A twelve Months practical life in Kansas Territory written by an actual settler Preface – among the several reasons which induced the author to write the following work, the first is that now the tide of emigration is comencining again to flow into Kansas wide Fertile most beautiful territory it is of the greatest importance that those who are going forth with their wives children their property yea their all on earth Should have all the information concerning the country to which they are makeing a Pilgrimage leaving behind them the places of their birth the Lovely endearing Localitys of their childhoods mirth joy endeared by many precious remembrances of past events but is highly necessary that information they receive should be of that kind on which they may fully rely. they have so much at Stake that they want truth the whole truth nothing but the truth. the Second inducement for the author to take up his pen on this Subject – is that at the present time there are many persons going about giving Lectures on the Subject who know little or nothing about it who spend a little time riding over parts of the territory make a few observations ask a few questions then come to the east consider themselves quite qualified to give lecture on this important subject bringing out before the publick remarks a far from the truth as light Darkness thus leading the [xxx] deserving emigrant far astray – the third reason on which he has to Stand is without any egotism on his part that he is able to give all that information that an emigrant may require being truthful [xxx] having traveled [xxx] [Page 2] of the territory taken his Claim plowed his Land sowed his Corn c built his Cabin cut down cut down [sic] the Logs cleared the brush with his own hands he feels with pleasure confidence that he can give to those who intend to emigrate such information as will be found to be of the most valuable useful charactor in the following work will be found every information which is useful for them without the the least degree of fiction or exaggeration of any kind. Contents 1st The authors Journey from New York to Kansas 2nd His first Tour of exploration to find a Suitable Location 3rd His Second Tour of exploration 4th Finds a Suitable Beautiful Location 5th Settles down Builds his Cabin makes improvements 6th The nature of the Soil 7th The various kinds of Timber growing on the Soil 8th the Price of Provisions Cattle Medical attendance c [Page 3] 9th The various tribes of Indians their Characturs c 10th Advice to emigrant before they commence their Journey. 11th Advice to De when they arive at their place of Settlement 12th Description of Characturs on the Settlements emigrants put on their guard against them 13th A true account of the proceedings of the Last Election 14th Charactur of Governor Reeder in Kansas Territory 15th The tremendous Indignation of the people at his Removal by a certain Individual 16 Their astonishment Disgust at the Apointment of Governer Shannon 17th The nature of Slavery in Misouree 18th the Charactor of the Slave there 19th Different Kind of Slaves 20 The Nature of the Climate in Kansas Territory [Page 4] 21st Various Striking Circumstances in the Authors Experience 22nd a brief history of the life death of some of those who came out with him [Page 5] 1 The Authors Journey from New York to Kansas - Oct. 3d 1854 we embarked in one of the Large Steam boat running between New York Albany (I forget the name) I had taken a birth in the Cabin was proceeding towards it when a ruffian came up I Suppose employed by the proprietor says going to Albany Sir. I answered yes cabbin passage first Class – this is the way then he says instead of leading me to the Cabin takes me to the Deck the vessel was going out Immediately so there was no escape Oh what a dreadful Scene presented itself to my view as the Vessel was just leaving the Dock this porter was busy bringing in the frieght on their truck regardless of the Limb bodys of the passengers who were lyeing about in heaps which would frequently produce Dreadful Oaths Screams from those who were injured Boxes beds chairs tables was piled up in pyramids [Page 6] The place was so hot the air so impure that I could Scarcely breathe in fact it made me quite sick I frequently had to force my way through a mulitude of emigrants of all Classes from all countrys to get a little fresh air to safe my life besides being Anoyed by the Screams of children Bawling of Drunken Men but at length this Night of horrors passed away the bright Morning appeared we found ourselves at Albany a busy Old fashioned but respectable looking City. I had just time to get my breakfast when the cars was ready for Starting which broke up the partey of many a carman passenger the Carman over chargeing the passenger refuseing to pay it but the carman always came of victor as he would sit on the most valuable part of the Luggage Swear that he would not move untill he was paid his demand Soon the cry all aboard would be heard the poor cheated passenger rather than loose his luggage would pay the imposing villain then pursue his Journey our Route lay through a beautiful tract of country corn fruit was ripe being gathered in Orchards Cornfields lined the road with their heavy crops forest trees with their leaves of every hue formed a most Delightful landscape so congenial to the mind of the intellectual traveller we likewise passed through many thriveing Towns Citys teeming with life energy so cheering to the man of business at night we arrived at buffalo but being Dark the City badly lit up I could see but little of it but the Docks are large well filled with Steamer the one we embarked on was the Nightengale with a company of the United States troops foot-bound for fort Scot but they did not apear to be very cleanly or very soldierly the New York City Militia was as far above them in every thing apertaining to the charactar apearance of a good Soldier as the heaven is from the earth I believe they were all Irish Dutch well deserved the character of dirty [xxx] [Page 7] The Lake was very rough many of the lady passengers especially was dreadful sick confined to their birth. we was 20 hours crossing the Lake at length arrived at the city of Detroit a large fast improving City when I arrived the railroad Depot I perceived on the white walls in Large black letters beware of theives pickpockets – I had not been there 5 minutes before a friend touched my arm said look at [xxx] so I perceived the porter an Irishman had cut open the Lid of a French redicub basket was takeing out its contents I says to him Oh there what are you about you consummate scoundrel you rob a man before his face in broad day light. you have placarded over your walls caution to the publick to beware of pickpockets theives when they apear to be born bred on the premises the only answer I had was a broad laugh – after a much trouble difficulty we got our Luggage on the rail again bound for chicago we found the prairie over which we travelled very many miles very lone but very rich fertile apearing capable of produceing any kind of root vegatable or fruit that can be found in any other part of the States the soil for a considerable Depth is black the country through which we passed presented to the eye of the traveller very many lovely interesting Landscapes frequently we beheld on a fine elevation a noble Substantial Mansion tastefully surrounded by a variety of Shade trees with a beautiful Vista in front of the Mansion then there would be a fine park studded over with many large noble patriarchal looking trees of Different Discription enamelled with a a rich green sword of superior charactor most interestingly dotted over with the finest Specimen of Cattle when to put a glass on this whole Landscape would be seen a delightful Silver Stream by moon light under the Midday Beam of the Glorious Sol Streaming forth like a Serpentine Sheet of gold here you behold a beacon [Page 8] Lake on whose glittering surface are gracefully glideing several noble swans with their snow white Bosom Magestic apearance but on on we dashed with our Iron horse through these Delightful scenes frequently through many a mile of forest full of tall stately trees with leaves of an endless varety of shades of Colour very frequently would be seen peeping forth from the rest of the forest trees the much admired sugar maple with its bright Scarlet leaves very frequently on our route there would be accidents happening to the engine which would detain us for an hour sometimes two when numbers would get out in search of water some would go wandering through the shady winding mazes of the forest in search of wild grapes which were hanging forth in large purple Clusters their exterior appearance was most pleasant to the eye their luscious Juice was most refreshing agreable to the taste others was most assiduous in their search for presimmons while some was dashing through the woods with great rapidity (fearfully apprehensive that the train would go of without them) in search of the much admired papaw while many others were to be seen with bunches of wintergreen in their hands when the cry of all aboard was heard it was amusing in some respects to see the passengers Dashing through the green leaves of the forest Jumping over ravines tearing their way through break briers to the great disfiguration Damage of their fine broad Cloath with persperation Streaming from every pore of their body many of them in great danger of getting broken arms heads legs then on we sped through towns cities with amazing rapidity untill the great unparrelleld thriveing city of Chicargo which a few years ago was a Wilderness but now blooming with all the beauty verdue of the Rose [Page 9] blooming with health for it apears to be a very healthy place blooming with business for it is all life energy blooming with prosperity for addittional buildings improvements are going up every day we got our luggage safely removed removed [sic] from one depot to the other which was a mile had it checked this is an highly important piece of business as I am now going to show a young man that came up with us from New York who as the common observation is was not so sharp as he should be or not quite compus mentos he did not think it worth while to trouble about a check at chicago consequently lost his all which he had packed in a large trunk to make the matter worse he goes to a lawer to recover it for him Oh yes says the Lawer I have often been engaged in business of that kind have always been successful for the trifling sum of 5 Dollars I will faithfully engage to get your trunk in 2 days out the 2 days arrived but the trunk never arrived thus the young man lost his trunk 5 Dollars through not secureing a check we left chicago in the night travelled on through Jolliet many other places till we arrived at Alton from there we took Steam boat sailed up to the city of St. Louis which might be called the city of Steamers for when you cast your eyes upon them first they appear out of number – we were surrounded by a Vast quantity of runners carmen Hotel men earnestly soliciting our patronage I soon engaged a carman had my luggage on board the Sam Cloon then the passenger got mixed more closely together become more aqquainted with each other – I should have observed that at St Louis Many of the passenger with myself availed ourselves of the opportunity of purchasing many articles which was absolutely necessary for the outfit of a Squatter here I would remark that I found St Louis one of the Cheapest [Page 10] Citys for provisions I was ever in during all my travels either in Urope or America. Oh ye lovers of the finny tribe of ye admirers of the delicious food produced for our tables by the denizens of the deep if ever you take St Louis in your travel go into the fish Market there you will behold glittering for Silver pyrimids of the finest c freshest fish in every variety what is most pleasing to those who are lovers of fish like myself is that they are very cheap I was witness to a purchase of a Lot of fine fresh fish which cost less than 3 cents per lb in hardware to they sell a good article for a very low price but to proceed on my Journey nearly all the passengers were emigrants to some part of the Vast regions beyond these were soldiers going to some fort or Military station – Lawers Shrewd men some free soil some pro slavery many a political battle would they engage in both partys Clever Armed Capapee but the Free Soil men haveing the best Battle ground to fight upon always came of conquerors there apeared likwise every kind of Mechanic 1 Roman Chatholic priest but he was carefully avoided by every Passenger except a few French Catholics not one of the others would speak to him or scarce look at him he was dressed very conspicuous having a peculiar kind of hat with a very long black coat every time I looked at him all the horrid buttcheries Bloody Martyrdom of the Roman Chatholic rose up before my minds eye made my blood run chill unfortunately there was a horde of young pickpockets theives who was continually watching their opportunity committing many thefts robberies articles was frequently lost no one knew were they was never found the boat was over crowded with passengers consequently there was very many who could have no birth but was obliged to Stow away their over coats Carpet sacks guns in the best place they could [Page 11] about the cabin very soon the pockets was emtied the carpet sacks cut plundered the barrels locks of the guns stuffed with mud other rubbish – we had but little sickness on board considering we were so overloaded. there was a deck passenger who was very sick with the cholera when I heard of it I went Down haveing some excellent cholera medicine with me I freely offered him some but there was a host of persons around him with various things in their hands ready to give him while one was in the act of pouring down his throat a large quantity of a dark kind of fluid each person with their different nostrum felt assured that theirs alone would save him from death I then felt assured that as I was a perfect stranger I should have no chance to give him any thing however valuable my medicine might be the poor fellow appeared to be in the greatest agony his great broad bosom heaved with pain but a few hours terminated his distress here below his wife was left a widow his children fatherless they buried him at the first city we came to on the river side in the middle of the night – the river was very low the boat heavy laden the river was frequently as low as 3 feet we often struck snags on one ocasion the vessell had a great hole nocked in her side by a snag which delayed us for a considerable time to get her repaired soon after she got some distance aground we had no hopes of getting her of for some time therefore it was thought best for as many of the passengers as thought to go ashore thereupon about fifty of us left the boat Rambled over the woods [Page 12] hills looking after various kinds of fruit arriveing at a backwoodsmans cottage we found it very agreeable to sit ourselves down to rest we found the old gentleman very communicative at a little distance from his garden there was a tree which two Old Missourians gravely pronounced to be a bee tree therefore contained a vast quantity of honey after stateing the case to a number of greenhorns with great energy they persuaded them to make up a Joint Stock company each paying in a certain sum to have his share of the honey but lo behold when these imaginary rivers of honey came to be explored they amounted to first no honey at all the result to the poor victims was no honey no money for the money was spent in liquor much to the annoyance of the Joint Stock Company we continued on shore for a considerable time amusing ourselves by hailing vessells that was going down the river haveing a little pleasant conversation with them but often had the Mortification to see them pass our boat which was still fast in the sand – the day wore on fast we soon found that we was not angels or spirits of any kind not even chameleons but Mortals such as could not exist without something more substantial than air the plain fact is we began to get very hungry the captain mate haveing wished us to go out of the boat did not care to send a boat to fetch us back or send us any food we was therefore obliged to find a plan to obtain some there happened to be a boat moored on our side of the shore [Page 13] which we engaged of the owner to go over to the steamer to fetch us some provisions at a very high price he like the rest of the world knowing we was famishing took advantage of our situation one of our party went with him came back with some bread ham beef but all who was allowed to partake of this timely supply of the Staff of life had to pay 1 Shilling which many I believe objected to because they loved their money better than they loved their stomachs but for my part I felt thankful for the opportune arrival immediately took the opportunity of enjoying the repast I must confess my inner Man felt much the better for it but soon we was in another difficulty night drew on fast it began to get chilly we felt very uncomfortable fearing our portion was to be there all night – we therefore got some cord wood which was on the shore made some first rate fires which made quite an illumination so that we could be distinctly seen by those on the boat they as clearly seen by us we made all kinds of Motions all kind of shouting to attract their attention induce them to fetch us aboard for along time it seemed in vain but at last we heard or thought we heard a slight paddle on the water we listened looked with great attention to our great Joy we found that it was in reality the Steamer boat then there was such a crowd around her that there was the greatest difficulty to get in but I most fortunately obtained a birth in the first boat with the compliment of a few [Page 14] Hard knocks bruises all the others were fetched in process of time but very slowly as the last party came onboard the steamer at one in the morning sometime after this an individual contrived to get up another Joint Stock company of a little different charractor to the last the man who got this up bore about him a slight cast of respectabality but he was in reality an awful swearer Drunkard – there happenned to be on board the boat in the cabin an old dutchman who had sailed with us from St Louis but singular enough he had no hat from the commencement of the voyage this dissipated man like many others of the same stamp like satan seeking how he might whom he might devour pitched upon this poor old no hatted dutchman who could not speak a work of english as the ground work of his villinous plot he went round to all the passengers pulling a very long face acting very hypocritically quite out of charactor said that he that he [sic] had to go round on the present business which was one of begging he was a very bad beggar but he was forced to it from feeling of pure humanity as he could find no one else to take up the case through he had tried again again he said the case stood thus there was a poor man on the cabin how he managed to get there he could not tell but he beleived he had not got a cent in the world as he was standing outside the cabin for a little fresh air the wind blew of his hat he was an old man had no money to purchase another was in a [Page 15] Of a few hard knocks bruises I felt very thankful when once more safely harboured in the Steamer ensconsed at the Supper table they all came on board at different times the last party had their Supper at 1. o Clock the next morning at length we reached Kansas City being 7 days makeing our Journey from St Louis we were all glad to leave the Boat being quite tire of the voyage we had our luggage removed to a large Hotel on the Levee near the landing of the Steamer called then union house but now the American House at that time this was the only hotel in the city of Kansas their Charges was very high but there was no choice 2nd the authors first Tour of Exploration to find a Suitable Location But in the first place I think it would be right to give a discription of the City of Kansas in the next place take a High Glance at the person that composed our band of Emigrants or Pioneers – Many persons writing in letters to their friends for the Newspapers have greatly misrepresented Kansas City some have stated that it was a place of no account very dirty filthy that the houses apeared to have been inhabited by Pigs Dogs only this in my estimation was far from being correct others have stated that it was a poor little unimprovable place whose trade was getting worse worse every year that while other places was going down but this is a Gross [Page 16] Misrepresentation as in fact its trade is continually increasing the Merchants there apear to be doing a great amount of business with the Indians who always pay in hard cash who take nothing else in return they will take no Bills of any kind they say white Man make it white Man keep it the Kansas merchants do a vast amount of business with Mexican traders sometimes a train of an hundred Waggons will going to Mexico Laden with all kinds of goods from Kansas City the trade that is carried on between the Santafee Traders the Kansas Merchants is immense continually increases the harbour of Kansas is Natural easy to access to steam Boats one of the best harbours on the river there is a great number of Boats going up down every all call at Kansas a great profitable trade is carried on between St Louis Kansas the City itself lies on the side of an hill there is a great number of respectable houses more being erected every day they are generally painted white with green window shades there his an handsome brick church on the top of the hill near the post office with a cupalo Bell in it is principally supplied by Methodist Preachers but preachers of all kinds of Denominations are at liberty to preach here the city is governed by a regular corporation Mayor common council men c c there is a printing office in the place doing a good business likewise publishes a newspaper supported by several merchants in the city edited by a talented man but as it regards [Page 17] its political or proslavery Principles of course as a lover freedom I am decidedly opposed to it—in the next place I have to notice or glance at as those who came out with us a company which came 2 Days after which we formed into one here let it be distinctly understood that we came out freemen paying all our expenses out of our own pockets unshackled by any Emigration Company whatever so here we stood a company of about 50 one was a cutler from New York but a native of Sheffield in England who when we landed from the boat was shakeing mightily with the ague but he soon got the better of that he was 36 years of age said that his wife family was in england who he intended to send for when he had found a location built his house No 2 was a broken down Drygoods man stated that he came from New York City but wherever he came from it was evident that he intended by some means out of other persons pockets such was in charactor that he would not be particular how he done so that he could blend the party by his hiprepocrisy pass for an honest man I am sorry to say that he was to successful in numbers of cases that came under my notice of takeing advantage of the ignorant unwary he represented that he was sent out by a large Society who had immense funds in their possession ready embark in building houses forming citys giving employment thousand thus he got many to believe that it was much to their interest to keep in his favour do every thing that he wished them believe every thing that he [Page 18] said follow him in all his councils to believe that he was infallible he told them that he had letters of recommendation from all the principal people of New York of course he must direct all the movements of the company all the movements of their cash on which he kept a double [xxx] eye he informed them with the most profound Gravity that he had letters of introduction to the Governors Judges Indian Agents all the Influential men in the territory Including all the indian Cheifs all the Indian Interpreters c c all the delegates that had been to Congress to settle Indian affairs armed with all this Supposed authority he marches forth with all the Immaganible Pomposity in the road bid defiance to all oposing power Armed at all points he presented a regular Chivadefreax against all parties who suspected his villany of whom I happened to be he always avoided me as much as possible never seemed easy in my presence he seemed to be afraid that I would say something that would explode all his Gas show up in his real native charactor a poor miserable broken down merchant as since confessed not worth 25 cents whenever I aproached him especially if he was in company there was very much of the aspen leaf charactor about him a violent tremorous would seem to shoot through his very soul afraid that his peacocks feathers would be torn away that he would apear in his proper but most uncomely form of the blackest vilest looking of all the Jack Daw tribe [Page 19] he went hither thither in Kansas city got his name registered as the on great reservoir of information to the exclusion all other sources he would represent as judge and gas pulling one of his longest faces which was naturally long enough stroking down his frightful looking beard he would say with solemn voice they were all vile impostors monstrous [xxx] so most of the party quailed under him they believed they believed that all that all their future prosperity was rapt up in his good Grace favour when he frowned it apeared to be death when he smiled it appeared to light up a heaven of Joy in their countenance—Oh what a tremendous power did this vain poverty struck unprincipled scoundrel apear to have over a great portion of the party who were plain strait forward industrious unsuspecting persons not aware of the depth of this awful depravity of the human heart they felt perfectly conscious that they had no inclination hurt others in any form or injure them pick their pockets or any thing else they had not there fore the least suspicion that there was any one near them so unprincipled as to want to lull them to sleep suck their lifes blood out of them especially as the heartless cruel bloodthirsty undermineing vampire Bat was the religious sanctimonious looking Man who had all the host of Indian Officials Government officials even the Governer himself all his suit all the great good men in the territory were ready to come forward at the shake of his wand if not to kiss his great toe [Page 20] but to give him all encouragement of protection if it was necessary – even to call out forces in his behalf – but to proceed this little great man calls a meeting on Sunday evening when he informed them though the meeting was to be of a religious charactor yet he thought it not out of the way sometimes in especial cases to introduce secular matters likewise so after some hymns had been sung some prayers had been offered up an exhortation given this little goliath puts forth his scheme tells them there would be a great meeting of all the party the next morning Monday on the hill at 9 O Clock he hoped that not one of the party would omit attending as he had a little money matter of great interest to bring before them – but we will leave this arch Villian all his schemes for the present as we shall have a great deal more to do with him at a future period – proceed to notice other charactors in the party No 3 was a tall dark looking man about 35 years of age of very stern appearance he came from a place near rochester in New York State professed to be brought up as a serveyor very much taken up with No 2 seemed to wish to be his right hand man that he might share in his spoils which he believed would be great he professed to be a religious man a Baptist No 4 was a baptist Minister who very much wished to form a coloney to be their minister he proposed that when we found a place suitable in size in possession of land wood water that we should settle down there from a city make out a great number of lots to sell for so much a Share [Page 21] thus as he proposed get into a large profitable scheme so far to have our cllaims all around to have the city in the middle from which we was to obtain a boundless source of treasures those that was of his opinion was to have a bit of cord tied to their coat button holes he was a man about 38 years of age 5ft 8 inches in height strong built rather inclined to stoop very keen looking No 5 was a ty[xx] founder from New York quite a young Man very volatile very vain thought no persons opinion right but his own in order to support his own opinion in opposition to others in order to make himself look big some one of importance he would tell some of the most glaring falsehoods every concocted under heaven which rendered him very despicable in the eyes of all lovers of truth he was a fine looking man of good countenance 5f.10 I in height 25 years of age No 6 was a man born in England but had been in America at least Canada for many years he had brought with him a large quantity of thread needle goods what he intended to do with we could not imagine he was a man of very little mind very excitable very Ignorant you could soon get him into a great blaze of passion he was a stout built Man 40 years of age 5f.7i in height – No 7 was an English man had been many years in the british army fought in many hard engagements received several wound bore a most excellent Charactor in the army received [Page 22] his discharge with a pension with a most excellent charactor which he well sustained when out of the army he married a wife when he left the army a very smart young Lady who he brought with him to Kansas he was a fair complexion open countenance 5f.6i in height 30 years his Lady was a fine looking person 24 years of age below the average height stout – No 8 was another Englishman likewise was a soldier in the british or rather had been but not like the other had honorable discharge with a good charactor but diserted his Regiment the royal Welsh Fusileers under very dishonorable disgraceful circumstances under which if he had been taken in England he would have been Shot he was always from a Child a notorious bad charactor every Welshman English man might well be ashamed of him he was born in Wales a disgrace to his fine noble country he commenced his carreer (which should be a warning to all youth who are inclined to vision propensitys to avoid them early in life) by sticking pins in May beetles making them spin for his fiendish amusement hellish gratification of spirit – the next thing was to get all the flies he could collect together in a Box with [xxx] so close together that they could not get out but he could see them starve to death – the next infernal amusement was to all the cats he could possibly collect together for miles round tie their tails together saturate them deeply with turpentine then let them loose [Page 23] all of a yellow blaze of fire – the next speciman of is abilities in the line of cruelty was to get a dog in a large town of a great population tie a tin Kettle to his tail let him run through the town or city were happened to be getting a larger collection of dogs as he proceeded onward in his tremendous noisy mad march to the number perhaps of an hundred all these he would take with him into every store as he passes through thronging the street with dogs of all kinds blocking up the King or queens high way leaving no room for passers by bruising foot passengers legs especially ladys all this cruel uproar continues to the great amusement of Mr Soldier (or many others like him of kindred spirit) who very much enjoys the fun untill the police interferes with a very great deal of difficulty a midst the Barking of a hundred dogs shouting of 500 rowdy boys he sets the poor thing at liberty by taken of the Kettle frequently not without getting severely Bitten for in many instance the dog is quite Rabid or raving mad – the next specimen of his abilities in this line was to hunt up with the greatest assiduity – Industry perseverance all the Idiots he could find in every city town or country were he happened to be ( this would be a great number as he was engaged as a stable boy in different [xxx] nearly all over Wales engaging in his employ a member of other wicked Rascals of like [Page 24] Spirit with him the scoundrels would frighten them nearly to death they rejoiced to see them in their highest pitch of horror – he continued on in this way untill arrived at Manford obtained a situation as footman in a noblemans family then he soon lost his situation for slandering the charactor of his fellow servants for creating a commotion disturbance in the house - then he wandered about without employ no person would take him in or employ in any kind of office whatever every one was disgusted with he became a fugitive a starved ragged vagabond no man gave unto him last he was of under the necessity of enlisting for a soldier to save himself from starvation when in the army himself for a little time got promote to be a Corporal as soon as he found the officers to place any confidence in him place any government funds in his hands he then turned traitor they say stole the money every thing belonging to government that he could take him into money he did so send for his wife (for was married while in the army) set out for America then in a few weeks he obtained employed as a rough carpenter even after he was married settled down in America he still carried on his old practices would get up in the night be 2 hours from his bed in a cold night killing cats when he came with us he had his wife child his wife appeared to be a fine woman on first aquaintance with her but as you had an opportunity of further aqquaintance with her the religion which she professed [Page 25] to enjoy amount to to just nothing you would find her to be a false deceitful person on whom you could place no dependance at all she was tall well grown-- the man was 5f.7i stout built 25 years of age No 9 was a young man of the name of Jones a Tinner by trade very harmless in his but very easily taken in by others 5.6 in height slim built 26 years of age from New York States apeared to be of very good charactor No 10 was another Tinner from Rochester of a very dissipated Charactor a fine looking healthy young 5.9 in height 24 years of age but I might as well finish up with him as he went as far as Westport worked there a little while was striken down with the Cholera died in a few days No 11 was a very respectable man of good means having a family of 8 children all very orderly well behaved he came from Waterbury in New York State his Wife was a very Respectable excellent lady the Husband was a Scotchman 5.6 in height rather stout built – No 12 was a stout built ruffian like looking man who had been many years in California whose family was now in New Jersey State he was 5.10 in height a very great Blackguard very much given to falsehoods always carried a revolver stuck in a belt by his side No 13 was a person from Rochester of a very sour sulky disposition he always apeared to be brooding over some plan of mischief frequently his plans would be developed much to his shame disgrace he professed to be a baptist a very religious man but an [Page 26] errant hypocrite great impostor he was 35 years of age 5f.7i in height he was of Dutch extraction brought a wife child with him his wife was to much like him of Irish extraction No 14 was a very excellent young man a Baptist 25 years of age came from Rochester of good reputation stout built 5f.11i in height had been brought up in the farming business – No 15 was a gentleman from Rochester a person who sustained a good charactor for reputation for wealth he was by profession a baptist was considered likely to become a father to the settlement 5f.7i in height stout built 47 years of age – No 16 was a young man from Rochester a carpenter of the first class a very sturdy quiet man professed no religion minded his own business 5f.9i in height 30 years of age very Stout he had a wife with him a fine looking woman of whom some persons spoke very slightly 25 years of age No 17 was a young man from New York City a type founder a brother to the one afore mentioned very stout 5f.11i in height 27 years of age he had very little to say but apeared to think very much of his strength abilities No 18 was a young man from indiana – 25 years of age in general he was a quiet unoffensive young man but could show himself a filthy Blackguard to frequently he was 5.8 in height had left his lady in indiana for whom he professed great affection No 19 was his brother apeared to be his counterpart in every thing but 2 years older No 20 was a young [Page 27] man from the State of New Jersey 24 years of age 5f.6i in height stout – brought up in the farming line a silly foolish fellow very badly educated No 21 was a respectable wealthy man from Rochester a baptist of good Charactor 45 years of age a shoemaker by trade 4f.6i in health stout healthy he had a Lady Children in Rochester which he intended to bring out in the fall 22 was a Scotchman of a good reputation 30 years of age very strong willing to work came from Rochester to Kansas but had not been long in America there was several others who formed the party the particular of whose Charactors c I cannot now recollect now as I before stated No 2 called a meeting for Monday Morning early which accordingly took place at the apointed time No 2 proposed that there should be 2 parties formed to go different Routes one towards the wea Mission 50 miles the other towards Lawrence City 50 miles to obtain further information every one of the male party was to pay 1 Dollar each to commence with into the general fund but there was a vast difference of opinion manifested in the party No 2 began to show of a little of his cupidity much to the annoyance of others he proposed that he one more should go with him in a comfortable buggy 12 Dollars to be apropriated from the general fund for their use that a waggon should be engaged for the conveyance of the luggage [Page 28] of the other party who was going in the direction of Lawrence but No 2 very shrewedly proposed that there might a many as thought proper go with the waggon train but they would remember that they would have to pad it on foot as there was not sufficient money left in the funds after he had drew out his quantom moreover that every man that went in the waggon train would have to buy his own provisions help pay for the board of the driver this caused a great noise in the meeting a vast amount of discussion difference of opinion was manifested many thought that No 2 was takeing to much upon himself was makeing a very comfortable pleasant nest for himself at the expense of others while the other party was to endure the burden heat of the day get along as best they could only the waggon paid for to carry their carpet sack [xxx] but when No 2 perceived the spirit of dissension rising very high he rose up in the Midst said fellow emigrants you know how I have laboured to promote your interest at the sacrifice of my own you know the vast influence I possess with the influencial men of the Territory of Kansas you know likewise what a large quantity of Letters of Introduction I possess from every person of distinction in the state City of New York (the Reader will pardon the author for a short digression here while he directs his attention to the fact that when No 2 arrived at Kansas City he knew [Page 29] no one at all in Kansas territory great or small as to his letters of Introduction from New York State City it was all a farce they amounted to Just this 2 or 3 letters from a few Teachers in a Sunday School somewere in New York City headed with to all whom it may concern was a Sunday School Teacher in this school for so long a time of good charactor as far we have had oportunity of ascertaining this was the little animacular which he magnified to a great Elephant) if I see any more signs of dissension or opposition among you I shall with draw it is quite Immaterial to me have it all your way remember I am not benefitted at all it is for your good at which I aim at this declaration a palor sat upon the countenance of many their language was in effect great is Difference of the [xxx] great is No 2 -- they soon settled down to agree to do as he wished 17 volunteers to go out with the waggon of whom I was one being Strong hearty at that time I did not wish to be left behind I had much desire to see the Country was as able to endure fatigue then as any of them although I never aproved of the conduct of No 2 accordingly our waggon was paid our provisions purchased put in the waggon with a few guns carpet sacks axes now we are marching on the road to Westport 4 miles from the City of Kansas – No 2 came as far as Westport with his Buggy then started of in another direction – we found [Page 30] the road to Westport very pleasant skirted on each side with Villa woods corn fields cottages but it is a very hilly Country we met a great many ox horse teams comeing down to Kansas from various parts of the Country to be loaded with articles in which the merchants of Kansas do a great trade we hailed our horses at Westport then proceeded on our Journey through very fine strips of timber we are now in the territory belonging to the Shawnee tribe we reached the Methodist Mission belonging to the Shawnee it is managed by a person of the name of Johnson a very portly reverend respectable looking gentle man of proslavery principles but very much respected by the Shawnees there is every reason to believe that he have been very useful in promoting their education – at that time it was in contemplature of makeing it the seat of Government for the Territory he informed me that he had offerred the use of his extensive premises to the Governor Reeder for that purpose he thought he the Governor seemed inclined to his offer it apears that Mr Johnson was correct in his ideas on the subject for in a few weeks it was the seat of territorial Government onward we proceeded to the baptist Mission of the Shawnees which was a much smaller establishment we did not however see the Minister who we understood to be an abolitionist we had some conversation with [Page 31] some liberated slaves who apeared to be very happily at work on the premises we proceed onwards through beautiful scenery over a fine road untill we came to a creek were the river thought would be a good place to encamp for the Night we accordingly made a good fire being plenty of fuel made our coffee partook of a good supper then went to bed having first put up our tent the morning sun arose bright fair haveing been saluted in the night by sounds not very pleasant to our ears such as the howling of wolves hooping of Owls c the driver proceeded to get his horses ready for the start we put our coffeepot Cooked our meat made an hearty breakfast one of our company complained that his feet was sore could not go any farther consequently went back by the first waggon that past us we continued our Journey over a very fair road generally through a great many delightful tracts of timber passing a great number of indian cabins untill at a place called Walkanooted creek on the opposite bank lived an Indian called blue Jacket one of the delegates to congress on indian affairs being near evening most of the men were tired out we thought it best to stop there he treated us very well furnished us with us with very good beds first rate supper for which we had to pay 75 cents each we were all very well satisfied with our fare charge blue Jacket was a very well behaved [Page 32] man one of the Shawnee nation but after we had of our breakfast there arose quite a difference of opinion amongst respecting the route we had better take some travellers had called in at blue Jackets inflated the minds of some respecting some fine tract of timbered watered land on the Osage river thither they were resolved to bend things way about 9 had resolved to go in that direction the ballance of the parties who were inclined to go toward the City of Lawrence of which I was one drew out part of the money which we had paid into the treasurer hands proceeded on foot to Lawrence City without the waggon the other parties taken it with them we arrived at Lawrence Just in time to dine having walked 9 miles but to our surprise the first persons we observed there was those Scape graces otherwise New York Loafers pickpockets I have alluded to in a former part of the work when the boat landed at Kansas these Sharpers Jumped on Shore useing some profane language indicating that they were not going to stay any time in Kansas but would go on get a location before any one else we were glad to part with their detestable company thought no more of them till we met again in Lawrence they informed us they endured a great deal of suffering on their Journey being short of funds had set fire to some thousand of acres of prairie grass by way of amusement had [Page 33] at length arrived at Lawrence without any money they said they was obliged to work to get any food showed me their hands covered with large blisters with very sorrowful countenances I was very glad their wild tigers was tamed a little by hunger hard work after having dined refreshed ourselves we proceeded to look around us we found the city in prospectus not quite so far in advance as we expected but still their was signs of improvement a timber grist Mill was in process of erection many houses or cabins of one kind another was going up fast we met with Mr Pomeroy the the Agent for the Boston Society we found him to be quite a Gentleman haveing had opportunities of farther acquaintance with him have had no reason whatever to retract from my first opinion concerning him some wished me to story here but finding scarcely any timbers with in many miles of Lawrence I was not settled in my opinion whether or not I should take up my station there or not at any rate I thought I would go back to Kansas City first as I had a good quantity of luggage there then next morning I started on my way back having consigned them to the care of the hotel keeper being several dollars in value [xxx] that is the luggage I brought with me to Lawrence the Hotel keeper promising he would send them to Kansas any time I might send for them. I then proceeded on my Journey to Kansas in a light waggon reaching the City in 2 days leaving [Page 34] the remnant of my party in Lawrence city thus ended my first Journey of exploration 3 The authors 2nd Journey of Exploration No 2 had arrived 2 hours before me in Kansas City so that I arrived Just in time to hear the result of his Journey a meeting had been apointed to meet on the side of the Hill at 4 o clock several of the party attended he commenced his manuoveing by asking each of the party what sort of a Location they would like having obtained their ideas on that point he framed his speech according he picked up a few walnuts on the road to the Mission selected 3 of the finest begged a few pieces of Coal he exultingly held out the pieces of Coal says here gentlemen I have been telling you that in that beautiful land of which I have found out there is inexhaustible treasures of the purest Coal to show that I am speaking the truth here is a specimen of the valuable article which I took from the Mines produced the walnuts says here is a specimen of the fruit growing on the soil these are among the smallest (the walnut he had picked up his companion confessed on the Shawnee reserve lands a beautiful tract of Country which will come into public market at some future period these reserve lands commence about a mile from the city of Westport) when no 2 had finished his harangue a collection commenced to obtain the dollars from those who had not previously [Page 35] any thing into the fund this being arrainged satisfactorily as the party was in good spirits it was proposed that we should proceed to these new found lands on the Monday – waggon Oxen various kinds of implements of agriculture in short every thing that a backwoodsmans life requires as soon as possible to as large an extent as possible was collected - Monday mornings October Sun seen our battalion on the move No 2 with 3 other persons rode in a kind of stage while the others got along the best way they could we past through quite a different section of the Shawnee reserved lands to those I had previously travelled through on my way to lawrence thus giving me a diversified view of this beautiful land not yet come into the market we marched along through extensive praries of the richest soil groves of timber of the finest growth valuable charactor ravines creeks which shook our oxen tremendously to pass after camping out 2 Nights we reached the point No 2 had arrived at in his travels the house of an Indian Interpretor whose name is Batteestie who keeps an house of refreshment for travellers Mostly Indians a Store well supplied with all kinds of things that the different tribes with whom he is well aquainted are likely to require he is a Noble looking Indian for an Indian very communicative – the land we had to take possession of was 10 mile from this place all that No 2 had told us of between the house of Batteestie was from Information he had received from him we wer now on a par with No 2 for we knew as much about the road beyond as he did some of the party went to the wea baptist Mission which lay to our left [Page 36] Rather farther of our expected place of settlement than the Indian interpreter the party that went to the wea Mission returned with all the Information they could collect from that quarter – then we took the Interpreter with us proceeded on our Journey through deep creeks tangled brushwood were none but the Indian had passed before it was with great difficulty we could get the Oxen through then our road ran over a fine prarie with here there very singular mounds riseing up to strike the travellers attention one was called Observation Mound another Pilot Mound at length we reached the Osage or Meridezine River which at that time was very difficult to cross (but not xxx) the tract of land which was now presented to our view on which we had our eye for a settlement lay between the Osage Pottawatomie Rivers about a mile from river to river with a fine belt of first rate timber on both sides – a site for a city was looked out set apart we all began to look out for claims to suit ourselves as at that time there was plenty of Opportunity as the prarie timber of the best quality stretched up between the rivers to a vast extent the name of the city in prospectus is called Ossawotamie derived from the 2 rivers potawatomie the Osage the water from the rivers I consider myself to be good healthy I have drank largely of them A large tent was erected at first untill log houses on the differ claims could be erected a gentleman from rochester one of our party took a very active part in the formation of the settlement ultimately was elected by the people sworn in by the Governor as our Cheif Magistrate which office he apeared very well qualified to fulfill thus ends successfully the authors tour of exploration [Page 37] 4th the Author finds a suitable beautiful location when our Party arrived on the rich fertile tract of Country now called Ossawotamie there was scarcely a cabin in all that vast fertile fruitful region 2 or 3 Misourians was there a month before us had cut down some logs was preparing their cabins for erection the walnuts of large size was lieng about in vast quantities in all directions in the woods Hickory nuts in any quantity likewise acorns in great abundance the grass was yet for some months later good for cattle on which they fed well the weather here in October is very pleasant – it is a difficult thing sometimes to select a location even were they are plentiful those who were like us the first party of settlers in that region had the first choice looking over different quarter sections in such an unexceptionable soil with such fine timber good water you sometimes think this is the best timber that is the [xxx] timber – this have got some fine building sites but on the eminen [xxx] there is a little stone (which by the bye may not be an encumbrance but it looks so) while another quarter S--- has no Stone about but lies low likely to be overflown by the river you stand a good chance to be nearly eaten up by Muskitoes melted by the Sun in Summer -- blocked up by snow in winter which always especially in a climate like Kansas drifts down into low places for my part not feeling inclined to have the product of my labour either in cultivation of the soil or in the erection of a cabin washed away by the over flowing rivers not having any prediction whatever [Page 38] either to the Music or the bite of the Musquitoes having no desire at all wakeing in a winter Morning to perceive my window door blockaded by a wall of snow I therefore chose a claim with a fine elevation were there would be no fear of the overflowing rivers fine breezes blowing in the Summer quite refreshing cooling while the heat is almost unbearable in the vale together with swarms of Musical tormentors on an elevation we generally find the snow of very little depth being borne of by the winds to the vale below the Claim on which the Author fixed his Choice had on it 50 acres of the choicest timber of immense size a great part of it there was 2 fine elevation noble sites for building at the back of this was a lovely overhanging shady Grove then at the foot of the grove rolled the Magestick Silvery serpentine river the Potawotamie Mile from the City of Ossawatomie oft have the Author stood by Moonlight on the bank of this lovely stream overshadowed by the tall trees wondering at adoring the wisdom of the Great Creator saying with Milton in wisdom thou hast made them all – before the Authors cabin lay a fine specimen of Prairie soil of the best kind nicely pulverized then Rolling onward as far as the eye could reach (to the utmost bounds of the everlasting hills on the right left belted by masses of fine timber forming on the whole a landscape unsurpassed by any in the Settlement -- he believes he is Justified in Stateing that he has found a beautiful suitable location 5th Settles down builds his Cabin Makes Improvements [Page 39] Here the author begs leave to direct the consideration of the expense of building a cabin in a settlement alone that he is to calculate upon but the expense of boarding all the time if it is in Summer when the heat is an hundred degrees above zero he can do but little if in winter the snow will frequently stop his progress but he must persevere with a good heart he will soon find himself possesor of a house of his own independent of any landlord – the Author built his cabin 12 by 14 10 in height – he then Cleared the brush or young timber Stumps c that lay around the house which after considerable difficulty he managed to convert into a fine large garden were instead of Bush Weeds Brier would be found peas-carrots-parsnips-beets-watermelons-MuskMelons-Squash Melons tomatoes-Onions-with a quantity of Corn in the Garden -- on the prairie before the house was a fine patch of Corn such Corn that he have not seen any were in the States save the prairie 6th The Natures of the Soil in describeing or endeavouring to describe – the nature of such a soil as is found in Kansas Territory or especially in Ossawotamie it rich beyond description – Stony soils there is very little of in Ossawotamie but what there much more than what there is will be found aceptable as the city advances in growth in makeing lime walls roads houses Coal or Stictai of Coal had [Page 40] have been found there of the very first quality bituminous Coal - gravel is frequently found in sinking wells c c sand of the finest kind clay of various kinds is to be found on the banks of the rivers in beds of Do----but the soil of soils the Prince of Soils from which vegetation in all its Mighty Gigantic proportions in all it Magestic growth with [xxx] speeds is a fine black mould running in many cases a foot down from the surface this soil apears capable of produceing any, whatever you plow your ground plant your seed rake or harrow it in you have no more trouble with it as it regards Cultivation no Moulding no hoeing but it springs up through every obstacle grows with amazing rapidity the soil in reference to one part of the territory will hold good with other parts with but few exceptions 7th The various kinds of timber growing on the Soil Among the noble trees of the West will Stand foremost the gigantic Oak of an immense height frequently 5 feet through of these kind of trees we find it very convenient to make shingles for our Cabins next is the black Walnut which frequently grows very large the wood is very hard will resist insects of any kind being exceedingly durable capable of bearing the most beautiful polish being of a most [Page 41] variety of grain the next is the hickory which on this soil grows to an enormous size – the author had on his Claim 15 acres of young Hickorys growing with great rapidity – the Elm grows to a very large size likewise the Slippery Elm to so useful for medicinal purposes the Sycamore with its variggated bark connecting the margin of the rivers – the Alder Elder trees grow abundantly here the coffeenut Tree the timber of which is of a most valuable charactor being very hard having a grain very similar to Mahogany – Hackberry which is a very valuable wood for many purposes – the Cotton tree Button wood tree grows to a great extent there is likewise here several plantations of Willows of different specimens I should have observed that there are various kinds of Oak viz, the black Oak the burr Oak the Swern [xxx] Oak the Scrub Oak grapes of every kind grow here in rich Luxuriance yield a great supply of fruit the Ash the Aspen – Fruit trees of all kind grow well here there are many fruits berrys that are natural to the soil such as gooseberry June berry Rasberry Blackberry Strawberry Sumach in great abundance there are vast fields of Wild Onions or Shalots growing in different parts of the territory which prove very acceptable to the Settler to give him a zest or relish to other kind of food the author has some fine speciman of wild Onions on his Claim which he found peculiarly palatable when boiled fried up – there are many things which grow on the prairies which will be found to be very excellent substitutes for Cabbage Collyflower c such as Lambs tongue [Page 42] Slop Tops which grow here in great abundance the Settlers make a very palatable wholesome liquor from the hop blossom which grow very large – then there is the wild nettle which may be obtained by Cart load boiled quick with vinegar put on them they are exceedingly good Wholesome – Wild Onions continue in season from March to June 8th The price of provisions medical attendance c Information of this kind will prove very beneficial to the Emigrant as many partys on comeing out load themselves with Stores of various kinds – quite unnecessary it is very different now to what it was when the first Settler arrived we had to bring with us at a great expense of carriage our Flour-Meal – Crackers Tea Sugar Meat in fact every individual we wanted but now on the Settlements there is a wonderful alteration in favour of the Emigrant you need bring no kind of provision with you but will find a plentiful supply of every thing but Cheese if you are fond of that ( many eastern people are the author not Excluded) you had better bring with you a good supply – the price of provisions on the Settlement good Wheaten Flour – from 5. Dollars a Bag to 6 Dollars Indian Meal 1 Dollar Butter 25 cents lb Good sugar 10 cent lb soap at very low prices Best Vinegar 10 cents Quart Port Wine 60 cents quart good Potatoes 1 Dollar p Bushel good Bacon [Page 43] Hams c 11 cents p lb Best Rice 12 cents p lb – Dry Goods Ready made mens aparrel c of every kind very cheap – the price of cattle in the Settlement the emigrant will find to vary from parties wanting so much profit more than others the author would apace the reader that if he would wait a little look around him make inquiries he will be able to purchase cattle very reasonable as there are parties on the Settlement who are continually going down to the State buying droves of Cattle at the best advantage bringing them up to the Settlement for sale the Average Price of a good Cow Calf on the Settlements is from 20 to 25 Dollars (the author is writing from experience) the Price of a first rate yoke of Steers is from 70 to 80 Dollars per Yoke – Sheep there is none of any importance yet but the author thinks they would prosper very well especially some of the finest largest specimens Pigs are very dear although they cost the owners nothing for keep – poneys from 30 to 70 Dollars although sometimes if you find an Indian in need of money you may get a poney a little cheaper – in the next place the quality prices of Medical attendance which is of such vital importance to every Settler in a newly Settled territory which every one knows must from the actual nature of things the breaking up of the prairie splitting of the Rails in the Summer great heat which the settler may [Page 44] not be used to shows that sickness in any part of the territory may be very Naturally expected the Medical Men in the Settlements as far as the authors observation have served him have been generally successful of course of Course there will be quacks or pretenders in all professions or trades every were the average price for a good Medical Mans attendance includeing medicine for a Moderate distance is 2 Dollars per visit – The various tribes of Indians their Charactors c very many persons comeing from the east especially the ladys are inclined to think that there is something very dreadful in the Charactor of the Indian they look at them through the mirrer of their terrified Imaginations they think they see them with their body painted in frightful Colours their hands stained with human blood in one hand the terrible Tomahawk uplifted in the other a bloody scalping knife with a frightful number of scalps lieing around – but however correct this view of the case might have been in days of Yore – it is far from being correct now – there are a great many tribes of Indians in various parts of the territory at the present day warlike tribes to -- they sometimes go to war with each other with deathlike fury stamped on their countenances determined to conquer or die (the Author have frequently seen them on these warlike expeditions [Page 45] Missing – noted on copy made by daughter F.P.F 10/30/72 [Page 46] Demeanour of the Indians yet they are terribly frightened even at the sight of a squaw – one of the Settlers wife was one morning providing for dinner when on looking up from the Stove turning her eyes toward the windows (there was 3 windows to the house) to her great horror surprise consternation she beheld a squaws head with her dark eyes sunk in her head looking most penetratingly at her observing all her motions – the Settlers wife turned her eyes away from such an horrifying sight as she thought to the other window lo behold there was a very large squaws head there to – still there was one window remaining but one but in turning her head aside to that still the dreadful horrid looking head with the dark eyes was glaring at her she gave a dreadful scream haveing a Girl with her she sent her to the husband who was at work mile from the house to hasten home with all speed as the Indians were all around the house she expected before he arrived to be killed eaten up by them -- on another occasion a Settlers wife being at home by herself generally as her husband worked several miles of the Cabin was in the Midst of a large prairie 3 Indians on horseback rode up looked in through the windows at her then came round to the door knocked with trembling hands she opened the door ( as she informed the author) expecting every moment to draw his large hunting Hunting [sic] Knife from the belt plunge it into her heart bear a way her bleeding scalp [Page 47] Such has been is now the unfounded fears entertained by the female settler in reference to the Indians character – but if we take an impartial view of the Indian Character we must pronounce it noble as far as the tribes near the territory we concerned there are tribes like the comanches others of which the author knows little or nothing about – but if we refer to the Siox the Piankeshaw the Osages the weas fox Delewares Potawatomie or Wyandots we can unhesitateingly say they are a noble race many of them are exceedingly well to do in the world they are the individual owners of a great number of Poneys Cattle Pigs Poultry c they have their fine gardens their Blooming fields of Corn their Rosey Peach Apple orchard you may See the Indians their squaws sometimes on the road to Westport or Kansas rideing on the most noble looking Choiest Steed pawing the ground prancing with the Choicest decorations on for be it remembered the Indians takes the greatest pride imaginable in the trapping of their horses they like to them covered over with half moons whole Moons Diamonds Stars c cut out in brass washed over with Silver then their Squaws never wear any hats but their heads are covered with the richest handkerchiefs or Shalls that are of immense value Cloaks c c the Squaws are most excellent horsewomen they take a great delight in showing it but there others certainly who are not so well to do in the world [Page 48] whose gardens orchards c c indicate a spirit of Sloth indolence lack of industry sometimes poverty but there are none of them poor neither indeed can be as the American Government have placed it our their power at present as they all have a large tract of land granted them a sum of money yearly more than sufficient to keep them well every individual Indian man woman or child If an Indian comes to your house or cabin he may ask for bread water rum or whiskey you supply his wants he do not expect to pay you for it because if you go to his cabin sleep for a week in his own cabin eat his bread drink his whiskey Ride his poneys he will not charge you 1 cent for it a friend of the authors was going to a place called Sugar Creek a Settlement in the territory but he lost his road tried in vain to find it but in his endeavour to do so he wandered many miles from it got deeply benighted at last he seen or thought he could see a light to which he directed his attention his steps [illegible] joy it proved to be the light fr[illegible] he was received with the greatest aff [illegible] city the best they could afford was brought out Bread meat – Butter - Whiskey – they gave him their best bed with the utmost show of willingness in the morning after partakeing of a good breakfast they put him on one of their best horses a Young [Page 49] Indian mounted another after riding 10 miles placed him in his right track after the most friendly Salutation wished him good morning though he insisted on paying something for so much kindness yet he would not take one cent – take another illustration of Indian charactor – when the author was on his first Journey of exploration there was several of the party who did not feel in the least inclined to sleep in the tent but went about in quest of Indian house to sleep in they was successful in their efforts found a very comfortable cabin nicely fitted up by a new married couple of the Shawnee tribe they gave our men a good supper gave up their own bed a very good bed they said it was took a Skin for themselves laid down in it by the fireside while the strangers where sleeping snugly in their comfortable bed when the morning arose the strangers asked them what they had to pay the Indians seemed surprised that they should ask such a thing could not be prevailed on to take any thing this author have had dealings frequently with the various tribes and have always found them without exception men of honour – with the strictest integrity in dealing they are men of few words but what they say they mean they have a great objection to take bills in the way of trade they will have [xxx] they [Page 50] will not take paper money of any kind they say white man make it white man keep it – 10th Advice to Emigrants before they commence their Journey – In the first place I need not say that it is necessary to get all the Information respecting the place or settlement to which he intends to emigrate but get all he can from practical or experimental sources from plain straight forward cultivators of the soil men who have been through the furnace in the next place find out the shortest cheapest Route by rail if you can if you can afford it take first Class all the way – the next thing provide yourself with very strong trunks or Boxes well Corded directed for you will astonished to see how the rascals of porters will dash your things about turning it bottom upward try to shake knock it to pieces in order that things may fall out – you will find plenty of Pickpockets at the different stations beware – do not take any more things than you will really want as you will be able to buy most things now at the Settlement at prices not much in advance of home prices the charge of goods for passengers over 81 lbs is most enormous that Charge continued in a great many [Page 51] be particular in getting the Checks for your luggage be sure keep them upon that the safety depends you may meet with persons that will say to you give me your check I will see your luggage all right you may never see checks or luggage any more – be careful with whom you form an aquaintance with on your Journey especially those who would wish to pry into your business when you land at Kansas get to the Teritory as soon as possible either by stage or by hireing a team according to the quantity of Luggage you may have 11 Advice to emigrants when they arrive at their place of Settlement – After you have seen your luggage safely deposited in the Inn it will be well to make inquiry of the lanlord in reference to Claims or to persons who wish to sell out you will generally find the lanlord tolerably well posted up in these matters some emigrants when they arrive at a Settlement begin to prepare for a long tour of exploration not only prepare but prosecute their Journey frequently spend more money than they could purchase a fine timbered Claim for near the town or Settlement it is most likely that this fall fine Claims may be [Page 52] Purchased from 50 to 100 or 150 Dollars – or I should have said that squatters will be most likely willing to sell out for those sums that will be found much more profitable than wandering hundreds of miles eventually returning unsuccessful much lighter in Pocket – than when you set out There is another important consideration for the emigrant say that when you are about to purchase a squatter interest in a Claim examine it well previous to the closeing of the purchase in reference to the quality quantity of the timber-soil-water c especially if there is a good building site on the Claim it have not been unfrequently the case that settlers after resideing some time on their claim have become dissatisfied finding out that a certain claim which they could have obtained on much more easy terms than the one on which they are resideing had much more better timber than they thought for frequently they are the subjects of much uneasiness of mind the result of not well examining a quarter section before they gave it up very often the worm of remorse is wounding the vitals of their peace because they did not sufficiently examine the Claim on which they have Settled 12th Description of Charactors on the Settlement Emigrants put on their guard against them --- [Page 53] It is frequently the case that the Cash (little or much) which a emigrant brings with him into a new territory is the fruit of many years of hard toil industry therefore the author feels it is especial duty to give the alarm against those sharks with which every Settlement is more or less infested in the territory it is more than probable that soon after you arrive in the Settlement you will be visited by one or two or more of these dangerous Individuals who will tell you most likely that they were the founders of the Settlement that they came out with the very first Settlers that when all the others were discouraged on account of the insurmountable difficulty which apeared to Surround their path in consequence thereof was ready to turn back leave the Settlement altogether but they (the Sharks) like brave persevering noble General rallied up the disatisfied disappointed dispirited settler urged them to look forward to brighter more cheering scenes told them them that there was better days comeing boys they will also try to make you believe that having infused life spirit into them by their heroic speeches example that the others fell to work with gigantic energy that the noble lofty trees fell before – the force of the Axes that the woods echoed with the sound of the back woodsman stroke that all things asumed a prosperous [Page 54] apearance went on as merry as a marriage bell they will be very likely to point you to various Improvements made on the Settlement within the year at the same time insinuateing that none of these Improvements could or would have taken place had it not been for their Overwhelming influence indomitable Courage unparrelled perseverance the author have often heard a shark of this description say had it not been for me there would have been no settlement at all I gave up my claim for the good of future generations that the settlers might be benefited while I have no claim but must borrow money to purchase some squatters interest in a claim – on hearing this the unsuspecting emigrant may be led to exclaim oh what a useful noble-disinterested man – but but [sic] Remember that while this truly dangerous man is telling you all this fudge there is an undercurrent of self interest flowing in his breast the secret is this he have found out that you have got some money he wants to get it of you. but how will he proceed in trying to get possession of it why in the first place he cuts a dashing apearance he Rides a fine horse his family is dressed at the top of the fashion he assumes the apearance of a rich popular man he will mostly likely tell you that though he hath done so much for the Coloney yet he have been [Page 55] Yet he have been [sic] very prosperous providence haveing smiled on him he will talk of this scheme that which he has in view so fraught with advantage having so much money invested in valuable property he is just now pushed for a few hundred to complete a great bargain but if you feel any hesitation or cannot conveniently do it apears to be very indifferent about it he says it is of little consequence whether you do it or not as there are plenty who would be glad to do it for him knowing his wealth great Influence but as he was the first person he had spoken to on the subject as he had it in his power to put hundreds in the emigrants way he thought he might be glad to accommodate him in this manner do these Sharks work upon the feeling of the simple emigrant till they allow them to swallow down a few hundreds which they never more disgorge the poor emigrant becomes another victim amongst vas number of others thus these Sharks thrive for the present on the credulity of the honest Emigrant 13 A true account of the proceeding of the last Election the conduct of the Misourians at the last Election reminds me of a part of a speech I heard some years past the Speaker was endeavouring to Show [Page 56] that an aristocratical government was better than a democratical one as he said the latter frequently degenerated into no government law or order but a mere rabble – at this point he raised his Stentorian voice exclaimed give me Arristocratical law give me Martial law give me any kind lifting up both hands he says but may the Lord save me from mob law but at the Election in Kansas Territory for assembly men council men to form the legislature at every Polling place in the territory there was Mob law in all its disgraceful degradeing humiliating forms Sometime previous to the time apointed by the governor for voteing in fact it was the day apointed for the Census Officer to perform his duty in our part of the 11th District we conveened a meeting for all legal voters to attend in order to propose Judges c for the ensuing election. A very large number attended we apointed nearly Unanimously 3 free soil men as Judges of the Election sent the document of by a special messenger to Governor Reeder but such apeared to be the clandestine secret rougery power of the proslavery party that before it could reach the Governors hand to sign the apointment they had substituted 2 proslavery men for the 2 free soilers appointed [Page 57] The Governor not being aware of the proslavery trick signed the document so it was fixed no doubt much to the satisfaction of the proslavery party at length the day of election arrived there was between 50 60 legal votes from our precinct but to our great astonishment when we arrived at the Polling Booth we free soilers were confronted by 200 Missourians not one of them haveing a right to vote every one of these men armed with a brace of revolvers a Rifle Bowie knife if at any time they were challenged in regard to the validity of their vote they would answer the Challenger with a dreadful threat to blow his brains out (at the same time holding forth a revolver) if he said another word concerning the matter when the free soil election Judge was returning from the Election in the evening many was the Rifle balls that whistled after him thus was the Kansas Election by brute force or mob law but it was not only the case in the precinct were the Author voted but in every other precinct in the territory the author has not the least doubt existing in his mind that if only those who had a legal right to vote had been allowed to do so there would not have been 1 proslavery Member in the Council or in the Assembly [Page 58] Chap14 Charactor of Governor Reeder in Kansas Territory It is a most pleasing task for an author in writing a Sketch of the character of an Individual (however brief that Sketch may be) to have it all sunshine round about him to be enabled to look upon him enlightened by the steady unwavering light of truth as a diamond of the first water without the slightest shade to dim its Transparent luster full orbed splendour let us then in the first place view him as a lawer how boldly calmly logically likewise successfully has he reasoned on some of the most intricate knotty points of law brought forward by the most smart crafty able Lawers Counsellers of the proslavery tribe they would fire one after the other volleys of eloquence sophistry at him but when he had cleared away their Smoke (for it as but Smoke) he stood forth Clearly as the conquering hero but again view him as a Governor of a New Territory surrounded by proslavery enemys who was determined if possible not to be governed not only so but took the advantage of casting the most formidable obstacles in his way that lay in their power – [Page 59] many were the Snares traps pitfalls they placed in his path very many were the Abuttresses fortification Ramparts they placed with the utmost of their Skill in the road to opose his march as governor but in vain he escaped their Snares he broke through like a bold able warrior all fortifications c established himself as a Governor possessed of first rate qualifications again if we view him as a man of Courage his conduct will well Sustain him upon that ground behold him threatened by the proslavery party with the rope – revolver rifle Bowie knife after the Election but did any of these things move him did he recoil at their puny threats did he tremble at their outbursts of wrath fury no Governor Reeder was not the Man to quail but like a well built Light House nobly withstanding the Shock of every angry Billows throwing forth a blaze of light safety all around Chap 15 The tremendous indignation of the people at his removal by a certain Individual The author would beg leave to inform the reader that there was one thing in particular that roused excited the Indignation of the people [Page 60] or rather settlers it was this that a certain Individual high in influence power at the present time professing to entertain believe in the same political creed views sentiments with the worthy gentleman he sent forth apointed with his own seal to be the Governor of Kansas yet without the Slightest proof of the best flaw or stain in his charactor in any particular whatever but because a base lawless murdering unprincipled proslavery Male should request it in opposition to the petition of respectable settlers who alone has a right to petition or request on such an Occasion he withdraws a Gentleman mighty in the knowledge of the law noble in principle unsullied in charactor substitutes at the request desire or demand of a low proslavery rabble – What Oh tell it not in Gath Publish it not in the Streets of Askelon Chapt 16 Their astonishment disgust at the apointment of Governor Shannon Let a beloved highly respected Minister be taken away from a congregation who have had every reason to respect love him his deportment practice [Page 61] life in every particular accords strictly with his profession theory as a man of God faithful Minister of the Gospel – the Church prospers under his pastorship every thing in connexion with the Church is flourishing – what would be the surprise disgust of the members of the Church if they found that through the Influence of a disgraceful Rabble not member of the church they should have their pastor taken from them replaced by a Man whose theory practice was most repugnant to their feelings conscience take another view of the case here is an individual who have been struggling against a disease very greivious to be born an eminent physician is recommended sent to him he soon begins to revive under the physicians proper salutary treatment of the disease rejoice in the hope of recovery, by some undercurrent means resorted to by his Enemys he is deprived of the services of this good physician a Quack Doctor takes his place through the deleterious bad effects of Nostrous the patient begins to lanquish die 3rd here is a General who have often led his troops to glorious victory he has but to wave his Sword cry forward they will follow him under the most apalling alarming circumstances because they have faith in their leader they love him they would die for him— [Page 62] now reverse the scene take away their leader replace him with one from the enemys ranks of whose charactor they have heard any thing but good why they can never hear of him never see him but in an Object of hatred disgust such is the Idea that the Settlers have of the present Governor forced upon them that many of the Settlements have bound themselves together by a solemn convention to have nothing to do with him what is the language of the settlers at lawrence Tecumpsee Ossawotamie Little Creek – Middle Creek – Sugar Creek Leavenworth a host of other settlements this man shall not reign over us Chap 17 The nature of Slavery in Missouri It is a notorious fact that Slavery as it exists in different parts of the States is but little known by those who reside in distant States were slavery does not exist during the authors residence in the far west he had an abundant opportunity of ascertaining the nature of Slavery in the States – he have had an opportunity of converseing with 100 Slaves all belonging to different masters the general account of the treatment they received was of a very mild nature they would say we have plenty to eat drink good place to sleep the married men sometimes single are allowed [Page 63] a piece of ground which they cultivate at odd times when not wanted by their master produce all kinds of vegetables green corn c the master lends them his team they proceed to the nearest market Town or city very quickly dispose of them to good advantage as the proprietors of Inns Hotels are glad to purchase their produce all the money they receive in this way is bonifide their own but they are expected to buy their Clothes with it leaving them a good overplus of Cash to do what they think proper with it not unfrequently happens with the married slave that the husband wife are seperated perhaps 10 miles apart – in cases of this kind the husband is allowed to visit his wife for 2 days in the week – it is frequently the case that a slave owner in possession of perhaps of 50 slaves will let them out as servants to tradesmen merchants farmers for so much per Annum so that the situation of the slave is quite as comfortable under their masters mistresses in Missouri as the situation of a servant in a free state with this Melancholy exception they are not their own they are bought with a price Once every year the slaves in Missouri have an holiday given them about Christmas or New Years when they meet together from all parts of the [Page 64] Country to enjoy themselves on these festive ocassions they frequently hire a large room for the purpose on one Ocassion the Author happened to be in the house when were they had hired a room for this purpose the question was asked of an elderly woman if they were all slaves she hung down her head as she answered Yes Sir we are all slaves – the Author took an oportunity of asking an elderly man between 60 70 years of age who had been in slavery in various parts of the South Virginia Carolina c if there was much difference in southern slavery western slavery he replied there was no comparison that there was as much difference as light darkness in Virginia other southern slave states the slave is always exposed to the power lash of the overseer but in Missouri their laborer is merely that of another farm servant exposed to no overseer or any thing of the kind 18 The Charactor of the Slave there The Idea that many of the advocates of Slavery profess to entertain of the Charactor organization of the Negro race is most preposterous disgraceful degrading to any individual who would dare to utter or give vent to any Idea of the kind [Page 65] that the Negro is not of the human race in Short that he is not a man but that he distinctly properly belongs to the baboon or monkey tribe to displace all this nonsense trash from the rational mind it is only requisite to become a little aquainted with them you will not only find that they are men but many of them possessed of great Sagacity but this the Author is ready to acknowlege that it is possible so to grind down crush Iron whip the poor African that if he was to be set at liberty in that wretched state the good policy of such proceeding might be questioned let a poor fellow of that description look at once goaded laceratin full of revenge he might become a terror to the neighborhood an object of dread- Chap 19 Different kinds of Slaves There is an old saying that have been frequently quoted many men of many mind many birds of many kinds there are slaves of many minds – slaves of many kind but those slaves who are of the most murderous Designing haughty Impetuous charactors will generrally be found among the Mixed breeds or Mulattos there appears to be a great proportion of the Spaniard or Italian Charactor mixed up in their Composition Dark Mysterious bloodthirsty [Page 66] Chap 20 State of the Climate in Kansas Territory The winters in the territory are exceedingly short but very severe generally commenceing in Jany ending by the first of April Snow very frequently commences in Jany continues more or less During the 3 Months with a Most tremendous wind which drifts the Snow from the hills various points of elevation with immense force down into the Valley below frequently 7 or 8 feet in depth with most intense bitter frost untill April when the weather assumes a milder more comfortable apearance in the wet season in the territory when the river banks frequently overflow to a very great Extent the rain descends not in gentle light fulminating showers but in Most tremendous driveing Showers which to those who are not initiated into the nature of such rain would feel very alarming dreadful not unfrequently there is a large quantity of hail of a most Gigantic Size falling with the rain that beats down on the Shingles of the cabin with Such force fierce frightful impetuosity that it will apear as though the roof was comeing in or falling through the hailstorm will last perhaps for an hour while the Rain will continue for a week or two sometimes these violent storms are frequently succeeded by warm weather June July August which is generally the hottest [Page 67] month in the Year when the heat will be frequently 95 - 100 sometimes 105 degrees above zero in the shade— yet during the hottest most opressive season there will be very heavy dews falling in the night which tends very much to bring forward the crops of all kinds with very great rapidity such is the nature of the soil Climate that every thing grows a most enormous size Chapr 21st Various Strikeing circumstances in the Authors Experience haveing built my cabin collected a great quantity of firewood against a time of need I hired an ox team with some difficulty (on account of the badness of the roads) proceeded to remove my goods Chattells Stove c from the boarding house to my Claim which generrally received the name of Mount Pisqah from the elevated nature of its position the unparellelled beauty of the landscape before the Cabin in fact all around haveing placed my house in order arrainged my furniture as I thought to the best Advantage fixed my Stove Pipe c in a safe position I proceeded to build my fire fetch my water to cook the supper I was very much struck with the grandeur of the scene the sun had gone down but the Moon was up [Page 68] beautifully walking in her brightness shineing solemnly yet most lovely through the thick foliage of the Magestick trees that thickly studded overshadowed river bank shining path on the clear waters of the noble stream like a beautious Globe of Molten Silver it was Saturday night the first night of my residence in the solititude loneliness of my Cabin I cooked my supper went to bed with feelings of great solemnity resting on my mind but when the night had passed away I had received a goodly portion of that refreshing influence produced by natures sweet restorer balmey sleep – I beheld the Glorious Sun of nature tipping the hills with Gold casting out his rays of light life through the windows of my otherwise solitary cabin – I began to be more Animated especially as the brief Chirpings of a hundred Songbirds Saluted my ears Cheered up my Spirits arose on a beautiful Sabbath Morning the 1st April the nearest Neighbour I had – one way was near 1 mile every other way was 2 miles or more. but although alone I endeavoured to press forward with the utmost energy to clear the brush that grew so thickly round my Cabin to dig up some rock build an hog pen with Stone to fill up the vacant places caused by the removal of the rock with some of the Choicest Mould or Soil I could [Page 69] get in addition to the very large garden I made when I had cleared away the brush c – I made a small garden before the door in which I planted various kinds of Melons green beans Peas Castor Beans c c every thing I planted apeared to thrive in beautiful order in addition to this I worked at my trade obtained a great amount of employment in that way one fine morning in the Spring as I was engaged in work an Indian of great Stature well armed rode up asked me if I knew who wanted to an horse as I knew a person who very much wanted one – at the same time I answered if he did not want to much for him I might become a purchaser – I then asked his price he said 30 Dollars this might not have been to much for the Poney as he was sound wind Limb 3 years old but as I had to sell him again obtain a little profit by the bargain I of course endeavoured to purchase him as cheap as I could the Indian was very little aqquainted with the English language consequently there was some difficulty in bringing the bargain to a conclusion we got down to 26 Dollars then to 24 at length to 22 after a considerable time had passed in trying to make out his broken language he came down to 20 Dollars ultimately to 18— [Page 70] finding he would come down no more I paid him 18 Dollars in Gold took my poney which was certainly a great bargain – the Individual whom I knew to be so much in want of an horse lived 2 miles from my place of residence but I instantly commenced my Journey to his house on arriveing there I found the Gentleman on whom I had my eye for the purchase of the horse at home I likewise found that he still wanted one I therefore informed him of the low price I could sell him this beautiful animal for but still he wanted to purchase him on a lower [xxx] still after much bantering on each side we struck a bargain with very little profit on my side as I expected ready money I did not receive but a note one in a week which week proved to my great disapointment loss to be 3 months then the man died I never received 1 cent for my splendid poney only a few tools c for which I would gladly have received one half the money I was to have for the poney thus this matter proved an unprofitable speculation for me in more points than one haveing depended on receiveing the ready money for the poney to [xxx] profitably in my business being disapointed therein it threw me back in other things thus I could trace a long train of disappointments [Page 71] Originating in the first now the Season began to advance the month of May came in with its fragrant evenings Rosey Morns the time to plow the prairie soil put in the corn began rapidly to make its aproach at the latter end of May I had nearly two Acres of prairie plowed Sowed with very fine Indian Corn which in one week spurnd forth through the sod looking very fine green so very exceedingly rich fertile is the soil of Kansas Territory about this time several settlers commenced what they call riseing their log cabins of this description can not possibly be done by one man therefore it is quite a customary thing to send word to the neighbours to let them know that such an individual intends to have a riseing on such a day when five or six persons sometimes more will attend give their very important services gratuitous it happened to be my lot to be called upon to be engaged in occupation of this description of Charactor very frequently which of Course I could never did never refuse although I was very frequently engaged in other occupations in June the prairie grass began to grow very luxuriantly fresh green I resolved therefore in my mind to purchase a Cow Calf the first Chance [Page 72] I had of makeing the purchase on reasonable terms Sometime after this hearing that a Gentleman who resided 6 miles from my cabin had some Cattle to dispose of that would be very likely to suit me I took the first opportunity of paying him a visit on this particular business I not only found that he had some to sell finding that he was more moderate in charges for Cattle I soon concluded to strike a bargain with him eventually purchased a very fine Cow beautiful heifer Calf it was on a most lovely evening that I brought them home to my cabin with very little trouble haveing previously provided a pen to put the calf in while I Milked the Cow – here I began to feel the difficulty of being alone although I tried every moenuvre I was Master of I could not capture for the moment I was prepareing to put the noose around her neck draw her into the Pen but she Instantly darted under the Cow who presented a Chivadefrieze of Cow horn which seemed to say stand of sir at your peril – therefore finding that I was not able to succeed in the undertakeing alone haveing no one to help me I was obliged although very reluctantly to give up the wary task [Page 73] I therefore put them both in some of the best of the pasture let the calf suck the Cow have all the Milk thinking that it would reconcile them to the place. I laid myself down to sleep as it was now night arose sometime before the Sun shed forth her Morning beams but lo behold to my great surprise disapointment Chagrin the Cow Calf had taken their departure not leaving a single trace of their track behind them I followed them in a direction I thought they were likely to pursue but all to no purpose over hill Dale I traversed asking every one I met concerning them but all to no purpose tired weary distressed in mind I returned to my cabin but haveing business to do at Ossawotamie as soon as I had eaten my breakfast I walked over to that settlement but not being able to settle my business with any degree of Satisfaction I returned back with an heavy heart the next day was Sunday on the Monday very early in the Morning I started on my Journey to the residence of the Gentleman of whom I purchased the lost cattle but soon a violent storm came on with blackness darkness all around so that I could not discern the road consequently wandered a mile to much west till I reached the house of a person I knew [Page 74] verry well who kindly asked me to breakfast as I was both wet hungry I accepted their invitation with great pleasure but just as I had finished my breakfast a man came in out of breath exclaiming have you heard the news we answered what news he replied Mr ------- was drowned yesterday in the river pottawotamie at the bottom of his garden I exclaimed dear me I have lost my cow Calf now Mr------ is drowned he owes me 20 Dollars – I then proceeded to the other place I made my inquirys but all to no purpose for they had not seen any thing of them but supposed they had gone back to the states from whence he had fetched them as he should be going down there again in a little time to purchase more cattle he thought it more than probable that he should find them for a certain sum of money would return them or a portion of the money I then instantly returned passed by my Cottage struck out for the settlement of Ossawatomie were Mr—had resided previous to his being drowned – soon after I arrived a great concourse of people Assembled a congregational Minister was there who presided on the ocassion an hymn was sung a prayer was offered up the corpse was taken 10 miles to the New baptist Mission burial ground as he was in his lifetime a member of the baptist Church so in death his body was buried in a baptist grave yard [Page 75] 8 of us that came out with him from the east followed him to the grave in the mean time a Sermon was preached in the house of the diseased at Ossawatomie to improv[xxx] his death Soon after this occurrence several cabins was built on the side of the river on which my cabin Stood one of them was ocupied by a Man his wife Child the wife was very sick when she entered the house anxious to get there although the house was not finished which was by no means an uncommon case but in a few days the Man who was previously of a Strong Constitution was stricken down to the point of death by the fever there was not water for more than a quarter of a mile of his house what was to be done the Man so sick that he could not move himself in his bed the wife so weak that she could not lift a pail of water a little boy not 3 years old – there was another person that lived rather more than a quarter of a mile from him in quite another direction a very good kind of Man – this person myself waited on him continually Milked his Cows fetched all his water with the grass wet with the Morning dew 5 feet high I was frequently so wet in fetching the water c that it would wash out from the tops of my boots time after time untill on account of being so frequently saturated with wet drying [Page 76] again on me instead of turning to Coughs Colds c as it generally will in the east it plunged me into a dreadful burning fever finding the fever comeing on very rapidly being aware of the consequences haveing no one to wait on me under those distressing circumstances I immediately locked up my cabin went to board with the same person alluded to before as the one who at the risk of his own life helped me to save the man from death he lived a little more than a mile from me but as there was no path the road lay through the high grass brush ravines it was not very easy of access but however through the Mercy of God I reached his house in safety I agreed to board with him for a month it proved very fortunate for me that I did so for I was soon visited with a very violent attack of fever the next day the landlord was attacked in the same way we both had to send for the doctor together soon after his child fell sick then his wife so that we were all sick together but in our sickness distress there was many kind friends who voluntered their services to sit up with us all night chop wood fetch water do any thing that was needful to be done for our comfort the saveing of our lives I continued to board there untill the expiration of my month when I left the landlord apeared just as bad as [Page 77] he was at the beginning Sometimes I would be a few days without the fever would gain a little strength but during the time I was there I received a bite from a snake on one foot from a venomous spider on the other which made me very thankful for the aid of a doctor which very opportunely arrived who tried every means to deaden the poison without effect untill he at length lanced hit the piece affected squeezed the blood from the wound which was quite black after washing the blood away aplying morphene to it the wound soon became on the mending order I had the great satisfaction of seeing it quite heal up but notwithstanding I was for some considerable time unable to put that foot to the ground without great pain but in process of time I thought I might venture to try walk in case of great immergency but circumstances events apeared to take a circuitous rout stand before me saying with great force energy here is an immergencey which will warrant you in makeing an effort to walk the case stood thus the parties where I boarded were down more of less with sickness they had very little appetite for any thing but vegetable now it so happened that they had not been sufficiently long in their cabin [xxx] any vegtables, but on my claim there was a [Page 78] profusion of every thing of the kind no one then to eat it feeling a great desire that their longing and craveing for vegetables should be satisfied I knowing that I had such an abundance I set out on my Journey with a boy to procure a good allowance for them but the grass was very high very difficult to get through by the time I had got my vegetables in the bag I was on my way back to my boarding house the sun was nearly down but still I pressed on with all my might (which was not much then) till at length the sun had withdrawn his rays from the earth altogether the world was enveloped in gloomy folds of darkness but still I proceeded by [xxx] to much westward lost my way altogether at length I heard what apeared to me the terrified sound of deep water gurgling with solemn potentious murmer at my feet forbidding me at the peril of my life to go one step further then I laid my weary body down in the dreary dark Prairie with the unpleasant consideration that I must have got very near home but just missed it all the horrors of a dark dreary night in the prairie glared forth like a tigers eye upon my mind but the dreary [xxx] dismal as they were did not come up to the dreadful reality as I had not lain down 5 minutes before a flood terrific gleam of Lightening glared along the Prairie gloom makeing the darkness apear more [Page 79] hideous cheerless accompanied by a most tremendous clap of thunder which shook the very prairie under me then the night of horror began fully to set in the rain descended in mighty tremendous torrents it reminded me of the flood that was sent in days of O.T. to destroy the world the fountains of the great deep apeared to be broken up the water to move up from beneath I thought I could say with the Psalmist literally keep [xxx] unto deep at the [xxx] of the waterspout all the waves go over me as turn which way I would I was overflown with water the cold chill there from mingling with the cold air of the night struck pain into my bones turn which way I would there apeared to be no rest to my distractive body to keep myself from being suffocated by the water I put my bag of vegetables on some stones thus was I through the goodness of God prevented from being suffocated by the flood but the thunder roared the lightening flashed the rain descended in liquid sheets untill the grey dawn of day apeared when the storm somewhat abated but bright Phoebus did not mount her Chariot any portion of the day but all was dismal dark dreary to me there was I continually weak hungry dripping with wet plungeing afresh into some ravine brook or rivulet there endeavouring to [Page 80] force my lonely way through thicket brush brier (tearing my clothes covering me with wounds from the thorns) to gain the summit of some Mountain from whence I might perceive some cabin or place of shelter to refresh brighten up my despairing mind but oh no all was dark [xxx] rained all the day at length weak wet hungry I laid me down on the Mountain to die I had no Opinion that I could live out the weary night I therefore pulled out my Pocket book to with a pencil wrote as follows I _______ was lost on the prairie near the settlement of Ossawatomie died on such a night 1855 as I had no opinion that I could out live another terrible night if any one should find the book would send on to my wife in the east according to the directions I had given say where I had died how they would receive the thanks of a dying man or I should feel under great obligation if they would inform some of my friends in Ossawatomie of my circumstances (whom I named) then putting the book under my head commended myself to God never expecting to see the light of another day but through the mercy of God I was preserved although brought close to the gates of death I was raised up [xxx] to the glory of his name the morning arose brighter than the previous one the dew rain drops shone forth as they tipped the prairie grass like pearls glistening in the [Page 81] rays of the Morning sun I thought I would try rise make another desperate effort to find my way to some place of refuge but I soon found my weakness hovering when nothing from the time I left the boarding house to that Morning save 3 small Mush Melons I fell down nearly as soon as I got up from weakness pain in my bones but as the sun shone out not a dark cloud apeared to forbode any rain I thought I would persevere to gain the next mountain untill I died thus be continual [illegible] falling down persevering [xxx] forward again with [xxx] effort I [illegible] in reaching a trail this of course gave me unspeakable pleasure as I was sure I was on the way to some place of residence either indian or white man I proceeded on this trail or path untill I met a gentleman on horseback with 2 boys that never forgot the Joy that the sight of a human being inspired me with in that dreary wilderness I soon told him my tale of distress egarly asked him how far it was to any house where I could get any food as I was dying with hunger thinking to inspire me with courage he informed me that I was only a mile from an house where I could get refreshment -- likewise that they were very clever people but however I found this mile to be 2 but as to the cleverness and kindness of the [Page 82] people he was quite correct – they received me with the greatest hospitality kindness they placed plenty of food before me but on account of my long abstinence from food my exceeding weak [xxx] of fever I thought it best to be very cautious in that particular especially as they informed me that I should have a good supper – they accordingly killed a fine fowl baked a large cake but fast as the fowl began to smell rather savoury the cake was baked we heard the ramble of carriage wheels the voice of some person saying have you a sick man here yes replied the landlord of the house is he inside – yes sir in another moment a very respectable gentleman from Ossawatomie who exclaimed Oh how glad I am to find you – are you ready to come back with me now rejoiced to find such a favourable opporttunity of getting back I answered in the affirmative turning round to my kind host hostess I asked how much I was indebted to them for their hospitality Oh nothing at all was the reply we are sure that if ever we stand in need of help it is in your power to help us you will do so after expressing my gratitude for their disinterested kindness I got into the Carriage was soon on my way to Ossawatomie which we reached soon after the sun went down arrived at his house [Page 83] after partakeing of a good supper went to rest in a feather bed (how different to the one I slept on the 2 nights before) I awoke to see a bright glorious morning so after breakfast the gentleman took me his carriage to my boarding house the landlord lady being very glad to see me once more alive during my absence there was a great sensation all over the Settlement as to what was become of me some said they thought I was murdered as several persons in the Settlement had raised the report that I was worth a Large sum of Money others supposed that I had fell into a ravine was drowned but no one imagined for a moment that I was alive Just as the gentleman of the name of Lewis that I met on the prairie was stating where he had been as to where a company was being formed to search the river by means of a drag Sometime after that I met with an accident from a calf whom the cow had forsaken he was taken out from the pen staked out in the prairie by day as my landlord weak feeble [xxx] from the fever c proceeded to put him back again into the pen he became very furious jumped backward forward greatly lacerated by haveing the rope twisted between his legs being very strong he soon threw my [Page 84] my [sic] worthy landlord on his back he instantly called out to me to assist him but on my arriveing seizing the rope he managed to get the rope twisted round me pulling with that force that I surely thought he would have torn me asunder but my landlord seized the rope at that juncture with super human energy jerked the rope from of me which was a great although I still feel the bad effects of it shall no doubt to the day of my death Sometime previous to this circumstance I heard that my Cow Calf had been found 40 miles distant had been brought back to Ossawatomie sold again but that the person who purchased them was sick could not attend to them consequently consigned them to the care of a person who had several cows c of his own on hearing this I applied to the person but after asking several questions concerning them could not obtain very satisfactory answers as they was removed to the residence of the owner I was determined to go there to satisfy myself on arriveing at the place looking for a moment at them I was quite satisfied they were the renegades I accordingly went into the house informed the gentleman of the circumstance who said he had heard something of the circumstance [Page 85] I likewise stated that the gentleman from whom he had purchased them wished me to go to him respecting them on receiving this information I was at a loss how to act as I know I could not wait but in a few days a gentleman on horseback called to see my landlord who was still very sick I stated my case to him the difficulty I was in he very kindly offered me the loan of his horse to prosecute my Journey the way lay through the wild prairie without any path whatever the grass was 6 feet high I could not get the horse out of a walk as he would continue eating all the way so that his progress was very little more that a mile per hour we had a vast number of ravines to cross which made the Journey exceedingly tedious at length I arrived at the house found the gentleman at home but he had Just recovered from an attack of the fever had no money but faithfully promised on the word of a gentleman that he would pay it me in 3 days I then took my departure for home but made very little progress but at length after finding my patience very near I arrived at a ravine about 2 miles from my boarding house I had been very cautious in takeing him over every other ravine to walk him quietly down [Page 86] up again but on this ocasion he took it into his head to try a leap but in doing so he failed fell part on the bank part down the bank immedeately on seeing his situation threw myself from his back whereupon he immediately sprang up finding one of my feet in the stirrup became frightened galloped of dragging me along the ground till at length my foot became disentangled from the Stirrup I was left in a bruised condition on the wild prairie with the dark shades of Evening closeing around me bruised beaten not knowing were I was Oh what was my feeling to have another night in the dewy grass with the terrible Musquitos in countless myriads around ready to devour me the cold wind sweeping through the tall dewey grass the prairie Nightengale singing his Short Song of 8 notes very monotonous all the night long no sleep for me how did I long for the Morning light that I might find some habitation at length the long sought for Morning dawned on looking through the long grass I could see at the distance of mile a cabin lying in the open prairie but to wade through the wet grass as high as my head I knew by painful experience what that was to my sorrow there was no other way [Page 87] to get to the cabin I was Cold whet hungry bruised so I commenced my Journey reached the Cabin just as the good lady was prepareing for breakfast after stateing my case mine host asked me what he should do for me I informed him he would oblige me by getting me some breakfast as I was very wet bruised hungry to which he assented with the utmost willingness but before we sat down to breakfast (as he was a professor of religion I hope a true Christian) he engaged in family worship never shall I forget how the time which they sang echoed over the wide prairie seemed to me that the desert did bloom blossom as the rose the wilderness did become as the fruitful field we then partook of a good substantial breakfast then the Master of the house prepared for a Journey to the Settlement which was about 4 miles he asked me if he should take me to my Claim which was mile out of his road but I readily accepted of his offer to go in the light waggon as I was very sensible of my unability to walk the distance as he promised so he performed kindly set me down at the door of my Cottage I then went down to the river fetched me up 2 quarts of water it was fortunate that I did for I was immediately Smitten down with the fever in consequence of getting [Page 88] so wet in the morning as it is not in the prairie as it is in the east where every thing of the kind turn to a cold cough or consumption but in the territory it is all fever so there I lay burning with thirst no one to attend to me no one to get me any thing all the day or all the night in the morning I directed my trembling steps to the threshold of my boarding house on my arrival there I expected to have my mind pained excited by hearing remarks made concerning the horse so I immediately gave them to understand that I did not wish to have my mind pained by any remarks made in respect to the circumstance as it was no fault whatever of mine I nearly lost my life twice through the horse I believed from the direction he apeared to take that he was gone home no one regretted the circumstance more than I did experienced so much bodily mental suffering in consequence as the owner of the horse was a man I very much respected a good man but although I made these precautionary remarks I could perceive once in a while an inclination to break through but however they managed it tolerably well my mind was not so much pained Respecting it as I expected but now my month was nearly expired I was [Page 89] Still the Subject of the dreadful burning fever although I had been for more than 40 years in possession of the strongest constitution yes I now felt weak helpless as a little Child I would here remark that although I could attribute the fever all its long train of consequences to no other Source than to getting so thoroughly wet in procuring water c for a certain Individual before alluded to it is a remarkable coincidence that my landlord (who I believe was a Real good man as far as human goodness goes) laid all his affliction, fever c with all the long train of consequences Doctors bill c to the same ungrateful Source – for it is a certain fact that this same man who was restored to health the same time that we was taken sick never was grateful enough to come see whether we was dead or alive with the exception of one time when he received a letter for my landlord with express orders to deliver it immediately as it contained money but this rascal this ungrateful villain was very particular in going to my Claim pulling down one whole side of railing When he came with the letter he apeared highly delighted (I was not there at the time being gone to the Settlement with the thought as he expressed it that some dogs or wolves had been about my Cabin that hogs c had got into my barn made great havoc therein [Page 90] on the morning of my departure from my host hostess to the Inn in Ossawotamie preparatory to my Journey as I then intended to St Louis to stay a while they was attentive in endeavouring to provide me with those things that they considered I should want in my Journey so when every thing was fixed up in this particular matter I commenced my Journey to the Inn being nearly 4 miles the heat very opressive being at that time more than 100 degrees but I had not proceeded more than mile from the house when in this tremendous heat in the open prairie a load on my back I was struck down with the most violent raging fever I recollected that I could not be far from a ravine where I hoped there would be some water I crawled on my hands knees to the ravine (as I could not walk) were to my Joy I found water good water but Oh what was my sufferings from the effects of the broiling sun darting down his scorching browning withering Rays on my face Surrounded by Myriads of those cruel unrelenting Tormenting beings Mosqutos who lacerated me all over with their bills in addition to this the fever was burning within resembling a red hot fire ball in my throat scorching up all the water [Page 91] which I poured upon it every 3 minutes I Suppose I drank 2 Gallons of water but the fire of the raging fever seemed to absorb it all –this torture although mingled with mercy [xxxurateing] circumstances continued all day untill the pearly dewdrops from the tall Spring prairie grass now another night – on the prairie Oh when I thought on this what a cold Shiver ran through my burning frame but God in his goodness preserved me through that long long night also to see another day then I took up my burdens began to resume my Journey but here I found my weakness again after walking some distance I had to lay my burden down proceed without it to a cottage about a mile of where I found a lad whom I paid to fetch my luggage take it to the Inn I found the Landlord landlady very kind attentive I had several severe attacks of fever while there waiting for the stage to take me down to Kansas City which reduced me to the last stage of extremity of weakness so that I could scarcely stand in fact while waiting for the stage on the Monday I was obliged to be on the ground from weakness ariseing from the fever I should have observed that the gentleman who so faithfully promised to pay me for the Cow Calf on the Saturday did not prove true to his word [Page 92] they said that he was sick but still he might have sent it as he had plenty of boys about the house doing nothing consequently I was obliged to sell the debt loseing a Dollar on it which dollar I intended to give to the person of whom I borrowed the horse as I understood he was in low circumstances I thus through the cattledealer proveing false to his word I was disapointed of the pleasure I should have felt in so doing on the Monday I set out in the stage for Kansas city provideing myself with a large vessell to hold plenty of water in case of a fresh Attack of fever haveing a good opportunity of getting a fresh supply of water at every Creek on the road the first day I had a Slight attack of fever when I found the water very beneficial we rattled along for 35 miles the first day had very comfortable accommodations at a farmers house on the road who had married a squaw in consequence had Jumped into a paradise of an estate there was a beautiful plantation of Apples with a much larger one of Peaches there was thousands thousands of baskets of peaches spread out on large boards fixed on [xxx] to dry a good supper of Prairie Chicken c but I was to sick to partake of it although as I advanced on my Journey I found my health to improve very much [Page 93] in the Morning I was much better eat a very good breakfast then we proceeded on our Journey but the Horses of which we had four had not proceeded far when they got fixed fast in a mud hole which I guess had been neglected from week to week not repaired untill it assumed a very formidable apearance so much so that though the whip was stoutly applied to the horses hides 3 strong shoulders applied to the wheels yet the wheel horses were so disinclined to pull so much inclined to push back that we was most unpleasantly detained for 2 Hours Chapt 22 A brief history of the life death of some of the Emigrants who came out with the Author who Died in the Settlement The first person on whose history or life death I shall make a few remarks hath several relatives in the territory out of the territory still living who might not like to have the name brought before the public in a work of any kind so out of regard to their feelings I have refrained from so doing here I would notice that in cases where I have not [Page 94] Stated names is not because it is not strictly true but because the Charactors are still liveing this Author would likewise beg leave to State here that what he has to say in reference to the departed however brief it may be he had from their own lips The first person that I Shall notice whose Spirit hath fled into the eternal who likewise came out with me was a gentleman aged 47 – reputed to be rich in this worlds goods bearing a good reputation he professed to be a religious man the profession was that of a baptist he was an industrious man late early he would be engaged in active employment neither was he frightened at hard work either under the pierceing rays of a Summers Sun or when Stern boreas blew her blast of frozen Snow over the desolate prairie oft have I seen him although the Magistrate of the Settlement toiling through the drifting snow with thick Mittens a trusty Staff in his hand his face swelled purple with the north wind his chief fault apeared to be this [xxx] in makeing many purchases of various kinds when he had no cash at all in the Settlement his creditors wanted the money but no money could be had every person that knew him said that he had thousands of dollars [Page 95] in the States there it remained very much to the Injury of his creditors here he was undoubtedly to blame as he nor any other man of property had a right to get into debt unless that property his so far Available that he can pay his creditors at the apointed time he was born in Cornwall in the far west of England he was brought up in the farming line it apears his parents were wealthy but his father being a Man of great Stature Inodiguris unparalleled Strength very passionate easily excited was nearly always engaged in lawsuits broils of that description he would think nothing of knocking a man down from the top of one of his highest hay or wheat ricks on Stamping under his ponderous feet a Carter or Carter boy Such freaks as this so frequently carried on would have a very powerful influence on the loseing side of his cash Capital neither would the effect of this rash passion be confined his work people or neighbours but his family frequently would have to feel very much to their sorrow the weight of his powerful arm or foot (for he was not very nice about the matter which he made use of) in a moment of rage passion [Page 96] the Subject of these remarks have told me more than once for some petty offense frequently for no offence at all he would be felled to the ground often times he would have to treat parties very handsomely when his passion cooled down or bribe them heavily that they should not carry the matter into a court of law it is quite natural to suppose that a charactor of this description as he grew older his pocket got lower would get detested by all who knew him this was precisely the case with him finding that every one around dispised him avoided his company he went to Canada Sometime after sent for the subject of these remarks who at that time was a stout youth of 18 – who felt very much in leaving his mother behind who might well be ranked among the best of women a martyr to Christianity her Spirit was a spirit of perfect meekness after her husband had beaten her tyed her up with other ill usage to keep her from the means of Grace She would go about her household work with all that Cheerfulness a lacrity as though nothing had happened when her husband had left her with a large family to Struggle along as she might yet when in after years he sent for her to come to him she forgetting all that had past set soil for Canada by [Page 97] by way of the United States but soon after she landed at New York she had the misfortune to break her leg thus was she delayed in her efforts to reach her husband untill she heard of his death this operated so powerfully upon her mind that in a few months she died also the subject of these remarks who for the future I shall call John remained in canada obtained employment for some years as a builder then comeing to New York State learned the business of a baker Pastry cook confectioner Marryed a wife of great business parts little more than a twelve month since there was a great stir concerning emigration to Kansas territory believeing that he should be of considerable Service in forming a settlement besides increasing his own wealth perhaps thinking he should by his example reform reform [sic] the morals of the people for he was very particular in haveing family worship to God Morning evening this he continued the very morning that he met with his death by going out of his depth in a river at the bottom of his garden where he was accustomed to bathe the Next is J. Dedan Swift it is Supposed that he was baptized in the name of Dean Swift but not likeing the name he put the letter D in of his own accord – he was a younger Son of a [Page 98] respectable Cutler in the town of Sheffield in England on the death of the Old gentleman the property fell to the elder brother James not being pleased with this at all being married at the same time to a Quakeress with a family of 3 Children not liveing very happy with his wife he went to his brother got him to give him out of the bulk of the property 2 Thousand Pounds with which he came to America to mend his fortune but alas he entered into the cutlery business entered into partnership with a man who robbed him of the most of his Stock decamped soon after a fire entered into the buildings destroyed all the rest leaving him with scarce enough to pay his passage to England on his arrival he went to his brother telling him of his losses implored his help once more receives another Thousand from him that he would not trouble him again come what there might be in the course of a few months after his return on going down broadway his attention was attracted by these words Oh for Kansas he Immediately turned what he had into money departed for the far west he had taken a Claim built his Cabin when he was taken with the fever he continued nearly 2 weeks at his boarding house then removed the other side of the river for fresh air he wished to see me before he died but when I arrived he was Speechless in hour he was a Corpse The End