4
Wednesday, August 28, 1974
University Daily Kansan
THE UNIVERSITY DAILY
KANSAN
FEATURES
With a crew-neck sweater, khaki pants and soft-leather penny laver shoes, Mike Glover, a salesman at Mr. Gurs, shows the fashion for men that could wear blue jeans and 1-shirts for on-campus weed this fall.
Fall fashion
The gray pin-striped suit, long admired by the Wall Street barons, has reappeared this fall with wider lapels, higher arm holes and a deeper center vent in the coat. The pants have one wide button pocket and flair to the legs. Clainbone shows how the young executive might look in the suit on his way to the office or how an undergraduate might fit in it on a formal occasion. Glover is modeling a shawl-collared shirt with a belt and shown up again on the fashion scene with a few minor changes.
Dave Guntert, Topka graduate student, is wearing the leisure suit, which has partially replaced sports shorts.
Men's styles go traditional
By JEFFREY STINSON
Associate Editor
An American once complimented an Englishman on the Spice suit she was wearing, and he looked so dapper in their vests.
"But my dear fellow," the Englishman reported said, this isn't a vest-it's a vest. They are vests under wraps.
Regardless of what they are called, vests epilomize the trend in this fall's fashions for men.
Clothing stores are stocking their racks with vested suits, striped and club ties, navy and jacket jackets and pledges.
"We're going back to a more traditional look," says Sparky Claiborne, manager of Mr. Breen, who called it a traditionaled.
Fashions go in a cycle, Claiborne savs.
"When business is great, clothes get wilder," he says. "Now that the economy has changed, men want a suit they can wear longer and a suit they can wear with different things."
Town Shop, agrees. He compared this fall's fashions to when he was an undergraduate University in the late 1950s.
Pete Whitenight, owner of the
"Blue jeans and t-shirts won't be scrapped," he says. "But there'll be more of a sense of color coordination this fall. I'm not buying a revival of the '50s but there will be khaki pants, button-down shirts and sleeveless sweaters."
In fall suits, the look is traditional grey and navy pint-speckles and solids, and earthy-toned colors and checks in natural fabrics.
Suit colors aren't as bold this year, Clairborne says, and the plaids aren't as wild.
Padded shoulders have been replaced by natural shoulderins in suit coats. There are darts in the side of both the coat and sleeve, which can be higher. Pants are not as flared in the leg and cuffs are optional.
Button holes and stitching has been done by hand. And watch pockets are on a lot of pants.
There is more detailing in the suits' construction, Claiborne says.
is the leisure suit," Whitenight says.
The leisure suit in corduroy, wool and denim blends have replaced sports coats in popularity.
The leisure suits come western-style. Some are more country-walking-suit in appearance. And corduroy vested-suits in bottle green, brown, rust, collar and tan also are popular.
For on campus wear, khaki pants are the big news.
The biggest news in clothing
Crew-neck sweaters in earthy colors are the expected rage, although cardigans are headlined to make a comeback.
Shawl-collared sweaters, which have few years, are appearing this week in unpacked sweater and with a wrap around belt.
V-neck sweaters are mainstays, Clairborne and Whitnight say, and patterned sweaters are expected to remain popular.
The western influence should be popular in sports shirts, Clairbree says, and a European-styled shirt with two
pockets and military epaulets should be big.
Dress shirts are tapered this fall. They are without pocketk. They have 2-button adjustable cuffs. And the checked look should dominate most dress shirts, many magazines say.
Stacked footwear is out and a lower-heeled, softer-leather shoe is in. Claiborne says.
Penny and tassel loafers are going to be popular for casual wear, he says. And wingtips made of calf leather with a more pointed toe will be worn for dress. he says.
Rugged suede and roughed out leather shoes with a heavier sole should be campus foot-wear fare, he savs.
Many of the 100 per cent natural fiber clothes that began to appear again last fall and winter will be diluted this fall with polyester to keep rising temperatures. Claboorte and Whitewright say,
Claiborne says clothing prices have jumped more this year because of the New York recession. At a cotton crop failure in Texas,
He says he anticipates an additional jump within the next two months.
Women Skirts, sweaters return
By CHRIS STEVENS Contributing Writer
"From a fashion standpoint, skirts are where it's at for fall." Barbaria Szpak, New York's Mademoiselle magazine merchandizing editor, in a recent study, said Kansan. "The skirt is the newest, dressed down for campus wear."
The skirts are different from those seen in the last few years. Hemlines stop at the knee or drop to midfall. The shorter
Skirts. New York fashion says women will be wearing them this fall.
lengths are vanishing from clothing store racks.
Long cardigans, wrapped and belted with a shawl collar or hood, knitted in knubby, bulky ones are making a strong shirt for those detailing on sweaters in pockets, either traditional side
Yet, skirt styles to suit anyone are being shown this season. They are pleated, flared, wrapped around and gathered. Sheaters, in any length or height, are common skirts. Cardigans with short or long sleeves are among the most popular.
Despite the push for skirts, girls will probably not give up their pants and jeans.
Cardigans with a matching sweater vest are a No. 1 seller, said Mrs. B. Duschek, sales manager for Village Set stores. And turtlenecks are updated every four months. The sweater's neck is extra long and can be rolled down once or as many as five times.
pockets or the new front kangaroo pocket.
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"Pants are here to stay," Spak said, "they are practical and comfortable, but just not new."
This Fall's pants are cut with straight or slightly flexed legs, cuffed or uncuffed, and with a high or natural waistline.
"But then different looks keep rolling around. The cycle is returning to the skirt and sweater look of the late 50s and early 60s Whitentight said. "I felt that I was very uncomfortable the other. They can only be comfortable in a gr 'bby look so long."
KU girls are going to wear skirts, and Duschek. "The skirt look is more feminine, fresh and fun," she said. "We're going to you to work. class and dates."
Fabrics for pants and skirts are classic wool tweeds, flannels, garadines, wool blends and corduroys. Plaids, strips, and soils are fabric pattern; the fall clothes are sewn in.
Whitenight of the Town Shop and Country House, said she would look the book would catch on when she got so much with voucher girls.
Many clothes lines that traditionally use natural fabrics tend to be the fall. Whitteenthens said a polyester cent polyester in a wool or cotton base won't ruin the fabric, but it will cut production costs.
Whitenight said prices on
Earth colors are the theme this year, said Christie McRae, Country House salesgirl and Topea senior.
woolens and cotton fabrics had gone up since last season because of a scarcity of natural woven fabrics. Duschek said she had not noticed any price increase this year.
Heavy belts, often with an ethnic look, buckled over sweaters or blouses add to the total look. Purses are big and leathery, either shoulder bags or cloak-like garments. Corrocy, embroidered towels or quilted fabric make tote bags that are best sellers.
"The bright colors are gone in favor of beiges, rusts, browns, greys and forest greens," she said.
"No more platforms and no more monster shoes," Spak said. Tassled loafers, monk straps and pumps were styles from the 1960s that sellers particularly rugged, nonfitting leather styles.
Accessories are important for the popular look of haberdashery. A scarf, ascothed, wraparound, around the neck, beaded necked or a couple of bracelets finish an outfit, Szpak said.
Women's shoes tend to be more refined and feminine this season.
Fall formal wear is just a dressed up version of the skirt look.
"accessorizing makes it a formal look," Spak said. "Add a crepe soft printed blouse, a sweater and box necklace and you've got it."
Duschek said that the prairie look, a small patterned long dress in volt, velvet or satin with crocheted trim, was the most popular style for campus weddings. He said, some formal paijama sets would sell around the holiday season.
The flared skirt is big fashion news for fall. Nancy Batman, Great Bend senior, wears a cardigan sweater and matching sweater vest with this wool glove and with matching solid cardigans are a number one item this season.
Christie McRae, Topeka senior, wears a bootleight front pleated skirt with a three-turnurtle tuckle sweater. A wrapped cardigan sweater in a tweedy, knubby knit is heavy enough to use as a jacket. Shoes are sleeker and more refined, but still have a high heel.
Pants are practical and definitely here to stay. To Bowers, Falls Church, VA, freshman, wears a wool blend pants outfit. Pants are tweedy lotted, worn with a solid tweed top and patterned blouse. Mixing fabric prints and textures in complimentary colors produces a habersaddy look for back to campus.
A classic wool 2-piece suit is a versatile, practical purchase for a fall warrior dress. The skirt is knee-length, with special detailing in side slash pockets and a button down front. The blazer is cut with slightly fitted sides, wide lapels and patch pockets. Ideal for homecoming.