University Dailv Kansan / Wednesdav. Mav 1. 1991
5B
Live seafood hooks diners
The Associated Press
TOKYO — The latest in food rages in Japan is to eat seafood live — founder that flap around on the plate, finger-length eel swallowed raw. And remember, if the shrimp don't dance, send them back.
"The food moves around a lot that's the whole idea," said Sama Uehara, a chef at Chunagon, a well-known seafood restaurant in Ginza, one of Tokyo's most expensive night-spots.
Shrimp, flounder, eel and lobster are by no means the only energetic entrees on the trend restaurants' menu. Other attractions include firely squid, loaches, sea bream and young yellowtail.
Waiters bring the fish in wiggling with their eyes and mouths moving, then quickly slice open the midseed and git it. Like suki or sashimi, the slices are dipped in a mixture of soy sauce and horseradish.
Shrimp are featured in a dish called "dance." and are expected to
do just that.
Although some Japanese express misgivings about eating live food, it is a concept that fits in easily with the emphasis on freshness and natural presentation upon which Japanese gastronomy is based.
"My 7-year-old daughter likes them, too." he said. "But beeals are kind of grass. I had them in my beer one time. Too many little bones."
Toshio Fuji, an X-ray technician from a stretch of Japan's western coast where discerning seafood eaters are the rule, said he preferred to eat his fish live because he liked his food fresh.
The recent resurgence in the popularity of eating live food in Japan, practiced for centuries by hungry Japanese fishermen, is part of a growing trend that has transformed Japan's ever-growing economy, according to one industry official.
"People have more money to spend on food and are looking for better-"
"fitting."
Tatsu Saegaus, representative for the Japan Food Service Association. "The rediscovery of live fish and shrimp is definitely part of that."
Live fish tend to be expensive. Lobster courses at Chunagon range from a basic $44 meal to the top-of-the-line $120 dinner
"The expense just makes it all the more appealing." said Fujii. "The more it costs, the better we expect it to taste."
A representative for the Japan Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals said the group did not consider the practice to be cruel.
"Eating live fish is part of our unique Japanese culinary culture," said the representative, who requested anonymity.
"Westerners eat dead fish, we eat them live. It's just a cultural thing." he said. "We are not being cruel, we want to have the best-fasting fish. If you don't mind simply for show, like for TV, we would be very much against that."
Strippers reunite, talk shop
The Associated Press
HELENDALE, Calif. — The Smithsonian may have Archie Bunker's chair, but the Strippers Hall of Fame displays the silver, sequined pasties worn by Jenny "The Bazoon Girl" Lee.
It also boasts Jayne Mansfield's pink sofa and Blaze Starr's nude autographed photo.
It's all on display at the museum operated by 65-year-old Dixie Evans, the self-described "Marilyn Monroe of Burlesque."
This weekend, strippers past and present who belong to the 500-strong Exotic Dancers League of America arrived in Helendale, well off the beaten path in the Mojave Desert 80 miles northwest of Angeles, to talk shop and drop troops.
The gathering attracted names that used to drive men wild: Dusty Sage, Sheri Champagne, Jeanne "Eye-Full Tower" France, Flame O'Neil, and Tanayo, the "Costa Rican Dream Girl."
Some of them are grandmothers now, but they squeezed into sleeveless gold lame dresses and skimpy pink bras.
And over fried chicken and
macaroni salad, they talked about the good old days, when stripping was more show businesses than just show and the final flash of flesh only came after an excruciatingly long hump-and-grind buildup.
Some of them put on a brief show Friday on a stage at the end of a pool behind the museum, strutting to a tape recording of the "The Stripper."
Although the kicks were not quite as elastic and the flesh shook a bit more than it used to, they ended the fight with their hearty applause and a few whistles.
"I loved to dance," said a buster-clad Tanayo, who really was born in Costa Rica and danced in American clubs from 1959 until 1980.
"I loved the attention the customers gave me," she said. "I loved the smiles. I loved the applause."
Sage, wearing an abbreviated black-and-white maid costume and black stockings, said she got a relatively late start in striptease, taking to the stage for the first time at age 24 in 1965.
"They had to drag me off the stage," she said. "It was fun."
"I wanted to leave while my body was still good." she said.
The blond, boa-bedecked Evans, who will strike a sultry, lip-puckered drop of a hat, over the museum at Lee, the died of cancer last year.
She said the reunion brought back many good memories. That was much of the idea behind the event, said Evans.
The museum sits on a 40-acre ranch. The grounds are decorated with partially-clad statues, including one of Lee. The "Bazoom Girl" is everywhere in the museum, and her ashes are kept in a room off the pool.
From the walls hang photos of Gypsy Rose Lee, Candy Barger, Tempest Storm, Lilly Christine, and Brandy Wilson. Illustrated as Miss Nelson, Wisconsin 1889.
But after nine years, Sage retired.
Across a courtyard, in another room, are the pasties used by Lee, plus Evans, old red sparkling dress, and Jane, a stone jewelry and lots more pictures.
"We're trying to protect our past," said Evans. "It was a glamorous, glamorous era. It was the theater, that's where it happened." He proved or disapproved, we existed.
Ryan Palm
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