KANSAN.COM ART5 & CULTURE 8 + Professor explores Japanese cuisine in new book W with an interest in the intimacy of food culture ▶ OMAR SANCHEZ @OhMySanchez and how that reflects society, professor and Japanese historian Eric C. Rath goes on an in-depth exploration that combines archival records and on-the-ground field work in his recently published book, titled "Japan's Cuisines: Food, Place and Identity." "When we go eat Japanese food in America, we have a very limited menu. We have sushi, the tempura and things like that. Those come to mean Japanese food for us," Rath said. "One of the purposes of my book is to say, well that is a very limited view of Japanese cuisine." "Japan's Cuisines" is the latest in Rath's published works looking to challenge the monolithic view of Japanese food culture through its cuisine. Previous books of his include 2010's "Food and Fantasy in Early Modern Japan." This time around, Rath looks into the way the Japanese government has projected a particular view of its cuisine. This includes its recent effort to add Washoku, as it is commonly referred as, to UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list. While this list is a part of UNESCO's goal of highlighting world practices that are of cultural significance, there are questions about the Japanese government's motivation to work with UNESCO. CNN has described UNESCO as a "UN body in charge of preserving culture and history." However, in the case of the Intangible Cultural Heritage list, there may be efforts to cement an image of a culture that isn't indicative of the reality. When we go eat Japanese food in America, we have a very limited menu. We have sushi, the tempura and things like that. Those come to mean Japanese food for us. One of the purposes of my book is to say, well that is a very limited view of Japanese cuisine." Eric C. Rath Professor and Japanese historian "It's a way to project what they call 'Cool Japan' globally," Rath said. "Japanese cuisine is a part of that. The food is perceived as hip and cool, healthy." "Cool Japan" is a term referring to Japan's consistent effort, detailed in the global magazine Foreign Policy, to reinvent the nation's conventional appearance. In terms of its cuisine, this means concerns of Japan's food & safety regulations are possibly wrongly mitigated and other aspects of Japan's food culture are lost in the process. Rath said this includes things like its take on the French cuisine found predominantly in Tokyo. "You can find the best French cuisine there that you can in any other place of the world," he said. In his new book, Rath looked to uncover this dimensionality. This included, Rath said, going into often obscure, mountainous areas of Japan to find out what their relationship to food was like. Eve Levin, professor and chairwoman of the history department, said this level of study of the Japanese cuisine can profoundly educate the American community. "I especially appreciate his ability to show how aspects of ordinary life — food in this case — are extraordinarily revealing of larger issues of social status and political ideas," she said. Levin added: "Americans might never go to Japan, never read anything translated from Japanese, never study the history of Japan, but still frequent Japanese restaurants. But because we all eat, we all innately share a common base of mutual understanding, so food provides an accessible entryway into another culture." Don't Text. #JustDrive Let's WIN! Text KU to 50555 to take the pledge to never text and drive. PLEDGE YOUR COMMITMENT TO THE JAYHAWK FAMILY The Kansas Insurance Commissioner is challenging all university students; faculty and alumni across the state to take the pledge to "don't text, just drive." Help KU win the challenge! 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