9,1941
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 1941
UNIVERSITY DAILY KANSAN, LAWRENCE, KANSAS
PAGE SEVEN
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They Need Lamour, Though
Javanese Invent Sarong
By RALPH COLDREN
The Javanese, not Dorothy Lamour, introduced the batik-designed sarong to the world, although it did take Lamour to give the sarong something the Javanese lacked.
Batik is one of the oldest methods known for creating design on fabrics. It is a wax-resistant process in which color is dyed into the cloth by immersion and the pattern retained by means of pletely waxed for the first color
"Batik" is Javanese and means "something dipped." The process was originated and developed by the natives to ornament their wearing apparel, namely the slendang, a shawl-like wrap worn by the women, and the now famous sarong which needs no elaboration.
Designs used by the Javanese were conventional and adapted to purely practical purposes. Color was originally restricted to indigo, coffee-brown, and the natural color of the cotton cloth used by the natives. Dutch traders to the East Indies were attracted by batik designing and introduced the art to the western world.
Processes are Methodical
The technical processes employed in the modern creation of batik are very methodical. Whether the design be simple or complex the basic procedure is the same. The most important part is the actual designing, as the basic design makes the art.
The original Javanese process was quite complex and the modern method has grown more so. Designs in batik are usually prepared on paper or tracing cloth. After the design is drawn it is transferred to the fabric.
Wax Brushed On
Next a mixture of paraffin, used for its brittleness, and bees-wax, used for its gummy elasticity, is melted and kept hot. The fluid wax is then applied only to those parts of the design which are to retain the original color of the cloth. Wax Brushed On
The wax is put on by means of a brush or tjanting, a small cuplike vessel made of copper secured to the end of a short bamboo handle. The wax flows through a fine spout in the base of the cup and produces a fine line of wax. This process is very characteristic in the Javanese batiks as the natives use the tjanting exclusively in their work.
After the fabric has been com-
plettely waxed for the first color, it is removed from the frame on which it has been stretched during the waxing process and submerged in a warm dye-bath. In this process, known as over-dyeing, the dyes are applied in the sequence of their relative depth of value and intensity.
By this process the lighter colors are applied first. The fabric is then hung and allowed to dry by slow oxidation. Wherever the wax has been applied the dye does not effect the cloth.
Charles Laughton, Robert Cumming and Deanna Durbin in the surprising comedy of the year "It Started With Eve." Today through Wednesday at the Joyhawker.
When the fabric is dry it is restretched on the frame and the process of applying the colors begins. A definite color arrangement must be established since once the fabric is dry, alteration is impossible. Each color is applied individually and the fabric dried to produce harmony of color.
Naptha Removes Grease
By the modern method the last step is to remove the wax by ironing the fabric between sheets of paper. A final bath of naptha removes all grease and restores the fabric to its original softness.
"Crackle" is the most outstanding technical characteristic of batik in that its unique quality can only be achieved by this craft. The crackle effect is produced by crushing the wax before it is fully dried. The result is a fine veining of color in the finished fabric where the dye has penetrated the cracks in the wax.
In pure batik no color is ever "painted-in" or applied in any way but through the dipping process.
For those who have never seen a batik design, Spooner-Thayer museum has a current display of the modern style batik by several contemporary Missouri artists.
Y. W.C.A. Board Meets Monday
The Y.W.C.A. board will meet at 7:30 o'clock Monday night at Henley house.
J. W. Ashton, professor of English, will speak on "Richard Hilles; Tudor Englishman," in the first of the annual program of lectures to be given to English majors, at 3:30 p.m. Wednesday in the Kansas room of the Memorial Union building.
Ashton Will Open English Lecture
The talk is designed especially for English majors and graduate students in English, but all others interested are invited to attend.
Professor Ashton opened the series last year with a discussion of "Thomas Elyot and the English Renaissance."
Students Will Meet Football Team There will be a rally for returning Jayhawk gridders at the Santa Fe station this afternoon. Cheerleader Roy Edwards requests all students to gather by 5:45 p.m.
FOR SALE: A practically new, cleaned, and pressed Tux suit, with vest. Size=36 or 38. Price $12.50. 1125 Vermont. Phone 2138-R.
WANT ADS
Classified Ads
DR. C. F. O'BRYON Dentist
Office, Phone 570, 9451/2 Mass.
Residence, Phone 1956, 1321 Tenn.
If You Miss Mom's Baking Come t
BAKER'S BAKERY
for rolls, pies, doughnuts, bread
1107 Mass.
Open 'till 9 week-day eves,
'till 8 on Sunday
Headquarters for
Sweaters and Skirts
Is
SWOPE'S 943 Mass.
PADDLES
Paul H. Friend, Lumber Phone 42 1030 Mass. St.
C
KEELER'S BOOK STORE Phone 33 939 Mass.
Webster Collegiate Dictionaries $3.50
AT THE WONDER SHOP 719 Mass.
Call at 719 Mass.
They repair all kinds of leather and canvas goods, waterproof leather soles, ladies heel caps, 10c up, waterproofing that shines, oils, soaps, luggage, handles, furs, jackets, coats, golf bags, repaired chokeless dog harness, collars etc.
100 Sheets Stationery, 50 Envelope
Name Imprinted
$1.10
DALE PRINT SHOP
1035 Mass.
1111 Mass. Across from Courthouse-On your way to town Phone 646
STADIUM BARBER and BEAUTY SHOP
3 barbers—Joe Lech, John Kliewer,
Frank Vaughan
2 beauty operators
1033 Mass. Phone 310
FUNK'S MORTUARY and CHAPEL Ambulance Service Phone 119
Money Loaned on Valuables Unredeemed guns, clothing, for sale
ROCK CHALK
12th & Oread
Meals Sandwiches
Fountain Service
Under Student Management
RADIOS. LIGHT BULBS
Steak Fry Equipment, Household
Gift Items, Electric Appliances.
GREEN BROS. HARDWARE
633 Mass. Phone 631
WOLFSON'S
743 Mass. Phone 675
Plumbing. Heating. Wiring Repair work a specialty 929 Mass. St.
Marion Rice Dance Studio Private Lessons in Ballroom Dancing 9271 $ \frac{1}{2} $ Mass. St.
Latest Used Phonograph Records — Reasonable
JOHNNY'S GRILL
1017 1/2 Mass. Phone 961
Lock and Key Service
Tennis Rackets Re-Strung
Guns and Ammunition
RUTTER'S SHOP
1014 Mass. Phone 319
RUTTER'S SHOP
1014 Mass. Phone 319
For Individual Hair Styling
At Popular Prices
Call 387
VENUS BEAUTY SALON 842 Mass.
Beauty Is As Near As
Your Telephone
Phone 2353
MICKEY'S BEAUTY SHOP
73214 Mass
Hotel Eldridge Barber Shop
"We'll Improve Your Personal Appearance"
IVA'S BEAUTY SHOP
Budget prices on all beauty work
Phone 533
941 $ \frac{1}{2} $ Mass.
Jewelry and Gift Shop
833 Mass. Phone 827
ROBERTS'
BURGERT'S
Shoe Service
1113 Mass. St. Phone 141
110 W. 7th
DUSTY RHODES DRIVE IN For Good Food Open All Night
Phone 2059
Glasses Fitted Eyes Examined Broken Lenses Duplicated
NOLL OPTICAL CO.
839½ Mass. Over Royal Shoe Store
Res. Ph. 1312I Office Phone 879
Reliable Radio Service
Radio Electric Service Phone 497 944 Mass.
TAXI Hunsinger's 920-22 Mass. Phone 12
Meet your pals at THE ARROWS Sandwiches. Beer, Fountain 1031 Mass.
Typewriters We have complete typewriter service.
Sales, Rentals, Cleaning and Repairing.
Lawrence Typewriter Exchange
735 Mass. Phone 548
HIXON'S
721 Mass.
HEADQUARTERS FOR Cameras & Supplies. Moving Picture Cameras—Projectors For Sale or Rent
Expert KODAK FINISHING