University Daily Kansan
Monday, May 6, 1974
3
reviews
Paperbacks
Mexican Food
"THE OVERLORD'S" (Crest, $1.25) by William Woolfole is more political-type stuff. The plane of the governor of California crashes on an emergency trip to see the President (not Reagan and Nixon, we assume). A million dollars in cash is in the governor's home. And an ax FBI file evidence of a plan to seize the government.
"TROTSKY IN EXILE" by Peter Weiss (Pocket, $1.50) is a play by the man who did the controversial drama usually known as "Marat-Sade." The play depicts the leaders of Soviet communism, the purges, banishment to Serbia, the Moscow trials.
"THE WORLD'S OF CHIPPY PATTERSON" (Pocket, $1.25) by Arthur H. Lewis is the story of a successful trial lawyer, friend of pimps, handlers, prostitutes, lover of beautiful women, scion of a blue blooded family in Philadelphia, fighter in Skid Row, in Chinatown, on the Gold Coast of San Francisco.
"STRANGE GAMES" (Pocket, $1.25) by Heller Toren is a novel about Maria Scaripe, Mediterranean beauty, greatly admired and lusted for, wife of a nobleman and bedonist searching for exotic and sensuous thrills.
"CALICO PALACE" (Pocket, $1.25) by Gwen Bristow, set in San Francisco, is a novel about the days of the Gold Rush by a writer who has written several skillfully told, escapist tales of early American history.
"A WILD JUSTICE" (Pocket, $1.25) by Francis Clifford is a driller with the themes of survival and revenge. It is a novel about Irish revolutionaries who are caught up in a suspenseful situation while trapped in the ruins of a hotel.
Local Restaurants Offer Many Possibilities
By ALISON GWINN
Kansan Reviewer
Mexican food has been traditionally misunderstood. When one hears the word "Mexican" in connection with gastroenter, he conjures up a picture of the typical dorm taco; a cold ground beef and ground beef and garnished with a cold gelatin veldvle and shredded lettuce.
Even most typical Mexican restaurants forsale true homestyle recipes and mass-produce inexpensive California-style Mexican dishes. But truly old-style Mexican dishes aren't often found on the menu. Lawrence restaurants and its effects are sure to last an eater long into the night.
An authentic Mexican restaurant, guaranteed to have good food, can be spotted by a picture of Jesus or a cross hanging somewhere in the vicinity of the kitchen. Another sure sign is when the restaurant serves only one sauce—the chileo sauce. The temperature is regulated by the amount that the eter applies to his dishes.
Perhaps the smallest authentic Mexican restaurant in Lawerence is the Casa de Taco, on 11th and Massachusetts streets. The room is large, the kitchen and the restaurant is hardy wider than its front door, but the food is excellent. The hot sauce is exceptionally hot, and one receives a very generous order of warm chips before eating. Another small size, and one may order either a complete dinner or a la carte. The waitresses are very nice, and generally the atmosphere is comfortable and friendly, with a frequently available corner and a flow of regular customers.
Two other Mexican restaurants somewhat on the order of Casa de Taco can be found within a small block of each other, on 5th and Louluct streets across the river
and about 3 blocks east. El Matador Cafe is probably the best Mexican place in town. The exterior is painted with scenes of the sunrise and dusk, a shimmering stark and large, without much decoration.
It is 15 years old and is run by one family, who can be watched preparing the food in the kitchen. The menu lists no food a la Ruthie, but all the food is listed as a special of some sort or another, most of the specials being named after some customer who has, through the years, frequented the place, and which are served in dishes. The specials range in price from $1.25 to about $5, but generally they are between $2.50 and $2.80. The food at this place is more expensive than at other restaurant in town, but it is far superior.
The hot sauce is superb, and the chips are the best around. Unlike most places, the beans are whole beans, rather than the traditional, mushy refried beans. Almost any combination of dishes is offered, and the selection is immense. And, contrary to what many people "spare gooood," the service is as fast as could possibly be expected.
One really gets the feeling of home-cooked Mexican food in this place, as the daughter of the family often brings out the tortillas and rice, and her father can finish preparing each one.
La tropicana is within a few steps of the El Matador, and appears from the outside to be of much the same type. But the food is much fresher than the cheaper, one still expects to receive homemade Mexican food, and the food at this place, though good, isn't much better than the cheaper. The best option is the place. The best thing that La Tropicana has to offer is a heavily spiced hot sauce and
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line, and they offer chips and a Mexican pastry free with every meal. The atmospheric, contrasty to the feeling in the restaurant is comparable to that in an average pizza place.
homemade chips free with every meal.
The Aztec Inn at 807 Vermont St. serves excellent Mexican food in an atmosphere much different from the three previously mentioned restaurants. This place is much more heavily decorated, and the tables are generally secluded into dark rooms by themselves. This creates a much less honey and much more romantic atmosphere; the plates are lighter than the dishes, and Mexicanized pop music is piped in continuously. The menu in this restaurant is much more extensive than in most others, because it serves both Mexican and American food in addition to a children's menu. One can order either a la carte or a full meal, and the prices are extremely reasonable, considering the quality of the food and the services in this place are huge, and everything is garnished with a lot of good cheese—even the beans and the burritos are covered with melted cheese.
The first order of chips is free, and the restaurant offers three kinds of dip, unlike
all of the other places. The sanchos, large soft tortillas rolled up with ground beef, lettuce and tomato, and the burritos, soft tortillas filled with beans, are enormous. The enchiladas, tortillas filled with meat or cheese and covered with sauce, are the best anywhere. This place is very excellent, although it covers the honey style of the other three places.
For those who shun the real thing, Lawrence offers a wide range of franchised, California-style Mexican restaurants, whose food is good, if not as authentic as the privately-owned places. The prices are much cheaper, but the dishes are heavily supplemented with lettuce and beans. Often two, or even three degrees hot sauces are offered, or, in the case of chicken, only a few spiced meat are offered. Don Chilito's serve exceptionally generous quantities, most notably the Texas burrito, which is a meal in itself and is priced in the $1 range. The service is very quick, because it is handled by a cafeteria
Mexican food isn't known to be loved by all, but many aren't fully acquainted with its range of possibilities. It can be spicy or mild, doughy or crisp, filling or light. But it is bound to give its eater a warm bubbly feeling far into the night.
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