant incident, in this somewhat dull and monotonous period of my Western sojourn, was the advent of Messrs. Tappen, Patrick and Brown, heads of the freight and passenger departments of that “ Great connecting link,” the Chicago and Northwestern Railroad, who tarried a few days at Council Bluffs and Omaha, as they were passing on their way to Denver, for the pur- 56 WESTERN INCIDENTS. pose of establishing offices, and making other business arrangements in connection with their road, and its far- reaching Western tributaries. As they started westward, on the morning of the 17th October, in a special train laden with demijohns, cases, canned meats, fruits and pickles, rolls of buffalo robes and blankets; together with almost any number of breech- loading carbines and revolvers, one would think that they expected to spend at least six months among savage beasts and Indians, before returning to the land of civilization. PARTING SPEECH OF MR. TAPPEN. When the train was about starting from the depot at Omaha, Mr. Tappen was loudly called upon by his friends who remained behind, for a few parting words. Upon which he promptly made his appearance upon the rear platform, raised his hat, bowed gracefully to the audience, steadied himself by a firm hold upon the railing, and spoke substantially as follows: “ Weriow-Crrzens: But a few short years ago, the spot on which my foot now rests, was part and parcel of a howling wilderness”—just here, the sudden starting of the train so disturbed the spot upon which the distin- guished speaker’s foot was resting, that he came near being thrown overboard; but, on recovering himself instantly, he proceeded with great composure to say: “During a somewhat short but eventful life, I have held every position, from”—at this point, the train being fairly under way, it became quite difficult to hear distinctly, except the closing sentence, which was as follows : “T leave the Great connecting link in your hands, while I proceed to swing around the’—the remainder of this WESTERN INCIDENTS. 57 happy speech was lost ; but the speaker evidently alluded to a curve in advance of the train. The train soon disappeared, but the telegraph wires kept us continually posted, during the day, as to the pro- gress of the party; and the nature of the despatches was such as to afford the most gratifying evidence of the expansive powers of the air and scenery west of the Missouri River, particularly when a party, like our friends, are borne for the first time with railroad speed along the broader expanse of the great Platte Valley, on their westward course to the Rocky Mountains. The following specimens have fortunately been pre- served : Fremont, 10:12 a. m—“ Green leaves grew where my hand now rests. Wild beasts roamed unmolested by the hand of man. More to come.” North Benn, 10:35 a.u.—*The shrill whoop of the gavage alone broke the solitude and silence of nature. It was at this epoch of our nation’s existence, that two solitary horsemen might have been seen—To be con- tinued.” CotumBts, 11:25 a. ma—“ Or words to that effect. Con- clusion.” ANTICIPATED ARRIVAL OF THE GREAT EXCURSION. By far the most exciting event of all, however, was the official announcement received on Thursday, October 18 that the great Pacific Railroad Excursion had reached Chicago, on its way westward from New York, and that it might be expected to arrive at Omaha on the following Monday morning. The worthy Mayor immediately convened the Com- mon Council; and the President of the Board of Trade 3* 58 . WESTERN INCIDENTS. called that august body together at once, for the purpose of conferring upon the subject, and giving a proper re- ception to the distinguished strangers. It was finally arranged that the freedom of the city should be tendered to the excursionists; and that a grand reception ball and supper should be given them at the Hernden House, on the evening of their arrival in town. ANTECEDENTS AND OBJECTS OF THE EXCURSION. Before speaking further of this great excursion, it may be well to refer briefly to its objects, as well as to its im- mediate antecedents. The public generally, is so ignorant respecting the identity of the many railroads in this country, which bear in some form the appellation of Pacijic, that I will take the liberty of inserting the following letter written upon that subject, and published for general information, more than a year ago, in the National Intelligencer, at Wash- ington. The status of many of the roads referred to has un- doubtedly become changed somewhat since the letter was written ; but itis believed that it will be found substan- tially correct for our present purpose :— UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD. Confused Ideas as to its Locality—Nine Different Pacific Railroads— Location and Present Condition of Hach—Giovernment Aid, ete. OrFIcE oF THE Unton Pactric Rartroap Company, No. 13 Wiitram Srreet, New Yorr, February 10, 1866. t To the Editors of the National Intelligencer :-— So much doubt and confusion appears to exist in the minds of the people, and possibly of some members of Congress, in relation to the WESTERN INCIDENTS. locality, present condition, and future prospects of the Union Pacific Railroad, that, with your permission, I will endeavor to throw some light upon the subject. There are, at the present time, no less than nine different projects, or organizations, known as Pacific railroads—and, consequently, when allusion is made to either one of these, it is erroneously, and some- times quite injuriously, applied to the one great trunk line chartered by Congress for the purpose of constructing a railroad through the entire Territories of the United States, and thus connecting the rail- roads of the extreme Eastern and Western States in one continuous line across the continent. . In speaking of these different organizations, I shall refer to them in their proper geographical order, from the east and south to the west and north; and shall endeavor to confine myself to a simple and con- cise statement of facts : 1. The Pacific Railroad of Missouri, a State organization, extending from the city of St. Louis to the east line of Kansas, at or near Kansas City, a distance of 283 miles. This road is now completed and in operation. 2. The Union Pacific Railway, Eastern Division, extending from the western terminus of the Missouri Pacific Railroad, at the eastern - boundary of Kansas, to an intersection with the Union Pacific Rail- road, “ at a point on the one-hundredth meridian of longitude west from Greenwich, between the south margin of the Republican River and the north margin of the valley of the Platte River, in the Territory of Nebraska, at a point to be fixed by the President of the United States after actual surveys.” The total distance is about 380 miles. This is also a State organization, and was formerly known as the “ Leaven- worth, Pawnee, and Western Railroad Company of Kansas ;” but the Company, in 1863, assumed the name of “ Union Pacific Railway, Eastern Division,” by which title it has since been recognized. This Company receives the same amount and kind of aid from the General Govern- ment as the Union Pacific Railroad, which, to avoid repetition, will be described in connection with thatroad. The laying of track was com- menced in 1863, since which sixty-two miles have been completed, and the road is now open for use to Topeka, the capital of the State. This Company is also required to “ build a railroad from the city of Leavenworth, to unite with the main stem at or near the city of Lawrence ; but to aid in the construction of said branch the said Com- 60 WESTERN INCIDENSS. pany shall not be entitled to any bonds.” This branch will be com- pleted carly next scagon. 3. The Central or Atchison Branch of the Union Pacific Railroad, extending from Atchison, on the Missouri river, in Kansas, to an in- tersection with the Union Pacific Railway, action Division, in the val- ley of the Kansas River or Republican Fork. This oes by virtue of an assignment from the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad Company, receives the same aid from the Government as the Union Pacific Rail- road for the first one hundred miles west of the Missouri River. The grading and mechanical work upon the first section of twenty miles is substantially completed, the iron on hand, and track-laying com- menced. The second section of twenty miles is under contract to be completed by the first of May next. There is now a railroad connec- tion from the east, via the Hannibal and St. Joseph, and Platte Country railroads, to a point on the east bank of the Missouri opposite Atchison. 4, The Union Pacific Railroad, extending from the western boundary of the State of Iowa, at Omaha, “to the western boundary of the Territory of Nevada, there to connect with the line of the Central Pacific Railroad Company of California,” a distance of about sixteen hundred miles. The capital stock is one hundred million dollars. The organization is entirely the creation of Congress, and being located within the Territories, is not subject to any State or municipal regulations. To aid inits construction the Government grants “ every alternate section of public land, designated by odd numbers, to the amount of ten alternate sections per mile, on each side of said railroad on the line thereof, and within the limits of twenty miles on each side of said road, not sold, reserved, or otherwise set aside by the United States, and to which a pre-emption or homestead claim may not have attached at the time the line of said road is definitely fixed.” The law further provides that “said company shall designate the general route of said road, as near as may be, and shall file a map of the same in the Department of the Interior, whereupon the Secretary of the Interior shall cause the lands within twenty-five miles of said desig- nated route or routes to be withdrawn from pre-emption, private entry, and sale; and when any portion of said route shall be finally located, the Secretary of the Interior shall cause the said lands herein- before granted to be surveyed and set off as fast as may be necessary for the purposes herein named. WESTERN INCIDENTS. 61 To aid further in the construction of this road, the law provides that as certain portions therein specified are fully completed and equipped, the Secretary of the Treasury shall “issue to said Company bonds of the United States of one thousand dollars each, payable in thirty years after date, bearing six per centum per annum interest (said interest payable semi-annually), which interest may be paid in United States Treasury notes, or any other money or currency which the United States have or shall declare lawful money and a legal tender,” as fol- lows: “For three hundred miles of said road, most mountainous and difficult of construction, to wit: One hundred and fifty miles west- wardly ffom the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains, and one hun- dred and fifty miles eastwardly from the western base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, said points to be fixed by the President of the United States,” forty-eight thousand dollars per mile ; and between the sections last named of one hundred and fifty miles each, thirty-two thousand dollars per mile; and for the entire balance of the road, sixteen thousand dollars per mile. These bonds constitute a second mortgage upon the whole line of the railroad, rolling stock, and fixtures, and “one-half of the compensation for services rendered for the Gov- ernment shall be required to be applied to the payment of the bonds issued by the Government.” The Company is also authorized to “issue their first mortgage bonds to an amount not exceeding the amount of the bonds of the United States, and of even tenor and date, time of maturity, rate and character of interest,” with the Government bonds, “and the lien of the United States shall be subordinate to ” these first mortgage bonds; and it is also authorized to issue these bonds “to the extent of one hundred miles in advance of a continu- ous completed line of construction.” The work of construction has been materially hindered during the past year by the delay of the President of the United States in deciding upon a question of location near the eastern terminus. The laying of track was commenced in July last, and forty miles were completed and examined by the Government commissioners on the 6th instant. Since that time the track has been extended to Fremont, fifty-five miles from Omaha. The grading of the first one hundred and ten miles is now completed, and arrange- ments are perfected for opening one hundred miles to the public before the 4th of July next. The progress of the work is very much retarded and embarrassed by the want of an easterly railroad connection; but itis hoped that this will be remedied during the present year. 62 WESTERN INCIDENTS. Large and commodious brick shops, engine and station houses have been constructed by the Company at the Eastern terminus of the road, and these will be repeated as often as may be necessary to operate the road successfully. The surveys of several routes have been extended ag far west ag the meridian of Salt Lake City, and of one line to the Humboldt Val- ley ; but the location cannot be regarded as definitely fixed beyond the first two hundred miles. 5. The Sioux City and Pacific Railroad, extending from Sioux City, Towa, on the Missouri River, to a connection with the main line of the Union Pacific Railroad, “said point of junction to be fixed by the President of the United States, not further west than the one hun- dredth meridian of longitude aforesaid, and on the same terms and con- ditions as provided in this act” (approved July 1, 1862) “for the con- struction of the Union Pacific Railroad.” This branch was originally to have been constructed by the Union Pacific Railroad Company ; but the act of July 1, 1862, was amended by the act of July 2, 1864, so as to release the Union Pacific Company, and authorize the Presi- dent of the United States to designate a Company to construct it upon the same terms and conditions as were previously granted to the Union Pacific Company, with an additional grant of “alternate sections of land for ten miles in width on each side of the same along the whole length of said branch.” The President, on the 24th December, 1864, designated the “Sioux City and Pacific Railroad Company” for this purpose. The map designating the gen- eral route of the road was filed in the Department of the Interior, June 27,1865. Nothing further has been done towards its construction. 6. The Central Pacific Railroad of California, extending “from the Pacific coast, at or near San Francisco or the navigable waters of the Sacramento River, to the eastern boundary of California.” This is a State organization, but it receives from the General Government the same aid as the Union Pacific Railroad. It has also been authorized by Congress to extend its road one hundred and fifty miles eastward into Nevada, in case the Union Pacific Railroad is not completed to the State line when it arrives there. This Company has transferred to the Western Pacific Railroad Company the right to construct the road to the Pacific coast, and is now engaged in the construction of the line easterly from Sacramento to the State line, a distance of 164 miles. The laying of the track was commenced in June, 1864, and WESTERN INCIDENTS. 56 miles of road have since been completed and accepted by the Gov- ernment. Seventeen additional miles of grading are now completed, and the balance of the grading is well under way. The line, as estab- lished by the Company, intersects the easterly boundary of California in the valley of the Truckee River. 7. The Western Pacific Railroad of California, extending from Sac- ramento to San Francisco, by way of San José, a distance of one hun- dred and seventy miles. This is also a State organization, and receives, through an assignment from the Central Pacific Railroad Company: which has received the sanction of Congress, the same aid from the Government as the Union and Central Pacific Companies. The line from San José to San Francisco, a distance of fifty miles, is com- pleted. From San José eastward, twenty miles are about completed, and the iron for the balance of the distance to Sacramento is already purchased and going forward. The grading is entirely out of the way. 8. The Southern Pacific Railroad of California, extending from the bay of San Francisco to the port of San Diego, and thence to the east line of the State of California, a distance of about four hundred and twenty miles. Capital $30,000,000. This is a State organization, and receives no aid from the General Government. Very little, if any, work has been done up to the present time. 9. The Northern Pacific Railroad Company, extending from the head of Lake Superior to Puget Sound, “with a branch via the valley of the Columbia River to a point at or near Portland, in the State of Ore- gon.” Capital stock $100,000,000. This Company was chartered by Congress in 1864. The Company receives from the Government “every alternate section of public land, not mineral, designated by odd numbers, to the amount of twenty alternate sections per mile on each side of said railroad line as said Company may adopt, through the Territories of the United States, and ten alternate sections per mile on each side of said railroad whenever it passes through any State, and whenever on the line thereof the United States have full title, not reserved, sold, granted, or otherwise appropriated, and free from pre-emption or other claims or rights at the time the line of said road is definitely fixed, and a plan thereof filed in the office of the Commissioner of the General Land Office ; and whenever prior to that time any of said sections or parts of sections shall have been granted, sold, reserved, occupied by homestead settlers, or pre-empted or 64 WESTERN INCIDENTS. otherwise disposed of, other lands shall be selected by said Company in lieu thereof, under the direction of the Secretary of the Interior, in alternate sections and designated by odd numbers, not more than ten miles beyond the limits of said alternate sections.” Tam not aware that anything further than an organization of the Company has been effected up to the present time. In addition to the above it may be proper to mention the old organization known as the Southern Pacific Railroad, which was in- tended to run from Memphis to San Diego, about which very little has been heard for some years. S. SEYMOUR, Consulting Engineer, U. P. R. R. GENERAL SIMPSON’S SPEECH. The following speech of General Simpson, President of the Board of Government Commissioners (copied from the Chicago Tribune), delivered at Chicago, on the return of the excursionists, will also be found to contain much interesting and valuable, as well as later information upon this subject :-— Mr. Mayor, Lapizs anp GENTLEMEN :— The interests of the Pacific Railroad have been ably pre- sented by the gentlemen who have preceded me ; but as there are some points upon which they have not touched, and it may be expected of me, as the President of the Board of Com- missioners on the road and its branches east of the Rocky Mountains; and the officer to whom has been intrusted by the President of the United States the charge of the road and its branches, so far as concerns the General Government, to say something in this regard, I trust I shall be pardoned for making the following statement :— MAGNITUDE OF THE ENTERPRISE. Preliminary, however, to this, I cannot but generally descant upon the magnitude and importance of this great en- terprise. If we take a railroad map of our country, we WESTERN INCIDENTS. 65 cannot but be struck with the net of railroads which traverse our domain on the east side of the Missouri River, from Maine to Florida. This bird’s-eye view immediately evolves the immense traffic, social comfort, and political homogeneity and harmony which these roads must develop and enforce ; and not only so, it also discloses the wonderful progress which has been made in bringing the different sections of the por- tion of our country alluded to, in close bonds of affiliation, and therefore of Christian love and sympathy. But still farther scanning the map of our extended country, we find a most important portion of our domain along the Pacific coast, already filled with a teeming population, and capable, agriculturally, mineralogically, commercially, mili- tarily, politically and socially, of still farther development, so remotely situated, with regard to the portion on the east side of the Missouri River—so isolated by distance and barriers of mountain chains and extended deserts, that it at once suggests the deficiency and the absolute requirements of the extension of our railroad system, so as to bring this portion of our republic into closer and more sympathetic relation with the other; and thus to bind all portions of our country in one homogeneous organism of political, military, social, com- mercial and Christian nationality and power. This is to be effected by the Pacific Railroad and branches ; and because of their infinite importance in this respect, their completion ought to be pushed forward by the people and Gov- ernment with the greatest possible dispatch. CONGRESSIONAL ACTION. The acts of Congress bearing on this important project are chiefly the act of July 1, 1862, the act of July 2, 1864, and the act of July 3, 1866. These acts, as they now stand, author- ize the construction of one main line, commencing at Omaha, Nebraska, the initial point fixed agreeadly to law by the late President Lincoln, and extending westward in the most direct WESTERN INCIDENTS. and practicable line, till it meets the Central Pacific Railroad of California, extending eastward from San Francisco, These two Companies are unrestricted in the extent of the road they shall build, except that they are required to locate and join their respective portions in the most direct and practicable manner, THE UNION PACIFIC ROAD. The Union Pacific has been constructed and accepted by the President of the United States, west from Omaha to the two hundred and seventieth mile post, or to a point seventy- seven miles west from Fort Kearny ; and the probabilities are that by the setting in of winter there will be about three hundred and ten miles of the road finished ; which will carry it beyond the Forks of the Platte, and embrace the bridge now near completion over the North Fork. The surveys for this road have extended across the Rocky and Wasatch Mountains to the valley of the Humboldt ; and lines of routes have been found which will not require a grade, at any point, over one hundred and sixteen feet per mile, the maximum grade of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and the limit fixed by law. THE CENTRAL PACIFIC ROAD. The Central Pacific of California, on the 6th of the present month, had been graded from Sacramento eastwardly to Cisco, a distance of ninety-three miles, or to a point within twelve miles of the summit of the Sierra Nevada; and the track has been laid from Sacramento, eighty miles of that dis- tance, and the cars are running thereon. The surveys show a perfectly feasible route over the Sierra Nevada, with maximum grades within the limits prescribed by the law ; and as they show a very easy line along the valley of the Humboldt, not requiring a grade over fifty-three feet to the mile, the Presi- dent of the Company, Leland Stanford, Esq., confidently antici- pates that they will be able to reach Great Salt Lake during the year 1870. WESTERN INCIDENTS. BRANCH ROADS. The branch roads west from the Missouri river joining the Union Pacific Railroad, are, commencing at the most northern point and running southwardly, first :— THE SIOUX CITY AND PACIFIC RAILROAD, extending from Sioux City westwardly, and to join in the most practicable and direct manner at such part of the Union Pacific Railroad as the Company may select. Surveys, I have been informed by Mr. John J. Blair, the President of this Company, have been made for this road, but as they have not yet been officially reported to the Government, the final location of the route has not yet been established, and nothing further remains to be said than that no work has yet been done on this branch. Next, THE EXTENSION OF THE BURLINGTON AND MISSOURI RIVER RAILROAD, : which by law is to cross the Missouri River south of the mouth of the Platte, and, according to the map filed in the Interior Department, has been located by the Company as far as Kearny City, along the south side of the Platte, and getting into the Platte Valley again within eighteen or twenty miles east of Fort Kearny. The road is to join the Union Pacific, not further west than the one hundredth meridian of west longitude. No work has been commenced on this branch. Next, THE EXTENSION OF THE HANNIBAL AND ST. JOSEPH RAILROAD, BY THE WAY OF ATCHISON, which the Company have, by law, the option of connecting in the most direct and feasible way with the Union Pacific, not farther west than the one hundredth meridian, or the Union Pacific, Eastern Division, without restriction to dis- tance. Twenty miles of this road west from Atchison has 68 WESTERN INCIDENTS. been constructed and accepted by the President of the United States, and another section of twenty miles is represented to be nearly ready for examination by the Commissioners. The next branch is THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY, EASTERN DIVISION, which starts from the mouth of the Kansas River, on its south side, and has been located up the valley of the Kansas River as far as Fort Riley, and thence across to and up the valley of the Smoky Hill Fork, as far as the western boundary of Kansas ; thence it is to go to Denver City, and join the Union Pacific at a point not farther than fifty miles west from the meridian of Denver. This road has been accepted by the President of the United States for a distance of one hundred and thirty miles west from the initial point at the mouth of the Missouri River, and has been represented recently as com- pleted and the cars running thereon as far as Fort Riley, a distance of one hundred and thirty-six miles. GOVERNMENT AID. The Union Pacific and the Central Pacific Railroad of Cali- fornia, on the completion of sections of not less than twenty miles of their roads, will be alike entitled to bonds respec- tively from the Government to the extent of $16,000 per mile from their initial points to the east line of the Rocky Moun- tains, and to the west base of the Sierra Nevada, thence across the Rocky Mountains to the west base of the same for a distance of one hundred and fifty miles, and across the Sierra Nevada to the east base of the same for a distance of one hundred and fifty miles, they respectively got three times $16,000, or $48,000 per mile. Between the western base of the Rocky Mountains and the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, they will be entitled totwice $16,000, or $32,000 per mile. WESTERN INCIDENTS. 69 Both these Companies will, by law, be entitled to ten alter- nate odd sections of land on each side of their road, not sold, reserved, or otherwise disposed of by the United States, and to which a pre-emption or homestead claim may not have been attached. The Union Pacific Railway, Eastern Division, (properly the Southern Division), agreeably to the act of July 3, 1866, receives, on the completion of sections of at least twenty miles of its road, $16,000 per mile, for a distance from its initial point at the mouth of the Kansas River, as far westward as would be equal to the length of its road, had it, according to the act of July 1, 1862, joined the Pacific Railroad on the one hundredth meridian of longitude, between the north bank of the Platte River, and the south bank of the Republican Fork of the Kansas River. This road is entitled, in addition, on the completion of sections of not less than twenty miles of its road, to ten alternate odd sections of land on each side of its line, subject to the reservations, as in the case of the Union Pacific and Central Pacific Railroad before stated. The Atchison and Pike’s Peak Railroad, or Pacific extension of the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad, on the completion of sections of not less than twenty miles, gets bonds of $16,000 and ten alternate sections of land on each side of the road, per mile, but only for a distance of one hundred miles west from Atchison. The Sioux City Pacific Railroad under the act of July 2, 1864, is entitled to bonds of $16,000 per mile on the comple- tion of sections of not less than twenty miles, for a distance from the initial point at Sioux City, not greater than it would have been entitled to under the act of July 1, 1862, which re- stricted its junction with the Union Pacific, at a point not farther west than the one hundredth meridian of west longi- tude. This road also gets land, but only to the extent of five alternate sections within a limit of ten miles on each side of the road, with the same restrictions as stated in the case of the roads already mentioned. 70 WESTERN INCIDENTS. The Pacific extension of the Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, by the act of July 2, 1864, is not entitled to bonds, but to lands to the extent of ten alternate odd sections on each side of its line of route. THE COMPLETION OF THE ROADS. Having thus given the chief points of the law with regard to the Union Pacific Railroad and branches, I would recall your attention to the anticipation confidently entertained by Mr. Stanford, the President of the Central Pacific Company of California, that they will, even under the present law, be able to reach Great Salt Lake during the year 1870. General Dix, the President of the Union Pacific Railroad Company, has informed me that they will meet the Central Pacific, of California in five years; and, thus, according to both the gentlemen named, we may expect the completion of the road in 1871, or six years before the Ist of July, 1877—the limit fixed by the law. It is submitted, however, that as the work in the Rocky Mountains and Utah will be very heavy, there should be some legislation which will enable the Union Pacific Rail- way Company to work in advance of their completed line, at least eight hundred miles ; so that the Company could now be employing the Mormons in Utah, who, with the “ Gentiles,” are willing and anxious to take contracts for grading the road, getting out the ties, and making the necessary iron. The act of July 3, 1866, enables the Union Pacific, and Cen- tral Pacific of California, to work three hundred miles in advance of their continuous line ; but while this privilege is probably sufficient for the California Company, on account of the nature of the country through which it will have to con- struct its road, it is not so for the Union Pacific, whose diffi- cult portions stretch out for so great a distance west of their present work. It is hoped that this matter will receive the attention of Congress at the earliest possible moment. WESTERN INCIDENTS. val CONFUSION OF NAMES. There is another item of legislation required, which has grown out of the confusion that exists with regard to the names of the roads, which should be attended to. The branch road, which starts from the mouth of the Kansas River, is called the Union Pacific Railway, Eastern Division. The con- sequence is, that though this road is being made by an entirely different Company from the Union Pacific Railroad Company, which is constructing its road all the way through from Omaha, till it meets the Central Pacific of California, the credit or discredit which attaches to the one naturally attaches to the other, to the enhancement or depreciation of its bonds ; and already I am informed there have been consid- erable serious misapprehensions existing on this account, to the advantage or detriment of one or the other Company. This liability to error can only be obviated by Congress changing the name of the Union Pacific Railway, Eastern Division, so that it may not by any possibility be confounded with the Union Pacific Railroad, with which it is in no way pecuniarily connected. A sufficiently distinctive name would be the Kansas River Branch of the Union Pacific Railroad. BENEFITS TO CHICAGO. Thus, Mr. Mayor, -ladies and gentlemen, I have at some length given you a description of the Union Pacific Railroad and branches, with the provisions of law relating thereto ; but I cannot close my remarks without pointing out to you the great benefits which must inure to your city from the com- pletion of this great highway of nations. Standing as you do pre-eminently related to the great lakes of the North ; and by your railroads with all portions of the United States on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, with the prestige of your past and present growth ; and immediately on the great air- line route across the continent from New York, you cannot but become the great entre-dépét of trade and travel of the U2 WESTERN INCIDENTS. world ; and therefore without doubt one of the ereatest cities of the world—second on this continent to probably only the metropolis of New York. Adding my thanks to those of the gentlemen who have preceded me for the very kind and munificent reception which the Union Pacific Railroad excursion party has re- ceived at your hands, I will here close my already, I fear, too extended remarks. The laws of Congress require that the first one hundred miles of the Union Pacific Railroad, west of the Missouri River, shall be completed on or before the 27th June, 1866 ; and that it shall be completed to the one-hundreth meridian of longitude, a distance of one hundred and forty-seven miles further, at the rate of one hundred miles per year thereafter ; or, say, by the middle of December, 1867. The Railroad Company however, had, in utter disre- gard of all precedents in railroad construction, completed the first one hundred miles on June 2d, 1866, and had laid the track across the hundredth meridian on the 5th October of the same year. In fact, the Company had become so regardless of these precedents, and of the slow progress contemplated by Congress, that it had allowed Mr. Reed, the Engineer in charge of construction, to do the grading, construct the bridges, and lay the superstructure, all complete, wpon two hundred and forty-five miles of road in one hundred and eighty-two working days; averaging more than one and one-third miles per day. Tt was therefore deemed expedient and proper, by the managers of this great national enterprise, that the com- pletion of the first division, extending from the Missouri River, at Omaha, to the one-hundredth meridian of longi- WESTERN INCIDENTS. tude, within considerably less than a year from the time required by law, should not only be suitably advertised to the world, but satisfactorily verified by the proper officers of the Government, and members of Congress. Invitations were accordingly extended to the President of the United States, and members of his Cabinet; also to all the members of Congress, Foreign Ministers, mili- tary and naval commanders, and to the principal railroad men and leading capitalists throughout the country, to. join in a grand excursion from New York City to the one- hundredth meridian, in the Great Platte Valley, a dis- tance of about seventeen hundred miles, and more than half way across the continent. No railroad excursion of similar character and magni- tude had ever been projected in this, or any other coun- try ; and the parties most interested were, of course, un- tiring in their efforts to make it a complete success. The different lines of connecting railroads, steamboats, and stages between New York and Omaha, were at once placed at the disposal of the Company by their liberal and enterprising managers, who seemed to vie with each other in their efforts to aid the Union Pacific Railroad Company in its great and somewhat novel undertaking. Very much to the regret of the excursionists, as well as the receptionists along the route, General John A. Dix, the President of the Company, was prevented from accompanying the party, by receiving from the Presi- dent of the United States, the appomtment of Minister to France, just previous to its departure from New York. The charge of the excursion therefore devolved upon Mr. Thomas C. Durant, Vice-President, and Messrs. Sherman, Cook, Dillon, Lambard, and Duff, Directors ; assisted by Mr. B. F. Bunker, Assistant Secretary of the 4 74 WESTERN INCIDENTS. Company, Col. N. A. Gestner and Mr. E. Simmonds, from the New York ofiice. DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORE. The party, consisting of about one hundred persons, fully supplied with everything that could be improvised or thought of for its comfort and enjoyment, left New York on Monday evening, October 15th, by way of the New Jersey, and Pennsylvania Central Railroads, to Pittsburgh ; and the Pittsburgh Fort Wayne and Chi- cago Railroad to Chicago, where they arrived in high spirits on the following Wednesday evening. Considerable accessions of invited guests were made to the party on the way to, and at, Chicago. Messrs. Springer Harbaugh, of Pittsburgh, and Jesse L. Wil- liams, of Fort Wayne, Government Directors of the road, accompanied the excursion to Chicago; but, as both these gentlemen had just returned from a somewhat extended inspection of the road, they were very reluc- tantly excused from proceedizig farther with the party. Several of the excursionists preferred to remain a day or two at Chicago; and then proceed over the Chicago and Northwestern Railroad, in company with the offi- cers Of that Road, to Dennison; and from thence to Omaha by stage. But by far the largest portion, accom- panied by the Great Western Light Guard Band, started from Chicago on Thursday morning, October 18th, by way of the Chicago Burlington and Quincy, and the Hanni- bal and Saint Joseph Railroads, and arrived at St. Joseph on the following Friday evening. Here they were met by Mr. H. M. Hoxie, the General Western Agent of the Union Pacific Railroad, to whose WESTERN INCIDENTS. 15 care had been assigned the transportation on the Mis- souri River, a distance of two hundred and fifty miles, by river, from St. Joseph to Omaha; and also the subsistence of the entire party until its return to Saint Joseph. Two of the largest class Missouri River packets—the Denver, Captain Waddell, and the Colorado, Captain Hooper—with an additional band of music on board, were in readiness to receive the party on its arrival at Saint Joseph; and the excursionists soon found them- selves, with bands playing and colors flying, steaming up the great Missouri River, which, for many hundred miles of its turbid, snaggy, barry, winding course, forms the western boundary of the Atlantic portion of the United States. The journey from Saint Joseph to Omaha was accom- plished, without serious accident or detention, in less than forty-eight hours; and the party reached the eastern terminus of the Union Pacific Railroad on Monday morn- ing, the 22d of October, having been on the way from New York a little less than one week. Some idea of the manner. in which the excursionists were subsisted under the supervision of Professor Hoxie, while passing up the Missouri River, may be formed by a perusal of the following bills of fare on board the steamers -— 76 WESTERN INCIDENTS. COMPLIMENTARY EXCURSION TO THE Chief Owners of all Railroads in the Wnited States, ON BOARD THE SPLENDID SOK AMG GOLOR ABO, J. D. HOOPER, Com. | O. M. BROWN, Clerk. R. FORD, General Superintendent Packet Line. BILL OF FARE. STEAMER COLORADO, October 20, 1866. SOUP. Chicken Gumbo, Oyster. FISH, Baked Pike, Oyster Sauce. Boiled Trout, a-la-Normande. BOILED. Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. Ham. Tongue, Turkey, Oyster Sauce, Corned Beef and Cabbage. Chicken, Egg Sauce. Beef, a-la-mode. ROAST. Turkey, Giblet Sauce. Saddle Mutton. Lamb, Barbecued. Quails on Toast. Spare-Rib of Pork. Ribs of Beef. Sugar-Cured Ham, Champagne Sauce. COLD DISHES. Chicken Salad, Young America style. Boned Turkey, with Jelly. Lobster Salad, Boston style. Leg of Mutton, Boiled. Fresh Tongue, in Belvue. Pressed Corned Beef, Anchovy Salad. Ham. Roast Beef. Buffalo Tongue. WESTERN INCIDENTS. 77 ENTREES. Rabbit, sauti, a-la-Chasseur. Small Patties, a-la-Frangaise. Lamb Chops, a-la-Millionaire, Chicken Livers, fried in paper. Calf’s Head, stuffed, a-la-Royal. Fricassee of Chicken, a-la-Rhine. Escaloped Oysters, Louisiana style. Fillets of Beef, larded, a-la-Soubise. Rice Croquettes, garnished with Preserves. Fried English Cream, flavored with Vanilla, Calf’s Brains, fried in Batter. Veal Cutlets, breaded, Sauce Tortue. Baked Pork and Beans, Boston style. Prairie Chicken, larded Tomato Sauce. Vel au Vent, aux huitres. Petis Pates, garnie a-la-Bechamelle. Croquettes de Volaille. Boudins, a-la-Richelieu. Filet de Boeuf, Sauce Medere. Supreme do Volaille, aux Champignons. Canards Braise, aux Oliaes, Fricandeau de Veau, pica aux Epinards. Pigeons, Braise, a-la-Financiere. Baked Salmon, with Cream. Turkey Giblets, a-la-Valenciene, Antelope Steak, Sherry Wine Sauce. Maccaroni, with Oparmesseur Cheese, Fried Oysters. Tenderloin of Venison, brazed, a-la-Italian. GAME. Grouse, larded, Madeira Sauce. Quails, on Toast. Wild Turkey. Rabbit Pot Pic, Boston style. Antelope, larded, Sauce Bigarade. Bear, brazed, Port Wine Sauce. Saddle of Venison, Cranberry Sauce. Mallard Ducks—Teal Ducks, Malaga Wine Sauce, ‘ VEGETABLES. Oyster Plant. Carrots. Onions, Boiled Potatoes. Parsnips. Turnips. Sour Crout. Cabbage. Hominy. Boiled Rice. Mashed Potatoes. RELISHES. Tomato Catsup. Worcestershire Sauco. Boston Pickles. Beets. Celery. Olives. Cold Slaw. PASTRIES, English Plum Pudding, White Sauce. Rum Jelly. Pound Cake. Jelly Cake, Vanilla Ice Cream. Champagne Jelly. Lady Fingers. Fruit Cake, ornamented. Chocolate Cake. French Kisses. Pyramid of Macaroons. Princess Pyramid. Old Castle. Cranberry Tartlets, Mince Pie. Cream Pie. Apple Pie. Almond Macaroons. Cranberry Tartlets, Swiss Cottage. DESSERTS. Oranges. Pecans. Almonds. Raisins. Merungues aux Peches. Bonbon, a-la-Vanilla, Bavarois Glace, aux Amandes. Grapes. Peaches. Filberts. Gateau Genoise, a-la-Jelée. Charlotte Russe au Marasquin. English Walnut. Apples, Pears. Figs. TEA, COFFEE AND CHOCOLATE. HOURS FOR MEALS: Breakfast.....20. ...+0: Tto9 | Dinner..... ....... seneet Lto 3 Ser aeerceeetarrieeericscrt +» ©’ Clock. 78 WESTERN INCIDENTS. Union Pacific Railroad Excursion—Road open from Omaha to one-hundredth meridian. DINNER BILL OF FARE, itp STEAMER DENVER. October 28, 1866. SOUPS. Purée of Rabbit, a-la-Chantilly. Rice Soup, a-la-Florentine. Trout, a-la-Victoria. Pike, a-la-Chevaliere. ROAST. Beef. Mutton. Pork. Pig. Turkey? Chicken. Duck. : Veal. Grouse. BOILED. Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce, Turkey, Oyster Sauce, Chicken, Supreme Sauce Tongue. Duffield Ham. Corned Beef and Cabbage. VEGETABLES OF THE SEASON. ENTREES. Chicken, a-la-Montmorenci. Chartreuse of Vegetables, garnished with Cushion of Veal, a-la-St. George. Partridges. Timbal of Maccaroni, a-la-Mazarine. Border of Potato Paste, garnished with Tourte of Ox, Palates a-la-Francaise. Calyes Brains a-la-Bavigotte. Croustade of Bread, garnished with Calves Tails a-la-Poulete, GAME. Saddle of Elk, a-la-Bellevue. Teal Ducks, a-la-Royal. Snipes, a-la-Essler. Pheasants, a-la-Monclas, Goose, a-la-Anglaise, COLD DISHES. Boar’s Head, with Aspie Jelly. Italliene Salad, Gelatine Turkey, with Aspie Jelly. Salina of Duck, with Aspie Jelly. RELISHES. Celery. Currant Jelly. Tomato Catsup. French Mustard. Horse Radish, Walnut Catsup. Chow-Chow. Cold Slaw. Pineapple Cheese. Pickles and Olives. Mushroom Catsup. Assorted Sauces. WESTERN INCIDENTS. 79 PASTRY AND DESSERT. PUDDINGS. Cocoanut, Cream Sauce. PIES AND TARTS. Apple. Peach. Damson. Blackberry. TurnoverofApple. Jelly Tarts. « CAKES, Pound. Lady. Fruit. Sponge. CREAMS AND JELLIES, Maraschino Bavarian Cream. Celestine Strawberry Cream, English Cream, with Peaches. Pineapple Jelly. Orange Jelly, a-la-Anglaise. Macedoine of Fruits. DESSERT. Web Meringue, a-la-Parisiene, Nouilles Cake, a-la-Allemande, Cream Fouctt, a-la-Printanier. Strawberries and Cream. Fruit Meringues. Cocoanut Candy. ORNAMENTS. Horn of Plenty. Pyramid of Sponge Candy. Pyramid of Rock Candy, Gothic style. Ornamented Fruit Cake, with Nougat Vase, NUTS AND FRUITS. Grapes. Oranges. Apples. Pears, Prunes. Figs. Raisins. Almonds. English Walnuts, Filborts. Brazil. Peanuts. Pecans. Dates. Pappas. COFFEE, TEA AND CREAM, HOURS FOR MEALS: Breakfast.......... artes FC ORO Men MLD) ti rtra eo 1?epsteretleiteleteeey= eee CONS ORG ayeeertieetiteriterctierinerict 6 o’cloek. WILLIAM DWYER, Steward. 80 WESTERN INCIDENTS. RECEPTION AND BALL AT OMAHA. The authorities of Omaha were on the alert at an early hour for the purpose of welcoming and entertaining the distinguished party. Governor Saunders, Secretary Pad- “ dock, Mayor Miller, and Vice-President Patrick, of the Board of Trade, soon made their appearance upon the steamers, and welcomed the excursionists in appropriate speeches, tendering them the freedom of the City and Territory ; and inviting them to a reception ball at the Hernden in the evening ; all which were duly responded to and accepted by Senator Patterson, Government Director Sherman, and others of the party. Carriages were in waiting, to convey such of the num- ber as desired to leave the boats, either about the town, to the hotels, or to the residences of several of the pri- vate families, which had been most liberally thrown open for the occasion. . That portion of the party which had crossed the State of Iowa by land, including Mr. Perry H. Smith, the Vice-President, dnd Mr. George L. Dunlap, the General Superintendent of the Chicago and Northwestern Railroad, Messrs. Turner, Ayer, Bowen, Crerer, and sev- eral others from Chicago, with the most important addi- tion of Professor Kinsley, the justly celebrated caterist of Chicago, and a strong detachment of his assistants, hav- ing re-joined the party in the morning, were assigned to quarters on the Railroad Company’s steamer EHikhorn, which lay at the landing immediately across the bows of the steamer Denver. It should here be recorded for the benefit of all future historians, as well as the “rest of mankind,” that, on this memorable day, and upon this veritable steamer Elkhorn, the famous, and never-to-be-forgotten Elkhorn Club was WESTERN INCIDENTS. 81 duly organized and established upon a firm, and it is to be hoped an enduring basis. The excursionists, with their insignia of ribbons and rosettes, were soon to be seen in all parts of the town, and among the extensive workshops of the Railroad Company, evidently delighted, and somewhat astonished to find themselves, after a week’s journeying westward from New York, still among people of wealth, refinement, and enterprise. The ball in the evening, however, was perhaps the greatest surprise. The presence of General Phil- lip St. George Cooke, commanding the Department, with his staff; Governor Saunders, Chief-Justice Kel- logg, Secretary Paddock, Senators Thayer and Tipton, all of Nebraska; together with the city authorities, and the wealthy, enterprising, business and professional men of Omaha, with their families, all conduced to make it an | entertainment which would have done credit to any gather- ing of a similar character in Chicago, Washington, or New York. The dance, alternating with the promenade, and a judicious sprinkling of excellent and substantial refresh- ments, occupied the time most pleasantly till the small morning hours, when all separated in the best of spirits, ready for the new and exciting scenes which were to open upon them on the morrow. Here we will leave them for the present, and be pre- pared to accompany them many hundred miles farther westward, towards the never-setting Star of Empire. 4 82 WESTERN INCIDENTS. VIII. MORNING AFTER THE BALL—-THE EXCURSION TRAIN—ALL.ON BOARD —ITS PROGRESS WESTWARD—THE GREAT PLATTE VALLEY— STATIONS ON THE ROAD—-ARRIVAL AT COLUMBUS---CAMPING oUT ON THE PLAINS—INDIAN WAR-DANCE—-MORNING SERENADE— TOWN OF COLUMBUS—-SHAM INDIAN FIGHT—-PRESENTS TO THE INDIANS—CONTRAST BETWEEN CIVILIZED AND SAVAGE LIFE— TRAIN STILL GOING WESTWARD—-WAY-STATIONS ON THE ROAD— ARRIVAL AT CAMP NO. 2-——-MILITARY ENCAMPMENT—-ANOTHER NIGHT IN CAMP—-MORNING EXERCISES—-DEPARTURE OF THE ELK- HORNS—-MORNING NEWSPAPER—LIST OF EXCURSIONISTS—END OF TRACK FOUND AT LAST—-BUFFALO AND ANTELOPE HUNTERS — DINNER IN CAMP—-FIRE-WORKS ON THE PLAINS—THIRD NIGHT IN CAMP—-HOMEWARD BOUND—-ONE HUNDREDTH MERIDIAN— PRAIRIE-DOG CITY—-FIRE ON THE PLAINS—-RETURN TO OMAHA— DEPARTURE OF EXCURSIONISTS EASTWARD—-ELKHORN CHEERS TO MR. DURANT—-THEIR SAFE ARRIVAL HOME. Omana, NeprasKa, Nov. 5, 1866. MORNING AFTER THE BALL. The elegant entertainment given by the citizens of Ne- braska and Omaha to the excursionists the previous evening, did not prevent them from being astir at a reasonably early hour on Tuesday morning, October 23. Nearly all the gentlemen interested or curious in such matters, visited the extensive depots and machine shops of the Union Pacific Railroad, and expressed their astonishment and delight at the magnitude and adaptation of the works, the construction of which had only been commenced within a year from the present time. WESTERN INCIDENTS. It was a source of very general regret, that Mr. Samuel B. Reed, the efficient General Superintendent of the Road, and Engineer in Charge of Construction, was prevented, by severe illness, from showing any attention to the excursionisis at Omaha, and also from accompa- nying them over the road. His place, however, was admirably filled by Mr. Webster Snyder, his principal assistant, aided by Mr. G. W. Frost, Major L. 8. Bent, General Casement, Mr. A. A. Bean, Mr. Congdon, Mr. Gambol, and the other heads of departments. The Chief Engineer, Gen. G. M. Dodge, who had re- turned from the mountains during the previous week, rendered every assistance in his power ; and the Consult- ing Engineer, by his timely presence, was enabled to relieve the others from much, if not all the heavy standing around. THE EXCURSION TRAIN. The excursion train consisted of nine cars drawn by two of the Company’s powerful locomotives. The mag- nificent Directors’ car, constructed by the Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne and Chicago Railroad Company for this road, was placed in the rear, and devoted to members of Congress, and other distinguished guests, who felt desir- ous of making a critical examination of the road and adjacent country, which they now visited for the first, and possibly the last time. The next car forward, was the celebrated Government, or Lincoln ear, the private property of Mr. Durant, and was therefore devoted principally to his own personal friends and their families. In front of this, were four fine passenger coaches, put up atthe Company’s car-shops at Omaha. These were 84 WESTERN INCIDENTS. devoted to the excursionists generally. One of which, however, was occupied almost exclusively by the Elkhorn Club. Next in order, came the mess, or cooking car, con- structed also at the Fort Wayne shops, and designed as a tender, or companion to the Directors’ car. In front of this was a mail, or express car, conveniently fitted up as a refreshment saloon. And in front of all, or next to the engine, was the baggage and supply car. The en- -gines were profusely decked with flags, and appropriate mottoes ; and the whole outfit presented a most imposing appearance, as it left the Missouri Valley, and steamed away towards the Rocky Mountains. ALL ON BOARD. It had been announced by Mr. Durant that the excur- sion train would start westward at ten in the morning. But the difficulty and delay attending the gathering together of the excursionists, prevented our departure | - till about twelve, when the entire party, enlarged by the civil and military authorities, members of Congress, etc., of the Territory, with their families, started westward in high spirits, to view, most of them for the first time, the great, and almost uninhabited Platte Valley, extend- ing, as it does, in an almost direct westerly course from the Missouri River to the Rocky Mountains, a distance of six hundred miles. The train had been supplied by Mr. Hoxie with every comfort and even luxury that the heart could wish; and soon after starting, the guests were invited to partake of an excellent lunch, served through the cars by the atten- tive waiters. WESTERN INCIDENTS. THE GREAT PLATTE VALLEY, The fine valleys of Mud Creek, and the Papillon, were passed successively, and at about two P.M, the Great Platte Valley opened to the view, and elicited an excla- mation of wonder and admiration from all who now saw it for the first time. The tram—which had been ordered by Mr. Durant to proceed at a slow rate of speed, so that the excursionists could obtain a satisfactory view, not only of the surround- ing beautiful country, but of the road and structures, as they passed—after halting at the fine bridge structures over the Papillon and Elkhorn Rivers, stopped a short time at the Fremont and North Bend stations, in order to give the guests an opportunity of examining the commo- dious depot buildings, water stations, etc., which had been constructed by the Company at intervals of fifteen or twenty miles along the line. ARRIVAL AT COLUMBUS. The train finally reached Columbus, the proposed end of the first day’s journey, a little after night-fall, and here a new surprise awaited the party. The train was halted immediately in front of a bril- liantly illuminated encampment, which covered several acres of beautiful ground situated a few rods northward of the Columbus station buildings, and so arranged as to afford comfortable accommodations for all who wished to leave the cars and enjoy the novelty of a night’s sleep in camp. Soon after our arrival, supper was announced by the ubiquitous Hoxie, and the party found themselves com- fortably seated in a large tent, and urged to partake of 86 WESTERN INCIDENTS. substantials and luxuries, which might well have vied with those found upon the tables of our Eastern hotels, The irrepressible Elkhorns were seen and heard every- where, adding life and exhilaration to the Scene; and thus an hour or two were passed in social intercourse until the evening’s entertainment was announced. INDIAN WAR-DANCE. This entertainment consisted of a war-dance, at a short distance from the encampment, executed by a large delegation of Pawnee braves, under the immediate super- vision of that celebrated Jndianist, Professor Taylor, who had most kindly volunteered his valuable services for the occasion ; and of all the wild and hideous yells, grotesque shapes and contortions that have ever been witnessed by a civilized assemblage in the night-time upon the plains this was most certainly the climax. The light of the moon, aided slightly by that of a dim camp fire, was barely sufficient to enable the spectators to distinguish the features and grotesque costumes of the savage per- formers ; and the congregation of lady and gentlemen spectators were only too glad to know that the Indians were entirely friendly, and catering only for the amuse- ment of the company, instead of being enemies, dancing and gloating over their scalpless bodies. This amuse- ment being ended, the waning moon and camp fires admonished the excursionists that the hour for retire- ment and rest had arrived. Each individual, family, and party, found comfortable tents allotted to them, well stored with soft hay mattres- ses, buffalo robes, and blankets. Without the least dis- order or confusion, therefore, all were soon dreaming of the wondrous novelty of the situation ; and nothing but WESTERN INCIDENTS. 87 the howling of the distant wolf, or the subdued mutter- ings from the Indian camp, broke the stillness of this first night on the plains. A MORNING SERENADE. Before daylight, however, the more timid of the party were startled from their slumbers by the most unearthly whoops and yells of the Indians, who were tramping about among the camp fires in front of the tents; and many disordered heads, with anxious and inquiring coun- tenances, were to be seen protruding through the aper- tures of the tents, to ascertain whether they were to be immediately roasted alive, or allowed a short time in which to say their prayers, and write a few parting words to their distant friends. All was soon explained however, when it became known that Mr. Durant himself, assisted by General Dodge, Secretary Paddock, and a partially standing, but more generally reclining committee of Hlkhorns, had these wild denizens of the plains, under the most complete con- trol; and were only making them dance and perform this most unique and savage morning serenade for their own particular amusement. Quiet was therefore soon restored, and, after a re- freshing morning nap, the parly was invited to par- take of a sumptuous breakfast before again starting westward. THE TOWN OF COLUMBUS. This goodly town of Columbus should, however, have more than a passing notice. It is situated near the confluence of the Loup Fork River with the Platte, and is surrounded by one of the finest agricultural countries in the world. Being near 88 WESTERN INCIDENTS. the centre of the Territory, it bids fair soon to become the Capital of this embryo State. The large and valuable Pawnee reservation is situated only a few miles from the town, in the Valley of Loup Fork. The Credit-Foncier of America has invested largely in town and suburban property, and promises, through its far-seeing and enterprising managers, to add much to its future growth and prosperity. The tents were soon struck, and the pioneer train wag to be seen steaming far away in the distance; after which, our excursionists leisurely resumed their places in the cars, ready for new surprises and adventures. Many of them little dreamed, however, that one, most rare and novel in its character, was so soon to be realized. SHAM INDIAN FIGHT. The train halted upon a high embankment, in front of the Indian encampment, near the east end of the beauti- ful bridge which spans the Loup Fork river. The Indians, fully dressed and adorned in the war costume of the Pawnees, were in council, many of them evidently in a high state of excitement, gesticulating, whooping and yelling, in the most frantic and unearthly manner. Twenty or thirty horses stood near, ready to be mounted. Soon a band of about thirty mounted Sioux warriors were to be seen emerging stealthily from a thicket, some distance down the river, and making their way cautiously in a circuit, as if to surround the Pawnee camp. Our Pawnees were instantly mounted, and following their stalwart chief, with shrieks and cries of vengeance, to the attack. The shock of meeting was grand and ter- rific. Horses reared and plunged against each other. Indian grappled Indian, and both fell to the ground in WESTERN INCIDENTS. 89 deadly embrace. Rifles, revolvers and arrows were dis- charged apparently with deadly effect. Riderless horses, and horseless riders were to be seen roaming wildly over the plain. And all was confusion and intense excitement, until at length the victorious Pawnees brought their van- quished enemies into camp, amid the most tempestuous -shouts of triumph and exultation. All this had been but a sham Indian fight, between a party of Pawnee warriors, dressed in the costume of the Sioux, and an equal number of their own tribe. What then must be the terrible reality, when these ever hostile tribes meet, as they often do, in deadly conflict ? After the battle had ended, Mr. Durant distributed several hundred dollars’ worth of presents among the Indians and their squaws. And it was most amusing to see these greedy savages exercise all the arts and indianuity of which the most civilized mind is capable, for the purpose of obtaining more than their just and proper share of the spoils. The squaws, too, were most curious in their observation of the peculiar construction of the hoop-skirts and elegant balmorals worn by our lady excursionists; and also tried by every means in their power to enlist the sympathies of these kind-hearted ladies in behalf of the young papooses hanging upon their backs. Perhaps no better illustration could have been given of the extremes of civilized and savage life, standing face to face with each other, than the one now before us. On the one side was the track of the Union Pacific Railroad, upon which stood that great civilizer, the locomotive and train, looking westward over the Loup-Fork bridge, fifteen hundred feet in length; and in the foreground stood the group of excursionists, composed of beauty, intelligence and refinement; while, on the other hand, 90 WESTERN INCIDENTS. were grouped these uncouth savages, many of them almost in their normal state, except for the profuse dis- play of feathers and trinkets which bedecked their per- sons ; low and brutal in their habits, and mentally elevated but slightly, if at all, above the level of the beasts that inhabit this vast and beautiful country with them. But the laws of civilization are such that it must press forward; and it is in vain that these poor ignorant creatures attempt to stay its progress by resisting inch by inch, and foot by foot, its onward march over these lovely plains, where but a few years since, they were “monarchs of all they surveyed.” The locomotive must go onward until it reaches the Rocky Mountains, the Laramie Plains, the great Salt Lake, the Sierra Nevada, and the Pacific Ocean. Lateral roads must also be built, extending in all directions from the main line, as veins from an artery, and penetrating the hunting-grounds of these worse than useless Indian tribes, until they are either driven from the face of the earth ; or forced to look for safety in the adoption of that very civilization and humanity, which they now so savagely ignore and despise. THE TRAIN AGAIN STARTS WESTWARD. When this most interesting exhibition of savage life and. customs was ended, the excursion train started again on its westward course, passing successively the embryo towns of Silver Creek, Lone Tree, Grand Island, Wood River, Kearny, Elm Creek, Plum Creek, and Willow Island. Soon after which, and at about eight p. m., it arrived at the termination of the second day’s journey, a distance of two hundred and seventy-nine miles west of Omaha. WESTERN INCIDENTS. 91 ARRIVAL AT CAMP No. 2. Here, as at Columbus, on the previous evening, a large and brilliantly illuminated encampment had been pre- pared for the reception of the guests. A military encampment had also been established during the previous day by Colonel Mizner, in command of Fort McPherson on the opposite side of the Platte, so near the excursionists’ camp as to preclude any fear from the roaming bands of Indians, which were said to infest this portion of the country. Comfortable quarters were immediately assigned to each one of the party, and very soon thereafter an elegant supper was announced, and partaken of with a gusto, known only to a party whose only sustenance for hours had been the pure bracing air of the illimitable plains. When the excursion party left New York, it was under- stood that it would overtake the western end of the Union Pacific Railroad track, at or about the one hundredth meridian of longitude, some two hundred and forty- seven miles west of Omaha; and that then and there the great celebration would come off, as per invitation and programme. But here we now were, more than thirty miles west of the one hundredth meridian, and no end of track yet visible. Nothing remained for the excursionists, therefore, but to take another night’s rest, and endeavor by an early start on the following morning, to overtake this long-sought-for goal, which to many of the party seemed only a myth, or most perplexing illusion. The spacious headquarters tents, which had been hung about with transparencies, and elegantly decorated with flags for the occasion, were therefore soon bereft of their occupants, who had sought the greater retiracy of the 92 WESTERN INCIDENTS, more private quarters assigned to them; and after the establishment of a telegraph, and printing office, by means of which to communicate with the outer world, the encampment soon became as still as solitude itself, except the measured tramp of the guard or distant sentinel, whose duty it was to see that we were not molested either by friends within or foes from without. MORNING EXERCISES. On the following morning the camp showed signs of early life. Individuals and parties were to be seen look- jng about for the means of ablution and renovation. The famous Elkhorn Club formed in line in front of their quarters, with President Dunlap and Vice-Pres- ident Smith at its head, and followed in proper order by its professional speechists, singists, cheerists, sunists, jokeists, eatists, drinkists, ete., etc., marched in a body to the banks of the Platte River, where each member underwent the pleasant operation of a wholesome outward application of an element to which the inner man had, from the force of circumstances, become a comparative stranger during the few preceding days. After a hearty breakfast, the inquiry became quite gen- eral as to the programme of operations for the day. A bulletin board was therefore placed in front of head- quarters, upon which the following printed announce- ments and orders were soon posted for general informa- tion:— Camp No. 2, U. P. R. R., Burrano Co., Nzs., Thursday, October 25, 1866. | SPECIAL NOTICE. “Colonel N, A. Gestner is announced as Officer-of-the-Day. Office at headquarters tent. Chiefs of all working and fatigue parties will immediately report to him for orders.” By Order. WESTERN INCIDENTS. CITY ORGANIZATION. “A meeting of citizens will be held this day at the Music Stand in the Public Square, at 9 a. m., for the purpose of locating a city, the election of a Mayor, City Council, and the transaction of such other business as may be presented. “Let there be a full attendance.” By Order. TO THE REPRESENTATIVES OF THE PRESS. “The Representatives of the Press are requested to meet at the Press headquarters (left wing of the dining hall), at 10 o’clock this morning.” “ Aw Excursion Train will leave for the End of the Track, at 11 a. mM.” THE BUFFALO HUNT. “ Gentlemen wishing to go ona buffalo or antelope hunt will please report to Captain Hollins, at headquarters. Captain H., with an ex- perienced hunter, will accompany the party. Buffalo are said to be in abundance on the Republican, and. antelope nearer camp. The party will be absent about four days. Horses and ponies will be provided.” DEPARTURE OF THE ELKHORNS. Very much to the disappointment and regret of all parties, a large number of the officers, professors, and leading spirits of the Elkhorn Club were obliged to leave soon after breakfast, in a special train for the east. Pro- fessor Ayer, the goutist of the Club, remained however, and added very much to the hilarity of the party by riding about in an old one-horse wagon, driven by Major Bent ; this method of locomotion being rendered neces- sary, as he remarked, by the unmanageableness of his stuttering feet. The following dispatch was received from the Elkhorn party during the day : “Kary, October 25, 1866. “Dr. T. C. Durant— “Our eyes are filled with unaccustomed tears; and our hearts are bowed with grief. The Elkhorns mourn for their Fawns. “ ELKHORNS.” 94 WESTERN INCIDENTs. The following reply was immediately sent :— TO THE DEPARTED ELKHORNS. «