One size does not fit all By M. Meredith Relph It is probably not apparent when thumbling through the recent issue of Coustopoulia or (QG, but not everyone is wearing) shape to shape to wear the newest "clothes". Dressing fashionably should not be impossible for people with hard-to-fit bodies. Finding the newest styles in sizes that fit properly is not a problem faced only by people who are very tall or short, or who require special sizes. Of course, there are stores that cater to people who wear large, tall or petite clothing, or specially sized shoes. But what about people who are not particularly tall or short, heavy, but who don't fit perfectly into off the rack clothing? Having one's clothing tailored is the best, most infallible way to assure the perfect fit, although major alterations may not always be financially feasible. Tailoring can be very expensive and time-consuming. An alternative is shopping in specialty stores for particular items and regular department stores for other needs. For example, men who may not be particularly tall, but who have long arms or broad shoulders may find properly fitted shirts at a tall shop. Tall-sized men's shirts have long arms, and short sleeved lengths may be either long or regular. Illustration by Dave Eames/KANSAN Specialty stores may offer a partial tailoring service, which allows customers to have pockets or jacket altered slightly for a more personal fit. Women who are less than 5 feet 6 inches tall may find their sizes in stores for petite builds. However, petite sizes are simply scaled down sizes from regular junior and misses clothing, and may not guarantee an exact fit. Recently, many designers have recognized that consumers do not share a universe size and shape. Fashion lines have been expanded to include people who are not a perfect size eight. A good brand name product is generally more expensive, but is made of better fabric and may be cut with less trim. Customers can find the only real test, though, is to try on various styles and brands of clothes to find what looks best. Women may find the men's departments to be helpful when looking for wardrobe basics. Men's socks tend to fit women with larger feet better than women's socks. Men's socks are generally longer and can now be found in almost all colors and styles as women's. The men's department is also popular with women who prefer oversized clothing T-shirts, turtleneck shirts and long sleeves. Men's departments and can sometimes be found in a wider range of sizes than comparable items in womenwear. In recent seasons, men's fashions have left behind the plain colors and subtle textures popular for generations. Men now have as many clothing options as women, and should not be averse to trying out the new styles. This season, for example, colors vary from brights to deep earth tones. Particu larly in menswear, new colors are emerging and old standards are being rejuvenated. Loden green is being paired with mustard, navy with fuschia, colors and combinations that men have avoided in past seasons. Textures and mixes are also been offered upon the fashion custom of men who have felt secure in blues and grays for years. Of course, an individual's taste dictates the types of clothing one will choose, regardless of frivolous fashion trends. Wardrobe experimentation is fun and allows one to try out a new look. However there are fashion caveats. Tall, slender people should avoid shirts with a narrow vertical striped pattern. Likewise, heavier people would do well to stay away from horizontal strips or large, busy patterns. In a season dedicated to details, shorter people should avoid cuffed pants, as the extra detail will call attention to short legs. While shorter skirts are still vogue for women, shapes are more flared and flounced this fall, which are flattering to women with less-than-model-dimension hips and rears. The ankle-length skirt creates a slender flowing silhouette, but the straight-skirt swag included by a torsion or too fine skirt. When choosing clothing for any season, fashion always dictates certain styles. However, fashion shouldn't be limited by what is shown on magazine covers or mannequin displays. Personal styles make the most emphatic statements, and have inspired most trends that ultimately sweep the fashion ports of the world. Kansan Fashion Special IMAGE/Wednesday, September 28.1988 23