Section B · Page 4
The University Daily Kansan
Wednesday, June 23, 1999
Cooking
Barbecue success is in secret sauce KU archivist says
By Lisa John
Kansan managing editor
Even though Ned Kehde said he outgrew his craving for barbecue some years back and has now switched to Oriental cooking, he still could be described as one of the best barbecuers around. Kehde fits the description quite perfectly.
"I grew up in a barbecue family." he said.
His parents opened Kehde's Barbecue near Sedalia, Mo., in the early 1950s, said Kehde, who is an archivist at Spencer Research Library. Now, his brother and nephew run the restaurant and, as Kehde's parents before them, still catch the influx of tourists who stop for a taste of genuine Ozark barbe-
When Kehde talks barbecue, it's likely that the name of Grady Nash might be mentioned. When Kehde was growing up, Grady Nash ran a barbecue restaurant at Gravois Mills, Mo.
Kehde: shares barbecue tips but not secrets.
"He was an
oid ciagrette-smoking, beerdrinking, thin guy who drove a Cadillac and was quite a character," Kehde said.
Though Nash died many years ago, the recipe for barbecue sauce that he shared with the Kehde family survives.
The sauce contains only four ingredients, Kehde said.
"It has a lot of sugar and a lot of vinegar and tomato," he said.
Kehde would not reveal the type of tomato used, and it was mums the word about the fourth ingredient.
"It's a family secret," was all he said.
Although the sauce is a secret, the technique is not.
"First of all, you need pork steaks," Kehde said. "It's the cheapest meat you can buy. This is student-affordable meat."
Here's the formula:
Start a fire in a large Weber kettle grill using 35 charcoal briquettes in a coffee can that is vented around the bottom with paper crunched up in the bottom of the can. Kehhe said the barbecue folklore advised against using lighter fluid because it might change the flavor of the meat.
"I don't know if it's nonsense or not, but we always abided with the folklore." he said.
Next, Kehde said to put the burned down coals on one side of the cooker, and eight, hand-sized chunks of hickory that have soaked overnight in water on the other side.
Then, put about five pork steaks on the grill, as far away from the fire as possible. The vents in the lid and in the bottom of the grill should be opened enough so that the fire is neither too cool nor too hot.
After three hours of cooking over low heat, the pork steaks will be ready for the final step.
"I always lather my meat up at the last," Kehde说. "I heat a big bowl of the sauce to the point where it's almost boiling, dip the steaks in the sauce, let it drip off, and then put them back on the grill for 10 minutes."
This final step, Kehde said, gives the meat a sugary-sweet flavor.
Kehde said that the ideal accompaniments to the pork steaks would be German potato salad, made with garden-fresh new potatoes, home grown, of course, and coleslaw.
Overall, Kehde said that learning to be a good barbecue was like many things in life — it just took practice. As he leaned back in his office chair on the top floor of Spencer Research Library, Kehde seemed less like a cook and more like a worldly philosopher when he said, "Winston Churchill said in one of the greatest quotes ever, 'Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next.'"
— Edited by Kimberly Erb
Bummed, bored or got a bad craving? What cuisine do you turn to for consolation?
"Ramen noodles. But I like to make my own sauce with olive oil and soy sauce."
Kevin Greenwood,
Cincinnati, graduate student
"Fried catfish. Seasoned and crunchy. From Willie C's Cafe."
"Raw oysters with sea salt. From South Carolina."
"Mashed potatoes mixed with American cheese. Or instant mashed potatoes."
Peter Ukpkopuk,
associate professor
in African-American
studies
Kathy Gunter, circu-
desk supervisor at Watson
Library
Busy dad keeps things cooking
By Lisa John
Kansan managing editor
When Mark Reiske isn't busy helping keep track of construction projects on campus at Design and Construction Management, chances are he's at home in the kitchen preparing meals for his family.
By necessity, he's learned to cook in a hurry.
"With the kids' busy schedules being so spread out, I try to cook one- or two-pot dinners. I get off work at five and sometimes there's only an hour to get everything done." Reiske said.
Ever since he and his wife, Susan, married 13 years ago, Reiske has been the cook.
"My wife doesn't cook, and she never has liked to cook," he said. Put obviously, he does.
"She's Italian, and Italian food is all that they over cooked," he said.
Reiske said his mother taught him how to cook when he was growing up in Kirksville, Mo.
course), lasagna, polenta and fish dishes were common fare in the home. Desserts were usually fruit and/or cheese.
Today, Reiske said his cooking
Foods like ravioli (homemade, of
Today, Reiske has veered from high-fat foods to a lower-fat vegetarian fare.
He said that even though he now prefers to cook Mexican and Italian recipes that have a vegetable theme, he sometimes reverts to good old American food.
Reiske: cooks one ore two pot meals for family.
"My wife is from a farm-type of atmosphere, so sometimes I cook meat and potatoes for her," he said.
But he tries not to do that too often.
Reiske pointed to a picture in his office. The picture showed a man
who appeared to be very heavy.
"That's me two years ago," he said. "Before U20 lost 200 pounds."
Reiske said he lost the weight simply by cutting down on fat grams. He now strives to consume only 15 grams of fat a day.
"I still eat a lot of volume of food, but not much in fat grams," he said.
Reiske frequently cooks on the grill, and said he likes to use the following recipe as a marinade for chicken and vegetables. It's especially good on eggplant, he said.
Chicken and vegetable marinade Ingredients:
Chicken and vegetable marinade
Ingredients:
1 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons sesame oil
4 green onions chopped fine
1 clove garlic, minced
1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper
1/4 cup orange juice
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Directions:
Mix ingredients together and marinate meat or vegetables for one hour
Mix ingredients together and marinate meat or vegetables for one hour
—Edited by Derek Prater
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