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UNIVERSITY DAILY KANSAN, LAWRENCE, KANSAS
WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 12, 1951
Party Dresses To Have That Extra Bit Of Swish This Fall
New York—(U.P.)—There's no sign of a "new look" in fall fashions, but designers have come up with plenty of new ways to give more swish to party dresses and more handsome simplicity to casual clothes.
Vera Maxwell, who specializes in casual coats and suits, picked colors and fabrics from Portugal, Morocco and Scotland to inspire her new fall designs.
The results are tweedy combinations of Portuguese pink and the dull brick tones of Morocco reeds, and a sports coat adapted from the loose-hanging "jelaba" worn by Moroccan men.
The jelaba coat has a dropped shoulder line, loose sleeves and a panel down each side. To accent the shoulderline and side panel Miss Maxwell used inset bands of contrasting seaming. She even imported some of the original hand-loomed jelaba cloth, brought down from the Atlas mountains in Morocco by donkey, to be made into classic full-length coats lined with winter cotton.
The line between sport and dress clothes isn't as sharply drawn as it once was, and Miss Maxwell proved it by designing a new kind of three-piece suit. The pieces are a grey tie-silk taffeta dress with a low round neck and full skirt; a slim skirt of charcoal-colored winter fleece, and a fitted jacket of fleece lined with grey taffeta. The taffeta is extended to make the facing of the jacket's rolled collar.
"In my own travels I discovered that the jacket from my fleece suit could be worn over taffeta or lace," she explained.
The designer also proved that even a tweed skirt can have that added swish mentioned earlier. So she's come up with special "can-can" petticoats to wear under flaring tweed skirts. The petticoats are made of taffeta with several layers of net ruffles sewn underneath the taffeta to flare over the knees. A typical petticoat for a tweed skirt is a combination of toast brown taffeta and pink net.
Another feminine, ornamental touch has been built into sports clothes by Miss Maxwell. The silver hand-wrought ornaments she saw in Portugal, she said, gave her the idea.
A flat silver ornament is sewn on the breast pocket flap of a black fleece box jacket suit. One of her black fleece straight coats has a heavy silver ornament sewn along one side of the stand-up velvet collar. A tailored suit has three small silver ornaments sewn on the jacket.
It'll be easy for a girl to be the tailored type this fall and still look as feminine as she likes.
The dress designed for a date with a jacket that covers the dress to change it into a daytime costume; this is fall fashion news. Above ensemble by Stephanie Koret of California.
Evelyn Swarthout Now Assistant Prof At AU
Evelyn Swarthout, daughter of Prof. Donald M. Swarthout, former dean of the School of Fine Arts, has been appointed assistant professor of piano at The American university, Washington. D. C.
Miss Swarthout was graduated with honors from KU, in 1932. Following advanced work with Guy Maier, she studied for three years in London with Tobias Matthey. She has appeared in recitals in Europe and in the United States and has been soloist with the National Symphony orchestra of Washington.
In private life Miss Swarthout, who is a cousin of singer Gladys Swarthout, is the wife of Patrick Hayes of Washington.
The long and short view of fall formals is equally glamorous. Imaginative gown designers have added an aura of stardust and moonglow around every one of their new creations.
Autumn evening wear is divided into two groups: the long, slim tube-like silhouette and the exact opposite: the short, billowy bounty gown.
The slim-line dinner dress is a perfect foil for the more mature woman who wants to look slim as can be. While the more petite lass can emphasize her demure proportions with a Dresdenlike froth of "short" evening skirt.
The severity of the new tubelike outline is softened by huge pouff bows at the shoulder, flowing "trumpet" flares at skirt bottom, oversized butterfly sleeves and fly-away panels over the skirt.
Gowns Are Elegant Short Or Long
Fall fabrics for evening gowns are truly fabulous, with brocade, damask-types and metallic-spiced materials most popular.
In the shorter gowns, the bourfant is sometimes minimized by subtracting from the foam-like skirt and designing it in a heavier, "flatter" fabric such as dull satin, taffeta or ottoman.
Scarves, Ascots Make Fashion News
Festoons, cascades and pouffs of lovely color and fabric will swirl around m'lady's neckline this Fall in the most interesting group of scarves and ascots seen in many an Autumn.
Wonderfully textured fabrics with "feel" are promising to reach a popularity high point this season with nubby weaves like "pooodle cloth" and mock fur, simulating pony and broadtail, being featured in large groups of stoles and ascots. In the smooth draping materials, satins and taffetas, some French imports, are striped with subtle coloring and worn as ascots with fluffy central poulps. Plushy velvet applique is sprinkled generously over most neckwear fashions.
Students Can Get K-Book
New students who failed to get their copy of the K-Book handbook may pick up a free copy at the K-Book both in the registration line or at the campus information booth. The K-Book "datebook," a calendar of the year's events at K.U., is on sale at those places.
Furry Jackets
New costume dresses are newer than ever when featured with little cuddle and box jackets in shaggy, curly and fleece fabric textures that bear a close resemblance to fur.
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WAFFLES—Breakfast—Lunch—Dinner ZIM'S Snack Shop "Just East of the Post Office"
Wonderful wool in a wonderful pullover. It's Jantzen's fine 100% virgin worsted, imported from the British Zone, Vienna, Austria. Handsome colors. 34-40. 5.95.
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