University Daily Kansan, February 23, 1983 Jeans trend turning toward basic styles BY YASHWANT BHAGWANJI Staff Reporter Designer jeans are more popular with women, but Levis is still No.1 with men, said managers of several local retail shops this week. Designer and basic jeans sell at about the same rate, but "the trend is toward more basic styles," said Kate Nolan, Fashion World, 723 Massachusetts St. "Several years ago wearing a so-called 'statue' jean was important; women today are looking for a good fit at a reasonable price," he said. Baggy, pleated, pin-striped and stone-washed jeans are popular among women right now, said managers Kail Kayloun of Fads & Fashions, 117 Massachusetts St., and Teresa McDernott of Maurice's, 708 Massachusetts St. BUT PEOPLE ARE turning back to western styles, McDermott said. A few years ago, a person with good taste wore designer jeans, she said, but that is changing. Sales of D.I.D. Lee jeans have slowed before, but were increased significantly. Steiller, general manager of King of Jeans, 740 Massachusetts St., said bell-bottomed jeans and jeans with designs do not reflect the life of people he said, people trusted. Levis because they were durable and fit better. Russ Livingston, manager of Litwin's, 813 Massachusetts St., said dark blue prewashed jeans and black denims were becoming popular. Killough said she also thought black jeans would become popular. Jeans are popular in Malaysia, too, said Ivan Ignatius, Malaysia freshman. "Levis especially are tough and long-lasting. I like the wide choices of sizes and styles jeans offer," he said. They are very popular in neigh boring countries such as Singapore, Thailand and Indonesia, too, Ignatius said. FANNY STREBL, VENEZUELA sophomore, said, "Jeans are popular in my country, but people do not wear them_to_work_or_anything because they are expensive." She said that she liked designer jeans but that they were too expensive for her. "Everyone wears Lewis — that is why I like designer jeans — they fit better and make me look different." The University student from Panama. David Landkamer, food service worker, said. "Designer jeans cost too much and don't last too long. That is why we have them comfortable and really look good." Levis jeans are popular all over the world because they are a good quality brand. Miller said Jeans made in New York twice as expensive as Levi, he said. Designer jeans hit road, tailor-made for truckers By United Press International RICHMOND, Va. — The latest wrinkle in blue jeans — "Long Hall" designer jeans for truck drivers — are being sold at 150 trucks around a "It's the epitome of the anti-status jean," said Marshall Bank, vice president of the Jobilib Co., in a news release from his Chase City, Va. office. Bank said the jeans had drawn "a phenomenal response." The jeans take into account the problems of the professional truck driver. They need to be cut from an oversized pattern because most truckers are big men. Blank said. But they should stay comfortable on long drives. And there are other touches. They have heavy pocket limbings in the front, and they are made in America. "TRUCKERS ARE VERY touchy about made-in-America." Bank said. noticed was that they carry truckers wallets, those large oversized walleys. "Bank said. "They don't have enough room in the back pockets of other jeans for them, so we enlarged the back pocket." Then came the question of marketing "The trucker is the last of the American cowboy," he said. "A different breed of character. We went to his ego, called it 'Long Haul' and gave it a western appearance, put a stagecoach on the label." zines showing a truck driver and his rig surrounded by women. The caption says the trucker is finally "setting the attention he deserves." BANK SAID The JONBIL Co. made jeans for several companies and employed about 450 people. It can produce 25 million pairs of jeans each year. Ads were placed in trucker maga He said the jeans cost less than $20. Because of the early success, Bank said, the company is branching out into a complete "Long Hau" line with hats, T-shirts, belt buckles and even trucker's wallets. By JOHN HOOGESTEGER Staff Reporter Clothing retailers in Lawrence can see the effects of the recession in their customers' behavior, but most merchants say business is steady. In a phone survey of 23 retail clothing stores only four reported that business was down over the past year. The sales were as good as or better than last year. Several store owners said that they were feeling the recession somewhat, but that it was not having a serious effect on their businesses. "The recession has hurt us some, but we gave em what they wanted and that kept business going," said Steve Miller. "We've done a lot of promoting and we've done a lot of promoting and." we've had to sell some items for less to keep the volume up. The profit margin is down some, but overall we're doing well." LISA PREWITT OF Carousel, 711 W. 23rd St., said that the recession was not hurting business, but that she had noticed its effects because more people were buying sale items. Craig Randle of the Britch's Corner, 843 Massachusetts St., said business was good overall, despite some down periods. "Christmas was just as good as last year, but not better," he said. "We're selling more suits right now, but overall volume is down." "People are going for smaller items and are pickier about what they buy. If they have something in mind, it has to be just right, not just close." Bob Zook of Campbell's Clothing, 841 Massachusetts St. , said that the main effect of the recession was that it kept companies steady, preventing a great increase. "THE RECESSION IS affecting us all about the same," said Jim Schubert of the Jay Shope. $35 Massachusetts taxation drivesive and cautious about what they buy. "Inflation has been worse in Kansas City, and price cutting there reflects some on business here." Larry Wolfe, merchandising manager for J. C. Penney Co. Inc., 830 Massachusetts SL, said that 1982 was a great year for what he anticipated a good year in 1983. But Pet Whitehight of Whitney's Town Shop, 809 Massachusetts St., said, "I've had a lot of customers." certainly feeling the effect of the recession. We're being very conservative in terms of quantity of mercury and carbon dioxide, but we've had a better turnover of goods." Several of the store owners and workers said that Lawrence received some competition from Kansas City, Mo. but that most Lawrence shoppers had not been able to come to Lawrence from Topeka to shop, he said, than the reverse. "WOMEN LIKE TO go to Kansas City because it's a day out," said Ellie Miller of Janel's, 845 Massachusetts St. "Business is down. We're seeing women buying pieces to augment what our own instead of buying entire sets." Bog Gyre of Little Women-Little Men, 823 Massachusetts St., said business had been up and down, but right now it was up. "We've been feeling the effects of the recession," he said. "People have been buffaled into believing things are much worse than they are. But kids keep growing, so our business stays fairly steady." KU students get a kick from cowboy boot trend By DAVID SWAFFORD Staff Reporter The growing popularity of cowboy boots on campus may reflect a tendency toward individualism among students. The professor of sociology said this week. William Arnold, associate professor of sociology, said fashion changes on campus were usually the direct result of students' changing philosophies. For example, he said, students began wearing blue jeans 15 years ago to symbolize a movement in favor of the white collar and against the white collar dress. Arnold said he had noticed the growing popularity of cowboy boots 'ITS HARD TO know exactly why the trend started, but it could have been because there was a new interest in art and design.' The idea might have been relating to the idea of rugged individualism — the cowboy off alone fighting in the hills. "But now, most students are wearing them because they are noon." Trends in fashion are usually started by an individual or a group of people trying to be different from everyone else. Arnold said. But, he said, if enough people catch on to the idea, it becomes a trend because everyone else wants to keep up with the latest fashion. A trend usually dies because of a complete reversal of what started it, Arnold said. The leaders who started the trend break away to wear something different, and in time, everyone else follows, he said. ACCORDING TO TM Arensburg, a Lawrence店 Merchant, boots have always been popular in the winter because of their comfortable especially strong in the last two years. "Cowboy boots have been popular since the whole urban cowboy idea started. Now; people just like wearing them with their jeans," he said. KU fashion degrees limited, but some majors available By KEITH CUTLER Staff Reporter A student at the University of Kansas who wants to enter the field of fashion may find that the choices are limited. Although job openings exist, the University doesn't offer much in fashion-related courses. The art department in the School of Fine Arts does not offer classes in fashion design, but does offer fashion illustration. "Fashion illustration has nothing to do with fashion to do with fashion merchandising or fashion designing, it is strictly a type of illustration involving the pictures in newspaper advertisements." Philip Henderson, retired fashion illustration professor at KU, said this week. "It IS A VERY lucrative field, but there are jobs if you are good," he said. He said the pay varied depending on where the work was. "In New York, the pay is marvelous, but it costs more to live there. In Kansas City, the pay is not much, but the cost of living is less, he said. The School of Business offers some courses in marketing, the business end of fashion, but no major. Roberto Friedmann, doctoral student and assistant instructor of marketing, said he did not think the lack of a marketing or fashion merchandising major at KU hindered his students. "Any fashion merchandising background that the student doesn't have they will gain in the store," Friedmann said. He said his former students who were hired into retail positions were doing fine. "THE PAY IN retail may be a little lower than accounting to begin with, but the advancement is faster," he said. "It is just as tough as any other position. There may be a little extra glamour in being a buyer for Macy's or Saks Fifth Avenue, but it is easy to get there." Michael Haughton, senior vice president at Macy's department stores in Kansas, said, "We will hire any major to fashion merchandising and train them through our training program. We prefer business majors, but will hire liberal arts and sciences majors also." "We would prefer to have a marketing major, but anyone that is bright and intelligent can get hired. "They will start as assist buyers and then move up to be buyers. It make take three to four years, but there is advancement. Fashion boutiques offer KU students wardrobe choices, makeup products By KATIE MILLER Staff Reporter Several Lawrence businesses offer consultations and products to build a wardrobe, put on a pretty face, and, according to their owners, change your life. Rainboutique, 2619 W. Sixth St., offers color consultation to match the best clothing and makeup colors with each person. The service was made popular by Carole Jackson's book, "Color Me Beautiful." Sylvia Haas, owner of Rainboutique, said, "I teach people what colors they look best in so that they won't be influenced by fashion. "I do a lot of consulting with people in sales and with people trying to get a job. It's just as important as preparing a resume or portfolio. On the first impression, the thing they'll remember most is what color you wore." COLOR CONSULTANTS compare skin tone, hair and eye color and assign the person to one of four general categories. The person, Haas said, should wear the colors and shades from a particular category throughout the year. Haas said that all colors had gray, clear, yellow, blue, or rose undertones. These different shades affect people differently. "For example, orange on a blond with fair eyes and skin makes the skin look ruddy," she said. "Sometimes, a color will make the skin look sallow. "Color also affects the behavior of people." She said some clients had received jobs, made successful business deals or strengthened a marriage after they wearing the colors in their category. Haas' services cost between $25 and $50. They include a color analysis, skin care and makeup, and a wardrobe class. Her clients, men and women ranging in age from 13 to 81, usually come in groups and include students, salesmen, coaches and their wives and legislator's wives, she said. OTHER LAWRENCE businesses offered different techniques for make- Doris Quackenbush, buyer and consultant for Clinique at Weaver's Department Store, 901 Massachusetts St., said. "I just can't see someone telling me I can wear only pink and white clothes to wear what looks good on them." "It's an allergy/tested, fragrance/free line," Quackenbush said. "They stress cleansing more than makeup." She determines the strengths and flaws of a client's skin by examining eye color, natural hair color, the skin's response to the sun, pore size, facial lines, olliness, tendency to break out, and skin color. Clinique conducts skin analyses and advises customers on proper skin care needs She then suggests the proper cleaning products to fit each skin type, and also helps clients choose makeup colors and teaches them to apply it. Tere McClenaghan, Merle Norman beauty adviser, said, "We don't charge for the service, but hope they'll leave with our products." An average customer leaves the store with $35 to $60 worth of products. KATHERINE BERKOWITZ, manager of Merle Norman, said most people did not come in because of the free makeover. "I think our best advertising is word-of-mouth. We have a high degree of customer loyalty." A makeover takes 30 to 45 minutes. "We ask them what colors of clothing they like most, what they do, and what color clothes they have," McCleman said. Merle Norman, 701 Massachusetts St. also make doves. "WE SEE A LOT of girls who've never worn makeup before, and after they learn how, they like themselves, they like how they look." "We don't apply the makeup, though." McClenaghan said. "We tell them and watch them do it. Then they go home and try it out." The beauty advisers then show customers how to apply makeup for an everyday look, a sporty look, a business or an evening look. "We tell them to match their makeup colors with their clothes." BRING IN ANY OLD PAIR OF JEANS (REGARDLESS OF CONDITION) OFF ANY JEANS OR PANTS IN THE STORE OFF ANY MEN'S LONG SLEEVE SHIRT OR SWEATER IN THE STORE For each trade-in toward the purchase of ONE PAIR OF JEANS AND ONE SHIRT - One trade-in per jeans and shirt — but no limit on number of trade-ins allowed. (In other words: you would save $24 if you purchase 3 pairs of jeans and 3 shirts with 3 trade-ins.) - All trade-ins are donated to charity. So gather up all those old faded, scroungy jeans you have no use for and make them count for new ones!*