The
University World
SPECIAL FALL CLOTHING SUPPLEMENT
Clothing in this window is characteristic of college men of good taste. Natural shoulder clothing with a flair for color and subtle refinement. The new shaped clothing as shown here will add new dimension when combined with the classic basics of your well planned wardrobe.
Men's New Clothing
Tradition Prevails
Each year, the question always comes up. "What's new in clothes on the campus?" As in previous years, the styling changes are mostly in detailing for the man who holds to the classic, natural shoulder look.
In suits, there are many minor changes which appeal to the active man about campus. For instance the new fall suits at Mister Guy feature wider lapels, slightly deeper center vents in the back and many new shades in glen plaid and other patterned fabrics.
The traditional three-button suit is still the mainstay, complete with cuffed trousers in the traditional, classic plainfront styling. The front roll on the three-button suits goes down to the middle button for casual, yet dressed-right look.
Although there is a great deal of talk about the double-breasted sport coats and suits, this style is not an important part of the wardrobe. It is regarded as an "extra." The well-dressed man avoids side vents and gimmicks. Only center vent double-breasted models should be considered.
One of the most exciting trends this year that offers a great deal of variation for the traditional dresser is the so-called 'sport suit.' This is a suit made of the heavier, 'tweedy' fabrics and is really not designed to always be worn as a suit but as separates.
For instance, the three parts
of a sport suit - the coat, the vest and the trousers - can mix with other trousers and coats for a casual, yet correct look. It is perfectly correct to wear the coat of a sport suit with odd slacks. Or, you can wear the vest of a sport suit with odd slacks and a blazer.
Any way you look at it, the sport suit offers flexibility and tonation to the man who knows the rules in the first place. You can't call the sport suit a replacement for any of your other basic suitings, but you can sure add flexibility with the sport suit for it is almost a wardrobe in itself when worn with other accessories.
Patterned suits will probably be stronger this year than at any time in many years. When patterns are mentioned, this means the stripes - pin strips or chalk stripes - and plaids. The stripes will be seen in navy, dark brown, grey and putty tones. Glen plaids will be seen again in black and white, grey tones or olives. These suits will be in worsted and hard-finished twills and saxonies.
As always, the navy blue suit will be important. The navy pin stripe is just as correct as a solid navy and will be very popular this fall. Your navy suit, whether a solid or stripe, can be a year round suit in medium weight. This makes it perfect for a dance after a football game in October, or for a Saturday night.
Blazer is Still Tops
In sport coats, the navy blue blazer is still king of the hill. The man who can't afford many sport coats can get real enjoyment out of a navy blazer and will enjoy wearing it several times a week. The versatility of the navy blazer can best be demonstrated through the wide maze of accessories that can turn it into a new outfit every day. Almost any shirt and tie combination gives an entirely fresh - yet correct - look to the basic navy blazer.
The patterned sport coats will be lighter this fall and the patterns will be increasingly larger. The Shetland fabric is the leader in this coating. The basic sport coat, like the suit, will have a three-button front, rolled to the second button, and wider lapels.
The back vents on sport coats will remain in the center and will be deeper to continue the trend set last year. There will be some vertical patterns in the tweeds and Shetland-type coats and these will certainly be in good taste.
If you must go for a double-breasted coat, make sure it has the soft natural silhouette, center vent, wide lapel and long roll to the lapel as in the single-breasted basic models. Don't get a double-breasted coat as a replacement of a basic coat, for the double-breasted coat cannot be considered a basic part of the wardrobe.
Campus Leaders Discuss Clothing
A Kansas City senior returning from an intercollegiate fashion conference reported a rapidly growing interest in men's clothing and its effect on their personal and professional futures. "As a regular Mister Guy customer, I'm a confirmed traditionalist myself," he said, "but I was amazed to find such a high percentage of the really top guys from all the best schools also wear traditional clothing. Discussing clothes with these fellows made me realize the tremendous effect a really good shop can exert on an area."
A men's clothing manufacturer confirmed this. "The one thing that impresses us is the way you fellows from Kansas City are becoming real leaders in traditional clothing."
Bert Pulitzer, president of a leading New York neckwear company, spoke in the same vein. "Here in New York, we are just beginning to sell our wider shaped tie, but Mister Guy in Kansas City has been selling them in quantity for over a year."
Yank Price of Sero Shirtmakers, pointed out that his company always confers with industry leaders like Mister Guy before finalizing their new lines.
John Angus, with Pringle of Scotland, commented on their very successful new lambswool sweater shirt. "Jerry Berkowitz, of Mister Guy, wanted a sweater that would be classic in look, but versatile and lightweight enough to be worn as a casual shirt. We made it, and it's great."
Representatives from other sections of the country talked about some of the other fine shops they patronize. The one thing that seemed to come out time after time was the great preference for the small traditional shop and the personal attention and advice they can give. In an informal poll this preference for dealing with a natural shoulder specialist drew over 90% of the votes. Big stores or even so-called traditional departments in conventional stores just don't have the overall approach you get from a specialist they all agreed.
The Campus Look
From a fashion standpoint, what really is happening on campus these days? Has the hippie movement made any significant inroads in the university fashion scene?
Are the nation's college men tuning in on Nehru, Cardin and the other extreme styles being bantered about by columnists and worn by show business personalities?
Solidly Traditional
The answer is a resounding NO! The campuses are still solidly traditional. The strongest conclusion drawn from all college surveys shows the average college man wants to learn and practice the fundamentals of good fashion and good grooming via the Traditional route.
A few uninformed freshmen arrive on campus with an unuseable collection of wild items from their high school wardrobes. But in short order the NATURAL SHOULDER Tradition takes over to serve as a four year training ground for his coming professional life.
With the exception of slightly longer hair and sideburns, the hippie influence has been unnoticeable. Durable press slacks have knocked out jeans on most campuses and other "collegiate" items are now set
The typical weekday campus uniform consists of a button down dress shirt (always) worn under a V-neck or crew neck sweater or sweater shirt. Turtleneck sweaters are making big inroads in certain areas (see Regional Clothing Guide).
Patterned slacks or new beefy twills are color coordinated to the sweater. The new british tan loafers or boots complete the outfit.
For dressier occasions, college men add a sports jacket (generally a rich plaid) and a bold tie in the new wider widths. Vested suits in the new country look are becoming the newest symbol for the campus leaders of good taste.
aside. Sneakers are passe', pajamas virtually unheard of, and even the sweatshirt seems to be fading (pun) away.
So, in spite of the hippie penchant for slovenliness - or perhaps because of it - the essentials of good grooming have moved up several notches in collegiate significance during the last few years. College men may be applauded for not giving way to tasteless extremes and maintaining their tradition of good taste.