106
Kansas University Weekly.
LITERARY.
Symposium on Dress Reform.
Inasmuch as the unseasonable weather of the past winter, and the consequent distressing condition of all avenues of approach to the University, have brought to the attention of professors and students the inadequate equipment of the University girl for battle with foes she must meet often on Mount Oread-Kansas rain and mud—the editor of this department has deemed that a discussion of this subject would not be without interest and profit, and presents the following views to readers of the WEEKLY:
The various attempts toward dress reform that have been made in the past from time to time, have all proven ineffectual. The reason usually alleged has been, that the attempt was premature, that women were not ready for the reform. It is evident, however, that in each case women were deterred from these reforms, by the assumption of them by women who passed under the name of cranks, who really desired to be conspicious—that being one of the means for accomplishing this object. The few who persevered in the reform for a laudable purpose, were obliged to bear the same ignominy as the unworthy.
Today, with the increase of education, women are generally more self-asserting. There is more concerted action among them--more courage in working together for a cause. In several of our western colleges, clubs are being formed for the encouragement of the habitual use of some reform dress.
It is said by more recent reformers, that those of the fifties and seventies made no effort to make the dress beautiful, or to concede anything to the taste created by fashion. But the latter had contended that after the adoption of the reform suit, there would naturally follow a combination of artistic beauty with convenience.
Since a uniform costume for all, seems at present impractical, those who have had this matter under consideration for the last few
years, have recommended a varied costume adapted to the time, occupation and individual. Hence it is left in large measure to each one to wear the dress best suited to her needs.
The last movement for a rational dress, has been led by Lady Harberton in England, and in America, by the Dress Committee of the Inter-National Council of Women. That committee, being appointed in 1891 to make a report as to an every day dress suitable for business, house work, or exercise, then recommended three dresses, which it was thought might be so modified as to be adapted to any wearer. These dresses were: the Syrian suit, especially recommended by the English dress reformers; the gymnasium suit, used in exercises in physical culture; and the American costume, which is the Mrs. Jenness-Miller rainy day dress.
The gymnasium suit is very well adapted to its purpose. The Jenness-Miller dress is both lighter and prettier than the Syrian suit, and could easily be adapted to the needs of each individual by varying the length of the skirt according to the wearer—from midway between the ankle and knee, to the top of the shoe. Inasmuch as, in seeking a reform, it is wise to carry the innovation far enough to cover the essential need of the reform, and yet not so far as to be at all liable to create a reaction, it would be well to so modify this dress as to lessen the weight, by decreasing the fullness in the back, using light materials, and avoiding heavy facings, rather than by shortening too greatly the length of the skirt.
If it be possible to find a correct dress that shall overcome the annoyance accompanying the prevailing costume, and at the same time depart as little as possible from our customary dress, it will be far more likely to be adopted by all classes of women. If a dress can be worn which shall be light, and at the same time hang clear from all soil of the street, the especial annoyances will be overcome. A disposition to suppress extreme shortness of