Summer Session Kansan Page 7 Paris Designer Mourns Demise of High Fashion By Aline Mosby United Press International PARIS — (UPI) — Madeleine Vionnet, credited with being the first designer to put woman in modern dress, doesn't think much of the current crop of Paris designers. "High fashion today is dead," said the 88-year-old designer who as early as 1908 was revolutionizing feminine fashion. MME. VIONNET, who closed her salon in 1940, still lives in Paris. She can look to the past with pride as the coutourier who invented the bias cut that freed women from corsets and launched the modern era of clothes. But the designer reflected in an interview that "high fashion is a joke!" The white-haired designer said. "There are no more real designers. Balenciaga, Givenchy, they make beautiful dresses for personal clients but mainly they make models for buysers. "IT COSTS SO much now to Fund 'Strings' Provide KU Slight Problem How do you spend $91,640 with no strings attached? Well, almost no strings. This is a problem KU faces. It has just received an institutional grant in that amount from the National Science Foundation. The main "string" on the grant that its use must be limited to science areas as defined by the foundation. William J. Argersinger Jr., associate dean of faculties for research, said these areas are the engineering physical and biological sciences; history and philosophy of science; and parts of anthropology, sociology economics and political science. QUANTITATIVE research in political science was added to NSF support only recently, he said. Size of the 1964 grant is almost double that of last year. It was based on NSF research support at KU of about $1.3 million over a year's period. Institutional grants to KU have increased consistently in past years. In 1962, $27,822 was received, and the grant in 1963 was $52,915. Argersinger said the University administrative committee will determine exact use of the grant. The increases represent both an enlargement in NSF-supported research at KU and in the federal government's allocation of a greater proportion of science funds with provision for flexible expenditure. CONCEIVABLY, part of the money will go for special research equipment. This could include partial support of the Computation Center, which this year is acquiring a new 7040-1401 IBM computer. Other uses may be for short-term summer appointments for science faculty; supplementary aid for Watkins summer faculty fellowships; science accessions and staff expenditures in the KU libraries, and faculty travel in science-related work. Argersinger said a further possibility is to expend part of the grant on undergraduate tuition scholarships to science majors. About $8,000 of last year's grant was used in this manner for the first time, he said. Professor, Student Co-Write Report Christopher P. Sword, associate professor of microbiology, and Alan S. Armstrong Sr., a graduate student from Neenah, Wis., are the authors of an article published in a national professional quarterly. Their research report, "Cellular Resistance in Listeriosis," appears in the June 1964 issue of Journal of Infectious Diseases. Armstrong conducted the research as part of his program leading to the master's degree. The over-all research project directed by Sword is receiving support from the U.S. Public Health Service. make high fashion. You need rich clientele. But there is not much money around now to buy such dresses. The French clientele is not enough; the houses must make models for American buyers. "I did not make collections for the Americans, who take back one idea but don't buy more. I made a dress when I felt like it. Now designers have to show collections, 150 models each time, twice a year." STILL HANDSOME and alert, Mme. Vionnet is recognized by the Paris fashion world as the lady who really started it all, even before the great Gabrielle Chanel burst onto the scene. As the late Christian Dior said, "No one ever has carried the art of dressmaking farther than Vionnet." Madeleine Vionnet was an apprentice in a Paris salon at the age of 11 and later designed in the house of Kate Reilly on Dover Street in London for five years. She returned to Paris to work in the Callot salon. Then she moved to the house of Doucet and began to make "what I wanted to make." IN THOSE DAYS women wore boned corsets, skirts to the floor, cinched in waistlines and long hair. Vionnet started a revolution by cutting dresses on the bias. They fell from the shoulders in an almost Grecian style. The free, easy line fitted in with the mood of women campaigning for equal political and moral rights with men. "People were astonished but young women loved the dresses," she recalled. VIONNET OPENED her own sailor in 1912, first on the rue de Rivoli. She closed during World War I but later reopened and by 1923 she had a big salon on the avenue Montaigne with 1200 employees — and the world's rich women as her clientele. Later Jacques Griffe, now a big Paris couturier, was her tailor. Many of her dresses look like the grandmother of today's sack dress. She invented the halter neckline and the cowl neckline and claims to have been the first to lower the waistline in the 1920's. HER CREATIONS were timeless and many can be worn today. Recently a New York society matron donned a black suit and told admiring friends that Vionnet made it 30 years ago. In her Paris town house in a fashionable district, Mme. Vionnet, wearing one of her own floor-length white wool sheaths, led this visitor up three flights to her private sitting room filled with mementos. Like the rest of her mansion it is decorated in the style of the 1930's—silvered fireplace edged with mirrors, red lacquered Chinese furniture, a fur rug thrown over a sofa. In drawers and on shelves are photographs of her late husband, a White Russian army general, and various celebrities wearing Vionnet designs. "I did not follow 'la mode,'" said Mme. Vionnet. "I created harmony. Look! You could wear these dresses today." ___ There's more than one way to learn about American government, as an Ethiopian student at KU soon will find out. Ethiopian Attends Political Meeting Shibru Siefu, a graduate student in political science from Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, will halt work temporarily on his master's thesis to attend the Republican National Convention July 12-18. A grant from the U.S. State Department, through the Institute of International Education, is making the San Francisco trip possible. Seifu, who is emphasizing international relations in his master's program, was selected for membership this spring in Pi Sigma Alpha, national honorary political science fraternity. boss. Such grants are given to students from abroad to acquaint them first-hand with some of the political processes in the United States. After the convention, he expects to return to KU to complete work on his master's thesis. "Pan-Africanism from 1958 to the African Charter." His adviser is Clifford Ketzel, associate professor of political science. Reprint Plan Brings Aid To Collectors Dr. Melville Bell Grosvenor, society president and editor, said early editions beginning with volume I, number 1, of October, 1888, would be made available at modest cost. WASHINGTON — (UPI)— Collectors who haunt used book and magazine stores in search of rare National Geographic issues got a helping hand recently when the society announced it will reprint some early issues. DETAILS OF reproductions will be in the October National Geographic issue, the approximate date the reprints will be generally available. "The new program will enable libraries, schools and collectormembers of the Society to fill out their sets from the very first issue," Grosvenor said. The decision was made, he added, in response to thousands of requests from institutions and individuals for copies of National Geographic long out of print. GOING PRICE on the used market for issues of general interest range from a nickel to 25 cents, with some issues of unusual interest selling for much more. The newstand price of current issues is 75 cents. From 205 members in 1888, the Society has grown to four million at present. The value of its publication has increased proportionately, with some complete sets of original issues selling for $18,000. COLLECTORS COME from all social levels and occupations, according to the Society, and represent widely varied interests. Requests have been received from a Californian who sought a 1906 issue on the San Francisco earthquake; an Iowan who lost a favorite 1920 issue featuring an article on mushrooms; a Kentueky minister searching for an article on Bible lands that appeared 30 years ago, and many others. A REPORT from an El Paso, Texas, collector revealed he had bound his collection in such rare materials as mink, original paintings, and Pancho Villa's saddle blanket. The new reprints will not diminish the value of the originals, the society said, since they will be clearly marked as reprints. To insure clear distinction from the originals, they will be off-set printed on present-day paper. Catholic Hams Keep in Touch By Short Wave Church fathers as far apart as 500 miles gossip and discuss common church problems through use of the "clergy network," a chain of 16 "ham" priests. SANTA FE, N.M. — (UPI)—Catholic priests in New Mexico's farflung parishes take a coffee break each morning . . . by shortwave radio. THE CLERICAL radio hams got their start when Father Elmer Neimeyer, formerly in Albuquerque, talked another priest into building a radio set. The two priests began an early morning get-together by radio, and soon other priests throughout the state were interested. The "network" now includes 16 members who speak to each other daily in a roundtable discussion. The two farthest points are at Tobatch on the Navajo Apache Indian Reservation in the northwest corner of the state and at Roswell in the southeast corner. corner. Midway in the network is Father James Rabbit at Santa Fe. A priest of Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, Father Rabbit also is the U.S. Military Affiliate Radio Service officer for New Mexico. He built a teletype machine with surplus materials and, at other times, spearheads the clergy network. The network is used primarily to pass on the much-needed information from parish to parish that is so hard to come by in New Mexico's remote areas. New methods of teaching and other data are the coffee break meat of the clergy network. KANSAS CITY, Mo. - (UPI) - The personal papers, memorabilia and the famed rocking chair of the late President John F. Kennedy went on display in Municipal Auditorium yesterday. The three-day exhibit, sponsored by the John F. Kennedy Library, included 70 photographs, a hand-written draft of Kennedy's famed inaugural address and other historic documents. Kennedy Mementos Shown in Kansas City Visitors saw Kennedy's notes on CLASSIFIED ADS FOR RENT the Cuban missile crisis, the test ban treaty discussions, civil rights and many speeches. Close to campus, very nice air-conditioned apartment--Santee Apartments VI 3-2116 or inquire at office—1123 Indiana. tf Two bedroom duplex~Stove and refrig- ture~bedroom~except accept elpt- trity furniture~V1 3-2281 TYPING Extra nice bachelor apartment. Cool and comfortable. Private bath and parking. Very close to KU. Also 2-bedroom furnished air-conditioned room. Close to KU. Private parking -automatic washer. For appointment VI 3-8534. tt Experienced typist. Former secretary will type theses, term papers, reports, etc. Accurate work. Reasonable rates. Electric typewriter, Duplicating machine. Mrs. McEldowney. 2521 Ala. Ph. VI 3-3568. tf Accurate expert typist would like typing in her home. Term papers and theses. Prompt service. Call VI 3-2651. tf Accurate expert typist would in her service. Call VI 3-2681. Promote if needed. Accurate and experienced typist—Wants typing of any kind—Very reasonable rates—Contact Mrs Jacque Kaufman (Mrs. Robt). VI M-3-7493 at 5:00 p.m. tf Also included were notes scribbed on dinner menus, envelopes and other scraps of paper. One invitation list drawn up when he was serving in the Senate, shows his handwritten addition of the name "Jackie Bouvier" to the guest list. Patronize Kansan Advertisers BUSINESS DIRECTORY Patronize Kansan Advertisert NEW YORK CLEANERS REPAIRS — LEATHER REFINISHING ALTERATIONS — RE-WEAVING Delivery Service 926 Mass. VI 3-0501 RISK'S Shirt Finishing Laundry Wash & Fluff Dry 513 Vt. VI 3-4141 tapes: recorded or duplicated records: cut or pressed REAL PET Shopping Center Under One Roof Free Parking GRANT'S DRIVE-IN Pet Center Sure—Everything in the Pet Field 1218 Cran. VI 3-2921 1619 W. 19th St. VI 2-3780 MISCELLANEOUS LOST Two Spiral notebooks and reading cards. Please turn in to room 116 Bailey Hall for reward. 7-14 FOR SALE GERMAN MAJOR will tutor students of German I. $1.50 an hour. Call VI 3-8342 after 1 p.m. for appointment. 7-14 New 35mm Nikon F Camera. 14f lens Via 3-32mm filter米 included. $300.00. 7-7 1961 Coronado Red Corvette Roadster, 3-speed floor shift, positive traction, like new, 283 engine. Good paint. $2500. See afternoons at 2417 Ohio. 7-10 Must sell (cheap) Motorcycle 1964 Yamaha 250 cc. YDS-1 2 months old. For further information call VI 2-0006. 7-10 GB Western Civilization Notes. Extremely comprehensive covering on the major aspects of ancient Greek Reference Publications, Box 131, Florham Park, New Jersey. Allow one week for delivery. 1961 Coronado Red Corvette Roadster. 3-speed floor shift. Positive traction. Like new 283 engine. Good paint. $2500, see afternoons. 2417 Ohio. 7-6 Recording Service and Party Music Hot Rodders! 1940 Ford Cpe. Stock. Body in stock at! 1 V-2-9652 or see at Rhode Island. 411 W. 14th VI 3-1571 AL LAUTER Grease Jobs . . $1.00 Brake Adj. . . . 98c STUDENTS Automotive Service Motor Tune-Ups, Wheel Balancing 7 a.m.-11 p.m. PAGE CREIGHTON FINA SERVICE 1819 W. 23rd Balfour Badges, Rings, Novelties Sweatshirts, Mugs, Paddles Cups, Trophies, Medals Fraternity Jewelry CAMPUS BEAUTY SHOP ... right off campus 1144 Indiana (12th & Oread) VI3-3034 Closed on Monday JIM'S CAFE 838 Mass. OPEN 24 hrs. a day BREAKFAST OUR SPECIALTY