Daily hansan
LAWRENCE. KANSAS
54th Year, No. 43 SECTION C
Friday, Nov. 9, 1956
Good Taste In Men's Clothes Important
Good Taste In Revolution In Men's Wear Reflects Prosperity
BY BETTY JEAN STANFORD
(Daily Kansan Society Editor)
Whether they are wearing a velvet collar, bow tie, or a tux, men's fashions are just as important as women's . . . this is not so only ir the men's view point but also to the female population.
Whether they are wearing a velvet collar, bow tie, or a tux, men's fashions are just as important as women's . . . this is not so only in the men's view point but also to the female population.
If you don't believe this, just take a look at the most recent Arrow shirt advertisements in which you see a woman elegantly dressed for an evening out and in one hand she holds a slim chain on which dangles a man with the caption reading: A woman's most important accessory is a well-dressed man.
Men's fashions have had a tendency to remain reasonably static the past several years, but this year there is a revolution in men's clothing from the plain cut clothes to the appearance of daintily ruffled shirts, velvet collars, and tucked bib front shirts which have been regarded as "strictly for the sissies" the last twenty years.
Revolution In Men's Wear
Test Run
The clothing of this season reflects prosperity in every line and cut. The clothes will be elegant and luxurious in their quality and taste. In every sense of the word it will be a dress-up season.
These items are being given a test run this season. Whether or not they are here to stay is another question and one for the men to decide:
Lovat green corduroy jacket with lovat green covert lapels to be worn with slacks to match. When combined gives you a country suit with a new look . . .
A dacron-cotton raincoat with a print lining.
Continental look in a sport jacket of hand-woven imported tweed. Main feature of this jacket is vertical slash pockets.
And the most unusual item being tested is music box cuff links in 18 karat gold case starred with diamond, ruby and emerald. With this music box cuff link you have a choice of nine tunes and if the man desires he may have a different tune on each cuff. The drawback—they cost about $300.
On this page, which is devoted to men's fashions, we will be taking a look at some of the individual garments and accessories which will be high fashion for men this season.
Flat Hats Are Fashion Highlight
A new trend is developing in men's hats. They are going flat. After the success last spring with the low, flat, narrow-brimmed hats, manufacturers are predicting they will be even more popular this season.
The flat look is achieved in several ways. The two main ways are molding and folding. The one method most used is the telescopic fold.
Especially good colors this season are the varying shades of gray and black. Variations of brown will also be worn. Hat bands will have more eye interest. Woven wool tweed bands are becoming popular. Also a spread feather decoration is proving quite popular with the men.
Loden Cloth. A Fashion Hit?
Loden cloth is back again to make its bid for popularity. A favorite of many years ago but known to only a limited group, it is coming out in plaids and checks. It may prove to be a hit because of its qualities of lightness, and wind and water repellency.
Three Buttons On Men's Suits
Dressier. That's the one word that completely describes the suits for this year.
Their principal characteristics are the three-button front which is replacing the two button front, natural lines (very little padding) and moderate-width lapels with high notches. Peak lapels and cuffs on coat sleeves will be seen more often.
Charcoal will be most popular with the navy blues gaining rapid popularity. Subtle colors and color combinations will be the ultimate in sophistication. Unusual colors will include bronze, coppers, off shades of green and blue and will be seen in the larger cities.
Coming back to the scene again is the double-breasted suits and with them are patterns, mostly of the traditional sort.
The suits are not designed to make the male look like an uncomfortable fashion plate all dressed up with no place to go, but rather they are styled to meet today's needs with an emphasis on comfort and ease.
Today's men are getting larger. The average man today wears a size 41 suit whereas his ancestors 25 years ago wore a size 38.
HMMM, NICE — Elmo Courville, Concordia sophomore, is wearing a custom tailored-to-measure in the latest Ivy League styling. The suit features welt seams and a hook vent.
JUST THE THING—A warm hooded toggle coat worn by Elmo Courville, Concordia sophomore, will be one of the most popular coats for men for the coming winter season. The hood may be folded down when not worn. Marlin McCune, Chanute senior, wears a popular three-button Ivy League black and white tweed sports coat.
Men will be wearing sweaters and more sweaters this winter. They will be the huge, bulky hand-knit type or contemporary cardigans. The sweaters will be getting inspiration from all over the Continental Look.
The sweater that looks the most promising to becoming a fashion hit is the bright wide vertical striped sweater in bold colors.
Among the popular styles of bulky sweaters is the heavy knit navy wool pullover with the cable stitch at the front. It has a zipper closing at the neck and raglan sleeves.
Baggy Shag
Sweaters More Masculine Include Bulky Hand Knits
Some of the wool cardigans will have brass buttons which combine with the bulky knit into a very pleasing combination.
Into many a man's wardrobe the "baggy shag" will find its way It is of heavily brushed 65% imported wool and 35% imported baby kid mohair. It emphasizes the rough outdoor look.
Many men will choose a heavy knit pullover with white, red and black trim, convertible Italian collar as their favorite for the winter season.
Foreign Influence
More foreign influence is to be found in sweaters this season. There is a Finland inspired "Finnmark" sweater which is a heavy knit wool with bold woven designs over the top and over the shoulders. The "Icelanic" sweater has horizontal stripes in beige and black.
Men will find that wool is not the only fabric to be found in sweaters this season but that they now have sweaters in chasme which is keyed to fit the rough masculine wearability.
The season's new styles of sweaters with the broad stripes across the chest and shoulders can make a man with the hollowest chest look like a he-man. Just the thing for those who never thought that sweaters "did anything for them." The new V-bands and artful cutting of the new models of sweaters make the thinnest men marvel at their reflection in the mirror.
Ivy League Worn Most By KU Men
For men's wear on campus the Ivy League Look is all the go. Regardless what it is, if it has the Ivy League Look then it is "real gone."
Merchants agree that the crew neck bulky knit sweater is the main choice of the student. In shirts a button down collar is a must before the student will even look at it.
In suits, sport coats, and slacks there is only one way of defining it and that's the genuine "Ivy League Look."
Shoes most purchased are the plain toed dress shoes in Scotch grain. For sport wear it's the Italian and domestic loafers in the cordovan color. Black and white saddle shoes are still quite popular.
Continental influence is seen a great deal in outwear. The alpine coat with toggle fasteners lead the field.
Ties are popular in neat figures in wool challis or silk red stripes. One the whole the color of ties are subdued.
The tie bars are smaller and are being replaced to a great extent with the single tie tacks.
Lapel handkerchiefs with two or three initials are a must to complete every male student's wardrobe.
Overcoats Are Lighter
Overcoats, commonly termed the topcoat, are tending to be lighter in weight, shorter and not overly dressy for the coming season. Tendencies for the lighter weight coat is attributed to the milder winter seasons and the common appeal for lighter clothing.
The overcoats will keep you warm on the coldest days if it has the zip-in liner. Many of the top-coat zip-in liners have sleeves as well as body lining in one piece that is detachable.
Double-breasted, greatcoats and ulsters are on the scene again. The top novelty coat being tried and which may parallel the coats of the Twenties is the deep pile, fur-like fabric coat.
It will be in colors of seal black, nutria and beaver. Manufacturers are wondering if it will be the "Bear Cat" coat of '56.
Rough tweeds and woolens lead the fabric weaves. The herringbone, plain and check patterns will be popular also. Following these are the smooth topcoats such as gabardines and velours.
And for those who can afford them there are the all-cashmeres and the cashmere blends which are becoming more popular every year.
Men Wore This 44 Years Ago
By PAT SWANSON
BY PAT SWANSON
(Of The Daily Kansan Staff)
Forty-four years ago at this time the University of Kansas was planning its first homecoming game and activities. And as they will be tomorrow, young men were getting ready for the parties following the game. College men of today may well be thankful that they do not have to don the dress attire of their grandfathers.
Formal dress for evening consisted of an overcoat, a suit coat with a swallowtail and silk-faced lapel, and a waistcoat of white pique or linen with pearl or moonstone buttons. Trouswears matched the suit coat and had braided outseams.
White Gloves
In addition to a shirt and collar,
Necessary jewelry consisted of studs or links and perhaps platinum bar chains.
other accessories included a cavat, a broad white tie of plain or figured pique, and gloves of white or pearl kid.
High Top English Flats
High silk hats with broad felt bands were a must for the theater or opera. For less formal wear a black derby was appropriate.
English shoes. Typical shoes, referred to as "boots," were high top English flats, in calf skin or patent leather with button tops of cloth or kid. Patent leather pumps were worn for dancing.
The wardrobe for more general wear was informal but still the
overcoat, suit coat, waistcoat and trousers were an essential part of any man's dress. Fancy striped trousers were often worn with a cutaway coat in daytime.
In 1912 fashion designers for men were writing that the natural shoulders and waists was the new look in men's suits.
The hat for informal or sports wear played an extremely important part in a man's wardrobe for seldom was a well-groomed man seen without one. The "Bull Moose" style with a broad brim and crushed crown was a favorite and there is a striking resemblance between the billed driving cap of the early 1900's and the Ivy Leaguer of today.