aS cs paso a Re TD : Sa eS JOC SALES REI @ att Pes LGETEE foorrn er eh ioe SE ERB ape woe a es ES se ¥ Sy Maer — Sle ert { THE PUBLIC AND PULLMAN DINING CARS Practice Better Than Preaching. THE EXPERIENCE OF THOSE WHO HAVE USED THEM. THE VERDICT ALL ONE WAY. They. .Aare Tsiked By Eitwerybody. BECAUSE NO ONE IS ALLOWED TO SLEEP IN THEM. + The Voice of the Press: [The Chicago Times, June 17th, 1877.] Dining Cars vs. (So-Called) Hotel Cars. Come one, come all, This rock shall fly From its firm base as soon as I. —Hitz-James in ‘Lady of the Lake.” The subject of feeding the traveling public, upon the longest lines of railway so common in this country, has been a question among railway men requiring much thought and experiment. Every one who has traveled (and who has not?) has experienced the discomfort of the lunch-counter business, and railway eating-houses in general. Then came the so-called hotel car, which, after a thorough trial, was finally discarded upon all of the principal railways which had adopted it. The so-called hotel car is one where you eat, drink, sleep and bathe in the same coach, and is misnamed. How ridiculous woulda hotel appear with the sleeping couches arranged around the sides of the dining- room! For while some of the occupants—those early birds who delight to be up with the sun—are endeavoring to enjoy their morning meal, others, more dilatory, are slashing water around in the wash-room corner, or are passing back and forth through the room half dressed ; while others, again, prefer to take that last turn-oyer nap in the morning, alter the first awakening, which we all love so well. Then again, while our highly flavored sable attendant is gracefully awaiting your order, ‘‘a la carte,” the knowledge that he sleeps in the buttery, Ob, faugh! Can your sensitiveness stomach it? I think I hear you say, ‘No hotel car for me.” But the question is solyed. The management of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railway long since adopted the world-renowned PULLMAN SIXTEEN-WHEEL DINING CAR upon their California Express Trains, which experience has taught them, from the plaudits of the press and grateful public from ocean to ocean, that they have found the great desideratum so long looked after by the way-worn traveler, who is ever alive to his own comfort, and can relish a good meal when appetite is sharpened by riding on the rail. These superb dining palaces on wheels are used for no other purpose but to feed the hungry, and to which all have access; the farmer or merchant, miner or millionaire, all alike are welcome and all alike receive that cordial, courteous, gentlemanly attention which has become a synonym ofa C. B. & Q. employe. These cars, although Pullman’s longest and best, are run by the railroad company without regard to the cost of the Zable de Hote. They are not intended to be a source of revenue, hence are not used for passage trafiic or sleeping purposes, and of consequence, are always kept sweet, neat and clean, with an elaborate cuisine, giving all the luxuries of the season that the markets afford. Their ventilation is superb, and no disagreeable fumes from the kitchen permeate the air. The menw is ample to satisfy the epicurean taste of the most fastidious, and all for the moderate charge of 75 cents for each meal. ‘YOU WILL FIND TICKETS AT ALL OFFICES OF CENTRAL PACIFIC R. R., VIA BURLINGTON ROUTE. noes ae sateen inden er ereeermee st renee MONS Eom 0 tg WRENN IW CHICAGO, {eS DO NOT FAIL TO STOP AT THE OLD-TIME Se) BRIGGS HOUee + a Ss | mM UL Le Hl if iit ch = 3 EI | LOCATED ON THE ORIGINAL SITE, . RANDOLPH STREET, CORNER FIFTH AVENUE, CHICAGO, ILL. oer This is one of the largest Hotels in the City or the West—having hot and cold water in every room, and all the modern improvements, passenger elevator, suites of | rooms, etc., while the charges have been reduced to the nominal price of only $2.00 | to $2.50 per day. | J. E- Cummines, Chief Clerk. J, H. CUMMINGS, _ Proprietor. | THE CHEAPEST AND BEST GUIDE BOOK IN THE WORLD. ORORULIITS NEW OVERLAND TOURDST —AND— Paciric Coast GuIDE —CONTAINS— Nearly 100 Magnificent Illustrations ' Of Scenery in Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, Montana, Oregon, Nevada and California; authentic descriptions of over 1,200 Cities, Towns, Villages, Government Forts and Camps, Mountains, Lakes, Rivers, Sulphur, Soda and Hot Springs, Watering Places, Summer Resorts, where to Hunt, Fish, etc., etc., along the line of the Union, Central, and Southern Pacific Railroads From the Missouri River, West to San Francisco, thence Southward and Eastward to Yuma, in Arizona. Notonly every city, town, village and station, on the above named railroads, are described, but on every connecting Railroad and threughout the whole tributary country—hundreds of miles on each side. . The following railroads are the principal connections, together with a score of smaller ones: COLORADO CENTRAL,—DENVER PACIFIC, REPUBLICAN VALLEY,—-SAN FRANCISCO & NORTH PACIFIC COAST,— UTAH NORTHERN,—UTAH CENTRAL, UTAH WHSTERN, —- AMERICAN FORK,— WASATCH & JORDAN VALLEY,—BRIGHAM CANYON,——EUREKA & PALISADE,—UTAH SOUTHERN,—NEVADA COUNTY,—NAPA VALLEY, ——-VIRGINIA & TRUCKEE, —- NORTHERN, —— CALIFORNIA PACIFIC,-— STOCKTON & VISALIA,_SOUTHERN PACIF10,—_SACRAMENTO VALLEY,—— SAN FRANCISCO & NORTH PACIFIOC,—STOCKTON & COPPEROPOLIS,— CALIFORNIA NORTHERN, and many others of lesser note. Also UP and DOWN the SACRAMENTO RIVER by STEAMER, AROUND SAN FRANCISCO BAY and UP the COLORADO RIVER. This book takes the tourist on the longest trip of any guide in the world, and records a tele- gram of the most important facts and items of information. The route is over the broadest plains, the loftiest mountains, the finest agricultural and grazing lands ; and the most barren deserts. The scenery is wonderful; at one time on the brink of a chasm, 2,500 feet in depth, then beside a Dome 6,000 feet in height; at another time on a mountain 9,339 feet above and then 266 below sea level. The tourist takes breakfast amid the eternal snow, and supper in the land of perpetual summer; gliding down from above “‘timber line’ into a region of continuous bloom, where the luscious fruits ripen each day in the year,—even unto the orange groves and vineyards of the ‘‘Land of the Angels.” Price: Full Cloth Binding, g 1; Flexible, 75 Cents. NOW ts the time to buy a copy from the NEWS-AGENT ; Should he be out, copies will be mailed to any address in the world, on receipt of the price, and postpaid to any part of the Unirep Srares and Canapa. THE OVERLAND PUB. CO,, Publishers, ASHLAND BLOCK, —No. 24.— Chicago, Tl. POLD ON THE CARS, - ANNOUNCEMENT. The Overland Publishing Company Lave now cx preparation a | Sevees of Lllustrated Descriptive Hand-Books, entitled Crofutt’s Utah and the Great Basin; Crofutt’s Colorado and New Mexico; Crofutt in the Black Hills, Flow he got there, and what ts to be seen; Crofutt Beyond the Sierras, wncluding Southern California and Arizona. T hese four Books, together with the ‘OVERLAND? will contath over $25,000 worth of tllustrateons, and will embrace a full and conuplete description of the resources of these States and Territories, in Mines, Rattroads, A gricultural, Pastoral | and other pursutts, including scenery, resorts for health and pleasure, hunting, fishing, etc, etc. These Books will be in uniform Editions, 2n size and bind- ing, and will retail for the half of the ‘Daddys’ Dollar? THE OVERLAND PUBLISHING CO., ASHLAND BLOCK, Chicago, Il. —No. 24.— a BLAKELY & BROWN, PRINTERS, CHICAGO Doxouuz & Hunyzverry, Bryogers. UTAH’S BEST CROP. We were all little jokers once. Photographed from life, by Savaen, Salt Lake City. CROFURLS NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ——_AND—— . Paciric COAST ——— Sold by News Agents on the Railroads, at News-Stands, and at the Book-Stores throughout the United States. Barratow Bros., General News Agents, Union Pacific Railroad, Burlington & Missouri River R, R.in Neb., Missour, Kansas & Texas | R. RB, Kansas Pacific Railway, and Colorado Central R, R. | | Ent 8, Dentson, General News Agent, Central and Southern Pacific Railroads, Gen’l Agt. for the Pacific Coast, Sacramento and San Francisco. ES | E ee ntered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by Tax Oveuanp Pustisuine Co.,in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. PREFACE. 1878-9. With the world as the book of nature, God as the author, and the Bible as a preface, the precedent for writing a preface is established ; and woe be to the Scribe who ignores precedent and custom—he could not live on this planet. At the present day the preface of a book is read by the public—if at all—in the light of an apology, wherein the author is expected to explain: first, why he did not do better; and, second, why he wrote at all. Frrst—We have spared neither time, pains, nor money to make this a perfect book. Our statements are concise, plain, unadorned, and, we believe, truthful in every particular. Yet, we would shudder at the charge of being absolutely perfect. Srconp—We wrote this book for Money and Love. For Monry to help the poor. For Love of the far western country—the land of the ‘Golden Fleece.’ For love of its broad plains and lofty mountains, its free pure air, healthful climate, magnificent scenery, unrivalled resources, and its unaffected, whole-souled people. We have taken the traveler with us—in a chatty way—on the longest trip ever at- tempted by any author in any guide book in the world, and have recorded a telegram of the most important facts and items of information in a trip of 5,493 miles by rail, and 792 miles by steamer, aggregating 6,285 miles, besides over 1,000 miles by stage coach. We have passed over the longest railroad line in the world, the broadest plains, the loftiest mountains, the finest agricultural and grazing lands, and the most barren des- erts; we have climbed from sunrise to eternal snow, only to glide down into perpetual summer, and the orange groves and vineyards of the “ Land of the Angels.” ‘We have crossed a level prairie 500 miles in width, then over the most rugged mountains, with frightful chasms almost beneath us, 2,500 feet in depth; and through 100 miles of snow-sheds and tunnels. Again, we have stood beneath a dome rising 6,000 feet above our heads, and trees 400 feet in height, and 48 feet in diameter; have strolled amid the redwoods, where they grow so thick that were they felled, the ground would be covered to a depth of sixty feet. We have passed through the celebrated Hecho, Weber, Humboldt, and Solidad canyons; around “Capr Horn’ and the “ Dead Sea,” down the Better and over the Green and Black waters, echoing near the “ Devil's Slide” and the great “ Sink” of the Desert; descended into total darkness, with jets of boiling sulphur on either hand, and finally through the Drvin’s Gars, but landing safely at the GOLDEN GATE. The scenery on this route has been the most varied; we have been 9,389 feet above, and 266 feet below sea-level; have taken our breakfast amid the eternal snow, and our supper in a land of perpetual summer, and have glided down from far above timber line into a region of continuous bloom, where the luscious fruits ripen each day of the year. The author first began his explorations of the Trans-Mississippi country in 1860, as a “Pilgrim,” and upon the completion of the Pacific railroad-line, wrote the first descriptive guide of the roads—from actual observation—the “Great Trans-Continental Railroad Guide” of 1869. Soon “Crofutt’s Tourist’? followed, the publication of which was continued thereafter. The popularity of these books was so great that the sale aggregated 344,000 copies. The present book describes more than three times the extent of country of any book heretofore published, and is profusely illustrated by: nearly 100 beautiful engravings, most of which were photographed, designed, drawn, and engraved expressly for the author of this work. AnnEx—A department in the back part of this book, originated by the author, under which will be found a mass of condensed information, indirectly pertaining to the subject-matter of this work—and under which will be found full descriptions of all the large, double-page illustrations contained in this, our new book. From the first issue of our book, in 1869, imitators have been numerous; no less than twenty-five “ Guide-books,” Tourists’ Hand-books,” and “ Books of Travels Across the Continent,” etc., etc., have been issued, most of which were compiled in the East— without their compilers traveling over one foot of the route or at least not spending more than a few days on the road—while we have spent the best part of every year since 1860 acquiring the information,—every item of which we are prepared to verify, To newspaper correspondents across the continent, our books have proved a per- petual “ God-send,” enabling them to minutely describe the wonders of the trip passed in the night, while sleeping soundly in a palace car, equally as well as though they were awake and in perpetual daylight. Now we do not mean to complain of these flighty journalists, as they are all “good fellows,” but we do expect the courtesies usually extended by all honorable writers. GEO. A. CROPUTT. Curcaao, Tuu., April, 1878. GHNEHRAT INDEX: LARGE VIEWS. ILLUSTRATIONS, y Pace. Summit of the Mountains.... 73 i No. PAGE.| Forest View, Foot Hill Coun’y 7% American Progress........:. 1| Utah’s Best Crop...Frontispiece| Yo:-Semite Falls....... sess. TT Castellated Rocks at Green Bird's Eye View ofthe Plains 27/Pirst Steam Train.... ....... 82 ERAV Olan ts alee cle seo vec cc 2}Hanging Rock, Am. Fork.... 29) Devil's Gate, Weber Canyon. 88 Clear Creek Canyon........- 3|Sidney Dillon, of U.P. R.R.. 81) Interior View Snow Shed.... 85 Boulder Canyon...............-4)/Missouri River Bridge....... 35) Overland Pony Express... . 7 Garden ofthe Gods........... 5|Grand Central Hotel..... ... 7| Palisades of the Humboldt... 91 Steamboat Rock, Echo...... 6|Hanging Rock, Echo Canyon 39)Crossing the ‘‘Range’’ on Valley of the Yellowstone.. . 7|High School, Omaha......... Snow Skates.....32 0.2... 93 Fails of the Yellowstone..... 8)Devil’s Slide, Weber Canyon. 45) Seals and Sea Lions..... .... 99 Falls of the Williamette........ 9| Crossing Sangre deChristo Mt 47] Snow Galleries..............- 101 Cape Horn, Columbia River. 10)Dale Creek Bridge. ........ 49) View of Salt Lake City......- 103 Wood Hauling in Nevada.... 11)Profile Map, U.P. R.R.... .. 53) Starvation Camp............ 105 Mirror Lake, Yo-Semite aioe 12) Finger Rock, Weber.........- 55] Crossing the Truckee River.. 167 Nevada Falls, Yo-Semite..... 13)/Monument Rock, Black Hills 57 Mining Map of Utah......... 109 Summit Sierras.............. 14)Down the Weber Rivor...... 59| James Bride@er ....,: ccc cone LEL Mt. Shasta, California... .... 15|Wash-a-kie—“ big chief’..... 61] Pricky, the Horned Toad..... 115 State Capital of California... 16) Burning Rock Cut........... 65) Pulpit Rock, Echo Canyon.. 117 The Geyser, California....... Iv|Big Mule Team... .......... 67/One Thousand Mile Tree..... 118 San Francisco and Surround- Mormon Temple. « «cmos cues: INOC ees Peta ee Ringe sees 18) Donner Lake Boating Party.. WG MMACIG, ony oe 69| Interior View Mormon Taber- ay GIN ERAT TIN DD Eixs—Corrinvep. ILLUSTRATE Rehr Pagn.: Cee Paqu, Montana ........ 0.00.0... . 140/No. 34 Roll’Em Through.... 316 Brigham Young.............. jos|wucca Palm,.... ..........0; B4ll “85 ene! of the Yel lows’ e pe Mormon “Holiness to the |The Sweetwater Country...:. 108] “ 36 Falls 317 Lord’ 2) ee 125 Hetes Park, Col...,; ........; 66)“ 87 be co wit ette 317 Walker House, Salt Lake... g|One Thousand Mile Tree .... 118] “ 38 Cape Horn... 0.6.6.5 317 Brigham Young's Residence. a Devil's Slide....... ........ . 119] ‘“* 89 Wood Hauling ..... . 317 Hlagie Gate.........ss00iees0- 433 |Courthouse Boek: Wea vieateliets 6 56] “* 40 Mirror Lake,......... ae Datorin the Palisades. oe 137|Chimney Rock ................ 66] ‘ 41 Pony Express......... 317 Leland Stanford, of C. P. R.R 141|Prairie Dogs .. seeee ees 56} ** 42 Sierra Nevada Moun’s ae Profile map of C. PRR j44|Fremont’s Orchard . docedcasec 57 ** 43 Mt. Shasta.:......... 818 Mhe Last Spike.............-. 14g| Woman Jury.............000. e ‘“* 44 Woodward Gardens... 318 Indians Watching the Pacific Laramie Plains.............. “ 45 The Geysers.......... 318 Wailroad:...........-...... 153|The Snowy Range........63 to 98 ‘« 46 Bird’s Hye View...... 319 American River Canyon ..... WRT Uta sceesecc pce os veces se eee tes 121} “© 47% Schedule of Fare...... 819 The Maiden’s Grave.......... 160/fbe Last Spike .............. 144] “ 48 Viewing Progress .... 319 Truckee River............... ie Virginia Dale... 2... <3 << 92] ** 49 Palace Hotel.......... 320 Snow Sheds............. "77" aq/Col. Powell’s Expedition . wee Be ‘“ 650 Fares to Black Hills.. 220 Before the Railroad.......... i73|H#xcursions No. 1........ .... “ 51 Books Worth Buying. 820 BUCK. tipo snse seen elu on 2 pees rane a ee tele aetna First Mountain Mxpress...... 179] |. |. Geeeerece wcie'e 6 See oute to Yo-Semite.... Hyieaewaine ie ut ee « 224| “84 Our Artista. 2.00.00... 821 pounce Cape Horn. -2 186 ba BO Be Getviae aca © wo BRT Qi 55 Sno na cece ae ooking up at Cape Horn. ... 189 ery and Random Shots.... 32 Picouek Cut bie avieeuegecee 195 ANNEX INDEX. : Map of Routes in California. po Commence page—300 to 324. RAILROADS. lvermore Pass Tunnel...... i i . Palace Hotel.........- 45.5 BigiNo. 1 American Progross... B00|, eu Cen FOUK...-.---.-+ »+. 130 Seal Rocks and Pacific Ocean 219 5 Passage Ticket Memo. on 00Singham Guan, pincers yess: 205 Crossing the **Loop”........ 933|‘¢ 8 Baggage Check “ 800) url rt ipae ee ag 127 Bird’s Hye View ofthe “Loop”? 239] ‘ ‘ Rates of Fare......... 01 Bay ne om and Missouri..... 46 Yucca Bain ne HOOD” Bel § Our Western Country 201 Come Pee ee aa San Pedro's Wife... 0.0... e47| ‘¢ 5 The Far West, ....... 80%| Colorado Central... csc. vil Orange Orchard and Palms.. 256] ‘S 5 Allis Chaneed Uaees ss 021 Gelifor 0 Ea, We seede vane pecs 6 Cattle Brands....... ae 313] ‘* 5 Condensed History.. 308 Jalifornia Pacific............. 200 “ 5 Organization of P. RR. 303 California Northern.......... 194 MISCELLANEOUS. + § Land Grant........... 303 Denver ° Bi. peep seeeeeee F : “ 5 Gostof Construction... 304/Denver io Grande....... ets Routes East of Mo. River ‘© 5. Importance of Road. ee Denver Pacific ........ -.5..% 88 PROM Gs foes Wee oes ss 27 to 30 Road. 3... o4/Penver, South Park & Pacific 79 PRUNVGR ME. vc cce we eetincee'e vee 28] “ 5 Facts in Brief aT 304 Hurek & Palisade............ 156 Sketch of Sidney Dillon...... 31] “ 5 Grumblers.. ** 305|/2temont & Hlichorn ... .... - 4 Missouri River Bridge ....... 34] 6 High School.......... - 305|Kaneas Pacific. ........ 79 Snake River Pags............ 7%5]/°* 9% First Steam Train.... 305 Los Angeles & Independence 245 Gray’s Peak...... wee cence cs 761% § Who MR@ronc Tree.... 305 Monterey & Selinus.......... 232 Midtle Park, Col.. ... %6| 8 The Manzanita....... 305| North Pacific Coast.......... 224 Narrow Guage. ve . .. 78] 9 Books Worth Buying.. 205 Northern. 2.2.2.0... ce es cece 200 Giant's Cave.. , 184] © 10 Jack Slado......-... 306) Nevada County.......... ... 187 Colorado..... -.. 62] 11 Boulder Canyon...... 306 Omaha & Northwestern,..... 37 White Pine.... ... 158] * 12 Hanging Rock, Cal... 306 Omaha & Plattsmouth....... 37 American Desert. 5 .. 148] ** 43 Snow D fliculties fs 306 Prismoildal. . 2... Gesceoes 5c 223 Water aypnen. ie .. 1721 “© 14 Garden ofthe Gods... 307 Republican Valleys. sc. 225 . 40 Marysville Buttes . "") 195] © 45 State Capital of Cal., 307/8i0Ux City & Pacific......... 40 The Vallejo Route,........... 200] 16 Castellated Rocks..... 307 Boats CYUZ 00s sees eee e eee es 231 Calaveras Big Trees.......... 207] “* 17 Memories of Ft. Brid’r 307/592 Pablo & Tulare.......... 208 Petrified Forest..........02.+ 222] * 18 Hanging Rock, Utah. 308|S®2 Francisco & North Pacific 222 Yo- Semite Valley and Big ‘© 49 Steamboat Rock...... 308) Summit County........ theese 17 TOG ec caee 236] ‘* 20.Paddy Miles’ Ride... 308/S8ctamento Valley... - 208 New Paeraat Quick- Silver se OF Salt ake i oo 309 Southern Pacific ............. 227 MIMCB ooo selec oe ee 230) © 99 ee ae 309 Stockton & Visalia cso alate adel ous 207 California Windmills......... 205] “ a3 iiecareee of Galifor’a. 309/2teckton @ Copperpolis ase a Tule Lands... ............... 198] “* 23 Sierra Nevada Moun’s 310 Gnion Pacific. ....... sees Up the Sacramento.... ..... 197| “* 283 The Coast Range...... 310| Utah Central. ........--... ++. 122 Down the Sacramento....... 199] “* 23 The Rainy Season.... 310 [Utah Southern 220.020.2001 126 The Foot Hillg........4...... 205] * 23 Statistical Items...... 310} Utah Western......-......... 133 one Gold DESY seco ties ee - = Hee me in aiden. 310 Viste a ane a es ie USO TUNNEL]. cose kee soe | ** eoL Brigham Young 310| eet SY Pee se ° ones. au Snow Sheds.. ie 2 ierenn ADK gees 6 . 311 Wasatch & Jordan Valley.... 128 ydraulic Mining... ...o2s02 | f ” Ocean Steamships.... 312 Ten Miles of Track in One is : 28 Col. Jindaut's Survey. 312 SPRINGS, BY oe sicis am cic se tice Meat estern Stock Raising 313 Boise Country.........++0+-- 148| “* 30 The Great Cave...... © 314 Mot and Cold Pilot Peale se Locus aice 149] ‘* 30 A Little Bistory..... 3814 Pages..... pada pee ae 72, (82, 123 Humboldt Well..:.-...6.255. Moule’ RO Indian esend..., ...S14) ©... 4. eeew eee 134; 136, 161 The Palisades ...,.....206:. 155| ** 31 Nevada Falls......... SIG) 8) cee eee eco an 172, 164, 183 The Maiden’s Grave......... 159) ** 32 Pioneer Mail......... 315 OU Loe Obes senapy CLL, Reky eee Gravelly Ford...... eieles esse 159] ‘* 33 The Donnar Party..... SIBL o) oyewa ck Cares ++. 224, 210, 253 GHIN ERAT TIN DBisx—Conrinvep, | (IME TABLES. PAGE. PAGE. Paer. Pp een: OP oats oe e Bingham. ge 127 packs AGe. Me ecales 44 sts s HLOb Spring.......... itter Creek...,..... 1041Clarks, Nev...... .. 171 aie 2 igent oe Humpboldt. 2.0 ..2... 167| Bishops... .0..0.-2.... 152) Clear Creek... 197 Laramie “ ‘ 94|/Homey............... 181|Black Buttes......... 104|Clear Creek ......... 40 Western ce «& 40g|Mud........-....246. 165|Black Hawk ....... . 70/Clipper.Gap ........ 190 Salt Lake “ ©. P, 142 OWED Se. .c.ccee ses ee D88 Black Rock........ .. ABA Olifton.. Ge 138 Humboldt ‘ ae 151 Pyramid eeisices sie ee 165|Bloomfield........... 190 Cloverdale. baie ee + cine meee Truckee “ ‘ 465) Buby... .----.....-- , 150)/Blue Creek......... . 14giCoalville............. ny Sacramento “ « y7g|Salt Lake............ 309|Blue Canyon ........ ABU CULO. eee en 159 Western ce “ 92038 Tulare... st... ce <. - 38 Borst... oi. cies ck 81/Collingsville......... 199 Visalia “ uw ga4)/Tahoe .............+. 178|Bovine.....,.........--. 149|Coal Creek,......... 68 Tulare « gp, 994/Walker’s.. ......... 168/Box springs............ 157/C. H. Mills.......... 186 Los Angeles * «” 949| Winnemucca........ 165|Bolse..,..---..+-. +3 148/Colfax....... Se eceeeg AGT Yuma “ © 959] Washoe .........-.++ 172\Bonneville ......+... 143;Colorado Springs.... 81 UG cobs ere hee 182)Boca.....i23.5...... 1@7Colorado City ...... 82 RIVERS. ee i. tBoulder...c¢- 02.6... 66|Colorado Junction... 64 Black’s Fork........ 1190\Cities, Towns Vil-|Borden......:........ 286|Coin......:.....5 ... 164 Bear... jg8) ages amd Sta- (Bozeman... ........ 140| Coyotes. 3.1220... ., 448 Colorado :320...52.., 114 tions. Brady Island........ ‘48\Como:..2....42..... 98 Cache-a-la-Poudra... 65/Acampo............. 906) Brainard......./0...- 40|Colusa . ss. e.,.o. 198 Carson 25.00.0502. TGBIACTON.......00c.ce eee P42 | Bristol 6c seek ese 65/Columpus 2.202): . 43 Colorado os... .... OB5IAGAMB......cccccee ee 56 | BIONCO 20.0 bocca ce 177|\Colton, Neb..«........ 54 BIKDOM occ. cs... SO\AIDHB.... 2... os 157|Brigham.......... 187-143|Colton, Cal. ........ 252 Feather.............. 198] Alameda............. 211|Bridgeport .......... 202|Cooper Lake......... 97 Green ............--. 106) Alila........ 22 eee O88| Biggs... ess sees cece 196!Corinne,..... ccs ccc. 143 Humboldt........ 152-153/Alpine............... DAPI BIyOM 2... sists ea ee 109|Cottonwood....... 70-197 Ham's Fork......... 110/Agate.............00. 104) Bridger......5..-2¢5% 112/Council Bluffs....... 380 JOrdan,......2.....-- TOGA. ve voce. seen ese 46|Brighton...........+: MICowzaw. ..602.5. 65.5. 48 FANGS occ 25s. ccc oe 937|Alpine.........-.e1- 181|Browns...... ....-167-172|Creston........... 102-202 HRCI oes cis iiss ae s OBO|Alta... .. ...e sees 128-184|Brookvale ........... T3|Curtis...c.cs2- Pecan 200 Taramie..........ese OS AlKalt . cc... ca< see 62|Brounson..........2+ 5 Cuchara ..00.632..0¢ 85 DORAN coe. oete cae. s 139|/Altamont............ 200; Brule,......+.+ e400 52)Cucamonga.......... 252 IMIBTAC 2.2 ccae cee ccs MORAN. cece se 114|Buckeye........ yc. IOTDAVIBVING 2: ooo occ 200 Medicine Bow....... ORVANVEN ois ce. es 40|Bullion.... ....+..-: 156|David City........... 40 North Platte ...... 50-101/American Fork...... 180|/Burnw..... .--s- jos OC DAVIGBON.. 266.0... 68 IPTOVO. ceed coders: 199) Ames. ... ...-0..5., 48) Buford.to. 3.0.05 Soas MOND OME il cocks ocx cies Oe Guinne Sigieait goo ck IGSUAMGTeWSs. 226456... 5 244|/Bushnell ............ BE IDOCOLR. ce ccs seas 210 COBO Soy cee een « 162|/Andersons. ......... 197|Burlingame.......-.. QaR Decth! 1. Sel es 153 South Platte........... 54/Amdersons........... 171|/Buena Vista......... 188|Deer Lodge........ . 140 San Joaquin...... .. Antelope, Neb.,...... 56|Cabazon..2...522,. .. 253) Deer Creek.......... 132 The Platte)......... 41-54| Antelope, Cal.,...... 192/Carson....... ...... 174|Deep Wells......... 157 Truckee! 6600. 620 W7jAntioch.......-....5: 199|Calistopa.......... a. VQ Denver Bcc... %6 Wood... he eee 46|Aneta....... sb evieaes 197|Call’s Fork... ...... 187/Desert.. ........... . 169 Weber. :.c5 60.5 oe ti@Anaheim. ....s..e6. ss 948) Caliente........-. +265 240|Deweyville ..... ... 188 Walker:...¢.c05.00¢; TES AtKIing. 2... ..i... 6... 97 -eponae pee a perils cae Shee ee Pad “Apishapa............ 86;Canyon City. ... TAMONG ,.. 26002 aoc s U. S. FORTS AND) 4: i pplegate....... ... 190/Cannons............. QHZ DUERON.. 65s ool os eyes 202 CAMPS. Ascher, rye ene BRIOCACHS ee cose ce ees ShAl Dexter. i .. «escus, O8 Omaha Barracks.... 37|Arcade............... 192|Castle oo... . aa ee 206/Donahue............. 222 He. Kearny. ..,..5... 46|Argenta..... Sock taal TOU CABB. eens 89| Downeyville......... 190 Ft. McPherson...... 49 AYVadas: 20-40-22. 76|Cameron ...... .... Sentech lat. :.. 2.2... 184 Camp North Plaite.. 51j/Aspen.... ......-... 118|Cascade....,...... 183|Dos Palmas......... 253 Camp at Sidney..... 54 AU burn ... - ces cece 191)Castle Rock....... 80-216|Downey ............. 248 Camp Dougias....... TOG AMBtING 26.65. eet 162|/Castroville .......... S82 Douglass... ....5. se 80 Ft. Sedgwick........ 64 Baden. ........626 20 5 298)Carlin..:. ........... 1boporaper..... oe geese 129 Et. Morgan .2.-.2.45. HG Bantag:: o,f. co... se. SOS Carter. sos. classe _, 110/Duncans Mills....... 226 Ft. D. A. Russell.... 59)Bakersfield.......... 998/Carbon. .......... , 98/Duniham.:.-......-.+ 196 Ft. Laramie......... 59| Battle Mountain. .... 162}Carbondale....... ., Nb|Hdgerton: 2.) .... 81 Ft. Fetterman,...... 60)/Batavia... ...... .... 202|Carmadero.......... QB HCHO ee ee oe cele 117 Ft. Casper........... 60|Barton............... 53/Camptonville....... 100| Hebert... 300... es 57 Ft. Reno ........... 60) Baxter. .............- 105|Cedar......... .... 2.- +4. +6 221|Chimney Gulch...... 69|Essex............--- 177 Garson f22253/....,<. 168|Bige Spring ...:...... 52)Clarkston ......-...- 138|/Evanston..........-- 114 Donner. sc. 22-- 16! LSOBie Hi)... 6. fee. MOICISCO. 2.655. 2-s 25s es 184/Evans, Nev... ..... 156 4 GEN BRAT, TIN D Eidc—Conrinven. Page. Page. Paeu. Paar. Evans, Col.......... 89) Hollester............ 2381|/Lovelocks.... . ... 167/O’Fallons..... siecle ay WOUPCKA 5 .2....051s ts «) 1DO) MONEY VEE... 4.55. 13?) Loveland...2...0.5... 66/Oj : BWing. oe TOE MOORE ito. ss. NOT OCI oe. 149/Ogalalla Mainteld.. 2... 2.0802. 202}Hot Springs....... we, LOO| MAGIA | oS. 5s6 oe. os 236/0gd BHair-Oaks,.... 2.2.65, 29] HOWATGs6.5..06+-0..- Sc6|MAGrONC............. 230/Olema Farmington ........% 122) Howells 25.0. cs0eeee CS AINE N EGR 08 aon cer 139;Omaha WiMOrS oo... es - 102 Muffakers...........: 171)/Mammoth Tank..... 2O4s|Om Dey 2.62555 2225s 148 Flowing Wells......... . 254 Humboldt... ..s.es< 166|Manitou......... oe, SRIOSIMO 2.0606 bebe seces 154 AMOTIN' | ok ecoke sec 205) Huntsville......... . 80/Martinez....... .. 200/Orena ... 167 MVOVG IHG)... esos cs GR2UTON.. 6. ses oe wie Shes 237|Mariposa.. +» pod(OTOVILE.. ..5)..0. 665 194 Fink's Springs...... 25s HUPHes.......0.-.-.. 89/Marston .. + MLOIOEGO 6 2. bccss cs eee 89 MOIBOM vec c ences: 204/Husteds..... ....... 81|/Marysville... ». 194/Otego _ 150 mb. Colling,.. 25.64. 66) Hyde Park.......:.. 139) Mathie: oc. lee Id} Overton..... 2.5.5.0: 47 Ft. Fred Steele...... 100|)Hyrum....... sae eees 138)Mercede.....:....... SBvIOKLOLG. 6c seek 138 Ht. Sanders.......... 94/ITdaho, Col. ........ 72\|Medicine Bow.... 98) Palisade... 25... 00.5 156 MOWICT fos es ee 237\Idaho, Idaho........ 148|/Menlo Park...... +e S29 Paradige. .¥.3. 565.085 138 Forest City.......... 190|/Independence. . . 150/Mendon..... . 188)/Paris...... Desa aclaed 139 Fountain...... eee OOMMNGIOS oc bos 55 «+. 208|Melrose ............ QUO BAjaro. .. 60s cose ce 231 Branktown........... 172)Tron Point ee OSMAN DTA es cece e eases 228/Payson ..........2.05 1383 Branklin’ 2. koe. ss IS9 Tone. ...2-4.. 3 SOO WE Marg. oo... se oe: SUBIWM ....6.05- 006 bee 80 Fremont, Neb. -. 40)Ilinoisetown.. - 187|/McConnells.......... 205)Papillion .........6.. 38 .. 202)/Towa Hill... . 187)/McPherson... ...... 49) Petaluma,........... 222 -. 199|Jackson .. . 44|Mayfield............. 229|Petersburg.... se» 80 -. 287|Jossleyn J. 0 (ACIMAOWAY. ook Le. 209|/Petersons ....... ... 126 -. 222| Jordan ... .-. 127|Michigan Bar........ RODIRCtETB ooo... vesiees ss o 6 206 «- SUS VORNGON. 52 2c0e 055 SO MA Se ois cise ase cee 114) Percy. .:.0...5.. a 98 -. b50\Julesburg........-... Bal Miltone o.5...-565547 RGElIPequop:..6c...060.3. 150 88/Junction, Roseville.. 191]Miser....... Seow - OUI ORO ec ee sce S16. 6 158 . 158|Junction, Col...... W—72|Mississippi Bend... 199)Provo................ 182 74 Junction, Cal...... +. 225/Mill City, Col........ 74|Providence .......... 188 . 222/Junction, Utah...... 127\Mill City, Nev....... 166/Pasadena............ 249 80) Kaysville............ 122|Millstone ........... 184)Piedmont ....... ... 113 6 WRENROGN: 2 coche eee cscs 240/Mill Station...... oie bbe LOT CO geen cle iiaicieere c 89 46|Kearny Junction.... 46)/Mineral ............. 157/Pine Station......... 157 88) Ketchum.....5...... Mita ges eee. cs ccc 169/PINO 2... coolio see ss 191 POLIROMON: oie. k sss 148|Modesto............. 200 EADOM o 6s ol, 84 164/Kingsbury.............. 237|/Montello ... ........ 149|Pine Bluffs ..:..:.... 56 175|Knights Landing.... 198)Monterey....... .... Sez)Ruemte: 22.262, ...... 251 68]Korbels ............. 22| MOJAVE... 2... 0. . 058 SANBinte ole es eee 164 185/Kress Summit....... 188|Monument........... 81)Plainsburg .......... 285 | Gospel Swamp...... 249) Larkspur............ 80/Monument.......... 148)Placerviile........... 204 Goshen..s5.,.0...... POC UAKO Ly See o ea dees als 148|Montpelier.......... 139)Pleasanton .......... 209 Granite Pt.c.,....... 16(/Latham............. 104|Moore’s ............. 151|Pleasant Grove...... 182 Graneros............ 85)Laramie..... ....... Qb|IMOntCE c..2 6.0 che wees 251|Plum Creek ......... 48 Grangers............... 110]}La Veta...... ...... 86|Moleen........... .. 155/Pomona...... 565.2005 251 Greeley ss io. . 89/Lake View.......... 174|Morano.............. 235|Point Rocks......... 104 Greenland . oi.) . occa 81}Lawsons............. 74|Mokelumne ......... 206|Proctorg .¢40:-65.+5 © 1G Greenhorm..: 5.0... 6) 85) Lawrence............ 105|Mountain House.... 175)/Prosser Creek....... 177 Green River......... 106/Lake Point.......... . 134/Mountain View..... 229|PrairieDog....... .. 56 Grase: Valley. /..... USS) Wang i )......-.s.00 5, 243|Murphys ............ QOGVPOUER Fes oro sce 5 -. 55 Gridley ks see 196|Lathrop..... Ge ee ee 208/Mule Shoe.......... S8|EPUCbIO.:. 2.3.5.3 oc oe 84 Green: Valley... .... QUENT. 66s js. cs eee TBO Mysties:. 2 cccc.8e: 1¢7/|Promontory ......... 144 Greenville ..:.... 2... 101) Lewistown........... 139) Natividad ..:.......: P321QWaIry es. wees ays 148 ‘ Granite Canyon..... QUMGLOVS cae oe ce eed y v5 112)/Nevada, Cal.. ..... 190) Kalston ..... .....-. 68 Grand Island.... ... BANUOLKO. 2 Succ S ses 238)Nadeau ............ 241|Raspberry........... 166 Guy Gulch .:..:..... Go Eivermores::s.o.;... 200 Napa ... 2.552.005 220|Ravena | ......0...5 243 Gurneyville,......:5:. 222|Little York.......... 185| Napa Junction ...... 202)Rawling........... LOL UAT VANE... sees oes 104)Lincoln..... ene LOSIN.. BH. Mills... . 190) Reeds oo... S eacon 194 Half-way House..... 135) Little Buttes........ 83)Newton.... ....... 138!Red Buttes... ..... 93 Hallack ......... .. 153) Little Cottonwood.... 127/Newhall............. 243/Redwood City ....... 228 Hanging Rock....... MG ive Oakin. 2) .cco55 4. 196; Newport .....2.s.0c8 248)Redding... ......... 197 Hamptons.:. .. 2... L38pithleton:.. 65.805... 80) New Castle........... 191/Red Bluffs........... 197 (, Hamelton ....... ... 158) Lockwood........... 44\NelROn......22-+s2.05 LOG) Red Desert...) ....: 104 iy Bampton..c2.. 2... 110|Lodge Pole.......:... BYINICHOIS (22.42.5052 # OllRed Dog... ii. i.e 185 fy flamiet. 0.2.66. ae eH OMI ve cee QUINT Wob cc. .0 0. GbIREGO 0 66sise.3 6. 174 IMO ee 92|/Longmont. .:.......- GGINMeGS eres ee Q1O MRO Vista... ...5 3.55 199 Harrisville .......... 136|Longs Peak.......... 66|North Platte......., 50/Riverside............ 40 Hayward's...: .:...: 210i) Lone Tree,........5; 64 North Bends... .... 48Richmond......05.).2. 139 ay, Ranch. oc... . 3, TOGO PAN: Ss o858. 585 52 ABOEN Ordis oye scetase ce: 19G) Richland’... ..52..66. 43 Maward. 2703.02). 64—89/Lomo............ cs LOG Nonwalkes:c2.c.2565) 248)Richland, Cal....... 199 Healdsburg. ........ a2e| Lookout, Neb....... 97 Oakland; Mast ...0.. 211) Ripon .....60.)...... 235 Helena ese. 140|Lookout, Ney....... 174/Oakland, Wharf..... 213]Rose Creek.......... 166 Hermano wc. 2e.c53 2. Sb Moray 450.36... 1I60iOaklands .:s.262.3224 212|Rock Creek........ .. 97 Palisdale 2... . DWILOPENZO. So o526,. 2. coe 210)Oak Kmoll........... 221|Rock Springs... ... 105 Hilliard... 2... ges. L1dios Angeles....... - PAGORICVHM@s 222 5564 v8 221] Con’t on Page 322. Cash Capital mY ea? oe NATIONAL LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY of the U. S. of A. WASHINGTON, PD. C. CHARTERED BY CONGRESS. 1,000,000 a $4,023,362.94. etre ws) OOD CLE. 88. ASSETS JAN. 1,1878 ©. SURPLUS * & All this Surplus is a Security Addition 1 to the Reserve. Ratio of Assets to Liabilities 148 Per Cent. MMR LARGEST CAPITAL OF ANY JAEE INSURANCE COMPANY JN THE WORLD. The Capital Stock, $1,090,000, is FULL-parp, in Cash, and is held as additional security furnished by the Stockholders. PERFECT SECURITY; LOW RATES OF PREMIUM; DEFINITE CONTRAOTS. OFFICERS : EMERSON W. PHET President and Actuary. J. ALDER ELLIS, Vice-President. JOHN M. BUTLER, Secretary. SAM’L M. NICKERSON, Chairman, Finance & Executive Committec. DIRECTORS : Sam’L M. Nickerson, 1259. .|12:40 3:08 10:45 3.26 oo BOs eens aes weiss ce MODOTR: oi, 5 sco cies ni eos 1859. .|12:28 2315 11:25 3:45 on MO ee locice os Sac ee MB CHUVICT 1c... 5ssece loses 1835..)12:05 p mj 1:30 12:00 night) 4:05 oe OE eed coke Richland... ..3¢ iealeieieise's 1440. .)11345 12:5t 12:40) am) 4:25 ae OR eifice So ciae sae * @Colum? U6.....6.5 56. «-.- 1482.. 111 325 12:05 pm 1:20 4:45 we VOL ce] eee ea ceene ® JACKROD 25 scsi ceies'sceilee ss 1470. .)11:05 11:06 2:05 5:10 N00 go ..*Silver Creek........--|.... 1584../10:40 10:20 3:00 5:88 JRL) oa POlarioe. 2. ee ... 1610. .|10:10 9:27 4:00 6:05 ABR Ge 55. cmausiors *Lone Tree........:.-|[+.-. 1686...) 9:42 8:85 4350 6:30 a eee ee ae *OBApPMANS,........-2[--- 1760..} 9:15 7:45 5:15 6:45 dB dea. OCR WOOG acco ewictae es 1800..| 9:00 7:20 6:20 t 7:20 + DOE Ns aoe 88s *GRAND ISLAND.......1..., 1650..) 8:45 + 6:50 + 7:00 7:40 ee AOR CCH eeepc cea aus ANCA ob. cee 1907..| 8:07 5:45 7345 8:05 SO ces. wine a% ¥Wood River... s..)..-. 1904...) (345 5:05 8:20 8:25 SMB. oleae ces aku Shelton). 53. J.2..2. wee QULO. | F328 4:30 8:45 8:40 UAOBe elas Neoseek Globo Cor se 2046...) 7:08 4:05 9325 9:05 ee USLe ee eo * Kearny. csc. esc else - 2106..| 6248 8:25 9:45 9:15 poAOG sees ence *Kearny Juuction........}.... 2150...) 6:48 3:05 10:15 9 30 ee a ea ly sce e ces ees StEVeNsON .-......eseles- Q2170..| 6:20 2:35 11 20 9:58 eRe SOs bce eke? PHM iGreek... 2.5. doses 2241...) 5:55 1:45 12:05 =p m/10:23 eel eee hee oe lene nce ¥* Overton. ....... le eialiclels 2305..| 5:30 1:00 12:28 10:35 ROE LUIS wie wig eisiay ore sPOSEGLY Do. aioe oeey [ees 2330..| 6:17 12:35 am 1:00 + 10:50 SEBO e walle cacteca pine *Plum Creek... 0... 2.2/5. 2470..] 5:00 12:00 night 1:40 11:10 ROO cl ote b en site Oayoute.......0 sivisios waa 2440...) 4:40 11:10 2:10 11:28 eRe oa eee ek es COZIO ie. on neccce scales» L4IO00] 4124 10:40 2:35 11 :42 -.250,.2, |... .... *Willow Island.........|-.-.2511..) 4:10 10:z0 8525 12:10 | am) ..260 Sos. ee WAITED... -.s bees os 22. BOCO,,| Bi42 9:30 4:05 12382 (ROS eee lonewee ec. *Brady Island........./....2637..| 3:20 8:50 4:50 1:00 elOn sale aus ed *McPherson........---|+-++ 2695...) 2:55 8:05 = 30 1:20 wP8B ae |e oe Gannett...........- + s2U52...| 2388 7:20 6°30 +t 2:00 .291....|Ar....®¥NORTH PLATTR,...Lv.| ..2789..] 2:20 am] 7:00 pm +Meals. * Telegraph. The attention of passengers is directed to the elevation of each station. Transfer Groun ds.—These| Company have erected a large, fine build- grounds are about two miles west of Coun-|ing, whichtwhen finished will afford ample cil Bluffs, and about half a mile east of| accommodation for passengers, and for the the Missouri River bridge. Here, all pas-|transaction of all kinds of business con- sengers, baggage, express, and mails arriv-| nected with the Transfer Grounds. ing from the eastward, change to the cars| Passengers will here need to re-check of the Union a railroad. The Union! their baggage, and secure tickets in one of 34. the Panack SuEEPING Cars that accom- panies all through trains, and thereby in- sure an opportunity for a refreshing sleep, as well as a palace by night and day. This, however, costs an extra fee. The charges are, over the Union Pacific from Omaha, $8.00; from Ogden, over the aa Pacitic, to the Pacific Coast cities, 00. . But as all cannot afford to ride in palace cars, “do the next best thing,” and secure —pre-empt, if you please—the best seat you can, and prepare to be as happy as you know how. Sleeping car and stop-over privileges are not allowed on second and third-class tick- ets. Baggage can be checked only to the destination of second and third-class tick- ets—100 lbs. allowed free on each full, and 50 lbs. on each half-ticket of all classes. Extra baggage is $10 to $15 per 100 lbs, according to class. Passengers holding first-class tickets to San Francisco, with pre-paid orders for steamer passage to trans-Pacific ports, will be allowed 250 Ibs. baggage, free, on presentation of such orders to the baggage agent at Omaha; on second-class tickets, 150 lbs., free. Orders for steamship passage can be purchased at the Omaha depot ticket office. O For Rates of Fare, see ANNEX No. 4. oO There is no longer any necessity of pur- chasing a lunch basket of provisions to take along, as the eating-houses are nu- merous—charges, $1.00 a meal—and the accommodations at all the principal sta- tions for all those who wish to ‘‘stop over” a day or two, are ample, charges, from $3.00 to $4.00 per day. : For «a Brier SketcH or OurR WESTERN Country — THE Far West — Con- DENSED History — ORGANIZATION OF THE Pactric RarwRoapD—LAND GRANT —Cost of ConsTRucTION—MATERIAL Usmp— IMPORTANCE OF THE Roap— Facts In BRIEF—GRUMBLERS—See ANn- nex No. 5. OnE Worp MormE— 2 ie ° 4 Q O cr ° td > o o (‘ZI “ON xouuy 9ag) i Aa Ravine Hy aN iN \ Sm SSS Fee Fie Bg See Se = 3S : $ S =~ WS ehh ese RNS AND PACIFIC It is claimed this route is 33 miles shorter to Chicago than via Omaha, but we do not know of any through travel ever going by this line, and judge the local travel to be its sole support. The Fremont & Elkhorn Valley rail- road to the northward is completed to Wisner, about 50 miles, and trains are run- ning regularly. This road runs through a very rich and well cultivated country, where wheat yields as high as 30 bushels to the acre, Fremont is connected with the south side of the Platte by a wagon bridge that cost over $50,000. Tur Puarte RrveEr—We arenow going up the Platte, and for many miles we shall pass closely along the north bank; at other times, the course of the river can only be traced by the timber growing on its banks. Broad plains are the principal features, skirted in places with low abrupt hills, which here, in this level country, rise to the dignity of “bluffs.” It would never do to omit a description of this famous stream, up the banks of which so many emigrants toiled in the COAST GUIDE. Al time and skill to decipher the old and time-stained hieroglyphics with which it is decorated, will learn that it marks the last resting-place of some emigrant or freighter, who, overcome by sickness, laid down here and gave up the fainting spirit to the care of Him who gave it; or, per- chance, will learn that the tenant of this rentless house fell while defending his wife and children from the savage Indians, who attacked the train in the gray dawn or darker night. There is a sad, brief his- tory connected with each told to the passer- by, mayhap in rude lines, possibly by the broken arrow or bow, rudely drawn on the mouldering head-board. However rude or rough the early emigrants may have been, it can never be charged to them that they ever neglected a comrade. The sick were tenderly nursed, the dead decently buried, and their graves marked by men who had shared with them the perils of the trip. Those were days, and these plains the place that tried men’s mettle; and here the Western frontiersman shone superior to all “Whoa, haw” times, from 1850 to the time when the railroad superseded the “prai- rie schooner.” How many blows from the ox-whip have - fallen on the sides of the pa- tient oxen as they toiled along, hauling the ponderous wag- ons of the freighters, or the | lighter vehicles of the emi- grant! How often the sharp ring of the “ popper” aroused the timid hare or graceful antelope, and frightened them away from their meal of waving grass! How many tremendous, jaw - breaking oaths fell from the lips of the “bull-whackers” during that period, we will not even guess at; but pious divines tell us that there is a Statisti- cian who has kept a record of all such expletives; to that authority we refer our readers who are fond of fig- ures. Once ina while, too, the traveler will catch a glimpse of a lone grave, marked by a rude head-board, on these plains; and with the HIGH SCHOOL, OMAHA, 42 others who ventured to cross the ‘“‘vast desert,’? which stretched its unknown breadth between him and the land of his desires. Brave, cool and wary as the sav- age, with his unerring rifle on his arm, he was more than a match for any red devil he might encounter. Patient under adversity, fertile in resources, he was an tnvaluable aid at all times; a true friend, and bitter foe. This type of people is fast passing away. The change wrought within the last few years has robbed the plains of its most at.ractive feature, to those who are far away from the scene—the emigrant train. Once, the south bank of the Platte was one broad thoroughfare, whereon the long trains of the emigrants, with their white-covered wagons, could be seen stretching away for many miles in an almost unbroken chain. Now, on the north side of the same river, in almost full view of the “old emigrant 10ad,” the cars are bearing the freight and passengers rapidly west- ward, while the oxen that used to toil so wearily along this route, have been trans- formed into “western veal’? to tickle the palates of those passengers, or else, like Tiny Tim, they have been compelled to “move on” to some new fields of labor. To give some idea of the great amount of freighting done on these plains we pre- sent a few figures, which were taken from the books of freighting firms in Atchison, Kansas. In 1865, this place was the prin- cipal point on the Missouri River, from which freight was forwarded to the Great West, including Colorado, Utah, Montana, &c. There were loaded at this place, 4,480 wagons, drawn by 7,310 mules, and 29,720 oxen. To control and drive these trains, an army of 5,610 men was em- ployed. The freight taken by these trains amounted to 27,000 tons. Add to these authenticated accounts, the estimated busi- ness of the other shipping points, and the amount is somewhat astounding. Compe- tent authority estimated the amount of freights shipped during that season from Kansas City, Leavenworth, St. Joe, Omaha and Plattsmouth, as being fully equal, if not more than was shipped from Atchison, with a corresponding number of men, wagons, mules and oxen. Assuming these estimates to be correct, we have this result: During 1865, there were employed in this business, 8,960 wagons, 14,620 mules, 59,- 440 cattle, and 11,220 men, who moved to its destination, 54,000 tons of freight. To a nee ee ceaaanaaeaac aaa: CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST accomplish this, the enormous sum of $7,- 289,300 was invested in teams and wagons, alone. But to return to the river, and leave facts and figures for something more interesting. “But,” says the reader, “Ain’t the Platte River a fact?’ Not much, for at times, after you pass above Julesburg, there is more fancy than fact in the streams. In 1863, teamsters were obliged to excavate pits in the sand of the river-bed before they could find water enough to water their stock. Again, although the main stream looks like a mighty river, broad and ma- jestic, it is as deceiving as the “make up” of a fashionable woman of to-day. Many places it looks broad and deep; try it, and you will find that your feet touch the treacherous sand ere your instep is under water; another place, the water appears to be rippling along over a smooth bottom, close to the surface; try that, and in you go, over your head in water, thick with yellowish sand. You don’t like the Platte when you examine it in this manner. The channel is continually shifting, caused by the vast quantities of sand which are con- tinually floating downits muddy tide. The sand is very treacherous, too, and woe to the unlucky wight who attempts to cross this stream before he has become acquaint- ed with the fords. Indeed, he ought to be introduced tothe river and all its branches before he undertakes the perilous task. In crossing the river in early times, should the wagons come to a stop, down they sank in the yielding quicksand, until they were so firmly imbedded that it required more than double the original force to pull them out; and often they must be unloaded, to prevent the united teams from pulling them to pieces, while trying to lift the load and wagon from the sandy bed. The stream is generally very shallow during the fall and winter; in many places no more than six or eight inches in depth, over the whole width of the stream. Nu- merous small islands, and some quite large, are seen while passing along, which will be noticed in their proper place. The Platte River has not done much for navigation, neither will it, yet it drains the waters of a vast scope of country, thereby rendering the immense valleys fertile; many thousand acres of which, during the past few years, have been taken up and successfully cultivated. The average width of the river, from where it empties into the Missouri to the junction of the North and South Forks, is not far from three-fourths of a mile; its average depth is séx inches. In the months of September and October the river is at its lowest stage. The lands lying along this river are a portion of the land granted to the Union Pacific railroad, and the company are offering liberal terms and great inducements to settlers. Much of the land is as fine agricultural and grazing land as can be found in any section of the Northwest. Should it be deemed necessary to irrigate these plains, as some are inclined to think is the case, there is plenty of fall in either fork, or in the main river, for the purpose, and during the months when irrigation is required, there is plenty of water for that purpose, coming from the melting snow on the mountains. Ditches could be led from either stream and over the plains at little expense. Many, however, claim that in ordinary seasons, irrigation is unnecessary. From Omaha to the Platte River, the course of the road is southerly, until it nears the river, when it turns to the west, forming, as it were, an immense elbow. Thence along the valley, following the river, it runs to Kearny, with a slight southerly depression of its westerly course; _ but from thence to the North Platte it re- covers the lost ground, and at this point is nearly due west from Fremont, the first point where the road reaches the river. That is as far as we will trace the course of the road at present. The first view of the Platte Valley is im- pressive, and should the traveler chance to behold it for the first time in the spring or early summer, it is then very beautiful; should he behold it for the first time, when the heat of the summer’s sun has parched the plains, it may not seem inviting; its beauty may be gone, but its majestic grand- eur still remains. The eye almost tires in searching for the boundary of this vast ex- panse, and longs to behold some rude moun- tain peak in the distance, as proof that the horizon is not the girdle that en- circles this valley. When one gazes on mountain peaks and dismal gorges, on foaming cataracts and mountain torrents, the mind is filled with awe and wonder, perhaps fear of Him who hath created these grand and sublime won- ders. On the other hand, these lovely plains and smiling vallevs—clothed in verdure and decked with flowers—fill the mind with love and veneration for their AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 43 Creator, leaving on the heart the impres- sion of ajoy and beauty which shall last forever. Returning to Fremont—and the railroad —we proceed seven miles to Ames—formerly called Ketchum— only a side track. Near this station, and at other places along the road, the traveler will notice fields fenced with cottonwood hedge, which appears to thrive wonderful- ly. Eight miles further we reach North Bend—which is situated near the river bank, and surrounded by a fine agricultural country, where luxuriant crops of corn a evidence of the fertility of the soil. The place has materially im- I proved within the last few years and now has some fine stores, two hotels, a grain elevator, and about 75 dwellings and places of business, and a population of about 350. Young cottonwood groves have been set out in many places—good fences built, and altogether the town has a pro- gressive appearance. Leaving the station, for a few miles the railroad track is laid nearer the river’s bank than at any point between Fremont and North Platte. we arrive at Rogers—a new station, and appar- ently one of promise—7 4-10 miles further is Schuyler—the county seat of Colfax county, containing about 800 inhabitants, and rapidly improving. It has five churches, two very good hotels, with court- house, jail, school-houses, many stores, a rain elevator, and several small manu- factories. The bridge over the Platte River, two miles south, centres at this town a large amount of business from the south side of the river. From Schuyler it is 7 8-10 miles to Richland—formerly called Cooper— a small side-track station, from which it is eight miles to Columbus—the county seat of Platte county—eight miles west of Richland. It contains about 2,000 inhabitants, has two banks, six churches, several schools, good hotels, and two weekly newspapers,—the Platte Journal and the Hra. The Ham- mond is the principal hotel. Columbus—from its location in the midst of the finest agricultural lands in the Platte Valley, with the rich valley of the Loup on the north—has advantages that will, at no distant day, make it a city of many thousand inhabitants. Seven miles from here 44 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST George Francis Train called Columbus the geographical center of the United States, and advocated the removal of the National Capitol to this place. We have very little doubt, should George ever be elected President, he will carry out the idea, when we shall behold the Capital of the Union located on these broad plains—-but we shall not buy corner lois on the strength of the removal. In July and August, 1867, Columbus was a busy place, and the end of the track. Over 10,000,000 Ibs. of Government corn and other freight was re-shipped from here to Fort Laramie, and the military camps in the Powder River country. This was the first shipment of freight over the Union Pacific railroad. Numerous railroads to the north and south are projected from Columbus, and its future prospects are bright. Soon after leaving Columbus we cross Loup Fork on a fine bridge, constructed in the most substantial manner. This stream rises 75 miles northeast of North Platte City, and runs through a fine farming country until it unites with the Platte. Plenty of fish of various kinds are found in the stream, and its almost innumerable tributaries. These little streams water a section of country unsurpassed in fertility and agricultural resources. Game in abundance is found in the valley of the Loupe, consisting of deer, antelope, turkeys and prairie chickens, while the streams abound in ducks and geese. From Columbus it is 7 6-10 miles to Jacksom—surrounded by well-culti- vated fields. Passing along, and just before reaching the next station, we cross a small stream called Silver Creek. From Jackson it is 10 1-10 miles to the next station— Silver Creek—This section of coun- try has improved very rapidly during the last few years, and we notice many sub- stantial evidences of thrift in every direc- tion—many new buildings. To the northeast of this station is situ- ated the Pawnee Indian Reservation, but not visible from the cars. It covers a tract of country 15x80 miles in area, most of which is the best of land. About 2,000 acres are under cultivation. The tribe number about 2,000, are provided with an “Agen- ea and all the usual accompanying “civ- ilization !’? Again we speed westward, 7 3-10 miles to Clark’s—a small station named in honor of the General Superintendent of the road. The surrounding country is remarkably rich in the chief wealth of a nation—agri- culture—and has made rapid progress, Of late years, several new stores, a church, school-house, and many dwellings have been added, indicating permanent pros- perity. From Clark’s it is 11 2-10 miles to Lone Tree—the county seat of Mer- rick county. It contains a population of about 600, and is surrounded by thrifty farmers. The “old emigrant road” from Omaha to Colorado crosses the river op- posite this point, atthe old “Shinn’s Ferry.” A bridge is now contemplated, and will be found of great commercial advantage to the town. . \ The more recent settlers of Lone Tree, call the place “Central City,” in anticipa- tion of the early completion of the Ne- braska Central railroad to this place. Cottonwood trees have been planted by many of the settlers about their homes, which present a cheerful and homelike ap- pearance. Passengers should notice the railroad track—for 40 miles it is constructed as straight as tt ts possible to build a road. When the sun is low in the horizon, at certain seasons of the year, the view is very fine. Rolling along 10 4-10 miles, and we ar- rive at Chapman’s—asmall place, compris- ing a few buildings, near the station, but the country around about is a broad prai- rie, and nearly all improved and settled by thrifty farmers. From Chapman, we continue west 5 5-10 miles to Lock wood—asmall side-track station. Six miles further and we are at our supper station, Grand Islamd—the county seat of Hall county, which contains a population of about 1,500. lt is provided with the usual county buildings, several banks, churches of various denominations, good schools, several hotels, many stores, some very pretty private residences, and two weekly newspapers, the Independent and the Times; also one of the largest steam flouring mills in the State. Grand Island is a regular eating station, where trains going west stop 30 minutes for supper, and those for the Hast have the AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 45 DEVIL’s SLIDE, WEBER CANYON, UTAH. same length of time for breakfast. The eating-house is on the right or north side of the track, in a large, new building, and the meals served are very good. It is claimed that this town will become a great railroad center—it may; when it does we shall be pleased to record the fact. One thing is certain, the bridge over the Platte River to the south, and the one over Loupe Fork to the northward, has had a tendency to center a large amount of trade at this point. The Union Pacific Railroad Company have located here machine and repair shops, round-house, etc., being the end of the first power division west of Omaha. This station was named after Grand Is- land in the Platte River, two miles distant, one of the largest in the river, being about Chinese Cheap Labor—‘‘ Work for nothing and board yourself’—from the inhabitants of your neighbor's hen-roost. 80 miles in length by four in width. The Island is well wooded—cottonwood princi- pally. Itis a reservation held bythe Gov- ernment, and is guarded by soldiers. When the rosd was first built to Grand Island, buffalo were quite numerous, their range extending over 200 miles to the westward. In the spring, these animals were wont to cross the Platte, from the Ar- kansas and Republican valleys, where they had wintered, to the northern country, re- turning again, sleek and fat, late in the fall; but since the country has become sett'ed, few, if any, have been seen. In 1860, immense numbers were on_ these plains on the south side of the Platte, near Fort Kearny, the herds being so large that often emigrant teams had to stop while they were crossing the road. At It is said that in San Francisco the people can drink, and carry more without staggering, than in any city of the world. 46 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Fort Kearny, in 1859 and 1860, an order | place, with a population of about 100. was issued forbidding the soldiers to shoot the buffalo on the parade ground. Proceeding westward 7 7-10 miles, we reach Alda—a small station just east of Wood River. After crossing the river, the road follows along near the west bank for many miles, through a thickly settled country, the farms in summer being covered with lux- uriant crops of wheat, oats and corn. Wood River rises in the bluffs, and runs south- east until its waters unite with those of the Platte. Along the whole length of the stream and its many tributaries, the land for agricultural purposes is surpassed by none in the Northwest, and we might say in the world. The banks of the river and tributaries are well wooded, the streams abound in fish and wild-fowl, and the country adjacent is well supplied with game, deer, antelope, turkeys, chickens, rabbits, etc., forming a fine field for the sportsman. ‘This valley was one of the earliest settled in Central Nebraska, the hardy pioneers tak- ing up their lands when thesavage Indians held possession of this, their favorite hunt- ing-ground. Many times the settlers were driven from their homes by the In- dians, suffering fearfully in loss of life and property, but as often returned again, and again, until they succeeded in secur- ing afirm foothold. To-day the evidences of the struggle can be seen in the low, strong cabins, covered on top with turf, and the walls loop-holed, and enclosed with the same material, which guards the roofs from the fire-brands, bullets and ar- rows of the warriors. : From Alda, it is 8 1-10 miles to Wood River—asmall station. Here can be seen one of the old-fashioned speci- mens of plains station-men,in the person of Charley Davis. He keeps an eating- house and saloon, where freight and emi- grant trains often stop for meals. Char- ley’s specialty is the “Jerusalem Pickle.” A good “square meal” is served for 50 cents, Passing on 7 5-10 miles, we reach sheltom—a side-track, where a flour- ing mill, store, and a few dwelling houses constitute the place. To the westward 5 8-10 miles, is Gibbon—It is situated in the midst of a fine farming country, was once the coun- ty seat of Buffalo county, and is a thriving Proceeding, it is 8 4-10 miles to Shelby—(formerly Kearny)—a small station of little account. Westward again 4 miles, and we reach a place of some importance, Kearny Junction—named for the old fort of that name on the south side of the river, nearly opposite—the county seat of Buffalo county. Here the Burlington & Missouri River railroad, and the Den- ver & St. Joseph railroad, form a junction with the Union Pacific coming in from the south, on the same track, which crosses a bridge over the Platte River, two miles distant. In 1878, the first few buildings were erected here, since which time the place has improved wonderfully. It now con- tains apopulation of over 1,200, with two weekly newspapers, the Z%mes and the Press, and one daily; think of that, O ye Pilgrims! for a place only five years old— the Daily Press would be a credit to any city of twenty times the population of this! The local business coming in on the B. & M. and the St. Joseph roads, makes this place one of unusual activity and business promise. The town contains the usual county buildings, which are built of brick, has two banks, six fine churches, two schools, many stores of all kinds, several hotels—the Atkins and the Grand Central are the principal—and some fine private residences. The country around the town is not as good agricultural land as we have seen further to the eastward, yet some good crops of grain are raised, and large quanti- ties are hauled here, to be shipped to the East, West and South. From this point west, the country is oc- cupied principally by the stock men. Stages leave here daily, except Sunday, for the Republican Valley, and all interme- diate points, carrying the U. 8. mail to Franklin, Bloomington, Republican City, Orleans and Melrose, where connections are made with stages for every town in the Upper Republican Valley and Northern Kansas. Let us take a look at the grounds on which stood old ‘ Forr Kerarny—This post was_ first established at Fort Childs, Indian Terri- tory, in 1848, by volunteers of the Mexican war—changed to Fort Kearny in March, 1849. In 1858 the post was re-built by the late Brevet-Colonel Charles May, 3d Dra- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE, goons. It is situated five miles south of Kearny station, and ‘nine miles via Bur- lington & Missouri railroad from Kearny junction, on the south bank of the Platte, which is at this point three miles wide, and filled with small isl- ands. The fort is in latitude 40 deg. 33 min., longitude 99 deg. 6 min. In the fall of 1872, all the Government . buildings, worth mov- ing, were removed to North Platte and Sid- ney, on the Union Pa- cific railroad, 291 and 412 miles, respective- ly, west from Omaha, and the post abandon- ed. The remains of the dead. bodies of soldiers, buried at Kearny, were taken up and re-inter- ed in the National Cemetery, at Fort Mc- Pherson. Two miles above the fort, on the south bank, is Kearny City, in the early days more com- ' monly called “ Dobey Town.” This was once - a great point with the old Overland Stage Company, and at that time contained about 500 inhabitants, the greater portion of | | which left upon the = abandonment of the CROSSING THE SANGRE DE-CHRISTO MOUNTAINS line and the south-side : nase Altitude, 9, bet. i : ; 4 a O Z Q O eS O a > g o NL xouuy 22g) AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. : BY the westward, for 5 6- 10 miles to Tracy —a small side-track, where pas- senger trains seldom stop. It is 5 6-10 miles further to Keg ber t— anoth- er unimportant side- track. Near this point we leave Lodge Pole Creek. From this point to the source of the stream in the Black Hills, about 40 miles away, the valley pre- sents the same general appearance until it reaches the base of the mountains. Bears, deer and wolves abound in the country around the source of the stream, and herds of antelope are scatter ed over the valley. At one time beavers were plenty in the creek, and afew of these interest ing animals are still to be found in the lower waters of the stream, near to its junction with the Platte. This valley was once a favorite hunting-ground of the Sioux and Cheyennes, who long re- sisted the attempts to remove them to the reservation to the northward. Passing on up a dry ravine 6 3-10 miles, we come to Burns—another small side-track—and nothing else—which is 5 7-10 miles from Hillsdale—When the road was being constructed from this place to Cheyenne, a large amount of freight was re-shipped from here on wagons. Then, it was a busy place, now, only a water-tank and side- track. The station was named after a Mr. Hill, one of the engineering party who was killed near this place by the Indians while he was engaged in locating the present site of the road. About 50 miles to the south is “Fre- mont’s Orchard,’ on the South Platte River, about 60 miles below Denver City, Colorado, and in that State. It was named after Col. Kremont, who discovered thepoint in his exploring expedition. It consists of a large grove of cottonwood trees, mostly on the south side of the river. MONUMENT ROCK, BLACK HILLS, U.P.R.R. The river here makes an abrupt bend to the north, then another to the south, cut- ting its way through a high range of sand- hills—the third range from the Missouri River. Where the river forces its way through the bluffs, they are very high and abrupt on the south side. The two bends leave a long promontory of sand hills, the end of which is washed by the waters. At a distance, this grove of cottonwoods on the bottom land reminds one of an old orchard, such as is often seen in the East- ern States. Near Fremont’s Orchard is located the Green Colony, at Green City, which num- bers about 200. _ Passing on from Hillsdale up a ravine, which gradually becomes narrower as we ascend, with bluffs on either hand, 6 2-10 miles, we come to Atkimns—a side-track. Passing on, our train gradually rises on to the table-land, and then, if the day be a fair one, the tray- eler can catch the first glimpse of the Rocky Mountains, directly ahead. On the right he can catch glimpses of the Black Hills of Wyoming, stretching their cold, dark ruggedness far away to the right, as far as 08 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST the eye can see; but the bold, black line— the dark shadow on the horizon, which will soon take tangible shape and reality, but which now seems to bar our way as with a gloomy impenetrable barrier, is the “Great Rocky Mountain Chain,” the back-bone of the American continent, though bearing different names in the Southern hemi- sphere. The highest peak which can be seen rising far above that dark line, its white sides gleaming above the general darkness, is Long’s Peak, one of the highest peaks of the continent. Away to the left rises Pike’s Peak, its towering crest robed in snow. It is one of those mountains which rank among the loftiest. It is one of Col- orado’s noted mountains, and on a fair day is plainly visible from this point, 175 miles distant. From Atkins it is 5 4-10 miles to Archer—situated on the high table- land, where the cars seldom stop—is eleven miles from Hillsdale; and a little farther on, the cars pass through the first snow- shed on the Union Pacific road, emerging with Crow Creek Valley on the left. After passing through a series of cuts and fills, the track of the Denver Pacific rail- road can be seen on the left side, where it passes over the bluffs: to the southeast. Directly ahead can be seen, for several miles, the far-famed “Magic City of the Plains,” 8 4-10 miles from the last sta- tlon— Cheyenme—which is the capital of Wyoming, the largest town between Omaha and Ogden. Passenger trains from the East and West stop here 80 min- utes, for dinner—and no better meals can be had on the road than at the Railroad House. Distance from Omaha, 516 miles; from Ogden 516 miles—just ha/f the length of the Union Pacific road; distance to Denver, Colorado, 106 miles. Cheyenne is the county seat of Laramie county. Population about 6,000. Eleva- tion 6,041 feet. It is situated on a broad plain, with Crow Creek, a small stream, winding around two sides of the town. The land rises slightly to the westward. To the east it is apparently level, though our table of elevations shows to the contrary. The soil is composed of a gravelly forma- tion, with an average loam deposit. The sub-soil shows volcanic matter, mixed with marine fossils in large quantities. The streets of the town are broad and laid out at right angles with the railroad. Schools and churches are as numerous as required, and society is more orderly and well regulated than in many western places of even older establishment. The church edifices are the Presbyterian, Con- gregational, Episcopal, Methodist, Catho- lic, and several of other denominations. The city boasts of a $40,000 court-house, a $70,000 hotel—the Inter-Ocean—many new blocks of buildings, among which are, an opera house, banks, and stores of all kinds, besides many fine private res- idences, also a grand lake or reservoir for supplying the city with pure water, con- ducted by canal from Crow Creek, from whence smaller branches run along the sidewalks for the irrigation of gardens, trees and shrubbery, which will soon make the city a place of surpassing beauty. It also boasts of a race-course and some good “steppers.” It has three daily newspapers, the Leader, the Gazette and the Sun, all of which issue weeklies. Cheyenne has the usual small manufac- tories, among which the item of saddles is an important one, as the saddle of the plains and most Spanish countries, is a different article altogether from the Eastern “hogskin.” When seated in his saddle, the rider fears neither fatigue nor injury to his animal. They are made for use—to save the animal’s strength, as well as to give ease and security of seat to the rider. The best now in use is made with what is known as the “California tree.” The old firm of E. L. Gallatin & Co., make thesesaddles a specialty, and fill orders from all over the western portion of the United States, Mexico and South America. The railroad company’s buildings are of stone, brought from Granite Canyon, 19 miles west. They consist of a round-house of 20 stalls, and machine and repair shop, in which are employed 50 men. The freight office and depot buildings are of wood. The freight office was opened for business during the first part of November, 1867, at which time the road was completed to this station. No land is cultivated around Cheyenne, except a few small gardens around Crow Creek. The soil is good, and the hardiest kinds of vegetables and grains could be raised successfully with irrigation. Graz- ing is the main feature of the country. he Railroad House, before which all’ passenger trains stop, is one of the finest on the road, and has ample accommodations for 60 guests. The dining-room, which AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 59 | - everybody patronizes, as it is celebrated for its good fare, is tastefully ornamented with the heads and horns of the buffalo, deer, elk, antelope, mountain sheep, and other game, all preserved and looking as natural as life; here, too, is a great variety of other interesting specimens. The other hotels are the Inter-Ocean, Deimonico, on the European plan, Dyer’s, Simmon’s, and Metropolitan. Earuty Times—On the fourth day of July, 1867, there was one house in Cheyenne —no more. The first Mayor of Cheyenne was H. M. Hook, an old pioneer, elected August 10, 1867, who was afterwards drowned in Green River, while prospecting for new silver mines. In the spring of 1869, there were 6,000 inhabitants in the place and about the vi- cinity; but as the road extended westward, the floating, tide-serving portion followed the road, leaving the more permanent set- tlers, who have put up substantial build- ings of brick and stone, which mark a thriving and steadily growing city. Cheyenne, at one time, had her share of the “roughs” and gambling hells, dance- houses, and wild orgies; murders by night and day were rather the rule instead of the exception. This lasted until the business men and quiet citizens, tired of such doings, and involving a loss of halfa-million dollars. The inhabitants, with commendable zeal, rebuilt, in many instances, with more durabie material than before. GOVERNMENT FORTS AND CAMPS. Fort D. A. RusseLu—This post was es- tablished July 81, 1857, by General Auger, and intended to accommodate sixteen com- panies. It is three miles from Cheyenne, on Crow Creek, which washes two sides of the enclosure. Latitude 41 deg. 08 min.; longitude10- deg 45 min. Itisconnected by side-track with the Union Pacific railroad at Cheyenne. The quarter-master’s depart- ment—12 store-houses—is located between the fort and the town, at “Camp Carling.” Several million pounds of Government stores are gathered here, from which the forts to the northwest draw their supplies. The reservation on which the fort is situ- ated was declared by the President, June 28th, 1869, and contains 4,512 acres. Fort Laramre—This fort was estab- lished August 12th, 1869, by Major W. F. Sanderson, Mounted Rifles. The place, once a trading post of the Northwestern Fur Company, was purchased by the Goy- ernment, through Brice Husband, the com- suddenly an impromp- tu vigilance commit- tee appeared on the scene, and several of the most desperate characters were found swinging from the end of a rope, from some convenient eleva- tion. Others, taking the hint, which in- dicated they would take a rope unless they mended their ways, quietly left the city. At present Cheyenne is orderly and well- governed. In the fall of 1869, Cheyenne suffered se- verely by a large con- flagration, which de- stroyed a considerable portion. of the busi- ness part of the town, ae DOWN THE WEBER RIVER, NEAR MORGAN CITY 60 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST pany’s agent, for the site of a military post. It was at one time the winter quarters of many trappers and hunters. It is also noted as being the place where several treaties have been made between the sava- ges and whites—many of the former living around the fort, fed by Government, and stealing its stock in return. The res- ervation, declared by the President on the 28th of June, 1869, consists of 54 square miles. It is situated 89 miles from Chey- enne—the nearest railroad station—on the left bank of the Laramie, about two miles from its junction with the North Platte, and on the Overland road to Oregon and California. Latitude 42 deg. 12 min. 38 sec.; longitude 104 deg. 31 min. 26 sec. FortFETreERMAN—This post was named in honor of Brevet Lieutenant. Col. Wm. J Fetterman, Captain 18th Infantry, killed at the Fort Phil. Kearny massacre, Decem ber 21st, 1866; established July 19th, 1864, by four companies of the Fourth Infantry, under command of Brevet Colonel William McE. Dey, Major Fourth Infantry. It is situated at the mouth of La Poele Creek, on the south side of the North Platte River, 135 miles from Cheyenne, 90 miles south of Fort Reno, and 70 miles northwesterly from Fort Laramie; latitude 42 deg. 49 min. 08 sec., longitude 105 deg. 27 min. 03 sec. ‘The reservation of sixty square miles was declared June 28th, 1869. Cheyenne is the nearest railroad station. The regu- lar conveyance from Cheyenne to the Fort is by Government mail ambulance and Black Hills stages. Forr CaspeR—was situated on the North Platte River, at what was known as “ Old Platte Bridge,” onthe Overland road to California and Oregon, 55 miles north of Fort Fetterman; was built during the late war; re-built by the 18th Infantry in 1866, and abandoned in 1867. Its garrison, mu- nitions of war, etc., were transferred to Fort Fetterman. The bridge across the Platte at this place cost $65,000—a wooden structure, which was destroyed by the In- dians shortly after the abandonment of the post. Forr Rrno—was established during the war by General E. P. Connor, for the pro- tection of the Powder River country It was situated on the Powder River, 225 miles from Cheyenne, 90 miles from Fort Fetterman, and 65 miles from Fort Phil. Kearny. It was re-built in 1866 by the ~~ Infantry, and abandoned in July, Fort Pum. KEarny—was established July, 1866, by four companies of the 18th Infantry, under command of Colonel H. B. Carrington, 18th Infantry. This post was situated 290 miles north of Chey- enne, in the very heart of the hunt- ing grounds of the northern Indians, and hence the trouble the troops had with the Indians in establishing it. Near this post is where the great massacre took nee in 1866. It was abandoned in July, 1868. Fort C. F Smrra—was established in 1866, by Brevet Lieutenani-Colonel N. C Kinney, Captain 18th Infantry, and two companies of that regiment. It was at the foot of the Big Horn Mountain, on the Big Horn River, 90 miles from Fort Phil. Kearny, and 380 from Cheyenne. It was abandoned in July, 1868. Here the thoughtful wil! note, that the Government established four forts in this northern Powder River country, for the protection of the white man as against the Indian. To the occupancy of the country the Indians protested, and the Government acceeded, and made a treaty, yielding up possession of the whole country north of the North Platte River—the Black Hulls included—and abandoned the posts and the country to the Indians. When gold was discovered in this—acknowledged—Indian country, and the white man commenced to invade it—in search of gold—the Govern. ment attempted to prevent their trespassing, and to keep faith with the Indians anc Gen. Sheridan issued his orders against this invasion; and sent soldiers to arrest all parties in the “ Hills,” and prevent others from going to them. Finally, the | Governinent “winked” at emigration which it could not, or would not prevent. What see we now? The white man has taken the Indian’s country, that our Gov- ernment has acknowledged belonged to the latter, has drzven the Indians out, beggars as they are, with only the bread that the Government chooses to toss tothem. We are no “ Indian lover,” but, if the Govern- ment had a right to build these posts, they should never have abandoned them; having abandoned them, and treated with the Indian, as an equal, where is our boasted “civilization,” when, though the lands do contain gold, we take them without a “thank you,” as the elephant would crush atoad, Does mzght make right ? Buack Hinits Gotp Mrnes—For many years vague reports have been in circula- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. tion — see our Guide for 1869—of rich gold deposits in the Black Hills and Big Horn country, but, until Gen. Custer, with a military expedition, pene- trated to, and explored the region about Harney’s Peak in 1874, and reported gold abundant, the soil rich, the country well timbered, and most desirable, nothing definite was known. In 1875 the gold-seekers began their travels to the “ Hills,” in 1876 the numbers were greatly increased, but in 1877 the great rush was at its height. These peo- ple have laid out cities, towns, and villages; en- aged in mining, merchan- ising, farming, and other occupations. The principal wealth of the region is in the quartz rock, which re- = quires capital to work to = advantage. Some of these quartz mines are AUTHORI- TATIVELY reported to be ex- ceedingly rich, and at the time we write—March 6, 1878—there are 742 stamps thundering away, night and day reducing the ores,which are making rich returns, which we have the best authority for stating, amounted to over $3,000,000 for 1877. The principal city in the “Hills,” is called Deadwood, for which place stages leave Cheyenne daily. For route and fare, see ANNEX No. 50. These Hills lie between Z py fpr . yy, WASH-A-KIE —PEACE CHIEF OF THE SHOSHONE INDIANS. the 43rd and 45th degrees of latitude, and the 103d and. 105th parallels of longitude; are about 100 miles long and 60 miles wide. We are pleased to refer our readers in search of further and full information on the Black Hills, Powder River and Big Horn country, to ANNEX No. 9. Cheyenne up to this time has been the principal outfitting point for parties des- tined for the Black Hills. The amount of freight shipped from here since the emi- gration commenced, has been enormous. The road being a good one, with good stations, water, grass, etc., along the whole route, it has become the principal one traveled, particularly by small or private parties. The distance is 266 miles. As for railroads, Cheyenne has great ex- pectations. She already has two roads to Colorado, and now is agitating a line to the Black Hills, the Iron Mountain, and to Montana. But as these roads are not yet so that we can ride on them we will pat_ 62 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ronize the Southern route and take a run into the State of Colorado, the youngest, the fairest, and the “Cen- tennial State” of the United States; ad- mitted to the Union, July Ist, 1876. The State has an area of 86,029 square miles, and a population of 150,000. It is not our purpose to enter into a very minute description of this remarkable country. Volumes would not suffice to do justice to her vast resources; her mines of gold, silver, iron, coal, and copper; her rich and fertile valleys; her broad plains, on which roam thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses; her vast agricultural resources ; her dense forests and lofty mountains; her genial climate and whole-souled people, cannot be described in one small volume with any degree of accuracy or justice; in fact, they cannot be described at all, they must be seen to be appreciated, and the reader of any work treating on Colorado must live among her hardy, hospitable people before a correct understanding of _ their real character can be obtained. The climate is dry and very healthy, the Territory being unsurpassed in this respect. Diseases common to the older States are unknown here. Pulmonary complaints are either eradicated from the system of invalid who resorts to this country, or the disease becomes so modified that the suf- ferer enjoys a marked improvement in his condition. Within the past few years Col- orado has become noted as @ resort for in- valids; and we hear of some remarkable cures, resulting wholly from a change of climate. The report of the Agricultural Society of Colorado shows that stock-raising is carried on to a very great extent, and with very flattering results. Oats, barley and corn give handsome returns. Wheat is said to yield from 40 to 50 bushels to the acre. No State in the Union, California ex- cepted, can excel Colorado in the produc- tion of vegetables. In some portions of the Territory; owing to the dryness of the black loam, irrigation is necessary to secure good crops, for which purpose canals and ditches have been dug from the neighboring streams, which afford all the water required, and also ample water. power for mills of various kinds. Colorado is rich in the precious metals, gold and silver being found in different parts of the Territory. ‘‘ Pike’s Peak” be- came famous in 1858-9, though it is said that, gold was discovered in the Territory in 1849. The placer mines were never very extensive, at least those which have been discovered were not lasting ones. It ap- pears that the chief wealth of the mines lies in the gold and silver-bearing quartz lodes. In many of the mines, the ore is very refractory, and large fortunes have been expended to find some way to work the ores in such a manner as will secure a profit. Many plans of de-sulphurizing have been tried without any marked success. About the only works that have proved a success are those of Professor Hills, at Black Hawk; these works are the largest and most successful in America. Along the base of the mountains, for many miles north and south of Denver, ex- tensive coal mines have been discovered at various points. Good authorities estimate the extent of the coal fields at 5,000 square miles. To the north of the city several companies have opened mines, which are yielding—besides enough to supply home consumption and the various railroad com- panies—immense quantities for shipment to the North, East and South. This coal is bituminous, and is harder, brighter, less dirty and odorous, burns with a purer flame, and leaves less residue than the coal from Tlinois. Large quantities of iron ore, of good quality, are found in connection with the coal deposits, and will eventually consti- tute a great source of wealth to the coun- try. Manufacturers of machinery and all kinds of iron implements would find in Colorado an almost unlimited market, and would be able, while under selling Eastern dealers, to reap a rich reward for their outlay. The following are among the minerals and precious stones found in Colorado: Moss agates, chiefly in Middle Park; am- ethyst, at. Nevada, Mill City, and on Soda Creek; chalcedony, in South Park; feld- spar, near Idaho and on Elk Creek; gar- net, in South Park and about Brecken- ridge; jasper, in South and Middle Parks; mica, near Georgetown and Genesee Ranche; opal, near Idaho and in South Park; onyx, near Willow Creek, in Mid- dle Park; quartz crystals, at many points; satin spar, near Mount Vernon; silicified wood, in Middle and South Parks, on Cherry Creek, the Platte, and Kiowa. Many of the grandest mountains are | AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 63 found in Colorado. They raise their snow- élad peaks far above their compeers, ris- ing proudly and defiantly into the clear blue sky; their gray sides and white crests being visible through this clear atmosphere for many, many miles, In the pure air of this country, objects like these are visible fora great distance, so great indeed, that were it named, those who have never been in these regions, we fear, would doubt the statement. The altitude of the principal mountains, according to Prof. Whitney, are: Mt. Lin- coln, 16,190 feet; Pike’s Peak, 14,336; Gray’s Peak, 14,251; Sopri’s Peak, 14,200; Mt. Cameron, 14,000; Mt. Guizot, 18,228 feet; Vealie’s Peak, 13,456 feet; Parry’s Peak, 18,214 feet; Argentine Pass, 13,000 feet; Laguna Alta, 12,000 feet; Mt. Flora, 12,878 feet; Snowy Range, 11,700 feet; Boulder Pass, 11,700 feet; Georgia Pass, 11,487 feet; Berthoud’s Pass, 11,371 feet; Note Pass, 11,200 feet; Long’s Peak, 14,271 feet. There are other peaks, less high, but none the less grand and majestic. The Alps—storied monu- ments of poetical, legendary fame—cannot compare with these mountains in scenes of sublime beauty and awful grandeur. Here, all of the vast scene is before you, the pure air bringing the distant moun- tains within your vision, as though anxious that the whole grand beauty of the scene should be visible at one and the same time. The mind drinks in the inspiration of the glorious vision at one draught, and filled with awe, wonder and admiration, the bounding heart almost stands still, while the eager eyes gaze on the grandest panorama in nature. From the top of Grey’s Peaks, either of them, a morning scene of glorious beauty is unfolded to the visitor, such as one rarely sees in any clime; for nature, in her wildest moods, has never excelled her handiwork in the panoramic view spread out in every di- rection. European travelers tell us that nowhere within the range of European travel can such scenes be found—scenes so full of beauty, sublimity and inspira- tion. Nowhere on the old continent do we as- cend so high; from no pointis the view so wide and comprehensive. From Alpine summits, the tourist’s gaze extends over one petty province to rest upon another. Here, the eye fails to reach the extent of even one portion of our country, and the far distant horizon closes in the scene by dropping an airy curtain, whose fleecy fringes rest on mountain peaks and vast plains in far distant portions of the same fair land. Tax SuMMIT oF THE Rooky Mountarns —from one side cf which the waters of numerous little springs ripple softly away, as though afraid te venture on the vast distance which lies between them and the waters of the Atlantic Ocean, their final des- tination—rears far heavenward its serried peaks. On the other side of the crest the scene is repeated, with this difference, that the waters stealing away through beds of tiny, delicately tinted mountain flowers, are destined to reach the Pacific Ocean, on the other side of the continent—so close together in their infancy, so far apart in their prime, or at their final grave—the ocean. This point is the apex, the centre of the North American Continent, the crowning peak ot that great backbone, whose iron ribs are represented by the many spurs that branch away in earnest support of the whole grand system. From this point, range on range, gorge after gorge, can be seen, interspersed with rugged peaks, which lend a peculiar wild- ness to the scene. Away to the east, lies the ‘vast, grayish expanse of the plains, looking like some great ocean, its breast unstirred by the passing breeze, or rippled by a single prow. Nearer, still, among the bordering mountains nestling in the hollows and between the brown heights, lie miniature prairies, patches of green, on which the rays of the morning sun fall in folds of yellow light, enveloping them in a flood of golden beauty. Small and insignificant as they appear when com- pared with the vast sea of plains beyond, they are really large valleys, in which are found the farming lands of Colorado. These little valleys, as seen from the mountain tops, prove, on entering them, to be both wide and long. They consist of the Norrs, Mrppun, Sourm and San Luis Parks, which lie along, on either sideof the line of Central Colorado. Each is a great central park or valley in itself, shut out from its neighbors by dividing ranges of rugged hills, the only entrances being along the numerous water courses, which have their origin in the valleys, and cut their way through the surrounding moun- tains in their passage tothe sea. The extent of these parks varies, the largest be- ing about 80 miles long, with an average width of 40 miles. The smallest of the 664 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST number will not exceed 40 miles in length, with a width of about 15 miles. Some of these lie on the Atlantic side of the “ back- bone,” while others rest on the Pacific side, their altitude being from 17,000 to 10,000 feet. They are, in fact, great up- land basins, the reservoirs of the debris which for centuries has washed down the mountain sides. Their soil is fertile, yielding wild grasses in abundance, fur- nishing food for vast herds of sheep and cattle. In Europe or New England, were such plains found at such an altitude and in similar latitude, they would be worthless, barren wastes—probable regions of per- petual ice and snow; but here, grains and vegetables are successfully cultivated, and cattle graze the year round at the height of 7,000 feet, while those valleys which lie between this altitude and that of the high- est—10,000 feet—and including those, also afford excellent summer pasturage and great crops of natural grass, which is cured for hay and exported. These great fertile areas constitute one of the great resources of Colorado—an un- bounded field of wealth which requires no expensive machinery to develop. When these plains shall have been stocked and settled, when the golden grain shall wave in the morning breeze around the home of the pioneer, when these lands shall have been divided up and peopled, a new era of wealth and prosperity will dawn on Colorado—an era of steadily increasing and permanent progress, such as mines can never give. But we must away—“All aboard for Col- orado!”—While at dinner at the Railroad House in Cheyenne, the “ Denver through sleeping car’? is dropped from the Union Pacific train, and taken up by the through train. on the Colorado Central Railroad. Chief office at Golden, Colorado. W.A.#H. Lovnuanp,...Pres. and Gen. Manager. E. L. BERTHOUD,........ Sec. and Chief Engineer. Oy He PERN RY oie ec gi ein 00 Superintendent. This was the first railroad corporation in Colorado, having been organized in 1865. Ground was first broken at Golden, New Years day, 1868, and during the year 10 miles of track graded. In September, 1870, the broad gauge portion, between Golden and Denver, was completed. In April of the same year, work was com- menced on the division extending north to Longmont, and west to the mining cities of Central, Black Hawk, and Georgetown. The mountain portion of the “Central” is a three-foot narrow , gauge, commenced about the same time as the Longmont di- vision, and completed Sept. ist, 1871, to the junction of North and South Clear Creeks, 18 miles from Golden, and in December following, to Black Hawk 86 miles from Golden. In March, 1878, the South Clear Creek line was completed to Floyd Hill, 34g miles above the forks, and to Georgetown in the fall of 1876. In the July of 1877, work was commenced on the extention from Longmont, and completed to Cheyenne in October of the same year, making the whole mileage of the “Central,” 184 miles, 180 being of the broad, and 54 narrow gauge. Leaving Cheyenne, our course is west- ward over the track of the “Union Pacific,” six miles to CotorRADO JuNcTION—At Hazard, be- fore reaching the station building, our track branches off to the left, leaving the Union track on the north side of the plat- form, while ours is on the south side. At Hazard we meet the Overland train from the West, and hear the cry of “Change cars for all points in Colorado and New Mexico,” and having received on board such passengers as are going our way, change our course to the southward and pass over aroiling prairie for a few miles, and then through deep, sandy cuts up a heavy grade, cross the line into Colorado, and descend by a great Horse-shoe curve into the valley of Lone Tree Creek, and after a distance of 9 5-10 miles, reach the station of Lone TrREE—a side-track and water- tank, opposite the old stage station—the herds of cattle and sheep being the only objects of interest observable. : Proceeding on down the valley, which in places is a half-mile in width, cross- ing and re-crossing Lone Tree Creek, we pass through several cuts of hard lime rock. In one place, where the rock has been hauled away from the cut, it has been dumped, on the right of the track, a load in a place, close together, covering a con- siderable ground, and the action of the atmosphere has caused these hard rocks to slacken and fall down to a white powder. Scientists are requested to explain “why this is thus?” Hight miles further is TayLors—a side-track. Here you get a AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. sp ood: view of the ocky Mountains, with Long’s Peak tow- ering up the highest, on the right of the train. After passing Tay- lors, “Round Butte,” a sharp, high peak rising up out of the plain on the left, ap- pears to view. This country is wholly giv- en over to stock-rais- ing, sheep being the principal kind, large flocks of which will be seen for the next twenty miles. To the eastward, on Lone Tree Creek, is a collection of tower- ing rocks—resembling, from some directions, an old castle—that are called “ Natural Fort,” but they cannot be seen from the cars. Nine miles more, and we pass BURNING Bristo. —on Box Elder Creek, another side-track. A few miles after passing Bristol, by looking away to the right, northwest, can be seen the Black Hills range, south of Sherman, and away up on the comb of the ridge, but 500 feet higher, rises on the view the “Steamboat Rock,” so-called, but from our cars it resembles more closely a huge fortress, round and tur- reted, as seen from different directions. The hills are nearly bare of timber, and in places are very red, similar to those at Red Buttes, on the Union Pacific road, in- dicating the presence of iron. Soon our train reaches the high prairie, and then, if the day be a clear one, the passenger will have, on the right, one of the grandest mountain views that can be found on this continent, or the world, the great Rocky Mountain range, extending from north to south as far as the eye can reach. Immediately opposite is Long’s Peak, 14,271 feet in height, the base of which’seems almost at our feet, yet it is 50 miles away. Beyond can be seen a few peaks of the “ Snowy Range,” covered at all times with a mantle of snow; these are full ray miles distant. To the south, ROCK CUT, NEAR GREEN RIVER. that towering old mountain peak—the great land-mark for the “ Pilgrims” of 1858-9—Pikes Peak looms up 156 miles away. Continuing along on this high table-land, we pass several small lakelets on our right, and then comes in view the valley of the Cache-a-la Poudre River, a tributary of the South Platte River, which has its source in the mountain springs around the base of Long’s Peak. This river, which we will cross at the next station, is about 50 miles in length, running through one of the loveliest valleys in the State. It is thickly settled and the settlers raise abundant crops. To our right, away up the valley, em- bowered in shade trees and orchards, is the old city of La Porte, a few buildings of which can be seen through the thick foliage. It was once an important point on the old overland stage road, which runs from Denver slong the base of the mountains to this place, and.continues on through Virginia Dale Canyon to Laramie Plains. La Porte is asmall place of per- haps 100 inhabitants, a good hotel, several stores and some fine residences. It is rine ana 66 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST noted as being one of the best places in the State for game, a place where deer, elk, mountain sheep, bear, and moun- tain lions can be found, as well as the finest trout fishing in the whole mountain range. Descending into the valley we cross numerousirrigating ditches, and then a long bridge over the Cache-a-la Poudre River to the south bank, and stop at Fort Conirns—the first place of much importance since leaving Cheyenne, 48 miles distant, and 80 miles from Denver. Fort Collins is the county seat of Lara- mie county, inthe midst of as fine agricul- tural section as there is in the State. It has several churches and schools, one flouring mill, a dozen or more stores, two good hotels—the Collins and the Blake— several small manufactories, and is popu- lated by an enterprising and thrifty people, numbering about 500. The town is a short distance to the left, east of the station. Passing on to the southward, we cross several large irrigating canals—one be- longing to the “@reeley Colony,” of which we shall speak hereafter—and up over a rolling prairie 13 6-10 miles to LovELAND-—righily named. This place was cognomed after the president of the road, than whom a more enterprising, ener- etic, and persevering man never set foot in olorado, and the people at Loveland Sta- tion have become, to a great extent, in- spired with the same spirit of progress that animated him, as ismanifest in the improve- ments surrounding this station, where, in June last, 1877, there were but very few buildings to be seen. Now, there are sev- eral stores, a good station building, some fine private residences, and an air of thrift pervades the scene onevery hand. Wheat, oats, barley and corn are the principal pro- ductions—of the first two named the crops are. very abundant. Proceeding on, we soon come down into the valley of Big Thompson Creek, upon which are some fine farms, especially on the upper portion near the mountains. Crossing the creek, and up over another stretch of high rolling prairie, we descend to another small valley, through which runs Little Thompson, which we cross and stop at BrerrHoup—a small side-track station, 9 4-10 milesfrom Loveland. Continuing our journey, we again pass over a high rolling prairie, used mostly for grazing, 4 3-10 miles to Lone’s Prax—or “Highland,” as it is sometimes called—but really we could not see anything to call, unless it were the sheep, and they were numerous; also, fur- ther on, some farmers were engaged in “tickling the soil,’’ which, when irrigated, produces abundant crops. Five miles further, and we are at Lonemont—This is one of the most im- portant towns on the road. It is situated on the high prairie sloping to the south- ward, about half-a-mile north of St. Vrain River, the waters of which are taken out about seven miles west of the town and conducted in ditches over the highlands on each side of the river, which produces large crops of wheat, barley, oats, corn and other crops annually. During the last. year, over 300 car loads of wheat were shipped from Longmont, besides what was ground in three mills located near the town. Wheat often yields 30 bushels to the acre; oats 50. Longmont has three church edifices, two schools, two hotels—the St. Vrain and the City—ten stores, and a great many kinds of shops and small establishments. The Longmont Post is a live weekly, published here. Its population is about 800, and rapidly increasing. The streets are laid out at right angles, and are ornamented with shade trees of various kinds, as are many of the private residences. In the summer, a stage leaves here for Estrs ParK—80 miles distant, to the westward. This is a beautiful little valley, about six miles long by 44g wide, sur- rounded by mountain peaks, chief of which is Long’s, about 10 miles to the northward. Spruce and pine trees abound in the park, sufficiently near each other to afford a beautiful and cooling shade in the hottest days in summer, Crossing St. Vrain River, which, a few miles above, forks, the southern branch of which is called Left Hand, we again as- cend the rolling prairie, and six miles from Longmont reach Nr Wot—a station named for a mine and mill on the side of the mountain in plain view. The country here is nearly all under cultivation, that portion between the road and the mountains being very pro- ductive. Eight miles further on we arrive at BouLDER—This city is about one mile to the westward, at the base of the mountain, and mouth of Boulder Canyon. Itis the 67 AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. oe a tye a SS ae Se SG Oy 0 CAG Ty ata ah AVA vot De ope aye, Mule Team, in 1869, loaded with Boilers and Machinery, weighing 54,000 pounds, en route from Elko to White Pine 68 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST county seat of Boulder county, one of the richest in the State. ' The chief business in which the citizens are engaged, is mining and agriculture —gold, coal and iron being the principal minerals. There are three ore sampling works, one smelting furnace, one iron fur- nace, two flouring mills—the latter turning out 850 sacks of flour daily—one large foundry and machine shop, and numerous small manufactories. There are many good business blocks, four church edifices, and several good schools, besides the State University, which is located here. Of newspapers there are two, both weekly, the Vews and the Ban- ner. The American is the principal hotel. Population, about 2,000. Boulder Canyon, at the mouth of which the city is located, contains some magnifi- cent scenery,—see illustration and ANNEX No. 11,—and is the outlet to the valley for some of the richest mines in the State. In the western or mountainous portion of the county are located the Gold Hill, Sugar Loaf, Caribou, Pennsylvania, Snowy Range, Gold Lake, Ward, Jamestown and other rich mining districts, containing numerous stamp mills and _ reduction works, which yield a wealth of the precious metals daily. Near the station we cross the track of the Boulder Valley railroad, of which Boulder is the western terminus. This road connects with the Denver Pacific at Hughes’ station, 17 miles north of Denver. It is operated by the Kansas Pacific Rail- road Co. Itwas projected in the first place for a coal road, but-afterwards improved, and is now in good condition and doing a good passenger and freight business Looking down the valley, as we leave the station, two high peaks, or buttes, can be seen, rising some hundreds of feet above the plains, which are near the site of the town of Valmont, started in 1868 to rival Boulder, but did not succeed. Crossing Boulder Creek to the south side we soon pass Pettis Lake, noted for its numerous sunfish; and 5 5-10 miles ‘more brings us to Davipson—on South Boulder—a small side-track. Two miles further and we reach Coan CRrREEK—on the stream of that name—after crossing which we commence a heavy up grade, through deep cuts, and on for ten miles to CHurcHES—This is a small side-track, named for a butcher and cattle dealer who lived near by, in 1862-8. Itis in a region where irrigation was first resorted to in Colorado, ditches for which purpose take the water from Ralston and Clear Creeks. From Churches we proceed over another dividing ridge of prairie-land seven miles to Ratston—Situated on the creek of that name, which comes down through a deep cut in the “ Hog-back” Ridge, two miles to the west. From Ralston, our course is to the south- west, up a heavy grade, two miles to the summit, where we run between the Table Mountain on the east, and the “ Rockies,” on the west; then, as we descend, on the west, can be seen the old Golden Gate wagon road into the mountains, over which—until the building of the “Central,” through Clear Creek Canyon—passed up and over the “Guy Hill,” all the travel for the mining regions of Gilpin and Clear Creek counties. One mile further, down grade, making three from Ralston, and we stop at GoLtpEN—This city is often called the “Lowell” of Colorado, on account of the number of manufactories located in and near the city. Golden was first settled in 1859, then, it was a lively place, owing to the gulch mining on Clear Creek, both above and below the town, but these “placers” having been worked out, the place declined. In 1863 it took a step forward in the estab- lishment of a pottery and paper mill, the first within 800 miles; but since the com- pletion of the Central, rapid progress has been made. The town now contains about 4,500 inhabitants, and besides the manufactories above named, has three flouring mills, a manufactory for making fire brick, the Golden Smelting Works, which turn out about $300,000 worth of bullion and lead annually, and the Golden Smelting and Dressing Works, another very extensive establishment. Besides these, there are several saw mills and manufac- tories of small wares. The School of Mines for the State is located here. Golden is the county seat of Jefferson county, is due west of Denver 14 miles by wagon, and 16 miles by railroad, situated on Clear Creek, or Vasquez Fork, just be- low where it debouches from the moun- tains, and close above the Table Moun- tains, which rise 1,000 feet above the town, in what must have been at onetime a great a Se ha ee eer mrp in rie pe eens ban ose aatnna ee eg Se basin or lake, before the waters of the | | i ee AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 69 creek cut their way through to the plain below. These mountains are nearly round, flat on the top and covered with grass, from the summit of which, a magnificent view can be had of the towns of Golden, Den- ver, Boulder, and down the Platte River to the northeast, up to the Arkansas Divide, to the southeast, and out on to the broad plains to the east, as far as the eye can reach. The court house at Golden, is of a fine quality of brick, with cut stone facings, standing on an eminence overlooking the city. There are six church edifices, one large public school, capable of accommo- dating 300 pupils, several hotels, among which are the Bacon, Overland, Golden, Johnson, and Astor. Golden has two weekly papers, the Colorado Transcript, published by Geo. West, a Revolutionary soldier of 1812, or rather a pioneer of 1859, and the Colorado Globe, by Donaldson & Moore. There are several quartz Mines near the town, and the whole section is underlaid with coal mines of good quality, which are successfully worked. Clear Creek rises about 60 miles from the city, emptying its waters into the Platte four miles below Denver. The stream affords great natural advantages for manufacturies, the water-power being un- limited, and mill sites numerous. The business of the town is principal] with the mining region to the westward, and while we are here we will take arun up and see what can be seen. “Change cars,’—this time, for the narrow gauge, and away we go to the west, up, up, through a narrow canyon, with the creek on our left, and the towering mountains rising above our heads, on either hand, 1,000 feet or more. We follow the creek in its tortuous course, in places 100 feet above, and then along on a level with its banks 3 2-10 miles to CHIMNEY GuLcH—a station only in name. In 1863,a wagon road was built up this canyon to Guy GuLcH, three miles further, which it followed up about three miles to where it intersected the old Golden Gate road, at the foot of Guy Hill. Near the junction of this wagon road, which comes in on the right, with Clear Creek, are many evidences of placer mining; but little has been done since 1859 and 60, when this was a_ busy camp. From Guy Gulch our course is more to the left, crossing the creek to the south, between high towering cliffs, for 1 6-10 | miles to Braver BRooK — the first stopping place so far on the route. Beaver Brook —a small stream TEMPLE, SALT LAKE CITY. comes in on the left, down a narrow -canyon, up which six miles distant is located a sawmill, in the midst of a_ perfect forest of timber. Opposite the station building, away up on a projecting point of the mountain, 200 feet above the road, and almost over- hanging it, is located a pavilion, with a stairway leading to it from near the platform below. © In the summer this place is a great resort for pic-nic parties from the valley 70 below, and the mountains town above; also for school children, the railroad company running extra trains for their accommodation. The scenery at this point is grand; the mountains are full 1,000 feet above the road, on either hand, and covered in places with a dense growth of young pine and spruce trees, presenting as wild, pictur- esque and romantic appearance as one could wish. Leaving the station, our road makes a 80 degree curve to the right, up a grade of 272 feet to the mile, wnder a projecting spur of the mountain, which rises 1,500 feet above our train (see ANNEX No. 12), with the creek close on our right. Soon we cross the creek, and, one mile ftom Beaver Brook, pass EK COrEEK—a_ side-track—and con- tinue our climbing between towering mountains on each side, 3 410 miles further to Bia Hrriz—Here the old Mt. Vernon wagon road comes down the mountain from the left, the grade of which, in places, is 34 feet to the 100. This road leaves the valley about two miles south of Golden, and after climbing the mountains via Mt. Vernon Canyon, to an altitude of 8,000 feet, descends this “hill”? and runs up the north branch of Clear Creek to Black Hawk. Many of the mills and the ma- chinery used in these mountains, in early days, before the railroad, were hauled over this road; and where the grades were the steepest, the wagons were eased down by ropes secured by a turn or two around huge pine trees beside the road, and at this time, the marks of the ropes are to be seen where they have peeled the bark, so taut were the lines. We know—of our own personal knowledge—where it took ten men, besides their teams, néne days to lower down this “hill” one boiler, the weight of which was alittle over seven tons. Those who grumble at railroad charges, please take notice; the wagon road is still there—try zt. But we must ar 1 1-10 miles further and we are at © Junction—of North and South Clear Creek. Here the route for Georgetown turns to the left, across the bridge, while that for Black Hawk and Central keeps to the right. As we have always had a desire to do right, we will keep to the right awhile longer, and note the result. rom this point to Black Hawk, seven CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST miles—and we might include that portion from Floyd Hill to Georgetown, on the south fork—nearly every foot of the creek bed has been dug over, time and again, by miners, in search of the yellow metal—gold. Dams, in many places, have turned the waters of the creek, through flumes, first on one side of the creek bed, then on the other, and the greater portion of the earth, from surface to bed-rock, and one side the gulch to the other, have been dug and washed over by white men, and when given up by them, have been “jumped” by the Chinese, many of whom can be seen daily, washing and working these old “placer diggings” over again. Leaving the junction—the road is on the east side of the creek—we proceed 2 1-10 miles to Corronwoop—a milk ranche, aside-track, 27-10 miles from Smita Hrri—where the old wagon road, built by Mr. E. B. Smith, of Golden, in 1862, comes down from a narrow ravine on the east. The mountains on each side are steep and high, moreso than for the last two miles below the station. Nearly opposite this station, comes down Russell Gulch, up which. are located the old placer mines, so noted in 1859. Proceeding upward and onward, about one mile above the station, we pass, on the left, the old Excelsior and the Whipple Mills, now abandoned, except as a shelter for a few Chinese miners, who work along the creek or’ “washee, washee’”’ for a living. By looking away up the mountains on the left, westward, can be seen the railroad grade, where it runs along first to the south then back to the north, gaining al- titude at each turn, which will, when com- pieces enable our train to run into Cen- tral. Rolling along, we pass several quartz mills; across the creek to the west bank, and along the road on the right, are located the Reduction Works, conducted by Prof. Hill. These works are said to be the largestin America, and the most successful. The weekly average value of gold, silver, copper and lead, amounts to $200,000; most of the ores treated are purchased from parties working mines in the vicinjty, or on South Clear Creek. From Smith Hill, it is 2 3-10 miles to Buack Hawk—a city of about 3,000 in- habitants, all of whom are engaged in mining, directly or indirectly. The build- Te AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. DONNER LAKE BOATING ings are sandwiched in between the guiches, ravines, mines, rocks, and pro- jecting mountain crags in the most irregu- lar manner. Gold, in paying qnautities was first dis- covered in this section of country, at this place, by John H. Gregory, May 6th, 1859. During the summer, the great rush of gold- seekers commenced in earnest, and the mountains were overrun with prospectors, every day bringing reports of rich placer diggings or quartz discoveries. Close upon the discovery of gold, came the newspaper. The Rocky Mountain Gold Reporter and Mountain City Herald were established Aug. 6th, 1859, by Mr. Thos. Gibson, at this time, one of Omaha’s most esteemed citizens. The Post, a weekly, is the only paper published here now. Quartz mills are numerous in and around Black Hawk; the rattling of their descending stamps, night and day, speaks in thunder tones of the great wealth of this ls as PARTY. mountain country, one of the great treas- ure-chambers of the American Continent. The railroad, when completed, will keep up Clear Creek, to the east of Black Hawk, where it will make a curve to the west bank and follow it down through the more elevated part of the city, and run up the mountain side—as previously described —gaining sufficient altitude to reach Spring Gulch, close to Central, to the old Mon- tana mill where the depot will be located. But, until this road is completed, passen- gers will take the “bus” at the depot just below Black Hawk, and ride up through the city—through Gregory Gulch, the old town of Mountain City, and along a street, built up, most of the way—passing several quartz mills, for a distance of about two miles, when we are at CENTRAL Orry—county seat of Gilpin county; altitude 8,240 feet, being about 800 feet higher than Black Hawk. The city has a permanent population of about 4,000, and, like the people of Black Hawk, 72 are all connected with the mining industry, more orless The Regester, a daily and weekly paper, enlightens the citizens on the news ot the day, while the Teller and the Granite hotels, provide good accommo- dations for the traveling public. Central is the center of an extensive mining section, composed of small vil- lages, camps, or ‘‘diggings,” some of which number 500 and 600 inhabitants, who purchase the greater portion of their goods at the county seat. The mountains surrounding Central and Black Hawk—when gold was first dis- covered jn them—were covered with a dense growth of pine and spruce trees, but they are about all cut off now, and the whole mountain top and sides, with the stumps and prospect holes, present a face, — pock-marked,” we should say, were it a child, beyond the recognition of its own mother. Gilpin county contains 19 quartz mills, with 595 stamps, which crush 450 tons of ore per day. We will now return to the JUNCTION—cross the bridge and start up South Clear Creek towards Georgetown. Soon after leaving the station our train arrives at a narrow gorge anda sharp curve | in the road, where a huge spur of the mountains projects out, within 200 feet of its tall brother on the opposite side of the creek; and as the train passes wnder this over-hanging cliff, we enter one of the grand- est natural anyphitheaters tn the world. The mountain rises over 2,000 feet above the stream which is here compressed to a rapid torrent, thundering at its very base. The scenery for the next two miles is unusu- ally impressive. In places small pine and cedar trees can be sen in the gorges and crevices, which add an additional beauty to the scene. In places the space between the moun- tain cliffs is just sufficient for the creek and road; ia others, the road-bed has had to be blasted out from the mountain side. : About three miles above the Junction the road curves to the right, opposite the base of Floyd Hill, down which comes the old wagon road, from Bergins township to the south, and follows up the west bank and crosses the creek at Froyp Hinn Station—s 7-10 miles from the Junction. From this point up to Georgetown, 21 miles, the creek shows many evidences of “placer mining,” and is one of the sections alluded to on a preceeding page. CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Passing up, the creek bottom widens, and the mountains are not as high.. Several old deserted mills are to be seen, and some work in the placer diggings along the creek. Five miles brings us to Ipano Sprines—situated in Clear Creek county, on South Clear Creek, 22 miles west of Golden, and 16 miles east of | Georgetown—elevation 7,800 feet. The | population is about 1,000, nearly all of whom are engaged in mining in the vi- cinity. There are some good blocks of business buildings, a concentrating works, several stamp mills, a bank, stores and small shops of all kinds, many fine private residences, and two large hotels, besides a number of boarding houses. The Beebe House is the principal hotel. In April, 1859, gold was discovered in paying quantities, on what is known now as Chicago Creek, a small stream that comes down from the south, opposite the station in Idaho, but these placer diggings were soon worked out, and then came the search for quartz mines, the result of which has made this county one of the most noted in the mountains as a gold and silver producing region. Numerous quartz mills, and many rich lodes are situated near Idaho. The Seaton is on the side of the mountain, north, in plain view from the town; Virginia Can- yon coming in to the north, has several; Chicago Creek, to the south, contains among others, the Cascade, into which a tunnel has been driven 550 feet. Idaho, for its hot and cold mineral springs—and swimming baths—has be- come noted as an attractive summer resort. jt is claimed the waters contain rare me- dicinal properties, and are nearly identical, in chemical ingredients and temperature, with the celebrated Carlsbad waters of Germany. Prof. Pohel gives the follow- ing as the analysis of the water in propor- tion to the gallon. Carbonate:of SOda.....ccccecs cet eee a0 oe oe 30.80 o SMMC... ec cU ce aed (nek e.g Gat alto 9.52 ete SO IMaoMesTA ss iced sc . oat) 2.38 Ks Who MOM) oo ee dart Rinse «+0412 Sulphate of Soda. ec. 2 5 wees ee ee 29.36 Ure MB OTIGR A Ol ose ot eae aes 18.72 ee ON IME ee ak ook Le ba enie 3.44 Chioride of Sodium... 20.25. 5.+., ipeioe eae. 4.16 Chlorides of Calcium aud Magnesium, of each a trace. Silicate or Sodas, os 50.0.5 men ee ee ewes ese as 4.08 Grains... 5.5... ae sein eee oeeels 7107.00 At the springs are two swimming baths, one 80 by 50 feet, five feet deep, the other 20 on SE AHOTO-ENE. CO. (See Annex No. 14.\ CB) fe OT EN ARS CR EE TE ETT MEERUT chee AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 73 by 40, and four feet deep, also private baths, varying in temperature from 60 to 110 deg. fahr., so arranged that the bather has full control of the temperature of the water. Besides the springs above named, there is, in close proximity, a cold mineral spring of sparkling, effervescent water, which, for drinking purposes, is very excellent. [We hear a rumor that the railroad company propose, at an early day, to erect at these springs a large hotel capable of accommodating 200 guests, and that the house will de provided with all modern improvements, the hot and cold spring water conducted into every room, and to baths—on every floor, which will be free to all guests of the house.] Good accommodations can be had at the hotels and boarding houses -for prices ranging from $7 to $14 per week. To the south of Idaho—at Brookvale— on Bear Creek, is a very beautiful summer resort. It is the residence of W. E. Sisty, Esq., Fish Commissioner for the State of Colorado; and what Sisty cannot tell you about fish in this State, would add little te your education. Game of all kinds, deer, elk, mountain sheep, mountain bison, are abundant, and some of the finest trout fish- ing near, that can be found in the whole mountain region. Leaving Idaho, and continuing on up the north side of the creek, we come to Spanish Bar, once noted for its placer diggings; near, is located the Whale mill, on the opposite side of the creek. This is a brick building, 75 by 189 feet, with two wings, 50 by 75 feet, built in 1864, and intended for 128, and provided with Bertola stamps (weighing 300 pounds each), an iron Chilian mill for each bat- tery, tanks for catching the crushed ore, tanks for treating it by the Bertola pro- cess, and 100 Bertola pans. About 600 feet above the mill, a dam was built, which -SUMMIT .OF THE MOUNTAINS, 10,000 FEET HIGH.’ 74 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST afforded ample water for driving two large turbine wheels. To the south, away on up the side of the mountain, is located the Whale mine, marked by an old tram-way down to the mill. The parties owning the mill and mine resided in England, and after expending $200,000 in the vicinity, abandoned it, and nothing has been done with the works or mine in the last twelve years. Just above Spanish Bar, Trail Run comes in from the southwest; up this creek are some good quartz mines, and exten- sive forests of timber. Fall River, another small creek, about eight miles long, on which are over 1,000 quartz claim loca- tions, and several mills, comes down a half mile above Trail Run, from the north. Above Fall River, half-a-mile, Turkey Run comes down from the south, at the junction of which, and Clear Creek, is lo- cated the Syracuse Mill. A little further on we have Spring Gulch, from the north, where is located some mills and valuable mines. From Idaho, our train passes all the points above named, and after a run of 5 6-10 miles arrives at Miu Crry—at the mouth of Mill Creek, which comes down from the northward. At Mill City is located several quartz mills, and aboye, on the creek, are some valuable quartz mines, a smelting furnace, and several stamp mills. Passing several mills, numerous prospect holes and tun- nels in the mountain sides, some placer mining along the creek, and we come to Lawsons—a small sidetrack station at the base of Red Elephant Mountain. In the fall of 1877, several rich quartz mines were discovered on this mountain, and large quantities of ore hauled down to this station and shipped Hast, and to Prof. Hill’s works, at Black Hawk. The opening or “dump” of some of the mines, can be seen away up near the top of the mountain, marked by a white deposite line, extending down towards the valley below. Continuing up, 1 3-10 miles, we pass Emprre—a small town situated on the north side of the road, in as pretty a loca tion and with as picturesque surroundings as can be found in the mountains of Col- orado. Bard’s Creek, from the south, and Lyon’s, from the north, reach Clear Creek opposite each other, their deltas, with the elevated bars of the creek, form- ing the town site. The great mountains of Douglas, Covode, Lincoln, and Eureka, rise above the town in different directions 1,500 feet or more. The elevation of Em- pire is 8,588 feet. North, about one mile, away up on the mountain, 1,400 feet, is located the Empire mines. There are quite a number of stamp mills and furnaces for treating ores located at and near the town, on Lyon’s Creek and North Empire. The road over the range to the Middle Park, via Berthoud Pass—11,350 feet—runs through Empire, and is one of the most beautiful mountain roads for variety of ever-changing panoramic views, to be had in the world. From Empire, our road lies on the west side of the creek, running along the base of Republican Mountain, which rises above the road, almost perpendicular, 1,250 feet, while on the east, Alpine Moun- tain elevates its crest, 2,000 feet high; on the sides of these mountains are shafts, os and prospect holes in great num- ers. Our course is south, 4 2-10 miles to the end of the road at GEORGETOWN—which is situated in the center of the great silver mining region of Colorado, at the base of the Snowy Range, near the source of Clear Creek, —8,452 feet elevation—22 miles west from Idaho, 54 from Denver, and 184 from Chey- enne. ‘ Georgetown is the county seat of Clear Creek county, has a population of 4,500, and some very good business blocks; one bank, numerous stamp mills and ore sampling and reduction works, five churches, good schools, two weekly news- papers—the Miner and the Courtver—and quite a number of hotels, chief of which are the Barton, the Phelps and the Ameri- can. The Barton is one of the best houses in Colorado, and, together with its “Annex” opposite, is capable of accommodatin 200 guests. Masonic, Odd Fellows an other secret orders have their halls for meetings. Gas works supply the town with illuminating facilities, and water— the finest in the world—is conducted in pipes from a mammoth reservoir, 500 feet above the city, which affords great protec- tion in case of fire. There are a number of little towns and mining camps near oo chief of which are Silver Plume, Brownville and Silver Dale, from two to three miles dis- tant. One remarkable fact exists—and we have iit cn a pe ag i a er ec can ee re Ns gece Gee AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. FOREST VIEW—THE FOOT HILLS OF CALIFORNIA. it on good authority—that the thermometer never has been known to mark more than four degrees below zero in the city of Georgetown. Situated as it is, this city, at the head of the valley, walled in on three sides by lofty mountains, which protect it from the wind and storms, the air is of great purity, and the climate mild. The first discovery of silver in this re- gion, was made by James Huff, Sept. 14th, 1864; the location is about eight miles above Georgetown. The Georgetown people boast of a bit of scenery, about ten minutes walk from the hotel, called the “Devil’s Gate” and “ Bridal Vail.”. Now what the “Bridal Vail” has got todo with the “ Devil’s Gate, we never could understand. Are they synonymous words ? GREEN Laxe—is 2 1-2 miles distant from Georgetown, reached by an easy car- riage road that winds up the side of the mountain, from which there is a fine view of the valley and the town. This beautiful body of water, half-a-mile long by a quar- ‘ter wide, is without a peer in any land. In a row in one of the elegant boats over its surface, the tourist can see the petrified forest standing upright many feet below the surface, with trout swimming among its branches. Here, in the large hatching houses, are thousands of California salmon of various ages, while in the lake there have been placed over ten thousand trout. THE SnakE River Pass—has also a good carriage road to its summit. Here you can stand, one foot resting on the At- lantic, the other on the Pacific Slope. From this point is one of the grandest views of mountain scenery on the conti- nent, including the Mount of the Holy Cross, so named by the early explorers from the gigantic cross of ‘eternal snow that rests upon the bosom of the mountain. The tourist can here pick flowers with one hand and gather snow with the other. lah lt ami CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Gray’s PHak—is reached by carriage- road, and easy bridle trail from George- town. The road passes through Silver Plume and Brownville, both important as silver mining towns. The scenery on the route is very beautiful, and after reaching the summit, one of the grandest mountain views in the world lies before the tourist. Should you see sunrise from the summit of this grand old mountain, you would feel like exclaiming with the poet: ‘The hills—the everlasting hills— How peerlessly they rise! Like earth’s gigantic sentinels Discoursing in the skies!” Mipp.ie ParkK—with its celebrated hot sulphur springs—bathing in which, it is said, “restores health to the invalid and gives beauty to the homely,’—is reached by stage, which leaves Georgetown every other day. In the park, trout are caught in all the streams, and elk, deer, bears, and small game are plentiful among its hills.. This is a trip that tourists who are fond of hunt- ing game worthy o-< their best efforts to ob- tain, or catching the shining trout for their morning sport, will not fail to make, and when made, will never be forgotten. To the southeast of the town, the road leads over the mountains to Breckenridge, in the South Park, crossing the range at an altitude of 138,000 feet. Georgetown is the home of some of Col- orado’s oldest and most esteemed pioneers, among whom is Stephen Decatur, Esq., late: Commissioner from the State, to the Centennial Exposition, at Philadelphia. The “Commodore,” as Mr. Decatur is more commonly called, has become widely known and respected throughout the State as a correspondent for many of the Eastern papers, and as editor, for a long time, of the Georgetown Miner, as well as for his course in the legislative halls of the State. In conclusion—as we have advised the tourist in regard to the carriage routes from the city, it would seem quite proper to state that there are several livery stables in the city; but the one where the tourist will get the most complete outfit at the most reasonable price, is Known as the “Metropolitan Livery Stable and Omnibus Line,” by 8. W. Nott. We now return to Golden, and start down the creek between the Table Mountains en- route for the capital of Colorado. JUNCTION—is two miles east, near the site of: the old town of Arapaho—where | b ccobhees gold was discovered in 1859 and . over fifty houses erected, none of which are now standing. The Junction is a small station where passengers—while the road from Ralston to this point, on the east side of the Table Mountains was in operation—‘ changed cars’? for different points, the same as is now done at Golden. From the junction our course is along down the north bank of Clear Creek— passing the mouth of Ralston and many irrigating canals—through some fine farms and well cultivated fields. We pass many cosy farm houses, and a_side-track, six miles from the junction, called Arvapsa—where we cross the creek to the southeast, and—after gaining the high rolling prairie four miles further—arrive at the Summir—another station only in name. On this “Summit,” had we time to look around, the view would be most beautiful. The city of Denver lies to the southeast, the “Divide,” to the south, the great Platte Valley close in the foreground, and to the right and left, the broad plains in the far east limitless apparently to the eye, while in the background, are the Rocky Mountains, the base of which is near, but the peaks, and the “range,” to the north and south, is only bounded by the horizon. But, we must away! Down- ward, over the rolling prairie, two miles further brings us to a broad, beautiful piece of bottom land, containing a few hundred acres, where—in 1860—was the old race-track. In 1874, the writer had as fine crops on one hundred acres of ‘this land, as could be seen in the country, but, the great flood of May “came as the waves come when navies are stranded,” and took the “boy’s” last 15 cents to the Missouri River. From the Summit it is 314 miles down to the Platte River, where the train crosses it, and another half-mile stops us at Demver—the capital, and great rail- road and commercial center of the State of Colorado. The population of this re- markable city is 20,000; an annual average increase—commencing at 0, nineteen years ago—of over 1,000 people. Denver is the county seat of Arapaho county, fourteen miles east, in a direct line, from the base of the Rocky Moun- tains. It is situated in the valley of the South Platte River—on the eastern bank— AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. ° worship is’ held, eight banks, including at a point where the rolling prairie land three for savings; secret orders are numer- gradually slopes to the westward, facing the mountains at the junction of Cherry Creek, 5,224 feet above sea level. _ The mountains extend north and south as far as the eye can trace their rugged heights. The highest points, Long’s Peak, to the north, Pike’s Peak, to the south, and the “dome of the continent,” Gray’s, in the center, are in full view, towering far above the tops of the surrounding moun- tains. An open, rolling country surrounds the city, being the outer border of that im- mense plain which stretches away to the waters of the Missouri River, 600 miles to the eastward. Denver is built up prin- cipally with brick of the best quality, pro- duced near the city—and in point of rich- ness, beauty, and the style of its private residences, is not to be outdone by any city five times its age. The city has many fine brick business blocks, a United States mint, 20 church edifices, or places where regular public Spi eee en iee ous, so much so, that there are no secrets any more—say what you like. Of flour- ing mills, there are five; street car lines, several; breweries, three. The city is provided with water by means of a canal 15 miles long, which con- ducts the water from the mouth of the Platte Canyon, to the southwest, over the high prairie to a reservoir above the city, from which, a portion of it, is made to flow through the streets of the city, and the parks and grounds of many of the citizens. The influence for good, of these little sparkling streams.of pure mountain water, and the long rows of shade trees that have been set out on each side of the streets, within the last five years—upon the health of the citizens, as well as the sanitary con- dition of the city, cannot be overestimated or described. Besides the above, Denver is well sup- plied with seminaries, schools, gas works, YO-SEMITE FALLS, 2,634 FEET FALL, YO-SEMITE. VALLEY,. 78 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST four daily newspapers—the News, Times, Tribune, and the Democrat, each of which issue weeklies—together with eight or ten others, that are exclusively weekly, the principal of which are, the Rocky Moun- tain Herald, (who has not heard of Gold- rick’s Herald?) the Colorado Farmer, the Journal, and the Mirror. In fact, Denver is supplied with aii the “modern improve- ments,” including many big hotels, and more little hotels, but the principal ones are the Grand Central, the American, with its annex, the Inter-Ocean, and the Went- worth. What cannot be found in Denver, you need not hunt for in the West. The State Agricultural Society has 40 acres of ground adjoining Denver, where stalls, etc., have been erected for the ac- commodation of animals at the annual fairs. A half-mile race track is laid out and the buildings and the land enclosed with a concrete wall, the whole costing about $10,000. The Ford Park Association have a race track about two miles northeast of the city; itis handsomely enclosed, and kept in good repair. On every afternoon the fast horses of Denver and their fast drivers can be seen enjoying the smooth track at 2:40 speed. Tux BoarpD oF TRADE was organized in Denver in the fall of 1867, by the capital- ists and business men of the city, especzally to build the Denver Pacific railroad, which it aided to a great extent. The Board has ‘taken the lead since, however, in all public enterprises, and has been one of the lead- ing instrumentalities in promoting the growth and prosperity of the city. Narrow GaugeE—The first narrow gauge railroad in Colorado, was organized by the writer, and incorporated January 30, 1868. It was called: “The Arapaho, Jefferson & South Park railroad.” When this road was incorporated, there was not a foot of railroad track in Colorado, anf not a shovel-full of dirt had been moved to construct one. The nearest lumber had to be hauled on wagons, from 35. to 60 miles, and sold in Denver, from $50 to $100 per thousand feet. Wood had to be hauled over 25 miles, and at times sold as high as $80 per cord. Coal was hauled from 15 to | 23 miles, and sold from $12 to $30 per ton. ' Just previous to the organization of the above company, the Denver Pacific Rail- road Co., had secured the bonds of Arapaho county to the amount of $500,000, in aid of their road, and were advertising for bids for 200,000 ties, and the Kansas Pacific Company—claiming all timber within twenty-five miles of their line—had warned all persons against cutting ties within that limit, under penalty of the law. To build this “ baby road ” to the timber region, beyond the prescribed limits, and put in the 200,000 ties for the Denver Pacific, was the incentive which prompted the writer in attempting to build the Ara- paho, Jefferson & South Park railroad. The route was westward from Denver via Mt. Vernon Canyon, to Bergin town- ship, 80 miles distant. The route was duly surveyed and found satisfactory; the money and labor necessary was ready to complete the road in 90 days—conditional, however, on securing the tie contract. The ties could be purchased atthe end of the road in the mountains, for 15 cents each with all down grade to Denver. Then it was that a bid was handed to the President of the “D. P.,” offering to put in 200,000 ties for 50 cents each. This bid was immediately taken to Omaha, and the con- tract given to two of her citizens, at a price considerably more than double the amount for which the narrow gauge company of- fered to contract. On the return of the official from Omaha, the writer was told by the then President of the Board of Trade, and a “director” of the Denver Pacific: “Crofutt, your bid was too low; if you had bid higher—at a price high enough for us all to make something —you could have had the contract.” We immediately wilted. Previous to that time, we would have made an affidavit that every man, woman and child in Colorado was honest, and all working together for the common good. Well, time passed, the child died, the “boy ” fled the country, and only after ten years, returns to record a Uttle of the early history of “narrow gauge” in Col- orado. Earuier History—The first settlement where Denver now stands, was made Nov. ist, 1858. Aurara, now West Denver, was laid out and named on the 4th, and on the 6th, there being 200 people present, an election was held, and H. J. Graham was elected a delegate to Congress, and in- structed to get the “Pike’s Peak gold mines” set apart from Kansas as a separate Territory. On the 8th, Mr. Graham started for Washington on horseback. In December following, the town of St AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. U2 Charles was laid out, where Hast Denver now stands. In the following spring, the town was sold, and the purchasers named the place Denver. On the 2ist of April, 1859, the first printing press arrived in Aurara, and in 27 hours from its arrival, the first cop of the Rocky Mountain News was issued, with Wm. N. Byers and Thomas Gibson as editors and proprietors. May 7th, 1859, two “ Pike’s Peak” ex- press coaches arrived, 19 days from Leav- enworth. In July, 1860, the U. 8. postoffice was first opened in Denver, previous to which it cost 25 cents to $1.00 for ach letter, be- sides the U. 8. postage, according to the amount of competition. Vow, how changed! Rar~Roaps—The following roads h ve their termini in Denver: The Kansas P»- cific, Denver Pacific,Col rado Central, en- ver, South Park & Pacific and the Denver & Rio Grande. Toe Kansas Pacrric RAILWwAY—was completed from the Missouri River in the fall of 1870, and trains run regularly. The depot is on the east side of the Platte River, on the bottom land, a half-mile north of the city, where is also the depot of the Denver Pacific and the Denver & Rio Grande. From Denver, the course of the K. P. trains is down the Platte, along the table- land for a few miles, and then turns to the eastward, passing for 250 miles over a high “rolling prairie” adapted wholly to grazing purposes, except in small places where the road crosses Kiowa, Wolf and Comanche creeks, and the branches of Bijou Creek and in Bijou Basin; and as a stock country, a greater portion of this region has no superior. THe Denver, Soura Park & Pacrric Rar~RoaAD—A narrow gauge road under | this title was organized and surveyed in 1874. The line starts from Denver and fol- lows up the Platte River and Deer Creek, and enters the South Park within a dis- tance of about 65 miles, thence to the San Juan country, with Salt Lake as an ob- jective point. The line will traverse—within the first 100 miles—a country rich in gold, silver, coal, copper, and many other minerals; the finest and most extensive timber lands; the salt region of the South Park, near where are the most valuable quarries of anite and lime; through extensive graz- ing lands, where game is abundant and the scenery the most enchanting. In the spring of 1875, the road was com- pleted to Morrisons, 16 miles, and is now— March ist, 1878—being pushed ahead vig- orously through the canyons, and will be completed within a few months to a point in the South Park, 75 miles distant. We will now take a run down the Denver & Rio Grande R.R. The General offices of this road are at Denver, Colorado, GEN’D. WM. J. PALMER..........-200000 President. W.-W. BORST. 28. 500) cane Superintendent. G.C, DODGE. s ic.0.5 cece Gen’l Passenger Agent. his enterprise is the “pioneer, three-foot, narrow gauge freight and passenger rail- road of the world.” Its objective point is El Paso and the “ City of the Montezumas” —Mexico. The work of grading commenced in March 1871, and the first train reached Col- oradv Springs October 27th, of the same year; distance, 76 miles. June 15th, 1872, the road was completed to Pueblo, 44 miles further. The branch to Canyon City—40 miles—was completed in July, 1874, and the main line to El Moro, 86 miles south of Pueblo, in April, 1876. Work was commenced in May, 1876, on the line from Cucharas—over the Sangre de Christo Mountains, via Veta Pass, to Garland—220 miles from Denver— and completed Au- gust 6th, 1877, making the total mileage of the road and branches 297 miles. The road is now being extended, and we learn, will be completed to the Rio Grande River, in the center of San Louis Valley— 60 miles distant from Garland—by May, 1878, where a new town is being laid out, called ‘“ Almosa.” Is the time far distant when the tourist will hear, on approaching the depot in Denver, “All aboard for Santa Fe, City of Mexico, Panama, and Cape Horn?” Quien sabe? But we must away. The traveler making the first trip on a narrow-gauge road, will be surprised to find how com- fortable the cars are, and how smoothly they ride. Leaving Denver, the cars run along through the western edge of the city, cross Cherry Creek, which rises in the Arkansas Divide, 50 miles to the south, and canyons through Plum Creek Divide, 40 miles above the city, the read passing the com- pany’s machine shops 2 2-10 miles distant on. the right. The grand old mountain range looms up = in the distance on our right; the: Platte River is, in places, close on the same side, while between the river and the moun- tains lies a stretch of fourteen miles of as beautiful rolling prairie land as one could wish to see. Four miles from Denver we pass the pi- oneer ranche of the country, on the right. The land which it embraces was taken up in the spring of 1859, by Mr. Rufus Clark, who is commonly called by all old settlers “Potato Clark,” from the fact that Mr. Clark was the first person in the country to raise acrop of potatoes. Having sold most of the crop at prices ranging from 20 to 35 cents per pound, after having cut off and saved the seed end of each to plant the next season, he come to make the potato crop a speciality, to a great extent, and in the years from 1860 to 1865, often had 250 | acres of potatoes, which yielded enor- mously. Mr. Clark is a man who always buys for cash, and sells forthe best price the market will afford, and although he has often been called close in exacting his due, no person ever questioned his sterling integrity. It was along the river, just above, where gold was first discovered on the Platte in 1859, but the “diggings” were not profitable and were abandoned. About one mile further, Bear Creek comes into the Platte, on the west side, its junction being marked by trees, houses and well-cultivated fields. Hight miles from Denver, we pass PETERSBURG—an unimportant track, and two miles further come to LrrrLeton—This station is composed of a dozen or more buildings, surrounded by some fine farms and farm houses; most of the latter are painted white, and the flow- ers and shrubbery surrounding them look as though there was a woman in the family. Passing on, the bluffs and ravines seem gradually to close in on our left, and we roll through numerous cuts, cross the canal that supplies Denver with water, pass AcEQuAa—a side-track, and then PuiumM—another station only in name, opposite Platte Canyon. Our course is now to the southeast—up Plum Creek—which we shall follow for 25 miles. This is arough and very little cultivated, eee country, but well adapted to stock-raising, many vast herds of. cattle appearing thereon. few miles further, we pass, on the right, the site of the old Fisher mill of side- CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 1860. Opposite this mill, comes down the old Plum Creek Divide wagon-road, which left the railroad six miles south of Denver on the Platte, turning up over the ridge, via the “Pretty Woman’s Ranche,” of 1860-8, situated at a spring on the southern slope of the Divide, five miles distant. Continuing along, we pass, on the right, Fisher Ranche, and then come to CasTLE Rook Sratton—32 8-10 miles from Denver, so named for a huge castella- ted rock that stands away up on the apex of a spur of the Divide, that here projects out into the valley, as though to bar our way. At Castle Rock there is a settlement of about 50 people. Some of the bot tom land along the creek is cultivated, and some to the eastward, up a little valley, but the greater portion depend upon stock raising. The road from this station turns to the south 2 6-10 miles to Dovueuass—a side-track, and a rugged country, with very little land fit for cultiva- ting, then 3 2-10 miles to GLADE—another side-track. It is 3 9-10 miles from here to HUNTSVILLE—This station was named after Ex-Governor Hunt, of Colorado, one of the earliest promoters of the road. In rolling along up the valley we have passed the “ Old Mother Coberly Ranche,” on the opposite side of the valley. A short distance further, the site of an old saw- mill appears, and a little further, near this station the old “Block House,’’ built in June, 1874, for protection against the Indians. At that time about 560 people lived near by, engaged in lumbering and freighting. ’ Ivan Cracken, the first country residence of the writer, in 1860, is situated due east from this station, four miles distant, at the head of Cherry Creek Canyon. This domi- cile was constructed at the time “ the rocks were rent,” and it is thought there has been little change in the premises during the last 1800 years. From our last station the country has been very bluffy; on the left covered with some pine and scrub oak trees. Hight miles further brings us to LarKspur—but we will not see the “lark? or the “spur,” unless the latter is a “cowboy,” and the “cattle on a thousand hills,” are larks; but one thing is certain, when the cattle get on a lark it requires a great deal of spur to overtake them. -..We are now. opposite Irving Valley, | | | { | | AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. three miles distant to the eastward, on the headwaters of Cherry Creek. This isa lovely little valley about six miles long, and a half-mile wide, first settled in 1860, completely over-run by Indians in 1864, and some of the settlers killed; and was raided by Indians, at various times since, until 1870. Our train is now climbing the Divide, on a heavy grade; the air is pure and clear, the country is rough and broken, with here and there a little opening; the huge mountains rise high on the right, but their base is five miles away, and the long timber-marked water-shed that divides the waters of the Platte from the Arkansas Valley, stretches away to the east. and is lost in the distance, extending 100 miles. The next station—on paper—is 3 8-10 miles further on, and is called GREENLAND—buttrains seldom stop here. A side-track is its chief feature of civiliza- tion, but 5 3-8 miles further we arrive at the Divipp—Here is a postoffice, called Weissport. A few miles before reaching the station, on the rirht, can be seen a long, rocky, castellated ridge, like which many are to be seen along the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains. Before reaching the station, when looking ahead, the prospect of getting beyond the mountain ridge, which rises up, as though to bar our progress, is hopeless—appar- ently—but remembering that it was this company that built their road over the Sangre de Christo Mountains, we are con- vinced that with them, “all things are possible” (in railroad building), In proof of this we climb to the Divide, turn to the left, from a sharp mountain spur; and roll down toward the great Arkansas | Valley. Our course is now more to the eastward, with the Valley of Monuments and Mon- ument Creek on the right, and ahead—al- most at our feet—Pike’s Peak. MonumeEntT—is the next station, 5 3-10 miles from the Divide. The mountains, | far to the right, show droppings of red sandstone, rising slab-like from its side several hundred feet in height. At Monument there is quite a settlement of agriculturists, stock, and lumbermen. The village is near the site of the “Dirty Woman’s Ranche,” of 1860. Downward rolls our train 2 4-10 miles to Borsr’s—named for the superintendent of the road. Trains stop on signal. Cattle Tanges appear; long timber ridges are 81 seen on the left, the same above noted. It is 8 6-10 miles more to HustEeps—another signal station. Passing on through a timbered and rugged country, bluffy and wild, crossing Monument Creek several times in five miles, and we come to EpcERTON—where are piles of |umber, indicating saw mills near. “ Continuing down the creek, cattle and sheep are numerous, and a few fields and gardens appear. Occasionally on the right we catch a glimpse of some of those pe- culiar rocks, which rise up in places, in this vicinity, on the sides of the hills, to the height of from 20 to 50 feet. These are round, and from 3 to 10 feet in diame- ter, surmounted with a cap, in one case resembling a Spanish sombrero. They are called by various names, but by the gen- eral name of “Monuments,” from which this valley and creek derive their names. From Edgerton, it is 8 2-10 miles to CoLoRADO Sprines—and 76 miles from Denver. This city was laid out in July, 1871, and settled by the Fountain Colony. It is situated on a high, broad plateau, to the east of, and about one-half mile above the junction of Monument Creek from the north, with the Fountain Qui Bouille, from the west. This thriving place is the county seat of El Paso county, and contains—the city proper—a popula- tion of about 2,500, with. three miles sur- roundings, giving about 3,500. The citizens have erected some fine buildings, which include a_ college, churches, banks, schools, hotels, and many private residences. The streets are 100 feet broad, and the avenues 150 feet in width, with sidewalks 12 feet wide. Along the avenues rows of trees have been set out near the sidewalks, and little streams of water are rippling along beside them, from the large canals built by the | citizens for irrigating purposes. There are several hotels in the city, chief ‘of which are the Crawford and the Colo- rado Springs Hotel. Two papers, the Gazette and the Mountaineer, greet the citi- zens weekly. The principal mercantile business of the city is with the mining region of the South Park and San Juan country, via the Ute Pass wagon-road, | which leaves the city for the West, and | proceeds up Fountain Creek and over the mountains to the north and west of Pike’s Peak. Colorado Springs has become quite 82 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST noted as a tourist’s resort. The fine ac- commodations, magnificent mountain views, the soda springs, the Garden of the Gods, the petrified stumps, the monu- ment towers, and theramble around and up the mountains—even to the summit of the towering old Pike’s Peak, with an altitude of over 14,000 feet—all this unsurpassed scenery can be viewed, and visited with convenience from the hotel, as carriages are run at stated intervals to Manitou, and other points. We will step in to one and note what can be seen. CoLtoraDo Crry—is situated two miles west, over a fine road, at the base of Pike’s Peak. It was the first settlement in the “Pike’s Peak gold mines,” in 1858. At one timeit had a population of 300, now 100. The Fountain Qui Bouille, a small stream formed from springs and melted snows around the base and upon the sum- mits of the mountain, supplies the town with water, and is also used for irrigating purposes, for many miles below. GARDEN OF THE Gops—A bout two miles west is a singularly wild and beautiful place, to which some poetic individual has given the title which heads this paragraph. Two high ridges of rock rise perpendicu- larly from the valley to a height of 200feet or more, buta few yards apart, forming a lofty enclosure, which embraces a beautiful miniature valley, which seems to nestle here away from the gaze of the passer-by in quiet romantic grandeur. For illustra- tion, see ANNEX No. 14. Manrrou—elevation, 6,821 feet. These famous springs are situated five miles west of Colorado Springs, the city, at the very foot of Pike’s Peak, on the north side, in as romantic a little nook as one can conceive. They are six in number, named: Manitou, Navajo, Ute-Soda, Sho- shone, Iron Ute, and Little Chief. Prof. Loew, of Lieut. Wheeler’s exploring ex- pedition, gives the analyses of the different springs as follows: eli econo tet ee m4]: = sogoes| | si 2. Oo : Dmg fp i et et Oo f: 8): B2Ch ere a . st oe SsOgee? fea Bes So?° pape BES = es es]: Bi 2: Bon? E g.: 2 c.f &. @: &: et = gt. BG * 6 : tO net oS 7. & et. Be te = see ge se ee ee Oo a) ee] ee 2 6 Fe fe Cc Z te eee eee he res] wt ; | Z| p tS) : fe pak. st SF: 3 Writ! ee | @ foe pepe. eeer| s o HH * &] maha: wo my : S| S358: SE8S1 5 m mM | oo bg SU poy BO gq a E = bo a tt et mt FF | SPeesScee ee ol coy? & oS | Bene Bsr] s = Te es QR i ee : oS ea fod 2 2 8 > ES) SeSesnoSeh) os 8 & -65 |" Se ees Ss | 2 es oo ooo wb Q paolo @2ca ieee pe me es @ — CEB) Bmw: t Siqmlon| & & o B([ GwNo : SEO!) F9) Bw TT Sl] ROH: oe w@] - e wv wo Ow: o & — . bode : B| & oe a a ° @ es et eo 9 moka, 4 ct 2, CO] WE ONAPOSS g OO. DD] mamoawas &] Fg . « of COD OS. a » > at we * my ao cof ee mre SP Rt Si | wR on ENS S| ge . wiwmwwomw” |: > BI SSGRSSS a These springs are highly recommended for their medicinal qualities. The early emigrants of 1859-60 often used the waters of the Navajoe Spring for making bread; by the addition of a little acid it makes a very fine article. Manitou—in the summer, is a busy town, of 1,000 or more people—all bent on yo = = fe — ey FIRS£ STEAM RAILROAD TRAIN IN AMERICA—See Annex No. 7. eee | AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 83 enjoyment. Fountain Creek ripples we have seen before, and better fenced, through the place, along the banks of|some with wire. Passing on 4 6-10 miles, which are many trees—cottonwood, pine, cedar and willow. Cosey little cottages peep out here and there from among the trees, rocks, and gulches, as though afraid their secluded retreat would be discovered. There are three large hotels at Manitou —besides several small ones. The Beebe can accommodate 200 guests; the Cliff, 100; while the Manitou House—open sum- mer and winter, and the pleasantest in point of location—has ample accommo- dations for full 250 guests. From Manitou, the distance to the fol- lowing places are: Garden of the Gods, 8 1-2 miles; Glen Eyrie, Queen’s Canyon, to Devil’s Punch-Bowl, 51-2 miles; to Cheyenne Canyon and Seven Falls, ten miles; Summit of Pike’s Peak, nearest trail, ten miles; Monument Park, with Mammoth Anvil, Dutch Wedding, Vul- can’s Workshop and Dunce’s Parliament, ten miles; Ruxton’s Glen, Iron Spring and Ute Pass, 1 1-2 miles; To Billy Goat Canyon the distance is 11-2 miles. Those who wish to hunt game as ¢s game, will find that their heart’s fondest desire in that we come to Fountarn—here the sage and brush land shows the effects of irrigation. The town is a few hundred yards to our right, contains about 30 piaces of business and residences, situated on an elevated table- tand, most of which is under cultivation. Between the railroad and the mountains on the west, is spread out as fine a grazing section of land as there is in the State, ex- tending southward 100 miles along the eastern base of the mountains, and from five to 15 miles in width. The old wagon road from Colorado City runs along the foot of these mountains to Canyon City, 25 miles distant Continuing down, the sand-bluffs close in onthe left, and our train rolls down on to the creek bottom, where the cotton- woods and willows are very dense, and after crossing the creek, we stop at LrrrLz Burres—Near this station, Lit- tle Fountain Creek comes in from the west, upon which is some fine farming land, which produced abundant crops— never fatling a crop. direction can be grati- fied in this region. We now return to the railroad at Colo- rado Springs, and pro- ceedto the south. Half- -a-mile south we come to Fountain Qui Bouil- le Creek, where our course changes to the eastward, and follows along down its north- ern bank. In places the bluffs are close on our left—and then some well’- cultivated fields appear on either hand. The old Military wagon road—via Jim’s Camp—Squirrel Creek Divide, Russellville on Cherry Creek, to Den- ver — branches off to the north just before reaching the next sta- tion. ‘WIDEFLELD — 8 8-10 miles from Colorado Springs. The fields here @re wider than DEVIL’S GATE, WEBER CANYON, U.P R.R, ' county, 84 The country for the next twenty miles is not much improved, as it cannot be de- pended upon for crops without irrigating them, and as water is not to be had, unless wells are dug and wind mills used for ele- vating the water, it will doubtless remain as it is—a stock range. From Little Buttes, it is 11 5-10 miles to Prnon—a side-track, and 11 7-10 miles further to Norra PuEBLo—but passenger trains seldom stop, as the town lays nearer South Pueblo station than the one bearing its name. On the east side of the Fountain is situ- ated East Pueblo, reached by a bridge on our left. From North Pueblo station, our route is along the creek, through deep cuts made through a round butte, that seems to rise up in our way, cross the track of the Atch- ison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, and the Arkansas River, and a run from the last station of 2 5-10 miles brings the train to Sours Pursio—This is a regular eating station, where a full meal can be had for 79 cents, As North Pueblo and South Pueblo are really one city, separated only by the Ar- kansas River, we shall speak of them as Puxnsio—This city is located in the rich Arkansas valley, on the Arkansas River, near its junction with the Fountain Qui Bouille, and contains about 4,000 inhabi- tants. It is the county seat of Pueblo and besides the Denver & Rio Grande, is connected by rail with Canyon City, 48 miles to the west, up the Arkansas River, and all the Eastern world, via Atch- ison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, down the Arkansas. The county buildings are the best in the State; the schools are good; church ac- commodations ample. ueblo has four banks, smelting works, a planing mill, rolling mill, foundry and machine shop, two flouring mills, several hotéls, and one daily newspaper—the Chieftain. The business of the city is, to a great ex- tent, connected with the mining business to the west and south—San Juan, South Park and the Cinmerron regions. Agriculture— along the Arkansas River and the adjacent streams—is very profitable, as the yield per acre of all kinds of small grains and veg- etables, is abundant; but above all others, stock raising is the most extensive. As a range for cattle and sheep, Pueblo and the adjoining counties, when the mild winters, CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST light snow fall, and rich and nutritious bunch grass are considered, are par ex- cellent. The fine water-power available, and these broad, fertile plains and productive up- lands, on which roam so many thousand sheep, point to the probable fact that woolen manufactories will soon be estab- lished here. There is certainly a fine op- portunity and a home market. The Arkansas Valley Division of the Denver and Rio Grande railroad, runs from South Pueblo, along up on the south side of the Arkansas River, where the country traversed is almost wholly given up to grazing purposes. The stations, and distances between them, are: Goodnight, 4 410 miles from Pueblo; Meadows, 4 6-10 miles further; Swallows, five miles; Carlisle Springs, 65-10 miles; Beaver Creek, 2 7-10 miles; Laban, 9 2-10 miles; and Coal Junction, 6-10 miles further; making 33 miles from South Pueblo. From the Coan Junction—a track branches off to the coal banks, two miles distant, while the main track continues on 7 5-10 miles further to Oanyon Crry—4014 miles from Pueblo. This city is the county seat of Fremont county, situated at the very gate of the mountains, in a lovely and productive little valley, and possesses some of the most at- ‘tractive scenery in Colorado. From Van- yon, it is about 12 miles to the “Grand Canyon of the Arkansas,” the towering walls of whiclrise in places perpendicular, 2,000 feet, between which runs the Arkan- sas River. Here is a grand view, that can be reached from the city, over a good wagon road, pide some magnificent changing scenery. Canyon, not to be out- done, has secured a first-class hot spring, which has been “ picketed out,» about one mile from the city. The baths are excellent. The first settlement was made at Canyon City, in the summer of 1859, and in 1860-1 some good stone buildings were erected, and a great amount of freight from the Missouri River, destined for Tarryall, Cali- fornia Gulch and the Blue, came up the Arkansas route, and went into the moun- tains, via Canyon City. Then it was that prospects were bright for a big city at Canyon, and corner lots advanced, but the mines—being all “placer mines” at that time—became worked out, and Canyon declined. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. INTERIOR VIEW OF SNOW SHEDS ON THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS. crossed, also a broad prairie on which graze thousands of cattle and sheep. The timbered country of the Greenhorn River is on the right, and soon our train Since the discovery of the San Juan country the city has taken a step ahead, and is now provided with banks, many large stores, churches, schools hotels, and sundry other accomplishments, including the State Penitentiary, and two weekly newspapers—the Times and the Avalanche. Stages leave Canyon City daily for Fair- play, distant 75 miles; Saguache, 100 miles; Del Norte, 125 miles; Lake City, 200 miles. Returning to Pueblo, we are again off for the south. Gradually we rise up out of the river bottom, and shape our course for the Span- ish Peaks, which we can see while 70 miles away. San Cartos—is the first station on the es but they all “pass it” and make for e GREENHORN—The first named is nine miles from Pueblo, and the second is 4 5-10 further. St. Charles Creek has been crosses the river and stops at Saur CrEEK—a_side-track. : right are some bold, high buttes; the high- est is called “Chinese Butte.’ Six miles further is the small side-track called GRANEROS—but we do not stop. Between our train and the mountains can be seen the great valley of the Green- horn, with the mountains of the same name rising from its western border. The next station is ten.miles distant, and is called Hurrrano — (pronounced Warf—a—no) This station is in the midst of the best erazing lands of Southern Colorado Leaving the station, we cross the river, and cross a high, undulating prairie—bluffy in places—for 13 miles to CucHara— (pronounced Q-charr-us) ‘To the 86 This station is the junction of the El] Moro Branch, 49 miles south of Pueblo, 169 miles from Denver, 87 miles from El Moro and 100 miles from Garland. Let us now “change cars’? and, while taking a run, note the results. Crossing the Cuchara River, and on, over a broad prairie—with the Spanish Peaks on our right—10 6-10 miles bring us to Sanra CriarRa—on the creek of that name. Just 9 4-10 miles further is ApiIisHapa—a small side-track on the river of the same name. Then, over a broad plain, 9 4-10 miles, is Cuicosa—and 7 38-10 miles more bring s to Ex Moro—the end of the track. This place is one destined to be a point of great importance. It is situated on a plain near the eastern base of the Raton Mountains, and although the town was laid out in the spring of 1876, it now has a population of over 700, and is doing a large and rapidly increasing business. The forwarding of goods for the southern country is one that centers a large amountof business at this new town; and stores, hotels, restaurants and shops of all kinds are springing up daily. A bank has been estabiished, and a newspaper soon will be. Near the town is located extensive coal mines. One vein that is now being worked is a horizontal 14-foot vein, so situ- ated that cars are run to the mouth of the mine and the coal is dumped, by a shute, into the cars. One great feature of this coal is its adaptability for coking. The railroad hauled away from E] Moro during the year 1877, 700 tons of coke; some was shipped as far as Salt Lake City, to be used in the smelting of ores, but the greater portion was taken to the furnaces at Black Hawk, Golden and Boulder. There are now in operation 32 coking ovens—and still the demand exceeds the supply. Prof. Gardner, of the U. 8. Geological Survey, made a number of careful experi- ments with this coal in 1875, and as a re- sult of his tests in reverberatory furnaces, he says: “Tn afew minutes both furnaces were en- U veloped ina sheet of burning gases, that went roaring up the flues. Heat became so intense that the ores had to be pulled back to the chimneys, for that left near the bridge melted down and ran like water. The flame and great heating power were CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST now too evident to be mistaken.” El Moro is 86 miles from Pueblo, 206 miles from Denver, five miles north of Trinidad, 65 miles to Cimerron, 105 miles to Fort Union, 150 miles to Las Vegas, and 205 miles to Santa Fe. Stages run daily to the last four named places; fare averages 15 cents per mile. TRinipAD—the county seat of Las Ani- mas county—is five miles south of El Moro, and is an old settled place; the reater proportion of the people are of Spanish or Mexican descent; stock rais- ing is the principal source of income. Coal mines are extensive—but until a rail- road is built to the town the demand can- not extend beyond home consumption. Returning to Cuchara, “change cars,” and we are off again—this time up the west bank of Cuchara River. Wasens—is the first station—6 7-10 miles from Cuchara. It is tastefully laid out—having been settled by a colony of Germans, who are ey in agriculture and stock: raising. From this the grade will be heavy, until we reach the summit of the mountain. In passing along up the creek, it will be observed that all the settlers are Mex- icans or Spanish, and they observe all the old customs of Spanish countries, particu- larly in their cultivation of the soil. They ignore the usual implements of husbandry to a great extent. They tickle the ground with a wooden plow; cut their grain with hand knives; thrash it out with goats, clean in the wind by dropping it to the ground from an elevated position when the wind is blowing. Then when the grain is gathered and cleaned it is pounded to a powder between large flat stones. Goats and sheep are their stock in trade. Their houses are of adobe, or, at best,-logs —and the number of children is only equaled by the number of dogs; but all seem happy, and we are inclined to say with the poet: “ Rustic ease and true content Are in this valley sweetly blent— And comfort smiles, and plenty reigns; Here peace has undisturbed domains; And here a rural, peaceful race Has found a fair abiding place; Its homes and plazas, simple, rude, The walls of stately pine trees hewed, Or rough adobes, crudely piled, The roofs with “ dirt’? recurely tiled, Are primitive. and cool and warm, Secure against the winter’s storm, And ’gainst the sun’s devouring rays When with the summer’s heat ablaze.” [There, that is the first poetry I ever AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 87 quoted in my life, and if the reader will excuse me this time, I will swear never to be caught doing so again. | WAHATOYA — is the next station, and a very appro- priate one it is. It is 6 9-10 miles south of Walsens. To the left, after leaving the station, a beautiful view can be had of the Spanish Peaks. The altitude of the east peak is 12,720 feet; that of the west peak is 18,620 feet. Con- tinuing a little far- ther, we have a fine view of Veta and the Sangre de Chris- to Mountains on the right. From _ the last station is 8 2-10 miles to LaVera—tThe first settler in this sec- tion of country was Col. Francisco, a Span- ish gentleman who came to La Veta 19 years ago, and built the house that he now lives in. La Vetais situated at an elevation of 6,970 feet, on the south branch of Cuchara Creek, at the northern base of the moun- tains, with the Spanish or “Twin Peaks” as immediate back-ground. The popula- tion is about 800. It boasts of some good buildings—a postoftice, a grist mill, and, if reports are true, good prospects for the future, as well as great present expecta- tions. It is reported that a silver mine has been discovered near, producing ore that mills $118 per ton; 100 claims have been staked; copper is also a late discovery, and coal seven miles west, on Middle Creek, and White Sulphur Springs, five miles south. At La Veta all extra cars are left behind, an extra locomotive is added, and the train starts out on an average grade of 211 feet to the mile, for 21 1-2 miles. In some places the grade is much higher, but the passenger need not fear, as the road is well built, the ties are close together and double it OVERLAND PONY EXPRESS—SEE ANNEX NO, at. spiked—the a and cars first-class, while the road-bed is blasted from the mountain side, making it as solid as the everlasting hills upon which it rests. Leaving La Veta, our course is ‘almost due west, winding up Middle Creek, and then on to a high plateau and up Veta Creek. As the train leaves the station at La Veta, the old Sangre de Christo wagon road, —stage road—can be seen on_ the left, where it winds around the side of the mountain. Continuing on up the creek, eight miles from the station, we arrive at Oso—At this sidetrack, by looking di- rectly ahead, away up on the top of around flat-topped mountain—called “Dump” Mountain apparently some great for- tress—can be seen a lone tree in the center. Now, notice the loug reddish line encircling that mountain near its top, Do you see it? That is our road, and there, in front of that low tree, we will be in half an hour, looking down at this station. Again we proceed. Look! on your right, away up—there! That peak is Veta Mountain, 11,512 feet above the level of the sea. Up! up we go! Keep your eye | | 88 to the left! See! There is the road—can we ever get up there? We are turning. The gorge narrows and darkens for 2 8-10 miles, and we are at the great Muy SHor—We have run up onone side of the “shoe,” now we will turn to the left and roll around the toe of the shoe, and around on the other side. Now we look down on our left, and the higher we go, the grander the view. Onward—upward. Ah, we have it! Now look away down that little, narrow valley, and see dzttle Ojo station, where we stood unly a few minutes ago, and looked wp— looked at the tree first —then located our present position. Stop a moment and take a look around. The illustration on page 47 shows our train in Abata Canyon, going up to the Mule Shoe from Ojo and then curving around and nearing the summit of “Dump” Mountain. “Oid Veta,’ just to the north, across the chasm, has “come down a peg”’ —is not as high. The Spanish Peaks, now look low—“ be- neath our notice.” Hist! but isn’t the air pure? Before leaving this point, let us take another look around. To the east- ward, Ojo; further, La Veta; a little to the right, the Spanish Peaks; then a sweep around to the left a little, the broad plains, stretching away in the dim haze of the dis- tance; to the north, an awful chasm, 740 feet deep; then Veta Mountain rises up, and bars our vision. To the westward an occasional mountain peak peeps out above the growth of pines inthe foreground, while all around us are pine and sp: uce in the ravines, and away up the mountain to the “timber line, usually about 10,000 feet, above which they stand wncovered, before their Maker—except, possibly, by a mantle of purity—the frost of winter. But we have not had a look to the south, and must climb higher, first. Our course is now to the right, and fol- lows around the mountain to the south— up, around the head of a deep ravine, to the left; up again, we curve around the head of another, and then another—ever upward—but the chasms and ravines are decreasing. Another turn, and we are at the SumMMIt oF VETA Pass—9,339 feet above the level of the sea; 1,097 feet higher than any other railroad track in North America —the second in height in the world. The weight of the engine that hauled our train up this mountain is 34 tons. This station is situated in a grove of CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST timber which obstructs the view, to a great extent; but those who have the time to stop, could take a walk along the sum- mit to the eastward, about one mile, where the best view can be obtained. e The canyon up which our train came, to the turn of the Mule Shoe, is called Abata Canyon, and the old wagon road which we crossed over on a bridge, at the curve, was aoa Abata & Sangre de Christo” toll road. The only building on the Summit is the station, which is built of stone. Leaving the Summit, our train will de- scend on the south for seven miles, on as heavy grade as when climbing up the northern slope. On the route down the mountain to Gar- land, 15 miles, there is little of interest. There are several saw mills, and timber on each side of along ravine, down which our train rolls, passing the following side- tracks; 1 9-10 miles to SANGRE DE CHRISTO; 5 1-10 miles further to Puaczr; 3 9-10 miles more to WAGON CREEK; and 8 5-10 additional to GaRLAND—This station is only an im- portant one while itis the end of the track: when the road is extended Gar- land will evaporate. Now, March ist, 1878, it has a population of 1,500, some good stocks of goods in town, numerous hotels and restaurants, saloons and “va- rieties”—not enough figures. The Pratt is the principal hotel. Stages leave daily for Castilla, 40 miles; Taos, 88 miles; also to Del Norte, 67 miles, fare $10; Lake City, 155 miles, fare $25; Santa Fe, 155 miles,fare $30—fare less on through tickets. An immense amount of freight is shipped on wagons from Gar- land to the mining region to the west and south. We will now return to Denver, and take our seat in the cars on the Denver Pacific Railroad. This road is now owned and operated by the Kansas Pacific Railroad Company. In the fall of 1867, this company was organized at Denver City, Colo- rado, the object of which was to connect the city by rail and telegraph lines with the Union Pacific railroad at Cheyenne. The distance to be overcome was 106 miles, through a coun- try possessing no serious obstacles, and many favorable inducements to the enter- prise. For a part of the way, the country | TOEIIT BLOCET, WHOLESALE DRUGGIST, 229 E. Randolph St., CHICAGO. STR AND MINER'S nis Made a Specialty. MUNSON & CO. Pute Oak Belting MANUFACTURERS. —_TFToBBERS IW _—_— | Rubber Belting, Lace Leather, Belt Hooks, Belt Studs, Etc. Our Productions are not Surpassed in Quality. | SEND FOR PRICES. CE ICA Go, I2,.2f.: «10, 12, 14 and 16, W. Randolph Street. STEAMBOAT ROCK, ECHO ty LACS SS < Co « CANYON, PAH, U P.R.R. (See Annex No. 19.) (6.) &. tH Andrews & Ceo., 211 & 213 WABASH AVE., CHICAGO, LARGEST MANUFACTURERS IN AMERICA OF Jhureh, {}ifice and fibrary Purniture. - { Handiest thing in the world for Lecturers or Sunday School Workers. il a DustLEss ERasErs. Per dozgen....... $1.80. | Best and cheapest made. | | | | eae | TREN ect) | | i | I STRETGHER. BLACKBOArDS. © Extended for Use, Price.. .. .... $1.50 to $5.00. CuurcH Prws, Pulpits, ChairsandSun- | : day-School Seats | \ OFFICE DESKS. of every description. THE “ TRrompPi™ | Dove-tailed to- gether. Received the Highest Award for “pirengta, Du- rability and Good Form,” atthe Cen- ys \ == tennial Exhibition — > 1816. [" We have ; r Ten Patents on ScwouLt DESK. this Desk. Best in the world. | Two Styles, ew egie and Rag? i C: B. Oe Voce ls each, i5c. 20¢e. OS 9. ee woke "RUG. 25c. WA i ene se ft 256. 30c. XI on cox Shien ce OCs 35¢. Large dis | counts from these prices by e€ dezen or rcase. These Slates are un-| FCchildren Witt Be Sires | phave them. ; WooD THES Ere Zs 7 f One hundred varieties of Orrick Dasxs, Lrprany Desks, Tasies and Cras, Marquetry Floors, vneh thick,) the most elaborate and durable ever made. Correspondence solicited from those desiring Artistic and Fine Work in Hard Wood. WV. B. We solicit no orders except for our own make of Goods. We manufacture GuopEs, Maps, BhackBoarps, Liqguip SLATING, (of the very finest quality,) end all Sonoont Apparatus, SETTERS, Erc. [6 Send for “Guide to Church Furnishing.” Address as above for Catalogue in either Department. { a fe a f ces #vented. The AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 89 | along and for some distance on either side of the line is arich farming section, the remainder of the road being through cele- brated grazing lands. The desire to open up this rich region, to connect the city of Denver with the trans-continental railroad, by which to afford a way for cheap and fast freight and rapid transit of passengers, induced the people of Colorado to take hold of the s heme, when proposed, with commendable zeal and alacrity. Sub- scriptions for about one-fourth the amount of money required were made ina few days, and the county bonds of Arapaho county were almost unanimously voted to the amount of $500,000, and work com- menced. The road was completed to Evans early in the fall of 1869, and to Denver the 24th day of June, 1870. During the spring of 1872, this road was sold to the Kansas Pacific Railroad Com- pany, which enables that company to con- trol a through line from Kansas City, Mo., to Cheyenne. Distance, 748 miles, where a junction is made with the Union Pacific railroad. Leaving Denver, our course is north- ward, along down the east bank of the Platte River, for 18 miles, to Hueurs—The country is almost wholly given up to grazing—except on the low bottom land, and at such places where water can be had for irrigating. At Hughes, the Boulder Valley railroad —previously alluded to—branches off to the westward. Jounson—is the next station from Hughes, 14 miles distant, and 16 miles far- ther brings us to Evans—the county seat of Weld coun- This is the headquarters of the St. Louis Western colony and the New Eng- land colony; population. about 900. The Journal, a weekly paper, is published here. Evans is fully provided with churches, schools and most of the modern improve- ments. Soon after leaving Evans we cross the Platte River, and four miles farther come to GREELEY—This town was Jaid out in May, 1870, by the Greeley colony, under the fostering care of the late Hon. Horace Greeley, of the New York Tribune. Thecol- ony control about 100,000 acres of'as fine land as can be found in the Territory. Extensive irrigating ditches have been “taken out,” and water from the Cache a la Poudre River furnishes ample water for all pur- poses. This town has increased rapidly; population nearly 2,000, with ample churches, hotels, schools, etc. The Gree- ley Tribune and the Sun, weeklies, are published here. One noted and glorious feature of the place is the absence of all intoxicating drink. It’s tough on the “old soakers,” who now have to “pack in” their “nips.’ on the sly, or be sick and get a doctor to give a prescription; but it is said that Greeley abounds in doctors and druggists. Leaving Greeley, we cross the valley of the Cache a la Poudre and follow up Lone Tree Creek, 14 miles, to Prprce—situated in the midst of the best grazing lands. From here, it is 20 miles to Cass—This is a mere side track, at the upper crossing of Lone Tree; then ten miles brings us to the SumMMir—a, side-track—on the top of the ridge, ten miles from Cheyenne—which we reach after crossing Crow Creek—a distance from Denver to Cheyenne of 106 miles. With this sketch of Colorado, short and imperfect, because it is impossible to do justice to this country, we take our leave of it, and returning to the Pacific railroad, start once more for the West. Cheyenne—J ust in the border of the city, we cross Crow Creek, on a Howe truss bridge—one of the best on the‘road. We leave the creek and follow up the bed of asmall dry ravine. About two miles from the city—by looking to the right, northward—a fine view can: be had of Fort Davy Russell, previously described. We are now ascending the eastern slope of the southern range, of the Black Hills of Wy- oming, which are stretching away ina long rugged line before us. Hazard—six miles west of Cheyenne, is the first station we reach, and the junc- tion of the Colorado Central railroad. The track turns off at the left of the sta tion, and crosses the prairie and hills to the southward—as described on our route to Colorado. At Hazard, the traveler going East, can obtain a view of Cheyenne and Fort Davy Russell—the former directly ahead, and the latter a little to the left of his train. Otto—is 8 2-10 miles farther west, where passenger trains from the Hast and West usually meet, stop for a few moments, to exchange letters and papers, then pass on 90 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST —one going East for light, the other West for knowledge. We are now 6,724 feet above the sea, and the traveler should note the rapid rise made from this point, in surmounting the Black Hills. Here the heavy grading commences, and snow fences will be nu- merous till we get over the “Hills.” To the north of this place, at the base of the Hills, is a fine valley, where Crow Creek finds its source in many finesprings. The valley contains very superior grazing land, and in conjunction with the adja- cent hills, affords ample game for the hunter. Fifteen miles from this station, to the north, at the eastern entrance of Cheyenne Pass, is the site of old Fort Walbach, now deserted. Near this fort are the head waters of Lodge Pole Creek. Granite Canyon— is five miles west of Otto, and 574 feet higher. At this point are extensive stone quarries, whence was taken the rock for the company’s build- ings in Cheyenne, also for the stone ware- houses. Limestone abounds in this vicin- ity, and many kilns have been erected. To the left of the road, and down the canyon a few hundred yards, is a fine spring, from whence the water is elevated to the tank by the roadside. Half a mile to the south are a number of fine springs, which—with others to the westward—are the head-wa- ters of Lone Tree Creek, a tributary of the South Platte River. Along the road now is heavy rock-work, and on the exposed portions of the road may be seen the snow- sheds and snow-fences, built of plank or stone. Buford—is a small side-track, 6 9-10 miles further. Heavy rock-work, and snow-sheds and fences mark the road. Water for the station is elevated from springs down the ravine, on the southward. The country here presents a wild, rug- ged and grand apearance. The level ground or little valleys are covered with a fine coat of buffalo grass, and now and then clumps of stunted pine appear by the roadside. On either hand, near by, high, bold masses of granite rear their gray sides, piled one on the other, in wild confusion. Up, up, still higher, in the background are the rocky, pine-clad peaks of the Black Hills. The scene is pecu- liarly impressive as we near Sherman, especially if it chances to be one of those days when the clouds float low down the horizon; then the traveler looks over the intervening space between him and the mountain range beyond, and sees naught but floating masses of vapor; no moun- tains, no valley, no forest, only these fleecy shapes, and a long, dark line rising above them, o’ertopped by the glistening sides of Long’s Peak. The altitude gained, we see on the north side of the road,a sign- board—“Summit of the Mountains;’’ then seem to move along a level plain, covered with grass, rocks and shrubs, until we reach Sherman— Hight thousand two hundred and forty-two feet above the level of the sea. It is named in honor of General Sherman, the tallest general in the service. This station is 549 miles from Omaha and 1,365 from San Francisco. Sherman, as a town, is not noted for its size. The trains stop here but a few min- utes: The company’s buildings consist of a comfortable station, a sntall repair shop, and a round-house of five stalls. oe ace OOKOUBs s ciciccccielee ew = 716 9:55 11:25 1:50 6:55 GA oo an cee ewe + conn MIRE. cole nr Lehaeiweheaen BO 9:27 10:35 2:35 7:40 t e2B2Sa ec aeie tie eee ROCK -CrOOK..... 60 toc si <0 6690. 9:60 + 9:40 3:20 8:05 BBD. 655 clewieusewses

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It has a population of 4,000, and is regu- larly laid out, at right angles with the road. A stream of clear, cold water, which rises in aspring a few miles to the eastward, runs through the principal streets; the buildings are small and mestly of wood with a few substantial structures of stone. The spirit of improvement is manifested, on every hand, which has re- cently completed numerous stores, hotels, banks, churches, schools, dwellings, and other buildings, including a court-house and jail. Trees line many of the streets, and present a cheerful and home-like ap- pearance; in fact,most of the Laramie residents are here to stay, and are deter- mined to make it the “Boss” city of the Plains. Laramie was many years after the com- pletion of the road, a regular eating sta- tion for passenger trains from the East and West. ‘The meals were served in the com- pany’s large and commodious hotel—in front of which the cars stop—but cir- cumstances made it necessary to establish the eating house farther to the northward, and it is now at Rock Creek, 51 miles dis- tant. The Sentinel, a daily and weekly paper, is pubiished here. Rotuine Mui—During the year of 1874, the Railroad Company erected a roll- ing mill at this place, at a cost of $127, 500. It is situated to the right of the road a short distance north of the station. The mill is in operation night and day, re-roll- ing old rails and other heavy work. The company’s division shops are also located here. They are of stone obtained from Rock Creek, 50 miles distant to the northward. The round-house contains 20 stalls. The machine shop is used for gen- eral repairing, and contains all the neces- sary machinery of a first-class shop. The railroad was completed to this point June 18th, 1868, and for some months Laramie was known as the “end of the track,” which at that time meant that it was not only the place from which all eae and supplies for the West were hauled on wagons—but it was the center for all the gamblers, roughs and abomina- bse which followed the building of the road. Directly to the east of this place can be seen the Cheyenne Pass wagon road—the old emigrant route—which crosses the plain and river half a mile below the city, running northwest to the base of the | mountains, parallel with the railroad. Woman Jury—Laramie was the first place in America—or in the world even— where a female jury was empaneled. Their first case was that of a Western des- perado, and there was no flinching from duty on the part of the “weaker sex.” Before bringing in their verdict, they in- voked the divine guidance—while their nurses calmed the rising generation by singing, “Nice little baby, don't get in a fury, *Cause mamma’s gone to sit on the jury.” “TRICKS THAT ARE VAIN ’’—Curious passengers will note from this city west the railroad laborers—section hands—are all CHINAMEN; they are said to be very reliable; and, as they don’t drink whisky, the saloons along the line are getting al- most as scarce asthe grasshoppers and mice. The saloon-men are all “anti- Chinese.” Laramig Pirarys—comprise a belt of fine grazing lands about 25 miles wide by 60 long, and is considered one of the best locations for stock-raising in this section of the country. The remarks made about the grazing lands elsewhere will well apply to this sec- tion. Beef can be raised and fattened on these plains at an expense not exceeding the cost of such cattle in Texas, where, as every one knows, they raise themselves and form the larger half of the population. The peculiar feature of these grasses are similar to those already described. The plains are higher, and frost makes its ap- pearance earlier in the fall, but the grass is cured by the summer sun before its ar- rival, so that the cold weather does not in- jure it. We need only to mention the well-known fact that thousands of buffalo roamed over these plains, furnishing the Indians with unlimited quantities of beef, before the white man drove them away, to convince any one that the laudations of this, as a grazing country, are not exagger- ated or wild ideas of enthusiasts, but sim- ple facts, substantiated by past and present experience. Stock-raising is now almost the only in- dustry noticeable, and a great many thou- sand tend of cattle, sheep and horses can be seen in almost any direction. It is computed that there are at this time over 90,000 head of cattle, 85,000 head ot sheep, and 3,000 horses and mules 96 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST within 40 miles of Laramie, valued at $2,250,000. In 1867, there couldn’t be found in the same section 500 head of all kinds—all told. Agriculture is not profit- able, yet they have demonstrated that some of the hardy vegetables can be cultivated with success on the bottom lands. Irems or InrEREst—Crystal Lake is about 40 miles to the westward of Lara- mie. Sheep Mountain—one of the peaks in the Rocky Mountain range—rears its head for 12,000 feet above the sea. Should the tourist desire to visit the place, he will find the road beyond the plains rough, and the ascent toilsome. Before begin- ning the ascent of the mountains we enter one of the grandest forests in the country. For ten miles we toil on through the for- est, which is so dense that the sunlight hardly penetrates, and the silence is almost oppressive. Bears, mountain lions, and the mountain sheep range here; their haunts, until lately, never having been in- vaded by the pale face. Emerging from this gloom into the fair sunlight, we find ourselves on the highest point of the moun- | tain, from which we can look over piles of fleecy clouds floating below us to other ranges far beyond. Peak on peak, ridge on ridge, they ascend, until their snow- clad heights are lost in the distance, or in the vast blue dome above. Looking downward, we behold a vast succession of dark ridges and grey peaks , through the rifts in the fog-like vapor floating above: them. These dark ridges derive their sombre hue from the forests of pine, which extend for miles and miles in all directions. To the east we see a deep indentation in the mountains, which is Laramie Plains. Across this apparently narrow line, the rugged masses of the Black Hills rise in their grandeur, their black crests closing the scene. Turn now to the immediate landscape. Here is a green, grassy lawn, dotted with tiny flowers, of varieties such as we never before beheld, or ever read of, and right before us, in the center of this lawn, lies a circular lake nearly amile wide; its clear, soft, cold water glistening in the rays of the sun, and reflecting, as in a mirror, every object on its banks, transforming them into many fantastic shapes, as the breeze lovingly kisses the silver surface, lifting it into little ripples. The scene is one of unsurpassed loveli- ness immediately around you while the view in the distance is grand, aye, sub- lime—beyond the power of words to de- pict. Whoever visits this place cannot tail of being impressed with its wonderous beauty, and his mind will take newer and clearer impressions of the power of “Him who hath created all things.” Tue Snowy RanceE—the great backbone of the continent—is covered with snow fora great part of the season; the highest peaks ever wearing their white robes, even when the passes are covered with flowers. This renders them very conspicuous and easily discerned at a great distance. Hence the term “Snowy Range.” CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CountTRY—In general descriptions we speak of Laramie Plains as including all the country lying between the western base of the Black Hills and the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains—a grand park, similar in for- mation to the great parks of Colorado, though of much less altitude. These “narks” are immense bodies of table lands, enclosed by the peaks and ridges of the surrounding mountains, sheltered by them from the cold winds, watered by them from the never-failing streams which flow from gorges and canyons among these peaks, from which the snow is never absent. The average elevation of the Lar- amie Plains or park is about 6,500 feet, though where Laramie City stands it is more. The Black Hill ranges of the Rocky Mountains form the eastern and northern boundary of the “Plains.” This range extends nearly due north to Laramie Peak, about 150 miles, thence west, terminating in the Seminole Mountains. On the south, the park or plain is bordered by the Rocky Mountains, which here reach an elevation of from 10,000 to 18,000 feet above the sea —snow-capped always. To the altitude of from 8,000 to 9,000 feet, these slopes are covered with dense pine forests. In the mountains to the westward, in North Park, Douglass, and other creeks, rich mines of gold, silver, copper, and nearly all the known metals have been dis- covered, and in several cases, worked to ad- vantage. The Keystone is reported to bea very rich mine, the owners of which are taking out the ore and piling it up, to await the arrival of a stamp mill which will be put up in a few months. Undoubtedly there are vast regions tributary to Laramie equally well-stored with mineral deposits, that have never been prospected or visited by the white men. On the northwest from out the Elk i la tt aaa atoll Scan Sciacca ar eeaiaenaac | AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. o7 | Mountains, juts the Rattlesnake Range, ex- tending north to the North Platte, carrying an elevation of nearly 8,000 feet. Through the western range, the North Platte canyons, and. on the east, the Medi- cine Bow River cuts through the eastern | range, separating it from the foot-hills of the northerly range of the Black Hills. Through the plains flow the Big and Little Laramie Rivers, which, as we before stated, rise in the mountains which border the western rim of the plains. These streams canyon through the Black Hills north of Laramie Peak, and enter the North Platte | near Fort Laramie. Rock Creek rises east of Medicine Bow, and after flowing north to about latitude 42 degs. flows west and empties into the Medicine Bow. This river rises in Medi- cine Bow Mountains, and flows north to about the same latitude as Rock Creek, thence west, and canyons through the Rat- tlesnake range of hills, entering the North Platte about 150 miles northwest of Lara- mie City, in latitude 42 deg. 3 min. By this showing it will be observed that the immense park, or Laramie Plains, is well watered—sufficienjly for grazing and irrigation. We have been more explicit, have dwelt longer on these points than we should have done, did we not feel a desire to show to the emigrant, or to those who are seeking good locations for grazing lands, that the Laramie Plains possess these advantages in an eminent degree. We have wandered far away from the plains in our descriptions, but the grazing lands end not with the plains. The moun- tain sides, until the timber belt is reached, the valleys, bluffs, and foot-hills, all pre- sent the same feature in point of luxuriant crops of grass. The valleys of the streams mentioned also contain thousands of acres of meadow land, where hay can be cut in abundance, and, if the season will permit, wheat, barley and rye might be grown to advantage, the soil being a black loam, and sufficiently moist to insure good crops without irrigation. Fish anp GamME—Trout—the finest in the world—can be found in every moun- tain stream, while every variety of game ranges over the mountains, hills’ valleys and plains in countless numbers. With these general remarks, we will re- turn to Laramie, and proceed on our jour- ney. Soon after leaving the city, we cross the Laramie River, and eight miles brings us to Howell’s—an Sen station, where passenger trains seldom stop. It is then 7 6-10 miles to Wyoming—on the Little Laramie River. During the building of the road large quantities of ties were received at this point, which were cut at the head of the river and floated down the stream in high water. The country is a broad prai- rie. At the station we crossed Little Lara— mie, a small stream which rises in the mountains to the westward and empties into Laramie River. The same might be said of Whiskey Creek, a small stream which is crossed next. To the next station itis 8 7-10 miles. Cooper Lake—Near the station, to the westward, lies a beautiful sheet of wa- ter, about two miles long by half-a-mile wide, called Cooper's Lake. Lookout—a station with an altitude of 7,169 feet—is 8 7-10 miles from Cooper Lake. We are now entering the rolling prairie country, where, for 25 miles either way along the road, vast herds of elk, deer and antelope are found at different seasons of the year—the elk being mostly found in the winter, when the snow drives them from the mountains. We also begin to find occasional bunches of sage-brush, which tell us that we have entered the country where this more useful than orna- mental shrub abounds. Occasionally we pass through cuts and over low fills, by snow-fences, and through snow-sheds, the country growing rougher as we pass along 8 3-10 miles to Miser Station—Sage-brush is the rule. Just before reaching the station, we pass through a very deep cut—one of the deepest on the road—where a little spur of the bluffs rises abruptly from the plains, right in the way of the road. Just before reaching the next station, we cross Rock Creek, towards the head of which is good trout fishing. It is 9 7-10 miles to Rock Creek—a small station, situ- ated on asmall creek of the same name. [See description of Rock Creek on preceed- ing pages.| This is a regular eating sta- tion; trains from the East stop for supper, from the West for breakfast—30 minutes are allowed. The company have erected a very commodious house here, on the right hand side of the track, and those who fur- nish meals to the passengers have reached avery high point of excellence in the art, | and appear attentive to the wants of their guests. The dining room is very tastefully 98 decorated, and everything looks clean and cheerful—one that we are pleased to recom- mend—and hope we will always be war- ranted in doing so. Leaving the station, our course now lies to the eastward; the train winds around the spurs of the bluffs, which seem to bar our way by interlocking with each other, on through a rough, rolling country, again turning to the westward, over bridges and fills, through cuts and snow-sheds, for 7 7-10 miles to WV ileox—an unimportant station, and we continue crossing creeks and ravines for 7 9-10 miles more, of difficult engineer- ing and middling heavy road-work, and arrive at Como — another unimportant little place. Soon after passing the station we come to Como Lake, a beautiful little sheet of water, lying to the right of the road. Itis about one mile long and half a-mile wide, and contains a peculiar fish, a “fish with legs.” possess gills something like a cat-fish; are amphibious, being often found crawling clumsily around on land, miles from the lake. Quite a variety of peculiar fossil shells are found around the lake that are gathered in summer by persons who offer them for sale to the tourists. Merpictnz Bow River—is crossed a few miles after leaving Como. It rises in the Medicine Bow Mountains, as before stated, and empties its waters into the North Platte River. This river was long a noted resort for Indians, and several treaties have been made on its banks between the “noble red men” and their pale-faced “ brothers.” The valley of the river, above the railroad, for thirty miles or more, is broad, fine bot- tom-land, until it reaches the base of the mountain. From thence to its source the course of the river is through immense forests of pine, which present unrivaled facilities for lumbering. Fish are found in great quantities in the stream, and the various kinds of game which abound in this country are found in the mountains where the river has its source. Soon after crossing the river, and 71-10 miles from Como, we come to Medicine Bow—containing several stores, and saloons, freight house, passen- ger station, and a five-stall round-house. Leaving this station, the road is laid over a smooth, level plain, for about five miles, when it enters a rough, hilly, sage- These fish-animals | CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST brush country. The train winding around through deep cuts and long snow-sheds, | for 4 2-10 miles further, stops at Carbom—Here was discovered the first coal on the Union Pacific R.R. Two banks or coal veins have been opened, the veins averaging aboutten feet. This coal is used principally by the Railroad Com- pany, for their locomotives—the quality not being so good for domestic purposes as that mined further to the west, at Rock Springs and Evanston. During the year 1877, these mines produced 80,000 tons. The coal is raised from the mine and dumped into the flat-cars, while standing on the track—the shaft of the mine being between the main and side track, close to the station; a stationary engine furnish- ing the hoisting power. Another shaft is to the south of the town, a short distance, reached by a railtrack. Carbon contains a population of about 800, and is the county seat of Carbon coun- ty, which contains a population of about 2,000—most of whom are engaged in stock- raising. Sim pson—a small, unimportant side- track, is reached seven miles from Carbon, after passing through a succession of cuts, many of which are covered with snow- sheds. Passenger cars do not stop. The road now curves around, and runs almost due west for 50 miles. To the next sta- tion it is 4 6-10 miles. Perecy—tThe station was named for Perc . Brown, an engineer who was killed by the Indians, while employed sur- ag the line. uring the construction of the road, this was an important station. Ties, tele- graph poles, wood and bridge timber, were landed at this point in immense quantities. They were obtained at Elk Mountain, seven miles to the south, The old stage road winds around the base of the moun- tain, between that and the railroad. Near the foot of the mountain, old Fort Halleck and one of the most important stations of the Overland Stage Company, were located ; both are now abandoned. ELvx Mounrarn—is a noted, landmark, and quite a curiosity in its way. It rises to a greatheight, its top being covered with snow a great portion of the year, and at any time snow can be found in places on the summit. It has the appear- ance of being an isolated peak, though, really, it is the extreme northern spur of the Medicine Bow Mountains. Itis, how- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 99 SEALS AND SEA LIONS AT FARALLONES ISLANDS, BELOW SAN FRANCISCO. ever, surrounded by TONE prairie land, and seems to rise boldly from it, rough, rugged and alone. On the west side, the summit is easily reached by a good road, made by the lumbermen. The mountain is nearly round, about six miles in diame- ter at its base. Its sides are covered with dense forests of pine, aspen and hemlock. It is worthy of note, that this is the only point where the latter species of timber is found along the line of theroad. It grows in profusion with the spruce in the gorges, near the summit. To the south is a fine valley, about 15 miles wide and 20 mileslong. Pass Creek, which rises in the Medicine Bow Moun- tains, runs through this valley on its way to the North Platte River. Large quantities of hay are cut in the bottom lands along the creek. This stream, like all others which rise in this range, is full of fine trout and other fish. Antelope abound on the plain, with elk, deer, bears and mountain sheep, while mountain lions find their homes in the dark ravines and gloomy gorges of the mountain. Dana—is an unimportant station 6 1-10 miles west of Percy. From Percy to the North Platte River, 29 miles, the road is built down the valley of an alkali ravine. Sage-brush and stagnant pools of alkali water are the only objects that greet the eye—an unpleasant greeting, it must be confessed. St. Mary’s—is 7 5-10 miles from Dana. Soon after leaving the station, our 100 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST train enters the ravine, where the bluffs as- sume more formidable features; in fact, the ravine becomes a gorge, the rugged spurs shooting out as though they would reach the opposite wall, and bar out farther progress. ‘The first one of these spurs does indeed bar our way, or did until a tunnel was completed. Before this tunnel was finished, the company laid the road around the point of the spur on a temporary track. Emerging from the tunnel, the train rushes down the gorge, the wall now rising close, abrupt and high, on either hand,.and 17 8-10 miles from St. Mary’s we arrive at and pass W olecot’s—an unimportant station. Down, down we go—the rough spurs point out from either wall of the canyon, an indenture in one bank marking a pro- jection on the other. While looking on this scene, one cannot help fancying that one time this chasm was not; that some fearful convulsion of nature rent the mighty rocks in twain, leaving these rag- ed walls and fetid pools to attest the fact. uddenly we whirl out of the mouth of this chasm—out on the level lands of the North Platte River—cross a substantial wooden bridge, and stop at Fort Fred, Steele—5 810 miles west of Wolcot’s; elevation, 6,840 feet. This fort was established June 30th, 1868, by four companies of the 30th In- fantry, under command of Brevet Col. R. I. Dodge, Major 30th Infantry. When the posts in the Powder River country were abandoned, the great bulk of the military stores were hauled to this place and stored for future use. About two miles west of Fort Steele formerly stood Benron Crry—now entirely abandoned. The road was completed to this point the last. of July, 1868. At that time a large amount of freight for Montana, Idaho, Utah, and the western country was re- shipped in wagons at this point, and dur- ing August and September the place pre- sented a lively aspect, which continued until the road was finished to Bryan, the first of October. Benton at that time was composed of canvas tents; about 3,000 peo- ple of all kinds made the population; a harder set it would be impossible to find— | roughs, thieves, petty gamblers (the same thing), fast women, and the usual accom- paniments of the railroad towns, flourished here in profusion. There were high old times in Benton then, but as the road | stretched away to the westward, the people “packed up their tents and stole noiselessly away,” leaving only a few old chimneys and post-holes to mark the spot of the once flourishing town. Whiskey was the prin- cipal drink of the citizens, it being the most convenient, as all the water used had to be hauled from the Platte River, two miles distant, at an expense of one dollar per barrel, or ten cents per bucket-full. At Benton, the bluffs which mark the entrance to the canyon of the Platte near Fort Steele, are plainly visible and will continue in sight until we near Rawlins. They are of gray sandstone, worn, marked by the waters or by the elements, far up their perpendicular sides. They are on the opposite side of the river, the banks on the west side being comparatively low. At this point the river makes a bend, and for several miles we seem to be running down the river, parallel with it, though really drawing away from the stream. To the south is a long, high ridge of grey granite, called the “Hog Back.” It is about four miles.away from the road, and runs parallel with it for about 15 miles, terminating in the highlands of Rawlins Springs. It is very narrow at the base, not exceeding half-a-mile in width, eg it rises from 1,000 to 3,000 feet high. he ridge is so sharp that cattle cannot be driven across it,and in many places it is | all but impracticable for a man to,attempt to walk along its summit. Where this ridge reaches the river bank, about two and a half miles above the bridge, the walls are perpendicular and very high, from 1,000 to 1,500 feet. A corresponding bluff on the opposite side shows that the river has cut a channel through this ridge, which at one time barred the progress of the waters. On the south side of the ridge is a very pretty little valley, through which flows a small creek into the Platte. It furnishes fine grazing, and is in marked contrast to the surrounding country. Many years ago this green and peaceful looking vale was the scene of a fearful bat- tle between the Sioux and their inveterate enemies, the Utes. The Sioux were encamped in the valley, and were surprised by the Utes, who stole on them in the grey light. of the morning, and attacked them furi- ously. Though taken by surprise, the Sioux fought bravely, but were surrounded and overpowered. When trying to escape, they essayed to cross the “Hog Back,” but every one who raised his head above _ Ee AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 101 the crest V was 8 picked off instantly. oY por- tion of the band escaped in another direc- tion, leaving their dead comrades on the field. The Sioux were so badly whipped that from that time forward they have had little use for the Utes. Norte Puarre Rrver—We gave a short description of this river from where we first crossed it, near North Platte City, to Fort Steele, so we will now trace it from this station to its source. them } rises a clear, sparkling spring of ice-cold water, and we opine that the time is not far distant when these springs will be taken up, a narrow gauge rairoad laid down, hotels built, and one of the finest “ watering places » in the world opened to the public. Fish of many kinds, and beavers, are abundant in the streams; the beavers erecting dams often six feet high. The mountains and forests are full of game, and From Fort Steele to the head waters of| in them and the open valleys can be found the Platte is about 150 to 200 miles. It rises in the mountains of the North Park, its waters being supplied by many tributa- ries, which, at present, are mostly nameless. The course of the river, from its source to this point, is nearly due north. About twenty-five miles above the fort, is the Platte Ferry, on the old overland stage road. Good bottom lands are found along the stream at intervals. About 100 miles fur- ther up, the tributaries of the river begin to empty their waters into the main stream, and the timber land commences. Douglas Creek and French Creek are tributaries of the Platte, and run through Gold mines and heavy eg ai valleys. elk, deer, antelope, bears, mountain sheep and lions, and, occasionally, the bison. or mountain buffalo. The forests are dense and large in extent; from which, during the building of the road, large quantities of ties were cut and floated down the river to Fort Steele. The valleys are fertile and large, and all in all, it is a grand, wild country, where the tour- ist could enjoy life to his heart’s content, in hunting, fishing, and fighting the Indians. Grennville—is “a small side-track station 8 4-10 miles west of Fort Steele, and it is seven miles further to Rawlins—(usually called Rawling Springs). This place contains a population of about 800. The Railroad Company a iggings were iscovered here, but not prospected to any grea extent. On the west side of the river, Monument and Big creeks empty their waters into the Platte, nearly opposite the creeks first named. Big Creek rises in a beautiful lake, about three miles long by half a mile wide. A half. mile above this lies another lake, but little smaller. This ground is disputed territory be- tween the Sioux and Utes, rendering it very unsafe for small parties. Eight miles from Douglas Creek coal is found in abundance, and farther on, fine- looking quartz veins crop out on the hillside. Near here are sulphur springs, seven in num- ber, and very hot; while, along side of rete 102 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST have built here a fine hotel, a round-house of 20 stalls, and machine-shops for division repairs. The Railroad Company employ 130 men. , The surrounding country is rough and broken, covered with sage-brush and flecked with alkali. Close above the town a fine sulphur spring rises from under the bed of blue limestone, and other springs arise from the surface of a narrow, wet ravine, which extends about a mile above the town. The bed of the ravine, as far as the water extends, is white with alkali, where the pools of stagnant water do not cover it. From 30 to 40 miles to the northeast of this station, are located the Ferris and | Seminole mining districts. The ore is sil- ver, and said by some people to be very rich. Several mills are in operation, and others will soon be erected. Coal, wood and water is abundant near the mines, and prospects are bright for the future of the district. Rawlins is the county seat of Carbon j county, and was named in honor of Gen’l J. A. Rawlins. The principal business in which the citizens are engaged is stock raising and mining. Two miles north of the station a paint mine has been discovered, which prospects now to be very valuable. It issaid to be fire-and-water proof. Two mills have been erected at the station for grinding the paint, with a daily capacity of three and ten tons respectively. The Union Pacific Railroad Company are using it to paint their cars. Leaving Rawlins, we follow up the nar- row ravine spoken of, through a natural pass about 800 feet wide, which leads be- tween two nearly perpendicular bluffs over 200 feet in height, composed of yellowish gray quartzose sandstone, overlaid with carboniferous limestone. This bluff ap- pears to have extended across the ravine sometime in the past. Perhaps a large lake was imprisoned above, which kindly burst these huge walls, and left a natural route for the railroad. Beyond the pass we follow up this dry lake bed 6 7-10 miles through a sage-brush and alkali country to Sommit—a small station where the passenger trains do not stop, and 67-10 miles further arrive at Separation—This station derives its name from the fact that at this place the various parties of surveyors who had been together or near each other for the last hundred miles, separated to run different lines to the westward; elevation, 6,900 feet. We are rapidly rising, and 15 miles fur- ther will be on the summit of the Rocky Mountains. Artesian wells are quite numerous alon the line, most of them having been finished within the past five years. They are from 326 feet to 1,145 feet in depth, flowing from 400 to 1,000 gallons an hour, in one place 26 feet above the surface. By pumping, these wells will supply from 650 to: 2,400 gallons of water per hour. The one at this station is 1,103 feet deep, in which the water stands 10 feet from the surface, and by pumping yields 2,000 gallons per hour. Fillmore—is another station where the cars do not stop. It is 7 5-10 miles west from Separation, and seven miles from Creston—Sage-brush and alkali beds are the rule now, and have been for the last 25 miles, and will be for the next 100 miles. We are now near the summit of the great “back-bone ” of the continent— the Rocky Mountains—just 7,030 feet above the level of the sea. Two and a half miles west of this point a large sign-board has been erected, bearing the following: “CONTINENTAL DIVIDE,” and marks the summit 7,100 feet above the level of the sea. This point is about 185 miles from Sherman, ‘737 from Omaha, and from San Francisco, 1,177. On this wild spot, surrounded by few evidences of vegetation—and those of the most primitive form—this little sign marks the center of the grandest range of moun- tains on the continent. Amid what seems to have been the wreck of mountains, we stand and gaze away in the vast distance at the receding lines of hill, valley and mountain peaks, which we have passed in our journey. We feel the cool mountain breeze on our cheeks, but it brings no aroma of life and vegetation with its cooling cur- rent. We feel and know that the same sky which hangs so warm and blue over the smiling valleys, looks down upon us now—but how changed the aspect; thin, gray and cold it appears, and so clear that we almost expect to see the stars looking down through the glistening sunbeams. We do not seem to be on the mountain height, for the expanse seems but a once level plain, now arched and broken into ugly, repulsive hollows and desolate knobs. Here, if a spring should rise from this AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. ao . peony maf a ray PsP e ie an (One nas Foundation of Temple. Tabernacle, VIEW OF SALT LAKE CITY, LOOKING SOUTHWEST. sage-brush knoll, its waters would divide, and the different portions eventually min- gle with the two oceans which wash the opposite sides of the continent. We enter the cars and pass on, the track seeming to be lost but a short distance in our front. The view from the rear of the car is the same. The track seems to be warped up and doubled out of sight. The curvature of this backbone gives the track a similar appearance to that witnessed at Sherman. Although much higher at Sherman, still To be ‘dead broke,” or out of money, is ‘‘ inthe cap,” ‘on the bed rock,” etc. this is the continental divide, but the low, broad pass brings us 1,212 feet below that place. To the north, the Seminole moun- tains rear their rugged heights, and farther on, and more to the westward, can be seen the long lines and gray peaks of the Sweetwater Range. Still farther to the west and north, the Wind River Moun- tains close the scene in the dim distance, their summits robed in snow. Away to the south can be seen the hills which form the southern boundary of the pass, near “ Shooting his month off, for one to use de- fiant or foul Janguage. : breeze to fall 104 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST by where. the Bridger. Pass Station is situ- ated on the old overland stage road. With a last look at this rugged, barren, desolate region, we speed away over the crest, and shall have down grade for the next 108 miles, descending in that distance 1,110 feet. Latham— is reached 71g miles west, but our train does not stop; and 7 6-10 miles more brings to Wash-a-kie—named after an old chief of the Shoshone Indians, whose por- trait will be found on page 61. At this place is another artesian well, 638 feet deep, which, at 15 feet above the sur- face, flows 800 gallons of pure water per hour. Red Desert—is 93-10 miles from Wash-a-kie. The country around here is called the Red Desert, from the color of the barren soil. Itis a huge basin, its waters having no outlet. Several alkali lakes are found in it, but nothing lives on its surface. The soil is bad between Table Rock and Creston, the extreme points of the desert, 388 miles apart. Itis composed of the de- composition of shale and calcareous clays, and is deep red, showing the presence of an hydrous sesquioxide of iron. The _|. southern margin of the basin is mainly sand, which is lifted up by every passing in drifts and shifting - mounds. _ Wiptom—a side-track, where our train does not stop, is 6 6-10 miles west of Red Desert, and 6 7-10 miles further, the train wul.stop at Table Rock—This station is on the outer edge of the desert, which has an ele- vation of 6,890 feet. Off to the left can be seen a long line of bluffs, rising from 50 to 500 feet above the surrounding coun- try. They are of red sandstone, which is mainly composed of freshwater shells, worn, cut, and fluted by the action of the elements. One of these bluffs, which gives its name to the station, is level on the top, which rises about 500 feet above the road, and extends for several miles. Heavy cuts and fills are found here, show- ing that the road is passing through the rim of the desert. After passing through this rim, and by the side-track, called Agate—we go on, through a rough and broken country for ten miles, when we arrive at astation called Bitter Creek—aAt this place the company have a ten-stall round-house, and a machine shop, for repairs. As we leave this station, we begin the descent of the celebrated Bitter Creek, the valley of which we shall follow to Green River, about 60 miles west. The valley is narrow, the bluffs coming near the creek on either side. The stream is small and so strongly impregnated with alkali as to be almost useless for man or beast. The banks and bottoms are very treacherous in places, miring any cattle which attempt to reach its fetid waters. This section was always a terror to travel- ers, emigrants and freighters, for nothing in the line of vegetation will grow, ex- cepting grease-wood and sage-brush. The freighter, especially, who had safely navi- gated this section, would “ring his pop- per’? and claim that he was a “tough cuss on wheels, from Bitter Creek with a per- fect education.” ‘From the source to the mouth of this stream, every indication points to the fact that deposits of oil underlie the surface. Coal veins—-valuable ones—-have been found, and an oil-bearing shale underlies a large portion of the valley. The old over- land stage and emigrant road follows this valley from its source to Green River. From the bluffs, spurs reach out as though they would like to meet their jagged friends on the opposite bluffs; and around the rough points the cars roll merrily on down, down to the Green. Black Buttes—is 9 1-10 miles down the creek. Haliville—an unimportant station to the tourist, is 54g miles from the Buttes, and 5 8-10 miles to Point of Rocks—Here an artesian well, 1,015 feet in depth, supplies an abun- dance of pure water. Extensive coal mines near this station are being worked by the Wyoming Coal Company, who ship as high as 100 car- loads daily. In one bluff, at a depth of 80 feet, five veins of coal have been opened— one upon the other—which are respectively one, three, four, five, and six and a half feet in thickness. On the bluff, just above the coal, is a seam of oyster-shells six inches in thickness, which Hayden says “is an ex- tinct and undescribed species, about the size of our common edible one.” The sandstone bluffs, at points along the road, are worn by the action of the elements into curious, fantastic shapes, some of which have been named “Caves of the Sand,” “ Hermit’s Grotto,” “ Water-washed Caves of the Fairies,’ “Sanko’s Bower,” THE VALLEY OF TH AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 105 &c. Prof. Hayden, in his geological ex- amination of this section of the creek, re- ported finding “preserved in the rocks the greatest abundance of deciduous leaves of the poplar, ash, elm and maple.” He says further: “Among the plants found is a specimen of fan-palm, which, at the time it i here, displayed a leaf of enormous imensions, sometimes having a spread of ten or twelve feet. These gigantic palms seem to have formed a conspicuous feature among the trees of these ancient forests.’ Several sulphur and iron springs are lo- cated near, but little attention has been di- rected to their special virtues. Whayer—a small side-track, 5 3-10 miles further west, is passed without stop- ping, and 6 2-10 miles more we arrive at Salt Wells—This, until coal was dis- covered in quantities on the creek, was a wood station. The wood was obtained from five to ten miles south, in the gulches, where also could be found game in abund- ance—elk, deer, bears, etc. STARVATION CAMP, DONNER LAKE—SEE ANNEX NO, 33. Baxter—is cight miles from the Wells and 5 4-10 from Reck Springs—This station was named aiter a saline spring of water which boils up out of the blutts, looking very clear and nice, but it is very deceiving—an un- common thing in this truthful world. An artesian well has been sunk at this station, 1,145 feet deep. The water flows to the surface at the rate of 960 gallons per hour, and at 26 feet above the surface, flows 571 gallons per hour. The popu- lation of this place is 500, mostly engaged in mining and stock raising. Near here are more rich coal mines. From this point to Green River, the scenery becomes more grand and im- pressive, the bluffs rising higher and the gorge narrowing, until the hills seem to hang over the narrow valley with their frowning battlements. Through this gorge we rattle on nine miles to Lawrence—a small station six miles from the end Laramie Division. a aa 106 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST woes PA es Te. WESTERN DIVISION, GREEN RIVER TO OGDEN. A. A. Eeperr, Division Superintendent. WEST FROM OMAHA. LARAMIE TIME. BAST FROM CALIFORNIA. Daily : Daily |Distance : Daily Bx : + Daily : press, | from ' Elevation| Express, . Emigrant. |13¢ ¢2d Cl’s|Omaha. STATIONS 1st & 2d Cl’s| PMigrant. 12:20 + am) 7:45 + pm]... .84../Lv....*Q@REEN RIVER...... 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The place is a regular eating station, where passenger trains stop 80 minutes— those from the East for breakfast, those from the West tor supper. Much taste is displayed at this station in decorating the dining room and office with mountain cu- riosities, mineral specimens, moss agate and horns of game. The city has a good court-house—costing $35,000; several dry goods, grocery, cloth- ing and other stores; two hotels, and about 400 population; also, a daily newspaper, the Hoening Press. The Railroad Com- pany has a round-house of 15 stalls, and machine shops and repair shops, located here, that, in the early years of the road, were at Bryan. It is claimed that the surrounding coun- try isrich in mines, but one thing is cer- tain—it is rich in cattle; it has cattle on more than a “thousand hills.” The bluffs near this station present a peculiar formation called, by Prof. Hay- den, the “Green River Shales.” For a beautiful illustration of the bluffs, the sta- tion and the bridge, see ANNEX No. 16. The walls of these bluffs rise perpendic- ularly for hundreds of feet, are of a grayish buff color, and are composed of layers, ap- parently sedimentary deposits of all thick- nesses, from that of a knife-blade to two feet. At the base of the bluff the layers are thin and composed of arenaceous clay, with laminated sandstone, mud markings and other indications of shallow water or mud flats; color for 100 feet, ashen brown; next above are lighter colored layers, al- ternate with greenish layers, and fine AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. CROSSING TRUCKEE RIVER, C. P. R. white sand. Passing up, clay and lime predominate, then come layers of bould- ers, pebbles, and small nodules. There are also seams of very fine black limestone, saturated with petroleum. Near the summit, under the shallow, calcareous sandstone, there are over fifty feet of shales that contain more or less it oily material. The hills all around are capped with a deep, rusty yellow sandstone, which pre- sents the peculiar castellated forms which, | With the banded appearance, have given so much celebrity to the scenery about this station. : The point where our photographer stood to take the picture, was about one- half mile below the bridge and immedi- ately opposite the mouth of the noted Bitter Creek, down which, in years past, rolled the wagons of the pioneer-emigrants of the far West, on their weary way seeking new El] Dorasoes towards the set- ting sun. Otp Town—A short distance from the station to the southward is the site of the old deserted city of Green River, near the old emigrant crossing, and thereby hangs atale. This city was laid out in July, 1868, and the September following con- tained 2,000 inhabitants, and many sub- stantial wood and adobe buildings, and presented a permanent appearance. At that time it was thought by the citizens that the Railroad Company would certainly erect their division buildings near the town, and it would become an important station in consequence. But the Railroad Com- pany opposed the Town Company, bridged the river, and as the road stretched away to the westward, the town declined as rap- idly as it arose, the people moving on to Bryan, at which place the Railroad Com- pany located thecr city—and sold lots. Geographical indications from the first pointed to the fact that the Railroad Com- pany must eventually select this place in 108 preference to Bryan, which is now an ac- complished fact. TwENTy YEARS AGo an important trading post was located near this station just below, on the opposite side of the river. In early days, the Mormons hada ferry here, and a; the river was seldom _ fordable—except late in the fall—they reaped a rich harvest of from $5 to $20a team for crossing them over the river, ac- cording. as the owners were found able to pay. Those times were comparatively only yesterday, and we might say with the juggler “ Presto !” and we have the “ iron horse,” and the long trains of magnificent palace cars, crossing the substantial rail- road bridge, conveying their hundreds of passengers daily—passengers from every land and clime—and whirling them across the continent from ocean to ocean, on schedule time. Do these passengers, while partaking of a princely meal, lying at ease sipping their wine, (or possibly ice water,) and smoking quietly their cigar, ever think of the hardy pioneers who toiled along on foot and alone, many times over seven months traveling the same distance that can now be made in five days? These pioneers suffered every kind of hardship, many even unto death, and those that re- main are fast passing away. Yet, the fruits of their adventurous and daring in- trepidity can be seen on every hand. GREEN RrvER—This stream rises in the northwest portion of the Wind River Mountains, at the base of Fremont’s. Peak. The source of the river is found in innu- merable little streams, about 200 miles from the railroad crossing. About 150 miles below the station the river empties into the Colorado River. The name “Green River’? implies the color of the water, but one would hardly expect to be- hold a large, rapid river, whose waters possess sodeepahue. The river, for some distance up the stream, commencing about fifty miles above the station, runs through a soil composed of decomposed rock, slate, etc., which is very green, and easily washed and worn away, which accounts for the color of the water. At all seasons of the year the water is very good—the best, by far, of any found in this part of the country. The tributaries abound in trout’ of fine flavor, and the main river is well stocked with the finny tribe. Game of all kinds abound along the river and in the adjacent mountains. Fontenelle Creek comes into Green River CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 40 miles north, and is specially noted for game, trout, etc. The lower stream presents avery marked feature, aside from the high bluffs of worn sandstone besides sedimentary deposits. These features are strongly marked, above the bridge, for several miles. From Green River station, the first ex- ploring expedition of Maj. Powell started on the 24th of May, 1869. The party con- sisted of about a dozen well-armed, intrepid men, mostly Western hunters. They had four well-built boats, with which to explore the mysterious and terrible canyons of Green River and the Colorado. These gorges were comparatively unknown, the abrupt mountain walls having turned the travel far from their sterile shores. Sci- ence and commerce demanded a solution of the question: “Can the upper Colorado be navigated?” and Maj. Powell under- took to solve the problem. The party encountered hardships, dis- covered beautiful scenery, and in their re- port have thrown much light on the mys- teries of this heretofore not much traveled country. The result of the expedition af- forded the Major the materials for a course of lectures, and demonstrated the impor- tant fact that the Colorado canyon 7s not navigable. We hear that the Major has, since the above, made an expedition to the river, but are not informed as to the results. A wagon road leads north, up the east side of the river, over which a stage runs regularly to the WEETWATER CountRy—The principal cities are South Pass, Atlantic and Hamil- ton. They are situated four miles apart. The principal occupation of the citizens is quartz et mining. Many of the mines are said to be very rich, but for some rea- son very unprofitable to work. The prin- cipal mines are on Sweetwater River, a trib- utary of Wind River, which passes through very rich mineral and agricultural coun- try. Wind River is a tributary of the Big Horn River, which empties into the Yel- lowstone. The streams abound in fish, in- cluding trout of excellent flavor. The valleys and mountains furnish game in abundance, including deer, elk, antelope, mountain sheep, buffalo, cinnamon, brown, black and grizzly bears. Indian difficulties have retarded min- ing, agricultural, and business operations very much in the past. Leaving the station, we cross Green River on a fine bridge, the cars passing along through heavy cuts, almost over the river in places, affording a fine view of the frown- ing cliffs on the east side of the river. Twenty miles to the northwest a large bar- ren butte, pilot-knob, stands in _ isolated loneliness. Soon we turn to the left, leav- ing the river, and pass along a dreary barren waste for 13.4 miles, and arrive at Bryan—a desert- ed old station. The country around is bar- ren, composed of red sand, and uninviting in the extreme. We are again increasing our elevation. The road was completed to Bryan, Septem- ber, 1868, and large amounts of freight was delivered here to be reshipped to the westward. From this station to the north- ward, it is 80 miles to the Pacific Springs on the old “ California trail,’ and 90 miles to Sweetwater. At one time stages left this station for the Sweetwater country, but they have been transferred to Green River station. Freight for the Government posts, and country to the northward, Atlan- tic City, South Pass, &c., is hauled from this station by wagon teams as of old. Bryan, during its early days, was quite lively, and troubled with the usual number AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 109 WEW DOOVITG MAP oF | COMPILED FROM U.S.GOV? SURVYETS, Smowiwe TH MEAcT? LOCATION 0F THe RICHEST EmoaD RSE BMSIVE MINING DISTRICTS ON THD CONTINENT, SETSSDOING 150 MLSs PORTH S sOUTH. PI 72 ees a> eS . “e LPs y iy = : : Resa LA a Virtue and honor are very nice for Sunday wear, but too rare for every- ay use. le ioc lg ebb 110 CROFUTI’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST of roughs, gamblers and desperadoes. When the Vigilance Committee was in session here, in 1868, they waited on a noted desperado, and gave him 15 minutes to leave town. He mounted his mule and said: “Gentlemen, if this d—m mule don’t buck, I don’t want but five.’ We com- mendhis judgment, and consider that for once “fis head was level.” Buacx’s ForxK is approached at this station. It rises in the Uintah Mountains, about 100 miles to the southwest, and emp- ties into Green River, below Green River City. The bottom lands of this river, for fifty miles above Bryan, are susceptible of irrigation, and are thought to be capable of raising small grains. Warston—is an unimportant station, 7.6 miles from Bryan. Soon after passing the station, to the northward, the old Mor- mon trail from Johnson’s Ford on Green River, 12 miles above Green River station, can be seen coming down aravine. The route is marked for some distance by a line of telegraph poles which leads to Sweetwater. Soon after leaving this station, a fine view can be had to the left, south of the Uintah range of mountains. The valley of the Beaver lays atthe northern base of the range, and is one of the most produc- tive sections or the territory ; corn, potatoes, vegetables, and small grain grow and yield abundantly. Beaver Creek, which flows through the valley, was named for the beavers that inhabit the creek. As early as 1825, Beaver Creek was known to dee and other trappers of the American Fur Co; in after years, it became the headquarters—for years at a time—of Jim Bridger and other trappers. Since trapping beaver has been aban- doned the increase in Beaver Creek has been wonderful. - Immense dams are here to be seen, from fou> to six feet high, which flood many thousand acres. _ The streams of this section not only abound in beaver, but in fish—the trout here being abundant. Beyond the Uintah Range is the Great Valley of White Earth River, where is lo- cated the Ute Reservation. Gran ere 9.6 miles west of Marston. ‘he last seven and a half miles of track before reaching this station was laid down by Jack Caseman in one day. The station is named for an old set- tler, Mr. Granger, who keeps a ranche near by. Just after leaving this station we cross a bridge over Ham’s Fork, immediately at its junction with Black’s Fork. Ham’s Fork rises about forty miles to the northwest, in Hodge’s Pass. The bot- tom lands of this stream are very pro- ductive of grass; the upper portion of the valleys, near the mountains, produce ex- cellent hay-crops. It is supposed that the small grains would flourish here under ir- rigation, but the experiment has not yet been tried on a large scale, though the whole valley can be irrigated with but lit- tle labor. In 1867, the Union Pacific Railroad Company surveyed a route from this point —Ham’s Fork—via Salmon Falls, Old’s | Ferry on the Snake River, and Umatilla, to Portland, Oregon. The route, as sur- veyed, is 460 miles by railroad, 315 by steam boat. After crossing the bridge we leave Black’s Fork, which bears away to the left, as also the old stage road, which fol- lows up that stream to Fort Bridger. Our course is due west, following up the bank of the Big Muppy, which we cross and re- cross several times before we reach Pied- mont, 50 miles ahead, where we shall leave it. The valley of the stream is nar- row, producing sage-brush and grease- wood in luxuriance, and possibly would produce good crops, with irrigation. Church Buttes—is situated on Big Muddy Creek, just east of the crossing, in the midst of a sage-brush country. The station is 10.5 miles from Granger’s, a noted place for moss agates. hese beautiful stones are found along the line of the road from Green River 1o Piedmont, but in greater profusion here than at any other point near the road. In some places the ground is literally paved with these gems. The flinty boulders vary in size from a pea to about five inches in diameter. The outside of these pebbles is a dark gray and a greenish blue in spots. Should the reader conclude to stop over and hunt moss agates, our advice would be: take your time and a hammer with you; crack the rocks and pebbles beneath your feet; and when you find one of the agates, if it looks dull and rusty, do not throw it away in hopes of finding a prettier one ; for often the dull-looking stone, when rightly cut and dressed, is very beautiful and valuable. Most of the agates are valueless, butsome are very beautiful, and willreadily sell for from $50 to $75. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. iit Church Buttes station derives its name from the peculiar formation of | the sand-stone bluffs, which extend for many miles on the left-hand side of the road; they are about ten miles distant. At the Old Church Buttes station, on the old over- land stage road,”—about nine miles to the south they rise in lofty domes and pinnacles, which, at a distance, resemble the flut- ed columns of some cath- edral of the olden time, standing in the midst of desolation; its lofty tur- reted roof and towering spires rising far above the surrounding country; - but on nearer approach the scene changes, and ; we find a huge mass of sandstone, worn and washed by the elements until it has assumed the outline of a church of the grandest dimensions, it being visible for a great distance. Again we go westward 9.4 miles to Ham pton—a side track, with cattle pens and shute for loading them—large herds of which range in this section, on the hills and in the adjacent valleys. To the left, after leaving the station, we see high buttes of all fantastic shapes, showing water lines, which indicate that there has been “high water” here some time in the past. Carter—is 75 miles from the last station. About seven miles north, a large sulphur spring, and near it a calybeta spring has been discovered, and about fourteen miles further a mountain of coal; the total thickness of the veins is 87 feet, traceable for twelve miles. A branch rail- road is contemplated to the coal bank, via the springs. This station is named for Judge Carter, of Bridger. This gentleman has a large ware- house at this point, where freight is received from Virginia City, Helena, and Bannock City, Montana Territory. This route is said to be 80 miles shorter than any other road leading from the Union Pacific rail- road to these cities. JAMES BRIDGER—See following page. The series of buttes that has been ob- served on our left below, continues, but are more of auniform height—table-topped, with scrub cedars in the gulches and ravines. Some of these buttes look like immense railroad dumps, as they jet out into the valley, round and steep. On the right, the soil is red-clay, with some rocks of the same color. Fort BrieEerR—is ten miles east from this station, over the bluffs, out of sight, having been established in 1858, by General A.§. Johnson, latitude 41 deg. 18 min. and 12 sec.; longitude 110 deg. 82 min. and 38 sec. Black’s Fork, which runs through the center of the parade ground, affords ex- cellent water, and with Smith’s Fork, a stream five miles southeast, affords as fine trout as there isin the country. The chief of the Shoshones, Wash-a-kie, whose picture will be found on page 61, is almost always atthis post. He is a very kind, honorable Indian, and has been the steadfast friend of the whites for many years. | 112 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST This post was named after Jamus BripgEr, the renouned hunter, trapper and guide, who lived in this country nearly half acentury. (See portrait page 111.) “Jim” Bridger is undoubtedly the most noted of all the old plains men, and! early pioneers in our far western country. Through the courtesy of W. A. Carter, of Fort Bridger, we have been furnished with a fine picture of Mr. Bridger, and a short sketch of his eventful life—from which we condense: “Jim” was born in Richmond, Virginia —sometime about the last of the last cen- tury—and while he was very small, his parents emigrated to St. Louis, Mo., where, shortly after their arrival, they both died of an epidemic then prevailing in that city. Having no one to look to or care for him, he engaged to accompany a party of trappers who were then fitting out for a trip to the Rocky Mountains. Entirely devoid of even the commonestru- diments of education, he crossed the then almost wholly unknown and _ trackless plains, and plunged into the pathless mountains. Greatly attracted by the novelty of the sport, at that time quite profitable, | he entered eagerly upon the business of trading in fur. Being naturally shrewd, and possessing a keen faculty of observation, he carefully studied the habits of the beaver, and pro.ting by the knowledge obtained from the Indians—with whom he chiefly associated, and with whom he became a great favorite—he soon became one of the most expert trappers and hunters in the mountains. Eager to satisfy his curiosity, a natural fondness for mountain scenery, and a rov- ing disposition, he traversed the country in every direction, sometimes in company with Indians, but oftener alone; he famil- iarized himself with every mountain peak, every gorge, every hill, and every land- mark in the country. He pursued his trap- ping expeditions north to the British Pos- sessions, south to Mexico, and west tothe Pacific Ocean. In this way be became acquainted with all the tribes of Indians in the country, and by long intercourse with them, learned their language and became familiar with all their signs. He adopted their habits, conformed to their customs, became imbued with all their superstitions, and at length excelled them in strategy. The marvelous stories told by Bridger are numerous, but we have not the space for a “specimen.” In after years, when it be- came necessary to send millitary expedi- tions through the far western country, the Government employed Bridger as a guide, and his expericuce was turned to good ac- count as an interpreter of Indian languages. Mr. Bridger died in 1875, near Kansas City, Mo., having outlived the sphere of his usefulness, there being no longer any portion of the West unexplored, and hav- ing reached the period of second childhood. s this post is one of great historic in- terest, we publish, in our ANNEX No. 17. Memories of Fort Bridger. ‘lo the next station itis 9.5 miles, and is named after that old hunter and trapper, Bridger—and it is as unpretentious as the original. Scrubcedar in the highrocky bluffs, sage-brush, red sandstone and red clay, with bunch-grass for sandwiching, is the make-up of the surrounding country. It is inhabited by. a few wood-choppers, some stock men, with herds of cattle and sheep, a few deer, antelope, coyotes and jack rabbits by the thousands. For agricul- tural purposes, it is in a high state of deso- lation. For the next three stations we shall ascend rapidly. The bluffs are nearer, and we cross and re-cross the “Muddy” very often, the little stream being nearly as crooked as the streets in Boston. A few miles beyond, on the left, is a towering cliff, which comes toa point, near the road, on the side of which are some notable water-lines. This cliff is about 500 feet in height, and where it comes to a point is pulpit-shaped, and is known as Pluto’s Outlook. A little further south is his Majesty’s Stone-Yard, to which the railroad company, years ago, laid a track for the purpose of using the flat stone which lay around scattered all over the “yard,” but here a difficulty seems to have arisen. The masons re- ported that the stone was “ bedeviled,” and would not lay still; when the stone was laid flat in their work, the next morning they would be found on the edge; when laid on the edge and left alone for a few moments, they were found flat- ways. This state of things so alarmed the masons that they abandoned their work and the country, and it is not known what has become of them. Leroy—a side-track, is five miles from Bridger. Near here the old overland road comes down the mountains, crossing the railroad to the west, at Burns’ old ranche, the route marked by the line of telegraph AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. poles. Three miles west, on this stage road, | are the soda springs. Piedmont— is ten miles from Le- roy; there are a few dozen buildings in sight. The principal business in which the people are engaged is the burning of charcoal for shipment to smelting fur- naces in Salt Lake Valley. There are five patent kilns close to the left of the road, the wood being hauled from the Uintah Mountains to the southward, from 15 to 20 miles distant. Leaving the station, look ahead from the left side, at the track and snow-sheds. The grade is very heavy, the country is rough and broken, and the road is very crooked, al- | 1 most doubling back on itself in places. The track is laid over many long and high trestle bridges, all of which have been filled in with dirt, within the last six years. Before reaching the next station, our train will pass through five long snow- sheds. The small houses near the sheds are the habitations of the watchmen who have them in charge. These sheds are built very tight to prevent fine snow from sifting through, which causes them to be quite dark. From Piedmont, it is 9.4 miles to Aspen—a side-track. Lumber piles and water-tank make up the place. This station is next in height to Sherman, on the line of the Union Pacific. Elevation, 7,835 feet ; is 977 miles from San Francisco, and 937 from Omaha, situated on the low- est pass over the Uintah Mountains. The station derives its name from the high mountain to the north, called “Quak- ing Asp.” The summit of this mountain is covered with snow during most of the year. The “quaking asp,” or aspen, a species of poplar, grows in profusion in the gulches and on the sides of the moun- tain. The old overland stage road winds around the northern base; while the railroad girds its southern borders, nearly encircling it between the old and new; de- cay and death marking the one, life, energy and poring eee the other. Leaving Aspen, the grade is downward to Salt Lake Valley. After rolling through two long snow-sheds and five miles of road, we are at Hilliard—population 400. At this station business can be felt in the air. A “VY ” flume crosses the railroad track—20 feet above it—in which immense quanti- ties of lumber, ties, telegraph poles, cord- wood, es are floated down from the pine. 113 ries of the Uintah Mountains, from 20 to 30 miles distant, south. Just to the right of the station are located long rows of Harvey’s patent bee-hive kilns, for burn- ing charcoal. There are about 30 of them, of two different sizes, some with a capacity for 20 and some 40 cords of wood. These kilns can each be filled and burned three times a month, and from 20 cords of wood 1,000 bushels of charcoal is pro- duced. This coal is mostly shipped to smelting furnaces, to the westward—Salt Lake City, Virginia City, Eureka, San Francisco, etc. One smelting furnace was — here—at the coal—during the year Sulphur springs are located opposite the station, to the north and south, from 10 to 25 miles distant, but they are getting too common to require a description; and then, owing to late teachings, they pos- sess little interest to owr readers. Two miles from Hilliard, to the right of the road, we come to the site of old Bear River City, of early railroad days, but now entirely deserted. It is situated in a little valley at the mouth of a ravine, where the old overland stage road comes down from the north of Quaking Asp Mountain. At one time this place was quite populous, and was supposed likely to become a permanent town. At this point the roughs and gamblers, who had been driven from point to point westward, made a stand, congregating in large num- bers. They swore that they would be driven no further; that here they would. stay, and fight it out to the bitter end. The town contained about 1,000 law-abid- ing people, and when the roughs felt that trouble was coming on them, they with- drew to the hills and organized for a raid on the town. Meanwhile some of the roughs remained in the town, and a them were three noted garroters, who ha added to their long list of crimes that of murder. The citizens arose, seized and hung them. In this act they were sus- tained by all law-abiding people, also by the Index, a paper which had followed the road, but was then published here. This hastened the conflict, and on the 19th of November, 1868, the roughs attacked the | town in force. This attack was repulsed by the citizens, though not until the Bear River riot had cost sixteen lives, includin thatof one citizen. The mob first attack and burned the jail, taking thence one of their kind who was confined there. They “come to the valley of Bear 114 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST next sacked the office and destroyed the ma- terial of the Frontier Index, which was sit- uated in a building close to the railroad, on the south side. Hlated with their success, the mob, numbering about 300 well-armed desperadoes, marched over to the north side, up the main street, and made an attack on a store belonging to one of the leading mer- chants. Here they were met with a vol- ley from Henry rifles, in the hands of brave and determined citizens, who had collected in the store. The mob was thrown into confusion, and fled down the street, pursued by the citizens, about thirty in number. The first volley and the run- ning fight left fifteen of the desperadoes dead on the street. The number of wounded was never ascertained, but sev- eral bodies were afterwards found in the gulches and among the rocks, where they had crawled away and died. One citizen was slain in the attack on the jail. From this time the roughs abandoned the city. The town declined as soon as the road was built past it, and now there is nothing left to mark the place, except a few ol chimneys, broken bottles and scattered oyster cans. Passing on, the bluffs are high and broken, coming close to the road, leaving buta narrow valley, until wereach Millis—a side-track, four miles from Hilliard. Soon after passing Millis, we iver, down which we run for two miles and cross that river on a trestle bridge, 600 feet in length. Bear RivER—This stream rises about _ sixty miles to the south in the Uintah and Wasatch Mountains. It has many tribu- taries, which abound in very fine trout— and quite a business is carried on in catch- ing and salting them for the trade. The river here runs almost due north, to Port Neuf Gap. Before reaching the Gap, it comes to Bear Lake, from which it takes its name. The lake is about 15 miles long by seven wide, and contains plenty of trout and other fish. There are some pretty Mormon settlements at different points along the river and lake shore. _ The Upper Bear Lake Valley is a point of great interest on account of the fertility of the soil, its romantic situation, the beautiful and grand scenery of rock, lake and mountain in that neighborhood. The valley lies in Rich county, the most north- ern county in Utah Territory, and is about 25 miles long, with a varying width. At Port Neuf Gap, the river turns, and thence its course is nearly due south; until it empties into Great Salt Lake, near the town of Corinne. The course of the river can best be understood when we say that it resembles the letter U in shape. From where it rises it runs due north to latitude 42 deg. 30 min., then suddenly turning, it runs south to latitude 41 deg. 43 min., before it finds the lake. Within this bend lies the Wasatch Mountains, a spur of the Uintah, a rugged, rough, bold, but narrow range. The entire region is wild and pictur- esque, and would well repay the tourist for the time spent in visiting it. About sixty miles distant, to the north, are the far-famed Soda Springs, of Idaho, situated in Oneida county, Idaho Territory. The old route, by which this northern country was reached, was from Ogden, via Ogden Canyon and Ogden Valley; now the best route is via Utah Northern railroad to Franklin, and from thence east; see further on. We now return to the road, and pass down the valley, cross Yellow Creek, one of the tributaries of Bear River, and 9.5 miles from Millis, arrive at Evanston—This is a regular eating station, where trains from the East and West stop 30 minutes for dinner; the wait- ers are Chinese. Evanston is the county seat of Uintah county, Wyoming, 957 miles from either Omaha or San Francisco—just half way between the Missouri River and the Pa- cific Ocean. The Railroad Company have erected a 20-stall round-house, repair shops, hotel, freight and passenger buildings, and the place has improved otherwise very much. It now contains about 1,200 white and about 150 Chinese inhabitants. The town boasts of some good buildings— including a fine courthouse. The Age, a weekly newspaper, is published here. ' The citizens of Evanston are mostly en- gaged in lumbering, coke-burning, coal- mining and stock-raising. : : The railroad was completed to this point late in the fall of 1868, and a large amount of freight was delivered here for Salt Lake Valley and Montana. Saw-mills supply lumber from the almost inexhaustible pine forests on Bear River to the south- ward. About three miles east to the right of the road, and of Bear River Valley, is located the town of Auma—Here are located some of the most valuable coal mines on the road, and AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. which supply large quantities to the rail- road company. ‘The mines are said to be very extensive, easily worked, yielding coal of good quality, and employ about 800 men, most of whom are Chinese. From 150 to 200 car loads are shipped from Alma per day to towns on the line of the Central Pa- cific railroad, to Virginia City, Gold Hill, and Carson in Nevada and to San Fran- cisco. A branch railroad has been con- structed to the mines, leading off about half a mile north of Evanston. Soon after leaving Evanston we ieave Bear River to the right, ard follow up a beautiful little valley eleven miles to Wasatch—This station was once 4 regular eating station, with round-house and machine shops of the company located here, but a change has been made to Evanston, and the place is now deserted. Four miles west we cross the dividing line between Wyoming and Utah Territo- ries. It is marked by a sign-board beside the road, on which is painted on one side, “WYOMING,” the other “* Uran.” Game is found inthe hills—deer, elk, and antelope—and in the Uintah and Wa- satch ranges, brown, black and cinnamon bear are common, and in all the little streams, fish of different kinds are abun- dant—trout particularly. On leaving Wasatch, we arrive at the divide and head of Echo Canon, one-half mile distant. Here we find the longest tunnel on the road, 770 feet in length, cut 115 through hard red clay and _ sandstone. When the tunnel was completed, it was ap- proached from the east by two long pieces of trestle-work, one of which was 2380 feet long and 30 feet high; the other 450 feet long and %5 feet high, which have since been filled in with earth. The tunnel opens to the westward, into a beautiful little canyon, with a narrow strip of grassy bottom land on either side of a miniature stream, known as the North Fork of Echo. The hills are abrupt, and near the road, leaving scarcely more than room for a roadway, including the grassy land re- | ferred to. Along these bluffs, on the left- hand side of the stream, the road-bed has | been made by cutting down the sides of the hills and filling hollows, in some pla- ces from 50 to 75 feet deep. Before the tunnel was completed, the road was laid temporarily from the divide into Echo Canyon by a Z or zigzag track. which let the cars down to the head of the canyon—under the trestles above named. The great difficulty to overcome by the railroad company in locating the road from this point into Salt Lake Valley was the absence of spurs or sloping hills to carry the grade. Every thing seems to give way at once, and pitch headlong away to the level of the lake. The rim, or outer edge, of the table-lands, breaks ab- ruptly over, and the streams which make out from this table-land, instead of keep- ing their usual grade, seem to cut through “ pPRICKEY,” THE PET HORNED TOAD OF THE PACIFIC COAST. z See ANNEX No. 92. 116 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST the rim and drop into the valley below, there being no uplands to carry them. By the present line of road, the cars enter Echo Canyon proper at the little sta- tion of Castile Rock—84 miles from Wasatch. This station derives its name from the long line of sandstone bluffs on the right-hand side of the canyon, which are worn and torn away until, in the dis- tance, they have the appearance of the old feudel castles, so often spoken of, but so seldom seen, by modern tourists. For a long distance these rocks line the right- hand bank of the canyon, their massive red sandstone fronts towering from 500 to 1,500 feet above the little valley, and bear- ae the general name of “ Castle Rocks.” he cars descend the canyon amid some of the grandest and wildest scenery imag- inable. We donot creep along as though we mistrusted our powers, but with a snort and roar the engine plunges down the de- file, which momentarily increases to a gorge, only to become, in a short distance, a grand and awful chasm. About 7.2 miles below Castle Rock, the traveler can behold the Natural Bridge, a conglomerate formation, spanning a cleft in the wall on the right-hand side. This Hanging Rock—of Echo has more than a local reputation—see illustration, page 39. It gave the name to one of the overland stage stations, when the comple- tion of this road was—but in the dreams of its sanguine projectors—an undefined and visionary thing of the future. The left hand side of the canyon pre- sents but few attractions compared with the bolder and loftier bluffs opposite. The wall breaks away and recedes in sloping, grassy hillsides, while we know not what lies beyond these walls to the right, for they close the view in that direction. ‘Wall, solid wall, broken wall, walls of sandstone, walls of granite, and walls ofa conglomerate of both, mixed with clay, rise far above us, and shut from our vision whatever lies beyond. The beauties of Echo Canyon are so many, SO majestic, so awe-inspiring in their sublimity, that there is little use in calling the traveler’s attention to them. Butas we rush swiftly along, seemingly beneath these towering heights, we can note some of the more prominent features. The only difficulty wil] be that one will hardly see them all, asthe cars thunder along, waking the echoes among these castellated monuments of red rock, whose towering domes and frowning buttresses gave the name to this remarkable opening in the Wasatch Mountains. Four miles below Hanging Rock the walls rise in massive majesty—the prominent features of the canyon. Rain, wind and time have combined to destroy them, but in vain. Centuries have come and gone since that mighty convulsion shook the earth to its center, when Echo and Weber canyons | sprung into existence—twin children— whose birth was heralded by throes such as the earth may never feel again, and still the mighty wall of Echo remains, bidding defiance alike to time and his co-laborers— the elements; still hangs the delicate fret and frost work from the walls; still the pillar, column, dome and spire stand boldly forth in all their grand, wild and weird beauty to entrance the traveler, and fill his mind with wonder and awe. About six miles below Hanging Rock, up on the topmost heights of the towering cliffs, a thousand feet above the bed of the canyon, can be seen the fortifications erected by the Mormons to defend this pass against the army under Johnson, sent out in 1857 by Uncle Sam. These fortifi- cations consist of massive rocks, placed on the verge of the precipice, which were to be toppled over on the heads of the sol- diers below, but the experiment was never made, so the rocks remain to be used on some other foe, or as the evidences of a people’s folly. On goes the engine, whirling us past castle, cathedral, towering column and rugged battlement, past ravines which cut the walls from crest to base in awful chasms, shooting over bridges and flying past and under the overhanging walls (see Steamboat Rock, ANNEx No. 19), when, after crossing Echo Creek, thirty-one times in twenty-six miles, we rush past the Witches’ Cave and Pulpit Rock, our en- gine giving a loud scream of warning to the brakemen, who “throwing on the brakes,” bring the train to a stop, and we get out once more to examine the country, ‘Weber River and Echo City station. Before we take a final leave of Echo Canyon we will relate an incident, thrill- ing in its nature, but happily ending with- out serious results, which occurred there during the construction of the road from Echo City to the mouth of Weber, and is known as “ Paddy Miles’ Ride.’’—see An- NEX No. 20. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 1 * Directly ahead of our train, as it emerges | miles distant from Echo. from Echo Canyon, coming in from the south, is WEBER RIveER—This stream rises in the Wasatch Mountains, 70 miles to the south, its waters being supplied by thou- sands of springs, many larger tributaries, and the everlasting snows of this rugged mountain range. It empties into the Great Salt Lake, just below Ogden, about 50 miles from Echo City. The valley of the Weber, from Echo City up to its source, is very fertile, and thickly settled by the Mormons. Three miles above this | gtation is Chalk Creek,where a fine coal- bank has been discovered. Three miles beyond this point is Coalville, a Mormon settlement of 800 inhabitants—a thriving village. Its name is derived from the carboniferious formations existing there. The coal-beds are extensive, some of the veins being of good quality, others being lignite. The Summit County railroad, a narrow-gauge, is completed from Echo City to Coalville, seven miles, with a branch to an extensive coal mine, five miles further. The track leaves Echo City and passes along close below the Union track at Pulpit Rock. Seven miles beyond Coalville is the pleasant village of Winship, situated at the junction of Silver Creek and Weber River, containing 1,000 inhabitants. The “old stage road” followed up Weber to this point, thence up Silver Creek via Parley Park, and thence to Salt Lake City, 50 ParLEy ParK—tThis is a beautiful val- ley on the old stage road, about five miles long by three miles wide. It is very fer- tile, producing fine crops of small grain. Several hundred settlers have located and made themselves homes. There is a fine hotel, once kept as a stage station, now kept by William Kimball, eldest son of Heber C. Fish, in any desired quantity, can be caught in the streams, and game of many varieties, including deer and bears, inhabit the adjoining mountains. It is one of those pleasant places where one loves to linger, regrets to leave, and longs to visit again. We advise tourists to visit it; they will not regret a week or a month among the hills and streams of the Upper Weber. Near this point gold and silver mines have been discovered—which prove very rich, chief of which is the Ontario Mine, the most productive in Utah, and the prospects now are that the “ Park ” will become quite a great mining center. Re- turning, we stop a few moments at Echo City—The town is situated at the foot of the bluff, which towers far above it, 9.4 miles from Hanging Rock. As the cars enter the city from Echo Can- he they turn to the right, and close at the ase of the cliff, on the right, stands Pulpit Rock (see illustration) and the old stage ranche on the left, just where it appears that we must pitch off into the valley and river below. This city is not very inviting, unless you like to huntand fish, when a PULPIT ROCK, MOUTH OF ECHO CANYON, UTAH. 118 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST stay of a few days would be passed very pleasantly. Chalk Creek, Silver Creek, Echo Creek, and Weber River, afford excellent trouting, while antelope are shot near the city. The mountains abound in bears, deer and elk. Echo contains about 200 inhabitants, in- cluding those settlers near by and the rail- road employes. Coal beds, extensive ones, are found near by, as well as an indefinite quantity of iron ore, which must possess a market value, sooner or later. Near Echo City, across the Weber, a tavine leads up the mountain side, wind- ing and turning around among the gray old crags, until it leads into a beautiful little dell, in the center of which reposes a miniature lakelet, shut in on all sides by the hills. It is a charming, beautiful, tiny little gem, nestled amid a gray, grand setting of granite peaks and pine-clad gorges—a speck of delicate etherealized beauty amid the strength and ruggednegs of a coarser world. WerBER Canyon—To give a minute de- scription of this remarkable place we can- not attempt, as it would fill a volume were its beauties fully delineated, and each point of interest noted. But as one of the grand and remarkable features of the road it demands a notice, however meager, at our hands. For about 40 miles the river rushes foaming along, between two mas- sive mountain walls, which close the land- scape on either hand. Now, the torrent plunges over some mighty rock which has fallen from the towering cliff 1,000 feet above; anon, it whirls around in frantic struggles to escape from the boiling eddy, thence springing forward over a short, smooth rapid, only to repeat the plunge again and again, until it breaks forth into the plains, whence it glides away toward the lake, as though exhausted with its wild journey through the canyon. In passing down the canyon, the traveler should closely watch, for fresh objects of wonder and interest will spring suddenly into sight on either hand. From Echo City, the cars speed along the banks of the Weber for about four miles, when they enter the Narrows of Weber Canyon, through which the road is cut for two miles, most of the way in the side of the steep mountain that drops its base in the river-bed. Soon after leaving Echo City, on the right, about 100 yards from the road, and 300 feet above it, can be seen the ‘“ Wiches’ Rocks,” a collection of red, yellow and gray conglomerate rocks, standing out from the side of the cliff, varying in height from 20 to 60 feet. Shortly after entering the Narrows, the OnE THousanp Mine TREE is passed— a thrifty, branching pine—bearing on its trunk a sign-board that tells the western- bound traveler that he has passed over 1,000 miles of railway from Omaha. This living milestone of nature’s planting has ONE THOUSAND MILE TREE, U. P. R, R. Cee er AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. INTERIOR VIEW OF MORMON TABERNACLE, long marked this place; long before the hardy Mormon passed down this wild gorge; long before the great trans-conti- nental railroad was even thought of. It stood a lonely sentinal, when all around was, desolation; when the lurking savage and wild beast claimed supremacy, and each in turn reposed in the shade of its waving arms. How changed the scene! The ceaseless bustle of an active, progres- sive age, the hum of labor, the roar and rush of the passing locomotive, has usurped the old quiet, and henceforward the Lonz TREE will be,not a guide tothe gloomy past, but an index of the coming greatness of a regenerated country. ust below this tree, the cars cross a tres- tle bridge to the left bank of the Weber, thence down but a short distance, before they cross over another trestle to the right- hand side, and then, almost opposite the bridge, on the side of the mountain to the left, can be seen the Dervin’s Sirp8, or serrated rocks. This slide is composed of two ridges of granite rock, reaching from the river nearly to the summit of a sloping, grass-clad moun- tain. They are from 50 to 200 feet high, narrow slabs, standing on edge, as though forced cut of the mountain side. The two ridgesrun parallel with each other—about 10 feet apart, the space between being cov- ered with grass, wild flowers and climbing vines. (See illustration, page 45.) Rushing swiftly along past Weber Quarry—2n unimportant side-track, 8.5 miles from Echo City, we soon lose sight of these rocks and behold others more grand, of different shapes, and massive proportions. The mountains seem to have been dovetailed together, and then torn rudely asunder, leaving the rough promontories and rugged chasms as so many obstacles to bar our progress. But engineering skill has triumphed over all. Where the road could not be built over or around these points, it is tunneled under. Now we shoot across the river, and dart through a tunnel 550 feet long, cut in solid rock, with heavy cuts and fills at either entrance. Just before entering this tunnel, high up to the left, formerly stood “ Finger Rock,” as seen in the illus- tration (page 55), but which has been broken away, so as not to be visible now. The frowning cliffs bar our further way, and again we cross the roaring tor- rent and burrow under the point of an- other rocky promontory. Here the road stretches across a pretty little valley, known as Round Valley. Dashing along, with but a moment to spare in which to note its beauties, we enter the narrowing gorge again, where the massive walls close in and crush out the green meadows. Between. these lofty walls, with barely room for the track be- tween them and the foaming torrent at our 120 feet; on, around a jotting point—and again we emerge into a lengthened widening of the canyon, and we pause for a moment at Weber—seven miles from Quarry. This station lies between two Mormon settlements, which, taken in connection, are called Morgan City. The villages are separated by the river which flows through bottom lands, most of which are under cultivation ; population about 1,000. There are some good buildings of brick and stone, but the greater number are of logs and adobe—sun-dried bricks. At this sta- tion, opposite the depot, the first Z. C. M. I, appears, which, in Mormon rendering, means “ Zion’s Co-operative Mercantile In- stitution ’—a retail branch of the great co-operative house in Salt Lake City. This valley shows the effects of irriga- tion insUtah. Wherever theland is below the irrigating canals, and is cultivated, it yields immense crops. Grass grows all the way to the summit—and on the sum- mit—of nearly all these mountains, afford- ing the best of pasturage all the year round,. as the fall of snow is light, and enough of what does fall is blown off by the wind, so that cattle and sheep can find sufficient for their needs at all seasons. The same may be said of the whole slope of the mountains of Utah at the same altitude. Game of all kinds is numerous through- out the same section, and trout exceedingly plenty, even in the tinyest little streams. The road follows down the right-hand bank through this valley until just below Peterson—a small, unimportant sta- tion, 9.7 miles from Weber, when it crosses to the left-hand side, which it fol- lows for four miles further, between tow- ering mountains, the valley now lost in the narrow, gloomy gorge, when suddenly the whistle shrieks the pass-word as we ap- proach the Devil’s Gate—a mere side-track, soon after leaving which, the brink of the torrent is neared, and the wild scenery of the Devil’s Gate is before us. Onward toils the long train through a deep cut and across the bridge—50 feet above the seeth- ing cauldron of waters, where massive. frowning rocks rear their crests far up toward the black and threatening clouds which hover over this witches’ cauldron. With bated breath we gaze on this wild scene, and vainly try to analyze our feel- ings, in which awe, wonder, and admira- tion are blended. We: have no time for CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST thought, as to how or when this mighty work was accomplished, no time nor in- clination to compare the work of nature with the puny work beneath us, but on- ward, with quickened speed, down the right-hand bank of the stream ; on between these massive piles, worn and seamed in their ceaseless struggles against the de- stroying hand of time; on to where yon opening of light marks the open country; on, past towering mountain and toppling rock, until we catch a view of the broad, sunlit plains, and from the last and blackest of the buttresses which guard the entrance into Weber, we emerge to light and beauty, to catch the first view of the Great Salt Lake, to behold broad plains and well-cultivated fields which stretch their lines of waving green and golden shades beyond Uintah Statiom—We have now passed through the Wasatch Mountains, and are fairly in the Great Salt Lake Val- ley. The elevation at this point is 4,560 feet, 2,819 feet lower than Wasatch, 58 miles to the eastward. Uintah is 4.5 miles from the Devil’s Gate. Near the station, on this broad bottom, in 1862, was the scene of the Morrisite massacre. Here 500 men of Brigham Young’s Mormon Legion, and 500 men who volun- teered for the occasion, with five pieces of artillery, commanded by Robert T. Bur- ton, attacked the “ Morrisites,” and after three days’ skirmishing, and after a score or more had been killed, the “ Morrisites ” surrendered. The noble Burton, after the surrender, took possession of everything he could find in the name of the Church; shot down their leader, Joseph Morris— an apostate Mormon—whose only fault was that he claimed to be the true Prophet of God, instead of Brigham Young. This man Burton, at the same time shot and killed too women who dared to beg him to save the life of their Prophet. The followers of Morris consisted of 1 | about 90 able-bodied men, mostly unarmed, and over 300 old men, women and chil- dren. The prisoners were all taken to Salt Lake City, and condemned, and those who were able to work had their legs or- namented with a ball and chain, and were put to picking stone to build the Mormon temple. On the 9th of March, 1868, these parties were all pardoned by Hon. &. 8. Harding, who had that spring arrived in Utah as Governor of the Territory. ® » ate ae C RL og > ‘Gl i HN oO | Fa en I ce ce a C = DM ra o Zz (‘o£ ‘on xouuy 99s) AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 121 Leaving Uintah, the road winds around to the right and follows the base of the mountains, with theriver on the left. The country is fertilé and dotted with well- tilled farms. As ‘we run along down the Weber River, and 7.5 miles from Uintah, we reach Ogden—the junction of Union and Cen- tral Pacific railroads. The distance from Omaha is 1,082 miles; from San Francisco 882 miles; from Salt Lake City, 36 miles; elevation, 4,301 feet. Near the station building are the depots of the Utah Cen- tral and the Utah Northern railroads. All passengers, baggage, mail, and ex- press, “change cars” at this station. Pas- sengers who have through tickets in sleep- ing cars will occupy the same numbers in the Central as they had in the Union, and those who had their baggage checked through need give it no attention; but those who only checked to this place—to the end of the U. P. road—will need to see that it is rechecked. At this station, trains stop a full hour, and sometimes a little longer—much depending upon the amount we matter to be changed from one train to another. The station building stands between the tracks, in which passengers will find a dining room, where they can have ample time to eat a good “square meal ”’—price $1.00. Most of the buildings at the station are of wood, but the necessary grounds have been secured near by for the erection of a “Union Depot,” When will it be done? Quien sabe? OGDEN City is situated two miles east from the depot, at the mouth of Ogden Canyon, one of the gorges which pierce the Wasatch range, and between the Weber and Ogden rivers. Population, ahout 6,500. This is the county seat of Weber county, and has amply provided itself with all needful county buildings. The Mor- mons have a tabernacle, and several other denominations have places of worship here. The citizens are mostly Mormon, and all public improvements are under their supervision. It is a poor place for “ carpet-baggers.” The waters of the Ogden River are con- ducted through the streets, and used in the gardens and fields for irrigating, the re- sult of which is that the any is in the midst of one ees flower garden and for- est of fruit and shade trees. In the gar- dens are fruit trees of all kinds, which bear abundantly, and in the fields are raised immense crops of grain and vege- tables. Rich mines of iron, silver and slate are reported near the city, but little has been done towards developing them. Ogden has several good hotels, chief of which is the Utah House. Two news- papers are published here, the Daily June- tvon and the Freeman, weekly. The Wasatch Mountains rise some thou- sands of feet above the city, and the tourist would find much of interest in a stroll up the mountain side and along the canyons. Ogden Canyon is about five miles long, and from its mouth to its source, from plain to mountain top, the scenery is grand and im- posing. In places the granite walls rise on each side 1,500 feet high, and for a consid- erable distance not more than 150 feet apart. About six miles from Ogden, up in the mountains behind the town, is a lovely lit- tle valley called “‘ The Basin,” watered by mountain streams and covered with a lux- uriant growth of grass. Before proceeding further, we will take a hasty glance at Utah Territory. This territory extends from the 87th to the 42d parallel of north latitude, and from the 109th to the 114th ee of west longi- tude, containing a superficial area of about 65,000 square miles, with a population of about 130,000 whites, Indians and Chinese. This area includes large tracts of wild mountainous and barren country. At pres- ent, most of the lands under cultivation and the meadow lands are around the lakes and in the neighboring mountain val- leys, and are very productive when irri- gated ; grains, fruits and vegetables matur- ing readily, and yielding large returns— the aridity of the climate precluding the growing of crops by any other means. Opposite title page of this book, see illus. tration—Utah’s Best Crop. Rich veins of gold, silver, coal, iron, cop- per, zinc, cinnabar, antimony, and nearly all the metals found in the “Great West,” exist in Utah, and it is the opinion of most men, had it not been for the “ Councils” of Brigham Young to his followers, the Mor- mons, not to prospect for minerals, Utah might to-day: be an honored State, in the great family of States, with a developed mineral wealth, second only to California, and possibly the first. The whole country within her borders would be illuminated 122 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST —_—_—oo eee with the perpetual fires of her “smelting furnaces,” and resound with the thundermg echoes and re-echoes of the thousands of de- scending stamps grinding out the wealth, which, since the completion of the Pacific railroad, and the consequent influx of “Gentiles”? has been exported by mil- lions and most effectually demonstrated the fact that Utah, if not therichest, is certainly next to the richest silver-mining country in the world. Besides the above, brimstone, saltpeter, gypsum, plumbago and sodahave been dis- covered, some of which are being worked, while fire-clay, marble, granite, slate, red and white sandstone, limestone and kindred. formations exist to an almost unlimited ex- tent. Salt can be shoveled wp in its crude state on the shores of Salt Lake, and in the southern part of the Territory, is found by the mountain, in a remarkably transparent and pure state. Iron ore exists in large quantities in Tron, Summit and Weber counties, Coal abounds in various parts, but the principal mines now worked are at Coalville, in Summit county andin San Pete. The lat- ter yields a good quality of blacksmith coal, in large quantities. At this time there are about 30 organized mining districts inthe Territory. Wehave not the space to devote to a description of the mines, were we able; they appear to be inexhaustible and very rich. For a very complete mining map of Utah, see page 109. Fish culture has, since 1874, been re- ceiving some attention, and a fish farm with a superintendent thereof, is located a few miles from Salt Lake City. There are quite a number of smelting furnaces in operation in various parts of the Territory, and in Salt Lake City. Utah was first settled in 1847. On the 24th of July, the advance guard of the Mor- mon emigration, numbering 148 men, en- tered Salt Lake Valley; five days later 150 more men arrived under Captain Brown, and on July 31st, Great Salt Lake City was laid out. At that time the country be- longed to the Republic of Mexico, but by the treaty of Gaudaloup Hidalgo, in 1848 it was ceded to the United States. The summers are very warm and dry; the winters mild and open. The fall of snow is light in the valley and heavy in the mountain, the melting of which affords ample water for irrigating the foothills and valleys. Vegetables of all kinds grow astonishingly large, and of superior quality. Timber is not very plenty, and then, is only found in the mountains of difficult ac- cess. Returning to business; at Ogden, we will step into the cars of the Utah Central Railroad, The principal offices of which are at Salt Lake City. JOHN SHARP,... .. President and Superintendent. Joun SHARP, JR.,...... General Passenger Agent. di, Wis OKs ce one cco. co cheree see ceeue we Engineer. The Utah Central is 36.5 miles in length and the pioneer road of Utah, excepting the through line. May 17, 1869, just one week after the “love feast” of the Union and the Central at Promentory, ground was broken at Ogden, and the enterprise was inaugurated with due ceremonies; Presi- dent Brigham Young and the chief digni- taries of the Mormon church being in at tendance. In about half an hour after the overland trains arrive at Ogden Junction, the cars of this road roll up to the depot for passengers. When leaving, the train crosses the Weber River, on a fine bridge ; just to the north of the depot passes through a deep cut and comes out on a bench of 1and that gradually slopes from the mountains on the left, to the waters of the lake on the right, six and four miles distant, respectively. From the car window, on the right, a good view can be had of a portion of Great Salt Lake, but the best view is to be had from the top of Promontory Mountain. See ANNEX No, 21. The first station from Ogden is 16 miles distant, along the slop- ing land named, which is covered above the line of irrigation, With sage, but below with the thrifty Mormon farmers. A wide strip of land near the Lake is valueless, owing to the salt in the soil. KaysviItLE—-is an incorporated town in Davis county, and is surrounded with well-cultivated farms, finely kept gardens, with water running through the streets, and has fruit and shrubbery in profusion. The county is comprised of five towns, all, with one exception, traversed by our road, within the next 15 miles. The county has about 7,000 population, seven flouring mills and three saw mills. FARMINGTON—is the next station, five miles distant, being the county seat of Davis county, and contains good county buildings, several flouring mills, and the usual beautiful surroundings of fruit trees and orchards, for which alt Mormot set- tlements are noted. —t AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 123 BRIGHAM YOUNG.—Ffor sketch of life see Annex No. 25. CENTERVILLE—is the next station, four miles from Farmington. The description of one Mormon village will do for nearly ail; good farms and crops are the rule, where the land is irrigated, and none where it is not. Woop’s Crossrne—comes next, two miles further, being the station for the lit- tle village of Bountiful, on the left, and is in the midst of the best cultivated and best producing land in the Territory. The course of our road from Ogden to Salt Lake is almost due south, while the Wasatch Mountains, for 30 miles, describe a huge circle in the middle to the east- ward. The lower pointof this circle we are fast approaching, and will reach in about two miles, just at the point of the mountain ahead, where steam is rising. There, under the point of that huge rock, boils up a hot spring, in a large volume, forming a creek several feet in width, with a depth of six inches, and it is very hot. There is no nonsense about this spring; it will boil an egg in two minutes. The highest peak in the mountain, close to the eastward of these springs al- luded to, is 1,200 feetabove the valley, and is 124 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST called Ensign Peak—the “ Mount of Proph- ecy,”’—where the late Prophet, Brigham Young, was wont to wrestle with the Lord. Just beyond, on the right, is Hot Spring Lake, which is formed from the waters of this and others of lesser volume, near by. This lake freezes over in the winter, except near the shore on the northeastern end, and is a great resort for skating parties from Salt Lake City. Great Salt Lake never freezes over—it’s too salt. Passing the lake, our road keeps straight across a broad bottom, while the moun- tains on the left again curve away to the eastward. The Warm Spring buildings, where are | located the city baths, can be seen beside the mountain on the left, marked by a con- tinuous column of steam, rising near the | buildings. These are the disputed springs, to obtain possession of which, it is supposed by many, Dr. Robinson was murdered. The baths are well patronized by invalids, who visit them for health, relying on their me- dicinal qualities to remove their ailments. The following is an analysis of the water, as made by Dr. Charles T. Jackson, of Boston : Three fluid ounces of the water on evap- oration to entire dryness in a platina cap- sule gave 8.25 grains of solid, dry, saline matter. Carbonate of lime and magnesia.....0.240 Peroxide of iron........2.-..s.000+% 0.040 1.280 0.208 Lime....... oma 6 alee 0545 2.907 Chlorine..........- .-8.454 18.421 SOS (25. uc 0. uuesa- Ga eh ae toe = .-2.877 15.348 PROTOSS, |. in. 5 inc sco s inteiows sie eiswions 4 0.370 2.073 Sulphuricacid........... sale .eue sores 0.703 8.748 8.229 43.981 It is slightly charged with hydro-sul- phuric acid gas and with carbonic acid gas, and is a pleasant saline mineral water, having valuable properties belonging to saline sulphur springs. The usual tem- perature is 102 degrees F. They are one mile north of Salt Lake City, and are reached by stages hourly. Rolling on through the northern suburbs of the city, a little over eight miles from Wood’s Crossing, we stop at the depot in Salt Lake, the City of Zion. Passengers arriving at the depot will find a “ Bus” at the eastern gate that will take a passenger and his baggage to any hotel or point in the city for 50 cents; or, at the same gate, street cars, that pass the door of every prominent hotel in the city; fare, 10 cents, or ten tickets for 50 cents. Salt Lake City—or “Zion,” as the city is often called by the Mormon faith- ful, is one of the most beautiful and pleas- antly located of cities. It is situated at the foot of a spur of the Wasatch Mountains, the northern limits extending on to the “bench” or upland, which unites the plain with the mountain. From the east two wagon roads enter the city, via Emi- grant and Parley Canyons. The streets are wide, bordered with shade-trees, and laid out at right angles. Along each side of the streets is a clear, cold stream of water from the mountain canyons, which, with the numerous shade- trees and gardens, give the city an inde- scribable air of coolness, comfort and re- ose. The city contains a population of full 20,000, is the capital of the Territory and county seat of Salt Lake county. It has 21 wards within its limits, and is the terminus of three railroads. It contains some as fine business blocks, hotels, and private residences, as can be found in any city west of the Missouri River. The Mormon church, besides its Taber- nacle, has a bishop located in every ward of the city, who holds ward meetings regu- larly. The other churches hold services in four or more places in the city. The Ma- sons have five lodges in the city; the Odd Fellows four, and some of the other fellows several. There are 38 mining and smelting offices, five sampling and smelt- ing works, five iron foundries, boiler and brass works, two flouring mills, one woolen mill, nine hotels, six breweries, two exten- sive marble works, and a score or more of small manufacturing establishments. There are four daily newspapers. The Deseret News is the church organ, the Her- ald claims to be independent, the 7'ribune strong opposition Mormon, and the TZ'mes. Each of these issue weeklies. Newspaper business is very precarious in Utah, It’s as fine an opening for a young man to get his “teeth cut,’ as we know of in the world—he can soon get a double and single set all around. In the mercantile line, Salt Lake City TgrMs HEARD ON THE Prarns.—‘ Lariat’ is the Spanish name for rope. ‘‘ Bronco,” Califor- nia or Spanish pony. ‘‘ Bueano,” (wa-no) good, ‘* Esta Bueano,” (star wa-no) very good, no better. ‘* No sabe,” (sarvey) don’t understand. ‘“ Quien sabe,” (kin garvey) who knows, or do you under- stand. . AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 125 has several establishments that would do | company was organized, and incorporated credit to any city in the Union, one of| with man which is » < ZION CO-OPERATIVE MERCANTILE INSTITUTION. The above cut represents the Mormon “ Co-operative Sign ’—called by the Gen- tiles the “ Bull’s Eye.” At the Mormon Conference, in the fall of 1868, all good Mormon merchants, manufacturers and dealers who desired the patronage of the Mormon people, were directed to place this sign upon their buildings in a conspic- uous place, that it might Indicate to the people that they were sound in the faith. The Mormon people were also directed and warned not to purchase goods or in any manner deal with those who refused or did not have the sign. The object seemed to be only to deal with their own people, to the exclusion of all others. The result of these measures on the part of the church was to force many who were Gentiles or apostate Mormons to sacrifice their goods, and leave the Terri- ey. for want of patronage. However, the order was not very strictly enforced—or complied with; yet many of these signs are to be seen in Salt Lake City and other parts of the Territory on buildings occupied by the faithful. To more effectually carry out the plan of co-operation, one great company was to be formed to purchase goods in large quantities and establish branches through- out all the Mormon settlements. Such a high Mormon dignitaries as either stockholders or officers, and it is now known as “ Zion’s Co-operative Mercantile Institution’—with headquarters in Salt Lake =e The “Z. C. M. I,” undoubtedly have the finest and largest building in the city. It is of brick, 318 feet long, 53 feet in width, three stories and cellar, and finished throughout in the best manner. It also has an addition 25 by 195 feet, and used for a warehouse; cost, $175,000, built of iron, stone and glass, but the business owned and conducted by the Walker Bros. is the largest in Utah, requiring five differ- ent departments, each occupying a large building. Think of it, “O ye people!” thirty years ago this whole country 1,000 miles in any direction, was uninhabited and almost un- known to the white race. The annual sales of these two establishments exceed $5,000,- 000, and with their goods, gathered here from all parts of the world, stand forth as monuments of American enterprise, IN AN AMERICAN DESERT. The late President Brigham ‘Young’s residence (see illustration, page 131, also of “Eagle Gate,’ page 133), tithing house, printing office and business offi- ces connected with the church occupy an entire block, on the bench of land over- looking the city, which is one of the first objects of interest visited by the traveler on arriving in Salt Lake City. The traveler who visited this city some years ago—before the discovery of the rich silyer mines—would be surprised by a visit now, at the remarkable changes noticeable on every hand; all is life and energy; everybody seems to have a pocket- ful of certificates of mining property, and you hear of extensive preparations making on every side with a. view to a vigorous prosecution of various mining enterprises. The public buildings are not very numer- ous. They consist of a court-house, city hall, city prison, theatre, and THE TABERNACLE—an immense build- ing—the first object one beholds on enter- ing the city. The building is oblong in shape, having a length of 250 feet from east to west, by 150 feet in width. The roof is supported by 46 columns of cut sandstone, which, with the spaces between, used for doors, windows, etc., constitute the wall. From these pillars or walls, the roof springs in one unbroken arch, form- 126 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ing the largest self-sustaining rvof on the continent, with one notable exception—the Grand Union Depot erected by the late Commodore Vanderbilt in New York. The ceiling of the roof is65 feet above the floor. In one end of this egg-shaped building is the organ—the second in size in America. The Tabernacle is used for church pur- poses, as well as other large gatherings of the people. With the gallery, which ex- tends across both sides and one end of this immense building, it will seat 8,000 people —see illustration, page 1038, also interior view, page 119. THE TeMPLE—This building—a fine il- ica of which we found on page|: , is not yet completed, but work is pro- : essing steadily, and it is up about 20 ——— SS SSS eet. The dimensions of the foundations : : a : : are 99x18614 feet. The site of the Tem-| , Bis house, in addition to its being first- ple is on the eastern half of the same block | C!@88 in every particular, with steam ele- with the Tabernacle. vator and central location, furnishes its Since the advent of railroads into Utah, | S¥¢Sts 8 competent guide free of charge, to and the discovery of the rich mines, conduct them to all places of interest in church property has not accumulated very | 2 City, introduce them to prominent per- rapidly. Within the past few years nearly anfocens when required, and give all needed all the religious denominations have se-|™formation. G.8. Erb, Esq., is proprietor, cured a foothold in this city. and the Walker Bros. are the owners of Camp Doveias—a military post, estab- this house, which fact is a sufficient guar- lished October 26, 1862, b Gen. E. P. oe ee the ¢nnovation is one to be de- Conner, Third Regiment of California Vol- | Pended upon. . : unteer Infantry, situated on the east side i Poe icture of the ae : singe ae of the Jordan, four miles from that stream, | “°™ ae on Pei A a M . ae three miles east of the City of Salt Lake, |C¢ evel xen. It was made by Mr. Say- and fifteen miles southeast of Salt Lake. |#8¢ of Salt Lake City, an eminent artist, Latitude, 40 deg. 46 min. 2 sec.; longi-| 224 is said to be a very accurate picture. tude, 111 deg. 53 min. 34 sec. Its location ve oe ace — as of Brigham is on a sloping upland or bench at the base Por itt it a as Scnowi pout of the mountains and overlooking the city, Sg tL k Cit _ a : No of ange and pares 2 fine view of the country to |P*" “2° ily, 908 ee the west and south. : JorDan RrveR—This stream, which bor-|__.Ve will now take a run over all the ders Salt Lake City on the west, is the out-|T#lvoads in Utah, commencing with the let of Utah Ta which lies about forty Utah Southern Railroad. miles south. It empties into the Great nepal oft It City. Salt Lake, about twelve miles northwest of Principal ames, Sule as JOHN SuHarp......President and Superintendent. the city. . JOHN SHARP, JR...-s00 ...General Passenger Agent. There are a great many hotels in Salt |J. W. Fox......2....-....ss1s000-- 1... Bngineer. Lake City, but the principal ones arethe| This road is practically a continuation Walker, Townsend, White, Cliff, Valley, | of the Utah Central. It was commenced and the Salt Lake House. May ist, 1871, and built thirteen miles We have to record one ¢mportant innova- | during the year, to Sandy, and then ex- tzon that has recently been introduced into tended, from time to time, until, at this | the hotel business in Utah. Yes, and we|time, March ist, 1878, it is completed 75 will give you a picture of the house that | miles south, to the terminus. originated it. The cars start from the same depot as | The © good, old-fashioned way” of imparting | ‘2¢ Central. knowledge to dull pupils—By rule, paddling it in | We will step on board, and roll south- through the pores of the skin. ward along through the city—passing fine AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. residences, beautiful gardens, thrifty or- chards, and well-cultivated fields, with the Jordan River on our right, the Oquirrh range of mountains far in the distance, and the towering Wasatch Mountains on our left; this is Jordan Valley. This val- ley extends from Salt Lake City, south, to Utah Lake, about 40 miles distant, with a varying width of from two to twelve miles. About five miles south, on the left, is situated the Morgan Smelting Works, on the creek that comes down from Big Cot- tonwood, and opposite Parley Canyon, which can be seen on the east, just below the mouth of which is located the State Penitentiary, and the Utah Woolen Mill. Crossing the creek, and passing on seven miles from the city, we come to LirrLe Corronwoop—the first station. On the left are the Wasatch Smelting Works, and a little beyond the American Smelting Works. Just after crossing the Little Cottonwood Creek, on the right, is the big Germania Smelting and Refining Works, with the town of Germania, con- taining 500 inhabitants. Passing along, on the right, can be seen great piles of silver ore—‘ matte ” as it is called. From this point the mountain view is ec to the eastward, the canyons of arley, Mill Creek, Big and Little Cotton- wood, and Dry Creek, are all in view. The country here shows what irriga- tion is doing for it; there can be no finer lands or crops than are here found. In every direction the land is covered with a labyrinth of canals and ditches, conduct- ing the essence of life to all vegetation be- neath them, and literally causing the land to flow with “ milk and honey.” Five miles further we come to JUNCTION—a small station, where all passengers for West Mountain, Bingham Canyon Mines, and the vicinity, “ change cars ’’ for those of the Bingham Canyon Railroad. Official Headquarters, Salt Lake City. C. W. SCHOFIELD............000 ceeeee President. Ezra Hompurey...Treasurer & Superintendent. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, completed to the mouth of Bingham Can- on, 16 miles west, and had cars running ecember Ist, 1878. Let us take a roll over it. Leaving the junction, our course is due west, through a well-cultivated section of country. 127 JORDAN Srarion—is one mile distant, where there is a postoffice,and a small | collection of cottages. Near by, a track leads off to the Old Telegraph Smelter, the dressing works of which are a short distance below the road, on the opposite ‘side of the Jordan River, which we cross soon after leaving the station. Just as we raise on to the west bank of the Jordan, we come to the residence of Bishop Gardner, who is the “ better half” of eleven wives. The Bishop appears to stand it pretty well, ne they do say that he is occasionally found singing, “On Jordan’s stormy banks I stand,” with a tear accompaniment. West JoRDAN—is on the west bank of the river and contains a few hundred peo- ple. From this station, the grade in- creases, and soon we reach a high table- land, too high for irrigation by ditches, without great expense. Bunchgrass, white sage, sheep, some cattle,and Jack-rabbits abound—the latter are very numerous. The road, about five miles from the river, enters the long, broad ravine that leads to Bingham, up which we roll—the | ravine gradually becoming narrower as we ascend. Occasionally we pass a little farm-house, and a few acres of farm and garden land. Nearing the mountains, the ravine narrows, to a few hundred feet, and finally to only sufficient room for the rail- road and a little creek, between the blufis on each side. These bluffs are from 250 to 1,000 feet in height, covered with small stone, sage, and a few small pine trees. As we ascend, the bluffs are more pre- cipitous, higher and pierced in numerous places with “prospect holes.’ In places the grade is 120 feet, and then, MORE, and finaily it becomes too much for our iron horse, and we stop at the end of the steam road, one mile below BiIneHAaM CrtTy—population about 2,000. Just below the city is located on the left, the Winnemucca mill and mine. We know it is there, as we “ prospected ”? it once—about 30 feet. Bingham City is built along the canyon for two miles, and contains a number of mills and works connected with mining. From the station, a tramway up which small ore cars are hauled with mules, extends up the canyon. for three mules, with a branch running back from about half the distance up to a mine on the top of the mountain, about one and a half miles 128 CROFUTI’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST further, making of tramway 41¢ miles; whole length of road 2014 miles. The tramway is built on the south side of the canyon, away up on the side of the mountain. fine view of the canyon, Bingham, the mines and mills in the neighboring ravines and on the opposite mountain side, and the miners atthe bottom ofthe canyon, working over the old “placer diggings.” At the end of this tramway is located the old Telegraph mine, one of the richest in the Territory, from which over 200 tons o ore a day is shipped, down over the tram and railroad to the smelters in the valley. The cars are hauled up by mules, and low- | ered down tothe “iron horse” below Bing- ham by the car brakes. The mines are numerous in and around Bingham, but we have not the space for a description of them, but will return to the | junction on the Utah Southern, and one mile further arrive at Sanpy—This station is 13 miles south of Salt Lake City, and one of considerable im- portance. | At Sandy is to be seen immense quanti- | ties of ore—ore in sacks, ore loose by the car load, ore in warehouses 500 feet long, with a train unloading on one side and an- other loading on the other; in fact, this is the greatest shipping, smelting and sam- pling point in all Utah. At Sandy are three sampling works, and | twosmelting works, and a lively town of 700 inhabitants, the greater portion em- ployed in the handling and manipulation of ores. Here we find another railroad branching off; this time itis the Wasatch & Jordan Walley. Principal offices at Salt Lake City. GC. W.. SGHOPTBIAD...... nna - cen encin sere President. Ezra Humpueey.... Treas. and Superintendent. This road isa threefoot narrow-gauge, 16 miles in length, running to Alta, at the head of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Itis operated by narrow gauge steam engines for 8.5 miles, and the other 7.5 by broad gauge mules. The road was commenced | in 1870, finished to Wasatch in 1872, and to Alta in 1876. Letus take a trip over it and note a few of the sights. From Sandy the train runs north a short distance, and then turnsto the east, directly for the Wasatch Mountains, leaving the old Flagstaff smelter on the left-hand side of the track, just above the station. The grade is heavy, the soil is stony, and cov- From the cars can be had a ered more orless with sage-brush, and traversed by irrigating ditches conveying the water toa more productive and less stony soil below. Nearing the mountains, about six miles from Sandy, we come to a deep gorge on the left, through which Little Cottonwood Creek has worn its way tothe valley. From this point we bear away to the southward around a low butte, then turn again to the east and northward and run along on an elevated plateau where a most beautiful f| view can be had. On the west, the Jordan Valley, in all its magnificent shades of green and gold, is at our feet, with the brown old mountains bordering the hori- zon in the distance. To the north, fifteen miles away, over as beautiful asuccession of little streams, well-cultivated fields, white cottages, orchards and gardens, as are to be found within the same number of miles in this sce! Fig “Zion” in full view, embowered in green, with the dome of the monster Tabernacle glistening like some half-obscured “silver moon,” sinking at the mountain base; while far beyond, and more to the westward, lays the Great Salt Lake—a mysterious problem. Away to the south, is Utah Lake, looking like one large sheet of burnished silver, surrounded by a net-work of green and gold, while to the east looms up towering granite walls, cleftfrom summit to base, forming a nar- row gorge only sufficiently wide to allow our little road to be built beside a little rippling creek of crystal water. lling along, our train rounds the head of a ravine, through « deep cut, passes the old Davenport Smelting Works on the left, enters the mouth of the canyon be- tween great walls of ite, crosses and re- crosses the little creek, and soon stops at Wasatcu—the end of the steam road, 8.5 miles from Sandy Junction. This isa smal! station with postoffice, store, and a few dwellings ee a population of about 100, more than half of whom are en- gaged in the stone quarries on the north side of the station. At Wasatch all the granite is got out and shaped for the Temple in Salt Lake City. The stone is the best yet discovered in the Territory, being of close, fine grain, of light gray color, and of beautiful birds-eye appearance. The granite on the south side appears much darker than that on the north side of the canyon. From almost every nook and crevice of these mountain cliffs—from the station away j | Page, Dnasalsdaked Alta, AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 129 up the canyon—grow small pines, cedars, ferns, and mosses, which, in connection with the gray walls, snow-capped moun- tains, glistening waterfalls, pure air and golden sun, presents a picture of rare beauty. Just above, on the left of the station, away up on a projecting cliff, 1,000 feet above the road, stands a ite column which measures 6624 feet in height, from the pedestal-like cliff on which it stands. On each side of this column, and recedin from its base, is a little grotto-park, fille with nature’s evergreens, and surrounded on three sides and on the top with rocks of every size and shape. Finding that this granite column has had no name, we name it “Humphry’s Peak,” in honor of the very gentlemanly superintendent of the road. At Wasatch we “change cars,” taking those of about the size of an ordinary hand-car, fitted up with seats that will com- fortably accommodate about nine persons, besides the knight of the whip—who chir- rups the “ broad gauge mules.” About a half-mile above the station we enter the snow-sheds, which will continue for seven miles, to the end of the track at Avura—asmall mining town, at the head of little Cottonwood Canyon. The end of the track is on the side of the mountain about 200 feet above the town of Alta, and about 500 feet below the mouth of the cele. brated Emma Mine, which is a little fur- ther to the east, and opposite the Flagstaff Mine, which is about the same height above the road. The town of Alta is at the bottom of the canyon 200 feet lower than the end of the railroad surrounded with mountain peaks, which are covered with snow eight months of the year, and at all times surrounded with an eternal mantle of evergreen. It contains about 500 population, all of whom are engaged in mining and kindred pursuits. There are several stores, express, telegraph, and postoffice, besides several | small hotels, chief of which is the Adolph. To the north, over the mountain two | milesis the Big Cottonwood Canyon; to the south, three miles, is the Miller Mine, and American Fork Canyon; Forest ord is four miles. Three miles east by trail is Crystal Lake, a beautiful sheet of water —the angler’s paradise. The principal mines near Alta are, the Emma, Flagstaff, ey Nabob, Kate aramie, Prince of Wales, and 1,800 others, located within five miles. The business of the railroad is the transportation of ores and supplies to.and from the mines. Hundreds of cars | are loaded daily with ore that is taken to the valley to be smelted or are sent to San Francisco, the East, or to Sw Wales. For novel methods of hauling ore to the depot, see ANNEX No. 24. The sheds over the railroad are seven miles in length, and are made in various styles of architecture, more for business than beauty, the style being adopted accord- ing tocircumstances. They are, however, in all places constructed of heavy material, rocks, round or sawed timber, and built in the most substantial manner. In one place they are in the shape of a letter A, sharp | peaked; in other places, nearly upright on each side, one side higher than the other, with asloping roof. Again the lower hill- side is built with a little slope toward the up hill side, and long heavy timbers from the top of these uprights slope up onto the mountain side, resting on a solid granite foundation leveled to a uniform grade, for that purpose. Where the latter plan has been adopted, there is danger of snow-slides which are more likely to occur, in fact, have occurred a number of times since the sheds were von- structed, and each time, the snow and rocks passed over the shed into the canyon below, without causing onecent’s worth of damage to the road or shed. Thelength of this road, where it is oper- ated with mules, is seven miles long. As before stated, the grade is 600 feet to the mile; the curves are in places 80 degrees, and not, as once stated in the “ Radhoay Age,” 30 curves and 600 foot gauge. But we suppose that Col. Bridges, when he wrote that, was thinking about those “broad gauge mules.” Returning, the mule power that took us up is no longer in demand; the knight of the whip now mansthe brakes, and away we go around the Age’s 30 curves, to the valley below, “change cars” at Sandy, and are once more headed for the south, on the Utah Southern railroad. A short distance south, we passthe McIntosh Sampling mill, on the west and another on the east. Sampling is testing such ores as are pre- sented in quantities sufficient to enable the sampling company to give certificates of their value, and then the ore is sold at the certificate rates. One mile further is the Mingo Smelter of the Penn. Lead Co. | ing those livi: 130 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST The land is more rolling, as we approach DrarEer—tThis is not a very im station to the tourist, but to the few vil- lagers of Herramon, at the mouth of a little canyon beside the mountains on the left, itis adig institution. Draper is four miles | from Sandy and seventeen from Salt Lake City. Contec Draper, our course is east. and after crossing South Willow Creek, turns more to the south, and finally to the west, having kept around the foot of the moun- tains, which here make a full halfcircle. In the distance around, there are many cuts and some hard work, and we queried, wh the road was built around, when the work was so heavy and the distance much further than across where there was very little work to be done? In answer, we were told that President Brigham Young laid out the road around the side of the moun- tain, by “revelation.” If that isso, we con-| clude that the revelation came from the same “deity” that took our Savior up on) the Mount, but as it is not “our funeral,” we will not criticise. The lower point of the great curve is called the “Point of theMountain.” At the | point where the railroad is built around, the track is about 300 feet above a little round valley to the west, in which is lo- cated a hot spring, marked by a brown burned patch of land and rising steam. As our train curves around this point, a most charming view can be had; one of the jimest on the road. The valley is here nearer, to the northward the view in unob- structed for 50 miles; to the south, Utah Lake, a gem in rich setting, and the great Lower Basins. Passing through numerous cuts and around the point, the train curves again to the eastward, and starts again on another grand curve around the rim of the basin, in which is located Utah Lake, in plain view. Nearly opposite the “ point of the moun- tain” is a low divide in the Oquirrh Range on the west, over which the road leads to Camp Floyd. Continuing along through sand cuts, sage and an occasional farm, 14 miles from Draper we arrive at Lzni—This town is situated in the midst of aperfect forest of fruit trees, orchards and ardens, with the waters of Dry Oanyon reek running through all the streets, and contains a population of about 1,500, includ- in the immediate vicinity. The good results of irrigating sage-brush land, are here demonstrated by the large crops of wheat, oats, barley and vegetables produced, where, before the land was irri- gated, nothing -but sage-brush and grease- wood were to be seen. Three miles further is AmERICAN FoRK—a station 34 miles from Salt Lake City—the “ banner ” town for free schools; also the first in the Terri- tory, having been established here in 1869. The streets are wide, with the waters of Deer Creek, which comes down the Amer- ican Fork Canyon, running through them, and the ore s, gardens and farms in the neighborhood ing an attractive and | beautiful town. The population numbers about 1,600, the greater portion of whom | are engaged in agricultural pursuits. The American Fork House, opposite the sta- tion, is the principal hotel, and Robert — 9 eau is one of the jolliest of German osts To the southwest = : = ae @ com- pan sage in building a dam across the Jordan River for irrigating purposes. The canal is to be 22 feet wide on the bot- tom and 30 inches deep, and when comple- ted will extend north 20 miles, winding around the base of the Wasatch, near our road, keeping as far up on the side of the mountain as possible. From the dam, a ca- nal will be taken out forthe west side ofthe Jordan, with a view of taking the water all over the lands as far north as Salt Lake City, and if possible, reclaim the vast tract of sage land between the Jordan River at Salt Lake City, and the Oquirrh Range, at the foot of Salt Lake. From this station a road branches off to the eastward, up American Fork Canyon, called the American Fork Bailroad. Principal office, Salt Lake City. Gan. LOYD ASPINWALL. ...0...0..0.0005 President. Ezra HUMPHREY....... See. and Superintendent. This is a three-foot, narrow gauge rail- road, 15 miles in length; commenced May, 1872, and completed 12 miles during the year. The grade for the whole distance is heavy, in places 312 feet to the mile. Leaving the station at American Fork, the road turns directly to the east, and fol- lows up Deer Creek, through a general as- sortment of sage brush, sand and boulders, for six miles to the mouth of the Canyon. On the way up, to the right, a fine view can be had of Mt. Aspinwall, rising from the lower range of the Wasatch to an alti- aaa AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. esac anon ohne naan nasi sin nner THE LATE BRIGHAM YOUNG’S RESIDENCE. tude of 11,011 feet above the sea. From the mouth of the canyon, about two miles north, is the little village of Al- pine, containing about 250 agriculturalists. Entering the canyon, the passage is quite narrow between the towering cliffs, which rise up in sharp peaks 600 feet in height, leaving only about 100 feet be- tween, through which the road is built, aad a sparkling little stream comes rip- pling down, the road, on its way up, cross- Pa re-crossing the stream many times. ur train is rapidly climbing, but the canyon walls seem to be much more rap- idly rising, and ata distance of. one, two and three miles, gain an additional 500 feet, until, in places, they are full 2,500 feet above the road bed. In places these cliffs are pillared and castelated granite, in others, of slate, shale and conglomerate, seamed in places as though built up from the bed of the canyon by successive layers, some as thin as a knife blade, others much thicker; then again, the rocks have the appearance of iron slag, or dark colored ‘ lava suddenly cooled, presenting to the eye every conceivable angle and fan- tastic shape—a continuous, ever-changing panorama. Imagine, then, this canyon with its grottoes, amphitheatres, and its towering crags, peaks, and needle-pointed rocks, tow- ering far above the road, overhanging it in places, with patches of eternal snow in the gloomy gorges near the summit, and clothed at all times in a mantle of green, the pine, spruce and cedar trees growing in all the nooks and gulches and away upon the sum- mit; then countless mosses and ferns cling- ing to each crevice and seam where a foot- hold can be secured, her with the mil- lions of flowers of ST ue; where thesun’s rays are sifted through countless objects on their way to-the silvery, sparkling stream below, with its miniature cascades and ed- dies. Wesay imagine all these things, and then you will only have a faint outline of inten cao tc tt cit ha aaa a ap Nat ate RC TENT the wild and romantic, picturesque and | glorious American Fork Canyon. Proceeding on up, up, around sharp crags, under the very overhanging moun- tains, we pass “ Lion Rock” on the right, and “'Telescope Peak ” on the left. In the top of the latter is a round aperture, | through which the sky beyond can_ be plainly seen; this hole is called the “ Dev- . il’s Eye.” About three miles from the mouth of the | canyon, on the left, we come to Hanging Rock. (See illustration page 29.) Close | above, on the same side, is a very large | spring, and almost immediately opposite | “Sled-runner Curve ;—an inverted vein of | rock in the side of the perpendicular cliff, resembling a sled-runner—possibly this is the Devil’s sled-runner ; who knows? Along 132 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST here the rock seams are badly mixed, and; Pieasant GrovE— properly named. run at all ee ee longitudinal and “through other.” Half-a-mile further we come to “ Rainbow Clift,” on the right; opposite, a narrow peak rises sharp, like a ife-blade, 300 feet; a little further | on to theright, comes in the South Fork, on which are located several saw-mills. Keeping to the left, and soon after pass- ing the South Fork,a look back down this wonderful canyon affords one of the dest of views; we cannot describe it, ut will have it engraved for future vol- umes. One mile further, and the train stops at the end of the track, at Derr CrEEK—Near this station, the hills are bare of trees, but covered with shrubs of different kinds, in which sage and moss predominate; the gulches and ravines bear stunted pine and aspen trees. The chief business of this road is in connection with the mines above, — which are the Smelter’s Sultana, Wil Dutchman, Treasure, and Pittsburgh. The Miller Smelting Works are four miles fur- ther up and the mines seven. Charcoal in large quantities is burned near by and taken to the smelting works. There are ten Bee-hive kilns at the station, and fifteen more four miles further up. The yield is 3,000 bushels per month for each 60 cords of wood. Each kiln has a capacity of 20 cords, and is filled and burned threetimes each month. The price obtained is 14c. per bushel. Bishop Mc- Allister is the jolly chief in charge. Opposite the station, in a Cosy little nook, is located the Mountain Glen ‘House, Where the tourist will find his wants an- ticipated, and plans can be matured for a ramble over these mountain peaks; and there are a number of little tours that can be made from this pointeach day that will well pay for a week’s time devoted to this locality. Returning to the valley, our engine is dispensed with, and only the brakes are used. Then it is that the view is most grand, and the ride one beyond the pow- ers of man with his best goose-quill to describe. Make the tour of the American Fork, and our word for it, it will live in pleasant memory while the sun of life de- scends upon a ripe old age. At American Fork ee again en- ter the cars on the Utah Southern, and start once more for the south. Three miles brings our train to In early days it was known as “ Battle Creek”—so-called from a fight the earl; settlers once had here with the Utes. It is a thriving place of 1,000 inhabitants, and like all other Mormon towns, is surrounded with orchards and gardens of fruit, with water flowing through every street. Herds of cattle are now to be seen grazing on the surrounding hills. Eleven miles around, on the rim of the basin, across some e and some well- cultivated land, our train stops at Provo—This isaregularly incorporated city, with all the requisite municipal offi- cers ; is also the county seat of Utah county, which was first settled in 1849. Provo is 48 miles south of Salt Lake City, at the mouth of Provo-Canyon, and on the east bank of Utah Lake, and con- | tains an increasing population of 4,000. This place has several fine hotels, chief of which is the Excelsior House. The Hn- quérer, isa weekly paper published here. he courthouse and public buildings of the city are very good, and all kinds of business is represented here. The princi- pal manufactories are the Provo Woolen to three flouring mills, and three saw- mills. Provo River, which is formed by nu- merous small streams, to the eastward, af- fords the best water power of any stream in Utah. The woolen mill is a noted feature of the city; the buildings number four, are built of stone, four stories high, and cost, complete, ready for business, $210,000. There are inthe mill four “mules” with 3,240 spindles, machinery for carding, dyeing and preparing 2,000 pounds of wool per day, and 215 looms, which turn out superior fabrics, in amount exceeding $200,000 per annum. The Mormons have a very capacious tabernacle, and the Methodists a fine church, and schools are ample. The Brig- ham Young Academy is located here, which was amply endowed by President Brigham Young some years before his death. A regular stage leaves for Provo Valley, 20 miles distant, to the eastward, on ar: rival of trains. Uran Laxr—is a body of fresh water, 30 miles in length and about six miles in width; is fed by Provo River, American Fork, Spanish Fork, Hobble, Salt and Peteetweet Creeks — having its outlet | from a warm spring which flows from simatic anit SAAN sa | arrive at AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 183 through Jordan River, which runs north and empties into Great Salt Lake. Utah Lake abounds in trout, mullet and chubs. Passing along, through a well-cultivated section of country, for five miles,we arrive at SPRINGVILLE—This place was named Sanraquin—which is a very important point. It contains a population of about 2,000, and is a point from which all pas- sengers, mails, express and freight, leave for the Tintic mining regions, to the west- ward. Here, too, will be found stage lines for the different mining towns and camps. To Goshen the distance is six miles; Diamond City, 18 miles; Silver City, 16 miles; and Eureka, 21 miles. he Tintic district furnished at this sta- tion, in 1877, 20,000,000 pounds of hema- tite iron ore for shipment to the different smelting furnaces to the northward, for a flux in the manipulation of ores. Four miles further, through a rather un- inviting — and our train stops, at the end of the track, at Yorx—This station is '75 miles south of Salt Lake City. Stages leave here daily, on the arrival of trains for Nephi, 16 miles; Filmore, 18 miles; Diamond, 18 miles; Beaver, 140 miles; Pioche, 260 miles; St. George, 278 miles—and to all intermediate | points. Great numbers of wagons are loaded at this place with freight for the various mining regions to the West, South, and East. To the south, rises Mount Nebo, with his cap of snow to an altitude of 12,000 feet. Hobble Creek Canyon, above the town. The water from this spring is utilized for running a flouring mill, whereby the mill is enabled to run at all seasons of the year. So much for a hot spring. Coal of good coking quality has been discovered and worked about 40 miles to the eastward, in Strawberry Valley, and a movement is now being made towards the construction of another narrow gauge rail- road to the mines. The population here is about 1,500. Hobble Creek Canyon on the east, was so named by the first Mor- mons that visited it in 1847, who found in the canyon a set of old Spanish hobbles. Rolling along for five miles further through well-cultivated land we arrive at SPANISH Fork—a village of 1,800 popu- lation, most of whom are engaged in agri- cultural and pastoral pursuits. The town is to the left of the road on the banks of Spanish Fork River. Butter and cheese are quite a specialty with many of the citizens; on the table- lands vineyards are numerous, and wine is made to some extent; wheat is also a good crop. Duck shooting is said to be exceed- ingly fine, and trout are found in great num- bers in all the mountain streams, as well Returning to “Zion,” our course will now be over the Utah Western Railroad, : General offices at Salt Lake City. as in the lake. ‘ SOW. RG eosin a President. Continuing on through rich farm land, | H. P. Kimatn................04- Superintendent. eight miles brings our train to Avson—This is an incorporated city of about 2,200 population, situated to the left of the road, and near the southern end of Utah Lake. The people appear to be well- to-do, and do not trouble themselves much about the “ war in Europe,” or the “Chi- nese question.” Large quantities of ore are hauled here for shipment to the smelt- ing furnaces at Sandy and other places. Three miles further, and two and a half miles eastward, is a beautiful little place |; called Spring Lake Villa, nestling cosily in beside the mountain and a little lakelet of similar name. This villa is noted for its abundant and superior fruit of various kinds, where is located a large canning establishment. Five milesfurther, through less valuable lands than those to the northward, and we This road is a three-foot narrow gauge commenced in 1874, and was completed EAGLE GATE. | 134 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST | for twelve miles during the year. In 1875, | about thirteen miles more were finished, and in 1877 it was extended to within two miles of Stockton, 37.5 miles from Salt Lake City, The depot in Salt Lake City is located - one-half mile west of the Utah Central, on ’ the same street. We will take arun out | over this road and note the result. The route is due west, crossing the Jor- dan River the first mile, about one-half ' mile south of the wagon-road bridge, , thence twelve miles to the Hot Springs, at ' the northeast point of the Oquirrh, Moun- | tains. This twelve miles is built across | thelevel bottom land, the greater portion ' of which is covered with sage-brush and | “punch” and alkali grasses. ood, with an occasional patch of ase-w Eh The soil in | most parts is a black vegetable mould with ' amixture of fine sand. Some sand beds ; are noticeable, and near the Hot Springs a. wa ie ia li si | mountain, deposit of alkali with some yellow clay. The railroad crosses several times on the route the old California wagon road of bygone days. is bottom now, except to a limited ex- tent near the water, is used for grazing purposes. The whole length of this land is about 50 miles, of which the first 15 is 10 miles average width, the balance averaging five miles wide, and extending to Utah Lake on the south, and when properly irrigated—as we have heretofore noted, a plannow being carried out for so doing—it will be as pro- ductive as the same number of acres in the valley of the famous River Nile, in Egypt. Large herds of cattle and sheep are now to be seen on the bottom, as well as jack rabbits by the legion. Near the hot springs, on the left, notice- able from the amount of steam rising, and the brown, burned appearance of the ground, are some comfortable little farm-houses, and a few good, oS farms. The hot springsspoken of are fresh, and produce a large creek of water. Near, are several store-houses, and the station called Mrinuistone—so named from the fact that at this point the first millstones were quar- ried in the Territory. There are no ac- commodations at present, near, for tourists to stop over. Proceeding along, around the side of the our train gradually approaches the lake, and five miles from Millstone, we are at Buiack Rocx—tThis station derives its name from a black-looking rock, sitting out in the lake, about 300 feet distant and 50 feet in height, just after passing a high, rocky cliff on the edge of the Lake. Near the station is Lion’s Head Rock, and the highest point is known as Observa- tion Point, so named from the unobstructed view of the surrounding country, which can be had from itssummit. Antelope, or Church Island, to the northeast, is 14 miles distant, Kimball’s 22 miles; Goose Creek Mountains, 100 miles northwest; West Mountain, 15 miles west; Oquirrh, close to the south, while the view to the south- west extends to the great rim of the basin, 17 miles distant. On Church Island, large herds of cattle range, and some mines of gold, slate and copper have been discovered. On Car- rington Island, opposite Black Rock, a slate mine of good quality has been discovered, which has been traced 4,500 feet. Opposite the station, away up in the side of the mountain, is the “Grant’s CavE”’—an opening extending several hundred feet into the mountain side, with a ceiling ranging in height from ten to 75 feet, from which hang stelactites of great beauty and brilliancy. Remains of some of the ancient tribes of Indians, it is said, are still to be found scattered around the floor of the cave. The presence of these re- mains is explained by a tradition among the Indians to the effect that “many hun- dred years ago, two tribes of Indians were at war with each other, and that the weaker party was forced to take refuge in the cave, but were followed by the enemy, who closed the entrance with huge boulders, forming an impenetrable barrier to their escape ’*—and thus their place of refuge became their grave. Leaving Black Rock, our train skirts the lake for a distance of three miles, and stops at Lake Pornt—twenty miles from Salt Lake City. Here the traveler will find ample accommodation at the “Short Branch Hotel,” and the steamer “ General Garfield,” Cap. Darres, ready to explore the mysteries of the famous “ Dead Sea,” Great Salt Lake. This arrangement af- fords the first opportunity ever offered to travelers to behold the marvelous grandeur with which this inland sea abounds, of which Von Humboldt sotruly said, “ Here is the beauty and grandeur of Como and Killarney combined.” For the last two seasons, Lake Point has AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 135 been a great resort for picnic parties, | of the town is principally agriculture and from Zion, who come out, take a trip over | fruit raising. It is considered the best the lake and to the islands, have a swim in| fruit and vegetable district in the Terri- the lake and aramble up onto the moun- tains, “ make a day of it,” and return to the city in the evening. Bath houses are pro- vided for those who prefer them, and every accommodation provided to make those who visit Lake Point feel satisfied and happy. | ; Game in the mountains and on the plains, such as deer, antelope, bears and smaller game are to be had for the neces- sary effort; ducks are abundant six miles to the eastward, and fish nary one. The mountains are about 1,000 feet above the road, and eng have rounded peaks, covered with small trees, in places, sage and grass in others, and large timber in the inaccessible gulches and ravines, near the summit. Leaving the Point, our course is more to the southward, along the side of the lake, by a few well-cultivated farms, where water is had from the mountain on the left in sufficient quantities for irrigating them. Two miles south, on the left, is “Dobey Rock,” a high, isolated rock on elevated ground ; so named after an old Indian, who was buried near. Turning more to the left, and drawing to iodo is the county seat of Tooele county; population, about 2,000. Alon: the base of the mountain the land is irr- gated from the little springs and creeks, which seldom find their way to the lake below. About ten miles over the moun- tain, to the southeast, is located Brigham _ Leaving Tooele, sage and small cedar trees abound, together with a fine, silken bunch-grass; herds of cattle and sheep are numerous. The road ison a high plateau, curving with the mountain more to the westward, lake. As we near the lower portion to the great valley, which lays on our right, the land rises, rim-like, and a few hundred yards below the end of the track, rises 500 feet, completely locking in the a by a mountain range or semi-circle extending in a great arch from the Oquirrh Range, on the east, to meet the range on the west, in one great bend, full two miles in curvature. the railroad—and where the terminus mustremain for sometime. On the south away from the lake, the road follows along | side of thiscurve, which, on the top, is less afew miles from the base of the moun-|than one-half a mile in width, is located tains, beside which is located the small | the city of Mormon village of “E.T. City”—named| Srocxron—two miles distant from the after E. T. Bensen, one of the early settlers. | end of the railroad. To reach Stockton Four and a half miles from the “Point” |the Railroad Company must tunnel comes the through the rim, 1,000 feet, exclusive of Haur-way Hovusz—Near are a flouring | cuts, at each approach. and a woolen mill, On the opposite side| Stockton is now reached by stage, of the valley, to the west, is the town of | which also extends its route to Dry Can- Grantsville, eight miles distant. It is sit-| yon, and the Ophir mining districts to the uated in one of the richest agricultural| south and west. From Stockton to Dry sections of the State; population, 2,000. Canyon, southeast, it is twelve miles; to In the background is the West Mountain | Ophir, to the southeast, ten miles; from Range, which rears its peaks full 2,000 | Stockton to Salt Lake 39.5 miles. feet above the town,and in which arelo-| Stockton is in Tooele county, in the cated some very rich silver mines. Be-| northeast corner of Rush Valley, and about yond these mountains is Scull Valley—so | one-half mile east of Rush Lake—a sheet named from an Indian fight which once | of fresh water, two miles long and a half occurred there, after which the ground was|a mile wide. The town contains three left covered with bones. smelting furnaces, several stores, hotels, Passing on, to the left, note the water-| saloons, and about 80 dwelling houses, lines on the side of the mountain. with a popaledion mine in the sur- TooELE StatTron—is six miles from the | roundings for two miles—of 600. last, and is the one nearest the thriving| The Waterman Furnace is on a slope of town of Tooele, which is situated to the | the mountain, close in_the eastern edge of left about two miles, close in beside the | the town; the Jacob’s Smelter about a half mountain. The business of the citizens|a mile west, at the head of the lake, | in the mountain gorges, the waters of | and some miles below the lowerend ofthe | Here, at the base of this rim, terminates | cin tel orice asinine aah a anise SIAH AEN, 136 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST and the Chicago Smelter about one mile marked by the red-burnt soil, much re- to the southwest, on the eastern bank of | sembling a yard, where hides are tanned. the lake. The ores used at these smelters) From the carsan occasional glimps of come from the several mining districts in Salt Lake can be obtained, with its nu- the vicinity to the east, south and west. merous islands, lifting their peaks far The huge piles of bullion at the depot | far above the briny waters. The views piled up, awaiting shipment, attest the business of the place. Rush Valley, in the northern portion of which is Rush lake, is one of the class of valleys so often found in the Salt Lake and Nevada Basins—only varying in size. This is ten miles in length, and about three in width—land-locked, surrounded by mountain ranges, with a lake in the center and no visible outlet. Returning to Salt Lake, “changecars” for Ogden, and again we take a look at | the Great Overland trains. But we can- not think of neglecting to take a trip over the little Utah Northern Railroad. Principal office, Logan, Utah. i, M, BAGRRTT. 0. out scan sdsenesgs%ace President. G. W. THATOHER. 2... .-euececcsds Superi: . Moats THATCHER... ....-200csceeceucs Secretary. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge; commenced March 29th, 1872, and ex- tended at different times, and completed to Franklin, 80 miles, in 1874. Work is now progressing, and within the present year it is designed to have it completed to Old Fort Hall, on Snake River, 100 miles further —making in all180 miles. The depot is about halfa mile to the northeast of the depot of the Union and Central—and that much nearer the city of Ogden. Leaving the depot, the road skirts the western edge of the city, across rich, broad, and well-cultivated fields, orchards and gardens, with the Wasatch Moun- tains towering to the right. From Ogden, it is 4.5 miles to HARRISVILLE — an unimportant side- track—and a short distance further, at the foot of a spur of the mountains, is one of the many hot springs which abound in the Great Salt Lake and Nevada basins. The springs in cold weather send upa dense cloud of vapor, which is visible for a long distance. They are strongly im- pregnated with sulphur and other mineral substances. The odor arising from them is very strong, and by no means pleasant for some people to inhale. This springis close on the right of the road, and besides the steam continually arising from it, is will be very imperfect; but as we near Promontory Point, and after leaving that place, excellent views can be obtained. On the left, only a few hundred yards away, can be seen the track of the Cen- tral Pacific—and near,the unimportant station of Bonneville on that road. Near are some fine farming lands, which yield large crops of wheat, barley and corn. ith the rugged mountains on our right and the waters of the lake seen at times on our left, we find objects of interest con- tinually rising around us Far up the sides of the mountain, stretching along in one unbroken line, save where it is sun- dered by canyons, gulches, and ravines, is the old watermark of the ancient lake, showing that at one time this lake was a mighty sea, washing the mountain sides sev- eral hundred feet above us. Theold water- line is no creation of the imagination, but a broad bench, whereupon the well-worn rocks, the rounded pebbles, and marine shells still attest the fact that once the wa- ters of the lake washed this broad upland. Beneath the highest and largest bench, at various places, may be seen two others, at about equal distances apart, showing that the waters of the lake have had three dif- ferent altitudes before they reached their present level. We are gradually rising up on to a high bench and will continue along near the base of the mountains for the next thirt miles. In places the view will be grand. The Great Lake at the southwest with its numerous islands in the distance, the well- cultivated fields in the foreground, together with the orchards and rippling rills from the mountain springs, which we cross every few minutes, make a beautiful picture; then back of all, on the east, rises the Wa- satch, peak upon peak, towering to the skies. From the last station it is 14 miles to WiiiarD—This is a quiet Mormon town of 700 inhabitants, and contains some fine buildings, but the greater portion are built of logs and adobe, yet neat and cosy. Most of the fences are of small willows inter- woven through large willow stakes stuck in the ground. The mountains near this town present indications which would as. @ LIMITED FACULTY &ND GETTER TEACHING.” MEDICAL COLLRGE AND HOSPITAL, OF CHICAGO. (Chartered ty the State of Illinois in 1855.) The Great Homeopathic Clinical Schoot of the World. The Winter Session commences the first Tuesday in October, and closes the last Thursday in February. Clinical facilities unsurpassed... Material for dissection abundan:. Large, well lighted and comfortable rooms, PACU LI Ty’. A, E. SMALL, M. D., Professor of the Theory and Practice of Medicine, R. LUDLAM, M. D., Professor of the Medical and Surgical Diseases of Women, Odstetrics, and Clinical Midwifery. TEMPLE S. HOYNE, M. D., a of Materia Medica and Therapeutics, and Clinical Lecturer on Venereal and Skin Diseases. GEO. A. HALL, M. D., Professor of the Principles and ane of Surgery and Clinieal Surgery. “HARLAN P, COLE, M. D., Professor of General and Surgical Anatomy and Minor Surgery. W. J. HAWKES, M. D., : Prafessor of Physiology and Clinical Medicine. Cc. H. VILAS, M.D. Professor of Ophthalmology and Otology, with Clinical Surgery. Cc. GILBERT WHEELER, M. D., Professor of Chemistry and Toxicology. AUXSZILIARY CORPS. S. LEAVITT, M. D., Professor of Obstetric Anatomy and the Mechanisms of Labor. OH. N. BALDWIN, M.D, Professor of Physiological Anatomy. EEEes. For fall course of Lectures, including Matriculation.............. 2+... $55 00 Perpetual Tickets.... ....0.600 sscscch seccececvcesemecvesecs sone vouerne 90 00 Graduation Peer nes es cee ole noes elise on eieloeiielsein sieinie ie eieicis siele sie 25 00 The Spring Term commences on first Tuesday in March, every year, and continues ten weeks. For Catalogues and.other information, address, T. S. HOYNE, M.D., Registrar, 517 Wabash Ave., CHICAGO, ILL. TE RIVER, OREGON, (See Annex AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. sure the “ prospector” that they were rich | in various minerals. Strong evidences also exist of the great volcanic upheaval which once lit up this country with its lurid fires, | most effectualy demolishing many philo- sophical theories, leaving their origina- — to study nature more and books ess. Near the city, in the first range of hills, is the crater of an extinct volcano, which covers several acres. The masses of lava laying around, its bleak, barren, and deso- late appearance would seem to indicate that, comparatively speaking, not many years had elapsed since it was in active operation. Leaving Willard, our course is more to the left, with broad fields and some fine dwellings; then a strip of sage and alkali; and eight miles north we reach BriguamM—This is the county seat of Box Elder county, situated near the mouth of Box Elder and Wellsville Canyon. Like Willard, it nestles close under the ENTERING THE PALISADES OF THE HUMBOLDT. in fruit trees. Population, 1,800. The buildings are mostly of adobe. A thriving trade and rapidly increasing population attest the importance of the place. The public buildings include a court-house and tabernacle, two hotels, and no saloons. From Brigham our course is more to the left, following around the great arc of the mountains, as well as the old Montana stage road. Cau’s ForK—is eight miles from Brig- ham, and is a little collection of houses, close in beside the mountain on the right. All around this mountain base are, at intervals, springs—some are cold and some are very hot-water—well-cultivated fields and alkali beds, little lakes, and sage-brush knolls, rich soil and large crops; then occur barren waste and nary shrub. Two and a half miles further is HonrEYVILLE—Ah! here we have it! a dozen stone and adobe houses on a sage-brush honey. Bear River and valley | shadow of the Wasatch, and is embowered | is now on the left, as is also the city of Eta cay 138 CROFUTTY’S NEW OVERLAND TOURISI Corinne, about six miles distant to the south west. When this road was first built, a track extended to Corinne, which has in later years been taken up and abandoned, the “a I will never teil you. DEWEYVILLE is five miles further, around which, are some good farms and a rist mill. Curving around the point of he mountain and heading for the north, up Bear Valley, the e increases; sage is the rule, pines and cedars appear in the mountain gor. and up we climb. To the west on the opposite side of Bear River, about five miles above the station, is lo- cated a village of Shoshone Indians, about 100 in number. Their tepees—lodges—can be plainly seen. These Indians took up| this land in 1874, under the pre-emption laws of the United States, and abandoned their tribal relations. They own some pid ga herds of cattle and bands of horses, and are very quiet and peaceably disposed. Passing on up a heavy e through deep cuts for five miles and we ane at Hamprons—a regular eating station; good meals are served in a rustic way for 50 cents. Just before reaching this station, the road cuts through a spur of the mountain that juts out to the westward into the val- ley, leaving a high, isolated peak. Let us climb this peak and take a look. To the north, six miles the Bear River canyons through a low spur of the Wasatch which reaches away to the northwest. To the west of this spur lies the Malad Valley, and Malad River; the latter and the Bear come close together into the valley, imme- diately to the west of where we stand ; then ‘flow close together down the valley to the south parallel for ten miles before they unite, in some places not more than 20 feet apart. To the west of this valley rise the long range of the Malad Mountains, which, commencing near Corinne, runs nearly north to opposite this point, and then bears away to the northwest. Neither the Bear nor Malad valleys, both in sight, are cultivated; cattle and sheep are the only signs of life noticeable. Leaving Hampton, our road is up a 100 foot grade, curving around to raise the spur of the Wasatch above alluded to, through which Bear River canyons a few miles to the northward. Finally the Summir—is reached and passed four miles from Hampton and we curve to the | east and then to the south, around the nar- row spur alluded to, which separated Bear Valley from Cache Valley. From the Summit we have been rapidly descending into Cache Valley, which is on our left, and is one of the most productive in Utah Territory. The valley heads in tho Wasatch Mountains, northeast of Ogden, and is 40 miles long with an average width of six miles, to where it intersects Marsh Valley on the north, five miles dis- tant. The Logan River runs through the lower portion of this valley, and is com- posed of the Little Bear, Blacksmith Fork, and Logan creeks, making a stream of ample volume to irrigate all the land in the valley, much of which is yet open for pre-emption. In an ordinary season the shipments from this valley ave 500 car-loads of wheat, 200 car-loads of oats, and 100 car- loads of potatoes, most of which go to California. Wheat often yields 50 bushels to the acre. MeEnpon—is the first station from the Summit, 5.5 miles distant, on the west side of the valley, and contains about 700 population. From Mendon our course is due east to Logan, across the valley, which runs north and south, but before we start, let us note the towns situated on the arc, around the upper portion of the valley. The first is Wellsville, six miles south, on the west side, population 1,300. Paradise comes next, with a population of 500. Continu- ing around to the east and then north, is Hyrum, population 1,400. Next comes Millville, population 600; and then Provi- dence, population 550. This latter village is the first south of Logan. Looking north from Mendon, northeast of the point where we crossed the ridge at Summit, and eight miles from Mendon, is located the village of Newton, population 300; three miles further is Clarkston, pop- ulation 500; next six miles is Weston, pop- ulation 500; next is Clifton, ten miles, pop- ulation 300; then Oxford, seven miles, pop- ulation 250, These are all Mormon vil- lages, are all surrounded with well-culti- vated lands, orchards, vines and gardens, with the sparkling waters from the adjoin- ing mountains rippling through all the streets, fields, gardens and lands, and with crops and fruits of all kinds abundant; and, taking them all in all, they are prosperous and thriving communities, in which each one of the community seems to strives to ad- vance the good of all. They are an in- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. dustrious, hard-working, self-reliant and apparently contented people, always living within theirmeans. The population of the valley is upwards of 15,000. Leaving Mendon to cross the valley, we pass through a farm of 9,643 acres, upon which were 30 miles of fencing, houses and out buildings, which were deeded by Pres- ident Brigham Young, just before his death, to trustees, in trust to endow a col- lege at Logan City, to be called “Brigham Young College.” The trustees are paras the land for the purpose of creating a fun to carry outthe bequest. These lands are some of the most valuable in the Terri- tory. Crossing Logan River, and seven miles from Mendon, our train stops at the city of Logan—This city is the county seat of Cache county, situated on the east side of Cache Valley, just below the mouth of Logan Canyon. It is the largest place in the valley, containing a population of ; about 3,000, most of whom are engaged in agricultural and pastoral pursuits. Water runs through the streets from the mountains and orchards; gardens, fruits and flowers abound. The city contains two flouring mills, a woolen mill, the railroad machine and re- pair shops, one hotel—the Logan House— and a branchof the Z. C. M. L., besides various small mechanical establishments. The new Tabernacle is of cut stone, and seats 2,500 people. On the east side of the city, a round plateau rises 300 feet above the streets, pro- jecting out from the average front of the mountain range 2,000 feet, into the valley. This plateau is about 500 feet in width, and shaped like the end of a monster canal boat, bottom upwards. Standing on the point, and looking west, the city is close at our feet, the broad valley beyond, and in the distance the spur of the Wasatch, over which we came from Bear Valley. To the right and left, the valley is spread out in all its beauty, and no less than 14 towns and villages are in sight, surrounded with mountain ranges, which rise, range upon range, and peak overtopping peak, the highest of which are robed in a per- petual mantle of snow. The view is one of the most beautiful that one could con- ceive. Upon this plateau, the Mormon people who reside in Cache and the four adjoin- counties, have elected to build a mag- nificent temple, in which to conduct the 139 rites and ordinances of the Mormon church, The main building will be of slate stone, 171 feet long, 95 feet wide, and 86 feet high, with a grand tower 144 feet ae from base to pinnacle, and will cost, when completed, in about four years, $450,000 to $500,000. Around the outer rim of the plateau, a double row of trees have been set out, and the water from the mountain above con- ducted in little ditches all around and over the entire grounds. Leaving Logan, our road runs north, along the base of the Wasatch Mountains —having made a great horse-shoe curve from the summit. From Logan it is five miles to Hype Park Stratron—The town of Hyde Park is to the right, close beside the mountain, one mile distant, and contains a population of about 800. One mile further, and after crossing Summit Creek, which is lined with cotton- wood trees, comes SMITHFIELD—This is a town of 1,200 population, a short distance to the right of the road. Seven miles further is RicuMoND — another town of 1,200 people, on the right, beside the mountain. These towns are all alike in beauty of sur- roundings, and the description of one is a description of all. They all have water running through the streets, orchards and gardens, and are all laid out with wide streets, by the side of which are rows of trees and good walks. Lewistown—is another small village of 400 people, situated on the opposite side of the valley, four miles distant. Six miles further, and we are atthe end of the track, at FRANKLIN—This town is one mile north of the line, between Utah and Idaho, and, consequently, is in Idaho Territory; popu- lation about 400. It is situated in Cache Valley, Oneida county, Idaho, on Chubb Creek about one mile from the station to the northeast, at the base of the Wasatch Mountains. The county seat of Oneida county is Malad City,40 miles due west. The vil- lages of Weston, Clarkston, Newton, Ox- ford, and Clifton—heretofore alluded to— are to the westward of Franklin, from ten to twenty miles. In Bear Valley, 30 miles east, over the mountains, are the towns of Paris, Montpelier and Bennington, aggre- gating a population of about 1,000. From Franklin, it is eleven miles to [ 140 ! | full of fish, notably Bear River, north, and one mile further to Battle Creek, where it forms a junction with the Bear. There it was in the winter of 1863-4, that Gen. Conner had his cele- brated fight with the Shoshone Indians. Stages leave Franklin daily for the north and west, carrying passengers, mails and express. The fareis 15c. per mile—Tim Henderson, agent. Distances from Frank- lin:—Old Fort Hall, 80 miles; New Fort Hall, 105 miles; a. Bridge, on Snake River, 130 miles; Helena, via Sansbury, 425 miles; Virginia, 355 miles; Deer Lodge, via Glendale and Butte, 400 miles; Missoule, via Deer , 500 miles; Fort Shaw, via Helena, 500 miles; Fort Benton, via Helena, 570 miles; Deer Lodge, via Helena and Blackfoot, 480 miles; Boze- man and Fort Ellis, via Virginia, 430 miles; Bozeman, via Helena and Gallatin City, 535 miles; from Franklin to Boise City, via Old Fort Hall, 200 miles. The above distances are authentic. The amount of bullion forwarded b the stagecompany, as express matter, dur- img the year of 1877, from Franklin, amounted to $500,000; and the amount of freight shipped on wagons to Montana and Idaho during the same time by H. C. Kinney, forwarding agent, was 1,300,000 pounds. Game of all kinds abounds in the valleys and in the mountains, while, along the water courses, wild geese and ducks are legion. The streams, little and big, are ~~ abundant and bite with asnap that makes an old sportsman feel happy. In fact, in this country, the old sportsman will find his beau ideal of a “happy hunting. ground.” Fruit, apples, peaches, pears, cherries, plums, currants, and in fact, all kinds of fruit are raised by the Mormons, in this and adjacent valleys in great abundance. Although we are now in Idaho Territory, and shall speak of the chief towns and the routes to them in another place, we shall pass it by for the present, until we know more about it, and take a look at Montana Territory. This Territory lies to the north of Idaho, and is generally considered solely as a mining country. Montana,at one time possessed excellent “ placer ” mines and _“ gulch diggings,” but they have been to a _ great extent, worked out. Yet there are still some camps where good pay is being Yiof the United the trout, which are taken out, and ~~ of the “old diggings” | are being worked over by the “heathen Chinee,” with good results. The mining is now mostly confined to quartz, some of which yields rich returns. Although many rich mines of gold have been discovered within her borders, the im- portance of her agricultural resources are not to be ignored. The valleys of the Missouri, Madison, Gallatin, Yellowstone, and many other rivers, possess the very best of farming and grazing lands in quan- tities sufficient to support a large popula- tion, In the mines, enterprise and capital have, and will continue to develop great wealth, but here, as in other mining coun- tries, expensive machinery must be erected and a large capital invested before the mines can be developed and worked with profit, while to the agriculturist and stock- grower Montana presents, with a contin- ually increasing home market, inducements to the poor emi t second to no section tates. The people of the Territory are energetic and persevering, with full faith in the future of their Ter- ritory, and will, in time, render it what they contend it really is, one of the wealthiest sections of the Union. Helena is the capital of the Territory, and contains a population of about 4,500. It has suffered fearfully in the past by fires, which have several times completely de- stroyed the business portion of the city, but the energy and enterprise of her people soon re-built it with substantial materials, brick anc stone. The Herald and Gazette, both daily and weekly newspapers, are pub- lished here. The chief occupation of the people is quartz mining Virernta Crry—contains a population of 1,000. The Montanian, a weekly, is pub- lished here. It is one of the most spicy papers in the far West. Dser Loper Crry—isthe third in point of population in the Territory. It contains 1,000 inhabitants, and has one weekly paper, the New Northwest Bozeman—is another thriving town, and the Avaunt Courter its representative news- paper. The Great National Park is located in a portion of Montana, and the balance in Wyoming, for a concise description of which we refer our readers to ANNEX No. 26. Returning once more to Ogden, we will now take up the Overland Route. CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ; : soar ene nes nena ceainaesilisniannho AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 141 LELAND STANFORD. Ex-Governor Leland Stanford, President of the Central Pacific Railroad of Califor- nia, was born in the town of Watervliet, | Albany county, N. Y., March 9, 1824. His ancestors were English, who settled in the Valley of the Mohawk about the beginnin of the last century. Josiah Stanford, father of Leland, was a farmer and promi- nent citizen of the county, whose family consisted of seven sons—Leland being the fourth—and one daughter. Until the age of twenty, Leland’s time was passed at study and on the farm. He then com- menced the study of law, and in 1845 en- tered the law office of Wheaten, Doolittle & Hudley, in Albany, N. Y. In 1849 he moved West, and commenced the practice of law at Port Washington, Wisconsin. Here, in June, 1850, he was married to Miss Jane Lathrop. In 1852, we find him following many of his friends to the new El Dorado. e landed in California July 12, 1852, proceeded directly to the mines, and settled at Michigan Bluffs, on the American River, Placer county, and in a few years he had not only realized a for- tune, but so far won the confidence of the tae cag as to secure the nomination for tate Treasurer, in 1859, on the Republican ticket. At this time the Democratic party had never been beaten, and the canvass was made on principle. He was defeated ; but in 1861—a split-up in theranks of the dominant party having taken place—he was nominated for Governor, and elected by a plurality of 23,000 votes. How he per- formed the trust.is well known. Suffice it to say, he received the thanks of the Leg- islature and won the approval of all classes. Governor Stanford early moved in the in- terest of the Pacific Railroad; and on the 22d of February, 1863, while Sacramento was still staggering under the devastat- ing flood, and all was gloomy in the fu- ture, with the whole country rent by civil war, he—all hope, all life and energy— 142 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST CIs VA Piss. SALT LAKE DIVISION, OGDEN TO WELLS. ene R. H. Pratt, Division Superintendent. A. G. Freu., Train Dispatcher. WEST FROM OMAHA. | SACRAMENTO TIME. EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. Daily Distance Daily Daily | py Ti 0 N S = Daily press from a Elevati'n| Express Emigrant. hist &2dcl’s| Omaha STA ist & 24 cre Emigrant. 7:45* pm) 6:15* p m!]..1082..../Lv......... OGDEN 0. s0vcces Av}....4840../*8:00 ami10:00 am 8:30 . 6:40 : oe lOR] «oa lek on aes ninnina MNCVINE. .......0.4 = - 4251...) 7285 9:15 9:05 7200 we MNES. wcciae dovek sens BrIGRAM .... . niceeens jeans 4240...) 7:15 8:40 9:45 720 oe : --| 6:55 7:35 10°45 7:40 ~| 6235 7:00 11:45 8:10 -1 6:05 6:05 12:45 a mj 8:45 5:30 4:00 3:05 | 9:10 4:58 3:05 4:20 9.35 4:20 2:10 5:10: 9:55 4:00 1:20 5:55 10:10 3:40 12:45 6:30 10:30 3:20 12:15 am 240 11:20 2:45 10 255 8:30 11:45 2:20 9:55 9:20 12:15 1:45 8:25 10:50 12:50 --/12:50 7:30 11:45 iss 4494../12:15 aml] 6:45 12:45 pm 1:55 -- 111250 5:50 1:45 2:25 BIOS. oh. noise ome ie Montello.........2.0)...- + {11:25 5:05 2345 3:15 ve LOOL aan bees nae ween on DOURY 00a eee eons 5555... /10755 4:20 3:45 3:50 ss oa Nowe e eicey ening STOANO 2450 vere sesed eee 5970. ./10:30 3:45 4:45 4:20 De L ROE. oul nee wcew ona HE CQUOD. on ecancewscclecenn 6183. .|10:00 2:50 5:20 4:40 ee LRRD 4. |oeeee ees aeies TOWEL. ose eensecns|e.. 6L58..1 9240 2:10 5:50 4:58 1235, ...|..........Independence .........[ess. 6004..| 9:20 1:85 6:30 5:20 LRH, nocd cnc caicwaeowais OOTBwnice acneves|enys 6118..} 9:00 12:55 6245 5:30 URES. oo eee a oan wire n'y s OCORTivigc cea cncacen lees 5978..) 8:50 12:40 pm 1% 25 5:45 . oe -vi....5628..} 8:25 12:00*noon + Day Telegraph. + Day and Night Telegraph. * Meals. The passenger’s attention is directed to the elevation of each station. shoveled the first earth, and May 10, 1869, drove the last spike at Promontory, Utah, which completed the Great Pacific Rail- road across the American continent. Central Pacific Railroad. Official headquarters, corner Fourth and Townsend sts., San Francisco, Cal. LELAND STANFORD... President...San Francisco. C. P. Huntineron.... Vice-Prest..... New York. -+-...2reasurer..San Francisco. E. H. Mrmr, Jr... .Secretary. .. ies A, N. TDOWNR..<.00 ss Gewl Supt.. i JNO. CORNING........ A686. © .. ey T. H. Goopman GP GT. A. * J.C, Srusgs... QP ee 8.8. Monracuz......Chief Eng’r x B. B. ReppIne....... Land Com'r a WH, Porrer.......Auditor..... = J.R. WATSON....... G. Sup. Agt. 8 E.L.Vanpersrures.Supt. Tele h * F. Kwownann, General Fastern Apt 287 Broadway, N. Y. W. C. Toomeson, Gen, Hast'n Agtfor New Eng. oston, Mass. As most of the people who read this book—we conclude—are familiar with the history of the building of the Pacific rail- road, and as we have, for nine years past, published a condensed account of it, —the trials, struggles and final triumph of the enterprise—it must suffice for this time for us to give afew facts and figures, and then pass on to our review of the cities, towns and objects of interest along theroad, and in the country adjacent thereto. The first survey was for the Central, over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, made by Theo. D. Judah, in the summer of 1860, followed by a more thorough one in the succeeding ee ee a ae Indians call the telegraph the “whispering spirit. Emigrants, on the plains, are called by the older settlers “pilgrims.” eee “Cayotes” are a small species of wolf. rabbits” are of the hare family. Infantry Soldiers are called, by the Indians, “heep walk men.” AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 143 ear, when a e buen to be Feasible. In 1862, Congress granted the charter for the Pacific railroad, and the first ground was broken for it by the Central, at Sacramento, was discovered and Cal., Feb. 22d, 1863, two years and eight | months before ground was broken for the Union, at Omaha, Neb. The followin will show the number of miles comple’ by the Central during each year: In 1863, ’64 and °65, 20 miles each year; in 1866, 30 miles; in 1867, 46 miles; in 364 miles; in 1869, 190144 miles, making 6904¢ miles from Sacramento to Prom- ey where the roads meet, May 10th, The whole length of the Pacific rail- road proper, from Omaha to Sacramento, is 1,7764¢ miles, of which the Union built 1,085 miles and the Central 6901¢ miles. By a subsequent arrangement, the Union relinquished 53 miles to the Central, and the latter purchased of the Western Pacific, in 1869, from San Francisco to Sacramento, the whole of theirroad 1371¢ miles in length which gave the Central 882 miles of road from Ogden to San Francisco, and made the entire line from Omaha to San Fran- cisco, 1,914 miles. “All aboard,” is now the order, and our train glides away to the northward through the western suburbs of the city of Ogden, crossing broad bottom-lands, much of which is under cultivation. The Weber River is on the left, and the long high range of the Wasatch Mountains on the right. Within a few miles the Ogden River is crossed, and also many irrigating canals. The track of the Utah Northern is on the right, and will continue to be, for the next 24 miles, near the foot of the mountain; and as the towns and objects of note were described on the trip over that road they will be passed in this place. Bonneville—is the first that we pass on the Central. It is 9.9 miles from Ogden, situated near Willard, in the midst of a section of good farming land, which yields large crops of wheat, barley, and corn. righam—comes next, 7.14 miles further. The town is to the eastward, near the base of the mountains, heretofore de- scribed under the head of the Utah N rth- ern, Passing Brigham, the road inclines to the left, west, and crosses Bear River on a trestle bridge 1,200 feet long, the piles of which were driven in water 18 feet deep; and half a mile further, and 7.14 miles from Brigham, we stop at Corinne—This city is not as prosper- ous in its mercantile and forwarding busi- ness as it was several years ago, owing principally to the fact that the Utah North- ern has been extended north too far; and then the taking up of the branch track from the city has entirely cut off the freighting business to Montana and the northern settlements, that formerly went from this place. However, the citizens are by no means blue, but have built a canal 868, | from a point 11 miles to the northward and now conduct the waters of the Malad River down to the city, and not only use it for irrigating thousands of acres of land, but for city and manufacturing purposes, chief of which is a flouring mill which produces about four tons of flour a day. Corinne has three churches, a good school, several hotels, and a weekly newspaper, the Record. Many of the citizens have embarked in the stockraising business, and are doing well; the range to the northward is very good. Around the town are many thou- sand acres of land, which only require irrigation and culture to render them pro- ductive in the highest degree. Again Westward! The farming lands grodeealty give way to alkali beds—white, barren, and glittering in the sun. Now the road curves along the bank of the lake, crossing the low flats on a bed raised several feet above the salt deposits. The channel along the road, caused by excava- tion, is filled with a reddish, cold-looking water. Taste it at the first opportunity, and you will wish that the first opportu- nity had never offered. , Ma —is 7.64 miles further west, being aside-track where trains seldom stop, but skirt along the base of the mountains with the lake and broad alkali bottoms on the left. The cars pass over several long and high embankments, and reach the high broken land again at Ime Creek—which is 11.96 miles from Quarry. During the construction of the road, this was one of the hardest “Camps ” along the whole line. Leaving the station, we cross Blue Creek on a trestle bridge 300 feet long and 30 feet high. Thence by tortuous curves we wind around the heads of several little valleys, crossing them well against the hillside by heavy fills. The track along here has been changed, avoiding several long tres- tle bridges, and running ona solid em- bankment. he CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST CENTRAL PACIFIC RAIL ROAD ‘OF CALIFORNIA. SCALE 200 MILES TO 1 INGH PROFILE HOR. SCALE 206 MILES TO LINCH. WERT. SCALE 0.000 FEET TO 1 INCH HUMBOLDT R, G6 SACRAMENTO h more deep rock cuts we wind montory Mountain until the | lake is lost to view. Up, up we go, the engine puffing and snorting with its ardu- ous labors, until the summit is gained, and we arrive at the former terminus of the two Pacific railroads—8.93 miles from Blue Creek. _Promontory—clevation, 4,905 feet; | distance from Omaha 1,084 miles; from | San Francisco 8380 miles—is celebrated for being the point where the connection be- tween the two roads was made on the 10th of May, 1869. This town, formerly very lively, is now almost entirely deserted. e supply of water is obtained from a spring about four miles south of the road, in one of the guiches of Promontory Mountain. The bench on which the station stands would doubtless produce vegetables or grain, if it could be irrigated, for the sandy soil is largely mixed with loam, and the bunch grass and sage-brush grow lux- uriantly. Throu around = = = 3 4749 | MATLIN The Last Spike—On Monday, the 10th day of May. 1869, a large party was congregated on Promontory Point, Utah Territory, gathered from the four quarters of the Union, and, we might say, from the four quarters of the earth. ere were men from the pine-clad hills of Maine, the rock-bound coast of Massachusetts, the everglades of Florida, the Sop shores of the Pacific a from China, Europe, and the wilds of the American continent. There were the lines of blue- clad boys, with their burnished muskets and glistening bayonets, and over all, in the bright May sun, floated the glorious old stars and stripes, an emblem of unity, power and prosperity. They are grave, earnest men, most of them, who are gath-— ered here; men who would not leave their homes and business and traverse half or two-thirds of the continent only on the most urgent necessity, or on an occasion of great national importance, such as they might never hope to behold again. It was ito witness such an event, to be present at AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 145 the consummation of one of the grandest of modern enterprises, that they had gath- ered here. They were here to do honor to the occasion when 1,774 miles of rail- road should be united, binding in one un- broken chain the East and the West. (Sacramento at that time was the western terminus.) To witness this grand event—to be par- takers in the glorious act—this assemblage had convened. All around was excite- ment and bustle that morning; men hurry- ing to and fro, grasping their neighbors’ hands in hearty greeting, as they paused to ask or answer hurried questions. This is the day of final triumph of the friends of the road over their croaking opponents, for long ere the sun shall kiss the western summits of the gray old monarchs of the desert, the work will be accomplished, the assemblage dispersed, and quiet reign once more, broken only by the hoarse scream of the locomotive; and when the lengthening mountain shadows shall sweep across the plain, flecked and mot- tled with the departing sunbeams, they will fall on the iron rails which will stretch away in one unbroken line from the Sacramento to the Missouri River. The hours passed slowly on until the sun rode high in the zenith, his glittering rays falling directly down upon the vacant place between the two roads, which was waiting to receive the last tie and rails which would unite them forever. On either road stood long lines of cars, the impatient locomotives occasionally snort- ing out their cheering notes, as though they understood what was going on, and rejoiced in common with the excited assemblage. To give effect to the proceedings, ar- rangements. had been made by which the large cities of the Union should be notified of the exact minute and second when the road should be finished. Telegraphic communications were organized with the principal cities of the East and West, and at the designated hour the lines were put in connection, and all other business sus- pended. In San Francisco the wires were connected with the fire-alarm in the tower, where the ponderous bell could spread the news over the city the instant the event occured. Baltimore, Philadelphia, Bos- ton, New York, Cincinnati, and Chicago Were waiting for the moment to arrive when the chained lightning should be toned, carrying the news of a great civil i er over the length and breadth of the | land. The hour and minute designated ar- | rived, and Leland Stanford, President, as- sisted by other officers of the Central Pa- | cific, came forward: T.C. Durant, Vice. | President of the Union Pacific, assisted by General Dodge and others of the same | company, met them at the end of the rail, | where they reverently paused, while Rev. | Dr. Todd, of Mass., invoked the Divine blessing. Then the last tie, a beautiful | piece of workmanship, of California laurel, with silver plates on which were suitable | inscriptions, was put in place, and the last connecting rails were laid by parties from each company. The last spikes were then presented, one of gold from California, one of silver from Nevada, and one of gold, silver and iron from Arizona. President Stanford then took the hammer, made of solid silver—and to the handle of which were attached the telegraph wires— aud with the first tap on the head of the gold spike at 12, m., the news of the event was flashed over the continent. Speeches were made as each spike was driven, and when all was completed, cheer after cheer rent the air from the enthusiastic assemblage, Then the Jupiter, a locomotive of the C. P. R. R. Co., and locomotive No. 116, of the U. P. R. R. Co., approached from each way, meeting on the dividing line, where they rubbed their brown noses together, while shaking hands, as illustrated. To say that wine flowed freely would convey but a faint idea of the good feeling manifested and the provision made by each company for the entertainment of their guests, and the celebration of the event. Immediately on the completion of the work, a charge was made on the last tie (not the silver-plated, gold-spiked laurel, for that had been removed and a pine tie substituted) by relic hunters, and soon it was cut and hacked to pieces, and the fragments carried away as trophies or me- mentoes of the greatevent. Even one of the last rails laid in place was cut and battered so badly that it was removed and another substituted. Weeks after the event we passed the place again, and found an enthu- siastic person cutting a piece out of the last tielaid. He was proud of his treasure —that little chip of pine—for it was a piece of the last tie. We did not tell him that three or four ties had been placed there since the first was cut in pieces. < = a oad 2 4 E a ~ @ ei A Be Pe A a Be a3 Wn? <2 a Ag ! Ez mH eS a 5 a a < & a ca | a o = P= S covntentineliorstepiearemtionennneinn baila inmate AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. In the cars belonging to each line, a 2 gh repast was served up to the in- vi ests. Then, as the sun sank low tow the western summit of Promontory Point, the long trains moved away with parting salutes from the locomotives, and the celebration was ended, the participants speeding away to their far distant homes, and so closed the eventful day on Prom- ontory Point. For sketch of Great Salt Lake, see Annex No. 21. For Hudaut’s Survey of route to Oregon, see ANNEX No, 28. ‘We now resume our westward journey from Promontory. Four miles west (near a gravel track on the north side) can be seen close to the road, on the south side, a| sign-board, which reads, “TEN MILES OF TRACK IN ONE Day.” Again, on the same side, ten miles fur- ther west, another with the same inscrip- tion will appear. These boards mark the track which was laid by the track layers of the Central Pacific company in one day, under the immediate charge of J. H. Strowbridge, Superintendent of Construc- tion, H. H. Minkler, track layer, and James Campbell, Superintendent of Division. This undoubtedly is the most extraordinary | feat of the kind ever accomplished in this or any other country. Way Ir was ponE—During the build- ing of the road, a great rivalry existed be- tween the two companies as to which could lay the most track in one day. This ri- valry commenced early in the year 1868. The “ Union ” laying six miles; soon after the “Central” laid seven miles, and then again the “ Union” seven-and a half miles. e “ Central” men, not to be outdone, an- nounced that they could lay ten miles in one day. Mr. Durant, Vice-President of the “ Union” offered to bet $10,000 that it could not be done, and the “Central”? re- _ solved it should be done. Consequently, on the 29th day of April, 1869, when only . fourteen miles of track remained to be laid to meet the “Union” at Promontory Point, and in the presence of Governor Eiatond and many prominent men from the East and West, and a committee from the “Union” to note the progress, the work commenced. How rr was DONE—-When the car loaded with rails came to the end of the track, the two outer rails on either side were seized with iron nippers, hauled for- 147 ward off the car, and laid on the ties by four men who attended exclusively to this. Over these rails the car was pushed forward, and the process repeated. Behind these men came a gang of men who half-drove the spikes and screwed on the fish-plates. At a short interval behind these came a gang of Chinamen, who drove home the spikes already inserted and added the rest. Be- hind these came a second squad of Ghina- men, two deep on each side of the track. The inner men had shovels, the outer ones picks. Together, they ballasted the ttack. The average rate of speed at which all these processes were carried on was one minute and 474¢ seconds to every 240 feet of track laid down. MaTertaL RequrrEeD——Those unac- quainted with the enormous amount of ma- terial required to build ten miles of rail- road can learn something from the follow- ing figures: It requires 25,800 cross ties, 3,520 iron rails, 55,000 spikes, 7,040 fish- plates, and 14,080 bolts, the whole weigh- ing 4,362,0001lbs. This material is required for a single track, exclusive of “ turnouts.” To bring this material forward and place it in position, ofer 4,000 men, and hun- dreds of cars and wagons were employed. | The discipline acquired in the four years since the commencement of the road en- abled the force to begin at the usual time inthe morning, calm and unexcited, and march steadily on to “Victory,” as the place where they rested at 1:30 P. M. was called, having laid eight miles of track in stvhours. Here this great Central” army must be fed, but Campbell was equal to the requirements. The camp and water train was brought up atthe proper moment, and the whole force took dinner, including many distinguished guests. After the “hour nooning,” the army was again on the march, and at precisely 7 p. ma. 10 miles and 200 feet had been completed. When this was done, the “ Union * Com- mittee expressed their satisfaction and re- turned to theircamp, and Campbell sprang upon the engine and ran it over the ten miles of track in forty minutes, thus dem- onstrating that the work was well done. Soon after leaving Promontory, the grade of the road descends, and 7.93 miles we reach Rosel—situated almost on the edge of |- Salt Lake. It is an unimportant station, | where passenger trains never stop, unless signaled. A few miles further, and we pass the sign-board where commenced the 148 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST work of laying the “ten miles of track in one day.” Continuing along on the lake shore, with large bluff on the right, for 9.49 miles further, we pass Lake—another sidetrack, and 6.98 miles more arrive at Monument—Here, many times, the lake breeze sweeps by, bearing the heavy alkaline and saline odors peculiar to this locality, and peculiarly offensive to inva- lids. “Monument Point, a slim, tapering promontory, stretches far out into the lake, covered with excellent grass. Weshallnot see much more of the article for some time to come, for we are now on what might well be called the American Desert. Leav- ing Monument, it is 7.84 miles to Seco—another side-track of no account, as all is sage-brush. Descending a heavy grade, we sweep around the head of the western arm of the lake, nearing and leav- ing its waters for the last time. Another run of 7.1 miles brings us to WKelton—or Indian Creek, as it is some- times called. This is a station of more im- riance than “7 yet passed since leaving ' a e. ere are large water-tanks by the road-side, supplied from a spring in the foothills some miles to the north- ward. Herethe Railroad Co. fill their water- cars—a train of which run daily to supply many of the stations on this division of the road. The Red Dome Mountains show their scattered spurs to the north, and | to the southeast Pilot Knob or Peak can be seen lifting its rocky front far above the | desert. From this station a daily line of coaches leaves for Idaho and Oregon, on arrival of the cars. The route passes through Idaho and the eastern part of Oregon, connecting with the steamers of the Oregon Steam Navigation Company at Umatilla, on the Columbia River—through to Boise in two days; Walla Walla in four days; Portland in five and a half days. The Borsz Country, to which the line of stages spoken of conveys the adventurous passengers, lies in the southeastern portion of Idado Territory, bordering on Oregon. |’ Extensive mines of gold have been worked ther: for years, and still continue to attract much attention, as rich mines of gold-bear- ing quart’, have been discovered and worked since the placer mines have been partially exhausted. The principal mining country is in that portion generally designated as the Boise Basin, which comprises a scope of country about 150 miles north and south, by a length of about 200 miles. The Boise mines lie north of the Snake or Shoshone River. The principal streams in the mining section are Boise River, Fayette River, Wind Creek, Moore’s Creek and Salmon River. The Owyhee mines lie south of the Snake River and War Eagle Mountains. This portion of the mining | belt of Idaho is not as extensive as the one | just mentioned. The ores are mostly silver. Boise Crry—is the capital of the Terri- tory and county seatof Adacounty. Popu- lation about 6,000. The town site was laid out in 1863, and now contains about 700 buildings, a considerable portion of which are of brick and stone. The town is sit- uated in a fine agricultural valley, about two miles wide by 50 long. It is the cen- ter of several stage routes, and also of trade for a large section of country. The States- man, a tri-weekly paper, is published here. Ipano—is the second city in size in the Territory, population about 2,500. It lies 36 miles northeast of Boise City, with which itis connected with stage, and also with Umatilla, Oregon. The World, newspaper, is published here—semi-weekly. SrnveR Crry—contains about 2,000 inhab- itants. The buildings are mostly granite. The Avalanche, a weekly paper, represents the interests of the town. We now return to the railroad, and 11.43 miles further, arrive at Om bey—Passenger trains seldom stop here, but roll on 9.87 miles further, to Matlin—This station is on the high- land, which sweeps out from the Red Dome Mountains. Here these mountains— low sandstone ridges—are nearer the track, breaking the general monotony of the scene. e road lies ‘on the northern border of a vast waste whereon we see few signs of verdure. The station is mid- way from east to west of the AmeErRIcAN DxrseRT—which extends over an area of about 60 square miles. Over this vast extent the eye wanders in vain for some green object—some evi- dence that in times gone by this waste supported animal life, or will eventually in years to come. All is desolate in the extreme; the bare beds of alkali, or wastes of gray sand only meet the vision, if we except now and then a rocky hill more barren than the plains, if such things were possible. Evidently this desert was once the bed of a saline lake, perhaps a portion of the Great Salt Lake itself. The sloping plain sweeps off towards that ln tenis on enemy enna enn nme apn RBS bt tripe San Sih nn wi cts RNa AND PACIFIC _ body of water, and in places bends down until its thirsty sands are laved by the briny flood. There are many evidences in support of the theory that it was once covered by those waters, although much higher than the present level of the lake. The saline matter is plainly discernible in many places, and along the red sandstone buttes which mark its northern border. The long line of water-wash, so distinctly seen at Ogden, and other points along the lake shore, can be distinctly traced, and apparently on the same level as the bench at those places. The difference in the alti- tude of the road is plainly indicated by this line, for as we journey westward, and the elevation of the plateau increases, we find that the water-wash line blends with the rising ground and is seen no more. Matlin is an unimportant station, 10.78 miles from Terrace—Here the railroad company have erected work-shops and a 16-stall round-house. To the northward the hills which mark the entrance to the Thousand Spring Valley are plainly seen; they are brown, bare and uninviting as the country we are passing through. Some mines are reported near, but have not yet been de- veloped. From Terrace itis 10.54 miles to Bovine— Here there is little of interest to note, the face of the country remaining about the same, though gradually improv- ing. Spots of bunch-grass appear at inter- vals, and the sage-brush seems to have taken a new lease of life, indicating a more congenial soil. Continuing on 10.85 miles further we reach Lucin—aAt this point we find water tanks supplied by springs in the hills at the outlet of Thousand Spring Valley,. which lies to the north, just behind that first bare ridge, one of the spurs of the Humboldt Ridge, but a few miles distant. The valley is about four miles wide, and not far from 60 miles long, taking in its windings from this point to where it breaks over the Divide into Humboldt Val- ley. It is little better than one continual COAST GUIDE. 149 railroad until it reaches the Humboldt via Humboldt Wells. Goose or Hot Spring Creek, a small stream which courses through the valley | its entire length, sinks near by the station, rising and sinking at intervals, until it is lost in the desert. Before reaching the next station we leave Utah and enter the State of Nevada. Passing over 11.75 miles of up-grade, our train arrives at Tecoma — In 1874 quite an excitement was created among the mining operators by the discovery of rich silver and lead mines, situated about five miles south of this station inthe Toano range of moun- tains. A new town was laid out at the mines—called Buel. A smelting furnace was erected at the mines and a run of 200 tons of bullion produced, valued at $360,- 000, which was shipped to San Francisco on one train, creating no small excitement on California street. Indications of coal mines have been found in the vicinity, but no systematic effort has yet been made to develop them. Stock-raising is now the principal busi- ness of this country. To the northward of this station, and in fact for the last two stations, large herds of cattle can be seen, and at the stations, pens and shutes for shipping. Pinot PERAK, a noted landmark which has been visible for the past fifty miles, lies almost due south of this station—dcis- tance 36 miles. It is a lofty pile of rocks —the eastern terminus of Pilot Mountains —rising about 2,500 feet above the barren sands. For about half-way from the base to the summit the sides are shelving piles of shattered rock—huge masses crushed to atoms. Above that it rises perpendicularly the summit looking like some old castle when seen at a distance. From Promontory Point looking westward, this vast pile can be seen ona clear day—a dark mass amid the blue haze which bounds the western horizon. To the emigrant, in early days, before the railroad,itwas a welcome landmark, point- ing his course to Humboldt Wells or Thou- sand Spring Valley, where he was sure to bog in the center—the water from the nu-j find water and feed for his weary teams, merous standing in pools over the surface. There is good range of pasturage for the cattle in the valley and hills beyond. The old em- brackish springs found there | afier crossing the barren waste. From Tecoma itis 9.56 miles up.grade to WMontello—elevation 4,999 feet. The general aspect of the country is changing igrant road branches off at or near the with the increasing elevation. We ap- station, one road passing through the val- ley, the other following nearly the line of proach nearer the long, rough ridge of the Goose Creek Range, the sides and gulches | 150 of which afford pasturage and water at intervals. We are leaving the barren sands behind us, and the coun more capable of supporting animal life. Continuing the up-grade—over 550 feet within the next 9.6 miles—we arrive at Loray—a station of little importance to the traveler. From Loray, up we go for 7.1 miles further to ‘Toano—auntil recently the end of the division. The company have here erected work- shops and a 14-stall round-house. Toano is centrally located as regards many mining districts in Eastern Nevada, among which are E Canyon, Kinsley, Kern, Patter- son, Ely, Pahranagat and Deep Creek—all of which are under rapid development. A stage line is in operation from this place to Egan Canyon and the Cherry Creek mines, a distance of 90 miles south. leaving Toano we begin the ascent of Ce- dar Pass, which divides the Desert from Humboldt Valley. The country is more broken, but possessing more vegetation, We have passed the western line of the desert, where, in early days, the travel- worn emigrant wearily toiled through the burning sand, his journey unenlivened by the sight of water or vegetation. One word more, re ing this desert: The term sand is generally applied, when speaking of the soil of the barren wastes which occur at intervals along the road. With one or two exceptions it is a misnomer, though it well applies to the desert we have crossed. Most of the surface of this waste is sand, fine, hard and grey, mixed with marine shelis and fossilized fragments of another age. There is no evidence on which to found a hope that this portion of the country could be rendered subservient to the use of man, consisting, as it does, of beds of sand and alkali, overlaying a heavy gravel deposit. Ages must pass away before nature’s wondrous changes shall render this desert fit for the habitation of man. Continuing on up the ridge, 9.91 miles, we pass Peq tuop—and 5.83 miles further Otege - both side-tracks of little im- portance. Then we commence to descend, and 5.6 miles further arrive at Endepend en c¢e-— Independence Springs, from which this station derives its hame, are near by, and supply an abun- dance of very good cold water. Independence, Clover and Ruby valleys, looks | Soon after CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST lie to the southward. Thetwo first named are small and valueless except for grazing purposes. From Cedar Pass a spur, or rather a low range of hills, extends far to thesouthward. About0 or 80 miles south of the pass, is the South Fork of the Hum- boldt which canyons through this range, running to the east and north of another range until it reaches the main Humboldt. Although the range first mentioned, after having united with the western range south of the South Fork, extends much farther south, we will follow it only to Fort Ruby, which is situated in the south end of Ruby Valley, near to the South Fork. From | this fort to the pass is about 65 miles, which may be taken as the length of the valley. The average width is ten miles from the western range mentioned to the foot-hills of Ruby Range, which. hems in the valley to the east. A large portion of this valley is very productive ard is occu- pied by settlers—mostly discharged sol- diers from Fort Ruby. In the southeast- ern portion of the valley is Ruby and Franklin lakes, which are spoken of un- der the general term of Ruby Lake, for in high water they are united, forming a brackish sheet of water about 15 miles long by seven in width, which has no out- let. It is—like Humboldt, Carson and Pyr- amid lakes in the Truckee Desert—merely a reservoir, where the floods accumulate to evaporate in the dry summer. The old stage road, from Salt Lake to Austin, crosses the foot of the valley at Ruby sta- tion. About 20 miles east of the Ruby Range lies Goshoot Lake, another brackish pond, with two small tributaries and no outlet, rather wider and about the same length as Ruby Lake. About half-way be- tween Goshoot and the railroad lies Snow Lake, about five miles in diameter, possess- ing the same general characteristics as the others. With the exception of the valleys around these lakes and along the water- courses, the country is valueless except for stock-raising. In the Ruby Range rich silver lodes have been discovered, some rock of which has been found to assay as high as $600 per ton. Returning to Independence, we again proceed westward—the country is rolling and broken—and the up-grade continues 6.1 miles to Moore’s—on the summit of Cedar Pass. We now have down-grade for 311 miles to the Nevada Desert. In general outline this pass resembles a —— AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 151 Timea TA Bie. ee HUMBOLDT DIVISION. WELLS TO WINNEMUCCEH. G. W. Coppineton, Division Superintendent. WEST FROM OMAHA. SACRAMENTO TIME. EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. . ae : — ogy 5 TATIO NS ou = ee, : Migran xpress rom 2 xpress migran and Selgin: Ist & 2d cl’s} Omaha. ist & 2d cl’s |and freight. 8:45 p mj 5:55 a m|-.-1250..|Lv..... ... {WELLS......... Ar|----5628..1 8:15 pm/1100 am 9:30 6:15 ARSE we ees TULASOO.... <5. 00005 +» 5483.01 7245 10°15 10:05 6:25 on PREB . ae come Bishop’s..........-- oe D400... 1 7:38 9:45 11 300 6:45 oe D270. ee ees Deeth.....<-.--..- ... 0040... | 7:18 $:00 12:35 «a mij 7215 -- 1288. |... eee eee +Halleck...........-]+--- 5227..| 6:40 7145 12:47 7:23 oe LRBT oo) eww eee es Peko ......--. -2-j--r- 5204.. | 6:38 73233 2:00 7.50 ..-1298..1.........-.. Osima .....-..-.-- ..-.5135.. | 6:08 ; 6:10 3:00 8:15 * oe lL SOT 2]. nee ween ee tH Ko.....0...---- fees 5065.. | 5:20 * 525 4:20 9:07 -- 1819. .1........ 2... MOLEOM.... 0.220002 .--4981.. 1) 4:48 4:20 5:35 9:35 oo ABBO. Jo. eee eens SOarlin.........+.-4--- 4903..| 4:05 3:20 8:00 10:15 +e 1839 |... ee. wees Palisade....... .---|---- 4840.. | 3:36 1:30 9:15 11:45 «.1349..] 22.2.2... ES CUUROle ce sees) dese 4766...) 3:11 12:25 am 10:00 11 305 «eek BSB |. --- vosaee +Be-0-wa-we ....-.----1--- 4690... | 2:52 11335 11:00 ‘11 20 .-.1968..1...........-Shoshome ...........|...-- 4636..| 2:30 10335 12:00 12:00 mi]... 1879...) 2-1... wees Argenta ...... --- 4548... | 2:06 9:25 1:40 p mj12:30 * am|)...13890..|........ +Battle Mountain. -.4508.. | 1:20 * 7:50 2:05 1:05 ees L BOS eodeaseseccee ~or FdBbO... ..- ..4506.., | 1:05 Tsi1b 2340 1:24 i ate Colm. ...--4. ..4505.. 11248 p m| 6:25 3:15 1:40 . 3. . 228 5:40 4720 2:09 3 ONG... seen ne foes 4421 .. (11:05 4:20 5:40 2:40 als +Golconda ...-.......|-... 4375... (11:35 2:40 6:50 3:06 2 eee wo ING. cae va cn pedlen ee .. 2110 1:25 7:30) pmi 3:20 p mi. |Ar.... tWINNEMUCOA ....Livl....4815.. 110: amli2:45 pm | + DayTelegraph. +Day and Night Telegraph. * Meals. — The passenger's attention is directed to the elevation of each station. rather rough, broken plateau, bent upward in the middle, forming a natural road-bed from the desert to the Humboldt Valley. It was once covered with scrub cedar, which has been cut off for use by the Railroad Company and others. Some is still ob- tained in the mountains to the northward. About 15 miles to the north a high, craggy peak marks the point where Thoma Spring Valley bends to the southward, and from its divide slopes down to the valley of the Humboldt. Descending 2.65 miles is Cedar—a small side-track, and six the location of railroad shops at this place much improvement is noticeable in the last few years. It contains a population of about 200. The chief points of interest around the station are the celebrated HumBotpt WrELis—around which the emigrants, in early times, used to camp while they recruited their teams after a long, hard journey across the desert. The wells are situated in the midst of a beauti- ful meadow or valley, which, from this point, slopes away until it joins with the miles further brings ourtrain to the end of |Humboldt or main valley. The springs, the Salt Lake Division and to Humboldt Wells. Wells—is now the commencement of the Humboldt Division, where are located the usual round-house and machine shops of a division. The station is 1,250 miles from Omaha, and 664 from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,628 feet. Owing to or wells—about twenty in number—are scattered over this little valley; one from which the company obtain their supply of water being within 200 yards of the road, and about that distance west of the station. A house has been built over it, and the water is raised into the tanks by means of an engine. | i cies gig a hs cet SCS RCA ea ON tar iN dnc aA rei 153 CROFUTY’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST These wells would hardly be noticed by | most of the settlers about the Wells, and to the traveler, unless his attention was called | the northward. to them. Nothing marks their presence| Leaving Humboldt Wells we proceed except the circle of rank grass around | down the valley for a few miles, when we them. When standing on the bank of one! enter the main valley of the Humboldt, of these curious springs you look on a still | one of the richest agricultural and ing surface of water, perhaps six or seven feet | valleys to be found in the State. The soil | across, and nearly round, no current dis-| isa deep, black loam, moist enough for all turbs it; it resembles a well more than a | purposes without irrigation, from 15 inches natural spring, and you look around to see | totwo feetdeep. This portion of the Hum- the dirt which was taken therefrom when | boldt extends for about 80 miles in length, the well was dug. The water, which is | with an average width of ten miles, near] slightly brackish, rises to the surface, seep-| every acre included therein being of qual- ing off through the loose, sandy loam soil | ity described. From Osino Canyon to the of the valley. No bottom has been found | head-waters of the valley is occupied by to these wells, and they have been sounded | settlers who have taken up hay ranches toa great depth. Undoubtedly they are| and stock ranges. The river abounds in the craters of volcanoes, long since extinct, | fish and the foot-hills with deer and other but which at one time threw up this vast ' game. body of lava of which the soil of Cedar; Tux Humsorpr Rrvzrrises in the Hum- Pass is largely composed. The whole face | boldt Mountains, northwest of Cedar Pass, of the country bears evidence of the mighty | and courses westerly for about 250 miles, change which has been taking place for | when it bends to the south, emptying into centuries. Lava in hard, rough blocks; | Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles from the lava decomposed and powdered; huge! Big Bend. Itis a rapid stream for most of blocks of granite and sandstone in the | the distance, possessing few fords or con- foot-hills, broken, shattered and thrown | veuient places for crossing. The railroad around in wild confusion, are some of the | follows down its northern bank until it signs indicative of an age when desolation | reaches Twelve-mile Canyon, about 16 reigned supreme. The valley in which | miles west of Carlin. Here it crosses to the wells are situated is about five miles | the south side of the river and continues long by three wide, covered with a luxuri-| about 170 miles, when it crosses again and ant growth of grass. It is excellent farm- leaves the river, skirting the foot-hills in ing land, capable of producing luxuriant full view of theriverandlake. crops of Son gay grain or grass. The; The main stream has many varieties of low hills afford an extensive “range” and; fish, and at certain seasons of the year its good grazing. The transition from the | waters are a great resort for wild ducks parched desert and barren upland to these | and geese. here it enters the lake the reen and well-watered valleys is so sud-/yolume of water is much less than it is 100 den that it seems like the work of magic. | miles above, owing to the aridity of the soil One moment in the midst of desolation, [through which it passes. Of the valleys the next in the midst of the green valleys | pordering it we shall speak separately, as redolent with the aroma of the countless | onthe division is totally distinct in its gen- flowers which deck their breasts. eral features. The “old emigrant road” Rich mineral discoveries have been| can be distinctly traced along: the river made about 35 or 40 miles southeast of | fom its head to its source. Wells—east of Clover Valley—in the John-| fyom Wells, continuing down grade, it son & Latham district. The veins are re-|3, 75 miles to ported large, well-defined, and rich in sil-|~ ygjasee—a small side -irack, five ver, copper and lead; large deposits of | ijes from iron ore have also been found. The dis- Bishop’s—This is another unimpor- trict is well supplied with wood and water, |;ant sidetrack, where Bishop’s Valley and easy of access from the railroad. A | nites with the Humboldt. This valley is stage runs through the district, extending | +9 miles long, with an average width of 100 miles south to Shellburn, near the old|fve miles. Itis very fertile, being watered overland stage road, in the Shellcreek by Bishop’s Creek, which rises in the Hum. mining district. A stage line is also in : : 7 Humboldt Canyon, ee iemntioe to the Bull Run district. boldt Mountains, near Hum y Stock-raising occupies the attention of through the valley. about 70 miles to the northeast, and winds | [ } naib ic tnt nana eae neta neni geen BOGARDUS’S PATENT GLASS BALL TRAP. remit ie i iptt nenann The attention of SaooTinG CLUBs and Sportsmen generally is called to this Trap; it isthe only one that gives good practice for wing shooting, as it throws the ballin a manner more closely resembling the flight of a bird than any other trap made. Any man who has ever shot a bird on the wing, and will practice from my tiap according to rule, until he can break two-thirds of the balishe shoots at, can go in tue field and se- cure a good bag of game. The singletrap will throw the bal'siy any direction or eleva- tion, atthe option of the puller, as the screen prevents tne shooter seeing which way the trap may be set. Tu Bo- GARDUS Parent Rover Giass BsLus are made of uniform weight and thickness, and have @ corrugated surface that strengthens the ball for ship- ment to any part of the country, prevents the glancing of shot, and thereby insures the break- ing of the ball when hit. Buy none but the best and patr nize the man who has spent both time and money to introduce poses ball shooting to the sport- ng public until it hay become @ national pastime. Balls and = Traps can be ordered through all gun-deaters. Ralls, $2.00 per iad Nberal discount tu the tr: de. . > a HEADQUARTERS, ee ee For Balls, Haverty Bros., 10 Piatt St., N.Y. For Traps, Geo. E, Hart & Co., Newark, N. J. Field, Cover aud Trap Shooting, and Appendix, BY CAPT. A. H. BOGARDUS. The only book ever written by a man who hunted for market: full of interest to he sportsman, both professional and amateur, as it contains the knowedge acquired by Capt. A. H. Bugardus, the surest wing shot i the world, during a period of twenty-five years, allspentin the field during theshooting seison. Jn the Appendix wi.l be ious a fall account of his trip to England, his California experience, und his California quail shooting; and fullinstructions in glass ball shooting—how the amateur may be- come a crack wing shot; cuts showing the position and & manner of holding the gun when at the score in glass ball or pigeon shooting; acs rules for glass ball or pigeon shooting: a chapter on breeding and breaking dogs, by Miles Johns n,of New Jersey; the official score of5,000 ball match at Giimore’s Garden, Jan. 3, 1873. 1-vol., 400 pp., i2mo., fancy stamped, with steel portrait of the author, and an engraving of his four championship medals, $2.00. Sent postpaid on receipt of price. Tuts Struzt Trap, $6. Address, A. HEH. BOGARDUS, , flizhart, Ti. ee opacity arnt ‘ON xouuy 996) “NOO@UO ‘UAAIM VIAWNTIOO ‘NUOH AdvVO THE PULLMAN HOTEL CAR ROUTE ONLY ONE Railroad between CHICAGO and the MISSOURI RIVER (Omaha) can offer to the TRaNs-CONTINENTAL TRAVELER these luxurious Hotel Cars, and that Koad is the : q Saturday,) and reach CHICAGO the next afternoon, CARTE he value of these luxurigus Ho comforts cf Hom ; = ees ee foe Chi : & a Rollway is the only roa: t runs Pullman _or ary other form. of Motel, Dining or Restaurant Car THROUGIE _ between Chicaro and the Missouri River. ferlor of Be d ULLin Bones eaeeree : z 2 i PULLMA MOLL CARS oe 2 Zz o | ARE NOW LUNNING BLTWEEN a > a 0= Chicago and Council Bluffs a 3s = = t On the Omaha, Denver and California Trains of the = 5 2 H@ Chicage dé Northwestern Riway |) 8 & q 3 Pn = rete St ™ ss yg Ss is 2 2-4 Bes Sloe ESS 3 e< < GER = a a S2 ue baa} & Ss S & eS 3s 858 (He = a ea} ane 0 8 B o ZoklH=ae ay 2 a pal 45 a eG fl] 8s 3 = o 2 =|, 882 pees an7 q 565 i be * aD e|Me.8) a 18 = BO Sly ae Hes 25 4)0 5% i eit * aed Oge z 5 Boe 2 a= - 2 eas |Msee Hess a<3 Hees B32 Enz a me Bio] goss Zee pn} ‘ pT o ee | a> os @—4 8\|He=8) < a2 wes Fal ae a ag S| S 8/28" Qa 2oa/0 | | 5 eo4 e734 gee 5 2/4 ngs a aS pn SC] H Ba: < ia o o ° 3 | b 2 & 2 He eo b wy a fu : g lhe S = lag g S dq . a o S in E Hast-bound, they leave COUNCIL BLUFFS at & : to'say that ro road in the world can preduce the equal to these mugnificent cars, and as the traveler wants the best of everything that can be had, he must of necessity use this linein his TRANS-CONTINENTAL TRIP. The charges for berthsin these Hotel Cars are the same (and no “oe? as are made in the more common Sleeping Car, so that the traveler using one of these palatiul hotels is given much more worth for his money than he can get on any other line. Insist upon Ticket Agents selling you TickcetsVia this Road. Examin: your Tickets, and refuse to buy if they do not read over this Road. All Ticket et Agents can sell you Through Tickets and Check usual Baggage Free by this Line, New York Ofice—415 Broadway; Boston Ofice—5 State Street; Chicago Ticket Ofices—62 Clark Street, under Sherman Honse, 75 Canal Street. and Wells Street Depot—corner Wells and Kinzie Strects; Omaha Ticket Ofices—Union Pacific Depot, and 245 Farnham Street, cor. 14th; Sen Fran- cisco Ofice—2 New Montgomery Street. MARVIN HUGHITT, W. H. STENNETT, General Manager, Chicago. General Passenger Agent, Chicago. sect ners rnsnns Sniasn cic a SiS ahsn on nanrpop ha nae plete rate ocean ienSnnanscnnl os AND PACIFIC COAST CUIDE. 153 Deeth—is passed 7.7 miles from Bish-| The valley of the North Fork is from op’s, and 12.9 miles further we arrive at _| five to seven miles wide and covered with Halleck.—aAt this station Government|}a heavy growth of grass, and, like the stores are left for Fort Halleck, a military | main valley, is susceptible of a high state station on the opposite side of the river.|of cultivation. Wheat, barley and vege- At the foot of the mountain—about twelve | tables of all kinds, where cultivated, yield miles distant from the station—can be seen | handsome returns. The seasons are long some settlers’ buildings, which are situated | enough, and the absence of early and late on the road.to the post. The military post | frosts insures a natural crop. Around the is hid from view by the intervening hills. | head of this valley are many smaller ones, It is situated on an elevated plateau, which | each tributary stream having its own sepa- lies partially behind the first range, de-| rate body of ee land. Some are per- bouching thence in a long upland, which | fect gems, nestled among the-hills and extends some distance down the river. | almost surrounded by timber. Here game The valleys which lie along the hills, as | in abundance is found—quail, grouse, hare, well as this upland, are settled, and have| deer and bear, and sometimes a “moun- proved very productive. Wheat, barley |tain lion.” The tourist, angler and hunter and vegetables are extensively cultivated, | will find enough to occupy them pleas- and a ready market is found along the. antly fora short stay, should they choose railroad for the surplus crop. to visit this region. In the main and Peko—is an unimportant station 3.3 | smaller valleys are many thousand acres of miles west of Halleck. Just after leaving | Government land unclaimed,excepting that the station we cross the north fork of the | portion owned by the Railroad Company. Humboldt on a truss bridge. This river,) The Humboldt and all its tributary val- where it unites with the main stream, is|leys, as a range for stock, have no su- about of equal size. It rises about 100/ perior west of the Rocky Mountains. The miles to the north, and receives as tribu-| winters are mild—snow rarely falling taries many small creeks and rivulets, | sufficiently deep to render it necessary to NGS INDIANS WATCHING i icy ct ccna Ninian aaiianiniiainN niin RTT. 154 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST feed the stock. Wild cattle are found in the valleys and among the hills, which have never received any attention or care. Stock-raisers are turning their attention of late to this country and find it very remu- nerative. The range is not confined to the valley alone, the foot-hills and even the mountain sides produce the bunch-grass in profusion. Wherever sage-brush grows rank on the hill-sides, bunch-grass thrives equally well, Osino—is 11.8 miles down the valley from Peko—a signal station at the head of —_ Canyon, where the valley suddenly ends. At this point the northern range of the mountains sweeps down to the river bank, which now assumes a tortuous course— seeming to double back on itself in places —completely bewildering the traveler. Across the river the high peaks of the mt ena chain rise clear and bold from the valley , contrasting strongly with the black, broken masses of shattered mountains among which we are winding in and out, seemingly in an endless labyrinth. Now we wind round a high point, the rail lying close to the river’s bank, and next we cross a little valley with the water washing against the opposite bluffs, halfa mile away. A dense mass of willow covers the bottom lands through which the river wanders. On around another rocky point and we are in a wider portion of the = with an seonges! strip of meadow | land in view, when suddenly we emerge into a beautiful valley, across which we | speed, the road curving around to the right, and 8.8 miles from the last station we arrive at Elke—tThe county seat of Elko county; popu ation about 1,200. Elko is a regular eating station for all trains from the East angi West. The town formerly consisted of wood and canvas houses—now the latter class is rapidly being replaced by some- thing more substantial. During the last few years the town has improved mate- a. The State University, which cost $30,000, is located here, just to the north- ward of the town. At this station—and almost every one to the westward—can be seen representatives of the Shoshone or Piute Indians, who come around the cars to beg. Any person who wiches to tella big “ whopper” would say, they are clean, neatly dressed, “child-like and bland,” and erfumed with the choicest attar of roses, utan old plainsman would reverse the saying in terms more expressive than elegant. ear the town some Warm SPRINGS are attracting attention. The medicinal quali- ties of the water are highly spoken of. A hack plies between the hotel and the springs, making regular trips for the ac- commodation of visitors, The rich silver mining district of Cope is about 80 miles due north of Elko, near the head waters of the North Fork of the Humboldt, bordering on the Owyhee coun- try. Some very rich mines have been dis- covered and several quartz mills erected, in that district, but the more recent dis- coveries are in Tuscarora district about 50 miles north, and are said to be very rich. Stages leave Elko daily for Mountain City—north, in Cope district—80 miles dis- tant, and all intermediate towns and camps. Stages also run to Railroad district—south 25 miles, and to Eureka district, 100 miles; also a weekly line to the South Fork of the Humboldt and Huntington valleys. Large quantities of freight arrive at, and are re-shipped from this station on wagons, for the various mining districts to the north an | south. Another important business that has sprung up at Elko, within the last few years, is cattleraising. Elko county con- tains more cattle than any other two coun- ties in the State, and Elko ships more cattle than any four stations on the road, being amply provided with all the facilities —roomy yards, shutes, etc., for a busi- ness that is rapidly increasing, and is des- tined, before many years, to far excee: all others in the State. This section is well watered by rapid mountain streams, and the country abounds in game of all kinds—a hunter’s paradise. The valley of the Humboldt, for tweuty miles above and below Elko, cannot be ranked as among the best of 1ts bottom-lands, though it is susceptible of cultivation to a considerable degree. Buta narrow strip is meadow, the remainder being higher, gravelly land, covered with sage-brush and bunch-grass. Without irrigation it is use- less for agricultural purposes. Passing down from Elko—the valley dotted with the hamlets of the rancher for about nine miles—we come opposite the South Fork of the Humboldt. This stream rises about 100 miles to the south- east. Itcanyonsthrough Ruby Mountains, and then follows down the eastern side cf one of the numerous ranges, which, i nati eet cat casa eT aPC aati eae cc i hl aa hice ent AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 155 under the general name of the Humboldt Mountains, intersect the country. For portions of the distance there is fine valley land along the stream, ranging from one to seven miles wide, adapted to culti- vation, but, as a body, it is inferior to either the Main or North Fork valleys. How- ever, the land is a/l admirably adapted for grazing purposes. Moleen—is a signal station, 11.8 miles west of Elko. After leaving this station the valley presents a changed appearance. The meadow lands are broad and green, extending over most of the valley; on the right the bluffs are high and covered with luxuriant bunch-grass. Soon the meadows are almost entirely closed out, and we en- ter Five Mile Canyon. Through this the river runs quite rapidly; its clear waters sparkling in the sunlight as they speed along, while occasional narrow strips of meadow land are to be seen at times. The scenery along this canyon is hardly surpassed by the bold and varied panorama presented to our view along the base of the snow-capped mountains through which the river and railroad have forced their way. Soon after entering the canyon we pass several isolated towers of conglomerate rock, towering to the height of nearly 200 feet. Leaving this canyon, we find Susan Valley, another strip of good farming land, about twenty miles long, by four wide, bordering the East Fork of Maggie’s ek. Among the foot-hills of Owyhee Range, to the northward, are many beauti- ful, tertile vaileys, well watered by moun- tain streams, waiting only the advent of the settler to transform them into produc- tive farms. Timber is plenty in the ra- vines and on the hill-sides—suflicient for the wants of alarge population. Passing on to near the next station, we cross Mag- gie’s Creek, which empties into the Hum- boldt from the north. This stream is named for a beautiful Scotch girl, who, with her parents, stayed here for atime “re- cruiting their steck” in the old times when the early emigrants toiled along the river. Itrises in the Owyhee Mountains, about 80 miles to the northward. The valley through which the stream flows is from three to five miles wide and very fertile. It extends to the base of the mountains, about 70 miles, and is now mostly occupied by stockmen. The stream affords excellent trout fishing, and game of various kinds abounds on the hills bordering the valley. Some time since, a wagon road was surveyed and located up this valley to Idaho Territory. From Moleen, it is 11.6 miles to Carlin—This is quite a busy station, of about 600 population. Here are located the offices of Humboldt Division, and the division workshops. The latter are of wood and consist of a round-house of 16 | stalls, a machine, car and blacksmith shop. The railroad was completed to this place Dec. 20, 1868. To the south of Carlin, from 15 to 60 miles, are located mines rich in gold, sil- ver, copper and iron. To the northward, rich discoveries have been made, extend- ing to the Owyhee country. In both these sections new mining districts have been located, and the attention of experienced capitalists is being attracted thereto. Mary’s CREEK—rises three miles north and enters the Humboldt at Carlin. It rises in a beautiful lakelet nestled amon the hills and bordered by a narrow slip o: fine valley land. The valley of the stream, and that portion surrounding its head waters, is occupied by settlers. Proceeding down the river from Carlin, acs agape for some distance the green meadows con- | tinue fair and wide; then thesloping hills give place to lofty mountains, which close in on either hand, shutting out the valley. From the appearance of this mountain range one would suppose that it had ex- tended across the valley at one time, form- ing a vast lake of the waters of the river, then some mighty convulsion of nature rent the solid wall asunder, forming a pas- sage for the waters which wash the base of the cliffs, which are from 500 to 1,000 feet high. This place is generally known as HE PALISADES — Humboldt or Twelve Mile Canyon, although it does not possess similar points of interest with Echo or Weber canyons, yet in many eal oe ticulars the scenery is equally grand, absence of varied coloring may be urged 1 its claims to equality with those places, but, on the other hand, its bleak, bare, brown walls possess a majestic and gloomy grandeur which coloring could not improve. In passing downthiscanyon, we | seem to pass between two walls which threaten to close together ere we shall gain the outlet. Theriver rolls at our feet a rapid, boiling current, tossed from side to side of the gorge by the rocks, wasting its fury in vain attempts to break away its prison walls. The walls in places have crum- bled, and large masses of crushed rocks 156 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST slope down to the river brink. Seams of | the road that comes in here and note what iron ore and copper-bearing rock break | can be seen. the monotony of color, showing the exist- ence of large deposits of these materials among these brown old mountains. Now we pass “Red Cliff,” which rears its bat- tered frontlet 800 feet above the water. A colony of swallows have taken possession of the rock, and built their curious nests upon its face. From out their mud pal- aces they look down upon us, no doubt wondering aboutthe great monster rushing past, and after he has disappeared, gossip- ing among themselves of the good old times when his presence was unknown in the canyon. Now we pass “Maggie's Bower,” a brown arch on the face of the cliff, about 500 feet from its base. We could not see much bower — unless it was the left bower, for we defé it behind us. Twisting in and around these projecting cliffs, 9.1 miles from Carlin, we reach Palisade—a station, in the midst of the Palisades, and apparently locked in on all sides. This is a busy place for a small one of only 200 population, as it is the junction of the Eureka & Palisade rail- road, where are located their machine and workshops. Most of the box and flat cars ofthis company are made here in their own shops. The amount of freight han- died at this station is enormous. Passen- gers can, almost always, see large piles of base bullion pigs piled up at the freight house, awaiting shipment. This bullion is mostly freighted here from the smeltin furnaces at Eureka, by the Eureka an Palisade railroad, which alone handled 31,038,884 pounds during the year 1877. One great item of freight taken down over this road—the E. & P.—is timber from the Sierra Nevada Mountains, for use in timbering up the mines at Eureka. Palisade, beside the machine shops above named, has several large build- ings, used by the Railroad Company, for a and storage and one a fine, com- modious passenger station; these with several stores, hotels, restaurants and ; saloons make up the town. The station is supplied with water from a huge tank, situated upon the mountain side, to the north, 300 feet above the sta- tion. This tankin turn is supplied from springs situated further up the mountain, that never fail in their supply. Now, as we started out to see what was worth seeing, let us take a run down over | Eureka & Palisade Railroad. Principal Office, Eureka, Nevada. TR. MECC. sn OVROM OMNE,. 5 os ce ce beae es Eureka. P. yvenes .... Gerd BW t.. occccsc es j Hureka. I. F. Lawuzr..Gen'l F. P. & T. Agt...Palisade. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, commenced in December, 1873, and com- pleted to Eureka in October, 1874, and is 90 miles in length. Passenger trains leave for the South on arrival of trains on the Central, and arrive in time to connect for either the Eastor West. The trains make full 20 miles an hour, and the cars are as commodious and nice as on any road in this country. Leaving Palisade we cross the Humboldt River and start for the West, the C. P. on the north side of the river and our little train on the south side. But a few hun- dred yards from the station we curve around to the left, while the C. P. makes a similar one to the right and is soon lost to view. ‘The general course of our train is south, following up Pine Valley, which is, for the first ten miles, covered with sage- brush—as is also thesurrounding hills. Bu.uron—is the first station on the bills, eight miles from Palisade, but we pass it, and the valley widens and 4.25 miles fur- ther is over one mile in width, Now our train is at Evans—a simple side-track, important only to a few settlers near, who are culti- vating small fields and watching herds of cattle and sheep, which find good ranges on the hills, ravines, and neighboring valleys. Some fields are fenced, for the protection of the grass, which is cut for hay. The Cortez Mountains are on the west—the right side—and the Diamond range on the left. Wiiiarp’s—is 15 miles from Palisade, and four miles from Hay Rancu—This station is the first from Palisade where anything like busi- ness isto be seen. Here the Railroad Com- pany have 2,500 acres of bottom land fenced, on which they cut annually about 1,000 tons of hay, which they bale and store away in those long warehouses to be seen on the right of the road. The com- pany run freight teams from the end of their road at Eureka, and—in connection | with it—to Pioche and all intermediate places. These teams are composed of 18 mules each, with three and sometimes four AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. wagons coupled together—as illustrated on page 67—employing from 300 to 400 mules, each team hauling from 30,000 to 40,000 lbs. In winter, when their mules are not in use, they are kept at this station, and the hay is harvested by the company and used for their own stock. Continuing on up the valley 9.31 miles, we come to Box Sprrnes—but trains do not stop only on signal, and nine miles further stop at MrneraL—This is a regular eating sta- tion, and in fact is the only one on the road. The meals cost $1.00, and are of the sub- stantial order, that makes bone and sinew. To the east is located the Mineral Hill Mine, once the most productive in the State, but it proved to be a “ pocket’ and the origina] owners, after taking out sev- eral millions of dollars, sold their mine to an English company—who, until within the last year, have allowed it to remain 157 AMERICAN RIVER CANYON. Near Shady Run, Sierra Nevada Mountain:. idle. It is now being worked with good prospects. From Mineral, it is 5.5 miles to DrEP WELLS—so named for a deep well that was dug near by, to procure water for the freight teams that were in the habit of traveling this road. The enterprising “Pil- grim” who dug the well was wont to charge $1.00 for sufficient water to water an 18 mule team, or “ four skins full for a quar- ter.” From Deep Wells the route is over a sage-brush country, rough and bluffy, for seven miles, to ALPHA—a small station, near where kilns of charcoal are burned for use at the smelting furnaces. To the west of this station is a broad valley, over which range large herds of cattle. Willow Creek, a small stream, is crossed, and ten miles from Alpha is Prinz Srarron—another place where charcoal burning is the principal busi- ha pai cath emia iri emeeeer nnennenetsetn/ entertainers en ennnienanenmnshaennnemmanretn 158 ness. Cedar trees are noticeable along on the bluffs as we pass by; sage is abund- ant, and jack-rabbits are numerous and very large—ihey call them “ narrow-gauge mules” in this country. Crpsar—is the next station, three ana-a- half miles from Pine. rough and broken, and sage predominates ; the grade is heavy and the road crooked— twisting and turning for 7.5 miles to Summir—a station on the dividing ridge between Pine Valley on the west and Dia- mond Valley on the east. The face of the country is not very inviting, except for those “ narrow-gauge mules.” Near the summit the old overland stage road crosses from Jacob’s Wells on the east to Austin on the west. From the summit the road enters Dia- nin nee iaansbnssbh i rs nmol the road making, between Summit and —a doubling back upon itself to the projecting spurs that shoot out from the range of high bluffs on each side. Continuing along up the narrow valley nine miles, we reach DraMON D—an unimportant station, and another run of twelve miles brings our train to the end of the road at | KEureka—tThis city is 90 miles south _ of Palisade, and contains, with the near surroundings, a population of 6,000, nearly all of whom are engaged in mining and de- phan pursuits. "eeides the usual num- r of stores, hotels and small shops, there get around pic naan badass works and 16 furnaces, with a capacity of 50 tons of ore each, daily. These extensive establishments, running night and day, make business pretty lively, and will ac- count for the quantities of base bullion hauled over the railroad to Palisade, as | above noticed. Of the hotels, the Jackson } and the Parker are the principal ones. There are two daily papers, the Sentinel and the Republican. | The Ruby Hill railroad, really an ex- | tention of the Eureka & Palisade, runs from the depot at Eureka around the various smelting and refining works and mines of the different mining companies, and around Eureka, delivering freight and handling ores. This road is about six miles in length. The most prominent mines at Eureka are Eureka Consolidated, Rich- | } son, Hamburg, Matamoras and Atlas. CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST tt et th ei een ™ | | The country is| mond Valley, and follows it up to Eureka, | | being two smelters and six mills. GaRDNER Pass—six miles from Summit: t horseshoe curve, and fairly are two 30-stamp mills, seven smelting / mond Consolidated, the K. K., the Jack-| Stages connect at Eureka, carryin sengers, mails and express to the various mining towns and camps in the adjoining country; to Hamilton, 40 miles, daily, which runs through the Ward and Pioche: distance to Ward, 100 miles; Pioche, 190 miles; to Tybo, 100 miles ; Austin, 80 miles; tri-weekly stage to Belmont, 100 miles. The freighting business from Pioche and all intermediate towns and camps is very extensive, most of which is hauled by the Railroad Company’s teams, as previously stated. Tue Wirt Prxe Country, is sit- uated to the southeast from Eureka, the principal city of which is Haminron—This city contains a pop- ulation of about 800, all of whom are en- gaged in the mining business. Milling and smelting are the only occupations, nore English company is now engaged running a tunnel under Treasure Hill, to strike the reat mineral deposit known to be there. 1is tunnel, when completed, will be 6,000 jfeet long—7x9 feet, double track, “T” rail —and will tap the mines at a depth of 1,600 feet. It is now completed about 2,600 feet. Hamilton has one weekly newspaper—the News. Waite Prne—is nearly due east of Vir- ginia City, where the first silve: mining ex- citement occurred on the Pacific slope, and by many is supposed to be on the same range which produced the Comstock and other famous lodes. Possibly such is the case, though “ranges” have been terribly shaken aboutin this section of our country. The Eberhardt mine, which first attracted attention to this locality, was discovered in 1866, but the great stampede of miners and speculators to that quarter did not take place until the winter and spring of 1869. As far as prospected, the veins, in a ma- jority of cases, are not regular, being broken and turned in every direction. Some are flat, others dip at a regular angle and have solid walls. The Base Metal Range in this vicinity is very extensive, and a num- ber of furnaces have been erected to reduce the ores into base bullion for shipment. | For items of interest see ANNEX No. 30. We will now return to Palisade, and re- sume our placein the C.P.cars. Passiag down the canyon, winding and twisting along around a succession of projecting spurs, we pass the “ Devil’s Peak,” on the opposite side of the river, a perpendicular A probably 500 feet high, rising from AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE, the water’s edge. On, past the towering bluffs and castellated recks—which, at first view, look like some old brown castle, for- saken by its founders and left to ruin, deso- lation and decay—we cross the river on a fine Howe truss bridge; and from this point we shall keep on the southern side of the stream until we near Humboldt Lake, when we cross it again, and for the last time. Clare—is a flag station, 104 miles west of Palisade, reached just after emerg- ing from the canyon. We now enter a more open country, with strips of meadow along the river’s brink. Near this point is where the powder magazine of the rail- road company exploded in 1368, while the road was building through the canyon. North of the river, at the point on the opposite side, can be seen a peculiar for- mation, not seen elsewhere in the canyon. Where the road is cut through these points, they consist of gravel, sand and cement, having all the appearance of gold-bearing gravel-beds. It is an unmistakable water- wash, and not caused by volcanic wear— fine layers of sand, from one to five feet thick, and interspersed through the gravel, showing where the water rested and the sediment settled. GRAVELLY Forp—one of the most no- ted points on the Humboldt River in early days, is near Cluro. Then the canyon through which we have just passed was impassable. The long lines of emigrant wagons could not pass through the mighty | chasm, but were obliged to turn and toil over the mountains until they could de. scend into the valley again. Coming to this point on the south side of the river, they crossed and followed up a slope of the ‘opposite hills, thence along the table-land, and from thence to the valley above. A few would leave the river lower down and bear away to the south, but the road was long and rough before ae reached the valley above the canyon. There were and now are other fords on the river, lower down, but none were as safe as this. With sloping gravelly banks and a hard gravel bottom, it offered superior advantages to the emigrant. Hence it became a noted place—the point to which the westward- bound oa ee looked forward with great interest. Here was excellent grazing for their travel-worn teams. Owing tothesecon- siderations, large bodies of emigrants were often encamped here for weeks. At times the river would be too high, and they 109 would wait for the torrent to subside. The Indians—Shoshones—knew this also, and many a skirmish took place between them and their white brothers, caused by mistaken ideas regarding the ownership of the emi- grant’s stock. Connected with this place is an incident which, for the honor of the men who per- formed the Christian act, we will relate: In the early times spoken of, a party of emigrants were encamped here, waiting for the water to subside. Among these emi- srants were many women and children. hile here, an estimable young lady of 18 years fell sick, and despite the watchful care and loving tenderness of friends and kindred, her pure spirit floated into that unknown mist, dividing the real from the ideal, the mortal from the immortal. Her friends reared an humble head-board to her memory, and, in course of time—amid the new life opening to them on the Pacific slope—the young girl’s fate and grave were alike forgotten by all but her immediate relatives. When the advance guard of the Central railroad—the graders and culvert men—came to Gravelly Ford, they found the lone grave and fast-decaying head- board. The site awoke the finer feelings of their nature and aroused their sympa- thies, for they were men, these brown, toil- stained laborers. The “culvert men” (masons) concluded that it was not consistent with Christian usage to leave a grave exposed and unde- fended from the incursion of beasts of prey. With such men, to think was to act, andin a few days the lone grave was enclosed with a solid wall, and across—the sacred emblem of immortality—took the place of the old head-board. In the day when the final reckoning between these men and the recording angel is adjusted, we think they will find a credit for that deed which wi offset many little debits in the ledger of good and evil. Perhaps a fair spirit above may smile a blessing on their lives in rec- ompense of the noble deed. The grave is on the south side of the road, upon a low bluff, about five miles west of Cluro. In October, 1871, the Superintendent of the Division erected over it a fine large cross. “ CorraL,”’ (Spanish) a pen made of posts set on end in the ground close together, and fastened with rawhide thongs, or by wagons drawn in a circle forming an inclosure. TELEGRAPH OrgRaToRs are called “lightning | shoyers.” Ourrit—Necessary supplies for a journey. | 160 | DEN’s Grave,” on the other, her name, “Lucinda Duncan.” Passing on, we cross narrow patches of meadow land, and wind around the base of low hills until we reach a broad valley. Across the river to the northward can be stretch away until they are lost in that cold blue line—the Idaho Mountains—which ina. og the northern sky. Behind that y old peak, which is barely discernible, the head waters of the North Fork of the Humboldt break away when starting on their journey for the main river. Farther to the left, and nearer, from among that | darker clump of hills Maggie’s Creek finds its source. Be-o-wa-we—is reached at a narrow a Copper Canyon, 8.7 miles (rom uro. The Cortez mines and milis are situated about 35 miles south of this station, with which they are connected by a good road. At this point the Red Range throws a spur | nearly across the valley, cutting it in two. It looks as though the spur extended clear across, at one time, damming up the waters of the river, as at the Palisades. The water-wash far up the hillside is in evi- dence of the theory that such was once the case, and that the waters cut this narrow gorge, through which they speed along unmindful of the mighty work done in for- “forced a highway to the sea,” and drained CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Upon one side is inscribed “THz Mar | | seen the long, unbroken slopes which | mer years, when the resistless current | a mighty lake neces. : Sn leaving in its place green | Here, on this red ridge, is the dividing © line between the Shoshones and the Piutes, two tribes of Indians who seemed to be created for the express purpose of worry- ing emigrants, stealing stock, eating grass- | hoppers, and preying on themselves and | everybody else. The Shoshones are very | degraded Indians, and until-recently, were | like the Ishmaelites or Pariahs of old— their hand was against every man, and every man’s hand was compelled, in self- defense, to be against them until they be | came almost unable to commit depreda- tions, and could make more by begging -O- than they could by stealing. The term | wa-we signifies gate, and it is literal in its | significance. After leaving Be-o-wa-we, we pass through the gate, and wind along by the | hillside, over the low meadows, which here | are very narrow. The “bottom” is broad, » but is covered with willows, with the ex- ception of the narrow meadows spoken of. | Amid these willows the stream winds and | twists about through innumerable sloughs | and creeks, as though undecided whether | to leave this shady retreat for the barren plains below. Perhaps the traveler will see a flock of pelicans disporting in the waters on their return from their daily fishing excursion to Humboldt Lake. These birds, atcertain seasons of the year, are to be found here and there along the river for about 20 miles below, in great numbers. They build their nests in these willow islands and rear their young undisturbed, for even an Indian cannot penetrate this swampy, treacherous fastness. Every morning the old birds can be seen taking their flight to Humboldt Lake, where, in its shallow waters, they load themselves with fish, returning towards night to feed their young and ramble about the bottom. Soon after leaving the station, Hot Spring Valley comes in on the left—south —and by looking away to the south eight miles, can be seen columns of steam, from one of the many “hot springs” which abound in the “ Great Basin.” If you do not behold the steam—for the springs are not always in active operation —you will behold a long, yellowish, red line, stretching for a full half-mile around a barren hill-side. From this line boiling, muddy water and sulphuric wash descen the hill-side, desolating everything in its course, its waters escaping through the bogs of the valley. metimes for hours these springs are | inactive, then come little puffs of steam, then long and frequent jets, which often shoot 30 feet high. The waters are very | hot. Woe to the unlucky hombre who ets near and to the windward of one of ese springs, where it sends forth a col- umn of spray, steam and muddy sulphur water from 20 to 30 feet in height. He will need a change of clothes, some simple cerate, a few days’ rest, and the prayers of his friends—as well as of the congregation. There are over 100 of these spurting, bub- bling, sulphuric curiosities around the hills in this vicinity. The general charac- ter of all are about the same. There are a great many theories regard- ing these springs—what causes the heat, ; etc. Some contend that the water escapes from the regions of eternal fires, which are supposed to be ever burning in the center of the globe. Others assert that it is min- eral in solution with the water which causes the heat. Again, irreverent persons suggest that this part of the country is but the roof of a peculiar place to which they may well fear their wicked deeds may doom them in the future. Shoshone—is ten miles west of Be- o-wa-we; elevation 4,636 feet. Across the river to the right is Battle Mountain, which rises up clear and sharp from the river’s brink. Itseems near, but between us and its southern base is a wide bottom land and the river, which here really “spreads itself” We saw the same point when emerging from Be-o-wa-we. or “the gate,” and it will continue in sight for many miles. This mountain derives its name from an Indian fight, the particulars of which will be related hereafter. There are several ranges near by, all bearing the same gene- ral name. This range being the most rominent, deserves a passing notice. It lies north of the river, between the Owyhee Range on the north and the Reese River Mountains on the south. Its base is washed by the river its entire length— from 50 to 75 miles. It presents an al- most unbroken surface and even altitude the entire distance. In places it rises in bold bluffs, in others it slopes away from base to summit, but in each case the same altitude is reached. It is about 1,500 feet high, the top or summit appearing to be pepe land. Silver and copper mines have AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 161 been prospected with good results. Behind this range are wide valleys, which slope away to the river at either end of the range, leaving it comparatively isolated. Opposite to Shoshone, Rock Creek emp- ties its waters into the Humboldt. It rises about 40 miles to the northward, and is bordered by a beautiful valley about four miles wide. The stream is well stocked with fish, among which are the mountain trout. In the country around the head- waters of the stream is found plenty of ng of various kinds, including deer and ar. Copper mines of vast size and great rich- ness are found in the valley of Rock Creek, and among the adjoining hills. Whenever the copper interest becomes of sufficient importance to warrant the opening of these mines, this section will prove oneof great importance. Leaving Shoshone, we pursue our way down theriver, the road leading back from the meadow land and passing along an upland, covered with sage-brush. “The hills on our left are smooth and covered with a good coat of bunch-grass, affording most excellent pasturage for stock, sum- mer and winter. Argenta—is 11.1 miles further west. This was formerly a regular eating station and the distributing point for Austin and the Reese River country; but isnowa sim- ple side-track. Paradise Valley lies on the north side of the river, nearly opposite this station. It is about 60 miles long by eight wide, very fertile and thickly settled. Eden Valley, the northern part of Para- dise Valley, is about 20 miles long and five wide. In general features it rese.nbles the lower portion, the whole, comprising one of the richest farming sections in the State. Camp Scott and Santa Rosa are situated in the head of the valley, and | other small towns have sprung up at other points. Paradise Creek is a clear, cold mountain stream, upon which are a number of grist and saw mills. It rises in the Owyhee Mountains and flowsthrough these valleys to the Humboldt River. Salmon trout of enormous size are found in the stream and its tributaries. Bears, deer, silver-gray foxes, and other game, abound on the hills which border the valley. These valleys—the Humboldt for 50 miles east and west, and the adjoining mountains—are the stock-raisers’ paradise. caeay onan ensiaieiitlnnsisniinaten nabs in from the south. 162 CROFUTY’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Tens of thousands of cattle are now roam- ing along the Humboldt and adjoining valleys, and surrounding hills. It is com- puted that there are not less than 350 000 head between Promontory Mountainand the Sierra Nevada Mountains. One firm near this station has over 40,000 head, and one range fenced of 28,000 acres. A. few miles after leaving Argenta, Reese River Valley joins the Humboldt—comin It is very diversifie | in feature, being very wide at some points | —from seven to ten miles—and then dwin- i HA lace cn inceelatineiasasiniuniiens dling down to narrow strips of meadow or barren sand. Some portions of the valley are susceptible of cultivation, and possess an excellent soil. Other portions are bar- ren sand and gravel wastes, on which only the sage-brush flourishes. This valley is also known by old emigrants as “ Whirl- wind Valley.” and passengers will fre- quently see columns of dust ascending skywards. Reese River, which flows through this valley, rises to the south, 180 to miles distant. It has many tribu- taries, which find their source in the moun- tain ranges that extend on either side of the river its entire length. It sinks in the valley about 20 or 30 miles before reach- ing the Humboldt. During the winter and spring floods, the waters reach the Humboldt, but only in very wet times. Near where Reese River sinks in the valley was fought the celebrated battle be- tween the Whites and Indians—settlers and emigrants, 20 years ago—which gave the general name of Battle Mountain to these ranges. A party of marauding Shoshone Indians had stolen alot of stock from the emigrants and settlers, who banded them- selves together and gavechase. They over- took them at this point, and the fight com- menced. From point to point, from rock to rock, down tothe water’s edge they drove the red skins, who, finding themselves sur- rounded, fought with the stubbornness of despair. When night closed in, the set- tlers found themselves in possession of their stock and a hard-fought field. How many Indians emigrated to the Happy Hunting Grounds of the spirits no one knew, but from this time forward the power of the tribe was broken. From Argenta, itis 11.8 miles to Battle Mountain—This is a din- ner station for passenger trains from both the East and West, where trains stop 30 minutes. The waiters are Chinese, and very lively while serving a good meal. Water for the little fountain in front of the Battle Mountain House, the railroad, and the town, is conducted in pipes from a big spring in the side of the mountain, three miles to the south. There are several stores, hotels, restau- rants and saloons, on the south side of the depot; also some large freight buildings, as this is the distributing point for a great number of mining districts, towns, and camps to the southward. The surrounding country is alive with herds of cattle, particularly on the north side of the river,and this station has be- come quite a point for cattle buyers, from California, to stop at and make their selec- tions. A stage leaves Battle Mountain daily, for Battle Mountain mines, seven miles, Galena, twelve miles, Austin, 90 miles, where connections are made for Eureka, Hamilton, Cortez, Belmont—171 miles—and allintermediate towns. Stages also run to Lewis District, 14 miles, and to Tuscarora, 68 miles, connecting for Rock Creek, twelve miles further, and Cornu- copia, 20 miles. Lewis is a new mining district, 14 miles south, where some rich silver mines have been discovered within the last two years. Fast freight lines leave Battle Mountain daily for most of the cities, towns and dis- tricts above named. The tonnage from Battle Mountain Station averages about 500 per month. The Messenger is a weekly paper published here. Battle Mountain, Galena, and Copper Canyon mining camps are in the moun- tains just south of this station, and further to the south are the mining districts of Reese River, Washington, Kinsley, Cortez, Diamond, Dun Glen, Humboktt, Grass Valley, and several others. In all of these districts rich mines are being worked; stamp mills and smelting furnaces are nu- merous. Since the building of the rail- road, low freights have resulted in the in- troduction of more and better machinery, the reduction in cost of milling ores, and the opening and working of veins of lower grade ores, which could not be profitably worked when wagon freight prices ruled. Battle Mountain Station is in Lander county, the county seat of which is Aus- tin, 90 miles south. Avustin—is situated near the summit of the Toiyabe Range, on the ground where the first silver ore was discovered in this district, in May, 1862. The discoverer, W. ae nipped sncacaani sistas aii Nee eie ELSI ss a ih ictal » SOOSCANS cnc sony e |....6519.. 10:34 10:30 10 :55 4:34 . we ie - {10:10 10307 11:15 4:45 1683... «| 9255 9:45 12 00 m| 5:13 ~- L691 ,, -| 9218 8:35 12:25 ami 5:30 - 1687. +| 8350 7:40 12:50 | 6:58 1702, 8:25 6:50 1:10 6:10 < ‘ -| 8:00 6:10 1 333 6:17 -. 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In 1876, there was 242,609 acres in wheat, which yielded 4,600,000 bushels; of barley there was 34.,- 802 acres, which yielded 806,495 bushels. Returning to DAVISVILLE JUNCTION we start again for the south, through as beau- tiful a farming country as one could wish to see. Just after crossing Putah Creek we come to the great vineyard belonging to a Mr. Briggs. It contains 500 acres, the greater portion of which is devoted to raisin grapes, the balance is in almonds, figs, apricots and other fruits. Fremont—is the first station on the pills, 3.79 miles from Davis, but here trains seldom stop. Drxon—is 4.26 miles from Fremont, and is quite a thrifty town, situated in the midst of a fine agricultural section of So- lanocounty. It has several hotels, a num- ber of stores and one weekly paper—the Tribune. Passing on, 3.3 miles further, BatTavia—appears; a side-track, and shipping point for grain. The country is broad and mostly under cultivation. Eiurra—is 4.84 miles further; popula- tion about 300, most of whom are agricul- turalists. Wheat fields continue. - Here | the Vaca Valley railroad branches off to | the north, through Yolo, the great wheat country, 17 miles to Winters. Cannon—is a flag station, 4.04 miles from Elmira, and 6.47 miles from FarrFieELD—This town is the county '| seat of Solano county, situated on a broad plain, with a population of 1,000, and rapidly increasing. Small schooners come up the slough from the Sacramento River, and a rail-track is completed, south, to Benecia, 17 miles, where it is proposed to cross the river, by ferry, until a bridge can be built, and connect with the railroad from Oakland to Martinez—which is now completed. When this new line is opened it will be only 88 miles from Sacramento to San Francisco—with no grades—a sav- ing over the Livermore Pass route of 52 miles, and only two miles longer than by the Vallejo route, 26 miles of which is by steamboat. From Fairfield, it is 5.38 miles to BripGEPorRT—Just before reaching the station, a short tunnel is passed, through a spur of the western range, which is thrown out to the south, as though to bar our prog- ress, or to shut in the beautiful little valley in the center of which is located the sta- tion. The grade now begins to increase, as our train is climbing the Suscol Hills, which border San Pablo Bay. These hills are very productive, the soil being adobe. To the tops of the highest and steepest hills the grain fields extend, even where machinery cannot be used in harvesting. In the valley through which we have | passed are several thriving towns, but the railroad does not go near enough for us to see them. From Bridgeport, 3.83 miles brings the train to CreEston—but it will not stop, but roll down through the hills bordering the bay, 3.7 miles to Napa JuncTrion—Here we are in Napa Valley, which is on the west; beyond are | the Sonoma hills, over which is the So- noma Valley; to the southward San Pablo Bay. At this junction, we meet the Napa Valley branch, which runs north to Calis- toga, 35 miles. (For-adescription of this branch, see page 220.) Continuing, our route 1s now south, along the base of the hill we have just crossed, which also runs south to the Straits of Carquinez, the outlet of the Sacramento River, which flows into San Pablo Bay. The Farr Grounps of the counties of Napa and Sonoma are passed, on the right, 3.2 miles, and three. miles further appears North Vallejo, and 1.1 miles more, South Vallejo, where the steamboat lays, which conveys passengers over San Pablo and San Francisco Bays, 26.25 miles to the City of San Francisco. o0s.--Oakland Wharf)... c0. fence 14... ..|12295 72:00 am a a oo ‘eter ieemernetineeenemseary remo ———vereonnene semen | .-7Sen Fernando.........1-.-% 1066. .] 2:05 10:20 pm 11315 1:35 Lo VEOR dyes vecc ces Sepulveda...........1.. ~ 461...) 1235 11:15 11:55 ami1:55 pm!...a70...{Ar..... t+tLOS ANGELKS.....Lv' ... 265..11:15 pm'10:35 am +Day Telegraph. Cerro Gordo Freighting Co., who do most of this freight hauling, employ 700 head of animals. Stages leave Mojava every alternate day, ing passengers, mails and express to Darwin, 100 miles; Cerro Gordo, 125 miles ; Lone Pine, 150 miles, and Independence, 168 miles to the northeast; fare, 14 cents per mile. Mojava is the commencement of the Los Angeles Division. The proposed route of the Southern Pacific railroad—as successor of the rights granted to the old Atlantic and Pacisic Co., to the Colorado River, at the Needles—diverges at this point, and runs due east. The lowest point of the Mojava Plains crossed by the railroad sur- vey, is at the sink of the Mojava River, 183 miles east. Its elevation is 960 feet, the highest point being 3,935 feet, at the summit of Granite Pass. The crossing of the Colorado, at the Needles, is 254 miles east from Mojava. Leaving Mojava, our course is south, over the desert, from which rise great numbers of round buttes; they are of all sizes, from a halfacre at the base, to several acres; from one hundred to five hundred feet in height. Most of these buttes run to a peak, and are grooved or worn out by the elements into small t Day and Night Telegraph. ' * Meals. Note Elevations. ravines, from summit to base, presenting a peculiar appearance. The cactus, or palms, are very numerous. Passing GuosTER, 6.6 miles from Mo- java, where there is not even a side-track, and 7.2 miles further, we arrive at Sand Creek—where trains seldom stop. To the left, ten miles, is Mirage Lake, which looks like water, but is mostly sand and alkali. (For a descrip- tion of this remarkable phenomena, see page 169.) Solidad Mountain can now be seen on our right, through which our road finds a way, but where and fow, does not appear. Large numbers of sheep range over these plains at times, and appear to thrive. From Sand Creek, it is eleven miles to LANCASTER, a side-track, and 10.9 miles further we come to Alpine—For the last twenty miles the palms have been very numerous, but we shall soon leave them and the desert. Scrub cedar, sand cuts—some very deep— are now in order, while rapidly climbing up to the summit of the Solidad Pass, which we reach four miles from Alpine, crossing them at an elevation of 3,211 feet, and then descend to Acton—a distance of 9.7 miles from Alpine. This is an unimportant station AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 243 near the head of the infamous Solidad Canyon, known as the “ Robbers’ Roost.” This canyon is a deep Borge, with rugged, towering mountain cliffs rising on each side, in places from 500 to 2,006 feet above the bed of the canyon, the fronts of which look as though ,they had been slashed by the hand of the great Architect, from summit to base, into nar- row, deep ravines, and then left, present- ing as wild, gloomy and dismal gorges as the most vivid imagination can conceive. These, with the dense growth of pines, cedar and shrubs, make the mountains almost impenetrable, and all that the most wary villain could desire. The canyon is about 25 miles in length, inhabited mostly by Mexicans. It was the headquarters and home of the noted Vasques, and his robber band, who was hung at San Jose, March 19,1875. Later, a band of a dozen or more raided Caliente, binding and gaging all who came in their way, and after loading their riding ani- mals with all they could carry, returned to this their rendezvous. By a shrewd plan, five of the number were captured, and lodged in jail at Bakersfield, from which they were taken by the citizens and hung without much expense to the county. But with all their devilment, the trains and railroad property have always been secure. At the next station, the brother of this noted chief resides, against whom, as we understand, there stand no accusations, Passing on down, the canyon widens, and cottonwood, sycamore and a few oaks and willows line the little creek, which ripples over the sands. Mining, to some extent, is carried on by the Mexicans living here, but in a primitive way, using arastras, with water, horse, hand, and, in three cases, steam power. Ravena—is the next station, 3.7 miles from Acton. Here are located a village of several dozen log, sod and stone houses, be- longing to the Mexicans, and the paper mill, before alluded to, as utilizing the yucca palm for making paper. We were told at this place that “moss agates and grizzly bears abound,” but just why the two should be coupled together, we are not informed. About one mile below Ravena, on the left, away up on the side of the mountain, 600 feet above our train, is a huge rock, called George Washington, from the fact that it bears a striking likeness to the “father of his country,” who, it seems has left his impress all over his country. Continuing down, the canyon narrows; the bluffy walls on each side assume more formidable features, and in fact is the most formidable portion of the can- yon, the rugged spurs shooting out as though they would bar our farther progress. Two of these spurs did bar the progress of our way, until tunnels were completed penuee them, which aggregate 596 feet in ength. Timber can be seen on the tops of the mountains, and in the largest of the deep ravines, but inaccessible, from the un- usual ruggedness of its surroundings. Limerock abounds and game, both large and small, is very numerous, including the grizzly bear. When we passed this way in January, 1878, Mr. Lang, of Lang’s Station, close ahead, had killed one of these bears that weighed 900 pounds, and Lang called it a small one. Lang—is asmall station, 8.5 miles be- low Ravena, and about half-a-mile west of where the “last spike” was driven, Sept. oth, 1876, that united the line, building from Los Angeles and San Francisco. The bottom, below the station, widens, sand hills and sand beds appear, as well as sheep, on the adjoining hills, which are now lower, with grassy sides; and 10.1 miles from Lang, and our train stops at Newhall—a station where are large pens and shutes for loading cattle and sheep. This station is in the midst of a small val- ley, named for a Mr. Newhall, who owns several hundred thousand acres of land in the vicinity, on which range immense num- bers of cattle and sheep. Stages leave this station daily for Ven- tura, 50 miles; Santa Barbara, 80 miles; San Louis Obispo, 190 miles; Paso-Robles Hot Springs, 220, and Solidad, 300 miles, at the end of the Southern Pacific railroad, in Salinas Valley, as noted in excursion No. 5. These stages carry passengers, mails and express. We now confront the San Fernando Mountains on the south, which rise up be- fore us, towering to the skies, in one great black solid mass, apparently presenting an impenetrable barrier to our further progress. Such was the case until the engineers of this road, failing to find any way overthem, resolved to pierce through them, which was done, resulting in a tunnel 6,967 feet long, built in a straight line and timbered all the way. These mountains, as stated, are high, rising up out of the valley from 244 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 2,500 to 8,000 feet, but narrow—a_ huge |our road is built, is covered with sage- “hog-back” ridge. Leaving Newhall, it is 8.6 miles to : Andrews—To the west of this station, | brush, cactus, grease-wood, small cedars and mesquite shrubs. The station is of little account—only a about four miles, are located several oil | few buildings, a store, hotel, cattle pen and wells, in a region said to be very rich in oil. Two refineries have been established at this station, which furnish for shipment about one car-load per day. Live oaks and some white oaks are numerous along the road and on the sides of the low-hills, for the last fifteen miles, making the country look more cheerful than it other- wise would. Leaving Andrews, we soon commence to ascend, passing through deep cuts to the San Fernanpo TunNEL—This tunnel, as before stated, is 6,967 feet in length, timbered all the way, and is reached from the north up a grade of 116 feet per mile; . grade in tunnel, 87 feet per mile; grade be- yond tunnel—south—for five miles, 106 feet per mile; elevation of tunnel, 1,469 teet. The view, from the rear end of the car, while passing through the tunnel, is quite an interesting one. The light, on entering the great bore, is large and bright, the smooth rails glisten like burnished silver in the sun’s rays. Gradually the light lessens in brilliancy; the rails become two long ribbons of silver, sparkling through the impenetrable dark- ness; gradually these lessen, the light fades—and fades, and fades—the entrance is apparently not larger than a pin’s head, and then all light is gone and darkness reigns supreme—and still we are not through. It is the history of many a life: the bright hopes of youth expire with age. As we emerge from the tunnel, the valley of San Fernando dawns a bright vision of beauty upon us. Here we enter, as it were, a new world of verdure and fruitfulness—a Jand literally “flowing with milk and honey.” From the tunnel we have de- scended rapidly, 5.2 miles to San Kermando—named for the famous old mission of San Fernando, lo- cated about two miles to the right, embow- ered in lovely groves of orange, lemon and olive trees. It is in the middle of the valley of the same name, surrounded by moun- tain ranges. The San Fernando Moun- tains are on the east and north, the Coast Range on the West, and the Sierra Santa Monica on the west and south. The greater portion of the western and central part of the valley is under a high state of cultivation, but the eastern, along where shutes make up the place. Leaving the station, we pass groves of planted trees; those on the right, of the eucalypti species. Sepulyeda—is the next station, 12.5 miles southof San Fernando. It is situated on the east bank of Los Angeles River, where passenger trains meet and pass. Continuing along down the valley—which now begins to present an improved appear- ance—-8.6 miles we come to Hast Los Angeles. Los Angeles Junction—is sit- uated about one mile east of the city, from which street-cars run regularly; fare, 10 cents or four tickets for 25 certs. The principal hotels, the Pico and St. Charles, charge from $2 to $3 per day; the United States and Lafayette from $1.50 to $2.00, all of which send buses to the depot, on ar- rival of trains. Leos Angeles !—Ah, here we are at the “City of the Angels!’ Los Angeles is the county seat of Los Angeles county, situated on the Los Angeles River, 24 miles north from the port of San Pe:lro; but the principal shipping point is at Wilmingtoy, about two milesahove San Pedro, at the head of the bay, with which it is connected by railroad 22 miles dis- tant. It is also connected with Santa Monica by rail, 18 miles to the westward, where steamers land from up and down the coast. The city contains a population of about 16,000—has many fine busincss blocks, three banks, several large, fine hotels, chief of which is the Pico. The churches and schools are all that could be desired, both in numbers and quality. There are four daily, seven weekly, and a number of miscellaneous publications. The dailies are: the Star, Hxupress Herald, and the Republican. Water for irrigation in the city is sup- plied by Los Angeles River, and by wind- mills. The manufactories are not very numerous, the shops of the Railroad Com- pany being the principal ones. The town is a railroad center, commanding an ex- tensive trade at present, and in the future itfears no rival. It is already connected with Santa Monica, on the west, 18 miles; Wilmington, on the south, 22 miles; Santa Ana, on the southeast, 33 miles; Yuma, on the east, 248 miles, and San Francisco, | AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 245 north, 470 miles. Los Angeles is an old town, having been settled in 1771. Itislocated atthe southern base of the Sierra Santa Monica range on a_ gradual slope, and is completely embowered in foliage. The vineyards, in and around the city, are very numerous; they are to be seen on all sides, equaled only by the number of orange, lemon, and fruit orchards. It is really a city of gardens and groves. Then, as one rides to the westward, or the southward, mag- nificent plantations stretch away as far as the eye can reach. Here is the wealth of the tropics; here can be seen the orange, lemon, lime, pomegranate, fig, and all kinds of tropical and semi-tropical. fruits, at- taining to the greatest perfection; here will be seen the huge palm-tree, the banana, the beautiful Ttalian and Monterey cypress, the live oak, pepper, and the eucalyp- tus, as well as the orange and lemon trees in the grounds and parks, gar- dens and lawns, of almost every citizen’s residence. One orchard—situated in the heart of the city, the “ Wolfkill *—con- tains 100 acres. In this orchard are 2,600 orange trees, 1,000 lime, and 1,800 lemon trees; besides, there are adjoining 100 acres in vineyard. But why particularize? Look where you will, and you will see vineyards and orchards laden with luscious fruits, and will be ready to exclaim: “Why, oh, why was ‘mother Eve’ driven out?” Leaving Los Angeles, we will take the cars on the Los ANGELES AND INDEPENDENCE Rat1- ROAD— under the management of the “Central” Company, of which W. J. L. Moulton is Assistant Superintendent, and speed away to the westward. The first few miles is through the edge of the city, and then past a succession of vineyards, YUCCA PALM OF MOJAVA DESERT. See page 241. orange and fruit orchards, nurseries and groves of planted trees. Then come broad fields and pretty little farm-houses ; then through a succession of deep sand cuts, and the broad ocean appears, and then Santa Momnica—called by some the “Long Branch of the Pacific Coast.” It is certainly a beautiful location, and if it does not attain the same popularity as its namesake, on the Jersey shore, it will not be for lack of natural advantages. Its location is one of surpassing loveliness— infront the Pacific Ocean; in the back- ground the noble range of the Sierra Madre. Far out to the seaward looms up mistily the island of Catalina. The facili- ties for bathing could hardly be better. The beach is fine, the sand hard and smooth, and the slope gradual, with no terrors of undertow to appal timid swim- mers. The place is protected from cold winds by a pruminent head-land, and the climate Is very equable. 246 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST The following table shows the mean tem- perature of January and July in Califor- nia and other States and countries, taken from reliable sources: Differ- | {Jan'y |July. ence. Place. Latitude Deg’e |Deg’e peas Deg. min. San Francisco..| 49 48 Monterey ....... 52 5 6 | 36 36 Santa Barbara ..| 54 q 17.434... 4 Los Angeles... 52 Ws 23 | 34 04 Santa Monica...| 52 69 17 | 34 02 San Diego ..... 51 2 21 )32 41 Sacramento..... 45 % 28 | 38 84 Humboldt Bay..| 40 58 18 |40 44 Sonoma ........ 45 66 21 | 38 18 Vallejo....:..... 48 67 19 | 38 05 Fort Yuma......] 56 92 36 | 32 43 Cincinnati. ..... 30 %4 44 j; 39 06 New York ...... 31 UG 42 | 40 37 New Orleans....| 55 82 27 | 29 57 Naples......... 46 76 30 140 8&2 Honolulu........ 71 78 4 2h 16 MGXIC0....2005.>] BR 65 13 19 26 London. .......-5 37 62 25 | Sl 29 Bordeaux... ... 41 %3 32 144 50 Mentone ........ 40 3 33 | 43 41 Marseilles ...... 43 G 3 148 17 Genos.........-.] 46 TT 31 444 24 Tt will be seen by referring to the above table that Southern California possesses a climate unexcelled in equability by any portion of the world, and of the happiest medium between the extremes of heat and cold. Santa Monica has these advantages of temperature in a special degree, the air being modified by the ocean to a point most agreeable and invigorating, both to the pleasure-seeker and the invalid. The bathing house, situated on the beach, about fifty feet above the water, is the finest on the coast. It is a large building supplied with baths of all kinds, where the bathers have within reach, faucets by which a supply of either fresh or salt water, hot or cold, can be instantly obtained by the effort of turning them on. Here, too, are steam, swimming, and plunge baths, be- sides the ordinary ocean baths, accommo- dations for which ample provision is made. Santa Monica was first laid out as a town in 1875, and in two years attained a popu- lation of 800. It has some good stores, and quite a number of good hotels, chief of which are the Santa Monica Hotel, and Ocean House; the latter has accommoda- tions for about 50 guests, and the former for 125. These houses are so situated as to command a most extensive view. Their charges are from $12 to $18 per week. Santa Monica has its newspaper—the Out- look; an enterprising weekly, edited and published by L. F. Fisher, Esq., who is thor- oughly alive to the advantages of the town. oint Dumas, a prominent head-land to the northwest, is 18 miles distant. Point Vincent, to the southwest, is 20 miles distant. Santa Rosa Island, west, is 91 miles distant; Santa Barbara Island, south of west, is 25 miles distant; San Nicholas Island, 87 miles in the same direction, and Santa Catalina Island, south, is about 40 miles distant. These islands are a great protection to Santa Monica from the wrath of old Pacific, when he becomes excited. The wharf at the end of the railroad is built out into the bay, to deep water, where steamers stop regularly on their trips up and down the coast. In the range of the mountains on the north, game of many varieties can be found, and in the lagoons south of the town, ducks, geese, snipe, curlews, and other varieties of game are abundant. The drives are very fine, being along the beach for many miles, and then, on the high plateau 500 feet above, extending for many niles, affording a most extended view; or, up to the natural springs on the side of the mountain, which furnish the town with water, bubbling up like a fountain, and is caught in a large basin or pond, for city use. A popular excursion is up Santa Mo. nica Canyon to Manville Glen—a wild, rugged mountain-place covered with old forest trees, down which ripples one of the neatest little brooks imaginable. The point of the mountain above has become a very popular camping ground, where camps are made, and parties spend months in rambling over the mountains and en- joying the ocean baths, etc. There are some beautiful country resi- dences about Santa Monica, among which is one of Senator Jones, of Nevada. Returning to Los Angeles, we take the Wi~mMineton Drviston—and start di- rectly south through a succession of vine- yards, gardens, orange and fruit orchards, to FLORENCE, six miles from Los Angeles. At this station the track of the San Diego Division branches off to the left. But we continue south, through broad, well-culti- vated fields, where the good effects of irfi- gation are shown, by large crops of vege- tables, which abound in the section we are now traversing. Gradually the rich soil gives place to alkaline and salt flats, and sloughs, with occasionally a few bands of sheep on the more elevated lands. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. mington, we pass, on the right, embowered in trees, the old headquarters of the Mili- tary Department, of Southern California and Arizona, abandoned in 1870. When the Government had no further use for the property it was sold, and is now used by the Protestants, and called Wilson’s College. Wilmington contains a population of about 500, most of whom are engaged in the shipping interests. At the long wharf are great warehouses, beside which, vessels drawing twelve feet of water, can lay and load and unload from and into the cars of the railroad, which run the whole length of the wharf. Vessels drawing 15 feet of water can cross the bar, two miles below, but are unable to reach the wharf, and ‘are unloaded two miles below. Inside the bar is a ship channel, per- fectly sheltered, several miles in length, with a width of from 400 to 500 feet, and a depth, at low tide, of from 20 to 25 feet, shoaling at its head to 12 feet. The Government has expended over halfa million of dollars to improve the harbor at this place; the breakwater is 6,700 feet long, and when completed, it will be of incalculable advantage to the people of this section of country. Wilmington isa point where immense 247 * i | re About two miles before reaching Wil-| quantities of ties and redwood lumber are landed from the Humboldt Bay country, 200 miles north of San Francisco, on the coast, and also where are landed large quantities of coal from the Liverpool ves- sels that come hereto load with grain. The coal is brought for ballast, more than for profit. Rattlesnake Island is in front of the har- bor—sand principally San Pedro Point is two miles south, and Point Fermin, around that point to the west, reached by wagon-road around the beach or over the bluffs, six miles distant, Deadman’s Island isa small,isolated rocky peak, where commences the breakwater improvement below Point Pedro. Fermin Point is on the most prominent headland on the west, surmounted with a light of the first order, [which is kept by two ladies.| Near this point, ¢n stone, is the subject of our illustration, below, ‘called San Pedro’s Wife or the “ WoMAN OF THE PERIOD.” The distance from Wilmington by steamer to San Francisco is 387 miles; to San Diego, 95 miles; to Santa Catalina Island, 20 miles. This Island is owned by the Lick estate, is 835 miles long and ten wide, on which are some gold mines, and | great numbers of sheep and goats. SAN PEDRO’S WIFE OR, THE WOMAN OF THE PERIOD. 248 The Island San Clemente is 30 miles further, a long, narrow strip of land, on which there is no water, where range thousands of sheep and goats, which seem to thrive better than on Santa Catalina Island, where water is abundant. Returning again to Los Angeles. we start over the San Diego Division. Leaving Los Angeles, the course is the same as over the Wilmington route to Florence, six miles south, where our route turns to the left. Leaving Florence, we cross the Los Angeles River, along which aresome broad, rich bottom lands, passing large groves of eucalyptus trees, and 5.5 further come to Downey——This is a thrifty town of agriculturalists, about 500 in number, with some good buildings. The Central Hotel is the principal hotel. The country is flat, and vineyards and orange orchards are to be seen at different places, over which the waters of San Gabriel River are con- ducted in numerous canals and ditches Leaving the station, we soon cross San Gabriel River, note the existence of many sycamore trees, some oaks and many “Gum-trees,” and four miles are at NorwaLKk—tThis is a new station, in the center of a broad fertile valley, with only the smaller portion undercultivation Con- tinuing on, Over a grassy plain, where are a few trees, and a few alkali beds, we pass Costa, 6.3 miles from Norwalk, and roll along through an improving country. The La Puente Hills are on our left, beyond which rise the San Gabriel Mountains. From Costa it is 3.6 miles to ANAHEIM—Here we are at a live town of 1,500 population, which, from the car win- dows, presents a beautiful appearance, with its long rows of trees and beautiful fields. A run through the town will reveal the fact that it contains many fine buildings, some of which are devoted to merchandis- ing, besides good churches, fine schools, two good hotels—the Planters and the Anaheim, and one sll ge Ag Gazette. The town is embowered in foliage; tall poplar trees, cypress, eucalyptus, orange, pepper, castor bean, palm and many other trees are among the number seen everywhere. Here we find extensive irrigating canals and a complete net-work of ditches, con- ducting the water through the streets and over the grounds in all directions, A great number of the private residences are OFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ee ee painted white, (not a very common thin in California,) and look very chontul: Leaving Anaheim, we cross a sandy bot- tom, and then Santa Anna River, over a long bridge, pass ORANGE, a small hamlet jon the left—where isa grove of planted trees—and 4.9 miles from Anahiem, and two | miles further come to Santa Ana—This town is 33.3 miles | southeast of Los Angeles, and about half a mile west of the depot, where is now tte end of the road, and where a town is being laid off, called East Santa Ana. Santa Ana is situated about one and half miles south of Santa Anna River, and like Ana- heim, is embowered in trees and _ sur- rounded by vineyards, orchards and the | best of land, under a high state of cultiva- tion. There are some large stores in the town and good brick buildings, several fine churches, good schools, three hotels—chief | of which 1s the Santa Ana Hotel—one | daily and two weekly newspapers; the News and the Times are weekly, and the Free Lance is a small, live daily. Newport Landing is eight miles west of Santa Ana, where most of the steamers call, on their way up and down the coast. A good wagon road leadsfrom Santa Ana to the Landing, and also extends eastward to San Bernardino, 40 miles distant. The road was built by the counties of Los Angeles and San Bernardino. The new Black Star coal mines are sit- uated about twelve miles northeast, and are said to be extensive and the coal of good quality. To the east is the high range of the Sierra De Santa Anna Mountains, on the eastern slope of which are located the Temeseal Tin mines. Some of the lands surrounding Santa Ana and to the south and west for many miles, called “ safe lands,” willraise a good crop without irrigating, but the greater portion requires the water—to supply which a company is now engaged building a canal to take the waters of the Santa Anna River | away tothe eastward. The canal will be 18 miles long, and will furnish ample water for 20,000 acres of land. Stages leave Santa Ana daily for San Juan Capistrano, southeast 24 miles; fare $2.50; San Louis Rey, 65 miles; fare, $5.00; also to San Diego, 100 miles, and all inter- mediate points. San Dreco—As this is reached from Santa Ana, the nearest point by rail and stage, it seems to be the proper place for a short description of the town. San Diego STATE CAPITOL OF C N NY Na iy Aint \y (16.) ALIFORNIA, (See Annex No. 15.) AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 249 was first settled by the Jesuit missionaries, in 1769, and is the oldest town in the State. It is a port of entry, and the county seat of San Diego county. It is situated on San Diego Bay, which, for its size, is the most sheltered, most secure and finest harbor in the world. The bay is 12 miles long and two miles wide, with never less than 30 feet of water at low tide, and a good, sandy bot- tom. By act of Congress, it is the western terminus ofthe Texas & Pacific railroad, but when that road will be built, if ever, isa problem, the solution of which, all the citizens of San Diego, about 5,000 in num- ber, are exceedingly anxious to have demonstrated, and there is little question but what they would all elect to have it built without delay. The city is connected by steamer with San Francisco, 456 miles north, and by stage to allinland towns. It is 14 miles north of the dividing line be- tween Upper and Lower California, and is destined to make a city of great importance. Tropical fruit of every variety is produced in the county, and the climate is one of the finest in the world, the thermometer never falling below 40 deg. in the winter, or rising above 80 deg. inthe summer. The country is well timbered and well watered, producing large crops of all kinds of grain, fruit and vegetables. Gold, silver and tin ores have recently been discovered, which promise at this time to be very extensive and-»profitable. Several quartz mills have been erected. Two weekly papers are pub- lished at San Diego—the World and Union. San JUAN CapisTRANo, is a quiet, sleepy, conservative old town, twenty-four miles from Santa Ana, situated in the center of a beautiful little valley, hemmed in on three sides, in a variegated frame-work of emerald hills, with the broad Pacific Ocean on the west, gleaming like a mirror at mid-day, and glowing like a floor of burnished gold at sunset: Here is located the old mission, which gave its name to the town. It was founded in 1776, and is situated on an eminence, commanding a view of the surrounding country, with ex- , tensive orchards of orange, lemon, olive | and other trees, planted nearly 100 years ago, which continue to bear abundantly. To the south of the town is the Rancho Boca de la Playa, of 7,000 acres: Rancho Neguil, of 12,000 acres, and the Rancho Mission _ Viejo, on the east, of 46,000 acres. These _ ranchos include a great deal of good agricul- - tural land, but now the greater portion is | used for pasturage. a ne ee en Sen en GosPpEL Swamp—This singularly pro- ductive region is situated a few miles north of west from Santa Ana, the soil of which is very similar to that about the “ Mussel Slough” and Lake Tulare, heretofore noted. The soil is wholly composed of the richest sedimentary deposit, the decomposition of vegetable matter that has been going on since the creation of the world. In this section, all kinds of vegetables attain im- mense proportions, so large that we dare not givethe figures. This isthe pumpkin’s home. Pumpkins weighing 320 to 340 Ibs. are not uncommon in this region. A single vine produced in 1877, 1,400 lbs. of pumpkins | without any further care than putting the | seed in the ground—and it was a poor year | for pumpkins at that. Corn is the princi- pal crop, in gathering which they find much difficulty, owing to the height of the stalks. If some enterprising Yankee | would invent a portable elevator with a graduated seat and revolving buckets for holding the ears of corn, he could find in this section an extensive field in which to operate. Returning once more to Los Angeles, and for the dst t¢me, we take our old seat, and start for SunRIsH, at Yuma. [See Time Table, next page.| Leaving Los Angeles, our course is south about one mile—on the track we have been over several times—then to the left, and finally due east, crossing the Los Angeles River, just beyond which is the 80-acre vineyard of Mr. Sabichi, and follow up a little valley. On the right are low, rolling grass-covered hills, around which are many little cottages nestling cosily beneath a wreath of foliage, consist- ing of orange and other fruit-trees. We are now on an ascending grade, and shall continue to be, for the next 80 miles. To the left, about four miles, is located | Pasapena—(Key of the Valley)—quite commonly known asthe “ Indiana Colony,” a new and beautiful settlement northeast from Los Angeles about seven miles, and three miles from the old mission of San Gabriel. Five years ago this position was occupied only by the one adobe house of a Spaniard, Gartias, who once owned the ranche. A company of eastern men, largely from Indiana, purchased the tract, with an abundant water privilege arising in the Arroyo Seco Canyon, and nearly every one of the sub-divided tracts of 714, 15 or 30 acres each was taken within a year by actual settlers, and these, almost without a sp CS eit inl cline emanates alain lil ballin ivabogsnslinoc eet 250 , LIN TART YUMA DIVISION. From Los Angeles to Yuma. E. E. Hewrrt, Asst. Supt. TOWARDS LOS ANGELES TOWARDS SUNBIBE. TIME. SUNDOWN. ally jo 3 ally Express ise STATIONS. 5 | Express Mixed. |2§ 3 | Mixed. An a 2:25 pm|.470\Ly.tL. Angeles.Ar .265|10715 am 3:10 479). San Gabriel. .|.400] 9:40 3:20 -482| _.. Savanna. ..|.--.| 9:30 3:30 455). +Monte...... 266) 9:25 4300 * |.490) |. Puente.. -823] 9:00 * 4:45 “500... .¢Spadra .....|- 706} 8:30 5:05 ee +Pomona,....|-856] 8:20 5:40 * -513]_.. Cucamonga... |-952| 7:50 * 6:30 + =| -528) ¢Colton...... -965) 6:35 + 7:30 * -531] "Mound City... |1055) 6:25 * 8:25* =| .542] El Casco. ... |1874| 5:85 * 9:10* |.551| | San Gorgonio. . 5:00 * 9:32 * -557 ..--. Banning. .... cose] 200 * 10:05 -563]" | +Cabazon..... 1779) 4:00 10:40 * -571 ..,White Water... 1126) 3:22 * 11:07* =| .579) "Seven Palms...|-584| 2:45 * 12:15 * am}.600)....... Indio. ....|beltw| 1:35 * 12:55 613)... Walters......|psivy/12:55 a m 1:50 .630|. Dos Palmas... |pety|11:50 2:07 * —|.641|..Frink’s Spring... |bel'w/11205 * 3:30 * .659|..Flowing Well.. baler 10:00 * 3:50 * | 555 cEmaree Tortuga..... .183] 9:40 * 4:10* |.671/.Mammoth Tank. | .257| 9:20 * 4:50 * | 682|..... Mesquite... ... +294; 8:40 * 5:40 * thee oe Cactus...... "396| 7250 * 6:25 * |..10}....-Pilot Knob....|.285) 7:05.* 7:00 a m}..19'Ar...¢Yuma. Lv!.123' 6:30 pm * Trains stop only on signal. + Meals. + Day Telegraph. Note Elevation and Depressions. exception, eastern families of the highest class and of comfortable means. Young orange orchards, just commencing to bear, now form the principal feature of the town; its abundant mountain water is distributed to hydrants, bath-rooms and fountains in and about each house; the dry-bed of the Arroyo, on its western edge, furnishes abundant wood; the Sierra Madra or San Fernando range bounds and guards its northern side, and its site overlooks the whole San Gabriel Valley. THE man that sat down ina ‘reserved seat,” occupied by a wasp, is now standing up more than he was. CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST The Lake Vineyard Association has | more recently opened up a fine tract, bor- dering Pasadena on the east, and the two settlements, now blending into one, have some seventy houses, many of them very handsome, a Presbyterian and a Methodist church, two school-houses, stores, shops |and a daily mail. Not alone those who _ have their pretty homes and orange groves there think it the most desirable of all California’s delightful spots, but unpreju- diced travelers, who have seen the whole, acknowledge that here, indeed, as its Spanish name asserts, is the “key of the valley ’’ and that valley the far-famed and Eden like San Gabriel. In visiting the orange groves and old Mission Church of this locality it will more than pay to turn aside the two or three miles necessary in order to see Pasadena and Lake Vineyard. To the right, before reaching the next station, several huge palm trees can be seen, like those shown on the foreground of our illustration, on page 256. They are the fan palm, great numbers of which are to be seen on our route hereafter. Passing up through the little valley, 9.2 miles from Los Angeles, we come to San Gabriel—tThe station is on a broad plateau gently sloping from the mountains on the left. Far to the right, away down on the San Gabriel River, em- bowered in all kinds of fruit trees, and sur- rounded by vineyards, is the old, Old San Gabriel Mission, founded Sept. 8th, 1771. All the old missions in California—twenty- one in number—were founded by members of the Order of San Francisco, who were sent out by the college of San Fernando, in the City of Mexico, who were of the order of Franciscan Friars. The orange orchard at the Mission was the first planted, as the Mission was the first founded in California by the old Padres. Some of the trees are very large, and continue to bear the best of fruit. The ‘“Wolfkill” orchard in Los Angeles is the next in age, and the second in size. To the north of this station, two miles distant, is situated the LARGEST ORANGE ORCHARD IN CALI FORNIA—It is owned by L. J. Rose, Esq., and contains 500 acres. In this orchard are orange trees of all sizes, loaded with fruit the year round. Besides oranges, sreat numbers of lemon, lime, almond, sie walnut, and many other varieties of fruits and nuts, are raised here to the greatest perfection. Pomegranates, 5,000 in AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 251 number, are growing here, planted by Gen. Stoneman. The town of San Gabriel is located about one and a half miles north of the station, and is completely embowered in foliage, among which are all the varieties of orna- mental trees, fruit trees, vines, and flowers, grown on the Pacific Coast, the citizens seemingly having taken great pains, to procure some of every kind of tree and shrub, with which to beautify their other- wise beautiful town. We have referred to the old, Old Mis. sion, now we will refer to the Old Mission Church, which is located close on our left, just before reaching this station. It is ina dilapidated condition, but the bells are still hanging in plain view from the cars, which were wont to call the faithful to their devotions, long before the “blarsted Yankees” invaded the country. The Sierra Madre Villa is a finely ap- pointed hotel, situated about three miles from the station, away up on the foot-hills 1,800 feet above the level of the sea. It is in a most beautiful location, overlooking the whole valley of Los Angeles, Santa Monica and Wilmington, with thousands of acres in orange and fruit orchards, and in vineyards, in the foreground, and in the rear the towering mountains. From springs in these mountains the sparkling waters are conducted in pipes, and com- pelled to do duty in the fountains in front of the Villa, in every room in the house, and for irrigating 3,000 orange, lemon, and other fruit trees adjoining the hotel. This is a lovely place to sojourn—if not forever, certainly for a season. At this Villa is the best of accommodation for about 50 guests, at charges from $12 to $15 per week. Close to the station, on the left, the tour- ist will find a variety of cactus not hereto- fore seen on this route. There are over two hundred varieties—so we are told—of these cactus plants. The ones at this station grow about ten feet high, and are of the pad species, 7.¢., they grow, com- mencing at the ground, in a succession of great pads, from eight inches in width to fifteen inches in length, and from one to three inches in thickness. These pads are covered with sharp thorns, and grow one upon the other, connected by a tough stem, round and about two inches in diameter. These cacti bear a kind of fruit of a pleasant flavor, which is used principally by the Indians or Spanish-Mexican resi- ents. From San Gabriel, we continue up the plateau, with the valley of San Gabriel River on the right, 2.5 miles to Savanmna—where are well-cultivated fields, groves and vineyards. Passing on 1.4 miles further is Monte—This is a thriving town of several hundred families in the most pro- ductive portion of San Gabriel Valley. Here corn and hogs are the staples, and hog and hominy the diet. The settlers raise immense fields of corn, and feed great numbers of hogs for market—in fact, this is the most hogish section yet visited, but we suppose the Monte men would bristle up if they were told so. Passing on, more to the southward, we soon cross San Gabriel River, which here has a broad, sandy bed. Sheep are raised in great numbers in this and the section of country traversed for the next 50 miles. Puente—is the next station, 6.2 miles from Monte, where trains only stop on signal. It is situated on the east bank of San Jose Creek, beyond which and the west is the La Puente Hills. Most of the bottom land is fenced and cultivated, the settlers being mostly Spanish or Mexicans. Coursing around to the left, up San Jose Creek, along which will be found many Mexican houses and herds of sheep, ten miles brings our train to Spadra—elevation 706 feet. This isa small place of ascore or more of dwell- ings, several stores, and one hotel, and is the home of an old Missouri gentleman, familiarly called Uncle Billy Rubottom, whose house is in a grove just opposite the station on the right,a few hundred yards from the depot. He has lived here near 30 years, and keeps “open house” for all his friends, in real old Southern style. He can often be seen at the depot mounted on his mustang, under asombrero, something smaller than a circus tent, and as happy as a bevy of New England girls would be in a Los Angeles orange orchard. Passing on up the creek, which is gradually dwindling, beyond which area succession of buttes, or low, grass-covered hills, 3.5 miles brings us to Pomona—tThis is a promising little town of about 600, with some good build- ings. Garey avenue—the principal one— is planted on each side, with Monterey cypress and eucalyptus trees, and presents a beautiful appearance. Four artesian wells supply the town with water, and for irrigating purposes, these wells range | pure as crystal. | trees. 22 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TO from 26 to 65 feet in depth, and flow an immense amount of water, which is as A reservoir holding 3,900,000 gallons is kept full as a reserve at all times. Here, too, we find many orchards of orange, lemon, fig, and fruit From Pomona it is 9.5 miles to the side-track and signal station of Cucamonga — elevation, 952 feet. Two and a half miles north is the Cuca- monga Ranche, celebrated for its wines. To the south, ten miles, is Rincon Settle- ment, a rich agricultural region, under a most complete system of irrigation, the water being supplied by the Santa Anna River, which carries a large volume of water at all seasons. A run of 15.2 miles through a section of country where are a few good ranches and some sheep, and we come to Colten—This place was named for | the vice-President of the Southern Pacific, and is a regular eating station for trains from the East and West. The town is nota very large one at present—about 200 per- sons will be the full number—yet it is quite a busy station, as it is the nearest station to San Bernardino, on the east, and River- side on the southwest. The Colton and the Trans-Continental are the principal hotels. Meals are good at either, and cost 50 cents. Colton has a newspaper—the - Semi-Tropie, that makes its bow weekly. | The Railroad Company have erected a stein pit accetatnai a desea baie ht inane sc Socata good station building and large freight houses. Stages leave on arrival of trains for San Bernardino, four miles east; fare, 50 cents; to Riverside, eight miles southwest, fare, 7 cents. Tur RiversmpE CoLony—has 8,000 acres of the best of agricultural land, all of which is under irrigating ditches, and is in a very thriving condition. San BeRNARDINO—four miles east, is the county seat of San Bernardino county, the largest in the State,61 miles east of Los Angeles. It was settled by a colony of Mormons in 1847, and the town laid out in the same manner as Salt Lake City, with water running through all the principal streets from a never-failing supply obtained from numerous springs and creeks in and coming down from the San Bernardino Mountains on the east, close to the base of which the town is located. All the Mor- mons now living there are “Josephites,” Brigham, some years since, having cul ed home to Salt Lake all who were devoted tohim. The town contains a population of about 6,000, most of whom are engaged in fruit raising and agricultural pursuits. Fruit trees of all kinds, with vineyards, gardens and groves, are the rule, and, alto- gether, it is a very beautiful town. San Bernardino is on the old trail, through the Cajou Pass, to the mining regions of Nevada and Arizona, now of little use. The valley of San Bernardino contains 36,000 acres. Crops of all kinds grow in this valley. Much of the land produces two crops a year—barley for the first, and corn for the second; of the former, fifty bushels to the acre is the av- erage yield, and of the latter, from fifty to sixty bushels. Of alfalfa, from five to six crops @ year are grown. Six miles north of San Bernardino is Waterman’s Hot Springs. These springs are said to be almost a sure cure for the rheumatism; they are 700 feet above the valley, and 1,800 above sea level. Near are the San Bernardino Mountains, the most prominent peak of which to the eastward is 8,750 feet above sea level. Returning to Colton, another engine is attached to our train, and we proceed to climb the San Gorgonio Pass; so we bid adieu to the orange groves, the beautiful fruit orchards, the luscious vineyards, and the glorious climate of Los Angeles county, as we shall see no more of those attrac- tions on this trip. “ Fare-thee-well, and if forever, still, forever fare-thee-well.” Leaving Colton, we cross Santa Anna River, and 8.4 miles from Colton come to Mounp Crry, a signal station, with an elevation of 1,055 feet. The road now runs up a narrow canyon with low hills on each side. Sheep are the only things of life now noticeable. Eleven miles further comes El Caseo— another signal station, situated in a ravine extending to the Pass. Up this ravine the average grade is 80 feet to the mile; elevation, 1,874 feet. We are now in a section where large quantities of peaches are raised. Continuing up the mountain 8.5 miles brings us to the Summit of the Pass, 2,592 feet, at Sam Gorgonio—There are some good agricultural lands near, when irri- gated, and a scheme is on foot to bring the water from the mountains to the northeast, twelve miles distant, for that purpose. From this station it is down grade for si sli an cnn se Re Naas camo cai, AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE 6.2 miles t) BANNING, a signal station, and 5.7 miles more brings us to Cabazon (pronounced Cabb-a-zone), which means “ Big Head,” named for a tribe of Indians who live in this country; elevation, 1,779 feet. We are now in the Coahulian Valley. To the right are the San Jacinto Mountains, covered with timber. From Cabazon it is 8.5 miles to WHITE WATER, an unimportant signal station, 1,126 feet altitude, where we enter the cactus and desert country, and from which station it is 7.5 miles to Seven Palms—elevation 584 feet. This station was named for seven large palm trees, situated about one mile north ofthe station. They are from 40 to 60 feet in height, with very large, spreading tops. The water at this station is the first and best on the west side of the desert, and in the days when emigrants traveled this route with teams, it was one of the points looked forward to with much pleasure. From this station to DosPalmas, a little over 50 miles, the palm trees are abundant, otherwise the route for the next 18 miles is a“ howling wilderness.” Endio—is 20.8 miles from Seven Palms, with a depression of just twenty feet below sea level. The palm trees along here are many of them 70 feet in height. When we commenced to descend below the sea level, three miles before reaching Indio, we left the sand-belt and entered a region more adapted for agricultural purposes, strange as it may seem. The cactus grows luxu- riantly, and the mesquite shrub and palms cover the face of the land. From this point we descend lower and lower at every revolution of the wheels, down, down under the sea. Methinks we can see the huge ships sailing over our heads, and many of the leviathans of the deep, with an eye cast wistfully down upon us; then we think of Jonah, and wonder if we will come out as he did; then, along comes the freebooter, Mr. Shark, and appears to be taking our measure with a knowing wink of his left fin—he rises to the surfaceas though to get a fresh breath and a better start for a grand dive, looking as hungry as a New York landlord, as enterprising as a Chicago drummer and as ‘cheeky’ as some of the literary thieves who pirate information from our book, without giving credit. In some points of the depression, where we first enter it, three miles north of Indio, fresh water can be obtained by sinking from twelve to sixteen feet. Here, vegeta- 253 tion is,very luxuriant; mesquite, iron-wood, arrow-wood, grease-wood, sage and other woods and shrubs abound. Further to the south, from Waltersto Flowing Wells, a distance of over 40 miles, the country is completely barren. Through this section, the water obtained by digging is very salt. The beach surrounding this depression is 40 feet above high water; the lines are the same noticeable around any salt beach, the pebbles laying in rows, away around the different water-lines, as though left but yesterday by the receding waters. Marine and fresh water shells are numerous, indi- cating a fresh water lake here, subsequent to its being a part of the ocean. Walters—is 13.3 miles from Indio, where passenger trains meet and pass. At this point we are 135 feet below the level of the sea, and still going dvwn. Ten miles further and we are 266 feet below ; gradually we ascend, and at the next station, 17.4 miles from Walters, are at Dos Palmas—only 253 feet below. A “buck-board stage’ leaves here every alternate day, on the arrival of trains, car- rying passengers, mails and express, for herenburg, 108 miles; Eherenburg to Wickenburg, 128 miles; Wickenburg to Prescott, 65 miles; fare averages 16 cents per mile. From Dos Palmas, desolation reigns supreme, and 10.9 miles brings us to Fink’s Sprimgs——Here we are seven feet lower than at Dos Palmas, being 260 feet below; alittle further it will be 262 feet when we commence to rise. Five miles south, is twenty-five square miles of mud springs. The first is about 100 yards east cf the road, and is cold. Then tothe right, from one to six miles, are many springs, both hot and cold. Some are 200 feet in diameter, boiling up as though in a huge caldron, just on a level with the ground. Others are smaller, cone- shaped, rising in some cases 25 feet from the ground, a kind of miniature volcanoes. The mud in these springs is much the same consistency as ordinary mush, bubbling up as in a pot, over a slow fire. The smell, coupled with an occasional rumbling sound, reminds one of a region of which our modern teachers deny the existence. The railroad track does not cross this depression in the lowest place, as an area a ce ERASE PRE DAP EATON nS AEP PR SELES RELL I ELITE EI TPO ALANS E EE SE AN NT PEST RE Tat ECE NAEOERIC EN ee EEE CO CT meen te eeh EY RE ESS ESE «eo RIED a BER REO aR AES oe aire west from Dos Palmas is twelve and a half feet lower. This has been called a Vol- canic country. There are no signs that would indicate it ever to have been dis- 254 turhed by volcanic eruptions, except the | presence of the mud springs; on_ the con- trary, most of the rocks surrounding this basin for fifty miles are granite, which is unusual in a volcanic section of country. What few rocks there are here, that are not granite, show no appearance of volcanic matter. Spurs of SanBernardino Mountains have been onour left, up to this point, after which they dwindle to small, isolated sand hills, here and there. Flowing Well—is the next station, 17.7 miles from Fink’s Springs. We have risen, so that we are now only 45 feet below sea level. At this station the Railroad Company sank an artesian well 160 feet deep, and got an abundance of water, through a six-inch pipe, but it was too salt for use. Six miles further, we pass TorRTUGA, a sig- nal station, 183 feet altitude, and 6.1 miles further-come to Mammoth Tank—so named from a natural water tank in the granite rocks on the left, five miles distant, which holds 10,000 gallons, filled by rains, and nearly always has waterinit. It is said there are several hundred varieties of cactus on this desert, and we are ready to admit the statement without hunting further proof than what can be seen from the car window. They are here, of all sizes, shape and form. Eleven miles further, we come to another signal station called MesquirE, so named because there is no mesquite near or in the immediate vicinity. Next comes—13.8 miles— Cactus—clevation, 396 feet, named for a variety of cactus called “ ocotilla,” which grows in great numbers, near. To the east, from this station, can be seen Chimney Peak—a conglomerate rock —a huge cone, 160 feet in diameter, which rises from the summit of some low hills, 700 feet in height, beyond which, 40 miles away, can be seen the Castle Dome Moun- tains. They are on the east side of the, Colorado River, from the summit of which rises Castle Dome, a granite column, 500 feet above the mountain range, which pre- sents the appearance of a monster, square, flat-roofed building, but which, in reality, is a long, narrow column, when viewed from a point to the southward of the Dome. Mesquite, sage and grease-wood shrubs are now to be seen on all sides. Directly ahead is a tall, round butte, called Pilot Knob, on the east side of which are located some lead mines. Passing on 13.6 miles, we come to a signal station, called Prior CROFUTI’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Kwon. Here our course changes a little more to the eastward, and we soon come in view of the Colorado River, with a wide, sandy bottom covered with willows and mesquite. From Pilot Knob itis 9.4 miles to Yuma, about five of which brings to us the first view of the river, and the next four to the west end of the bridge. To the left, before crossing the bridge, is Fort Yuma,a Government post, occupied | by about one dozen “boys in blue.” It is on a high butte, overlooking the surround- ing country. To the right,on the opposite side of the river, on a high bluff, is located the Quartermaster’s Department. Cross- ing the bridge, which has a draw for river boats, and through a deep cut, we are at the end of the road, in Arizona, and at Wuma City—This is unlike any city we have heretofore visited. It con- tains a population of about 1,500, one- fifth of whom are Americans, the balance Spanish, Mexicans, and natives—Indians. The buildings are all one story, high, made of sod, adobe, or sun-dried brick, the walls being from two to four feet thick, with flat roofs. The roofs are made by a layer of poles, covered with willows, some- times a covering of cloth, or rawhide be- neath them, and then covered with dirt to a thickness of from one to two feet. On all sides of these houses verandas project from ten to twenty feet, built of poles, like the roof, some with dirt, others with only the brush. These verandas are built for protection against the powerful rays of the sun. In summer the heat is intense; often the mercury marks 126, and once, some years ago, we learn from a reliable author- ity, it was 1380 degrees in the shade. As might be supposed, snow and frost are un- known in Yuma. In summer, the American, Spanish and Mexican residents wear as little clothing as possible, while the native Indians’ covering will not ex- ceed the size of a small pocket handker- chief, adjusted in the mother Eve fashion, with sometimes a long, trailing strip of red material dangling from the rear belt, @ la monkey. In the hot weather, which is intense for about eight months in the year, the people sleep on the roofs of the houses, covered by the drapery furnished by nature— darkness. Yuma, with all its varieties of citizens, isa very orderly city. The great majority of the people are Roman Catholics, that denomination having the only church AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. building in the city. There are a few stores, with quite an extensive stock of goods. The hotels are not very extensive, such only in name; the Palace and Colorado are the two principal ones. Yuma has one weekly newspaper—the Sentznel. Most of the Spanish and Mexican houses are surrounded with high fences, made of poles, set in the ground close to- gether, to a depth of three or more feet, and secured together about four feet from the ground, with narrow strips of raw-hide interwoven, when soft, around and between the poles, so when the hide dries the fence is very strong. Many of these fences pre- sent a very ragged appearance, as the poles range in height from four to twelve feet above the ground. The more enter- prising of the people saw these poles off to a uniform height, when they present a much more artistic and finished appear- ance. The Railroad Company have large ware- houses here built of lumber, for the ac- commodation of both the railroad and steamer business. The boats on the Color- ado River are all owned by the Railroad Company, and are run in connection with the trains. Just above the railroad bridge, on the west bank of the Colorado River, is situ- ated Fort Yuma. It is located on the top of a bold, round butte about one-fourth of a mile in diameter, rising about 200 feet above the river bottom, and projecting into the Colorado River to meet a promon- tory of about the same height on the east side. Between these beld points flows the Colorado River, about 300 yards in width. The Colorado River reaches this point from the northward, and the Gila (pro- nounced Hee-le) from the east, forming a junction close above the points named. It is proposed by those managing the in- terests (so we hear) of the Texas & Pa- cific railroad, to build a bridge across the Colorado River at these bluffs, some work of grading having been done in the fall of 1877, just previous to the locating of the present railroad bridge, a few hundred yards below. From the high butte above named, a view can be had of Yuma, the valleys of the Colorado and the Gila rivers, the mesas, and the surrounding country for many miles. Stages leave Yuma daily, carrying pas- sengers, mails, and express, for Florence, 225 miles; Tueson, 595 miles, and Apacha Pass, 665 miles, all in Arizona; to Silver City, 790 miles, and Mesilla, 915 miles in New Mexico; then to El Paso, Texas, 965 miles, and to the end of the Texas & Pa- cific railroad, at Fort Worth, 900 miles further east, making 1,865 miles between the Southern Pacific and the Texas & Pacific railroads, or Yuma, Arizona, and Fort Worth, Texas. COLORADO RIVER STEAMERS. Passenger and freight steamers leave Yuma for Aubry, during the summer season, weekly, commencing Saturday, May 4th, 1878, and continuing until Oct. 26th; from that time until January 4th following, they will leave every alternate Saturday. Steamers for Camp Mohava leave every fifth Wednesday, commencing Jan. 16th. These steamers run to El Dorado Canyon, from May 1st to the last of October (stage of water permitting). Distance from Yuma, per river steamer to Castle Dome, 35 miles; fare, $5.00; Eherenberg, 125 miles, fare, $15.00; Aubrys, 220 miles, fare, $28.00; Camp Mohava, 300 miles, fare, $35.00; Hardy- ville, 312 miles, fare, $35.00; El Dorado Canyon, 365 miles, fare, $45 00. The Colorado is the principal River of Arizona. It is principally supplied by the Grand River, which rises in the Middle Park of Colorado, and the Green River which rises in the eastern portion of Idaho. From the junction of the Grand and Green rivers, the stream is called the Colorado, and with its windings has a length of 3,000 miles to where it enters the Gulfof California. Itis navigable at all times about 500 miles, and in a season of high water about 150 miles further, to Call- ville. The Grand Canyon of the Colorado has been “written up” so often that it would be unnecessary for us to more than allude to the fact that the time is not far distant when a trip to the Grand Canyon will be one of the most attractive, and quite ascommon as to Niagara Falls to the people of the State of New York. For nearly 300 miles the channel of the river has been cut through the mountain walls that rise up on each side from 1,000 to 3,500 feet, forming the largest and grandest canyon the eye of man ever beheld. See AnNEX No. 55 for further informa- tion. 255, ana i pp a eS foe a eis * pits ere Os ey (See page 250.) aor a pace ee) he pe Ba ‘eo TREATS | nae a V WA AUREL Beat th nay Oh. ie: ~ 4A Aelia Alt Dae ‘ fi nee ANS us srg a, sea SS me Hy ti SNe cease en BiG ts A a 2 oO o4 oO fa 5 & a mq H Gq es nN R ica) % H a 2 Py a fi rm B = z os > ° [4 0 & oO 4a For a miscellaneous collection of old blood- curdling Indian stories, stale jokes, old plains yarns, together with a compilation of facts from pore volumes of our books, buy our imitator’s ook. For an additional :list of books worth buy- ing, see ANNEX 51, No. 10 Annex. Jack Slade—Virginia Dale was rey a stage station on the old Denver, Salt Lake and California road, and was laid out and kept by the notorious Jack Slade, who was division superintend- ent for the old C. O. C. Stage Co., from 1860 to 1863. It was supposed that Slade was the head of a gang of desperadoes who infested the coun- try, running off stock from the emigrants, and ap- Brepenine the same. Atanyrate he was anoted esperado, having, it is said, killed thirteen men. The last of his exploits, east of the mountains, was the wanton and cruel murder of Jules Burg, the person who gave his name to Julesburg. Slade had a quarrel with Jules in 1861, whic ended in a shooting scrape, wherein Slade was beaten—or, as their class would say, ‘‘forced to take water.”’ In 1863 some of the drivers on the line, friends and employes of Slade’s, decoyed Jules to the Cold Spring ranche, on the North Platte River, kept at the time by old Antoine Runnels, commonly known as ‘tthe Devil’s left bower.” He was a great friend of Slade’s, who appears to have rightfully earned the title of ‘right bower” to that same warm-natured indi vidual. The place where this tragedy occurred is 50 miles north of Cheyenne, and 25 miles below Fort Laramie, whither Slade repaired from Cot- tonwood Springs (opposite McPherson station) in an extra coach as soon as he was notified of the capture of his old enemy. He drove night and day, arriving at Cold Spring ranche early in the morning. On alighting from the coach he found Jules tied to a post ina coral, in such a position as torender him perfectly helpless. Slade shot him twenty-three times, taking care not to kill him, cursing all the time in a most fearful man- ner, returning to the ranche for a ‘' drink’ between shots. While firing the first twenty-two shots, he would tell Jules just where he was going to hit him, aacing that he did not intend to kill him immediately; that he intended to torture him to death. During this brutal scene, seven of Slade’s friends stood by and witnessed the proceedings. Unable to provoke a.cry of pain or a sign of fear from the unfortunate Jules, he thrust the pistol into his mouth, and at the twenty-third shot blew his head to pieces, Slade then cut the ears from his yictim, and put them in his pocket. In the saloons of Denver City, and other places, he would take Jules’ ears out of his pocket, throw them down on the bar, and openly ee ye act, would demand the drinks on his bloody pledges, which were never refused him. Shortly after this exploit, it became too hot for him in Colorado, and he was forced to flee. From thence he went to Virginia City, Montana, where he continued to prey upon society. The pee in that country had no love or use for his kind of people, and after his conduct had become insup- Sold Price, in| portable, the Vigilantes hung him, as he richly deserved. His wife arrived at the scene of execution just in time to behold his dead body. She had ridden on horseback 15 miles for the avowed purpose of shooting Slade, to save the disgrace of having him hung, and she arrived on the scene with re- volver in hand, only a few minutes too late to exe- cute her scheme—Jack Slade, the desperado, was dead, and he died—“ with his boots on.” No.1 Annex. Boulder Canyon—This large illustration—No. 4—is noticeably wild and ro- mantic, even ina country where nature has been so productive of surprising scenery. On either side rise the lofty walls, from 1,000 to 2,000 feet in height, their sides covered with verdure, save in spots where the rocks stand forth in naked bold- ness. Through the canyon rushes a noisy and turbulent stream, serving to enhance the attrac- tions and break the solitude. Through its whole extent, a distance of fifteen miles, the points of special interest vie with each other in attracting the attention of the beholder. Prominent among those are the ‘‘ Falls’; and the “Dome.” The former are ten miles distant from Boulder City, (see page 68) on the North Fork, a few hundred yards from its junction with the Mid- dle Boulder, whence they are reached by a roman- tic trail along the mountain side. | Three miles up the canyon, and nearly encircled by it, rises the “‘Dome,” asolitary and majestic mass of granite, five hundred feet in height. The illustration is from a photograph by W. G. Cham- berlain, of Denver. No.12 Annex. Hanging Rock of Clear Creek Camyon—as shown in our large view, No. 3, is at the point of entry into one of the grandest of nature’s amphitheatres. It is an ex- ample of how man can utilize the sublime scenery of nature, and make even the canyons—which, struggling, have worn through almost impene- trable granite—the medium of communication be- tween regions that had once seemed almost im- penetrable. By almost incredible engineering skill, the bed for the railroad was cut out of the wall of solid nite, beside which flows Clear Creek; following its sinuosities, with the creek thundering below, and the walls of overhanging rock towering aloft to the height of from 1,500 to 2,000 feet above the road. If you want to see nature in all her wild sublimity, and art as the triumphant utilizer of her varied resources, you need not visit the Alps or Apenines, but go and see the grand scen- ery of Clear Creek Canyon of Colorado. See page 72. : No. 13 Annex. Snow Difficulties—The Central Pacific Company commenced the erection of snow-sheds at the same time with their track- laying over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and the result has been their trains have never been delayed as often or as long as on many roads in the Eastern States. The depths of snow-fall and the necessities for snow-sheds over the Sierras were known, and could be guarded against, but further to the eastward, over the Rocky Moun- tains, on the route of the Union Pacific, no such necessity for protection against snow was thought to exist; hence the blockade of February and March, 1869. The Union Pacific Company immediately took— as was thought by everybody at the time—am- ple precautions to protect their cuts from the es snow, by the erection of snow-fences and snow-sheds at every exposed point, but the win- ter of 1871-2 proved to be one of unusual—un- 306 | CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST teen ene heard-of severity. The snow caused annoying delays to passenger and freight traffic, as well as oe the company alarge amount of money to Keep the road open. But the lesson taught was a good one in enabling the company to take such measures as Were necessary to protect their road arent all possible continge: cies in the future. which they Aave done, byraising their track and building additional snow-sheds and fences. On the “‘Central’’ there are nearly 50 miles of snow-sheds ; one continuous of 28 miles in length. On the “Union” there are about 20 miles, and innumerable snow-fences. No. 14 Annex. Garden of the Gods—| This large illustration, number five, is a bit of nature, among the wonders of the country where itis located. In the distance, Pike’s Peak rises to view. (See further description on page 82 of this book. No.15 Annex. State Capitol of Cali- fornia—This is one of the first objects which meets the eye when approaching Sac- ramento from the east. It is a conspicuous landmark. The oe occupies the center of four blocks, bounded by 10th and 12th, and by Land N streets. The grounds form three ter- races, slightly elevated above each other, and con- nected by easy flights ofsteps. They are regularly laid out, and covered with a beautiful sward, closely shaven by the lawn-cutter. They are in- terplanted with shrubs and evergreen trees. The outer border of the lowest terraceis studded with flowers. Its front is towards 10th street, and is 320 feet in length. Approaching it from this point you may regard it as a great central building, from which rises the lofty dome, and having on each side a large wing. A flight of geanive steps, 25 feet high by 80 feet in width, leads to a front por- tico of ten columns, through which, and a large hall, the rotunda of 72 feet diameter is found in the center; and from this, in each story, halls, ele- gantly arched, extend through the front and wings, the State offices being on either side. Five female figures ornament the front above the columns. The central one is standing, the remaining four are in sitting postures. They represent war, sci- ence, agriculture and mining. The wings form- ing the flanks of the building are 164 feet above the first or basement story. The north and south flanks of the peg respectively, the As- sembly and Senate chambers, the former being 82x72, and the latter 72x62, In the rear center, a circular projection of 60 feet diameter forms the State Library. The first story of 25 feet is of white granite, from neighboring quarries, and is sur- mounted by acorniceof the same. Above this the body ofthe main domeis surrounded by anopen balcony, which is supported by 24 fluted Corin- thian columns and an equal number of pilasters. \bove this balcony the body of the dome is sup- ported by an equal number of ornamental pilas- ters. From these rises the great metallic dome. From the top of this dome in turn rise 12 fluted Corinthian pillars, which support the final or small dome, and this is surmounted by the statue of California. The whole interior is one solid mass of iron and masonry. The dome of the interior rotunda, which is of iron ornaments and brick work, is exceed- ingly handsome, The panels and pedestals under the windows are of the beautiful laurel, well known in California for its susceptibility to re- ceive a high polish. All the first floor doors are of walnut, with laurel panels, as are also the sashes throughout the building. The stories are, respect- ively, 21 feet 6 inches, 20 feet and 18 feet in height. It covers, with its angles, nearly 60,000 surface feet of ground, and measures over 1,200 lineal feet ro in all the angles. Se large illustration INO. ie No. 16 Annex. Castellated Rocks at Green River—ass the subject of the large illustration, No. 2, is described, on page 106 of the book, it will be unnecessary to repeat it here. No i? Annex. Memories of Fort Bridger—which were handed tous by one of our friends, who was with the first party of sol- ee eo arrived at the place where the fort now stands: “Early in the winter of 1857, on the 23d of No- vember, the winds were blowing cold and bleak over the snow-covered ridges surrounding Bridger —a town with a significant name, but Dothing but a name except an old stone building with the ap- pellation of fort attached toit, built by the Mor- mons, and surrounded by a small redoubt and chevaun de frise pierced for three six-pound moun- tain howitzers.” “The U. 8. forces, comprising the fifth, seventh and tenth Infantry, second dragoons, and four com- panies of the fourth artillery, the whole under command of Brigadier-General Albert Sidney Johnson, were on their way to Salt Lake City. The fifth, under Major Ruggles ; the seventh, un- der Colonel Morrison; the second dragoons, un- der Colonel Howe; the fourth artillery, under Major Williams, entered Bridger on the 23d of November, and established acamp; while a part of the supply train accompanying the expedition, numbering at least 160 wagons, was behind, de- layed by the heavy snows, entirely separated from the command, and forced to encamp about one mile from each other on the Big and Little Sandy Rivers.””_ [Norze—These streams are tributaries of Green River on the east, rising near South Pass, about 160 miles north of Bridger.] “While encamped there, a party of Mormons, under command of Orson Pratt, the generalissimo of the so-called Mormon Legion, assisted by one Fowler Wells, another formidable leader of the Mormon church militant, dashed in and sgur- rounded the trains in the dark hours of the night, completely surprising the entire party, not one escaping to give the alarm. After taking the arms and equipments from the men, they gave them a very limited amount of provisions to last them through to Leavenworth, Kansas, allowing them at the rate of five head of cattle for twenty men, and then started them off in the wilderness to reach that place—about 1,000 miles distant— with no weapons other than their pocket knives with which to protect themselves against the In- dians, or to procure game when their limited supply of provisions should become exhausted. After accomplishing this soldierly, humane and Christian act, the Mormons set fire to the train, burning up everything which they could not carry away, and retreated, driving the stock with them, while those left to starve turned their faces east- ward. There were ‘souls in that despoiled party, only etght of whom ever reached the border settlements; the knife of the savage, and starvation, finishing the cruel work begun by the merciful Mormons. The suryivors reached Leavenworth in June, 1858, bringing the sad intelligence of the fate of their comrades. “The loss of these trains necessarily cut short the supplies in Bridger. The troops were put on short rations, and, to add to their horror. the beef cattle accompanying the expedition had nearly all frozen to death, ‘eaving but a few head in camp. ‘At Black Fork, the command lost over 300 head es Wobble ee ae Reve SERS. (See Annex No. 45.) ws. | | _ which they buried in the snow, a AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. Pe in one night; the horses and mules dying inabout an equal ratio. Before reaching Bridger, the dragoons were compelled to leave their saddles, the horses being unable to carry them. The animals were com. pelled to subsist on sage-brush, for two-thirds «f the time, and then, to obtain this fibrous shrub, they were compelled to remove snow several feet deep. The men had no other fuel; no water only as they melted snow, for three weeks before reaching Bridger. ‘*When the news arrived at the camp that the trains were destroyed, the troops immediately be- gan to forage for anything that was palatable, well knowing that no supplies could reach them be- fore late in the spring. The snow was then, on an average, from six to seven feet deep, and the game had mostly left the hills. The rations were imme- diately reduced one-half, but even this pittance failed on the 28th day of February, when one-quar- ter ration per man was issued, being the last of all their stores. Two 100-pound sacks of flour were secured by Major E. R. 8. Canby, who gave for them $300 in gold. They were placed in his tent, which stood where the old flag-staff now stands, and he supposed his treasure secure. “But that night a party of men belon ng to Company I, 10th Infantry, commanded by. Lieuten- ant Marshall, made a coup d’etat on the tent, pulling out the pins and throwing the tent over the astonished Major, but securing the flour, with which they escaped in the darkness, and suc- ceeded in hiding it abouta mile from camp, in the sage-brush. All was confusion. The long— roll was beaten; the troops turned out and an- swered to their names, no one being absent. So the matter ended forthe time. The next day, at guard mount, the Major commenced a personal Search among the tents for his flour. He found— what? In ove tent, two men were cooking a piece of mule meat; in another, he found five men cut- ting up the frozen skin of an ox, SROR Ray to making soup ofit, the only other ingredient to the savory mess being a littlefiour. Overcome by the sight of so much wretchedness, the Major sat down and cried at his inability to assist them. He asked the men if they could obtain nothing better to eat, and was answered in the negative. “The severity of the suffering endured by the men nearly demoralized them, still they went out foraging, dragging their wasted forms through the snow with great difficulty. Some would meet with success in their hunts at times; others would not. The mules and horses were either killed and eaten by the men, or died of cold and hun ger, which left them without the means of supplying their camp with wood, only as they hauled it themselves. But the men did not murmur. Twenty o1 thirty would take a wagon and haul it five or six miles to the timber, and after loading it with wood, haul it to camp. Each regiment hauled its own wood, thus oerae a daily supply. Some days astray creature would be slain by the hunters, and there would be rejoicing in the camp once more. ‘‘ Early in the spring of 1858 most of the men de- eke for Salt Lake City, leaving companies B, and K, of the 10 Infantry, and company F, 7th Infantry. _. Twenty-seven men from each company were detailed to go to the pineries, 25 miles away, to cut timber with which to erect quarters. On arriving in the pinery, they found an old saw mill and race, which had been used by the Mormons, and everything convenient but the necessary ma- chinery. Luckily the quarter-master’s department had the required mac inery, and soon they had a Saw mill in good running order. By the 15th of of September, 1858, the quarters were up and ready for use. They were — enough for five companies, including a chapel, hospital, sutler’s store, guard house, etc. “The Fourth of July, 1858, was duly observed and honored. ‘The fiag-staff was raised in the center of the parade ground, the flag hoisted by Major Canby, and prayers said by Major Gatlin. “On the 23d of September, 1858, a large train of supplies arrived, causing great joy among the troops. Two days later three long trains of oe plies filed through the place on the way to Sa Lake City. No. 18 Annex. Hanging Rock, Utah. —See description on page 131 of this book. No. 19 Annex. Steamboat Rock—The large illustration, No. 6, is one of many beautiful views to beseen while passing through Echo and Weber canyons, Utah. om our poirt of view the appearance of Steamboat Rock is exceedingly perfect. The lines (seams in the rocks) run grace- fully up for 300 or 400 feet, and in the sheen of the moon the sage-brush, dwarf cedars, and other bushes, growing along its upper crevices can easily be conjectured into a load of passen ers worthy of the mighty vessel; but she stands in stone, and the ship carpenters—the elements— are steadily taking her timbers apart. No. 20 Annex. Paddy Miles’ Ride— Mr. Miles, or “ Paddy,”? as he was familiarly called, was foreman to the Casement Broth- ers, who laid the track of the Union Pa- cific railroad. One morning, Paddy started down Echo Canyon with a long train of flat cars, sixteen in number, loaded with ties and iron rails for the road below Echo City, where were then, as now, the station, switches. etc. The reader will remember that from the divide to the mouth of Echo Canyon is heavy grade, no level place on which cars would slack their speed. The train had proceeded but a few miles down the canyon, going ata lively rate, when the en- gineer discovered that the train had parted, and four loaded cars had been left behind. Where the train parted the grade was easy, hence that por- tion attached to the locomotive had gained about half-a-mile on the stray cars. But when discov- ered they were on heavy grade and coming down on the train with lightning speed. What was to be done? The leading train could not sto to pick them up, for at the rate of speed at w nich vig Wore ap: roaching, a collision would shiver both trains, destroying them and the lives of those on board. There were two men, Dutchmen, on the loose cars, who might put on the brakes, and stop the runaway. The whistle was sounded, but they heard it not; they were fast asleep behind the pile of{ties. Oncame the cars, fairly bounding from the track in their unguided speed, and away shot the locomotive and train. Away they fiew, on, around curves and over bridges, past rocky points and bold headlands; on with the speed of the wind, but no faster than came the cars behind them, “ Let on the steam,” cried Paddy, and with the throttle chock open, with wild, terrible screams of the whistle, the locomotive plunged through the gorge, the mighty rocks sending back the screams in a thousand ringing echoes. “ Off with the ties,” shouted Paddy, once more, as the whistle shouted its warning to the station- men szhead tokeep the track straight and free, for there was no time to’ pause—that terrible train was close on to them, andif they collided, 309 the canyon would have a fearful item added to its history. On went the train past the side- tracks, the almost frantic men throwing off the | ties, in hopes that some ofthem would remain on the track, throw off the runaways, and thus save the forward train. Down the gorge they plunged, the terror keeping close by them, leaping along— almost flying, said one, who told us the tale— while the locomotive strained every iron nerve to in on its dreaded follower. Again the wild scream of the locomotive of ‘switches open,” rung out on the air and was heard and understood in Echo City. The trouble was surmised, not known, but the switches were ready, and if the leading train had but the distance it could pass on and the following cars be switched off the track, and allowed to spend their force against the mountain side. On shot the locomotive, like an arrow from the bow, the men throwing over the ties until the train was well-nigh unloaded, whén just as they were close to the curve by which the train arrives at the station, they saw the dreaded train strike a tie, or something equally of service, and with 2 oe plunge, rush down the embankment, into the little valley and creek below. ‘‘ Down brakes,” screamed the engine, and in. a moment more the cars entered Echo City, and ~vere quietly waiting on the side- track for further developments. The excited crowd, alarmed by the repeated whistli g, was soon informed of the cause of these screams, and immediately went up the track to the scene of the disaster, to bringin the dead bodies of the un- fortunate Dutchmen, who were surely crushed and torn in pieces. When they arrived at the scene of the disaster, they found the poor unfor- tunates ae on the bank, smoking their pipes and unharmed, having just woke up. The first they knew of the trouble was wheu they were pitched away from the broken cars on the soft greensward. The debris of car frames, wheels, and ties, gave them the first intimation they had received that something was the matter. No. 21 Annex. Great Salt Lake—Be- hind the station at Promontory the hills rise into the dignity of mountains. To the top of the left hand point we strolled one bright, spring morn- ing. After an hour’s toilsome walking through sage-brush and bunch-grass, then among sage- brush and rocks, until we had attained a height to which that persistent shrub could not attain, then among rocks, stunted cedars, tiny, delicate flowers and blooming mosses, until we stood on the sum- mit of the peak, on a narrow ridge of granite, not over four feet wide, and there, almost at our feet so steep was the mountain) lay the Great Salt ake, spread out like a vast mirror before us, its placid bosom glittering in the morning sun, likea field of burnished silver. Mile after mile it stretched away, placid and motionless, as though no life had ever caused a vibration of its currents, or oe one restless impulse to its briny bosom. the aid of the glass, Church or Antelope and other mountain islands could be distinctly seen, rearing their towering crests far above the silver border at their base, their sloping sides enrobed in the greenest of all green coverings. Standing there as lone sentinels in the midst of this waste of waters, they possess a wondrous beauty as arecompense for their utter isolation. Away beyond these islands rise the white- crested Wasatch Mountains, and we believe that we can pick out the curve in their brown sides where nestles Salt Lake Cily, secure and beautiful in her mountain fastness. Far away to the southward the range blends with the sky and wa- ter, and the dim, indistinct lines of green, brown ! tion of many of her people, who fin CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST and silver blend in one, while above them the clear blue of the mighty dome seems to float and uiver for aspace, and then sweeps down tojoin | them, blending with them in one waving mass of | yanishing color, which slowly recedes in the dim distance, until the eye can follow its course no farther. Turn now to the left, and there, sweep- ing up far behind Promontory Point, is the nurth- western arm of the lake—Monument Bay. That long, green line is Monument Point, throwing its long ridge far out into the bosom of the lake, as though it would span the waters with a carpet of green. Away to the west Pilot Knob rears its crest of rocks from_out the center of the great American Desert. Do not look longer in that direction, all is desolation; only a barren plain, and hard, gray rocks, and glinting beds of alkali meet the vision. One more view to the north, one look at the lines of green hills and greener slopes which sweep down toward the sandy, sage-clad plateau on which stands the station; another and last look at the placid lake, and now, cooled and refreshed b the mountain breeze, we pluck a tiny moss bell from the cleft in the rock, and then descend the rugged mountain. We have seen Salt Lake from the most commanding point of view from the north, and now we are better able to understand its shape and comprehend its dimensions, which are 126 miles in epee by 45 in width. The prin- cipal islands are Antelope (15 miles Jong), Sheep’s Hot, Stansbury, Carrington and Egg. They pos- sess Many charming summer retreats, many nat ural bathing places, where the gravelly bays in- trude among the grass-covered points and hil- locks. The water is so buoyant that it is difficult for the bather to sink therein. The lake has no outlet for the waters continually pouring into it from Bear, Jordan, Weber and other rivers. Eyaporation absorbs the vast vol- ume, butitis a noticeable fact, and one worthy of consideration, that since the settlements have been made in the Territory, and the bosom of the earth has been turned with the plow. rendering the barren waste blooming and productive, that the waters of the lake have risen steadily, and are now 12 feet higher than they were 20 “years ago. Fences, which once enclosed fine meadow land, are now just peering above the flood, marking its steady encroachment on the fertile bottom lands. The grand old mountains bear unmistakable evi- dence of the water’s presence far up their rock sides. At what time the floods reached that alti- tude, or whether those mountains were lifted from the present level of the lake by volcanic action, and carried these water lines with them, are ques- tions no one can answer. Savans may give learned theories pecans = things they know noth- ing of; they may demonstrate that Salt Lake is held in its present position by immutable laws, but they cannot destroy the ocular evidence that it is rising, slowly and steadily, and has been dur- ing the Jast 20 years. o. 22 ANNEX. For further information re- | garding Salt Lake, see from pages 121 to 140. No. 23 Annex. California—was first dis- covered in 1542, by a Portuguese, Juan R. Cabri!lo, while in the Spanish service. It was held | by the Spanish then by the Mexican Govern- ment, until 1848, when by treaty it became a portion of the United States. Itwas admitted as a State in 1850. It covers an area of 160,000 sqnare miles, divided about equally into Se agricultural, timber, and grazing lands. i kinds of grain, fruit, and vegetables, grow in pro- fusion. The grape culture has ogeup ie. the atten- that they can AND PACIFIO produce wine surpassed by none in this country, and few in the old. Large quantities are used throughout the United States, with a yearly in- creased shipment to Huropean markets. Her manufactures are of a high order, and attract favorable notice at home and abroad. The spirit of enterprise manifested by her citizens has de- served and won success. Under the liberal, far- seeing policy of the younger class of capitalists and merchants, who appeared about the time of the inauguration of the great railroad, a new order of things arose. Men began to regard this land as their future home, who, before this era, cared to stay no longer than while they obtained a fortune, which they expected to get in a few months at farthest. From this time, money expanded, trade, agricul- ture, mining and manufactures began to assume their proper stations. The old, narrow, ruinous no-policy, which marked the era of the old capit- alist, passed away, and a brighter era opened to the people of the Pacific slope. The Sierra Nevada Mountains—are about 500 miles long, and from 60 to 100 miles in width, their general direction northwest and southeast. The height of the principal peaks are —Mt. Whitney, 15,088 feet; Williams, 14,500; Shasta, 14,444; Tyndall, 14,386; Raweah, 14,000; Gardner, 14,000; King, 14,000; Brewer, 13,886: Dana, 13,227; Lyell, 13,217; Castle Peak, 13,000; Cathedral Peak, 11,000; Lassen’s, 10,578 feet. The Coast Range—is the range of moun- tains nearest the Pacific Ocean, extending the whole length of the State, broken at intervals with numerous small rivers, and narrow, fertile valleys. The principal peaks are—Mt. Ballery, 6,357 feet high; Pierce, 6,000; Hamilton, 4,450; Diablo, 3,876; Banch, 3,790; Chonal, 3,530; St. Helena, 3,700; Tamalpais, 2,604 feet. Mount St. Bernardino, away to the southward, in the range of that name, is 8,370 feet in height. The aainy Season on the Pacific coast is between the first of November and the first of May, the rain falling principally in the night, while the days are mostly clear and pleasant. At Christmas, the whole country is covered with green grass; in January with a carpet of flowers; and in April and May with ripening fields of ain. During 15 years of observation the average as been 220 clear, 85 cloudy, and 60 rainy days each year. The nights are cool the year round, requiring a coverlid during the hottest and dryest season. The State Agricultural Society of Califormia—hold annual fairs in September. They are largely attended—visitors and exhibitors coming from all parts of the State, Nevada and Oregon. Statistical Etems—We compiled the fol- lowing from the report of the San Francisco Board of Trade, for 1877, as interesting items : Wheat export, 200,000 tons, value, $11,750,000; Silver export to China, $10,500,000; mineral pro- duct of the Pacific Coast mines for 1877 : Gold cee «see $46,129,541 Siler fe ie a ee 47,205,913 ORG. oe ee ee oye da see te DAORE BOO $98,421,754 Export of Flour, 485,000 barrels; value, $2,790,000. Export of barley, 166,500 centals; imports of coffee, 16,300,000 pounds ; imports of tea, 5,026,000 pounds; imports of rice, 42,000,000 pounds; im- ports of sugar, 68,000,000 pounds; imports of coal, 525,000 tons[135,000 from England and 120,000 from Australia]. Coal produced in California, 100,000 COAST GUIDE. 310 et tons; export of salmon, 156,000 packages, value, $270,000; hides, 74,000; leather, 3,270 packages, value, $172,000; wines, 925,000 gallons, value, $500,- 000; receipts of quicksilver, 70,000 flasks: butter, 16,500,000 pounds; receipts of cheese, 4,500,000 pounds; clip of wool, 155,760 bags, weight 62,- ‘225,000 pounds—the export amounted to 52,800,000 pounds. Gross exports by sea for the year 1877, $29,500,000. No. 24 ANNEX, Hauling Ores in Hlides—On a recent visit to Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah, we saw a very novel contrivance being used by the Emma Mining Company, whose mine is situated about 1,000 feet above the railroad depot, on the side of the mountains. The snow was several feet deep, and the ore was being hauled down to thedepot in drags. The drags consisted of a green ox hide. The ore is first sewed up in sacks of 100 lbs. each, then placed on the hide, which has loops around the edge, and when 15 of these sacks are in aay @ rope isrun bees the loops in the hide the edges drawn close toget er, then a mule or horse is hitched to the head portion of the hide—with the hair outwards—and a brake to the tail. The brakeis of iron, shaped like a horse-shoe, with teeth that drag through the snow, holding back. In coming down the hill the driver stands on the hide, but when it becomes necessary on ac- count of heavy grade to “down brakes,” the driver changes his position and stands on the horseshoe instead of the hide. No. 25 Annex. Brigham Young — Brigham Young, President and Prophet of the Mormon ‘Church of the Latter Day Saints,” was born in Whittingham, Windham county, Vermont, on the first pig i June, 1801. Ais father, John Young, was a Reyolutiona veteran, and served. three campaigns under Washington. The family consisted of six daughters and five sons, of whom Brigham was the fourth. In early life he was connected with the Methodists, and at this time he followed the occupation of carpenter and joiner, painter and glazier. : Young was first married in 1824, and in the spring of 1830 first saw the ‘‘Book of Mormon,” which was in the possession of one of his brothers, and made a fakes impression upon him, and of which he afterwards became so firm a believer and prominent supporter. In April, 1882, he was baptized a member of the “Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints.” Before becoming a Mormon, Brigham Young made himself thoroughly acquainted with their principles, and then clung to his beliefin the teach- ings of the “Book of Mormon” with great tenacity to the close of his eventful life. It was character- istic of the man that he was deliberate in arriving at an opinion, but when it was once formed he was steadfast to his convictions. While Joseph Smith was alive, by whom he was baptized, he was his friend and firm supporter, and from the time when the church of his choice was composed of but a persecuted and insipient handful, fieeing irom place to place, until the day of his death, his was the master-spirit that controlled all their de- liberations and ruled in all their prominent coun- cils. Brigham Young was the great organizer and master spirit thatenabled them, by practical coun- cils and directions, to cross the wide and unknown desert plains of America in the year 1847, when pos- sessed of the scantiest resources, and establish among the far-off mountains of Utah Territory, a prosperous and thriving community. He was equal to the grand occasion of his life in rescuing the church from disorganization at 311 CROFUTT’Ss NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Nauvoo, in 1844, where he stepped to the front and took the helm. The good of the Church was al- ways his first and foremost consideration; he laid plans for its prosperity, and in their success- ful execution, he made vast sums of money for himself. Like all new organizations, especially those of an ecclesiastical character, there were many schisms and rivals to be put down, and in doing away with these, he was frequently forced to take measures that drew down upon his head the odium of the outside world. With the same opportunities for becoming a tyrant and despot, with a large, ignorant element among his subjects, few men with the same tenacity of will, and force of character, would have been less of an oppres- sor than the late Prophet priest and Revelator of the Mormon Church. President Young has taken a prominent part in all public improvements, in every plan calculated to facilitate communication between the Territory and the Eastern States; materially assisting in forming several express companies and stage lines. He built several hundred miles of the Western Union Telegraph, graded 150 miles of the Union Pacific railroad, and has ever offered his as- sistance to every enterprise of the kind which had a material bearing on the interests of Utah. He died regreted and respected by his followers, and admired by the world at large, Wednesday, Aug. 29, 1877, in the seventy-sixth year of hisage. His funeral took place on Sunday, September 2, 1877, amid a great pupular demonstration, the body being viewed by over 20,000 people. The following characteristic document, prepared by the diseased about four years previous to his death, contains his instructions for the conduct of the funeral obsequies. The paper was read by George Q, Cannon before the assembled multitude on the day of the funeral, and the instructions therein contained were carried out to the letter. “T, Brigham TOUR: wish my funeral services to be conducted after the following manner: When I breathe my last I wish my friends to put my body in as clean and wholesome state as can conveniently be done, and preserve the same for one, two, three or four days, or as long as my body can be preserved in a goodcondition. I want my coffin made of plump 144 inch redwood boards, not scrimped in length, but two inches longer than I would measure, and from two to three inches wider than is commonly made for a person of my breadth and size, and deep enough to place me ona littie comfortable cotton bed with a good suitable pillow for size and quality; my body dressed in my Temple clothing and laid nicely into my cof- fin, and the coffin to have the appearance that if I wanted to turn a little to the right or to the left I should have plenty of room to do so; the lid can be made crowning. At my interment I wishall of my family present that can be conveniently, and the male members wear no crape on their hate or their coats; the fe- males to buy no black bonnets, nor black dresses, nor black veils; but if they have them, they are at liberty to wear them. The services may be per- mitted, as singing and a prayer offered, and if any of my friends wish to say a few words, and really desire, do so; and ‘when they have closed their service, take my remains on a bier and repair to the little burying ground whichI have reserved on my lot east of the White House on the hill, andin the southeast corner of this lot have a vault built of mason work. large enough to receive my coffin, and that may be placed ina box, if they choose, made of the same material as the coffin -redwood. Then place flat rocks over the vault, sufficiently large to cover it, that the earth may be placed over it—nice, fine, dry earth—to cover it until the walls of the little cemetery are reared, which will leave mein the southeast corner. This vault ought to be roofed over with some kind of a temporary roof. There let my earthly house or tabernacle rest in peace and have a good sleep until the morn- ing of the first resurrection; no crying, nor mourn- ing with any one that I have done my work faith- fully and in good faith. I wish this to be read at the funeral, providin that if I should die anywhere in the mountains, desire the above directions Vas my place of burial to be observed; but if I should live to go back with the Church, to Jackson County, I wish to be buried there. BRIGHAM YOUNG, President of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- day Saints. Sunpay, November 9th, 1873. Salt Lake City, Utah Ter. Brigham Young will ever stand prominently for- ward on the pages of the world’s history, as one of the most remarkable men of the nineteenth cen- tury, respected by his followers and admired by the world at large, whose vices and virtues will go hand in hand adown the stream of time. No. 26 Annex National’ Park—tThe ex- plorations of Dr. Hayden, United States Geol- ogist, have demonstrated that this, our own coun- try, contains natural wonders, which, in extent, grandeur, and wondrous beauty, far surpass those of any other portion of the known world. The result has been, a bill has passed Congress set. ting apart a tract of country 55 by 65 miles in ex- tent as a great NationaL Park, or mammoth pleasure-ground, for the benefit and enjoyment of the people. The entire area within the limits of the reservation is over 6,000 feet in altitude. Almost in the centre of this tract is located the Yellowstone Lake, a body of water 15 by 22 miles in extent, with an elevation of 7,427 feet. The ranges of mountains that hem the numerous val- leys on every side rise to the height of from 10,- 000 to 12,000 feet, and are covered with perpetua! snow. This country presents the most wonderful vol- canic appearance of any portion. of this conti- nent. The great number of hot springs and the geysers represent the last stages—the vent or es- cape pipes—of these remarkable volcanic mani- festations of theinternal forces. All these springs are adorned with decorations more beautiful than human mind ever conceived, and which have re- quired thousands of years for the cunning hand of nature to form. The most remarkable of these poysers throws a column of boiling hot water 15 eet in diameter to a measured altitude of 150 feet. This display is continued for hours to- oer, and so immense is the quantity of water ischarged, that during the eraption, the volume of water in the river isdoubled. Another throws a column of hot water 200 feet in height, and over a footin diameter. Itis said the geysers of Iceland, which have been the objects of interest for scien- tists and travelers of the entire world for years, sink into insignificance in comparison with oe Hot Springs of the Yellowstone and Fire-hole asins. The most wonderful story about this remark- able region is told by Langford, one of the first discoverers. Hesays: “At acertain pointon tke Yellowstone River, the water runs down a steep and perfect grade over a surface of slate-rock, which has become so smooth from the velocity of the rushing torrent, that, at a distance of twenty miles, the friction becomes so great that AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 312 the water is boiling hot.’ Wedo not vouch for the truth of this stury, and we are not certain that Langford will swear to it. The mountain rim of the Yellowstone Lake rises from 1,500 to 4,000 feet above its surface, and, except in two directions, is unbroken. To the west and southwest are breaks in the chain, through one of which appear the outlines ofa conspicuous conical peak, 10,500 feet in height. In the mountain system which surrounds the lake are born the tributaries, almost the principal sources, of three of the largest rivers on the con- tinent. Four of the most important tributaries of the Missouri—namely, the Big Horn, the Yel- lowstone, the Madison and the Gallatin, have their springs here. Flowing first north, then east, they strike the Missouri, which, in its turn, flows southeasterly to the Mississippi Valley, where its waters are blended with the stately stream that emptiesits tides at least 3,500 miles below into the Gulfof Mexico. The Snake River, whose sources are actually interlaced with those of the Madison and the Yellowstone, turns west- ward, and traverses nearly a thousand miles of territory before it joins the Columbia on its way to the Pacific Ocean. Again, the Green River, rising but a few miles from the sources of the others, seeks the Colorado of the South, which, after innumerable windings through deserts, and a roaring passage of hundreds of miles in the abysses of canyons surpassing even those of the Yellowstone in grandeur, depth, and gloom, reaches the gulf of California. Penetrating to the lofty recesses where these springs rise, the ex- plorer stands, as it were, astride of the grandest water-shed in the world. A pebble dropped into one spring touches a water-nerve of the Pacific; a pebble cast into another touches a similar nerve of the Atlantic Ocean. Itisathought to cause the wings of the spirit of a man in such a place to expand like an eagle’s. (See largeillustrations, Nos. 35 and 36.) No. 27 Annex. Ocean Steamships.— The steamers of the Occidental and Oriental Line, between San Francisco and Yokohama, leave San Francisco about the 15th of each month. The passage rates are: m S 3) As 2a | af a | 3 Payable in U. 8S. °3 1383/2 3] $s Gold Coin. 20 am | 2 ih ge BS |e |2 | 28 < A oS An San Francisco To 7 Miles, Yokohama, Japan, |$250 00/$ 85 00/$53 00 4,764 Hiogo, es 270 00} 100 00) ..... +10: Nagasaki, °‘ 290 00} 100 00} 62 00) 5,444 Shanghae, China, 300 00} 100 00} 65 00} 5,964 Hongkong, “ 300 00} 100 00) 53 00} 6,384 Calcutta, India, 45000}. .....] 2. <0 9,385 Children under 12 years of age, one-half rates; under five years, one-quarter rates: under one year, free. Family Servants, (European) eating and sleep- ing in Huropean steerage, one-half cabin rates; eatin cabin and sleeping in European steer- age, three-quarters cabin rates; eatingand sleep- ing in cabin, full cabin rates. Ibs. baggage allowed each adult, first-class or cabin passenger; 150 lbs. each, European steer- age; 100lbs. each, Chinese steerage: proportion- ate to children. 4} eral course of the river from its source to Round Trip Tickets, good for twelve months, will be sold at areduction of 12% per cent. from regular rates. An allowance of 20 per cent. on return passage will be made to passengers who paid full fare to Japan or China, or vice versa, re-embarking within six months from date of landing, and an allowance of 10 per cent. to those who return within twelve months. families whose fare amounts to FOUR FULL PASSAGES Will be allowed Y¥ per cent. reductiun. Huclusive use of staterooms can be secured by the payment ofhalfrate for extra births. The Pacific Mail steamships leave San Fran- cisco about the ist of every month, for Yokohama and Honkong, and for Sidney and Aukland via Honolulu, at about the same time—ist of each month—and for New York. via Panama, about the ist and 15th of each month. For Victoria, B.C.. Port Townsend, Seattle and Tacoma, the 10th, 20th and 30th of each month. ‘ The Oregon Steamship Co. send steamers to Portland from San Francisco every five days. Other steamers for up and down the coast, leave at changeable intervals; about weekly, however. No, 28 Annex. Col. Hudnut’s Survey. —On the west side of Promontory Point, the line known as Colonel Hudnut’s suryey of the Idaho and Oregon branch of the U. P.R. R., passes north to Pilot Springs; thence down Clear Creek or Raft River to Snake River, and along the southern bank ofthis stream to Old’s Ferry; thence across the country to Umatilla, on the Columbia River. For the entire distance between Promontory and Raft River, the country is uninviting, though not barren. From thence the route passes through a country abounding in fertile valleys and bold mountains—the latter well-wooded. ‘There is plenty of wood and other materials for building the proposed road pve ee whole length of the line. To the mouth of Raft River from Promon- tory is about 100 miles. The scenery along the line is varied, from smiling, fertile valleys to lofty, snow-clad mountains. We will speak only of the general characteristics of the route and of one or two points of remarkable interest. The main feature of the Snake or Shoshone River is its majestic cataracts. The stream, sometimes called Lewis River, is the South Fork of the Columbia, and was discovered by Lewis and Clark, who ven- tured westward of the Rocky Mountains in 1804. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, near Fremont’s Peak,in the Wind River Range, which divides Idaho and Wyoming Territories. The head waters of the stream are Gros Ventre, John Craig’s and Salt Creeks on the south, with the outlets of Lyon’s and Barret’s lakes on the north. The gen- i Bendis northwest. At this point Henry’s Tone a large stream flowing from the the north, empties its waters into the main river. Thence the course is southwesterly until the first falls are reached— about 400 miles from the river’s source. These are called the AmERICAN Fats and are very fine, but donot present so sublime an appearance as will be seen about 100 miles further down the river, where the waters leave the elevated plains of Idaho by a series of cascades, known as the Suo- SHONE Fauzs, from 30 to 60 feet high, closing the scene in one grand leap of 210 feet perpendicular. The width of the river at the pointof taking the last leap is about 700 feet. Theform ofthe falls is circular—somewhat like those of the Niagara. Be- fore the river reaches the cascades itruns between lofty walls, which close in around it until but a narrow gorge is left for the passage of the water 313 1,090 feet below the tops of the bluffs. The most complete view of the falls is obtained from Look- out Point, a narrow spit of rocks which projects from the main blufis a short distance down the stream from the falls. From this point Eagle Rock rises before us in the midst of the rapids, and almost overhanging the falls, fully 200 feet high; its pillar-like top surmounted by an eagle’s nest, where, year after year, the monarch of the air has reared its young. Near the center of the river are several islands covered with cedar, the largest one being called Ballard’s Island. Two rocky points; one on either side of the falls, are called the Two Sentinels. Excepting in point of the volume of water, the falls will compare favorably with Ni- agara. rom this point the river runs nearly west until itreaches War kagle Mountains, about 80) miles from its source, when it turns due north, follow- ing that course for 150 miles, then bending again ihe west it unites with Clark's River, forming the Columbia. After ee the last falls the country is less broken, and the work of building the road would be comparatively light for most of the way. No. 29 Annex. Western Stock Raising. | Durgin, ORR & Co.—Cattle branded \B; also some of them \B, and horses the same. Post-office, Cheyenne, W.T. Range, Bear Creek. Creienton & Co.—Horses branded quarter cir- cle open block, on left shoulder. Also, part cat- tle branded half-circle on shoulder. Postofiice Pine Bluffs, W. T. Range, Horse and Pumpkin creeks. Stock raising is an important industry. We have often expressed our belief that, ultimately, it would | be found there was not one foot of valuelesslandon | the line of the Pacific railroad. The Bitter Creek country, previous to 1868, for 80 miles was univer- sally admitted by all who knew anything about that section ofcountry, to be utterly valueless. Coal, imimmense quantities, was discovered all along the creek—great, yeins—and it is now the most CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST valuable section of the Union Pacific railroad. Portions of the Humboldt and Nevada Desert were also set down as valueless; now, see what irriga- tion has done for a portion of it, where the people have had the enterprise to adopt a system of irri- gation, as at Humboldt Station. We contend that ali the lands on the line of this road are valuable, some as mineral, some as agricultural, but the greater portion is the finest grazing land in the world. This fact, of late years, is becoming thor- oughly understood, as in 1868 there would not ex- ceed twenty thousand head of cattle on the whole line of the Pacific railroad, across the continent; now there are over 700,000 head of cattle, 30,000 head of horses, and full 450,000 head of sheep. The range is enormous, taking in broad plains, press covered, mountains, and thousands of as eautifal little foot-hills and mountain valleys as there arein the world. This section commences about 250 miles west of the Missouri River, and extends to the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, all of which, with only a few miles in- tervening, is the stock-raiser’s paradise. The ab- sence of water is the only drawback in this.inter- vening section, and in time wells will be sunk and that obstacle overcome. The valley bluffs, low hills and mountain sides of this whole section are covered with a luxuriant growth of gramma or “bunch” grass, one of the most nutritious grasses grown, together with white sage and grease-wood, upon which all kinds of stock thrive all the sea- son, without care, excepting what is necessary to prevent them from straying beyond reach, Old work-oxen that had traveled 2,500 miles ahead of the freight wagon during the season, have been turned outto winter by their owners, and by the following July they were are fat °°—fit for beef. e know this to bea fact from actual ex- perience. This country is the great pasture land of the continent. There is room for millions of cattle in this unsettled country, and then have grazing land enough to spare to feed half the stock in the nion. In the foot-hills and mountainous portion of this great grazing range, and along the line of the great water courses, there is no trouble from lack of water, for the mountain valleys are each sup- plied with creeks and rivers. Springs abound in various sections, so that no very large tract of land is devoid of natural watering places. The ass grows from nine to twelve inches high, and is peculiarly nutritious. It is always green near the roots, summer and winter. During the summer the dry atmosphere cures the standing ass as effectually as though cut and prepared for ay. The nutritive qualities of the grass remain uninjured, and stock thrive equally wellon the dry feed. Inthe winter what snow falls is ver dry, unlike that which falls in more humid cli- mates. It may cover the grass to the depth of a tew inches, but the cattlereadily remove it, reach- ing the grass without trouble. — gain, the snow does not stick tothe sides of the cattle and melt there, chilling them eon but its dryness causes it to roll from their backs, leaving their hair dry. The cost of keeping stock in this country is just what it will cost to employ herders—no more. The contrast between raising stock here and in the Hast must be evident. Again, the stocking of this country with sheep, is adding an untold wealth to the country. The mountain streams afford ample water power for manufactories, and wool enough could be grown here with which to clothe all the people of the Union, when manufactured into cloth. With the railroad to transport the cattle and sheep to the AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. a14 Eastern and Western markets, immense fortunes are now being made, and the business is compara- tively new—in its infancy. No drouths which have been experienced in this great range have ever seriously affected the pasturage, owing to the peculiar qualities of the grasses indigenous to the country. So with storms: it has seldom happened that any storms are experienced which cause loss, and none ever need to, and none ever do, when the stockis prop- erly attended to and herded. On these ranges it is common for stock of many owners to range together, and a system of brands has been adopted, and recorded with the county clerk in the section of country where the herds belong. The recording of the brands is a protec- tion against theft and loss by straying, as each cattle man knows the brands in use in his range, and each endeavors to protect the other’s interest. The illustrations that we present, show two of the brands in use, and the method adopted by all cattle men tomake known their brand, and the particular range, or home range of the cattle. These : actual names, brands, range and ad- resses. Tum Awnuat “ Rounp-Up.’—One of the most important and interesting features of the stock-raising business is the cattle ‘‘ round-up.” In the ‘free and easy’? manner of raising cattle on the broad, western plain, where the ownersniay not see one-half of his herd for six months at a time, it may be imagined that the restless Texans scatter almost from Dan to Beersheba, and that extra effort is necessary when they are finally collected by the regular spring “round up.” Companies of herders are organized to scour cer- tain sections of country, and bring every animal to a grand focal point, no matter who that animal may belong to or what its condition may be. The old-fashioned ‘*husking bee,’ *“**possum hunt * or “training day’ is vastly outdone by this wild revelry of the herders. Mounted upon their fleet- est ponies, the cow-boys scatter out in all direc- tions, gather in ‘everything that wears horns,” and at night may have the property of half-a-dozen ewners in one immense, excited herd. Then, while a cordon of herders hold the animals to- gether, representatives of the different ‘‘ brands *’ ride into the herd, single out their animals, one by one, and drive them off to be branded or mar- keted. Moving along, day after day, the scene is repeated, until the whole plains country has been visited, and every breeder has had an opportunity totake an inventory of his stock. Of course the participants ‘‘camp out’ wagons, following the herd, with blankets and provisions, the ‘ round- up” season, being one of mirth and frolic, as well as of work, from beginning to end. No. 30 Annex. The Great Cave—of Eastern Nevada, lies about forty-five miles to the southwest of Hureka. It is situatedin one ofthe low foot-hills of the Shell Creek Range, which extends for about two miles into a branch of Steptoe Valley. The ridge is low, not over 60 or 65 feet high, and presents no indications which would lead one to suspect that it guarded the en- trance to an immense cavern. The entrance to the cave would hardly be noticed by travelers, it being very low and partly obscured. Arock archway, small and dark, admits the ex- plorer, who must pass along a low passage for about 20 feet, when it gradually widens out, with acorresponding elevation of roof. Many of the chambers discovered are of great size; one, called the “dancing hall,” being about seventy by ninety feet. The roof is about forty feet from the floor, which is covered with fine gray sand. Opening into this chamber are several smaller ones, and near by, a clear, cold spring of excellent water gushes forth from the rock. Further on are more chambers, the walls of which are covered with stalactites of varied styles of beauty. Stalagmites are found on the floors in greatnumbers. It is not known how far this cave extends, but it has been explored over 4,000 feet, when a deep chasm prevented further exploration. Inpian Legenp—The Indians in this vicinity have a curious fear of this place, and cannot be tempted to venture any distance within its haunted recesses. They have a legend that ‘‘ heap” Indians went in once for a long way and none ever returned: But one who ventured in many moons ago, was lucky enough to escape, with the loss of those who accompanied him, and he is now styled ‘‘ Cave Indian.” According to the legend, he ventured in with some of his tribe and traveled until he came to a beautiful stream of water, where dwelt a great many Indians, who had small ponies and beautiful squaws. Though urged to stay with his people, ‘“‘ Cave’ preferred to return to sunlight. Watching his chances, when all were asleep, hestole away, and, after great suffer- ing, succeeded in reaching the mouth of the cave, but his people still live in the bowels of the earth. The Indians thoroughly believe the story, and will not venture within the darkness. Another story is current among the people who live near by, which is, that the Mormons were once posses- sors of this caye, and at the time when they had the rupture with the United States Government, used it as a hiding place for the plate and treas- ures of the Church and the valuables of the Mor- mon ejders. The existence of the caye was not known to the whites, unless the Mormons knew of it, until 1866. A Lirrrite History—In the latter part of the summer of 1858, a party of prospectors from Mari- posa, in California, crossed the Sierra Nevada Mountains via Yo-Semite to Mono Lake, then in Utah, but now in that part of the country set off to form Nevada. For three years the party worked placer mines and other gold along the various canyons and gulches extending eastward from the Sierras, which led others to continue prospecting further north, and who discovered Comstock Ledge. Other prospectors followed, and the dis- covery of rich veins in Lander, Esmeralda, Nye and Humboldt counties, and in the adjoining Territory of Idaho, was the result. The great “unexplored desert,’? on the map, was avoided until1865 and 1866, when parties began to branch out and discover the rich argentiferous quartz and fine timber land, extending along a series of parallel valleys, from the Humboldt to the Colo- rado River. Several New York companies became interested in these discoveries, and erected a 20- stamp mill at Newark, 22 miles north of where Treasure City now stands, to work veins in the Diamond Range. Acrossthe valley, opposite New- ark, White Pine Mountain rises 10,285 feet. Here the “ Monte Christo ” mill was erected, at which a Shoshone Indian came one day with a specimen of better ‘“‘nappias’’ than had yet been discov- ered, and, by his guidance, the rich mines dis- covered at Treasure Hill and the ‘“* Hidden Treas- ure’ mine were located and recorded on the 14th of September, 1867. But, aside from the produc- tion of mineral, along these mountain ranges, another source of wealth exists in the valleys ex- tending roe Nevada and Utah. Werefer to that branch of business which has been gradually increasing—one which will bring a large revenue to the settlers along these valleys in stock-rais- ing. Bunch grass grows in abundance, and cattle 315 + CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST are easily wintered and fattened, finding a ready market in the mining districts and westward t? Sacramento and San Francisco. No. $31 Annex. Nevada Kalls—In orderto form a proper idea of the superb picture, No. 13, of the large series, it will be necessary to pre- mise that the Yo-Semite Valley is an immense orge, in the western slope of the Sierra Nevada ountains, about seven miles in length, from} east to west, and from one-eighth of a mile to two) miles in width, from north tosouth. The walls surrounding this mighty chasm are nearly perpen- dicular, and from 2,090 to 6,000 feet high. The various streams that find their way into the valley flow over this tremendous wall on entering. At the eastern end of the valley proper, it divides into two canyons, pee still eastward, but diverging as they mountthe Sierras. Itisthrough the south one of these canyons, that the main branch of the Mercede River flows, and on enter- ing the valley, it makes two leaps. The lower one, or Vernal Fall, of 450 feet in height, 100 feet wide, and from three to four feet deep, where it leaps the square-edged barrier. Continuing up the canyon for a mile, above the Vernal Fall, amid the wildest scenery imaginable, and we reach the Great Nevada Fall, the subject of our picture. The canyon narrows, in a wedge-like form, to quite a point, and just at the right of this vortex is thefall. Itis 900 feet nia 75 feet wide at the brink, and 130 feet below. Regarded as to its height, volume, purity of water, and general surroundings, it is one of the grandest objects inthe world. The spectator facing the east will observe on his left the “Cap of Lib- erty” lifting its rounded summit of smooth and weather-polished granite, 2,000 above the Fall, 5,000 feet above the valley below, or 9,000 feet above the sea. To paint in words, in the space allowed us, the beauties of the fall, the bolder scenery, the foliage, mosses and ferns, always moist fromthe spray, and brilliant green in sum- mer, the roar andrush of the fast-flowing river, the majestic grandeur of the rocky frame-work, which towers above and around it,is simply an impossibility; we shall not try, but refer the reader’s imagination and judgment with these statistics to the beautiful picture, which has been accurately engraved from a faithful photo- graph. (See ANNEX No. 10.) No. 32 ANNEX. Pioneer Mail Enter- prises—CRossINeé THE SIERRAS ON SNOW-SKATES —The rapid settlement of the. fertile valleys ying at the eastern base.of the High Sierras of California, created a want for mail facilities in ad- vance of regular methods. It is well known, that previous to the winter of 1854, the fearless settlers of this isolated inland world were shut out from communion with the great throbbing heart of civ- ilization on the outside for three or four months of every year, by that almost inaccessible and snow-clad range. Those whose temerity let events bid defiance to this battle-ground of the storms, and sought to scaleits snowy ramparts, too ee entity became snow-blind, or foot-frozen ; or, still more frequently, lay down to that sleep which knows no waking—their only mantle the fast-falling snow. In this emergency, one brave heart, at least, was found to dare the perilous task of carrying |. the United States Mail to those enterprising pio- neers. It was Mr.John A. Thompson, a Norwe- gian. Early education and habit had made him an adept in the use of the snow skate. Without hesitation, he made a contract with T. J. Matte- son, of Murphy’s Camp, Calaveras county, to con- tinue postal service in winter, as well as in sum- mer, over the route, via the Calaveras grove of big trees (the only grove then known, to Carson City, for $200 per month, without regard to the depth of snow. ur illustration introduces our heroin propria persona. It will be seen at a glance that the snow-skate is totally unlike the Indian, or Cana- dian snow-shoe—the latter being adapted, mainly, to a light, loose snow, and level country; and the former to compact masses, and mountainous dis- tricts. The ‘shoe,’ moreover, is of slow and la- borious use; whereas the ‘“‘skate’’ is of exceed- ingly rapid and exhilarating adaptability—espe- cially on down grades, when its speed is fre- quently equal to the ordinary locomotive. The motion is a slide—not astep. The pole in the mail carrier’s hand acts as a brake on dowu grades, and as a propeller up hill. In Sierra county, California, where snow often falls to the depth of ten or twelve feet, the snow- skate is a great favorite, becoming a source of pleasant recreation, on moon-lit evenings —visits of from ten to fifteen miles being made after tea, and returning the same evening. Here, too, snow-skating forms one of the most popular of pastimes—racing. A belt, studded and set with silver, becomes the prize of the successful racer Sometimes young ladies will challenge gentle- men toarace for a pocket handkerchief, or a pair of gloves—which, of course, is always accepted The accidents which sometimes occur throw no damper on the sport. On the second trip of Mr. Thompson, when nearly on the summit of the Sierra, he sought the protection of a friendly cabin for the night; when, upon entering it, he saw the almost lifeless form of a man with his feet frozen, and without any other covering than the clothes he wore. His boots were frozen fast to his feet. He had been lying in this deplorable condition, alone, for twelve days, with nothing to save life except raw flour. Although death would soon have lifted from him his burden of suffering, he continued hopeful to the last, that a kind Providence would send the daring mail carrier,as an angel of mercy, to de- liver him. Tears started to hiseyes when he told of the joy of the snow-bound and helpless, as he heard the muffled, though welcome, sound of snow-skates. As soon as all necessary assistance could be rendered, and the man made as comfort- able as possible, Mr. Thompson, without resting his weary limbs, started out upon the snowy waste in search of relief. He did not search in vain. The simple recital of his story was enough to thrill his listeners, and to enlist all the volun- teers necessary to bring the sufterer into safety. All desirable supplies, and alight sled upon which to haul him, were soon provided; and, although heavy snow-storms impeded their way, they soon became his deliverers. No. 33 Annex. The Donner Party— (THustration page 105). Around this beautiful sheet of water—nestled so closely in the embrace of these pueeny, mountains, smiling and joyous in its matchless beauty, as though no dark sorrow had ever occurred on its shores, or its clear waters reflected back the wan and haggard face of starva- tion—is clustered the saddest of memories—a memory perpetuated by the name of the lake. In the fall of ’46, a party of emigrants, most from Illinois, arrived at Truckee River, worn an wasted from their long and arduous journey. Among that party was a Mr. Donner, who, with his family, were seeking the rich bottom lands of the California rivers, the fame of which had reached them in their Eastern home. At that time afew hardy pioneers had settled near Sut- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. ter’s Fort, brought there by the returning trap- pers, who, with ,wondrous tales of the fertility of the soil and the genial climate of California, had induced some of their friends to return with them aad settle in this beautiful land. The Donner party, as it is generally called, was one of those parties, and under the guidance of a trapper, was j urneying to this then almost unknown land. . rriving at the Truckee, the guide, who knew the danger threatening them, hurried them forward, that they might cross the dreaded Sierras ere the snows of winter should encompass them. Part of -he train hurried forward, but Mr. Donner, who had a large lot of cattle, wouldnothurry. Despite all warnings, he loitered along until, at last, he reached the foot of Donner Lake, and encamped there for the night. The weather was growing cold, and the black and See betokened the coming storm. At Donner Lake, the road turned to the left in those days, following up Coldstream, and crossing the Summit, near Sum- mit Meadows, a very difficult and dangerous route in fair weather. The party who encamped at the lake that night numbered 16 souls, among whom were Mrs. Donner and her four children. During the night, the ‘threatened storm burst over them in allits fury. The old pines swayed and bent be- fore the blast which swept over the lake, bearing destruction and death on its snow-laden wings. The snow fell heavily and fast, as it cam fall in those mountains. Most of the frightened cattle, despite the herder’s vigilance, “‘ went off with the storm.” In the morning the terror-stricken emigrants be- held one vast expanse of snow, and the large white flakes falling thick and fast. Stillthere washope. Some of the cattle and their horses remained. They could leave wagons, and with the horses they might possibly cross the mountains. But here arose“another difficulty, Mr. Donner was un- well, and could not go—or preferred to wait until the storm subsided; and Mrs. Donner, like a true woman, refused to leave her husband. : The balance of the party, with the exception of one, a German, who decided to stay with the fam- ily, placed the children on the horses, and bade r.and Mrs. Donner a dast good-by ; and, after a long and pexilous battle with the storm, they suc- ceeded in soeseng ae mountains and reaching the valleys, where the danger was at an end. The storm continued, almost without intermission, for several weeks, and those who had crossed the Summit knew that an attempt to reach the im- prisoned party would be futile--worse than folly, until the spring sun should melt away the icy barrier. Of the long and dreary winter passed by these three persons, who shall tell? The tall stumps (see illustration) standing near where stood the cabin, attestthe depth ofsnow. Some of themare 20 feet in height. Early in the spring a party of brave men, led by Claude Cheney, started from the valley to brin out the prisoners, expecting to find them alive an well, for it was supposed that they had provisions enough to last them through the winter, but it seems they were mistaken, After a desperate effort, which required weeks of toil and exposure, the party succeeded in scaling the mountains, and came to the camp of the Donners. Whatasight met the first glance! In arudely constructed cabin, before the fire, sat the Dutchman, holding in a vice-like grasp a roasted arm and hand, which he was greedily eat— ing. With a wild and frightened look hesprang to his feet and confronted the new comers, holding on to the apm Be though he feared they would de- 316 prive him ofhisrepast. The remains of the arm were taken from him by main force, and the ma- niac secured. The remains of Mr. Donner were found, and, with those of his faithful wife, given such burial as the circumstances would permit, and, taking the survivor with them, they returned to the valley. The German recovered, and still lives. His story is, that soon after the party left, Mr. Don- ner died, and was buriedin the snow. Thelast of the cattle escaped, leaving but little food; and when that was exhausted, Mrs. Donner died. Many dark suspicions of foul play on the part of the onlysurvivor have been circulated, but whether they are correct will never be known, until the final unraveling of time’s dark mysteries. No. 34 Annex. “Roll "Em Through.” —October 17th, 1872, as an excursion train, loaded with passengers, most of whom were women and children, rounded the curve close below the tun- nel, and with No. 6 train thundering along close behind, the timbering in the tunnel was discovered by thefiremanto beonfire. The engineer, Johnny Bartholomew, comprehending the position at a glance, made one of the most brilliant dashes, un- der the circumstances, on record. The train passed through the tunnel safely, when to have stopped short would have been sure death. G. H. Jen- nings, Esq., of Brooklyn, New York, has put the following words in the mouth of the brave en- gineer: See page 175. Tain’t very much on the tancy, And all that sort of stuff, For an engineer on a railroad Is apt to be more “‘on the rough;” He don’t ‘‘go much” on “this handsome,” I freely ‘acknowledge the corn,” But he has gotto “‘git up” on his “‘wide-awake,” That’s “just as sure’s you’re born.” Now, ll tell you alittle story, *Bout “arun’’ we had for our necks, When we thought ‘‘old Gabe” had called us, To “ante up our checks.” We came ’round the curve by the tunnel, Just beyond the American Flat, When my fireman sings out, ‘Johnny! Lookahead! My God, what’s that?” You bet, I warn’t long in sightin’-— There was plenty for me to see, With a train full of kids an’ wimmen, And their lives all hangin’ on me— For the tunnel was roarin’ and blazin’, All ragin’ with fire an’ smoke, And “Number Six’ close behind us— “Quick, sonny! shove in the coke.” “Whistle ‘down brakes,’ I first thought: Then, think’s I, ‘‘old boy, *t won't do;°’ And with hand on throttle an’ lever, I knew I must roll °em through! Through the grim mouth of the tunnel— Through smoke an’ flame, as well— Right into the “gateway of death,” boys; ight smack through the “‘jaws of hell!” The staunch “old gal” felt the pressure Of steam through her iron joints; She acted just like she was homan— Just like she ‘‘knew all the points; ” She glided along the tramway, With speed of a lightning flash, With a howl assuring us safety, Regardless of wreck or crash. I *spose I might have “‘ jumped the train, In hope to save sinew and bone, 317 And left them wimmen and children To take that ride alone; But I tho’t of a day of reck’nin’; And whatever ‘Old John” done here, No Lord ain’t going to say to him then, “You went back as an engineer!” No. 35 Annex. The Valley of the Yel- lewstone—No. 7, of the lange illustrations, is engraved from a photograph taken by Prof. Hay- den, the great explorer ofthe West. It presents a view of one of the finest and most picturesque portions of the valley. It is looking southward, above the first or lower canyon, and directly on the Snowy Range, whose white-capped summits may be seen on the left of the picture, extending up theriver. Below is the first canyon, between the high, narrow, limestone walls of which, the Yellowstone flows, about three miles, and then makes its exit from the mountain region proper. The valley is about 20 miles in length, and from four to five miles in width, and is one of the most delightful portions of Montana. (See ANNEX No. 26 and 36.) Wo. 36 AnnEX. The Falls of the Yel- lowstone—as illustrated in No.8 of our series of large views is one of the most perfect pictures ever made. Itis from a photograph taken by Prof. Hay- den, and engraved by Bross, of New York. Itrepre- sents the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone, where the waters make a leap into the canyon, a dis- tance of 350 feet. Prof. Hayden, in his report, gays: ‘After the waters of the Yellowstone roll over the upper falls, (140 feet,) they flow with great rapidity over an apparently fiat, rocky bottom, which spreads out to nearly double its width above the falls, and continues thus until near the Lower Fall, when the channel again contracts, and the waters seem, as it were, to gather themselves into one compact mass, and plunge over the preci- pice in detached drops of foam, a8 white as snow, some of the huge globules of water shooting down through the sunlight, like the white fire contents of an exploded rocket. Itis a spectacle infinitely more beautiful than the grandest picture ever presented of the famous Falls of Niagara. In the immediate vicinity of the Lower Falls, and in the grand canyon, the scene is indescribably beauti- . Aheavy mist arises from the water at the foot of the falls, so derse that one cannot ap- proach within from two to three hundred feet of them, and even then the clothes will be drenched in a few moments. Upon the glowing, yellow, near vertical walls of the west side, the mist mostly falls, and for 300 feet from the bottom, the wall is covered with a thick matting of mosses, sedges, grasses, and other vegetation of the most vivid een, which have sent their small roots into the softened rocks and are nour- ished by the ever-ascending spray. (See ANNEX No. 26 and 35.) No.3¢@ Annex. Falis of the Willamette River—tThe scene of the large illustration, No. 9, represents the Falls of the Willamette River, at Oregon City, Oregon, where the hills approach the river on each side, forcing the river through adeep canyon, and over a fall of from 30 to 40 feet. The cliffs on either side of. the river rise abruptly hundreds of feet in height, and are cov- ered at the top and less precipitous page with a rowth of evergreens. Locks are built on the regon City side of the river, large enough to ad- mit the passage of boats 200 feet and feet in width. Water power is also supplied from the same source of 4,000 horse powers, which is used forrunning woolen mills and other manufactories at Oregon City. CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST No. 38 ANNEX. Cape Horn-is a bold promontory, situated on the north side of the Col- umbia River, in Washington Territory, about mid- Rie between the Cascade Mountains and the Dalles. This promontory is of basaltic forma- tion—like most others on the Columbia—and rises near 250 feet perpendicular from the water’s edge, and extends about one mile in length, the lower part peqjociiug several hundred feet out into the river. Cape Horn derives its name from the dan- ger in passing it. Our large illustration, No. 10, represents a small party.of pleasure and curiosity seekers, on a pleasant afternoon, when the winds had lulled, who have successfully rounded the cape. No. 39 AnnEX. Wood Hauling in Ne- vada—No. 11, of the large views, is a beautiful en- graving, representing a ten-mule team loaded with wood. The three wagons are coupled to- gether like a train of cars— called “ trail wagons,” —on which are loaded twenty-four cords of wood. At the point represented in the picture, the team is about onthe dividing line between Gold Hill, down the canyon to the rear of the wagons, one- fourth mile—and Virginia City, directly ahead, about the same distance, around the point of the mountain. This plan of coupling wagons is quite common on the Pacific Coast, for all kinds of heavy hauling. The picture was engraved by Mr. Bross, of New York, from a photograph taken by Sutterley, of Virginia City. No. 40 ANNEX. Mirror Lake, Yo-Sem- ite Valley—In the large illustration, No. 12, is presented one of the most wonderful, as well as charmingly picturesque scenes to be witnessed inthis most romantic valley. As will be seen, it represents one of the most bold and striking views of a charming little sheet of crystal water of al- most a couple of acres in extent, in which numer- ous schools of speckled trout may be seen gaily disporting themselves. The waters are as still as death, as though awed by the wondrous grandeur of its surroundings. Close to the southeast stands the majestic ‘South Dome,” 4,590 feet in altitude above the lake. On the north and west lie immense rocks that have become detached from the tops of the mountain, 3,000 feet above; among these grow a large variety of trees and shrubs, many of which stand on and overhang the margin of the lake, and are reflected on its mirror bosom, as shown in the picture. (See ANNEX No. 31.) No. 41 Annex. The Pony Express— was an enterprise started in 1860, by Majors. Russell & Co., of Leavenworth, Kan., to meet the pressing business wants of the Pacific Coast. It will be remembered that the usual time made on the mail service, by steamer, between New York and San Francisco, was about twenty-six days. The first Overland mail—which arrived in San Francisco Oct. 10th, 1858—carried it from St. Louis, Mo., via Los Angeles, in twenty-three days, twenty-one hours. The Pony Hxpress—which left St. Joseph, Mo., and San Francisco, simulta- neously, April 3d, 1860—succeeded in transporting it through safely on its first trip, in ten days; on its second, in 14 days; third, nime days; fourth, ten days; fifth, nine days; sixth, nine days 3a distance of 1,996 miles. This rapid transmission of business correspondence was of incalculable value to business men in those days. _ This service, we can readily see, required cour- age and endurance, as well as enterprise and the expenditure of large sums of money. The mo- ment the ferry boat touched land on the opposite shore, the Pony Expressman mounted his horse; Sa ee and by day or by night, in starlight or darkness; whether sun-dried or soaked, snow-covered or frozen; among friends or through foes; be he lonely or merry—onward he hastened, until, at the thrice-welcomed station, he leaped from his saddle torest. Here another was ready, whose horse, like himself, had been waiting, perhaps, without shelter; and with acheery “ Good night, boys,” he alloped off, and was soon lost in the distance. ire rides on alone, over prairies and mountains ; whether up hill or down; on rough ground or smooth, until he descries in the distance the goal of his hopes, and the station is reached. To realize even partially the dangers of this ser- vice, we need only glance at the newspapers of the day, where such items as the fol owing were chronicled: ‘‘The pony expressman has just re- turned from Cold Springs—driven back by the In- dians.”” ‘‘ The men at Dry Creek Station have all been killed, and itis thought the Robert's Creek Station has been destroyed. Eight animals were stolen from Cold Springs Monday.” ‘+ Bartholo- mew Riley died last night from a wound received at, the Cold Springs Station, on the 16th of May. Just arrived from the Indian battle-ground, at Pyramid Lake, tired as he was, he volunteered to ride to the next change, then, a distance of eighty-five miles, where he received the wound of which he died.” ‘ Six Pike’s Peakers found the body of the station-keeper horribly mutilated, and. all the animals missing, at Simpson’s Park.” These few incidents will readily illustrate the stuff of which the pony expressmen and station keepers were made; as wellas the dangers and privations to which they were exposed. To tell of the losses in men from the Indians, and of horses and other pony both from volunteers as well as Indians, with the many thrilling adventures of those who participated in this daring enterprise, however interesting, would make too long a recital for these pages. No. 42 Annex. Sierra Nevada Moun- taims—The large illustration, No. 14, of the Sierras, is from a photograph, and affords a beau- tiful view of the highest point of the Sierra Ne- vada Mountains, passed over by the Central Pa- cific railroad. There are to be seen a succession of tunnels and snow-sheds, which extend without a break for 28 miles; below is the “‘Gem of the Sierras," Donner Lake. (For description, see pages 180, 181, 182 and 183 of this book.) No. 43 AnnEx. Mount Shasta—as shown in No. 15, of our large views, is a prominent fea- ture in the landscape of the Sacramento Valley, at the head of which itis located. The view is looking to the northeast. Inthe fore- ground is the broad valley of the Sacramento, en come towering forest trees, massive rocks, and a yariety of foliage, upon which alternate patches of shade and sunlight are thrown with striking effect. Above all, towering high in mid- air, Mount Shasta springs, in a series of graceful curves, far a into an almost unclouded heaven, its sides and summits enfolded in the eternal snows. The contrast between the verdnre-clad valley and the cold, wintry peaks of old Shasta, king of mountains, is a chief interest in the pic- ture, reminding the spectator of some of the most striking effects of Alpine scenery. Mt. Shasta is 14,440 feet high. (See further description on page 196.) No. 44 Annzx. Woodward Gardens— These gardens were laid out in 1860 by R. B. Woodward, Esq., a gentleman of enterprise and refined taste, to surround, adorn and beautify his AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 318 Se RSE SEGRE Gc Gc ee ea private residence, situated near the center of the grounds. To this end the continents of both America and Europe were searched to procure every variety of ornamental trees, exotics, indi- genous plants, or articles of rare virtue and value. For us to attempt to describe these beau- tiful grounds, and do justice to the subject. were we able, would take a larger book than the Tour- ist. They must be seen to be appreciated. You will find in the “Art Gallery ® rare paintings and statuary ; in the “ Zoological department a great variety of different kinds of wild animals, including the California lion, anda mammoth grizzly bear, weighing 1,600 pounds; also a great variety of California birds. In these-grounds are towering evergreen trees and crystal lakes, oriental arbors and beautiful statuary, delightful nooks and shady retreats, with creeping vines, fragrant flowers, sparkling fountains, sweet music, and, above all, the glo- rious California sky. Possessed of all these lux- uriant surroundings, aud with ample income, could any person be surprised that Mr. Wood- ward should persistently decline to open them to the curious public? But the time came at. last. It was when the soldiers and sailors of this coun- try lay bleeding in the hospitals, on the ships, in the camps, and on the battlefields, with widows, orphans, suffering, and death on every side. The sanitary fund was low. won must be had! Then it was that his noble heart leaped to the res- cue. The grounds were then thrown open to the public in aid of the Sanitary Fund. The re- ceipts were princely; and no one can say how many lives were saved, or the sufferings of the last moments of life alleviated, by the aid of the generous proprietor of the Woodward Gardens? These gardens were opened permanently to the public in May, 1866. They occupy five acres of ound, tour of which are bounded by Market, ission, 13th and 14th streets, with one acre to the south of 14th street, connected by tunnel un- der that street from the main garden. No. 45 ANNEX. The Geysers—No. 17 of our large series of views gives a very truthful picture of this wonderful region. Here extremes meet ina most astonishing way, if the diversity of mineral springs can be called extremes, as they are over two hundred in number and possess every variety of characteristics; some are hot and others are icy cold; some contain white sulphur, some black, some red, or yellow; others alum—and boiling alum at that; others iron; others soda; others —— oh, well, it’s idle to go on particularizing. You have but to name your spring, and it is ready for vou. Side by side boil and bubble the hottest of hot springs, and the coldest of cold ones, being frequently but a few inches apart. Indeed, so closely do they lie together that the greatest care must be exercised lest one shall step knee-deep into a boiling cal- dron or an icy bath. Even the rocks become thoroughly heated, and quantities of magnesia, sulphur, alum, epsom salts, and many other chemicals, lie thickly strewn about, making a sort of druggist’s paradise. The noises, too, and the smells, are as diversified as the character of the springs ; some hiss, some murmur, some roar. Of these springs, one is known as the “ Devil’s Grist-mill”’; another, the “Calliope”: then the “ Steamboat Geyser,”’ the ‘‘ Witch’s Caldron,” the “Mountain of Fire,” the latter of which contains more than a hundred apertures, and in all_ of these are shown, each for itself, some interesting and remarkable peculiarity. (See route to the Geysers on pages 222 and 224.) sa nm lant [es 2 © a A Zz << 4 re A > ° i & wi

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We learned from a half-breed, on a re- cent visit to Arizona, that Mi-ra-ha, after his re- ture to Arizona, resolved to gather his forces and capture one of these Pacific Railroad ‘‘fire-wacons. But as Gen. Crook made it very lively for him at home for many years after his return, and as Cept. Porter sent him to his “happy hunting ground,” in 1876, he has probably got all he can attend to. No. 49 Annex. Palace Hotel at San EFrancisco—This monster hotel of the world, is situated in the city of San Francisco occupying one entire block of ground, 344 by 265 feet, bounded by New Montgomery, Market, Annie and Jessie streets. It is seven stories high (115 feet), the foundation walls are twelve feet thick, while the exterior and interior walls range from 1% feet to 4 4éteet in thickness. The foundation walls, at their base, are built ‘with inverted arches. All exterior, interior and partition walls, at every ‘five feet, commencing from the bottom of the foundation, are banded to- gether with bars of iron, forming, as it were, a perfect iron basket-work filled in with brick. The quantity of iron so used increases in every story towards the ruof, and in‘the upper story the iron bands are only two feet apart. The roof is of tin, the partitions of brick and the cornice of zinc andiron. The building has three courts, the center one haying an iron-framed glass covering, and is 144 by 84 feet, with a drive-way and sidewalk opening on New Montgomery street, forty feet wide. The two outer courts, from the basement level, are each 22 by 185 feet, with two drive-ways, 20 feet wide, one from Market and An- nie streets, and one from Annie and Jessie streets. These are connected by two brick-arched passage- ways, ten feet in width, allowing ample space for . oe eee team to pass under and through em. Besides the city water-works, a supply of water comes from four artesian wells of a ten-inch bore, which have a capacity of 28,000 gallons per hour. A reservoir is located under the center court, cap- able of containing 630,000 gallons. On the roof are seven tanks, which will contain 128,000 gallons. The hotel is supplied with two steam force pumps for water, two additional for fire, five ele- vators, together with all the modern improvements, and built throughout in the most substantial man- ner. (See illustration page 213.) No. 50 Aynex. Fares to Black Hills— From Omaha, ist class, $45; emigrant, a from Cheyenne or Sidney, $40; from Ogden, Utah, $70; from San Francisco, $116. Passengers can have choice of route, via Sidney or Cheyenne, as the rates are the same. No. 51 Annex. Books of Reference— ‘The Resources of California,” by John 8. Hit- tell. A. Roman & Co., San Francisco. This is a valuable work. “SCENES OF WONDER AND CURIOSITY IN Cati- FORNIA,” by J. M. Hutchings. A. Roman & Co., San Francisco. be om ponvegs"s CALIFORNIA ;” Harper & Bro., New York. Wentworth’s “Resources of Caltfornia;” a monthly newspaper. “BrerwEEN THE Gatxs;” by B. F.Taylor. S. 0. Griggs &Co., Chicago. This is a perfect gem ofa work. The descriptions are of the finest pen 320 a | pictures of California and the ‘ Overland Route,” we ever saw. Taylor’s ingenuity asa word painter has few equals; he is a hiyu chief. pen ey® “PactFic Coast Business Directory,” which comprises everything of the sort west of ce poeey Mountains—is an invaluable work of the ind. The “Svientific Press,” by Dewey & Co., San Francisco, is a Joarna] that everybody interested in—or who wants to know anything about—the Pacific Coast should be sure to read. “ARIZONA AS IT 18,” by H. C. Hodge, Hsq., Hurd & Houghton, New York, is the most com- plete work on Arizona ever published. In Press: “Sones or THE SouTHWwEst,”” by Theodore F. Price, will contain graphic poetical descriptions of the Trans-Mississippi country, east of the Rocky Mountains. This book will be found an invaluable work for all those who wish to pre- serve the memory of scenes and incidents of this most beautiful and romantic country. No. 52 Annex. “ Prickey.” the Horned TWoad.—This singular little member of the lizard species is certainly a native Californian. It, is found upon nearly every dry hill, or gravelly plain ; and although it is rare in some districts, in others itisstillcommon. There are several varieties and sizes of it, and all perfectly harmless. It lives chiefly on flies and small insects. A California friend of ours had a pair of these picketed in front of his cabin for over three months; and, one morning, the male toad wound itself around the picket pin and strangled to death, and the same day the female followed his example. Upon a post mortem examination of the female, fifteen eggs were found about the size and shape of a small wren’s egg. (See illustration, page 115.) No. 53 Annex. Wo-Semite and Big Trees—By the new Madera Route, passen- gers take sleeping cars at San Francisco, at 4 Pp. m., take supper at Lathrop, at 8 P. m.. and arrive at Madera at 12, midnight, occupy the cars till six the next morning, then take one of Kimball’s palace coaches, and behind “six-in- hand,” start for Fresno Flats, 35 miles distant, and take dinner; thence 20 miles to Clarks, and 23 miles turther—%8 miles from Madera—reach the valley at 8o’clock P.M. This route is via Fresno and Mari- osa big tree groves, and it is claimed, saves one ay in time over all other routes. eturning, a route can be taken via Vernal and Nevada Falls, Glacier’s Point and Sentinel Dome, and thence to Clark’s, saving a day in time by so doing. Parties, whose “‘timeis money,” can leave San Francisco and make the “round trip” inside of four days. Return parties, who choose, can take the route via Mariposa to Mercede. Tickets are ‘ood until used, verland tickets, including Yo- emite and the “Big Trees,” can be purchased at all the principal ticket offices in the east. E Another route is to Mercede, by same train, stop over at the El Capitan Hotel, and next mor- ning take coaches via either Snelling and Coulter- ville, or via Mariposa. Taking the Coulterville route, 12 miles, at Marble Springs, is Bower's Cave; 20 more, Hazel Green. From Hazel Green, elevation 6,699 feet, a fine view of the great San Joaquin Valley can be obtained. Here the Mc- Lane wagon road leads off to the Mercede Grove of Trees. At Crane Flat, 34miles from Coulterville, a trail leads off to the Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees, one mile distant. There are 31 trees, the | langeat being 36 feet in diameter. The first view! of Yo-Semite is had at Valley View, 40 miles from Coulterville and 12 miles from Yo-Semite, Dis- tance by this route about 95 miles, 821 CROFUTT’S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST The Mariposa route is via the town of Mari- posa, 46 miles, thence to Clark’s, 31 miles. At Clark’s, a road leads to the Mariposa grove of trees—427 in number—the largest being 34 feet in diameter. From Clark's, itis 23 miles to the val- ley—making, by this route, 100 miles from Mercede. No. 54 Annex. Our Artists—The greater portion of the engraving in this work was exe- cuted by R. S. Bross, of New York, and ©. W. Chandler, of Ravenswood, Illinois. Nearly all the large views, including “Utah’s Best Crop,” “Woman of the Period” and “Brigham Young,” were engraved from photographs, by Mr. Bross, while the ‘‘Orange Orcnard,” ‘The Loop,” “Cross- ing the Sangre de Christo Mountains,” “Yucca Palm,” ‘‘Hanging Rock of Utah,’ etc., were en- graved by Mr. Chandler. The photographs were by Savage, of Salt Lake City, and Watkins and Houseworth, of San Fran- cisco. All these artists, we take pleasure in rec- ommending. No. 55 ANNEX. Arizoma—is a Territory of 122,000.square miles, more than double the size of the State of Pennsylvania, and, if reports are true, contains a wealth of minerals far exceeding any portion ofthe United States. Indian difficulties have had much to do in retarding the settlement of the Territory, but happily they are now at an end, and the proximity of the “‘iron horse” has had a tendency to direct attention to this heretofore almost inaccessible region, the result of which will soon enable the land of Arizunna—“‘The Beau- tiful of the Sun’’—to come forward and demand admission into the Union of States as one more star in the bright constellation. Spanish Adven- turers penetrated Arizona as early as 1540, but no permanent settlement was made until 1560, when the Jesuit Fathers settled with their followers at Tucson. In 1725 there were thirty missions within the present limits of Arizona, besides seventy-one Indian villages in charge of the Jesuit Mission- aries. At that time these missions were in the height of their prosperity, and from which time they commenced to decline, owing principally to Indian difficulties. Many of the missions were burned and the priests murdered. Arizona was obtained from Mexico by the treaty of Guadalupe ee in 1848, and by the Gadsden Purchase in The Southern Pacific Railroad Company were the first to build a railroad to the line of Arizona, and, we believe, possess the ability to complete the line across the Territory from west to east should the Government grant them the privilege. But of the intentions of the company we know nothing further than the common report, that they have all the material at hand to complete two hun- dred miles more, just as soon as they are allowed sotodo. That the route would bea profitable one and one greatly needed, there can be little doubt, traversing, as it will, one of the richest mineral and pastoral regions in the world. ETEMS. Gold—Itis reported that Sir Fran- cis Drake was the first discoverer of gold on the Pacific Coast. He landed on the coast a fiw miles north of the Bay of San Francisco, in the summer of 1578, and reported to Queen Elizabeth: ““There is no part of earth here to be taken u wherein there is not a reasonable quantity of gol and silver.’’ Yet the discovery was not followed up. Big Grape Vine—The largest grape vine in California covered about one acre of land, and bore a crop of 12,000 pounds of grapes a year. It was four and a half feet in circumference, and six feet high, before branching out. It was dug up and taken to the Centennial Exhibition in 1876. “Where Can IE Go in the Western Country to Make Money ?”—When we are in the Eastern States, that question is one that we are called upon almost daily to ~ answer. Mr. Greeley once advised the young man to ‘‘Go West,” but did not tell him what to do, to succeed. We answer the question, unhesitatingly: You can make money aNy- WHERE in the great West, if you will peel off your coat and go towork. But if you have no money, and are afraid or ashamed to work, stay at home, if you have one, and let your friends support you. It would take a million such to make one live Western man. Butif you have any ambition and self-reliance, and will work at the first opportu- nity—and will hunt around for the opportunity— will let gambling, whisky and kindred vices alone, you can make ‘“‘a bushel of money,” in a few years, anywhere. The wantof the Far West is good, hon est, reliable, steady men. Jfakea good reputation —that is the main qualification. Do not be afraid to wear out a pick, shovel or drill, or to engage in any other honest labor—but don’t hunt for a clerkship or expect to be petted, or wait for some one to proffer you nuggets of gold; but remember, it must be yourown industry, your own energy, your own good manner, that will bring success. CQ SSS ereneremereeerere nn nee AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 3822 CGBIN BIER ATS ION ID BEX —Conrirnvep From PacE 24. Paax.|Separation .......... 102 PAGE. Visalis 3. .66¢.00555. 237 PROCKUN 1... cc ceecu ce 191! Sepulveda........... 244\Table es. secre one LOM VISER Soe eee aval ROSCOC oc. wee es 52iSeven Palms........ 253/Tamarack . -..-.. 184/ Virginia City, M..... 140 ROVE a oo sec. es 5 149|Schuyler.......... .. 43 Tamalpais. . eee esee 225) Virginia City, N..... 175, Rye Patch........... 166}Sheridan ............ 194)Taylorsville ......... 226|Washatoya ........-. 86 Rainerord... <6 knee eee Pol] SHOTIOAD. 02-2 cece SUPT A VLOTS. 0. ws ons eeo ose 64; Wadsworth....... .. 169 BAVANUS oo ose cc ieee ey 251|Shoshone............ IGliTecoma ..........-0% 149)Walnut Grove . 2 221 Salt Gake........,--. 124)Shady Run.......... 184/Tehama............. 197) Wa@lSCDS se coc nec eu cen 86 Salt'Creek.. ........ 8b5iShelby ... .......... 46\Tennants. .......... 230)Wasatch, U.P... ... ae Sacramento.......... | 192 Shelton... . 2.0% ..0d5 46|/Terrace.............. 149 Wasatch, ABs oe AOR Santa Clara, Col... . 86/Silver Creek......... 44|Tehachapi .......... 241 Wash-a-kie Leon ginias 104 Santa Monica........ 245|Silver City, Nev..... 175/Thompson .. « 220) Washoe. . 62.2.0 17 Panta Ang. ... 2... ..~ 248) Silver City, Idaho... 148 Thayer 0. .--...- sone LOST WAROO on. eee se 40 San Leandro......... 210/Silver Station........ 175|/Tie Siding. on. os) 92 Waterloo 222.0... 452 40 San Carlosi:.......... SOPslaMey.... .....4..-- 54|Tipton, OP caccwcs 104| Watsonville ........ 231 | Santa Clara, Gal...... 229|\Smith Hill........... 70/Tipton, C. PPiecue 238) Warren... 2,-2.0... 24 8 | Santa Cruz........-- 229)Smithville........... 139|Tooele City.......... 185|Washington ........, 200 | Santa Rosa.......... 222}Simpson,...........- O8i Tomales... .. 2... 5 126/Weber Quarry....... 119 | San Joaquin.......... 285 /Sodaville ........-..- Roe LOMNO....02 02s. << wn 150) Weber... 05.50. she LeO i” San Mipuel.......... 228) Solidad.............. 233/Tocoluma..... ..... 226; Walters ..0.25..2 2) 253 | San Bruno .......... 228/Soto...........22 60% 197 Truckee ............. 177i Walco ss oiics ic. sas 100 | San Francisco ...... 214)/Sonoma ............. 222/Tracy, U. P......... O7| Welle, o.5 55 151 ; San Fernando....... 244|Springville .......... 138|\Tracy,C.P ......... 208| Wellsville’ ........258 138 San Gabriel......... 250)Spanish Fork........ 133 Transier Grounds . 33/Weissport..... ....: 81 San Juan, N......... 190)St. Mary’s..... Reyne: 99/Trespinos ........... . 8B1\ Weston... .2...0.- 138 San Juan, §8.......... 231\/St. Helena........ .. 221/Trinidad ............ 86) WeStOn .02.-) 6, oe65 6 40 San Quintin......... 225)Stevenson........... 47\Tryon Mills.......... 226\West Jordan.,....... 127 San Rafael .... ssc. 225|Steamboat Springs.. 172/Tulasco ............. 152|White Plains........ 169 San JOSC:...225.55 02% QO Storms: ......-. 00005 (88) Tulare .. .......... S38iWheatland.........5. 194 San Mateo... 52.5. ... 228|Stockton, Cal........ RUG UMS: osc ces eee ese 146/Whitney .....-.00-55 193 San Diero ..c.. 235.5 248|Stockton, Utah... .. 135) Uintah ...... yer eons 120i Widefield 2.285... 5 < 83 San Juan Capistrano 249|Stone House......... 164; Yuma City.......... 254|Winnemucca........ 164 San Bernardino....,. 252! Girone 8 Canyon.... 182 Yuba Stathon gs 194)Wilmington......... 247 San Gorgonio........ Qa Spadra ... 00. 2.226 Zoli tuba City .-.... 2.25. 195) Windsor, ....00.5..8 222 Salida: ies. ccios ac. 235|Summit, U.P ....... 102/You Bat. hens oa05 ae Winship <..0..s.0ee 117 Salt Wells. ....2....; 105|Summit, C. P.. . 182) Youtsville .. over BOLI UAT 2.52. ewe 136 Salings oo. once soe ve 939/Summit Veta Pass... 88|York ............-... 133) Willards.... 5.2. ..-ue 156 BANG oo oc ccc ca coe 128|Summit, U. N....... 138|Valaparaso .......... AD] WANCOX. .. 5 oocceeeee 98 Salvia. 02.2.2... soon) ATAISUMNST He es. os 2381 Valley Ford ......... 126); Williams... 23... 200 Sargents...... Sirah 231/Summit, H. & P..... {58 Valley....,-.-..2..-. 40|Willow Island....... 48 Santaquin .......... 133)Summit Siding...... 38} Vallejo ..............3 202/Wood's Crossing . te eS Sand Creek.......... 242)Summit, Col ........ %6) Verdi .... .....-2... L7Y Woodlands ...5..0 2% 200 SOCOs. os eek ioe 148) Sumol.. ss .c.sssesw oes QLO| VANE. 625 ce soc e se cule 197|Wood River......... 46 SOMA syeseye se 197 Swingle.... - »... 20 Virginia Dale... .... O2'Wyoming,........0-+ 97 THE ADV ACE. (CHICAGO,—Established 1 867.) A NATIONAL WEEKLY JOURNAL, Devoted to Literature, the Esthetic and Useful Arts, and a candid presentation of Social and Religious subjects—pre-eminent as a Wide-Awake Progressive Christian Newspaper, Acknowledged to be the leading religious newspaper of the Interior and West, and ranking with the foremost in that department throughout our country. Leo ADV ANCE has an extensive circulation, well established, and including every State and Territory in the United States, as also many foreign countries. Its reading columns command the best talent among eminent writers, and its advertising space the patronage of all sections. From the same office are issued the “ [Ilnstrated Bible Studies” and “Advance Lesson Leaves,” monthly periodicals, containing notes on the International Lessons, believed to be un- surpassed in quality and cheapness as Sunday School helps for older scholars, Bible classes and teachers. For further information regarding THe ADvaNcz, “ Bible Studies,” etc., or for sample copies of same, address the publishers, C. H. HOWARD, C.H. HOWARD & CO., wae ditor-in- Chief. ARTHUR. A. DAY. . CHICAGO, ILL. Business Manager. NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ——AND— PACIFIC. (GASsT f.UIDE. seat PAGES. PRICE: | Wall Cloth Binding, - - = += + + Sie Te ew ee ef B00 Mlexible Binding, - 9 = = =) 5 ee ee eel 7: 75 Seut postpaid on receipt of the price. Address, The Overland Publishing Company, CHICAGO, ILL. A NEW AND IMPORTANT INVENTION IN HYDRAULIC POWER, TUERK’S HYDRAULIC MOTOR, For Running All Kinds of Light and Heavy Machinery BY WATER POWER. for Economy of Water, etc. 1876, and two Diplomas of Merit World's Exhibition at Philadelphia, (Secured by U. 8S. and Foreign Patents.) Patented August 25, 1874 and December 11, 1877.) Pat. Aug. 25,1874. Pat. Dec. 11, 1877. VIEW OF 8 INCH MOTOR. (From 4% to 2 horse power.) Awarded two Centennial Medals at the Pat. Aug. 25,1874. Pat. Dec. 11, 1877. VIEW OF 12 INCH MOTOR, WITH EXTENSION SHAFT. (From 3 to 6 Horse Power, according to pressure.) DS = tl ee nN INSIDE VIEW of small Motors with regu- lating valve attached (4% and 4 inch wheels.) Will run anything from a Jeweler’s Lathe or a Sewing Machine to a Stamp Mill, The. most efficient and economical power for mining operations known. Complete information sent on application. Chicago, Ill. Jan. 10, 1878. Messrs. Tuerk Bros. & Johnston: The eight inch Motor placed in my window at 49 Clark street, op- posite the Sherman House, runs my large Coffee Mill to perfection. I am entirely satisfied with it and can highly recommend it. Yours truly, A. H. BLAcKALL. TUERK BROS. & J OHNSTON, Manufacturers and Dealers, Chicago, Il. THESE WORLD-RENOWED | PULLMAN HOTEL DINING CARS ARE NOW RUNNING BETWEEN Council Bluffs and Chicago, On the OMAHA AND CALIFORNIA TRAINS of the CHICAGO @ NORTHWESTERN RAILWAY, i] = SSS gy e-and will take no other. All Ticket agents can sell you Through Tickets and Check usual Baggage Free by this line. California Express Trains of the CHICAGO AND NORTHWESTERN RAILWAY. third Saturday) and reach Chicago the next afternoon. =—uUllman Extotel Care Examine your Tickets, and refuse to buy if they do not read over this Road. If you wish the Best Traveling Accommodations, you will buy your Tickets by this Route. Are now running regularly between COUNCIL BLUFFS and CHICAGO on the 3 shed l Interior of Pullman Motel Car. The Chicago & North-Western Railway is the only road that runs Pullman’ or any other form of Hotel, Dining or Restaurant Car OUGH between Chicago and the Missouri River. BRIA ITN BAIN D! No other Road runs Puriuman Horen Cars, Putuman Dinine Cars, or any other form of Hotel, Dining or Restaurant cars THROUGH between the MISSOURI RIVER and CHICAGO. On no other Road can you get all the meals you require between OMAHA and CHICAGO without leaving the car you startin. This is the only line that has THROUGH Eating Cars of any sort. THROUGH TICKETS via this Route to all Hastern Points, can be procured at the Central Pacific Railroad Ticket Office, foot of Market Street, and at 2 NEW MONTGOMERY STREET, SAN FRANCISCO, oes at all Coupon Ticket Offices of Central Pacifie and Union Pacific Railroad. H. P. STANWOOD General Agent for California, NO. 2 NEW MONTGOMERY STREET, SAN FRANCISCO, in Palace Hotel. Insist upon Ticket Agents selling you Tickets via this Roa East-bound, they leaye Council Blufis at 5:30 p. um. daily, except Saturday,(and on every en ta ia RR a Se eee ‘ rata ee Bag 2S OE NDI teal RE GP ONE IEEE HN ene A SS Chae bs ¥ ¥ ¥ + e $ sibs Cece td a : ees SAR Saha ee ACR ENEAA SOR Scene ea SUS SRS = SAE RRS : SSeS > x - Se SRS Saks SSS Sas Se Re Re SSR eC SS ‘ PRG heere as =~ ti gt s SEES AA aenea