Exploring the East and Dispelling Its Myths
During the summer of 1999 as I was coming into Beijing from a jolly good trip to Western Europe I was struck with an emotion I had not experienced since my first trip abroad or Biology 101. It was that sinking feeling that I was about to get in way over my head. The Chinese onboard Lufthansa flight 720, who had been asleep since the moment we boarded about eight hours earlier, were now wide awake (and to my chagrin had opened the window shades). The sleep that I would expect on an international flight soon became impossible as the chatter and movement grew. After this came the breakfast: thick noodles and lukewarm Chinese tea. I figured it was either a cruel joke or a sign we that had crossed into Chinese airspace. Well, no longer fearing the sun I decided to pull up my shade to see where on God's green earth we were and to my surprise we happened to be over a desert. Yes, that sinking feeling grew even deeper. Had we made a wrong turn in Albuquerque or was it North Korea? (consulting my Lonely Planet I realized we were over the Gobi Desert, which brings delightful sandstorms to northern China every spring.) Anyway, this landscape continued up to the Great Wall near Beijing's old airport, which I didn't seriously think could to accommodate a 747 until our decent began. We managed to squeeze onto the runway with some whiplash, but a whole three feet of asphalt to spare. Walking into the terminal with green uniformed PLA soldiers I knew this would either be the most uncomfortable and/or exotic experience of my life. Fortunately the latter dominated.
This first trip to Asia lasted only three months, but it ultimately provided an experience that could never have been matched in Lawrence and when I was confronted with the opportunity last October to return through an exchange program at the University of Hong Kong I could only provide faint resistance. Hong Kong, located in the South of China, was my last stop before returning in 1999 and though I had only spend three days there I knew, as anyone whose been to London or Tokyo does, that you could explore this city's streets for a lifetime without seeing everything. Hong Kong, which was a British
colony for 150 years, retains all the conveniences of a major Western city (there are over 100,000 Westerners living there), but also exudes a dominant Asian character with flashy neon signs, exotic foods, and old men playing mahjong. Its population at nearly 7 million occupies an area no bigger than metro St. Louis, hence, its most dominant image - that of the massive glass-fronted skyscraper and bustling street scene. Indeed the capitalist conception runs strong in Hong Kong, as it does in other Asia cities.
The Chinese both on the mainland and in the SAR immediately confronted me as very entrepreneurial. Deals on top quality pirated goods were abound, especially just north of the border (45 minutes by subway) where I could buy Gucci, Mont Blanc, Northface, Rolex, and hand-made suits for one-fourth retail. Further, Hong Kong, like Tokyo, was an excellent place to buy original and pirated electronics products, such as video cameras for half-retail and all sorts of computer gizmos that aren't even on the market here. Of course in accordance with this capitalist drive I also found that a good majority of people spoke English, especially in Hong Kong, but also in other Asian cities such as Shanghai and Bangkok. Quite frankly in terms of English language ability I found the Chinese to be more capable than the Italians and more willing than the French. At any rate, with the exception of one taxi ride, I never had any serious difficulties with the "language barrier" in Hong Kong.
Of course beyond the modern skyscrapers and an the occasional pagoda (Chinese-style building) Hong Kong also retains much of its colonial charm. From the ionic columns of the old governor's mansion to the smoky, wood-paneled foreigner's only (or generally) clubs, Hong Kong can still seen by many of its resident Brits as a major pillar of Her Majesty's empire. Indeed the Brits in my group occasionally needed a reality check. Inline with this and regardless of how guilty it made me feel, it was also quite common to find a nostalgia for the colonial days when you could always sit in a club in a white suit with a cigar in one hand and martini in the other while watching your cargo cross the
harbor. My hall, which was a converted late nineteenth century castle overlooking the sea, only exacerbated the feeling. University Hall, like other halls of the University of Hong Kong (HKU), provided an excellent opportunity to meet other students. Most of the people I went out with were other foreigners, but its was also pretty easy to meet locals. Further, the nightlife proved to be a highly memorable experience. Hong Kong had its share of smoky pubs, high-class as well as lowclass clubs, and numerous other venues, enough that we could get kicked out of two a week and still have enough to last the semester ('Joe' from the Univ. of Pittsburgh was the expert on this data). Particularly interesting about the nightlife though was the diverse group of people you encounter, which include diplomats, barristers and solicitors, supermodels, or even Hong Kong's tycoons (Li Kai Shing strolled around town with an entourage of six heavily armed bodyguards; of course himself and the other tycoons are among the select few who need to bother with security in this virtually crime-free city). Some of this may sound trivial, but trust me in reality it provides a healthy break from Mass. Street's tailgate parties and hemp advocates.
Moving to a more academic evaluation I found HKU's facilities modern and just like those at KU they were all located on a steep hill. The campus itself was pretty dense with most classes being held in large towers, but at least one was held in an old and ornate colonial-era building, which even had remnants of Japan's invasion during WWII (bullet dents in the concrete). Teaching was pretty good and contains a mix of European and American styles. My professors all held PhD's from Western universities (virtually every course is taught using English) and their knowledge of the respective materials was extensive. Further my professors were quite sociable, inviting us brunches at their homes and even taking us to ex-pat clubs where we got to smoke cigars and drink alcoholic beverages as they lamented the restrictions placed on their American counterparts. If there was one qualm I had about campus (and certainly the public transport),
it was the air conditioning; despite the fact that I was in a sub-tropical environment with beaches and palm trees I learned to carry a sweater wherever I went. Throughout the city the AC seemed to be permanently set at 60 degrees (quite opposite problem at KU of course). At any rate, the university lived up to its reputation as one of the "top five in Asia."
In the end despite the fact that it set me a little off course from the "the four-year plan" (partially attributable to my own mismanagement), the only regret I had about my time in Hong Kong was that it was only a semester in length. Regardless, it was however possible to fit-in travel to several other Asian cities and at relatively low prices. This was particularly the case with mainland China where I made three visits, including one to Beijing (where the airport no longer resembles the Iowa Street WalMart). Each visit required a visa, but these are easily obtainable. Other opportunities for travel are available, such as in Bali (that place that's consistently on the cover of Travel & Leisure magazine), which could probably overshadow even the best Cancun packages. As for meeting other people, well, that's about as easy as it is on a train in Europe or in a dorm at KU during your freshman year; actually it's easier because you're even more of a minority in Asia. Better yet the people you are able to meet come not only from Asia, but from several other parts of the world including South Africa, Australia, Europe, and not to mention the world's superpower, the good old US of A. Ultimately Hong Kong was, to use an old cliche,"a melting pot," a "New York for Asia," or for those of you in the professional schools,"a gateway to China's 1.2 billion Mariboro consumers." I left this metropolis as I left most Asian cities feeling that I wouldn't recognize it on my next visit. Like Beijing or Shanghai, it had highly progressive character. The most visible manifestation of it may have been the 1000ft skyscrapers and spiffy bullet-train to the airport, but as any long term visit can prove it went further to include the people, who are a clear indicator of their region's future prominence.
James Leonard
Gaining a New Perspective
Once a stranger, I am now a sojourner. To walk the ancient streets, to peer into the small shops owned by families for generations, to wonder about the gods they worship, or to smell the mitsu being grilled over an open fire, I stood in awe of the mysteries of Kyoto Japan.
After being on the airplane for 14 hours and the 2 1/2 hour van ride from Kansai Airport in Osaka, we were met by bicycles ringing their bells to pass by and the buses and cars filling the streets of Kyoto, people emerged from everywhere and history surrounded us.
Arriving at our Ryokan, a traditional Japanese Inn, our street shoes were removed and we entered a new way of living. Spending a week here gave us a sense of the culture. We visited historical districts and sites to observe traditional architecture and ambience. Field trips to the shrines and temples gave us a sense of how art was developed in Japan and the contemporary artists we visited demonstrated the connection to the past expressing it differently in the 21st Century.
Three of the four weeks took us to the Kawashima Textile School near Kyoto. The school is famous for tapestries woven for royalty and large tapestry curtains for stage performances. Artist from the area taught Katazome, a rice-paste resist stencil for dyeing; Roketsu-zome, a wax resist technique for designing fabric; and Shifu, spinning and waving yarn, made from paper.
Our group of ten Textile majors and artist experienced the night life of Kyoto; ate authentic cuisine plus we were served Chicago style pizza once; shopped the many stores; experienced the local flea markets; attended a Geisha performance in the Gion district; and saw a famous Noh play. We visited Kimono factories; met with art students from three different Universities to observe how the Japanese system differs and
parallels our own and to network with Japanese art students. We rode the Bullet train to the world renowned Shibori Festival; and to relax we experienced the hot springs to ease the pain from walking so much.
Through the research and interviews with artists, my appreciation for the fine detailing in oriental textiles has increased and this knowledge has enhanced my appreciation for this simple but complete culture.
Bonita Hanni
Jayhawks Abroad
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