12 Wednesday, August 18, 1976 University Daily Kansan "KU ON WHEELS" One-way Ride 25c Semester Bus Pass Exact Fare Only Only $18.00 (Non-student Pass $20.00) Bus Schedules and Routes for 1976-1977 Page 2 GATEHOUSE, 24TH AND RIDGECOURT ROUTE Leave Gatehouse to K.U. and Downtown On the hour 24th and Ridge Court to K.U. and Downtown 5 Minutes past hour 7:05 a.m. 10:45 p.m. 19th and Naismith to K.U. and Downtown 10 Minutes past hour Union Bldg. to Downtown 20 Minutes past hour 7: 10 a.m. to 8: 30 p.m. 9th and Mass, to K.U. and 34th Ridge Court 30 Minutes past hour Union Bldg. to 24th Ridge Court; Gatehouse via Malis Shopping Center 35 minutes past hour 23rd Street and Louisiana to Campus and Downtown 58 Minutes past hour 7:35 a.m. to 10:35 p.m. 19th Naismith to Ridge Court, Gatehouse 45 Minutes past hour 50 Minutes past hour 6:50 a.m. to 5:50 p.m. FRONTIER RIDGE EXPRESS Trailridge to Campus 20 minutes past the hour 7:20 a.m. to 5:20 p.m. Frontier Ridge to Campus 30 minutes past the hour 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Union to Frontier Ridge and Trailridge 15 minutes past the hour 8:15 a.m. to 5:15 p.m. SEE GATEHOUSE, 24th & Ridge Court Route for continuation of Route Continued from Page 1. Once this concept is understood, you will be able to carry this approach over to many of our other suits and sport coats with the same assurance of correctness and good taste. We have carried this concept to fit the lifestyles of college and business men alike whose attitudes reflect a concern about being appropriately dressed for the occasion. *run a more relaxed, free, open attitude, it is natural that the classics should evolve into a style of dress to fit* Now that we have presented our approach to today's dress, you may ask what rules apply in choosing one particular style over another, or what really is dressing in good taste'. Since we are traditional clothiers, there are certain classics which we have talked about that have been in a gentleman's wardrobe since man started dressing for a mavrid of occasions. These classics include, the navy and British tan suits, grey flannel suits, slacks, corduroy, herringbone, dongel and Harris Tweeds, along with certain sweaters that have been the stairs of man's wardrobe for many years. These are tired and proven and have stood the test of time and wear in some formulas that a life of a season or two, never to be repeated. Once you have acquired these basic 'wardrobe extenders', you can buy the extras, the things that are fun to buy, and things that will give your wardrobe a unique and personal flair. "There are, however, certain questions that must be asked about a new style. How does it "it in" with other things you own and will wear when repeating enough to be a classic in its own right. Will it coordinate well without drawing conspicuous attention to itself? The important thing to remember is not to look like your trying to be "classic." An understated, moderate approach to fashion, is in better taste, and has more lasting qualities. Because of the stabilization of styling, you can project what styles are likely to remain in fashion for a long period of time. Once you understand your clothing well enough to know what you have on is correct, is in good shape and is not faded or stained, you can forget about your clothes. This is one of the main things we like to accomplish to give a feeling of confidence. And finally, during the years you are in college, you can acquire a wardrobe that is in very good taste, and that you can build on, and one that will serve well for many years to come. Mister Guy's Glossary In every profession there is a peculiar jargon or technical terminology that is used when talking about the mechanics of their association. The people in the clothing industry are no exception. In order to further your understanding of how they dress, the authors of this supplement have provided a glossary of terms commonly used by retail clothiers. BARREL CUFF — Single button cuff. BELLLOWS POCKETS — Pockets with foul or pleats to allow for expansion. BROADCLOTH — A Losely woven lustrous cotton; very soft (firm, yet strong). It is used for shirts and pajamas BUTTON-DOWN COLLAR — The points of this collar are firmly held down to the body of the shirt by buttoning the tips of the collar tothe shirt. This collar style comes in various lengths. CAMEL HAIR — Warm, lightweight, luxurious fabric from the hair of the Bactrian Camel of Asia. CHAMBRAY — Fine cloth of cotton, silk or linen, common of plain weave which has a mottled surface. The mottled surface is achieved by the use of a colored thread and white thread crossing each other during CANVAS — Strong, firm, closely woven fabric usually made with cotton, hemp, or flax. CRICKET COLLAR — A short collar, derived from the English crippled shirt. COLLAR PIN — Short metal bar or "safety pin" bar attached to tabs of a spread collar to hold them down and add decoration, or is used through the sewn eyelets on collar band. CHIAOIS — Soft, pliable leather from any of various skins, dressed with oil. D-RING - Side tabs of fabric with brass circh rings which permit slight waist adjustment. DUCK—A heavy, plain weave fabric for tents, clothing, bags, etc. EXTENSION WAISTBAND — A continuation of the slack waistband beyond the fiv with button closure. FOULARD A ~ lightweight lustrous fabric, made with a two-up, two-down twill, commonly of silk construction and noted for its soft finish, generally printed with small designs on plain ground. FLANELN — A warm, soft, napped fabric of wool or wool blend. FRENCH CUFF — Turned back or double cuff of a shirt with double buttonhole for cuff link. GABARDINE — A durable, tightly woven wool or wool blend fabric having flat finish. GAUGE — The fineness of a knitted fabrāe as expressed in loops per 1½". Also the thread count of a fabric per 1½". HAND LASTED — Hand shaping of leather on metal form. INVERTED PLEAT — A reverse box plait having the flat fold turned in. JERSEY — Flat finish knit fabric. MADRAS — A lightweight cotton fabric colored with vegetable dyes. Usually in plains and solid colors, it is sometimes striped. Was first woven in Madras, India and used as a headress for sailors. MERINO — A very revered wool produced by Merino sheep, originally raised in Spain. MOHMR - A long lustrous hair obtained from the Angora coat of Asia Minor, durable and resilient. OXFORD CLOTH—A group of cotton fabrics made with a plain or basket weave. It is the one remaining important shirting variety four originally made by a Scottish milt which boots in universities' Oxford, Harvard, and Yale. PIMA COTTON — A variety of American-Egyptian cotton, first developed in 1910 in Pima County, Arizona, characterized by its lightweight and flat finish provide comfort. PLACKET — Reinforced closure panel of a shirt. RAGLAN SLEEVE — A sleeve that begins at the neck and POPLIN - Durable plain weave fabric, normally cotton or cotton blend. QUARTER TOP POCKET> - Front pockets that are inset approximately 1½" from the sidedeem to reduce airress on top of the pocket. POST ROY VEST - Vest with 2 lower flap pockets styled after those worn around the turn of the calendar by mail a tung slanting seam line from neck to armbore, giving the garment a relatively undefined shoulder and permit- REGIMENTAL STRIPE — Block stripe tie getting its coloration and name from ancient British Regiments. Later these colors and names were taken by English universities, hence the name old school repp. RIGGING CLOTH — Loose weave cotton or cotton blend similar to cloths used in sainting. RUGBY COLLAR – Short cotton collar, derived from authentic rugby shirt, generally with match inside characterized by a marbled diagonal texture SHAKER KNIT - Heavy weight rib textured finish SERGE — Flat finished wool or wool blend fabric characterized by a muted diagonal texture. SINGLE NEEDLE TAILORING — Seams stitched first on the inside then on the outside giving a flatter reinforced look. SPREAD COLLAR - A spread collar is one that spits wide at a distance apart at the point of the collar when it closes. STRAIGHT LEG — Slack having same dimensions at knee and bottom TERRY CLOTH - A soft, loop pile cotton fabric, noted for its softness and ability to absorb moisture. TICKET POCKET - Small pocket on side of coat above regular pocket. Used in the early 80s for theatre VELCRO — The trademark for a textile closure which depends on the adherence of hook-like nylon fabric to a lace-like base. WELTING — An edge of fabric folded double, generally over a cord, and sewn down for added strength and durability. WORSTED — Term generally applied to fabric woven from yarn that has been spun from combed wool.