KU men set own fashion trend; neat-casua
By RICHARD MURPHY
Kansan Staff Writer
Photo by Mike Rieke Dave Nutt, Baldwin junior The "country club" look
and peculiar "neat-confortable" look of the KU male.
One student called it "lumberjack sophisticate." Another referred to it as "chrome-plated bucolic." These are some of the answers you get when questioning go-to-class attire for the KU male.
Who wants to wear a coat and tie to class? For that matter who wants to wear a tie to class? Any volunteers for a collared shirt? There is an unsuccessful trend attempting to creep into our go-to-class fashions. It is termed "neo-ugly."
And for dress, there is definitely a non-conforming trend.
Upon an objective observation, one can easily see that KU male clothing does not measure up with the image of Harvard, Dartmouth, or Princeton, but one should try to notice the variety, uniqueness,
Edwardian look
If you haven't walked into a clothing store in several months, the taste in coats might be "Edwardian" or "Napoleon." Today's Edwardian refers to a double-breasted six or eight-button garment with high lapel line, fitted waist, and slightly longer jacket.
This fashion rage has not really taken hold yet, but it is certainly something to look into for the near future. Such styling is now seen in suits, sport coats, outcoats and even in formal wear.
Currently the regular three-button, natural shoulder coat is slightly dominating the
dress-up scene, but it is fitted and tailored so that the trend is toward more exposure of the shirt and tie, along with a tighter, narrower look.
Edwardian styling is a significant example of the revolutionary thinking in men's wear today. Styles change rapidly today and involve more than subtle variations on a former theme. A few—like the Nehru—come and go before some people ever realize it.
New styles sought
Woman film critic doesn't feel competitive to man; mind same
It is the strong conviction of most clothing experts that men are seeking out new and different styles and are naturally gravitating to those stores and manufacturers who fulfill their needs.
By LINDA BROWNING Kansan Staff Writer
Professionalism is the key to the personality of film critic, Miss Pauline Kael.
Miss Kael is a woman who thinks a mind is a mind regardless of the sex the body represents.
Dressing like a lady is as far from her concern as straightening her hair or sitting with her legs crossed. Perhaps she is right when she says she does not belong on the "lady's page."
A chain smoker, she allows only movies and cigarette smoke into her bloodstream—in that order. Movies are not a peripheral affair for her but the most interesting fact of her life.
Karate chop
Just because she is one of the few females in the rugged profession of critiquing films, she doesn't consider her work competitive with men. "A mind is a mind whether it's clothed in an orange plumed luncheon hat or a man's felt hat. When I started writing reviews back at Berkeley College they were anonymous at first, but the minute I started signing them, they were labeled 'bitchy.'"
A native of California, Miss Kael has been in New York four years. She ventured there on a reviewing job for McCall's. She did not stay long because of her "unladylike" way of dismissing certain movies with a 'karate chop of criticism. "I thought I'd last six months," she said, "I lasted five."
She moved on to the more cooperative New Republic, then switched to the New Yorker in the winter of 1967, where she feels comfortable and can be honest in her criticism. "This is because the New Yorker has a circulation of one-half million, small, yet powerful enough to turn down ads with strings attached," she said.
Her reviews, appear to not pass judgment aloofly, yet she admits she works in haste. She catches most of the six or seven movies she sees per week at theatres—not screening rooms—to get the real audience reaction. She writes long into the night many Thursday evenings to get her articles in by Friday. Despite the hectic pace, she said she enjoys writing for a weekly magazine.
10 KANSAN Mar. 18 1969
Letters
She gets a lot of letters from mothers who condemn her point of view that sex is all right on the screen. "It's the mothers who are petrified of sex—they
are naive about what turns girls on," said Miss Kael. She does object to the ridiculous and purposeless use of violence, however. "People want to see a movie, not take a cold shower," she said.
Naked bottom
Her most caustic criticism comes with her "hang up" of how the woman's image is "turned back to Williams' Naura in the Doll's House"-where the woman is thought of as nothing but a "naked bottom."
At times she exhibits that edge of insecurity of the almost emancipated woman. She considers women to be America's largest minority and urges women—good, and serious about their intellectual endeavors—to become writers, directors and producers. Another view is needed on the movie scene other than the Playboy condescending view of women, she says.
She abandoned the mass audience long ago and writes to help create the "art house audience." She finds this kind of audience a bigger challenge because "they have their antenna up, and you can talk them into liking boring art, because life is boring. These people are the ones who read criticism, so I have a reason for being personal—not only to lay the cards on the table, but also to give my readers something to react to."
Up to the young
She bitterly condemns critics who write "with the damnable policy of pleasing the middle class taste." She said she wishes students would write more reviews, maybe for Film Quarterly. "It is up to you young alerted people to sort out some of this stuff while it is going on," she told a critical writing class.
Miss Kael never sees a movie more than once before she writes her reviews and she doesn't regret her rating "Weekend" and "Shame" as the best movies of the year. She sees 400 student films that she judges for grants and foundations and never thinks of seeing them twice to make a decision. "If a movie doesn't grab you the first time, if you have to analyze the hell out of it to come up with an interpretation, then it must be fundamentally incoherent—and you should say so," she says.
Since her two books "I Lost It at the Movies" and "Kiss Kiss Bang Bang" have come out in paperback form, Pauline Kael has been "found" as one of the country's top movie critics. The 49-year-old movie critic plays no favorites, snapping angrily at any epic that needs to be panned. This is the Kael cult.
Photo by Mike Rieke Don Farrington, Oswege junior The "Edwardian" look
Streaking helps to highlight hair
NEW YORK (UPI) - Do you know the difference between streaking, tipping and frosting? If you do, you are better informed than most women who admire the highlights effects on friends.
Light accents provide stylish effects on almost any color hair. And the newest fashion haircoloring is streaking.
- Streaking is the lightening of $ \frac{1}{2} $ and 2 inch areas of hair. Rarely are more than six light streaks put against dark in contrast in a hair fashion. The streaks are confined to the top layer or the hair on the crown.
- Clairol, maker of a "wildstreak kit," defines the terms as follows:
- Frosting is the fine threading of wisps of hair that are lightened throughout. It's a blonde effect that lasts for several months.
- Tipping is the abundant threading of strands of hair around the front portion of the head surrounding the face. Thus, lightened strands blend with one's own natural color at the back.
The current Edwardian era in men's wear reflects the style taste of Edward VII. His reign was known for its emphasis on the social life which was a welcome change to England after the austerity of Edward's mother, Queen Victoria.
Each of the three haircoloring effects requires infrequent re-doing. Streaking needs to be refreshed only twice a year. Frosting and tipping need to be revitalized only two or three times a year.
Not all designers acknowledge Edward's influence on current style, however. Some point out that style never looks back and today's fashions represent the newest style form.
Details important
In focusing on detail, wide ties are still going strong. So are vests. On double-breasted coats, you will usually find a higher cut vent in the back, about 14 inches, than last year.
Getting away from dinner-date and concert fashion let's try to pinpoint casualness. Levis, loafers, no socks, athletic shirt—the provocative look? Hardly.
The tough and rugged look may still be popular, but there are still ways to be a non-conformist. Good-looking knit shirts with a pair of wild slacks can give a guy that moderately neat, golfer, country club look and still he will not appear to be pseudo-socialite.
Knit shirts are supposed to be wild this spring. Thick knits, thin knits, stripes and solids, great variety. By wild slacks-avant garde-mostly plaids and weird colors. How casual can you get?
Back east
In New York the fashion rage is bell bottom trousers up to 24 inches at the bottom. The fad has even rubbed off onto the more sedate clothing lines which are showing some flare.
Most of the men who are wearing them are in their teens and early 20s. The trouser is in Levi style and most sizes run
about 22 inches at the bottom. There is also a big call for semi-transparent shirts for both dress and sport's wear out East
Also new are widespread "Fish" collars, inspired by Michael Fish of London whose designs have been copied by almost everyone. This collar is extremely widespread, has extremely wide points and the back of the collar is high.
One sincerely doubts whether you will find semi-transparent shirts, bell bottoms, and "Fish" collars on the KU male this spring. Look for a few liberals experimenting and the traditional "clean-cut" conservative. Also look for the lumberjacks, cowboys, surfers-clothes make the man.
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