SITTING ON THE DOCK OF THE BAY
The Jerkwater Grille offers great views, food and value and did we mention it floats?
Photos: Jeff Brandsted
By Lauren Bristow, Jayplay writer
Dirty, murky water. Scary lake people. A mediocre beach. Throw away all of your preconceived notions about Clinton Lake because there lies Lawrence's own floating restaurant — The Jerkwater Grill. Make plans to head out to Clinton Lake State Park — you'll be pleasantly surprised at what you'll find.
Nestled in a green, tree-lined cove, The Jerkwater Grill, part of the Clinton Marina, floats atop waters of Clinton Lake. The restaurant is truly floating, says owner Jan Willey. "When it's really windy and the lake is really moving, the restaurant moves with the water," she says. Willey, a retired school teacher, has been cooking up self-described "lake food" for the past five years. Willey's daughter, Megan Hiebert, purchased the marina in 1999 and gave her mother the
existing restaurant space to operate. Willey had never cooked professionally although she says she has always enjoyed cooking. With a little trial and error, Willey has managed to create a local favorite that keeps customers and employees returning summer after summer.
Patrons are offered a panoramic view of the marina, lake and surrounding hillside from both the restaurant's main dining room and its floating patio. Buoys, nets and other nautical-themed items cover the dining room's blue and yellow walls. The restaurant's mismatched chairs and two recycled booths from Hy-Vee's food court
only add to its homestyle, laid-back charm. On a trip to the Lake of the Ozarks several years ago, Willey visited a restaurant that covered its bar's ceiling with wine corks. With the help of marina slip holders and friends from Kansas City, Willey collected and glued hundreds-if not thousands-of corks to boards that adorn one of the restaurant's walls. The cork creation was originally intended to cover The Jerkwater's ceiling. "We were afraid to screw it into the ceiling for fear the rocking of the marina would loosen the screws and cause (the boards) to fall-hurting someone," she says.
Used as a storage area for the marina during the winter, the Jerkwater springs to life Memorial Day weekend and is open every Friday evening, Saturday and Sunday until Labor Day. Regulars enjoy live music each weekend, and Hiebert says she's booked enough acts this year to entertain all summer long. The restaurant's entrance is located inside the marina's convenience store-type shop.
And while the view and laid-back atmosphere are undoubtedly big draws, the Jerkwater's no-nonsense food keeps patrons returning. "We're probably serving everything you shouldn't eat," Willey jokes when describing the menu. Hungry lakegoers can begin their meal with a variety of appetizers including fried dill pickles, one of Willey's favorites. A spicy ranch dipping sauce accompanies the fried condiment and provides the tastebuds with a sour and spicy treat. The menu boasts a variety of sandwich baskets that are served with french fries or cole slaw.
Hamburgers and huge pork tenderloin sandwiches are customer favorites, as is the Jerkwater chicken sandwich, a spicy creation served with coleslaw, says Ben Listner, former Jerkwater employee and December graduate. Listner, a two summer Jerkwater veteran, urges guests to leave room for dessert. "Jan makes this great hot
apple crisp with cinnamon ice cream," says Listner. "That stuff is so good, it makes me want to drive from Chicago just to get some." The Jerkwater also serves dinner specials ranging from fried catfish to pot roast and has a $6.95 breakfast buffet on Saturdays and Sundays featuring biscuits and cream gravy, sausage, eggs, hashbrowns and much more. The average sandwich and fries will run you about $6.25.
Since the Jerkwater is located inside the Clinton Lake State Park, restaurant goers have to stop at the park's office and pay the $6.50 park entrance fee. But don't let the admission fee be a deterrent, the Jerkwater experience is well worth it. "If you have
five people in the car,that's a little over a dollar a piece," Willey says. "That's a lot cheaper than a movie,and you get to enjoy the lake while you're at it." The marina has three pontoon boats available for rental.All you need is a valid driver's license, and you'll be on your way to cruising the lake.
— Lauren Bristow can be reached at Ibristow@kansan.com.
TOP: What floats your boat? A college of corks and fishing buoy lines the walls of the Jerkwater Grille.
LEFT: The Jerkwater Grille, a floating restaurant on Clinton Lake, opens for business Memorial Day.
5.06.04 Jayplay
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