After a long day of work at a Barny's restaurant in Pasadena, Calif., Angel Alvarez approached his doorstep and was greeted by a knife. His attacker ordered him to hand over his wallet and keys. Alvarez complied and the robber knocked him unconscious.
Two months later Alvarez went on a three-week vacation to DeSoto, Kan. to visit four uncles and find a new and safer life. Within two weeks he found a job for himself and his wife at a McDonald's, and the couple moved to Lawrence. Alvarez had eight years of cooking experience, and he soon found his way into the kitchens of Lawrence restaurants such as the Hereford House.
The pace of Lawrence life suited Alvarez, who is from a small farm in the Mexican state of Jalisco. But something was missing from the city; authentic Mexican cuisine. Alvarez and his wife Laura Romero would make weekend trips to Kansas City in order to find a taste of home.
Four months ago, a friend who worked at the Mexican restaurant Calientes, located inside a Phillips 66 gas station, told Alvarez that the place was going out of business. Alvarez decided to take a risk and start his own restaurant. "I opened because I had the chance. I didn't open because I have the money," Alvarez says.
At Tortas Jalisco, 3300 W.6th St., Alvarez offers Mexican dishes made from scratch. The gas station setting often means the restaurant gets overlooked, but it's slowly gaining a reputation as the most authentic Mexican restaurant in Lawrence.
Tortas are Mexican style sandwiches and a specialty at Tortas Jalisco. One of the restaurant's most popular sandwiches is the Torta Tinga. Priced around $5, this homemade gem features chicken marinated in chipolte sauce with beans, lettuce and tomato. The chipolte sauce is prepared from scratch daily, as are all of Alvarez's sauces. Fresh, hot tortilla chips accompany each sandwich. The salsa is made from freshly boiled tomatoes, which creates a lighter shade of red, compared to canned salsa found at most U.S. restaurants. Combined with fresh peppers and other ingredients, Alvarez's salsa makes for a wonderfully smooth and spicy dip.
Tortas Jalisco also offers tacos, dinner platters, breakfast burritos and specialty dishes. Traditional beverages and desserts are available to complete the experience. Alvarez makes horchata — a tasty blend of rice, cinnamon and water, and jamaica — a mix made from the Jamaica flower, tea, water and sugar. You can also buy a 500-milliliter bottle of Coca-Cola labeled in Spanish. For dessert, try a Gansito-
brand snack cake, a favorite among Mexican children.
While the food is excellent, Tortas Jaliscos still faces the challenge of all new restaurants: finding enough customers to stay in business. The location has advantages and disadvantages. "A lot of people think because we are in a gas station, it's not good quality food," Alvarez says. On the plus side, Alvarez says every person who walks through the door is a potential customer.
he gains experience for advertising, so he gains experience in Mexico graduate students, heard about Tortas Jalisco and a Spanish professor. Cano says they searched for good Mexican restaurants since their arrival in January 2002, but found some only in Kansas City. Discovering Tortas Jalisco has thrilled the couple. "After months of not trying something that good, it tastes like heaven," Mojica says. "It's as good as it gets here."
Mojica says the gas station location doesn't bother him. In fact, he thinks it makes the restaurant more authentic because you can find similar restaurants any
Mojica says the gas station lo he thinks it makes the restaurant find similar restaurants anywhere in Mexico. Cano agrees that some of the best places are the small ones.
Tortas Jalisco certainly is small. It only seats 20 people but offers carryout and drive-thru. What it lacks in size it makes up for in taste and character. Alvarez's friendly and caring attitude makes you feel right at home and proves how passionate he is about his food. He often leaves the kitchen to chat with customers and give out free food. When he prepares specialty dishes, he calls his customers to let them know.
Gabriel DeLeon, co-owner of La Margarita, a Mexican restaurant in Irvine, Texas, says a personal touch is what makes a restaurant stand out. DeLeon's father started L
Margarita in 1988 but had to locate to Red Oak, Texas because of cost. The restaurant did not advertise but succeeded through word of mouth. In 1990 La Margarita relocated to Irvine. DeLeon says the key to staying in business is to start small and be friendly with customers. "When an owner comes up and shakes a customer's hand it means a lot," DeLeon says. "Just saying hi goes a long way."
If DeLeon's suggestions really are a recipe for success, Alvarez is certainly on the right track. His humble location, friendly demeanor and delicious cuisine add up to an excellent dinning experience — so spread the word.
— Melissa Frankel can be reached at mfrankel@kansan.com.
By Melissa Frankel, Jayplay writer
photos: Eric Braem
Above: Angel Alvarez, owner of Tortas Jalisco,s makes authentic Mexican food from scratch. His restaurant takes up a corner of the Phillips 66,1415 W.6th Street.
Left: A Torta Ahogado is a "wet" sandwich, with hot sauce in the filling and on the bun. It's made with carnitas, a type of spicy fried pork. The torta is served with corn coated in cheese, cayenne pepper and mayonnaise. A cool glass of horchata, a sweet rice drink, washes it all down.
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