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Once this concept is understood, you will be able to carry this approach over to many of our other suits and sport coats with the same assurance of correctness and good taste.
We have carried this concept to fit the lifestyles of college and business men alike whose attitudes reflect a concern about being appropriately dressed for the occasion.
With a more relaxed, free, open attitude, it is natural that the classics should evolve into a style of dress to fit our current lifestyles.
Now that we have presented our approach to today's dress, you may ask what rules apply in choosing one particular style over another, or what really is dressing in good taste?
Since we are traditional clothiers, there are certain classics which we have talked about that have been in a gentleman's wardrobe since man started dressing for a myriad of occasions.
These classics include, the navy and British tan suits, grey flannel suits, slacks, corduroy, herringbone, dengal and Harris Tweeds, along with certain sweaters that have been the staples of man's wardrobe for many years. These are tried and proven and have stood the test of time and outlived the 'trendy' items that a life of a season or two, never to be repeated.
Once you have acquired these basic wardrobe extenders', you can buy the extras, the things that are fun to buy, and things that will give your wardrobe a unique and personal flair.
There are, however, certain questions that must be asked about a new style. How does it "fit in" with other things you own and will wear with it? Is it unique and identifiable? Does it bear repeating enough to be a classic in its own right. Will it coordinate well without drawing conspicious attention to itself? The important thing to remember is not to look like your trying to be fashionably dressed.
An understated, moderate approach to fashion, is in better taste, and has more lasting qualities.
Because of the stabilization of styling, you can project what styles are likely to remain in fashion for a long period of time. Once you understand your clothing well enough to know what you have on is correct, is in good taste and worn properly, at this point you can forget about your clothes. This is one of the main things we like to accomplish to give a feeling of confidence.
And finally, during the years you are in college, you can acquire a wardrobe that is in very good taste, and that you can build on, and one that will serve well for many years to come.
Mister Guy's Glossary
In every profession there is a peculiar jargon or technical terminology that is used when talking about the mechanics of their association. The people in the clothing industry are no exception. In order to further your understanding of today's college fashions, the authors of this supplement have provided a glossary of terms commonly used by retail clothiers.
BELLOWS POCKETS - Pockets with folds or pleats to allow for expansion.
BARREL CUFF — Single button cuff.
BROADCLOTH — A closely woven lustrous cotton; very soft finish, yet strong. It is used for shirts and pajamas because of its strength.
BUTTON-DOWN COLLAR — The points of this collar are firmly held down to the body of the shirt by buttoning the tips of the collar tothe shirt. This collar style comes in various lengths.
CAMEL HAIR — Warm, lightweight, luxurious fabric from the hair of the Bactrian Camel of Asia.
CANVAS — Strong, firm, closely woven fabric usually made with cotton, hemp, or flax.
CHAMBRAY — Fine cloth of cotton, silk or linen. commonly of plain weave which has a mottled surface. The mottled surface is achieved by the use of a colored thread and white thread crossing each other during weaving.
CHAMOIS — Soft, pliable leather from any of various skins, dressed with oil.
CRICKET COLLAR - A short collar, derived from the English cricket shirt.
COLLAR PIN — Short metal bar or "safety pin" bar attached to tabs of a spread collar to hold them down and add decoration, or is used through the sewn eyelets on collar band.
D-RING — Side tabs of fabric with brass cinch rings which permit slight waist adjustment.
DUCK—A heavy, plain weave fabric for tents, clothing, bags, etc.
EXTENSION WAISTBAND — A continuation of the slack waistband beyond the fly with button closure.
FOULARD — A lightweight lustrous fabric, made with a two-up, two-down twill, commonly of silk construction and noted for its soft finish, generally printed with small designs on plain ground.
FLANNEL — A warm, soft, napped fabric of wool or wool blend.
FRENCH CUFF — Turned back or double cuff of a shirt with double buttonhole for cuff link.
GABARDINE — A durable, tightly woven wool or wool blend fabric having flat finish.
GAUGE — The fineness of a knitted fabric as expressed in loops per $1 \frac{1}{2} "$ . Also the thread count of a fabric per $1 \frac{1}{2} "$ HAND LASTED — Hand shaping of shoe leather on metal form.
INVERTED PLEAT—A reverse box pleat having the flat fold turned in.
JERSEY — Flat finish knit fabric.
MADRAS — A lightweight cotton fabric colored with vegetable dyes. Usually in plaids and solid colors, it is sometimes striped. Was first woven in Madras, India and used as a headress for sailors
MERINO — A very revered wool produced by Merino sheep, originally raised in Spain.
MOHAIR — A long lustrous hair obtained from the Angora of Asia Minor, durable and resilient.
OXFORD CLOTH — A group of cotton fabrics made with a plain or basket weave. It is the one remaining important shirting variety of four originally made by a Scottish mill which bore the names of four universities: Oxford, Cambridge, Harvard, and Yale.
PIMA COTTON - A variety of American-Egyptian cotton, first developed in 1910 in Pima County, Arizona, characterized by its lightweight and flat finish provide comfort.
PLACKET — Reinforced closure panel of a shirt.
POPLIN — Durable plain weave fabric, normally cotton or cotton blend.
POST BOY VEST — Vest with 2 lower flap pockets styled after those worn around the turn of the century by mail carriers.
QUARTER TOP POCKET — Front pockets that are inset approximately 1" from the sideseam to reduce stress on fabric and provide additional comfort.
RAGLAN SLEEVE — A sleeve that begins at the neck and
has a long slanting seam line from neck to armhole, giving the garment a relatively undefined shoulder and permitting free movement.
REGIMENTAL STRIPE — Block stripe tie getting its coloration and name from ancient British Regiments. Later these colors and names were taken by English universities, hence the name old school repp.
RIGGING CLOTH — Loose weave cotton or cotton blend similar to cloths used in sailmaking.
RUGBY COLLAR — Short cotton collar, derived from authentic rugby shirt, generally with matching inside placket.
SERGE — Flat finished wool or wool blend fabric characterized by a muted diagonal texture.
SHAKER KNIT — Heavy weight rib textured finish.
SINGLE NEEDLE TAILORING — Seams stitched first on the inside then on the outside giving a flatter reinforced seam.
SPREAD COLLAR—A spread collar is one that is spread quite a distance apart at the points of the collar when worn.
STRAIGHT LEG — Slack having same dimensions at knee and bottom.
TERRY CLOTH — A soft, loop pile cotton fabric, noted for its softness and ability to absorb moisture.
TICKET POCKET - Small pocket on right side of coat above regular pocket. Used in the early 30's for theatre tickets.
VELCRO — The trademark for a textile closure which depends on the adherence of hook-like nylon pile fabric to an opposing nylon pile, assuring a tight bond.
WELTING — An edge of fabric folded double, generally over a cord, and sewn down for added strength and durability.
WORSTED — Term generally applied to fabric woven from yarn that has been spun from combed wool.