REVIEW
restaurant review // TENTH STREET the taste of the town. one meal at a time. VEGETARIAN BISTRO
If you're like me, when you think vegetarian, you think light, bland, puny and self-righteous. But I can say the Tenth Street Vegetarian Bistro set me straight. With its menu at the forefront, the unassuming bistro, at 125 E. 10th St., breaks down those preconceived notions of meat-free as it covers French, American, Italian — and more boldly — vegan oriental cuisine. Partly as a personal test, this was the area I chose from. I had the sweet and sour tofu. Or rather, it had me.
I have grown to avoid “sweet and sour” dishes because it usually means a thick, almost grainy syrup smothering deep-fried animal innards. But here, I gave sweet and sour a shot and was pleasantly surprised with what I got: A fresh, colorful dish with lots of veggies and fruits. The thing that put the sweet in the sour was a purre of apples, pears, peaches, pineapples, and even bananas. Don't freak out — you don't taste any one specifically. Also hanging on my plate were Asian favorites broccoli, celery and peanuts for a nice crunch. The whole thing was topped off with squishy tofu and tempeh wedges with asparagus. The specs of the dish sound like a circus, and it was. But it's a cohesive one. The bed of rice
common denominating it all leaves you with such a round, warm taste you'd swear there was butter.
The best part? The food gives you a wholesome, clean-feeling, full stomach, rather than the typical full feeling (as if you've slurped from a toxic waste barrel, in the case of standard sweet and sour dishes).
Inside the bistro, the ceiling fans, packaged candles and framed pictures give the comfort of your mother's living room.
Be sure to catch the specials written by the sidewalk. The price of most items ranges from $7 to $15.
✩✩// JACOB MUSELMANN
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785.865.5775
918 Mississippi • Across from Cork & Barrel.
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