University Daily Kansan, February 23, 1983
Hard-core New Wavers disdain imitators
By SUSAN STANLEY Staff Reporter
Let's get one thing straight right now — serious progressive music fans do not like "nunus."
"Nunus" are people who imitate the dress of progressive music fans, but who lack their dedication and sincerity, Darrell Laham, Wichita senior and drummer for the progressive band Other Geese, said this week.
"Nunus are just slumming," he said.
"The they are the ones who dress 'New Wave' for the night. You can tell a nunu because they never travel alone."
HE SAID there was a fraternity "Punk-Out" party last week at the Dynamo Ballroom, 737 New Hampshire Street. They were just too hard to be just sick. They were just posing."
There are about 200 New Wave-punk dressers on campus who are dedicated to the messages and philosophies of the music, he said.
This kind of dressing is more a way of thinking than a fad, he said. Progressive music lovers believe in the themes of social change in the songs, he said.
"I hesitate to place a label on the way we dress. It isn't really punk; that movement is virtually over, and New Wave is a catch-all term."
PUNK MUSIC is characterized by the violence of its themes and its desire
for social change. It began with the English punk rock of the mid-1970s.
"The music expresses the anger that they felt with their society," Laham said, "when you couldn't find a job, and when you were disillusioned and discouraged."
There are few "punkers" left at the University, he said, and those remaining refer to themselves as "hard cores."
"You can distinguish a hard core by the way they dress," he said. "There's a lot of leather and studded wristbands, boots and very short hair."
Susan Jones, Omaha, Neb., freshman, said comfort was the key to this kind of dress.
"I wear whatever is the most comfortable. It depends on my moods. Usually I wear miniskirt outfits, and I don't wear any underwear or core I wear black and white leather."
"If anything, New Wavers and punk rockers are coming out stronger."
JONES SAID she usually bought her clothes at thrift stores.
"The new Salvation Army thrift shop
is great. I just bought a leather jacket
sleeves, bright colors and combat boots.
Frank Mack, Overland Park sophomore, said he dressed "New Wave" when he went dancing in the school chapels there wear comfortable clothes, shirts without
Laham said the way to tell a true progressive music fan was by his hair.
"The newest thing is to have an asymmetrical haircut. They try to shave one side real close and let the other side remain long."
LAHAM ALSO said that he dressed to be comfortable and that progressive music fans did not wear expensive clothing.
Many shop at thrift stores in Lawrence and the Kansas City area for clothing.
"Most of us can't afford to buy all the designer coies," he said.
Last weekend, Laham said, he and his girlfriend found a red leather coat with artificial zebra fur on the collar and buttons.
Jones said, "A lot of times people think that you dress the way you do to attract attention. That isn't always true."
"We had to have it. We had never seen anything like it and it only cost
ONCE, SHE said, she saw a person with black spiked hair with white tips and black hair.
"When I first came here from Nebraska I dressed that way more. The weird looks didn't bother me as much. I've never felt very conservative campus," she said.
Laham said that for awhile his hair was cut in a Mohawk.
"I've stopped some conversations before," he said.
"New Wavers" are against conspicuous consumption — spending lots of money just because you have it, he said.
"our music is politically oriented," he said. "We try to make a statement with the way we dress. I have a friend who works at a school. You youth" on the back. That's just great.
We are just trying to make people realize there is more around than Ralph Lauren.
FRANCES ALBERTSON, of St. John's Thrift Shop, 1237 Vermont St., said many of her customers were students, only dishes and kitchenware as well.
Sydney Schroeder, psychiatrist at Watkins Memorial Hospital, said dressing in an unusual manner was nothing new.
"Rebellion is a necessary part of growing up," he said. "Sometimes youth in the past have done something like this out of a real sense of frustration, and sometimes they are just trying to shake up their elders.
"The key is to not assume what is going on in someone's head. You have to listen."
Designers say new hair styles to have short cut, exposed ear
By GRETCHEN DAY Staff Reporter
Staff Reporter
As spring rolls around, more and more ears will come out from hiding.
Several Lawrence hair stylists agreed this week that styles for both men and women would be shorter this year.
The cut expected to be popular among women this spring is called the bi-level in hairstylings circles. The hair is cut short and full on top to expose part of the ear, and left longer in the back.
"It's based on simplicity," said Mark Taylor, a stylist at Headmasters, 90 Vermont St. "The more you mess with it, the worse it looks."
THE BI-LEVEL cut can be suited to fit the occasion. A person can softly brush it back for a gentle, easy look, he wears it over to add fullness and height to the too.
"Wild is in for party styles." Taylor said. "It gives people a uniqueness."
Kim Eaton, a stylist at Command Performance, 1806 W. 23rd St., said the bi-level cut really was not new. She did it as "the big thing" this spring.
"It's the ease of taking care of hair in
front," she said, "yet still keeping the length.
Moreover, men's styles are following the same trends.
Rockie Browning, stylist at Gentleman's Quarters, 611 W. 9th St., said men were also wearing their hair and wore a style that left more of the ear exposed
BROWNING SAID waves and curls accompanying the shorter cuts for the upper body.
Taylor, stylist at headmasters, said many women were wearing styles that angled up over the ear and left the sideburns.
Although the most severe punk styles are fading out, they have had a big impact on music.
"In Europe it's popular to have streaks," he said. "They think they'll stand out more with a purple or a blonde streak."
Donna Hamilton, a stylist at Shear Dimensions, 1802 Massachusetts St., said, "You have to work with the type of hair a person has. You work with the type of hair, the shape of the face, the neck, the contour of the head.
"Hair is an illusion. Hair isn't always
that it appears to be. You create hair
by realizing it's not there."
Hems and hard times have no link
Staff Writer
By DARRELL PRESTON Staff Writer
Theories linking shorter skirt lengths to rising interest rates and unemployment fell apart during the nation's current bout with economic hard times, local clothes merchants said this week.
"In the past that has been a trend, but I don't think it is happening during this recession," said Lisa Prewitt, manager of Carousel, 711 W. 23rd St. "Although there are short skirts and dresses available for buying to please themselves. In these hard times there isn't that much that gives pleasure."
MANY MERCHANTS said they had heard adages describing the way clothing manufacturers saved cloth and making skirts short so that women could wear short skirts had not become the rage they were during the recession 10 years ago.
"Skirt lengths are just about
average for man or woman.
Kay Killoughe of Fads and
Nonetheless, many merchants said miniskirts were becoming more popular recently.
Fashions, 717 Massachusetts St. "I think women have become more independent about what they are wearing," said Danielle Schmidt, fashion be dictated by designers."
Randy Gordon, owner of Britches Corner, 943 Massachusetts St., said he first began selling shorter skirts last summer.
"It it's something new and fresh, but I don't know if you can call it a trend." Gordon said. "It isn't like the miniskirt days when everybody wore them. Some people might have one or two to wear occasionally."
GORDON SAID that during hard economic times people avoided extreme fashion trends which became a hallmark of the 1980s and bought enduring classic styles.
"People buy more conservatively when they are strapped for cash," he said. "Investment dressing becomes popular because people want something of high quality that is going to last."
Killough agreed people were spending most of their fashion budget on things that would not go out of reach. They could also seek inexpensive, faddish clothes.
"People might wear the fads, but they are going to look for the inexpensive copies of outrageous designer clothes. The conservative designer clothes." Killian said.
PREWITT SAID clothing prices forced people to buy classics because they wanted something that would last.
"Outrageous styles are something people wear to have fun, as a form of entertainment." Pweit said.
Current outrageous styles include skintight Marilyn Monroe jeans with zippers, purple and turquoise overdye jeans and miniskirts, she said.
"Skirt lengths go up and down all the time," she said, "and it will probably come in and go out like in the rain." Mr. Willis will probably always be there.
Prewitt said she could not predict how long the "mini miniskirt boom" would last.
Sweats no longer just for gym
By CHRISTY FISHER
Staff Reporter
Staff Reporter
Since Olivia Newton-John, Richard Simmons and Jane Fonda began getting physical, the American activewear industry has begun to flex its own muscles.
Whether or not one is athletic, looking that way is chic, and the key to this spring's activewear is comfort, color and style. say local retail clothing merchants.
The activewear industry's profits were about $4.5 billion last year, up from about $2.5 billion four years ago, according to Forbes magazine.
AND ARE merchants don't think
to the popularity of activewear will be a
passion.
Kay Killough, manager of Fads and Fashions, 717 Massachusetts St., said, "I think it's going to last; it's not faddish. People are tired of wearing jeans. Sales are good and I think it will stay."
Retailers said consumers were
The most popular item for spring for both men and women is the fleeced sweat suit in a spectrum of pastel colors.
Teresa McDermott, manager of Maurice's, 708 Massachusetts St., said, "People are buying exciting colors like bright, flashy red — not the basic gray sweats. I think them excited to exercise."
STUDENTS AXE buy drawing pants with a hooded pullover top, and older people are favoring the crewneck style.
checking the competition for the best price and buying the most versatile items.
Sheri Keller, merchandise manager for J.C. Penney Co., Inc.; 830 Massachusetts St., said, "I now have 60-year-old women buying sweets.
"I think they are a basic item.
"They're comfortable. I use them for painting, wallpapering, shopping. I don't consider them athletic."
The most popular items in activewear are windwinds made of nylon and polyester.
SECOND MOST popular among men and women are twill pants with side piping. These pull-on pants with elastic waistband, lining, and sleeves are especially popular with men.
"Windsuits are our best seller. We've been sold out since Christmas," he said.
Russ Livingston, manager of Litwins,
831 Massachusetts St. said, "I think it will last at least two or three years — especially in my drawstring pants."
And lestards are not just for dancing, now that women have adopted them as a fashion favorite. Versatile swimsuit/leotards in a variety of colors and styles can be fashioned in the dance, swim, exercise, casual and formalwear industries.
Polo shirts, blouson jackets, boatnecks, crewnacks, rugby shirts and plenkit sweaters are the most popular styles of tops.
John Lesniak, an employee of In Season Sporting Goods, 844 Massachusetts St., emphasized the popularity of this item.
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