Page 14
University Daily Kansan Monday, March 19. 1962
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Couture Designers Dictate Women's Clothing Styles
As sure as early spring brings flower buds, late winter blossoms with new spring fashions. Showings of couture collections begin in late January and women over the world hold their breath. A radical change from last year's style may mean an entire new wardrobe.
The originals from designers would cost the wearer from $400 to $1,200 per costume depending on the style, fabric and decoration. But the silhouette and the details of the new collections are copied and adapted on a large scale and made available to chic women the world over.
THERE WAS NO fashion revolution in Paris this spring.
Paris couture collections echoed the trends set by American designers. But there is a definite trend to a more closely fitted silhouette and feminine trimmings. Clothes are shaped to the body with waists belted and skirts full. Airy fabrics, ruffles and bows soften evening fashions.
Except for Dior, Paris designers featured a slim waist often outlined by a wide, tight belt.
BELTS ON THE HIPS, the boxy, square skirts and the camouflaged waist highlight the March Bohan collection, which is his first independent one for the House of Christian Dior.
Yves Saint-Laurent, famed for his smashing "trapeze" success, showed his first independent collection since leaving the House of Dior.
His silhouette is predominantly soft and fluid. He showed square-shouldered suit jackets that stop at the hipbone. Skirts are short and move freely, with an apron effect in the front.
BLOUSES ARE an integral part of his costume. Soft and bias shaped, they fall in a fluid line to the hips or are lightly sashed at the waist. Some showed a few inches below the jacket.
Saint-Laurent went all out for the tunic, one of the most predominant themes in his collection. Some are soft and bloued at the waist, others cut along stricter lines.
CEIL CHAPMAN in New York emphasized the Egyptian look in her spring collection, "Daughters of the Nile." Her clothes take on a look of ancient fashion when women of Egypt wore robes of transparent linen or nothing at all.
Her gowns are strapless, gathered high under the bosom and draped in body-molding line. Sometimes the bare shoulders were sheltered by suede tops, and the daring combination of suede and chiffon won applause.
THE SOFT WAVE of fashion that was felt in New York and Paris was the top story in London, too. England and tailoring have always gone hand in hand and this season the couture continued the tradition, but
with softer, less classic designs. Clothers fitted closer to the body and there was an abundance of floating chiffons, pretty flower prints, soft crepes and silks, and even a ruffle or two.
MICHAEL, one of England's most avant-garde designers, created two new skirts for his spring collection. One has two creased trouser pleats in front and back, similar to a skirt seen at Dior, but flatter and less bulky.
The other skirt sits low on the waist, actually resting on the hipbones. It has a narrow fabric or leather string belt and is worn with a tuck-in sweater or blouse and an open, very tailored jacket.
JOHN CAVANAGH, another London star, showed a shaped and fitted silhouette, but it was not nailed to the body.
His shaping went from the bosom to a natural waist on coats and suit jackets which emphasized the midriff. Skirts flared or had fullness from the waist.
Hardy Amies summed up his collection with short skirts and swinging skirts, too. He has shaped jackets and very young, bolero-length ones. Many of his dresses have a bias inset at the waist, giving a pronounced, waisted look but never pinched.
RONALD PATERSON'S suits have fluttering skirts—pleated, flared or cut on the bias. Jackets are fitted or shaped gently to the body. A printed silk suit blouse, a constant theme, often has a wide, matching belt. Wide belts also cinch day and evening dresses.
In general, not a severe line is to be found in clothes for spring. All are soft and curved to make the most of the female form.
BLOOMING LIKE SPRING tulips are fashions that reach their ultimate enchantment in gossamer dresses with ruffles, bows and ribbons of lace.
Attention centers on the waist. Whether marked at the natural line or lifted to accent the bosom, it is wrapped, belted or firmly cinched for emphasis. The accented waist looks especially new in suits with abbreviated jackets.
SKIRTS ARE ANIMATED. Extreme versions are gathered full or, newer still, gored to near circles.
For coats and suits, nubby textures vie with smooth-faced wools. Late-day fabrics especially are frothy, fragile, light as air. Sometimes they are pebbled or puffed.
Daytime colors lean to mellow neutrals with a smattering of navy, a flash here and there of brilliant color. For afternoon and after, prints predominate in bold black and white and tones of green from spring grass to dark forest.
Fraternities Announce Spring Officers
Sigma Alpha Epsilon
Sigma Alpha Epsilon recently elected the following officers for the spring semester: president, Fred Perry, Junction City junior; vice president, Sam Lux, Topeka senior; secretary, Bob Johntz, Wichita junior; treasurer, Tom Bornholt, Topeka sophomore; chronicler, Mike Hites, Prairie Village sophomore; warden, Jeff Heitzeberg, Mission sophomore; correspondent, Dave Stinson, Lawrence sophomore; social chairman, Mike Mason, Omaha, Neb., senior; rush chairman, John Williams, Osage City junior; house manager, Jim Williamson, Hutchinson junior.
***
Sigma Gamma Tau
Officers for the spring semester of Sigma Gamma Tau, national aeronautical engineering society, are Harold Rogler, Wichita senior, president; Richard Peil, Atkison senior, vice president; Dallas Wicke, Atwood senior, secretary-treasurer; and Frank Breen, Cincinnati, Ohio, junior, pledge trainer.
Alpha Kappa Lambda
Dick Byler, Wellington freshman, has been elected president of the pledge class of Alpha KappaLambda fraternity for the spring semester. Others officers for the spring semester are vice president and social
chairman, Greg Gardner, Wichita freshman; secretary-treasurer, Webb Cummings, Kansas City, Mo., freshman; Interfraternity Fledge Council representatives, Dick Trump, Overland Park sophomore, and Bob Crosier, Lawrence freshman; sergeant at arms, John Brown, Western Springs, Ill., freshman.
The newly elected officers of Lambda Chi Alpha are: president, Fred Lamar, Alma junior; vice president, Larry Bailey, Atchison junior; secretary, Philip Brooks, Independence, Mo., senior; treasurer, Gayle Anderson, Garnett senior; social chairman, Jay Deane, Kansas City junior; ritualist, Jerry Freund, Dodge City junior; and pledge trainer, Bob Borton, Cleveland, Ohio, sophomore.
Lambda Chi Alpha
***
The officers of the Lambda Chi pledge class are: president, Bob Walsh, Shawnee Mission sophomore; vice president, Jay Luff, Ottawa freshman; secretary-treasurer, Dave Spaw, Shawnee Mission freshman; rush chairman, John Dooley, Taecoma, Wash., sophomore.
Women seldom acknowledge that they have fallen in love until the man has revealed his delusion and so cut off his retreat.
Three Sororities Announce New Officers
Delta Delta Delta
Pamela Stone, Wichita freshman,
of the Delta, Delta, delpier cliché.
elected pi
Delta Delta Delta pledge class.
Other officers are Susie Gerlash,
Tarkio, Mo., secretary; Marilyn Huff,
Wichita, social chairman;
Madalyn Van Landingham, Excelsior Springs, Mo., scholarship chairman;
Gail Gibson, Herington, song leader; Winnie Frazee, Great Bend, treasurer; and Betsy Eaton, Wichita, chaplin.
Rouge, La., freshman, standards chairman; and Carol Childers, Waimo freshman, song leader.
Alpha Delta Pi
Pledge class officers of Alpha Delta Pi are Kay Weber, Wichita freshman, president; Janet Bowman, Larned freshman, secretary-treasurer; Oralee Broussard, Baton
Kappa Kappa Gamma
Kappa Kappa Gamma
Kappa Kappa Gamma announces the installation, following officers: president, Gretchen Lee, Hays junior; vice president, Linda
Stark, Salina junior; house chairman, Joy Sharp, Topeka junior; treasurer, Judy Strafer; Prairie Village sophomore; scholarship chairman, Nancy Borel, Falls Church, Va., junior; corresponding secretary, Nancy Gaines, Joplin, Mo., junior; recording secretary, Barbara Schmidt, Kansas City junior.
Tri Delts Announce Two Pinnings
Nancy Noyes of Leawood announces her pinning to Dave Butts of Arlington Heights, Ill. Miss Noyes is a junior in art education and a member of Delta Delta Delta sorority. Butts is a senior in the School of Business and a member of Kappa Sigma.
Lynn Haupt of Wichita announces her pinning to Jeff Wall of Kansas State University. Miss Haupt is a senior in elementary education and a member of Delta Delta Delta sorority. Wall is a senior in the School of Milling at Kansas State and a member of Sigma Alpha Epsilon.
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