> NOTICE BRA FITTING 101 by Liz Nortowicz Model: Lindsey Quittmeir, Parkville, Mo.art education graduate student. With outstretched arms, Leslie Dillon, Independence, Mo. sophomore, anxiously awaits to see how she measures up. And what the right (or wrong) bra will do for you "34 B," says Marilyn Ousdahl, intimate apparel head at Weavers, 901 Massachusetts St. "That's what I figured," Dillon sighs as her roommate steps up for her bra fitting. KIT LEFFLER "34 C," Ousdahl announces. "I wasn't expecting that," says a pleasantly surprised Abby Christensen, Independence sophomore. "I wear mainly B cups." Being off a cup size is common, says Ousdahl, who boasts 22 years of bra fitting experience. In fact, it is so common that 85 percent of women nationwide are sporting the wrong size bra, says fitting specialist Blessing Okere. Okere works at Intimacy, a Chicago-based lingerie store dedicated to bra fitting. Experts say that lack of professional help is to blame for most ill-fitting bras, but amateurs can now take matters into their own hands. With a crash course in sizing, anyone can learn the laws of the bra and relish in the right bra's benefits. Finding the right fit Besides perking up her health, the right bra can do wonders for a woman's appearance and state of mind. To find the right bra, you must have the right measurements. Wrong measurements are the reason for most cleavage crises. Some women just aren't comfortable getting measured, Okere says. This leaves women to ballpark their size, almost guaranteeing a mistake. Fixing the problem Others are comfortable, but go to untrained fitters. Knowing how to measure and knowing how to fit are not the same, says Okere, who believes fitting is holistic. Okere recommends researching a store before going in for a fitting. It is also important to be fitted frequently. Getting fitted is like a check-up, Okere says; it should be yearly. Like the doctor, women should feel free to go as needed. Any significant weight fluctuation is cause to be refitted, Okere says. Women need not run to the store every time their scale sways; they can do their own measurements in a pinch. A simplistic way to double-check dimensions is to measure underneath the bust, Ousdahl says. Wearing either an unlined or lightly lined bra, take a soft tape measurer and secure it under the band of the bra. To get the band size, add 5 inches to this number. To verify cup size, wrap the tape around the fullest point of the bust. Every inch the cup differs from the band is a cup size. The biggest and most common problem is overflowing cups, Ousdahl says. While offering the security of snugness to women, brimming cups are a sure sign that the bra is too small. A good bra should lift and separate. Okere says, not squish. Shoulder straps digging into the shoulders are also at the top of the bra blur list, and a safe bet that a bra is two cup sizes too small. Three fingers should fit easily under the straps, Okere says. As for adjusting the straps, Okere says to aim for the middle. If the straps are adjusted all the way, it means the bra band is too big. Rising bands also signal the need for a larger bra. The band should rest firmly underneath the shoulder blades, Okere says. A level band pulls the breasts into the body's frame and places them in the desired position of the middle arm. Puckering is a dead giveaway for a bra that is too large. Excess fabric on the sides or at the cups means its time to go down a size, usually In cup, Okere says. Falling straps also suggests the bra band is too big. Although loose is more comfortable it's not neccesarily better, Okere says. Over time, bras lose their elasticity so it's important to buy bras that fit firmly on the last hook. As wear and care take their tolls on the garments, women can advance to a tighter hook. Bountiful benefits Women can also boost their confidence with a bra over time. Besides perking up her health, the right bra can do wonders for a woman's appearance and state of mind. "If you ever want to look like you have lost 10 pounds fast, get the right-sized bra." Okee says. The right bra creates the illusion of a slimmer, trimmer body by pulling the breasts into its frame. Okere says. It also enhances an outfit. Victoria's Secret fashion consultant, Machene, advises women to wear plunges or push ups with V-necks, demis with t-shirts and full coverage for sweaters. Along with looking better, a good bra will make women feel better, Brett Grady, Olathe sophomore says. Grady says the power of the bra lies within how it affects the woman wearing it. "Even if no one sees it, she's still going to have that confidence with a good bra." Grady says. Christensen's smile attests to the importance of a good bra, as she thumbs through a sea of C's, beaming with joy. THE "BRO" IS REAL The "Bro," or the "Manssiere," depending on which side of the Seinfeld debate you're on, isn't just one of Kramer's wacky inventions. It's a real medical garment. "Compression vests" are designed specifically for men suffering from an excessive amounts of breast tissue, or gynecomastia. The vests cover the entire upper torso and reduce the appearance of breasts, similar to the effect of a woman's minimizing bra. Gynecomastia usually appears during puberty and is linked to genetics, obesity, drug use and certain diseases. Merle Yost, licensed psychotherapist and founder of www.gynecomastia.org, writes on the site that most adolescent boys go through a phase of gynecomastia but only 10 percent will develop the condition. Compression vests can be bought from specialty stores like Design Veronique through www.designveronique.com. 02. 16.2006 JAYPLAY < 17 ---