To all the java junkies: There's no such thing as "just a cup of coffee."
By Robert Riley, Jayplay writer
The thick, black espresso seeps from the sterile machine, culminating in a perfect shot. A frothy tan crema forms at the top, as the rest of the creamy, brown foam swirls its way upward like a tiny pint of Guinness. I slip the shot into a dimpled Styrofoam cup, and gingerly pour steamed two-percent milk into the fragrant espresso. I'm careful not to disturb the steadily rising layer of micro-foam that is my canvas. I use the ultra-fine foam, or "white chrome," I hold back from the steamed milk to pour three gleaming white parallel lines onto the crema. Tracing the lines with a coffee stirrer to lengthen them, I drag the stirrer perpendicularly though the lines to form a wispy grid. Beaming with pride, I slid the embellished libation to its new owner. The customer dashs my artwork with sugar and snaps the lid on without a glance before rushing off. This is one memory from the six months I spent as a barista at The Community Mercantile, 901 Iowa St.
Kate von Achen, Lawrence senior, says there are a lot of components involved in making espresso drinks. Von Achen, who currently works at the Bourgeois' Pig, 6 E. Ninth St., has been a barista at various coffee shops in Lawrence for 10 years. She says it takes timing, motion and temperature control to ensure that coffee tastes the way it should. She says that when pulling a shot of espresso, only pour for 24 seconds, never let it sit for longer than 10. She warns never to pre-grind any coffee, because it loses its freshness when the air gets in, and the oils in the coffee could become rancid. Milk should be steamed at 150 to 160 degrees, and the steam wand should create a swirling motion with the milk. She says the swirling motion keeps the bubbles small, and heats the milk evenly to avoid scorching.
There are coffee-addicts who purchase their fix without noticing the effort that goes into making a fine espresso drink. Yet a barista —the man or woman who makes your favorite latte, cappuccino or specialty coffee drink—operates somewhere between the realm of art and science.
As a patron orders a latte, von Achen
talks to me while she creates the beverage. She says making lattes is her favorite, because of the foam art. "I like to make hearts, but sometimes they look like butts," she says smiling. "I can also draw certain parts of the female anatomy."
A man seated at the end of the bar interjects that baristas are a different breed of cats for sure. The voice belongs to Curt Melzer, owner of Vagabond Cafe in Wichita, and Harbour Lights, 1031 Massachusetts St., in downtown Lawrence. It's definitely different than bartending, Melzer says. He said he has hired a lot of bartenders, but it's harder to find a skilled barista. He says that a good barista is essential to a good coffee shop, because the personality of your baristas can make or break your business. Melzer says coffee shop customers are unique as well. Regular coffee shop goers appreciate the extra
effort, and the less knowledgeable customers wonder why it takes so long to make a couple of drinks, Melzer says.
Von Achen says making espresso drinks is definitely a skill, and not every place will train you well. She says working at Z's Divine Espresso East, 1800 E. $23^{rd}$ St., for four years was a blessing, and that the owner, Mark Zwahl, trained her well. I decide to go to Z's to see first hand if good training makes a good barista. Suzy Mosher, Lawrence sophomore, peaks out from behind rows of percolators, and stacks of coffee cups. Mosher has been a barista at Z's for two years, and says she loves her job. "I think it's really fun, and I'm glad to represent the company I work for," she says. "I think that it shows in my care for the drinks and in my attitude toward the customers." Mosher says that she likes to make breves the most, because
she can make the milk look so pretty. She says that foam art is also one of her passions, and an elephant is her specialty. "Our boss is very picky about coffee," Mosher says. "We have a guarantee that if you don't like your drink, then we will make it again until you do."
Henry's, 11 E. Eight St., was the next stop on my coffee quest, and my mission was to find an avid espresso connoisseur. John Huff, Lawrence resident, says he only drinks lattes. Huff says people don't think about a barista making the shot and the milk just right. "It's really disappointing when someone doesn't know what he or she is doing," Huff says. "I can't see why anyone would go to a push button place like Starbucks." Huff says Starbucks is a dirty word around most coffee shops. Longing to know what the employees at Starbucks think about being a barista, I went to a Starbucks for the first time in 22 years. Unfortunately, the manager on duty informs me that corporate policy prevents any employees from speaking with members of the press.
Still wanting to find out more about what makes baristas tick, I speak to Jeff Taylor, professional coffee roaster and three-time judge of the World Barista Competition. Taylor a barista's passion is one of the most important things he looks for in judging espresso. He says that judges usually evaluate two separate aspects of the espresso. The first is the taste of the coffee. The espresso should have a good balance of acidity, sweetness, and bitterness. The second is the tactile feel of the coffee. Taylor says it's the nuances on the tongue and cheeks that reveal the depth of the espresso. The characteristics he looks for in a great barista are artistic nature, creativity, a thirst for knowledge and attention to detail. "A barista can never stop learning about coffee," he says.
Coffee drinkers shouldn't be afraid to learn about the barista's craft. Next time you order your morning latte, breve, mocha, cappuccino, americana or whatever, don't be afraid to count the seconds on your shot. Remember that baristas are not just caffeine jockeys. Baristas are artists, maybe even scientists in their own right. They do whatever it takes to make sure your espresso drink is an experience, and not "just a cup of coffee."
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Jayplay 9.23.04