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University Daily Kansan Thursday, Sent. 15, 1955.
IVY LEAGUE—Dean Kobler, salesman at a Lawrence men's store, shows a new hat to a customer buying an Ivy League wardrobe. The Ivy League style is the first radical fashion change in men's clothing since 1851, when double hooded suits went out of style.
since 1951 when double-breasted suits went out of style.
Ivy League Recalls Past
An old axiom, "Like father, like son," has carried over to men's fashions. Today's well-dressed college student wears a three button coat, tapered slacks and a Chesterfield topcoat. These "new" Ivy League styles strangely reflect the fashions worn in his father's college era.
NEW VOGUE BEGAN IN '51
According to a campus men's clothing store salesman, the Ivy League vogue is here to stay. Almost all of the suits and sport coats stocked by local stores are fashioned in the new style.
NEW VOGUE BEGAN IN '51 The new trend in men's fashion started about three years ago. At that time the charcoal grey flannel suit became popular. Following this charcoal brown and charcoal green became acceptable colors.
Right now, the new style is apparent in the entire wardrobe. First of all, the typical Ivy Leaguer wears plain toed, shell cordovans. For socks, cotton argyles are the rage. He wears a charcoal flannel or herringbone tweed suit. The suit has three buttons, the pants have no pleats, have a belt in the back and are tapered to 18 inches.
Even men's belts have gone Ivy League. They are usually a tartan plaid fabric. Dress shirts are either white or blue oxford cloth with an evelet or button-down collar. Red stripes are predominant in the Ivy League tie. The stripes are narrow and consist of several colors.
HATS AGAIN IN STYLE
Hats have returned to the college men's wardrobe. They are usual of a charcoal shade with high collar and short sleeves. To complete the typical Ivy League wardrobe the staunch advocates list a Chesterfield coat as a necessity. It is made of a soft finished
fabric and has a narrow, velvet collar.
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Unfortunately, the price of an Ivy League wardrobe is not as conservative as its fashion. Shoes should not cost more than $16.00, socks $12.55, suit $60.00, shirt $50.00, tie $2.50, hat $10.00 and top coat $60.00.
Today's men's fashions are certainly reminiscent of the roaring 20s. The only thing missing—the Raccoon coat.
About half of all the auto industry employees in the United States work in Michigan.
More than 500 students jammed the Student Union parking lot last night for the Independent Students Association-sponsored "Last Nighter" street dance.
ISA Dance Draws Crowd
In a climax to orientation week activities, the new and former students danced to the music of phonograph records. Mixer dances were planned by the ISA to acquaint the students some of whom were clad in Bermuda shorts.
New students will be inducted formally into the University at the annual traditions convocation at 7:30 p.m. today in Memorial Stadium.
Entries in the Lawrence American Royal Queen contest will be chosen from KU sororities, women's dormitories, and from the Douglas County area this year, instead of from the sororites only as in the past.
American Royal Queen Entry To Be Selected In Lawrence
Each house is to select one entry for the contest. A delegate from the Lawrence and Warren commissions will be elected Royal College contest in Kansas City, on Oct. 12.
The contest, to be held at the Granada Theater at 9 p.m. Sept. 27, will be preceded by a banquet at 7 p.m. in the Dine-A-Mite cafe. Entrants will be the guests of the JayCees. Judges will be introduced to the women.
Following the banquet, the women will be taken to the Granada in a motorcade with a police escort.
Serving as master of ceremonies at the final judging will be John Herrington, journalism senior. The queen will be presented a gift of $25 and the other candidates will each receive a gift.
To enter, a woman must be over 18, under 24, and single. Selection will be made on a basis of personal beauty, poise, and culture.
Any woman wishing to enter the contest should phone Lewis C. Rankin, JayCee president, at VI-3-3457, before Friday, Sept 23.
State Spending Zooms Since 1935
Topeka — (U.P.) A 400 per cent rise in Kansas state and local expenditures in the last 20 years was reported today.
The Kansas Legislative Council Committee on Assessment and Taxation said the reason was two-fold: Inflation and the state's shift "from a negative to a positive form of government."
Demands of Kansans for increasing services of government brought on the growing public expenditures and there is no indication the trend "will be reversed in the immediate future."
In 1954, the committee asserted, the amount of money required from Kansas taxpayers for all levels of government—federal, state and local—was $815 million, 814 thousand.
BIG INCREASE SINCE 1945
The greatest increase in government spending has come since the end of World War II, the committee said in conducting a state finance survey ordered by the 1955 Legislature.
This is the heart of the state's fiscal problem, said the committee, headed by Rep. Howard Immel (R-Iola).
A final committee report will
Gas Institute Set For Oct. 3 And 4
The third annual Gas Measurement Institute will be held in Legion Hall at Liberal Oct. 3 and 4.
University Extension and the department of petroleum engineering, together with the Southwest Kansas Petroleum Industry and the State Board of Vocational Education, are sponsors. Institute coordinator is Gerald Pearson, director of extension classes and centers.
The tentative schedule includes discussions on "Density Measurement as applied to Orifice Metering"; "Operation of Orifice Meter Chart Integrators"; Determination and Application of Supercompressibility factors," and "Use of the Mano-meter in the Gas Industry," as well as on safety practices, maintenance, and gas measurement.
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be issued in December, and will try to forecast future state revenues and expenses and analyze possible sources of new tax income.
A 30-day budget session of the Legislature, first in Kansas history, will convene in January to tackle the problem of making state ends meet. Additional revenue has been termed essential to meet steadily mounting state expenditures.
"REGULATION TO ACTION"
In the post-war period, the report stated, Kansas government has shifted from "regulation to action." The committee called the change from negative to positive policy highly significant.
Nearly half the sharp rise in government costs was attributed to inflation during the past decade. The committee pointed out, however, that public demands for extra services have contributed to these increases at the state level alone:
1. Highways—a 13-fold increase.
2. Education—five-fold.
3. Health activities, including mental health—five-fold.
4. Sharing of state revenues with local units in government—a sum that in 1954 equaled 40 per cent of state-collected taxes.
"The upward trend, so evident since 1945, reflects demands on the part of the people of Kansas for increasing services," the report stated.
NO 'PIECEMEAL' LEGISLATION
The 1955 Legislature ordered the study by the Legislative Council and a three-member citizens advisory committee appointed by the governor. Gov. Fred Hall asked for a study to avoid what he called "piecemeal" legislation dealing with the state's revenue situation.
The report showed that no new major sources of revenue have been adopted in Kansas since 1937—when the sales tax was voted.
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