American Royal for years," he says, referring to the massive barbecue cook-off that is held in Kansas City every September. "But we're here nearly 24/7 we just don't have time."
It takes some deft juggling to take care of a restaurant and cover the barbecue competition circuit. Phil and Linda Hopkins have managed to make that tricky situation work. The Hopkins have
been competing since 1997 and opened their restaurant, Smokin' Guns, 1218 Swift Ave., about a year ago. Walking in the door of Smokin' Guns, the first thing you see is a corner crammed with trophies whose heights range from ankle to armpit. Ribbons and certificates cover the walls, and behind the cash register, in a position of honor, is the banner proclaiming the Hopkins' 1999 World
Championship title from the Jack Daniel's Invitational.
The menu at Smokin' Guns is stripped down to the barbecue basics: sandwiches, ribs, burnt ends, half and quarter chickens. But the minimalism masks the expert handle the Hopkins have on their food. Baby back rib meat begs to slide off the bone and into your mouth and the brisket is covered with a dry rub of spices that leave the burnt ends with a peppery crust and a smoky, red interior. The baked beans are thicker than most and have a delicious, meaty flavor. The coleslaw is cut thick, with a sweet and sour tang.
The Hopkins continue to take their show on the road, competing across the country against teams with names such as The Porkitects and Smoke a Fat One for cash prizes and bragging rights. But competition isn't so fierce that the different teams can't get along. Phil Hopkins says half the fun of barbecue competitions is hanging out with friends from the
circuit. In fact, Smokin' Guns employs some of its contest competitors to help out at the store. On the day I visited, Phil Morrow, whose competition team AM + PM Smokers regularly comes up against Smokin' Guns, was in the kitchen at the restaurant, trimming the briskets and patting an ample covering of secret spices onto the raw meat. The extra hands around the kitchen help the Hopkins maintain their hobby as well as their business.
Quick's, Laura's and Emmie's and Smokin' Guns are only a small number of the fabulous barbecue joints Kansas City has to offer. Gates and Bryant's are great, but there is no reason to get stuck in a rut when people like John Crawford of Laura's are waiting for you to put them to the test. "I dare 'em to compare Gates with us," Crawford says. "I dare 'em. I really do."
—Maggie Koerth, Jayplay writer, can be reached at mkoerth@kansan.com
thursday, September 25, 2003
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