--- feature JAYPLAY = 09.13.2007 PHOTO BY SARAH LEONARD **Above:** Ben Almquist, Overland Park senior, sniffs a portion of the gummy grape pulp that is an essential in his class's wood. Wood chips, yeast, grape juice and water also play their part in the process. LOCAL FLAVOR Kansas is now home to more than a dozen wineries, one of them in Lawrence's backyard. Tony and Kay Kugler run Kugler's Vineyard just a few miles south of Lawrence. After Tony gets off work at Allen Press and Kay ends her day as a programmer at the University's Information Technology department, they tend their 1,200 grape vines. If you're surprised to learn that the Kuglers can grow grapes in the same summer that has the University's grass a crispy brown, you'll be astounded to know that they only irritate the vines once or twice per year. Tony says that when they planted their vineyard in 1996 they had to pick vines that would survive Kansas' sizzling summers and freezing winters. "Those wines that grow in California, they cannot grow here," Tony says. The five grape varieties that do grow at Kugler's Vineyard produced six tons of grapes last year. After the mid-August and September grape harvest, Tony says he and Kay ferment about 3,000 bottles of wine per year in the climate-controlled wine cellar beneath their house. One of the seven types of wine the Kuglers market, both at Lawrence's Mass Beverage, 3131A Neider Rd., and from at-home sales, won a bronze medal at St. Louis' National Norton Wine Competition in August. With wine selling from about $10 to$ 12, the Kuglers remind that you shouldn't buy wine simply because of a flashy label or high price. "That's for snobs. It's all about the flavor,"Tony says. WALLET WINE If you ready to take a sip out of your beverage cocoon, the rows of bottles at any liquor store may still be daunting. You can make your wine purchase more approachable by finding a vendor with some wine smarts. Steve Berger, owner of The Wine Cellar on the corner of Iowa and $25^{\mathrm{th}}$ streets, is a certified sommelier, a professional that can help you choose the right wine. Berger says that he would typically start a wine beginner off with a white wine with a little bit of sweetness, perhaps a Riesling, and then suggest something dryer, or less sweet. If you know you like dry wines, you might try a Chardonnay, which is among the driest wines. Though white wines vary widely between sweet and dry, red wines are almost always dry. If you go red, try a Pinot Noir, then may be a Merlot. Whatever wine you choose, be it a $2.99 jug,$ 6 box or $1,000 bottle, remember: It's what's on the inside that counts. "You don't have to spend $50 to get a good wine," Berger says. "You spend what you want, and if you're happy, perfect." WINE TASTING IN LAWRENCE Boozefish Wine Bar 1511 Westport Rd., Kansas City, Mo. Four samples with appetizers for $15 Every Wednesday from 6 to 8 p.m. EBT Restaurant 1310 Carondelet Dr., Kansas City, Mo. or 6 samples, hors-d'oeuvres and Jazz for $15 Every Thursday from 6 to 8 p.m. Gomer's (beverage retailer) 9900 Holmes Rd., Kansas City, Mo. Various samples, FREE Every Saturday from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. Pachamama's 800 New Hampshire St. Lawrence 4 to 6 samples and hors- de'oeuvres for $25 to$ 35 Every Friday from 6 to 8 p.m. Quinton's Bar & Deli 615 Massachusetts St. Lawrence 5 samples and a glass of your favorite for $12 First and third Thursdays monthly New Hampshire St. Bistro 811 New Hampshire St. Lawrence 5 or 6 samples and a glass of your favorite for $10 to$ 15 Various times, visit www. newhampshirest bistro.com The Eldridge Hotel The Eldridge Hotel 701 Massachusetts St. Lawrence 5 samples paired with hors- d'eouevres for $25 Sept. 18, 7 to 9 p.m. and monthly at various times We've Got Lawrence Covered. World Famous Pizza, Burgers & Beer You're not around for 54 years unless you have something amazing to offer. 843-0704 • jbstouts.com 721 Wakarusa Taco Bar: Every Monday $6.95 • 4pm Wing Night: every Wednesday 35¢ wings Omelet Bar: every Sunday$ 6.95 312-9057 • mariscosonline.com 6th & Wakarusa Serving Breakfast: 7 days a week·7-11am Wednesdays: $2.50 margaritas Thursdays: $2.50 martinis & cosmos