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Premiering at Liberty Hall in November, Porubsky's: Transcendent Deli, a new documentary about Topeka's last small grocery, uses the talents of local artists to tell the story of one vital Kansas landmark. // SARAH BLUVAS
A standout Topeka staple: A film featuring Porubsky's, said to be the last neighborhood grocery in Topeka, aims to "show that Kansas isn't just a place you fly over," says Leah Sewell, filmmaker Matt Porubsky's wife. The film shows the family and neighborhood history rooted in the Topeka landmark.
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I've never visited the legendary C.W. Porubsky's Deli and Tavern in Topeka's "Little Russia" neighborhood before, but as I walk through the creaky screen door for the first time, I feel the same way newcomers and long-time patrons alike feel when they walk in: comfortable. It could be the few men crowded at the end of the bar, watching college football on a tiny television set. Maybe it's the chatty woman — who I soon find out is a Porubsky herself — seated in the booth in front of me who, upon hearing that this is my first trip to Topeka, invites me to her table and lets me in on some of the family secrets.
Known for its chili, hot pickles and cold-cut sandwiches, Porubsky's first opened in 1947 and has survived floods and fires to become the only neighborhood grocery left in Topeka. Yet, as Matt Porubsky, KU graduate and grandson of the original owners, says, Porubsky's is special for more than just cool cuts and resilience to disasters. Instead, it's the inexplicable feeling that people get when they step through the door that prompted Porubsky to make Porubsky's Transcendent Deli, a documentary film that will be released in Topeka and Lawrence in November.
Following the 2008 death of his grandmother Lydia, who opened the grocery and tavern with her husband Charlie, Matt Porubsky began to question whether the deli would stay in the family without his grandparents. Always fascinated by the familiar faces and stories found in the deli, Porubsky also wondered why people kept coming back. "There's an appreciation for what this place is, what it stands for, what it stood for," Porubsky says. And he intended to find out why.
One inquiry led to another, and Porubsky soon met David Kitchner, KU graduate and codirector from Gizmo Pictures, the Topeka-based production company releasing the film. With support from the Kansas Humanities Council and the Center for Kansas Studies at Washburn University, Porubsky and crew conducted countless interviews and watched hours of pickle-eating footage. One member of the Porubsky clan, for instance, recalls the deli "honor system," noting how Charlie and Lydia never wrote down orders, instead relying on customers to remind them what they had when it came time to pay.
Patrons abided by this system because, "If you screw Charlie Porubsky, you ain't no good."
me of old photos of my great-grandfather's bar in Omaha. Bruce Harrington, the judge-turned-bartender who has held down the Porubsky's bar for decades, has the same husky voice and sense of humor as my uncle Don. Porubsky's has a story for everyone, even me.
The documentary, though, is as much about Topeka as it is about the deli. Using local talent, the filmmakers hope to showcase the local grassroots arts community that few people outside of Topeka often notice. "There's some serious talent working on this film," says Leah Sewell, Porubsky's wife, who co-wrote and researched the film. "We want to show that Kansas isn't just a place you fly over." Justin Marable and Sam Billen, both Topeka artists and KU graduates, contributed their talents to the film as well. Marable, whose wife Bailey was tricked into trying the Porubsky's chili for the first time on camera, provided nostalgic artwork for the film. Billen and his brother Dan recorded the quirky, Russian-influenced music for the soundtrack.
Sitting in Porubsky's for more than two hours, I listen to Matt Porubsky's family and friends talk about a place that means so much to them and begin to see why it means something to me. The worn-in barstools and neon beer signs remind
To hear some of these stories and find your own, watch the premiere of Porubskys: Transcendent Deli at 7 p.m. Nov. 17 at Liberty Hall, 644 Massachusetts St. Admission is free because, according to the filmmakers, Porubskys has always been for the people. Donations, however, are greatly appreciated. JP
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Transcendent chili! Porubsky's, a small deli, restaurant and bar in Tepeka's "Little Russia" neighborhood, is the subject of a new film premiering at Liberty Hall in November and is famous for its homemade chili.
You'll definitely be tempted to head to Porubsky's, located at 508 NE Sardou Ave. in Topeka's "Little Russia" neighborhood, after seeing Matt Porubsky's film. Not sure what to order for lunch for the first time? Try one of these house favorites:
GOLD CUT PLATE. Basically a mini sandwich buffet, the cold cut plate comes with a selection of meats and cheeses, hot pickles and several slices of bread so you can design your own Porubsky's creation. Have the bartender grab you a beer from the cooler and you're all set.
CHILI. Porubsky's chili still uses the original recipe — and probably the original chili pot. But if you have a hankering for a hot bowl of chili on a Friday or Saturday, you're out of luck. Lydia Porubsky never served chili on the weekends, and the tradition still sticks.
HOT PICKLES. I'm not a fan of pickles, but even I liked these. Sure; they're so hot that Porubsky's can't send shipments to customers for fear of the jars breaking and releasing hot fumes into the back of delivery trucks. But once you get over the shock, you're left with a tangy aftertaste and not a hint of heat. Chase with a slice of bread if you must.
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