REVIEW
restaurant review // ESQUINA
the taste of the town. one meal at a time.
Esquina. 801 Massachusetts St., lives up to all the hype as the Burger Stand's new, Mexican-themed off-chute.
Its feature is tacos — seven soft bombshells that each channel "fresh" in their own way. The pork and pineapple one has a taste that is straight from the Burger Stand, 623 Vermont St. The fish taco frequently changes. My edition had Walu with a Thai-flavored sauce, as if it was from Zen Zero. And a few of them are sprinkled with chopped almonds, giving each bite a subtle snap.
The chips are salty and the queso, considering its menu description, was surprisingly tame both in spiciness and flavor. But then again, there ain't nothing wrong with classic
The establishment, which opened last weekend, has received a facelift from its days as the building's previous entity. Roundcorner Drug Store. It feels reminiscent Ingredient, 947 Massachusetts St., inside with all the windows and low booths, but it has more color. Make of that what you will, but personally, I prefer to have the option of a semi-enclosed area, especially when everything I am eating is dripping from the other end.
queso — it's what many people depend on in Mexican restaurants.
When I first saw the menu I feared the tacos would be tiny, but I was pleasantly surprises. They are affordable and substantial. The service is also excellent, and after the order-and-pay jig at the beginning, they don't want you getting up for anything else. All in all, Esquina successfully replaces the Cheese Shop as downtown's go-to place to get quality food, fast.
★ ★ ★ // JACOB MUSELMANN
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1200 Oread Ave. 785-843-1200
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03 14
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DOORS OPEN 9PM