Thursday, December 5, 1968
THE UNIVERSITY DAILY KANSAN
7
It's a wide, wide world for ties
NEW YORK—(UPI)—Almost anything goes in 1968 Fall ties as long as they are wide. What started as a trend a year ago is now a style fact and a big percentage of the Fall ties appear to be in the neighborhood of four inches wide—and a few almost five.
This year, too, there is more coordination among shirt and necktie manufacturers than ever before and in many cases direct coordination among clothing manufacturers. In a few cases a consumer can buy a package deal-suit, shirt, tie, etc., all carefully color coordinated.
The Fall shirts come in very deep tones and a manufacturer such as Hathaway would work closely with such companies as Hut, Polo and Pulitzer. A big tie company like Burma-Bibas would work closely with Hart
Schaffner and Marx, Eagle Clothing or perhaps Botany while studying shirt swatches from leading shirtmakers.
The rush to turtleleen sweaters and Nehru or Mao jackets appears to have had little or no effect on tie sales. The Men's Tie Foundation reports sales of $410 million in 1967, or 270 million ties, up from the $390 million of the year before. Predictions for 1968 are more than $500 million in sales for 285 million ties.
One of the new style leaders is Ralph Lauren, 28, who left a staid old traditional tie house a year ago to found Polo and take the neckwear world by storm. His ties are about 3 7/8 inches with a wide throat to produce bulky knots.
Paisleys are considered dead by most of the tie world, but
not by Lauren who brought them back in striking colors including purple and deep oranges (plus subdued colors) and calls them tapestries. The big story here is texture and Lauren does it with such items as square bottomed knits, silk Shetlands, heavy repps.
Another style leader is Walter Kelly of Hut (Nino Rice, Lanvin). His ties generally run 3 3/4 inches with a 3-inch shoulder for a shaped or ascot look. For Lanvin he has a new print look—one showed big white overlapping circles on a blue background.
New Colors
Pulitzer of New York, who uses basic designs of the past with new colors, also has gone wide and 90 per cent are 3 1/2 inches and some at four. Pulitzer is big on "medium" colors
shrimp. magenta and lime green.
John Weitz, who designs for Burma-Bibas, has an animal collection for Fall-zebra stripes, leopard spots, turtle and alligator squares—in such improbable animal colors as navy and dark red. His run 3 to 3 1/4 inches.
Robert L. Schafer, a rising young designer for Burma-Bibas, had these ideas for the Prince Igor line-animal prints which are tiny figures of animals such as zebras, giraffes and jaguars in their natural colors but against a variety of backgrounds.
Oleg Cassini showed a Zodiac collection with Zodiac signs against a solid background and 3 1/2 inches wide, with a wide throat. Trigere showed a wool crepe in far eastern prints, slightly bled like a Madras.
Bill Miller of the Village Square, whose wide ties several years back helped create the current fashions, runs from four to five inches with a few at six. He used velvet for a rich and wide looking tie that can be worn as an ascot; an Indian
(American) print on a very wide, wide-waled corduroy to give bulk.
Countess Mara, holding at 3 inches, refuses to get caught up in the frenzy of the fashion cycle on grounds most of the customers in its $8 to $100 price range are businessmen. The cycle brought back Chinoiserie which are vivid pastel satins hand painted by artist May Ying Lee in such designs as butterflies and flowers ($50). There were pastel silk crepes with large rambling designs.
Fabiana, long known for its fine silks, holds it ties at 3 1/8 inches. It showed a real basket weave sild in multi-colors, a 3-dimensional boucle and corded stripe.
Damon Creations held the throat of its ties narrow for people who don't want big bulky knots. One group were water prints and brush prints which looked as if an artist had brushed on the design. A "tie on tie" design had small figures forming stripes.
Nixon 'honeymoon' may be short-lived
WASHINGTON (UPI)—President-elect Richard M. Nixon will be deluding himself if he counts on more than a brief honey-moon with Congress.
Despite the honeyed talk of hand-holding, there are the makings of a series of slugsfests between the Republican in the White House and the Democratic-controlled 91st Congress—and not necessarily along party lines.
Nixon's pet project for ghettos—tax incentives to industry to locate in the slums and to train slum dwellers for jobs—is finding few takers of either party among lawmakers.
Black capitalism, another Nixon favorite, will need considerable salesmanship to convince key congressmen on the need for a new government lending agency.
Nixon will find some strong opposition in Congress to any more funds to sharply increase defense spending to attain his much talked about clear military superiority over Russia.
If he plans to starve some of the Great Society spending programs in juggling government priorities, as he promised, Nixon may get involved in more of a fight than he bargained.
And on the income surcharge, he can expect a fight. If he asks for extension of the 10 per cent increase beyond June 30 when it is scheduled to expire, Democrats will remind him of his campaign pledge to let the surtax die.
In all squabbles that develop no new president has had a prolonged honeymoon with Congress—Nixon will have in
Spiro T. Agnew an untried and inexperienced Vice President to deal with the Senate.
The last five Vice Presidents have been products of the Senate—Hubert H. Humphrey, Lyndon B. Johnson, Nixon, Alben W. Barkley and Harry S. Truman. They knew the temperament of the men they had to deal with. Each, to varying degrees of effectiveness, served as the Senate eyes and ears for the president, and not infrequently as a mediator of disputes.
Agnew will be a stranger until he has won his own place in the Senate establishment. Until that time comes, Nixon will have to depend upon the minority leader, Sen. Everett M. Dirksen of Illinois, for his main prop in the Senate. Dirksen is ready for the role.
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ATLANTIC CITY, N.J. (UPI)
—An organization that firmly believes it is better late than never will hold a convention this weekend to nominate a candidate for this year's presidential election.
Sorry, we didn't get around to writing a headline for this story, but watch for it in coming issues.
The organization is the Procrastinators Club of America. Its
chairman, Don Rosenblit of Cherry Hill, says he smells "strong support for the candidacy of Richard Nixon." He added, though, that the former Vice President still must prove "he is a sincere candidate."
Rosenblit said 13 states would send delegates to the convention. Other candidates in the running, he said, are Millard Fillmore, George Washington and Harold Stassen.
Give Her a Gift That Will Linger
This Christmas give her a gift
of perfume.
Raney's has a complete selection of fragrances from the most popular cosmetic lines.
At Raney's cosmetic counter you will find perfume by Faberge in four scents: Aphrodisia, Woodhue, Tigress, and Flambeau. Raney's also carries the sprays, bath oil, both powder, soap and combined sets in these four fragrances.
Revlon's Aquamarine and Intimate come in cologne, spray mist, perfume and even scented candles in the Intimate fragrance.
My Sin and Arpege by Lanvin are always prized gifts.
Trv Caron's Nuit de Noel (Christmas Night), Fleurs of Rocaille and Bellodgia.
At Raney's you may also select from such lines as Coty, Max Factor, Chantilly, Dana, Helena Rubenstein, and Yardley.
Come to one of Raney's three conveniently located drug stores for the largest selection in perfumes, a gift that will linger.