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University Daily Kansan
Wednesday, Oct. 23, 1963
Costume Collection Is Catalogued
By Linda Ellis
The costume shop in the University Theatre is only six years old, but already it is stacked full of history.
The history is in the thousands of costumes stored in rows of metal cabinets on the bottom level of the building.
Since 1957, when the costume shop was transferred from the old Fraser theatre to the then new Murphy hall, the amount and variety of costumes has multiplied many times.
CHEZ J. HAEHIL, assistant professor of speech and drama, said the costumes are catalogued by historical period. The costumes are stored in tall metal cabinets with labels such as "Men's Coats Renaissance," "Women's Lingerie—1920's."
Along with the clothes, there are boxes of accessories to go with the costumes. Gloves, scarves, belts, shoes, hats, artificial flowers, petticoats, and uniforms are filled in the shop according to time and usage.
Some authentic pieces of clothing, shoes and uniforms have been donated to the shop by people who
live in Lawrence. These pieces are not used for actual performances but are used as examples for studying the history of costume in classes.
Mrs. Ida Conroy, who is employed in the costume shop said, "Most of the costumes we have that are authentic are from the 1890's period and are too small for the smallest student we have here. The dresses and the shoes are so tiny that we simply cannot use them."
AN ORIGINAL COSTUME donated by a retired professor is a kimona that was used as a pattern for the rest of the kimonos to be worn in the coming production of "Madame Butterfly."
As in other productions, the kimono was a guide pattern for the rest of the show. It was measured and copied in many other fabrics for the show.
For "Madame Butterfly," the staff and costume students have created a whole new period of costumes to be added to the present collection. The closest one available is in the Chinese period. "Madame Butterfly" is Japanese.
This year's knowing look for Juniors . . . the jumper with figure skimming lines. Ours paired with an importantly sleeved blouse . . . rolled collar flip ties in back. All wool double knit with Dacron® textured crepe blouse.
Shop Thursday evening 'til 8:30
The costumes must be designed for easy, quick changes. Therefore, the head costumer, director and producer must approve all costumes. The head costume designer must study the play, know all changes of costume and the time allowed for changes before he is able to design the costumes.
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THE SHOP IS responsible for all accessories and personal properties to be used by actors. It must create the costumes and store them.
For the production, they have made 30 kimonos, 2 Navy lieutenant uniforms and a dress characteristic of the 1900 period. In addition, the shop is redressing 25 wigs in Japanese fashion for the geisha girls to wear in the show.
All clothes are made so that they will last to be used in other shows. The costumes in "Madame Butterfly" will reflect the happy or tragic moods in the play by the use of color. In the gay scenes, the cos-
803 Mass.
THE COSTUMES to be used in "Madame Butterfly" were started before the production of "Emperor Jones" about October 7.
tunes will be constructed of rich fabrics in bright colors. In the sad parts, the kimonos will be in more sombre colors.
Usually the staff and student assistants make everything for a play, but when reproducing an article is impossible, it must be rented from a rental service in San Francisco, Denver, New York City, Chicago or Kansas City.
The costumes being made for the next show will be stored afterwards to be included in another page of the costume-shop history.
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JOCKEY LIONEL LEFEBVRE IS a former soldier who served with the UN forces in Korea. Following his discharge, he became an exercise boy for the E. P. Taylor stable in his native Canada and later migrated to the United States.
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